An assessment of the 2013 season and the first year of the community garden, the implications for future development and growth, and an educational guide for the future collective community gardening in Hannibal, Missouri. EVALUATION & EDUCATION MANUAL
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An assessment of the 2013 season and the first year of the community garden, the
implications for future development and growth, and an educational guide for the future
collective community gardening in Hannibal, Missouri.
EVALUATION & EDUCATION MANUAL
1
EVALUATION & EDUCATION MANUAL
PURPOSE & OBJECTIVES
This manual is a resource guide for community gardening, for volunteers and
leaders, and for prospective persons or groups interested in developing more
community gardens. Common Ground Community Garden is the pilot project
for Hannibal Parks & Recreation. The content within the report is informed by
research, personal experience of volunteers, and trial and error for best
practices. The manual is organized into several chapters that touch on all
aspects of community gardening at Common Ground and address the needs of
the garden, the successes and failures, general tips and recommendations, &
the educational opportunities that coincide with the sustainable community
gardening model. Although there is ample information available for gardening,
this guide is customized to accommodate the specific needs of the location and
the Hannibal community. The focus of the manual is on creating and
maintaining a sustainable community garden structure, using education to
encourage outreach, and to provide healthy, organic food alternatives.
Recognizing the potential for this model to expand in the community, the
manual can be used as a foundation for other community gardens in the area.
To fulfill the purpose of this document, the manual is divided into seven
objectives:
1.) Introduction to the Garden
2.) Volunteer Outreach & Education Opportunities
3.) Building & Planting
4.) Maintenance & Sustainable Practices
5.) First-Year Evaluation
6.) Future Challenges
7.) Summary & Recommendation
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The evaluation and
educational manual is the
result of the first year of the
Common Ground
Community Garden and is a
culmination of best practices
and recommendations for
future educational
opportunity and growth in
the Hannibal community.
Feedback from volunteers,
constant research in the
area and an ongoing
assessment all contributes
to this preliminary
evaluation. The final report
is written and produced by
Jessie M. Dryden, social
engineer for Common Sense
for an Uncommon Bond and
garden manager for
Hannibal Parks &
Recreation.
2
I. INTRODUCTION TO COMMON GROUND COMMUNITY GARDEN……………pgs. 4-13
A. Overview ………………………………………………………………………………….pg. 4
B. Why Garden?...........................................................................................pg. 5
a. Community Garden Models…………………………………pg. 7
C. What is Common Ground? Mission & Purpose…………………………..pg. 8
a. Why Organic Materials?..............................................pg. 9
D. Program Budget & Deliverables………………………………………………..pg. 10
a. Budget Summary…………………………………………………pg. 10
b. Itemized Budget………………………………………………….pg. 11
E. References………………………………………………………………………………..pg. 13
II. BUILDING COMMUNITY ONE VOLUNTEER AT A TIME……………………………….pgs. 14-37
A. How to Works…………………………………………………………………………..pg. 15
B. Sample Registration Form…………………………………………………………pg. 16
C. Garden & Park Guidelines…………………………………………………………pg. 20
D. Establishing Clear Lines of Communication..………………………………pg. 21
a. Garden Communication Form……………………………pg. 22
b. Garden Task Checklist Form………………………………pg. 23
c. Volunteer Checklist Form………………………………….pg. 24
d. Sign-in Sheet…………………………………………………….pg. 25
E. Conflict Resolution……………………………………………………………………pg. 26
F. Volunteer Tasks: Lending a Helping Hand…………………………………pg. 28
a. Task Timeline……………………………………………………pg. 30
G. Workshops & Education Opportunities……………………………………..pg. 31
a. Compost Information Cards………………………………pg. 32
b. Plant Information Cards for Raised Beds……………pg. 35
H. Outreach Strategy…………………………………………………………………….pg. 36
a. Outreach Timeline…………………………………………….pg. 37
III. URBAN GREENING & CREATIVE GARDENING…………………………………………….pgs. 38-54
A. Reclaim, Recreate, & Revive—From Gray to Green………………………….pg. 39
B. RE-Creativity with Recyclables…………………………………………………………pg. 43
C. How to Build a Raised Bed……………………………………………………………….pg. 45
D. How to Plant: Cooperating with Nature—Square foot Gardening…….pg. 46
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a. Preparing Raised Beds…………………………………………….pg. 46
b. Square Foot Gardening…………………………………………..pg. 47
c. Creative Trellising…………………………………………………..pg. 49
E. Companion Planting………………………………………………………………………..pg. 50
F. When to Grow: Cool vs Warm Season Crops…………………………………….pg. 52
G. When to Plant Chart………………………………………………………………………...pg. 53
IV. MAINTAINING & SUSTAINING COMMON GROUND………………………………..pgs. 55-72
A. Maintaining Raised Beds…………………………………………………………………..pg. 57
a. Watering……………………………………………………………….pg. 57
b. Mulching, Weeding, & Pruning………………………………pg. 59
c. Composting…………………………………………………………..pg. 63
d. Identifying Problems………………………………………………pg. 65
i. Putting the Garden to Bed: Winterizing………pg. 67
e. Seed Harvesting…………………………………………………….pg. 68
f. Seed Packet Definitions…………………………………………pg. 70
g. Harvest Distribution Chart……………………………………..pg. 71
h. Harvest Tracking Form……………………………………………pg. 72
V. FIRST YEAR EVALUATION (2013)…………………………………………………………………pgs. 73-81
