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???SECOND EDITION EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE Published by the Academy of Korean Studies Press First Edition in December 2010 Second Edition in December 2014 Edited by the Center for International Affairs Photo by Seo Jae-sik Address The Academy of Korean Studies 323 Haogae-ro, Bundang-gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do 463-791, Korea Tel 82-31-708-5360 Fax 82-31-701-1343 Homepage book.aks.ac.kr Copyright 2010 The Academy of Korean Studies No portion of the contents may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the Academy of Korean Studies. ISBN 979-11-86178-16-4 03900 Printed in Korea SECOND EDITION EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE Heritage means the spiritual and material culture that we have inherited from our ancestors. It is the basis of our lives and is an asset we must leave behind to our descendants. It is an irreplaceable source of life and inspiration. In 1972, UNESCO held the Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural WHC (World Heritage Committee), also known as the World Heritage Convention, in order to discover, protect, and preserve the natural heritages that contain universal values to mankind. Since then, UNESCO has held the annually, World Committee of UNESCO general assembly, to determine World Heritages. In order to be registered a World Heritage; the cultural and natural heritages must be recognized for their authenticity, superiority of value, and maintenance of the state. Upon registration as a World Heritage, UNESCO will provide technical support for the prevention of damages and permanent safekeeping. Some nations might be eligible for funding, as well. UNESCO World Heritage is categorized into natural properties for natural objects, cultural properties for products of human work, and mixed properties for joint production pieces between nature and human. Also, there is a separate category List of World Heritage Sites in Danger. As of 2010, 911 World heritages in 151 nations are registered and managed. 33 out of which are separately listed as World Heritage Sites in Danger. Korea, with its 5,000 years of history has various precious heritages worthy of being World Heritage. Some of them have been selected as various tangible and intangible heritages, according to the Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural WHC. With the 4 5 addition of Historic Villages of Korea: Hahoe and Yangdong to the World Heritage, this August, Korea will be home to 9 Cultural Heritages, 1 Natural Heritage, 7 Memories of the World, and 8 Intangible Heritages. When considering the small size of the land, this number demonstrates the long history and tradition of Korea has a very high global value. The Exploring Korean History Through World Heritage (2010 edi- tion) will introduce Koreas World Heritages, determined by UNESCO, to fo- reigners. The book tries to refrain from providing simple, factual informa- tion on cultural heritages, and connects the cultural heritage with Korean his- tory. It is impossible to show all the long history of Korea in a single book. Despite that, I hope that this book will be a key opportunity to understand Koreas history, culture, and tradition. December 2014 President of the Academy of Korean Studies The Center for International Affairs (CEFIA) at the Academy of Korean Studies (AKS) conducts projects to disseminate the proper understanding of Korea more accurately and faithfully, as well as developing materials on the history and culture of Korea. By publishing this book, we added and emended the Exploring Korean History Through World Heritage, that was published in 2005, and now introduce UNESCO World Heritages in Korea. This book will provide experience in the long history, culture, and tradition of Korea and not just to expert researchers of Korean studies in the international society, but also to the students of Korean studies, as well as the general public. The aim of this book is to introduce the overall history and culture of Korea through 19 different pieces of culture that are currently on the Korean peninsula and are registered with UNESCO. The 19 pieces of World Heritages, Memories of the World, and Intangible Heritages give a balanced view of the 5,000 year long Korean history from the prehistoric times to the modern times. Koreans might have created these heritages, but now they are outstanding pieces of property with universal values for all mankind. Korea is home to a relatively large number of world class World Heritages, Memories of the World, and Intangible Heritages that need to be protected for everyone to enjoy. We must strive to make people appreciate the existence and value of these cultural heritages, and furthermore, protect them. Through such efforts, the uniqueness and excellence of the Korean history and culture will naturally take root in the minds and hearts of people around the world. We also hope that this book will improve the readers understanding of the Korean history and culture, and also enhance the 6 recognition of its excellence and improve the image of Korea. Many people have generously given their help in creating this book, particularly those