Fa 28 weaving report

Mendoza | Pantaleon | Rana | Sebastian | Villarica

Process of passing threads or strands of material under and over each other to produce textiles

May be plain or decorated by dyes, embroidery, and applique

Photo from: http://www.ironwulf.net/wp/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/yakan_weaver_03.jpg

Abel Binangonmag-abi Mun’obol Habe Habol Hablon Havil Maghablon

Photo from http://www.cityofpines.com/easterschool06.jpg

Warpthreads = vertical From warp beam to the

breast or cloth beam Weft threads =

horizontal Attached to shuttle that

crosses horizontally Heddle rod

Raises/lowers odd and even warp threads

Makes space for shuttlePhoto from: http://www.kipas.nl/Textiles/JPG/Backstraploom1.JPG

Oldest and simplest type of loom

Still used in Southeast Asia

Photo from http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_pVwyz2RGX9s/TKUH4Qg770I/AAAAAAAAANw/z1EdOG3zCNs/s1600/ifugao+hand+loom.jpeg

Leather backstrap Woven matting or

wood attached to the breast by string or rope

Outstretched feet support warp beam

Breast beam on lap and backstrap passing back

Weaver shifts weight forward and backward to control tension of warp yarns Photo from

http://www.nationalgeographicstock.com/comp/Y2/019/657283.jpg

Ifugao weaver

For manageability:Width of backstrap loom falls within arm span of weaverLength of cloth determined by length of warp threadsTo create large blankets and malong(tubular skirts), two or three separately woven pieces are stitched together

Other backstraplooms Warp beam secured to

tree or house post Warp beam slotted in

upright door frame Frame looms

Bigger and more complicated structure

No longer dependent on body tension

Frame Loom

Photo from http://www.goodwoodlooms.com/images/fl6cropped.jpg

Use of backstrap loom Organized interfacing of warp and weft

threads Leaning back against backstrap controls

tension on warp Passing of shuttle

Facilitates weft thread Pressing of new weft evenly

Using beater

Pre-colonial influences:Southeast Asian Malay animistIndian Hindu BuddhistsChineseArabic-Islamic strainsAncient cultural sources: Oceanic cultures of the Polynesian South Pacific

Since Philippine Iron Age (200 BC)

Malayans brought art of weaving on backstrap loom (400 BC)

Earliest example in the Philippines: Banton, Romblon 13thcentury piece

of ikat-dyed abaca cloth Photo from

http://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/nationalmuseumbeta/Collections/Archaeo/banton.png

Spanish Times:Before: pounded tree barks fibrous bark cloth (tapa)Early Spanish occupation: Filipinos in bark and woven fibersHand-weaving hampered by influx of cheap Chinese goodsLocals have strong preference for locally manufactured textiles

Photo from http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2486/3922321372_d309a6b999_z.jpg?zz=1

American Regime:Specialization per region

Ilocos = cotton and silk Panay = jusi

1903: 18.8 % of total population = weavers or spinnersSuccessful in local market, unable to compete internationally

Japanese Period:Many handlooms destroyed by war

After War:Government support for weaving

Work of women Shows their role in

their society as weavers

Indicates position as respected figure

Female weavers respected as male warriors are

Photo from http://images.fanpop.com/images/image_uploads/Traditional-weaving-the-philippines-488962_594_449.jpg

ABACA (ah bachah)Also called Manila hempFrom stalks of banana relativeValued for its natural lookAbsorbs dye unevenlyEx. T’bolit’nalak Photo from

http://ecokaila.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/abaca-fibers.jpg

BACBACSoftened strips of abaca barkFor basket making in the Philippines

BAMBOOForm strips of stalkAbsorbs dye unevenlyUsually completely hand-woven Photo by Maria Jesus Magdalena

Mendoza

BUNTALFrom large stems between the trunk and leaf of the CoryphapalmLong, tough fiber very attractive and durableOriginally used instead of bamboo in hand woven hats, bags and mats

Photo from http://image.ec21.com/image/gikatharel/oimg_GC05128984_CA05129001/Philippine_Buntal_Handbag.jpg