A. Overview…………………………………………………………………………………………pg. 73 B. Methods of Evaluation……………………………………………………………………..pg. 78 C. Sample Volunteer Evaluation……………………………………………………………pg. 79
VI. FUTURE CHALLENGES CGCG 2014 & BEYOND.…………………………………………..pg. 82
VII. SUMMARY & RECOMMENDATIONS…………………………………………………………..pg. 83-84
A. Recommendations……………………………………………………………………………..pg. 84
There are many reasons why CGCG exists; however, the primary reason is to build community members’ capacity to grow and cook healthy, affordable food & foster a stronger sense of community through the creation of green, communal spaces. For this reason, CGCG is a garden training center that offers an alternative to grocery store produce showing volunteers that growing your own food is not only the healthier alternative but it is also the economically efficient choice. The goal of the garden is to create a more sustainable Hannibal through building community and growing food. We believe that education is the foundation for sustainable practices. Participation is simple, just volunteer your time and you are rewarded with produce.
To provide common ground for ALL people of Hannibal to not only plant seeds and watch them grow but to educate, encourage, and nurture a strong sense of community through creating green, communal spaces.
Common Ground: A space where fresh organic food – vegetables, herbs, fruit and flowers can be grown and harvested locally so that the people of Hannibal can have a space to grow food and harvest the fruits of their labor. Common Sense: To share gardening knowledge with the people of Hannibal in order to form a more sustainable community including: organic gardening methods, waste reduction & composting, and harvesting & canning. Common Bond: A garden built by the community for the community. To provide a place for social interaction, physical exercise, nutritious organic produce and a sense of well being. A garden that welcomes all people to gather in community—diverse in age, background, and ability—to form relationships as friends and as neighbors, and to foster common bonds, nurturing a sense of common unity.
Let this garden be the first of many in the community that feeds,
sustains, and enriches the community of Hannibal.
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Why Common Ground uses Organic Gardening Methods
There are many reasons why growing organically is a modern trend—no genetic modification of produce (no GMO’s) and no chemicals that are hazardous to your health and to the environment. But the key reason why organic vegetable gardening is so important is the fact that the crops harvested have 50% more nutrients and vitamins compared to those produced by conventional methods. Eating these tasty vegetables can help of people suffering from a number of diseases such as heart disease, high blood pressure and diabetes.
You can buy organic-grown vegetables at your local grocery store. The sad part is that is many cases, these are only around 60% organically sourced. This is why, if you want to eat 100% organically grown vegetables, it is best to grow them yourself. Although CGCG cannot always control how we get the plants—for instance, some plants are donated and treated with chemicals prior to being planted in the garden—we can control how each plant is maintained. As the garden grows and we begin to practice more sustainable gardening strategies, we will harvest our own seeds and plant our own starts for each season. With time and the constant introduction of organic matter, CGCG will be 100% organic.
Organic vegetable are surely very important for many reasons. If you value your good health and that of your family, you will surely want to give them the best food that you can. Add to that the very real money savings (for every $1 spent yield $8 in return) and the satisfaction of having your very own beautiful organic garden, and you can see why more and more people get active and get growing.
For more information Contact:
COMMON GROUND COMMUNITY GARDEN 322 S. 8TH ST. HANNIBAL, MO 63401
( 8TH & WARREN BARRETT DR. ACROSS FROM RECYCLING DROPOFF & STREET DEPT)
HANNIBAL PARKS & RECREATION
PHONE: (573)221-0154 OR CONTACT JESSIE DRYDEN AT (720)560-1122
The primary objective of CGCG regarding program expenditures is to function independently from grant money. The logic for this is three-fold: 1.) to limit expenses by recycling materials, 2.) to encourage community members to participate by in-kind donation, 3.) to illustrate creativity through sustainability—working with the materials that were donated. For the most part, the 2013 year relied on grant money to procure materials that were one-time purchases. These materials include, but are not limited to the shed, waterline, gravel, garden tools, soil, and manure. The bulk of the raised bed construction costs were offset by donations of heat-treated pallets, which made for a tremendous savings in expenditures. Moving forward in for the 2014 growing season, the reliance on said funds will be minimized and used to “fill in the gaps.” By building rain catching systems, CGCG can reduce the amount spent on water. By generating our own compost, CGCG reduces the reliance on store-bought manure. The next few tables offer a summarized and itemized breakdown in expenses for the 2013 season.
o Check chalk board & bulletin board for new communication?
o Sign In & track your time?
o Complete Task?
o Put all tools use in the shed & Clean up?
o Sign out?
o Have fun?