that have thoroughly reviewed the manuscript written in 2005, and rewrote the additional parts. Thank you to Lee Yeong-chun, the head of the Research Publication Department of the National Institute of Korean History, professor Kim Il-gwon, professor Ok Yeong-jeong and researcher Chang Ki-hong of the Academy of Korean Studies. A special thanks to Leif P. Olson, the Deputy Director of Korean Studies at the Korea Society for his special interest in the culture and tradition of Korea. I would also like to thank Mr. Seo Jae-sik for providing us with such wonderful pictures to be used in the book, as well as Yun Ji-seon, the head of the division of publication at the Academy of Korean Studies, as well as everyone in the division of publication. My thanks also to Song Taek-sung for the translation of this book, Andrew W. Ignash for the Supervision of this book despite the difficulty of its contents. This book is the fruit of many peoples labor, and I sincerely hope that it will help in introducing the long history and tradition of Korea to foreigners, while enhancing Koreas international image. December 2014 Kim Hyeon 7 CONTENTS SEOKGURAM GROTTO AND BULGUKSA TEMPLE HAEINSA TEMPLE JANGGYENG PANJEON, THE DEPOSITORY OF THE TRIPITAKA JONGMYO SHRINE GOGURYEO TOMB COMPLEX HISTORIC VILLAGES OF KOREA: HAHOE AND YANGDONG 4 6 12 22 32 50 70 84 94 104 114 124 THE ROYAL ANCESTRAL RITE AND RITUAL MUSIC IN JONGMYO SHRINE THE PANSORI EPIC CHANT THE GANGNEUNG DANOJE FESTIVAL MEMORY OF THE WORLD HUNMINJEONGEUM MANUSCRIPT (KOREAN ALPHABET) BAEGUN HWASANG CHOROK BULJO JIKJISIMCHEYOJEOL (JIKJI) SEUNGJEONGWON ILGI, THE DIARIES OF THE ROYAL SECRETARIAT UIGWE: THE ROYAL PROTOCOLS OF THE JOSEON DYNASTY DONGUIBOGAM: PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OF EASTERN MEDICINE WORLD HERITAGE MAP HAEINSA TEMPLE JANGGYENG PANJEON, THE DEPOSITORY OF THE TRIPITAKA JONGMYO SHRINE GOGURYEO TOMB COMPLEX HISTORIC VILLAGES OF KOREA: HAHOE AND YANGDONG SEOKGURAM GROTTO AND BULGUKSA TEMPLE Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple, both of which were built in the mid-eighth century during the Unified Silla era, provide a comprehensive view of the development of Buddhist art. Seokguram Grotto is one of the greatest achievements of the golden age of Silla, completely reflecting Silla architecture, mathematics, geo- metry, religion, and art, granting Bulguksa Temple a unique archi- tectural beauty that perfectly illustrates Buddhist ideals. Yeonhwagyo and Chilbogyo Bridges in Bulguksa Temple. The bridges symbolize the path connecting Earth and the blissful land of Buddha realized in Bulguksa Temple. The Baegungyo and Cheongungyo Bridges in the background have the same symbolism. After unification, Silla reformed its dominant political institutions, as well as its economic system and society, remaining stable until the mid-eighth century. However, a power struggle among the aristocracy over the succession to the throne arose in the late eighth century. Powerful local gentry took advantage of this lapse in state control and the confused state of affairs to develop into independent powers. By the late ninth century, rebellions in every province drove Silla into a state of chaos. Two rebel leaders, Gyeonhwon and Gungye, founded Later Baekje and Later Goguryeo respectively, and Silla was consequently reduced to a small country consisting only of Gyeongju and its immediate surroundings. This era is known as the Later Three Kingdoms Period. Gungye, the founder of Later Goguryeo, resorted to despotism, and was eventually overthrown by Wang Geon, one of his subjects. Following his accession to the throne, Wang Geon renamed his country Goryeo. Silla sur- rendered itself to Goryeo, which was now the strongest of the Later Three Kingdoms states, and collapsed. The dominant ideology of Unified Silla was Buddhism, which was popular among the ruling class because it justified and consolidated their leadership on a religious foundation. Buddhism s influence expanded to the wider public at the beginning of the Unified Silla era, the result of the efforts of many priests, including Wonhyo and Uisang, and the political require- ments of the king who sought to build unity with Goguryeo and Baekje on their shared Buddhist faith. Silla Buddhist culture experienced a golden age in the eighth centu- ry when Buddhism began to be actively studied, leading to the writings of great priests. Silla Buddhist culture developed considerably, especially in the 14 Complete view of Bulguksa. The building of which only the roof is visible is Museoljeon. The tops of Dabotap and Seokgatap stand out gracefully above it. Dabotap (Seokgatap appears in the background) EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE 15 SEOKGURAM GROTTO AND BULGUKSA TEMPLE EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE 16 realm of art, which displayed a highly developed and mature aesthetic sensi- bility that went far beyond the simplicity of Three Kingdoms period art forms. During this time, artists strove, somewhat paradoxically, through the use of realistic techniques, to represent an idealized world of unity, harmony, and beauty, rather than portraying objects realistically. Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple are representative works of advanced Unified Silla era Buddhist art. Kim Dae-seong, the prime minister of the kingdom, began the construction of Seokguram Grotto in the mid- eighth century under the rule of King Gyeongdeok; it took twenty-four years to complete. Seokguram Grotto, named Seokbulsa Temple at the time of its construction, was modeled after a rock cave temple in China, though the Chinese cave is a natural rock cave, while the Korean one is purely artificial. Seokguram Grotto is composed of a rectangular front room and a circular main room, modeled after an ancient Indian-style grotto. The rock cave of Seokguram Grotto was created near the eastern peak of Tohamsan Mountain using white granite. Within its confines are thir- ty-nine carved Buddhist images including female Buddhist statues on the main wall, centering on the Seokgayeorae Bulsang, the Buddha s statue. The cave has a rectangular front room and a circular main room that are connect- ed to each other by a passage, and the subtle architectural technique, in which the domed ceiling of its circular main room was created with about 360 flagstones, is unique in the world. The rectangular front room at the entrance to Seokguram Grotto contains four carved guardian images on each side, as well as a carved Deva king image on each side of the mouth of the inner passage, and two carved Deva images on each side of the narrow passage. Passing through the narrow 17 SEOKGURAM GROTTO AND BULGUKSA TEMPLE Distant view of Seokguram Buddha s in Seokguram passage, one comes to the circular main room, which possesses a domed ceiling and an octagonal stone pillar set on each side of its entrance, while in the adjoining rectangular main room the principal Buddha image stands a lit- tle back from the center. Starting from the entrance, carved images of both female Buddhist statues and the ten great disciples of Buddha are located symmetrically along the inner walls of the temple. Behind the principal Buddha statue is an eleven-faced Buddhist Goddess of Mercy image. It may be said that these works are the best East Asian Buddhist carvings since they exhibit a mature carving technique and a realistic repre- sentation. In particular, the Gupta-style Buddha statue, Seokgayeorae Bulsang, located in the main room, represents the most ideal form of beauty. The Buddha s statue is a symbol of the spiritually enlightened Buddha who victoriously overcame the temptations and threats of demons. Bulguksa Temple, seated on the western mid-slopes of Tohamsan Mountain, was also constructed by Kim Dae-seong, who oversaw its com- pletion in twenty-four years. Bulguksa Temple is an earthly realization of the ideal Buddhist state as it was described in the Buddhist scriptures and as it existed in the spiritual world of the Silla people. It is the supreme artistic and architectural achievement of the Unified Silla era, in which profound Buddhist concepts and the soul of a gifted artist bore fruit in a unique way. Its excellence is acknowledged around the world. Bulguksa Temple grand and unique eighth-century stone structure as seen from the façade reflects the time of its construction; the wooden build- ing was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion of 1592 and rebuilt in the eighteenth century, while the corridor was restored in the 1960s. The stone structure is composed of magnificently diverse examples of well-cut EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE 18 19 SEOKGURAM GROTTO AND BULGUKSA TEMPLE Seokguram Bonjon Bulsang (the 3.5-meter-high main Buddha) is recognized by UNESCO as part of World Cultural Heritage and is especially spectacular in terms of the spirituality and artistry of its carving. EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE 20 stone, including long and short stepping and terrace stones, arched stones, round pillar stones, and handrail stones. The carefully chiseled stone posts and round stone handrails of both the Yeonhwagyo and Chilbogyo Bridges excel in their sophistication, magnificence, and smoothness. The three-story Seokgatap Pagoda (8.2m tall) at Bulguksa Temple possesses a simple and magnificent style that derives from the harmonized structure of its parts and an overall sense of balance. Another pagoda, the 10.4m tall Dabotap Pagoda, built by assembling well-cut stones on a square foundation (a similar style to what was used for wooden pagodas), is valued for its excellent artistic characteristics as well as its complex and splendid magnificence, unique structure, and original representation. During the dismantling of the Seokgatap Pagoda for remodeling in October 1966, archeologists discovered in the pagoda s second story, the Mugujeonggwang-dae-daranigyeong (Spotless Pure Light Dharani Sutra) inside a gold-copper reliquary. It is believed that this edition of the Mugujeonggwang-dae-daranigyeong was produced no later than AD 751 before the Seokgatap Pagoda was built; as such, it is the oldest extant wood- block printed object in the world. Both Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple were registered with World Heritage by UNESCO in December 1995. 