Exploring the Use of Amazonian Nanostructured Fibers as Prêt-à-porter Fabrics

2nd INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON NATURAL FIBERS

1 2nd ICNF – From Nature to Market

EXPLORING THE USE OF AMAZONIAN NANOSTRUCTURED FIBERS AS PRÊT-À-PORTER FABRICS Carolina Obregón 1, Magda Díaz2, Cristian Limas2, Yulianna Martínez3, Alis Pataquiva-Mateus2 1, Department of Fashion Design & Management, Jorge Tadeo Lozano University, Bogotá, Colombia 2, Department of Chemical Engineering, Jorge Tadeo Lozano University, Bogotá, Colombia 3, Department of Industrial Design, Jorge Tadeo Lozano University, Bogotá, Colombia (*) Email: [email protected], [email protected] ABSTRACT

This project aims to develop a new natural fiber from Amazonian palm leaves to produce Prêt-à-porter textiles. Our objective is to take economic and environmental aspects of natural resources into account in the fashion design textile process through collaborative and participatory design with the communities that have traditional knowledge of these endemic fibers. We will address the changes that are occurring in the way clothing is designed and produced using new and developing technologies. The business and sustainable thinking and multidisciplinary cooperation in product development are an essential part of how fashion design should be approached in order to propose innovative solutions that have a positive impact on the environment. The research will focus on natural fibers obtained from the Amazon, which are collected from the Colombian Amazonian rain forest. By studying the fiber morphology using scanning electron microscopy - SEM, will be then performed chemical composition (cellulose and hemicellulose) and mechanical properties of the fiber such as tensile strength and modulus of elasticity.

INTRODUCTION Our research proposal starts out with one premise: designers today must change their view of the production process and learn to work with biodegradable materials that do not have a negative impact to the environment, the economy, and society. Designers must be part of the solution and not continue to be part of the problem. It is crucial that a twenty first century designer, works within a holistic level. While many aspects of the fashion industry are unsustainable, textiles are a big topic. Hazardous chemicals have long-term threats to human health and the environment. These chemicals are persistent and have a bio accumulative effect, which can interfere with people and wildlife (International, G., 2011). Thousands of tons of chemicals are released into nature during the production phase, and mass-production of polyester garments, besides, polyester contains antimony, a metal known to cause cancer (McDonough, W., & Braungart, M., 2002).

Colombia´s emerging economy has brought new responsibilities in fashion production, manufacturing and design. International Trade Agreements with the United States and China has made Colombia's exports fall and imports rise, where the United States exported more than $18.4 billion worth of goods to Colombia in 2013 (California Chamber of Commerce, 2015). Although, Colombia’s National Plan for Development decree (Ministerio de Agricultura, 2013), states that “strengthening the activities of bio-commerce which promotes biodiversity at all levels, as an alternative for sustainable development”. In addition, the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development –UNCTAD-, signed an agreement



(2002) with Colombia where its aim was to build markets for the development of biodiversity products including fibers and natural dyes (UNCTAD, 2002). Despite widespread international interest, Amazonian natural fibers are not commonly used nor understood. The literature is clearly divided in its assessment: which is viewed as an artisanal textile or as a risky, uncertain and costly process. We address the environmental needs and competing views of producing an Amazonian endemic fiber through a nanometric scale processing in an attempt to see if such a practice can be positioned internationally. Natural fibers are part of the textile industry which provides products for clothing, furniture, packaging, among countless other applications, which has grown significantly (Moir & Plastina, 2009). However natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, and linen, growth was much lower due to factors such as trends in fashion, technology textile production, logistics, commercial agreements, population, prices, availability of fibers, among others (Moir & Plastina, 2009). Notwithstanding the fluctuations in fashion, natural fibers are always used as raw materials. This fact is strengthened by millions of people around the world who depend on the production of natural fibers for their livelihood as in many developing countries and even in developed ones. To promote the production and use of natural fibers, the United Nations declared in 2009 the International Year for National Fibers, emphasizing improvements in efficiency and sustainability (Moir & Plastina, 2009). The supply of natural fibers is usually plentiful and relatively at a lower cost than synthetic fibers. From an environmental point of view, natural fibers are biodegradable which alleviates the problem of disposal in landfills (Ho et al., 2012), in contrast to the contaminants caused by synthetic fibers. Plenty of endemic plants are found in the Colombian Amazon; a country characterized by its biological diversity or biodiversity due to the totality of genes, species, and ecosystems that compose its environment. Examples of Amazonian fibers found from Colombia´s plants that are sustainably produced such as the CBlanca (Ficus Maxima), Yanchama Colorada (Poulsenia Armata), Chambira (Astrocaryum Chambira), and the Moriche – Canangucha (Mauritia Felxuosa) (SINCHI, 2014).