COTTONMajor crop in Cordilleras, Ilocos regions, and Visayas

JUTE (also called saluyot)Jute was used for rope and sackcloth Strong and durable, but dyes unevenly

Photo from http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Ci_cb2_xSlw/S0awqZ6HI6I/AAAAAAAAE0I/GUJkYPiYdaI/s400/Cotton.PNG

Photo from http://images03.olx.com.ph/ui/20/56/02/1334773987_209655402_1-Pictures-of--Jute-Sack-for-sale.jpg

NITO FOREST VINE Thin-stemmed vineOuter skin usually woven without curing or dryingNatural colors vary from green to light brown to black

Photo from http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wmuaQRfIzzA/TiNMdum1f2I/AAAAAAAAAus/2vFma803Xls/s1600/Nito+cup.jpg

PANDAN (also known as sabutan or karagumoy)Grows wild on the seacoastPandan shrub also called “screw pine”

Pineapple-like leaves in a corkscrew patternDries unevenly used in irregular weaves

Uneven dyeing color variations

PINA“Queen of Local Fabrics”Not indigenous to PhilippinesSoft, fine, flexible, strong, white, lustrousMade into embroidered handkerchiefs and altar cloth

Photo from http://www.ecouterre.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/layered-pina-cloth.jpg

Iloilo, Panay = used to be center of pina weaving Before: 60,000 looms

in Iloilo Merging of technology

of Spanish experience in embroidery + European taste + native expertise in weaving

Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/quingobillos/4127635585/

RATTANEasily bent and holds shape when dryUsed for baskets and furniture

RAMIEShrub which yields a tough, white, and lustrous fiber from its stemsWoven commercially in table linen primarily in central Philippines Photo from

http://www.thekerrgallery.com/files/gimgs/201_ifguao-rattan-backpack-2.jpg

Decorative dyeing techniques Preconceived design bound fibers dye

weave Weave wax/embroidery dye Both are resist-dyeing techniques

mengikat (Indonesian) meaning “to bind or knot”

Decorative dyeing technique

Pattern of fabric is determined before weaving begins

Photo from http://www.kipas.nl/Textiles/JPG/IfuIkatDetail.JPG

Known art of Ifugao Dominant method

by highland groups of Eastern Mindanao (Tboli, Bagobo, Tagakaolo, Mandaya, Bilaan, Ubo, Kalagan)

Bundles of thread knotted at carefully determined points, bound areas resist vegetable dye

Dyed threads arranged on loom

Colored areas form desired pattern

Attention to detail and ability to visualize

Can be warp, weft, or double ikat

Ex. t’nalak of T’boli Ex. dagmay of

Mandaya in Mindanao = colored abaca cloth with intricate figures and patterns

Photo from http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_q7NZPEVICy4/SqhV69cyEhI/AAAAAAAAACQ/tlY-eH8GUt8/s320/dagmay4.JPG

Embedding design on thread by dyeing tied threads (tied sections resist dye)

Yellow from wild ginger, red from narra shavings, black from mud with high-iron content

Addition of antique glass or ceramic beads (particularly among the Bagobo)

Photo from http://images.peabody.yale.edu/emu/235/676/235676.jpg

Dye-resistant technique

Embroidery dyeing removal of the embroidery to reveal the undyed section

Ex. Bagobosawal (trousers)

http://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/nationalmuseumbeta/Collections/Ethno/Trouser.html

Decorative weaving techniques Design comes from

weaving process (not dyeing)

Warp and weft threads are interlaced together

Use of different colored threads to make strips and plaids

Warp-faced, weft-faced, or balanced weave

Photo from http://collections.burkemuseum.org/ethnology/WebImages/Burke/large/0000265685.jpg

Decorative weaving Produces complex

mosaic designs Weft threads in

many colors, do not pass through entire area of warp

Symmetrical design Usually with central

design bordered by smaller areas

Photo from http://www.kipas.nl/Textiles/JPG/Langkit3.JPG

Supplementary Thread Techniques Special threads

inserted into the weft but are made to float over a section of warp threads to form patterns of color and texture contrasting with the ground