21 SEOKGURAM GROTTO AND BULGUKSA TEMPLE The Eleven-Face Buddhist Goddess of Mercy image in Seokguram HAEINSA TEMPLE JANGGYENG PANJEON, THE DEPOSITORY OF THE TRIPITAKA The Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon, the Depository of the Tripitaka Koreana, the oldest of the existing buildings in Haeinsa Temple, is a treasure trove housing some 80,000 blocks of the Tripitaka Koreana. The Janggyeong Panjeon is the only set of buildings in the world that houses the Tripitaka Koreana. Haeinsa Temple features the traditional wooden building style of the early Joseon era; it is not only beautiful, but was designed to naturally provide its interior with such functions as ventilation, and temperature and humidity control. Complete view of Janggyeong Panjeon, the depositories for the 80,000 Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks at Haeinsa. The two buildings are arranged to the North and South of each other. The long building in the front is Beopbojeon Hall, and the one in the back is Sudarajang. Founded in the early ninth century, Goryeo independently unified the Later Three Kingdoms without the intervention of foreign powers in AD 936. The unification of the separate kingdoms by Goryeo did not include the territory of Balhae, although it did allow Balhae refugees to settle within its borders. Furthermore, the unification by Goryeo was the starting point for a single nation that was maintained until the division of the peninsula into North and South Korea in the mid-twentieth century. Wang Geon, the founder of Goryeo, gained support and assistance from powerful local gentry in each province. Goryeo was an aristocratic family-based society, and artistic products such as celadon and lacquer works inlaid with mother-of-pearl were developed to meet their needs. Goryeo exported these special products to Song China together with ginseng and paper, while it imported silk, spices, books, and other goods from Song. The name of Goryeo became known to the outside world through visiting Arabian traders. The current English word for Korea originated from the term Goryeo. The 470 years of the Goryeo era are usually divided into two rough- ly equal periods: before and after the revolt of the military officials in 1170. The aristocratic clans of Goryeo gradually attempted to monopolize political power, leading to frequent conflicts with the royal family and other aristo- cratic families. The various rebellions of the early twelfth century all arose as the result of the monopoly of power by a few aristocratic families and weak- ened royal authority. Amid such rebellions, the aristocratic family-based society of Goryeo fell into ever-deeper conflict without any active attempts to resolve the problem. Since the political order centered on the aristocratic families, civil EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE 24 25 HAEINSA TEMPLE JANGGYEONG PANJEON Distant view of Haeinsa officials were favored while military officials were largely ignored. Discontented military officials in turn massacred civil officials in an effort to seize political power. This in turn led to a fierce power struggle among mili- tary officials and a very unstable military regime. The chaotic political situa- tion only settled down when Choe Chung-heon, a military official, seized power. Thereafter, his family maintained a tight grip on the reins of power and Goryeo remained under the military rule of Choe s family for four gener- ations (or some sixty-two years). During a total of about ninety years of mili- tary government, Korea experienced its most frequent period of popular uprisings in its history, when even the lowest classes protested against the military government, shaking the state to its roots. In such an unstable situation and lacking the impetus for thorough systematic reform, Goryeo faced a national crisis when the Mongols invaded in the early thirteenth century. The military regime transferred its capital to Ganghwa Island and resisted the Mongols for forty years, but it could not escape the inevitable; eventually Goryeo surrendered and the military regime collapsed. Afterwards, Yuan (the name of the Mongolian dynasty in China, declared in 1271) intervened in Goryeo s administration for about seventy years, brining many changes. Under the influence of Yuan, many Mongolian customs were introduced into Goryeo society. Meanwhile, the power of Goryeo s royal family was weakened as the kings of Goryeo were replaced according to Yuan s needs, and social conflict deepened into the unparalleled great confusion of the late Goryeo era. The Tripitaka Koreana are the wood printing blocks that were carved under the rule of King Gojong of Goryeo. Tripitaka Koreana is both a library of Buddhist scriptures and a collection of the three baskets of EXPLORING KOREAN HISTORY THROUGH WORLD HERITAGE 26 Buddhist writings: sutras, laws, and treatises. In general, the Haeinsa Tripitaka is known as Goryeo Daejanggyeong (Grand Tripitaka of Goryeo) since it was made during the Goryeo era; however, it is also referred to as the Tripitaka Koreana (Eighty-Thousand Grand Tripitaka) because it contains 84,000 laws on over 80,000 wood printing blocks. It gained an additional name — that of the Remade Tripitaka when it was reproduced after the origi- nal edition (carved under the rule of King Hyeonjong of Goryeo in the early eleventh…