It’s not recreation; it’s RE-Creation! So let’s go play outside!!
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There are many problems that may arise when working with a wide array of
personalities. When conflict occurs especially in a project that relies on people
working together, it is of dire importance that resolution is reached so that the conflict
does not continue to affect volunteers. CGCG has outlined steps for conflict
resolution—finding Common Ground, so to speak. There were instances in the first
year in which these tactics were implemented and worked and occasions in which
resolution could not be met. Sometimes that happens regardless of how the situation is
handled. As long as the volunteers are informed and are aware of their roles and the
garden manager is equipped to handle conflict, then all that can be done is embrace
and resolve conflict as it arises. Below is a list of best practices—the focus here is on
preventative measures.
Ways to Prevent Conflict
1.) Effective Communication-If you don’t understand something or something doesn’t make
sense, don’t be afraid to ask why. Also, if you notice that a garden method isn’t working, speak up
but also provide ideas for resolutions.
2.) Listening-Communication doesn’t work unless we listen to each other.
3.) Cooperation-goal of garden is always to figure out a way for diverse people in the community
to maintain and sustain a garden together. If nature can work together so can we.
When Conflict Arises
Conflict can be beautiful because it can help people create new ideas together. View conflict as
an opportunity and not a setback.
Step 1: Attempt to directly work out issues with the other party. All involved should listen
carefully and with respect.
Step 2: if you can’t resolve it together, ask garden manager for help.
The ability to successfully resolve conflict depends on your ability to:
Manage stress quickly while remaining alert and calm. By staying calm, you can accurately read
and interpret verbal and nonverbal communication.
Control your emotions and behavior. When you’re in control of your emotions, you can
communicate your needs without threatening, frightening, or punishing others.
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Pay attention to the feelings being expressed as well as the spoken words of others.
Be aware of and respectful of differences. By avoiding disrespectful words and actions, you can
almost always resolve a problem faster.
Tips for managing and resolving conflict
Managing and resolving conflict requires the ability to quickly reduce stress and bring your emotions into balance. You can ensure that the process is as positive as possible by sticking to the following guidelines:
Listen for what is felt as well as said. When we listen we connect more deeply to our own needs
and emotions, and to those of other people. Listening also strengthens us, informs us, and
makes it easier for others to hear us when it's our turn to speak.
Make conflict resolution the priority rather than winning or "being right." Maintaining and
strengthening the relationship, rather than “winning” the argument, should always be your first
priority. Be respectful of the other person and his or her viewpoint.
Focus on the present. If you’re holding on to grudges based on past resentments, your ability to
see the reality of the current situation will be impaired. Rather than looking to the past and
assigning blame, focus on what you can do in the here-and-now to solve the problem.
Pick your battles. Conflicts can be draining, so it’s important to consider whether the issue is
really worthy of your time and energy. Maybe you don't want to surrender a parking space if
you’ve been circling for 15 minutes, but if there are dozens of empty spots, arguing over a
single space isn’t worth it.
Be willing to forgive. Resolving conflict is impossible if you’re unwilling or unable to forgive.
Resolution lies in releasing the urge to punish, which can never compensate for our losses and
only adds to our injury by further depleting and draining our lives.
Know when to let something go. If you can’t come to an agreement, agree to disagree. It takes
two people to keep an argument going. If a conflict is going nowhere, you can choose to
disengage and move on.
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The 2013 year was full of trials and errors given the unfamiliar environment and
considering a multitude of variables. CGCG was able to generate an operative list of
best practices for the garden in hopes of better equipping volunteers to perform day-
to-day tasks. An overview of the implemented methods is provided below.
GARDEN TASKS OVERVIEW
Watering
Watering Duties:
o General Rule of Thumb: Water each plant until there is standing water, most plants need
about an inch of water each week. Each 4x4 raised bed requires approximately 4 gallons of
water per day during summer. 4x8 beds require 8 gallons per day.
o planters, herb beds, & marigolds around top of raised beds are watered daily as needed
o water trees 1x per week for the first 3 summers when there is no rain
o flower beds by tree & retaining wall 2-3 times per week as needed
o Refill water bottles for each bed
o WATER RAISED BEDS EVERYDAY AS NEEDED
Water well 1-2 times per week depending on weather, wait 3-5 days after it rains
at least ½.”
If the soil feels dry an inch or so below the surface, it’s time to water your raised
beds. Depending on how dry it is, test moisture in bed with your finger to make
certain bed doesn’t need watering.