Ex. Tingguian blanket

Photo from http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/tinggian21.jpg

Checkered Striped patterns Geometric

patterns Colors:

Red Black Blue Yellow Photo from

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9usVSmMBZys/THZPIOpCNJI/AAAAAAAAAbE/2PhH7ShvJHQ/s1600/Cordilleras+166a.jpg

Gaddang Close winding

lines that simulate pattern of python’s skin

Addition of tiny beads

Photo from http://www.tribaltextiles.info/community/viewtopic.php?t=1539&view=next&sid=ce90688259ca95e087016cb186e77195

Tingguian Different motifs of rivers (zigzag pattern),

horse, deer, proud men and twins Present-day motifs are bigger

Photo from http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/tinggian41.jpg

Photo from http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/tinggian11.jpg

T’boli Zigzag forming

triangles From ancient

tumpal motif of Dongson culture

Crab, python, mythical bird, frog, shield, man in house, geometric motifs Photo from

http://matsysdesign.com/studios/compositebodies/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/iates9811.jpg

FAK (FROG) SIYUFUN (SCORPION)

T’boli Bangala design

Hexagons with man with symmetrical arms and legs

Means that “man is secure within his own home”

Photo from http://s2.hubimg.com/u/3113577_f520.jpg

Bilaan Man, animals,

geometric Human and

crocodile figures so stylized that crocodile-human representation seems to merge

Tumpal = elongated triangles in a row

Mandaya Traditional dagmay

textile has human figure or that of crocodile

Realistic figures found in ikatfabric, while the more abstract and geometric representations are embroidered on textiles

“Process of making cloth by means of interlacing a series of parallel longitudinal threads called the warp, at the right angles with another series of lateral threads, called the weft or woof.”

“ Traditionally, the entire process of weaving cloth, for daily use or for ritual, has been the work of women.”

Major weaving towns: Santa Maria, Santiago, and Vigan in Ilocos

Sur Sarrat and Paoay in Ilocos Norte Bangar in La Union

Pinilian (meaning chosen) blanket Itneg/Tinguian

blanket Supplementary weft

technique Red, white, and

yellow with startlike motif

Photo from http://philippine-made.blogspot.com/2010/08/pinilian-blanket.html

Binacol Itneg blanket Mathematically

precise supplementary weft woven cloths

Tradition of optical illusion, achieving a pulsating three-dimensionality two-dimensionally

Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/father05/2445252920/

Ilokano Blanket Woven blanket

possessed by Igorot chieftain = symbol of wealth and prestige

Photo from: http://www.reflectionsofasia.com/_borders/Igorot_Blanket___Large_small.jpg

Tapis Wraparound cloth for

skirt Standard wear for

women Ifugao, Bontoc,

Kankanay, Ibaloy, Tinguian, Isneg, and Gaddang Photo from

http://collections.burkemuseum.org/ethnology/WebImages/Burke/large/0000265685.jpg

G-string Loincloth Standard

wear for men

Photo from http://www.flickr.com/photos/ayeona/1157387835/

Piña Cloth Leaves of

pineapple plant Suffered decline

until discovered by haute couture

Cloth for tailoring, handkerchiefs, napkins, altar linen Photo from

http://www.divamanila.se/sites/default/files/images/pina/Pineapple-fiber-extraction.jpg

Pinukpok cloth Similar to Piña cloth Woven from banana fiber Pounded to make more pliant

Hablon Miagao, Iloilo Means ‘weave’ Silk + cotton Produces a

gloss smooth textile for clothing

Cotton Patadyong Miagao, Iloilo Less ornate and

shorter than Maranaomalong

With stripes of contrasting color

Complemented with kimona

OTHER WOVEN ITEMS Blankets

Workmanship well-known in Carcar, Cebu Woven on frame looms called habol

Pillowcases Mosquito nets

Malong Woven by Maranao

and Maguindanao Large wrap-around

cloth Sewn together

lengthwise along the edges to form squares

Cotton or silk

Malong Versatile garment For men and women tubular garment

Maguindanaomalong recurring designs,

sometimes with supplementary weft

Every day wear: usually plaids or stripes

Malong Simple malong=

simple bands of alternating colors

Special occasions= silk and decorated with gold thread to form stylized tree of life designs