Through experimentation of new natural Amazonian fibers it is possible to develop practical ways to obtain environmentally sound textiles. Innovation integrated through nanotechnology natural fibers can create a bridge towards strengthening a fashion designer’s creativity. The grave matter is to rescue our ancestor’s culture and translate its usefulness to a sustainable living (Charter, M., & Tischner, U., 2001). It is of the outmost importance to learn to identify properties of the fibers to be used, which will eventually optimize its value, as well as to learn to work with nature’s cycles. Natural fibers complexity lies in the infinite possibilities that can come about. Ancient practices can be rescued through the use of these fibers bringing them to the industrialized world. Creating a sustainable lifestyle must follow products that comply with sustainable standards. The development of sustainable materials is a requirement in order to further educate and inspire other designers who can contribute with their knowledge to ongoing research. By working with a multidisciplinary approach product, textile and fashion designers can benefit from this practical research and develop innovation within their practice.



MATERIALS AND METHODS

Diameter assessment Diameter of fibers was determined by direct measurement of a caliper. Alcaline Treatment The Yanchama Colorada fiber used in this study was obtained from the Colombian rain forest. Prior to treatment, the moisture present in the fiber was removed through a drying process at 100 ° C for 20 hours and 20°C for 72 hours without compromise the nature of fiber (Castro et al, 2007). The fiber samples were then exposed to an alkaline treatment (NaOH aqueous solution (w/w), in proportion 50:1; mass alkaline solution: fiber mass) to decrease the content of lignin present in the fibers. Finally, the fibers were washed with distilled water to ensure the neutral pH (Castro et al, 2007). In Table 1 it is observed the treatment performed and coding samples processed in which 6 specimens were taken for each sample. Table 1. Coding for Yanchama Colorada fiber samples.

CODE DRYING ALCALINE TREATMENT

TEMPERATURE (°C)

EXPOSURE TIME (h) NaOH (%w/w) EXPOSURE TIME

(min) YC100 -20-5-30 100 20 5 30 YC100-20-5-60 100 20 5 60

YC100-20-2.5-30 100 20 2.5 30 YC100-20-2.5-60 100 20 2.5 60

YC20-72-5-30 20 72 5 30 YC20-72-5-60 20 72 5 60

YC20-72-2.5-30 20 72 2.5 30 YC20-72-2.5-60 20 72 2.5 60

YC No treatment FTIR ATR measurements Samples were analyzed by FTIR reflectance spectrometry (Prestige-21, Shimadzu, Japan with a Universal ATR attachment with a diamond and ZnSe crystal). The measurements were conducted in the range of 400–4000 cm− 1 at room temperature. To characterize the Microlab PC method was configured and then cleaning was performed at the interface to place the sample with an area of 1 cm2. Maximum pressure was exercised between the screw and the sample interface in order for the computer to work properly. Two trials for each sample type were performed. Mechanical testing Estimation to the breaking strength and elongation of the samples were conducted using the ASTM D1445 standard. Electronic universal testing machine computer control WDW-J was used for this test. Different samples were taken with a 3 cm2 area (6 cm long and 0.5 cm wide) and with an extension in the middle of 3 mm at each end. The operating conditions of



six test specimens for each sample type were performed at room temperature with a speed of 5 mm/ min and a distance between clamps of 5 cm. Coating with magnesium hydroxide nanostructures All reagents were used without further purification. Yanchama Colorada fibers were placed in ultrasonic irradiation and dipped for 5 cycles in Mg(NO3)2.6H2O (Merck), KOH with immersion for 1 minute in distilled water after every reagent. At the end of cycles, samples were dried overnight at 45°C.