Harvesting
Harvesting Duties:
o 3 days a week—Monday, Wednesday, Friday for about 5 people to sign up for each week.
o Distribution will be on Saturday mornings. Wednesday evenings will be added as well for
the time in the season when plants are producing higher yields
Harvesting is a privilege and we want to make sure everyone has the opportunity
to harvest. There will be produce that will need to be eaten the day that is
harvested. Volunteers who harvest will have the choice of eating it or tossing it in
the “green” compost bin.
Weeding
Weeding Duties: *Save weeds and put them in the “green” compost bin*
o Each raised bed needs weeding
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o Weed and mulch flower bed by retaining wall
o Weed cobblestone and throughout gravel
Pruning
Pruning Duties:
o Pick off dead leaves on plants and flowers; put in bucket and transfer to “green” compost
bin.
o Cultivating beds
Take hand tool and break up the tough crust of the soil so plants can breathe. Once
a month, use Plant Tone (plant food) and work it into the soil.
Landscaping
Landscaping Duties:
o Weeding the perimeter of the property
o Trimming the area
o Mowing the lawn
o Finish laying landscaping brick
o Reseeding grass in areas that need it
o Pick up trash on the property and take to dump at the armory
Special Projects
Special Project Duties:
o Construction
Building more raised beds
Painting them white
Help build solar dehydrator
o Pest & Diseased Plant Control
Make & use natural insecticides/pesticides/herbicides on plants
o Produce Preservation
Manage the dehydrator once it is constructed,
Canning classes—monitor what is canned or teach
o Teaching Classes
Volunteer to teach gardening, composting, canning, seed harvesting etc.
o Seed harvesting
Store seeds to reuse for next year’s growing season.
o Help create resource guide for the garden
o Volunteer to be a trainer or to take a lead role in the garden
If you need a task, just ask! There’s always something to do in the garden.
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Garden Task Timeline
*adapted from Community Garden Connections, Antioch University Extension
March April & May May-October
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The foundation of Common Ground Community Garden is positioned around a series
of educational opportunities for the community members. This is focal point for
strategy for not only reaching out to volunteers but to keep them volunteering. It also
has a more subliminal agenda—to increase the knowledge of gardening in the
Hannibal community, to encourage healthier food choices, to nurture social
connections, and to education organic & sustainable alternatives. The 2013 set out to
complete three workshops: organic gardening, composting, & canning; however,
CGCG only fulfilled two of them: organic gardening & composting (sample curriculum in
appendix).
Other educational objectives included training volunteers in each gardening task; give
them educational handouts to reference; and to provide information cards for each
raised bed. All of these were completed but not all were implemented during the
season. For the 2014 season, orientation and volunteer training will be pursued more
extensively, information about the garden will be laminated and posted in key
locations, and the information cards describing the type of plant and plant
maintenance will be laminated and hanging from each raised bed to prevent any
maintenance mishaps due to lack of information.
Part of the education objective is to provide a space for people to
practice gardening and composting. Composting, in particular, can
seem overly complicated to a novice but the ecological benefits
outweigh the amount of effort it might take to change our behavior.
It was the goal of CGCG to provide a space for people to learn to
compost. We have three compost bins for the components of
composting that are labeled, color coordinated, and have training
information on them: Green for Green Matter; Brown for Brown
Matter; Yellow for Manure (which is also a Green Matter). They are
color coordinated and separate bins so beginners can spatial
recognize the distinct components of compost. Next to these bins are
the actual compost areas that use 3 different compost methods so we
can determine the best method for our environment here in
northeast Missouri.
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Compost & Plant Information Cards
(adapted from several composting information guides & referenced in the references)
Green Composting
Materials
vegetable peelings
fruit peelings
grass clippings
coffee grounds
fresh manure
green plant cuttings
annual weeds
young hedge
trimmings
GREEN MATTER
Greens, the nitrogen source,
are colorful and wet. They
provide nutrients and
moisture for the compost
workforce.
Browns, the carbon source, provide energy,
and are also used for absorbing excess
moisture and giving structural strength to
your pile. They help keep the pile porous,
facilitate air-flow and prevent compaction.
BROWN MATTER
Brown Composting
Materials
leaves
hay & straw
paper &
cardboard
woody prunings
eggshells
tea bags
sawdust
The Green Matter information
card is attached to the green
compost bin. It identifies the
types of materials that can be
discarded in the bin and
provides a brief overview of
materials.
The Brown Matter card is
posted on the brown
compost bin. Members of
the community can dump
“browns” in this bin to
use in the compost pile.
The card provides a brief
explanation and lists
brown composting
materials.
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Don't Add
meat & bones
poultry & fish
fatty food waste
whole eggs
dairy products
human & pet feces
pernicious weeds (plants that are destructive to other
plants)
treated wood
DO NOT COMPOST!
What Animal Manure to Add:
Cow
Chicken
Horse
Rabbit
Sheep
DO NOT ADD CAT and DOG
MANURE!!