Malong Women: tie it around upper chest or knot it

around one shoulder Men: knot around waist

Purposes of Malong Shields body for

rituals Childcare Hammock for

injured “Umbrella” Blanket Sack for food Curtain

TYPES: Landapmalong

Used for ceremonial occasions

one solid color or two alternating colors

Landapmalong Langkit = band separately woven in

tapestry weave Lakban Tobiran

Andonmalong Ikatmotifs in warp and

weft techniques Geometric motifs (stars,

circles, etc.) between checks or stripes

Babalodan Rare kind of malong Floral geometric

designs Kepala = central area

of babalodan

OTHER GROUPS: Yakan

Multicolored scarves and belts T’boli Mandaya Bagobo Tausug

Kandit =colorful waistcloth Pis = headcloth

Spanish Occupation New traditions of

clothing and tailoring textiles

Bordadoras (embroiderers) emerged in Malate and provinces

Barong Tagalog Maria Clara

Use of fine transparent material like jusi or piña

Calado Fine open-work

combined with solid areas of design

Photo from http://www.artesdelasfilipinas.com/archives.php?page_id=40

“…the art of fashioning containers by weaving, plaiting or braiding organic materials from leaves, vines, midribs, and holes into hollow three-dimensional shapes that fuse design and function.”

“…reflects its social matrix, the tropical environment, and the occupations of the

folk that draw from the resources of land, river, and sea.”

Mediates man and nature Motifs symbolize man as a part of nature

and someone who shares the common vitality of all living forms

Found in many lowland provinces Pangasinan – “province of basket-weavers” Other places: Laoag, Ilocos Norte,

Zambales in Luzon; Islands of Samar and Romblon in Visayas; Maranao and Maguindanao in Mindanao

Bamboo Gathered from dense

groves Cut and split into

strips for weaving Outer skin acquires a

yellow sheen as it ages

“has a finesse and purity, combined with resilience and strength

Taken from http://world.mongabay.com/tagalog/travel/files/p7275p.html on August 20,2012

Coconut midribs Strong structure Used to reinforce

other materials

Taken from http://shootandscootph.blogspot.com/2012/01/10th-national-coconut-festival.html on August 20, 2012

Buri palm and anahaw Large leaves Dried and flattened

to make the basket

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taken from http://www.neda.gov.ph/knowledge-emporium/default.asp?offset=360on August 20, 2012

Vines Dark nito and

reddish sigid Valued for strength

and decorative potential

Dark tones are contrasted with lighter toned materials

taken from http://dipologcity.com/nitoweavinginsert.htmon August 20, 2012

taken from http://www.alibaba.com/countrysearch/PH/all-kinds-of-vines.htmlon August 20, 2012

Rattan and Pandanus leaf

Other materials: banban plant, silong-pugo

taken from http://www.thepinoywarrior.com/2011/01/rattan-pinoy-warriors-vine.htmlon August 21, 2012

taken from http://www.mypandan.com/on August 21, 2012

Alternating inner and outer skin (for light and dark contrast)

Use of different materials Use of geometric designs Use of natural dyes by the Maranao

and the Maguindanao

Carrying Storing Trapping

Bilao carrying basket for

winnowing rice

taken from http://markg87.net/my-heart-is-being-crashed/on August 21, 2012

taken from http://www.flickr.com/photos/elmer_ng_pateros/1572658387/on August 21, 2012

Pasiking Cordillera backpack

taken from http://www.richardgervaiscollection.com/collection/details/41/2/basketry/bontoc-backpack-basket.htmlon August 21, 2012ta

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Labba Ilocano basket

Koppit Bontoc basket Contains several

close-fitting sections

taken from http://www.reflectionsofasia.com/ladies_labba.htmon August 21, 2012

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taken from http://pages.morethanmccoy.com/8731/PictPage/1922615199.htmlon August 21, 2012