Scanning electron microscopy – SEM Samples of fibers were studied with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, JEOL model JSM 6490LV). Previously, samples were sputter coated with gold to avoid charging then samples were analyzed with an acceleration voltage of 30 kV. RESULTS Until now, Yanchama Colorada fiber has been used in making garments for indigenous rituals; however, its texture can be modified n order to obtain a smooth surface with an alkaline treatment increasing at the same time its mechanical properties. Yanchama colorada is an unexplored fiber that can be exploited for commercial purposes providing value added to the fiber and the production chain that lies behind. Alkaline treatment decreases the lignin content producing a smooth texture and improving its mechanical properties and an ultrasound irradiation promote the nanocoating with Mg(OH)2 on its surface providing new features such as flame retardant. Diameter assessment Carrying out a direct measurement of caliper it was found that the Yanchama Colorada fiber has an average diameter 76.68 ± 7.05 um (n=12). Alkaline treatment This treatment produces changes in the original fiber color as can be observed in Figure 1. Fiber without further treatment has an open structure while fiber under different conditions of concentration, exposure time and drying time produces a yellowish color of the fiber.



Figure 1. Micrographs from Yanchama Colorada. Natural fiber (left), YC20-72-2.5-30

(center), and YC100-20-2.5-30 (right). Magnification 10x. FTIR ATR measurements In figure 2 changes in infrared spectra (FTIR) of Yanchama colorada samples were observed. The water OH stretching vibrational frequency in samples of fibers was found in the range 3100-3600 cm-1, then natural fibers shown higher content of water than sample YC100-20-2.5-30. The vibrations increased at 1386 cm-1 related to the presence of N-O groups. Furthermore, an increment in the vibration is observed around 869.8 and 872 cm-1 wavelengths, compared to natural fiber (YC) does not contain this vibration. Using the solution of caustic soda increased adjacent hydrogen’s, meaning another way to increase the bending of the CH bonds in the fiber of Yanchama colorada.

Figure 2. FTIR-ATR analysis of Yanchama Colorada fibers under different conditions. (1)

YC100-20-2.5-30, (2) YC20-72-5-60, (3) YC100-20-5-30, (4) YC20-72-5-30, (5) YC100-20-5-60, (6) YC100-20-2.5-60, (7) YC20-72-2.5-30, (8) YC20-72-2.5-60, (9) YC.



Mechanical testing Elongations of Yanchama Colorada samples were analyzed from variables such as NaOH concentration, exposure concentration, drying temperature and time (Fig 3). Natural fiber had an elastic behavior and it was lost when exposure time and concentration of sodium hydroxide were increased. In fact, after 30 min of exposure fibers treated with 2.5% NaOH had higher elongation that treatment with 5% NaOH. However, after 60 min this situation varied implying that the time of exposure is an important variable in the elongation response. Fibers such as YC20-72-2.5-60 and YC20-72-5-60 had not significant difference, while YC100-20-5-60 and YC100-20-2.5-60 had different behavior compared to the same at 30 min, increasing their elongation for both 2.5 and 5% of NaOH. Figure 4 shows tensile behavior of Yanchama Colorada fibers. Samples YC20-72-2.5-60 and YC20-72-5-60 at 60 min, and YC20-72-2.5-30 and YC20-72-5-30 at 30 min presented higher tensile values than natural fiber. This fact implies that higher time (72 h) and lower temperature (20ºC) were the most impact variables to improve tensile behavior of fibers. Higher values of elongation and tensile strength were obtained in the sample YC20-72-2.5-60 of 521 kPa, similar to strength fibers such as hemp with 690 kPa (Williams & Wool, 2000).

Figure 3. Elongation of Yanchama Colorada samples under different conditions. (!) YC,

(") YC20-72-2.5-30, (O) YC20-72-5-30, (p) YC100-20-2.5-30, (#) YC100-20-5-30, (u) YC100-20-5-60, (◊) YC100-20-2.5-60, (-) YC20-72-2.5-60, (X) YC20-72-5-60.