Manure Materials
Manure is considered a
component of green matter
and is an important part of
creating nutrient-rich soil.
Too much can cause the
plants to overheat, so it is
important to keep it separate
and add it into compost as
needed.
There are materials that
cannot be composted the way
brown & green matter can.
They require a more complex
system and should be done by
someone with advanced
composting skills. CGCG
chooses to keep it simple, to
provide a solid foundation for
composting, and give step by
step instructions to assist
volunteers to continue to
grow in their knowledge to
eventually become more
advanced in their abilities.
34
Composting is a natural process. Organic materials such as leaves, grass, and
vegetable scraps are broken down by microorganisms, forming a rich soil-like
substance called compost or humus.
Organic materials: A good mix consists of three parts "browns" (materials such as
dead leaves that are high in carbon) and one part "greens" (such as fresh grass
clippings and garden prunings that are high in nitrogen).
Moisture: Composting materials should feel moist but not overly soggy.
Temperature: Compost should feel warm to the touch except in the cold winter
months.
Air: To prevent unpleasant odors, turn compost regularly to ensure that air is
reaching the center of the pile.
Making Great Compost
Compost Problems
There are several different
processes for making great
compost. This information
card lists some basic
information for volunteers to
reference.
When learning how to
compost, it is important to be
prepared for problems that
might arise in your first few
attempts. This list provides
information on symptoms and
solutions for typical
composting issues.
35
Plant Information Cards (Samples)
36
It is essential for community members and the neighbors around the garden site to
remain invested in the project. Therefore, outreach is a critical part of creating a
sustainable community garden. Common Ground Community Garden began by
reaching out to local government agencies and was fortunate enough to connect with
the Hannibal Department of Parks & Recreation. This relationship was mutually
beneficial—Parks & Recreation had financial and material resources while CGCG
provided the human and intellectual capital (through Common Sense for an
Uncommon Bond) to jumpstart the project.
With the initial logistics established, CGCG then created a Community Advisory
Committee for the project composed of community leaders representing individuals &
families, nonprofits, & business. After discussion of strategy, CGCG moved forward
with community outreach separated into three sections: individuals & families, social
clubs, schools, & nonprofit organizations, and government agencies & local businesses.
Individuals & Families: CGCG is intended for all people in Hannibal and we are committed
to creating an environment that is welcoming and encourages all people to participate. In
order to reach out to individuals & families, the garden itself is set up for people of all
ages—from children to elderly, from capable to handi-capable. Throughout the season,
we had retired couples and individuals, entire families, and individuals that needed to
fulfill community service. There were several people from the neighborhood that
participated—and several that donated materials citing that they enjoyed seeing the lot
transformed into something beautiful.
There were several ways CGCG used to reach out into the community: door-to-door
Parks & Recreation newsletters. These seemed to be effective measures that will be
expanded on in the 2014 season.
Social clubs, Schools, & Nonprofit Organizations: Throughout the season, CGCG spoke
with several organizations: Families & Communities Together, Rotary Club, Lions Club,
Hannibal Women’s Club, Hannibal Gardening Club, and The Desperate Gardeners Club.
Also CGCG inspired Eugene Field Elementary to grow their own garden using recycled
materials. CGCG also acted as an outdoor classroom for homeschooled students.
Local Businesses: CGCG, through media outreach and general word-of-mouth received
material donations from BASF, Hannibal Homestore, & Miller Distributing.
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Rising social awareness in urban cities related to the decline in public open space has caused many scholars and community groups to reevaluate the urban planning of concrete jungles. Cities that were once savannahs have now been paved over by rock and asphalt, stripping the urban environment of its natural ecology—replacing vibrant greenspace with a dull and neutralizing gray. Population density in cities is a contributing factor to this movement, as the need to replace single-family homes with multiple family high-rises outweighs to accommodate urban growth outweighs the need for public greenspace (Byrne & Sipe, 2010).
Although rural communities, like Hannibal, Missouri, have seen a steady decline in population over the last ten years, the need to create green public open spaces remains the same. Surrounded by farmland, the urban expansion of Hannibal to the west and north of town threatens the open space, as this land is replaced by new homes and corporate businesses. This expansion is also creates movement away from the Mississippi River and the historical downtown district. But these changes in landscape only challenge the Department of Parks & Recreation to be more creative with the approaches to preserve greenspace within city limits.