Salakab used to catch fish in

rice paddies made of bamboo

stakes curving out from a single node of bamboo

taken from http://halamanansahalang.blogspot.com/2008/10/salakab.htmlon August 21, 2012

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Agawen Ifugao basket Used for trapping

snails

taken from http://www.spurlock.illinois.edu/search/index.php?q=2007.15&Search=Searchon August 21, 2012

Tiruray baskets from Cotabato Geometric motifs

with contrasting colors

Motifs could also include human figures

These images were taken from http://class.csueastbay.edu/anthropologymuseum/virtmus/Philippines/Crafts/Tiruray_basketry.htmon August 21, 2012

Bagobo baskets Simple and

functional Personal bags often

have tiny bells and multicolored beads

taken from http://www.seasite.niu.edu/Tagalog/Cynthia/Mindanao/ethnolingusticgroups.htmon August 21, 2012

taken from http://www.richardgervaiscollection.com/collection/details/320/2/basketry/bagobo-tribe-basket.htmlon August 21, 2012

“The art of weaving or plaiting strips of organic fibers into mats.”

“Our mat tradition will attest to the artistry and the superb skills required to accomplish the intricacy evident in this woven works of art.”

Sleeping mats Drying grain or copra Floor mats or rugs Tablecloths & placemats

Advantages: cool, light, portable, space-savers

Used to be a medium of exchange & barter

More ornate mats are made for wedding rituals & other festive occasions

Southern weavers make them for prayer mats or household decor

Traditionally woven by women Process can take several weeks to

accomplish Example: pandan plant

19th – 20th Century Made to order by families and individuals Used as gifts at special occasions

(weddings, birthdays ect) Commemorative mats bore letters &

names, often with floral or geometric borders

21st Century Mats easily bought at native stores &

itinerant woman vendors

Work of women Ornate Mats = status symbols /

decadent gifts Often given during special occasions for

high value of mats (ex. value of Tinalak = house)

Occupy special place in home (ex. altar, wall hangings, etc. )

White buri mats Lacelike design

on the edges Used during

weddings; newlyweds dance on the mat while relatives try to pin money on their clothes

Taken from gutenberg.org on August 22, 2012

Made from tikog sedge &buri palm

Bright colors Embroidered

flowers, peacocks, imaginary scenes

May carry the image and name of maker if commissioned

Taken from members.virtualtourist.com on August 22, 2012

Photo from http://gerryruiz.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/70711baseymatweaversw-7045.jpg

Photo from http://callezaragosa.com/gerryruizphotoblog/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/70711BaseyMatWeaversE2W-7059.jpg

Sesed mats Done in stripes and plaids Use an instrument called

agita to flatten and smooth sisid leaf

Taken from ourrestlessfeet.com on August 22, 2012

Taken from bohol.ph on August 22, 2012

Taken from buyantiquesandarts.weebly.com on Aug 23, 2012

Noted for workmanship& production of uniform strand

Taken from homeworks-edsci.blogspot.comon August 22, 2012

Taken from article.wn.com on August 22, 2012

Plain brown mats woven over with beige geometric decorations

Displays bolder and freer use of color and concepts

Taken from ironwulf.net on Aug 23, 2012

Taken from bahay-kubo.orgon Aug 23, 2012

Plain, soft-brown in color

Commonly used in Manila

Taken from colloidfarl.blogspot.com on Aug 23, 2012

More restrained and disciplined approach to design

Technically excellent

Highly pliable Uniform strand

length Durable due to tight

weave

Taken from digitaleducation.net on Aug 23, 2012

Intricate geometric designs

Double ply (coarse undecorated base and fine colored surfacing

Oho mats Used for rituals

outside houseTaken from bohol.ph on August 22, 2012

Multicolored stripes/squares, zigzag pattern, or two-color checks

Have exceptional pliability, fineness, smoothness & sheen

Serve as wall hangings

Taken from pacificbasinservices.com Aug 23, 2012