Figure 4. Tensile behavior of Yanchama Colorada fibers under different conditions. (!) YC, (") YC20-72-2.5-30, (O) YC20-72-5-30, (p) YC100-20-2.5-30, (#) YC100 -20-5-30, (u)

YC100-20-5-60, (◊) YC100-20-2.5-60, (-) YC20-72-2.5-60, (X) YC20-72-5-60. Nanocoating with magnesium hydroxide Selected Yanchama Colorada samples (YC and YC20-72-2.5-60) were processed with ultrasound-promoted coating under different conditions of time and reagents concentration. Table 2. Yanchama Colorada samples coated with nanoparticles of magnesium hydroxide using ultrasound irradiation.

SAMPLE Mg(NO3)2.6H2O (ppm)

KOH (ppm)

IMMERSION TIME (MIN) CODE

YC20-‐72-‐2.5-‐60 2 2 1 YC20-‐2-‐1 YC20-‐72-‐2.5-‐60 4 4 1 YC20-‐4-‐1 YC20-‐72-‐2.5-‐60 4 4 3 YC20-‐4-‐3 Figure 5 shows micrograps of Yanchama Colorada without further treatment (Fig 5a) compared to those with nanocoating of Mg(OH)2 using ultrasound irradiation technique (Fig 5b-d). Thinner crystals of magnesium hydroxide were obtained in YC20-4-3 implying that the time of immersion is a decisive variable in the diameter of the particle. However, YC20-2-1 shows a homogeneous coating, and YC20-4-1 had not a thinner crystallization but layers were formed on fiber surface.



(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

Figure 5. Scaning electron micrographs of Yanchama Colorada samples. (a) YC, (b) YC20-2-1, (c) YC20-4-1, (d) YC20-4-3.



CONCLUSIONS

Fibers from Amazonian palms are widely used by artisans from Colombia, Brazil and Peru, and are known to provide fibers with excellent features such as mechanical properties and good appearance. Fibers were obtained from Amazonian palm leaves, which were collected from Colombian Amazonia. About its characterization, fiber morphology was studied using scanning electron microscopy - SEM (JEOL, JSM 6490-LV). Its chemical composition, related to structural carbohydrates (cellulose and hemicellulose) and ash, was assessed following the NREL standards (Sluiter et al., 2008a; Sluiter et al., 2008b), respectively. Mechanical properties of the fiber such as tensile strength and modulus of elasticity were performed in accordance with ASTM D638-77A standards. Once the initial physical, chemical and mechanical properties of fiber are known, it will proceed with pretreatment of fiber by physical/chemical techniques. Next, a coating with nanostructures (nanoshells or nanofilms) offering to improve some of the initial characteristics which are desirable to preserve such as brightness, texture, flexibility, etc. After knowing the value of moisture in the fiber and dry fiber density and does not dry (Fahmy & Mobarak, 2008), it can determine the pore volume of the dry fibers by the density of fibers in water and xylene (Fahmy & Mobarak, 2008). Finally glucose uptake in the cell walls of never dried cellulose fibers by entrapment with a glucose solution nanopores fibers Ibid. Same battery of physical, chemical and mechanical characterization was performed to nanostructured fibers with the aim of comparing each level change undergone by the fiber before and after processing. The cellulose content found in fibers are near to those presented in Jacitara palm (66.1%), sisal (65.0%) and Curaua (73.6%) (Fonseca et al., 2013). Even though, mechanical properties are lower than other natural fibers, fibers can be use for fabrics as well due to its appearance and its sustainable production. Best results were obtained for sample YC20-72-2.5-60 related to elongation and tensile strength (24 mm, 521 kPa, respectively). Nanocoating of Mg(OH)2 using ultrasound irradiation on Yanchama Colorada is influenced by concentration of reagents and time of immersion in order to obtain homogeneous coating with smaller particles. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The authors gratefully acknowledge the technical support from Dr. Juan P. Hinestroza, Jorge Tadeo Lozano University and Universidad de Los Andes facilities.

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Exploring the Use of Amazonian Nanostructured Fibers as Prêt-à-porter Fabrics

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