Greenspaces are not only important for the natural environment of cities, but they play a critical role in making cities more sustainable (Byrne & Sipe, 2010). According to Byrne & Sipe in their study Green and Open Space Planning for Urban Consolidation (2010), the benefits of urban planning “include nature’s services/ecological benefits (e.g. preserving biodiversity), social benefits (e.g. socialisation and healthy living) and economic benefits (e.g. tourism). It is the objective of Common Ground Community Garden to illustrate how these benefits are translated in a rural environment. Whereas the previous section discussed the social benefits of urban greening, this section focuses primarily on the ecological and economical advantages of the community garden project. Located on 322 S. 8th Street, Common Ground Community Garden is deeply rooted in Hannibal’s industrial district and uniquely planted in a lower-income area. The lot has been transformed many times over the years and has been many different businesses—not all environmentally friendly. Therefore, CGCG is composed of a series of raised beds with the intention of restoring ecological balance to the lot and bringing in as much nutrient-rich organic matter to purify toxins from the remaining soil for planting in-ground. This might seem lofty to some, but to CGCG it just requires a little effort & a lot of creativity.
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Reclaim
Common Ground Community Garden started out as an idea—to provide a space
where the community can learn to grow their own food, increase access to healthy
food, to connect and socialize, and to provide a beautiful space to learn and build
skills, creating opportunities for empowerment and self-sufficiency through
gardening. This idea was put into practice when CGCG was given a space, known as
lot #25 of the flood buy-out—a piece of property that was considered flood plain
without ever experiencing flood water.
The lot itself had been home to various businesses, some in which coal was dumped
making it almost impossible to plant in the ground but has since lay vacant and
neglected—a blemish that many people drove by daily and to some, was the
eyesore in their backyards. Part of the space had been graveled over and because
of the close proximity to the recycling area and as a result of being a windy
location, covered in trash. But what others would have deemed a hopeless & waste
of space, CGCG saw a blank canvass—an opportunity to recreate.
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Recreate
Community gardens are not only considered a way of increasing biodiversity in a
community, but gardens are also a way of beautifying and enhancing urban areas,
of self-expression and reflection, and encourage the idea that gardening can be
fun. That is why the motto of CGCG is “It’s not recreation; it’s RE-creation. So let’s
go play outside.”
The first step in the process of recreating the site is to design a layout for the
garden, to identify parameters, and to begin creating functional uses to maximize
the space provided. This base map provided a foundation for development.
For the first year, CGCG determined that the best method would be to start small,
giving room for growth over the next few years with the hopes that the concept
would not only take root in the community but flourish. The lot size is important for
designing a layout—120 ft x 145 ft—which gives the garden a lot of room for
growth & further development.
The next step is to determine the materials used for the raised beds. CGCG is
economically conscious and desired to use as many recycled materials as possible to
eliminate the expenses for lumber, which can be quite expensive. The garden was
41
fortunate to have the services of an expert carpenter volunteered and after some
consideration, a plan for transforming heat-treated pallets (or skids) was created.
Over the course of a month, around 30 raised beds were developed using recycled
pallets. With a little creativity and some paint, the garden began to take shape.
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Revive
Most cities want to invest in repairing degraded parts of the cities to revitalize
commerce and increase tourism. Revitalize has become the operative politically
correct term for giving life to the economic environment. CGCG chooses to breathe
new life into the community through reviving our sense of collective social identity
through the re-creation of community gardens.
Part of the “revival” is to take unnatural gray space and add a little natural color.
Not only is this visibly striking but it inspires the community to consider what empty
space could be—it gives perspective and stimulates creativity. Not only is CGCG
resourceful with recycled materials, but even the planting of the garden has an
artistic touch.
Common Ground
Community Garden uses
plants as their palette and
encourages creativity
with nature, reclaiming
empty lots, recreating the
space, and reviving the
landscape through
cooperating with nature.
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Part of the fun in building a community garden is in taking junk materials and
transforming them into planters. This is not only economic but it reduces the amount of
garbage thrown into landfills as well as illustrating what anyone can do with just a little
ingenuity.
Common Ground Community Garden used a combination of natural and unnatural
materials to recycle and renovate. From tree trunks to claw foot tubs, some were
donated and some even scavenged from the recycling drop-off across the street—but
all, nonetheless, were re-created into function works of art. This section is dedicated to
demonstrating the limitless possibilities of creative recycling.
This turn of the century claw foot tub was
rescued from a burnt down house prior to
demolition. It was converted into a flower
planter and it located in the center of the
garden. It was painted with a geometric
design but the smoke stain from the fire
remains intact to give it some personality.
Shoes were used throughout the
summer with Kids in Motion, a local
nonprofit that works with at-risk
youth. They came to the garden for
volunteer work and got their hands
dirty with a little creative planting.
While some took their shoe planters
home, others decided to decorate the garden with them.
44
This was once a shelf in a 100-year-
old brooding house. It was donated
and transformed into a raised bed
for tomatoes & herbs. It is also
located on the brick pathway
making it handicap accessible.
The table and chairs were abandoned on the property. The wood
was weathered and damaged. Instead of using it for seating, we
flipped the table upside down, added sides, and created a
planter. Each chair was converted into a planter as well—kept the
cushions to retain moisture to prevent them from drying out.
After a big storm went through town
thousands of trees were uprooted. To
reuse the materials we converted this tree
stump into a flower & herb planter and
gave it a face just for fun.
Again, we reuse tree branches & trees destroyed by a
storm to create natural fencing for the garden. No
permanent structures are allowed onsite, so using natural
materials allows CGCG to have fencing & still adhere to
government guidelines.
WATTLE FENCE
45
There is a technique to building raised beds using heat-treated pallets. The process
is simple as long as you practice patience and safety. Some general tips: keep them
3-4 feet in width and no more than 10ft in length. Make height at least 2.5-3ft for
accessibility.
Step One:
Start with a pallet and saw it in half. Make sure you see an HT marked on the pallet so you know it
is heat-treated. As you can see there is a 2x4 runner in the middle. You want to cut so that one
side of the pallet is still connected to the runner.
Step Two:
The half of the pallet that is not
attached to the 2x4 runner needs to
have a 2x4 cut to attach to it. Make
sure to measure as accurately as
possible so that the cut is aligned
and that the sides are flush. Take
another pallet & repeat these steps.
Step Three:
Take the four cut pallet pieces and
step them up in a square. Cut four
2x4 pieces to fit into the edges of
the pallets to reinforce the raised
bed. Once this is done, connect the
four sides and line with
landscaping fabric.
46
General Tips 1-2 inches of green matter mixture or “greens” such as vegetable peelings & other kitchen scraps,
grass, manure, or coffee grounds Next add 1 to 2 inches of brown matter mixture or “browns” such as leaves, straw, newspaper,
cardboard, sawdust, tea bags or mulch.
Alternate the green and brown material to the top and let settle. Then add more to fill raised bed to
the top.
Finish with soil & manure mixture for planting. Keep in mind that the pile will continue to compost
during the season & more will need to be added to fill each bed.
This method takes about 6 months to a year and will compost during growing season.
After the raised beds are constructed, they are lined with landscaping mesh and
ready to fill. Since the beds are several feet in height, using filler that is normally
tossed aside or in the trash is a perfect way to save money. Instead of filling each
bed to the brim with soil and manure, each raised bed is converted into a compost
bin—making it a no-till, no-dig sustainable & simple gardening method. CGCG was
able to use all of the leaves raked on the lot prior to construction to fill the beds as
well as mulched trees from a storm donated by local tree service companies. The
recycling drop-off across the street from the garden provided easy access for
compostable materials such as cardboard & newspaper. All-in-all, CGCG was able
to minimize soil & manure expenses by maximizing natural, compostable resources.
47
(adapted from Community Garden Connections, Antioch university)
Dividing raised beds into square foot sections is the easiest way to play raised beds
at CGCG—it helps to determine what goes where, how much space it needs, and
how many can be planted in each bed. This way volunteers can give each plant the
correct amount of space, maximizing the raised bed and the harvest by giving it
necessary room to grow. Because the raised beds at the garden are 2.5 to 3 feet
high, the beds drain moisture a little faster than being rooted directly in the
ground. For planting purposes, plant more towards the center because the edges
dry out faster. You can also train the plants to grow towards the center by watering
them in the middle—that way the roots grow inwards and may prevent the beds
from drying out so quickly.
Most of the beds at CGCG are 4x4 raised beds although there are a few 4x8s. Below
is an example of how a 4x4ft bed should be divided for planting.
The information card that comes with each plant or that is located on the back of
the seed packet indicates the amount of space needed for the plant for optimal
growth. Sometimes you can overlook the directions for row spacing, but when
starting out it is important to follow instructions and then make changes based on
the results of trial and error.
1 foot
1 foot
48
Plant Spacing:
12 inches = 1 per sq. foot
6 inches = 4 per sq. foot
4 inches = 9 per sq. foot
3 inches = 16 per sq. foot
3ft by 6ft raised bed (taken from CGC Antioch University)
49
Creative Trellising
Another example of maximizing space is by creative trellising of the garden.
Certain plants require a little vertical help for growing—cucumbers, tomatoes, pole
beans, peas, melons, squash, sweet potatoes, grapes, & berries. There are a couple
of ways CGCG used trellises in the garden, transforming someone else’s garbage
into an imaginative trellis for planting.
The basic structure used
throughout the garden
for trellising is a teepee.
An old ladder was
donated, cut in half, and
used for cucumbers to
climb. We added some
twine to help encourage
vertical growth. For
tomatoes, we used
branches to create a
teepee for trellising.
Using some lumber
and donated wire
fencing, horizontal
trellises were
designed for pole
beans & cucumbers
to climb.
Use Your
Imagination!
A folding awning
was destroyed after
a storm and the legs
were donated to the
garden. We created
4 trellises for plants.
Even
sunflowers
were
interplanted
for vertical
trellises…
50
(adapted from Organicgardening.com & http://counties.cce.cornell.edu/chemung/agriculture/publications/companion-
planting.pdf)
Companion planting is an excellent way of creating a garden that not only looks
interesting and beautiful but that is sustainable—using nature to work with nature
to grow a healthy, diverse garden. Plants can work together to be mutual
beneficial—feeding each other nutrients as well as warding often pests. Below are
some examples of the benefits of companion planting.
Companions help each other grow—Tall plants, for example, provide shade for sun-
sensitive shorter plants.
Companions use garden space efficiently—Vining plants cover the ground, upright
plants grow up. Two plants in one patch.
Companions prevent pest problems—Plants like onions repel some pests. Other plants
can lure pests away from more desirable plants.
Companions attract beneficial insects—Every successful garden needs plants that
Broccoli Brussels Cabbage Cauliflower Corn Kale Potatoes
52
After choosing what to grow in the community garden the next step is determining
when to start growing them. Knowing when to grow your vegetables is critical to a
successful garden. Depending on the geographic region, crops are planted relative
to the particular area influenced by several factors including temperature, weather
pattern, and time of year. Northeast Missouri is considered zone 5(b) for planting.
53
GARDEN PLANTING CHART NE MISSOURI
Crop Days to
Maturity
Spring
Planting Dates
Fall Planting
Dates
Seed/Plants Distance
Between
Rows
Distance
Between
Plants
Depth to
Plant
Asparagus 2nd year Apr 5 - 25 50 roots 3 to 5 ft. 1½ to 2 ft. 6 in.
Bean, bush 50-60 Apr 25 - May 30
July 25-Aug 5 ½ lb. 3 ft. 2 to 4 in. 1-1½ in.
Bean, pole 65-75 May 10 - 20 ½ lb. 3 ft. 6 to 12 in. 1-1½ in. Bean, lima 65-75 May 10 -25 1 lb. 2 to 2½ ft. 3 to 4 in. 1-1½ in. Beet 55-65 Apr 1 - 15 Aug 1 - Sept
25 1 oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 2 in. 1 in.
Broccoli 60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 5 Sept. 25 - 30 100 plants 2½ ft. 14 to 18 in.
-
Cabbage 65-80 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 -30 100 plants 2½ ft. 12 in. -
Cantaloupe 80-90 May 10 - 20
1 oz. 4 to 6 ft. 3½ to 4 ft. 1½ in Carrot 70-80 Mar 25 - Apr
10 Sept 20 -30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 2 to 3 in. ½ in.
Cauliflower 55-60 Apr 1 - 20 Sept 20 - 30 100 plants 3 ft. 12 to 18 in.
-
Collard 55-70 Mar 20 - Apr 10
½ oz. 2½ ft. 8 to 16 in. ½ in.
Corn 80-100 May 1 - July 20
¼ lb. 3 to 3½ ft. 12 to 18 in.
2 in.
Cucumber 60-65 May 10 - 30 1 oz. 3½ to 5 ft. 3 to 4 ft. 1½ in. Eggplant 75-90 May 15 - 25 50 plants 3 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. - Kale 50-70 Mar 25 - Apr 5 ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in.
Kohlrabi 50-70 Apr 1 - 15 Sept 20 - 25 ½ oz. 3 ft. 10 in. ½ in. Lettuce 60-85 Apr 1 - May 15 Sept 1 - 15 ½ oz. 2 to 2½ ft. 10 to 12
in. ½ in.
Mustard 40-50 Mar 25 - May 1
Aug 1 - 30 ½ oz. 2 ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Okra 55-60 May 10 - 25 1 oz. 3 to 3½ ft. 6 in. 1 in. Onion (mature)
100-120 Mar 25 - Apr 15
Sept. 1-Dec. 31
300 plants or ½ gal. sets
1 to 2 ft. 3 to 4 in. ¾ in.
Peas, garden
60-80 Mar 25 - Apr 10
1 lb. 2½ ft. 1 in. 1½-2 in.
Peas, southern
60-70 May 1 - 15 - ½ lb. 3 ft. 4 to 6 in. 1½-2 in.
Pepper 65-80 May 15 - 30 - 50 plants 2½ ft. 1½ to 2 ft. - Potato, Irish 70-90 Apr 1 - 15 1 peck 2½ to 3 ft. 10 to 14
in. 5 in.
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Potato, sweet
90-150 May 15-June 5
- 100 plants 3½ ft. 12 in. -
Radish 25-30 Mar 25 - May 1
Aug 1- 20 1 oz. 1½ ft. 1 in. ½ in.
Spinach 40-45 Apr 1 - 20 Aug 10 - Sept 20
1 oz. 1½ to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ¾ in.
Squash, bush
50-55 May 15 - 30 1 oz. 3 to 4 ft. 2 ft. 1½-2 in.
squash, winter
85-90 May 15 - 30 - ½ oz. 5 ft. 3 ft. 1½-2 in.
Tomato 70-85 May 15 - 30 50 plants 3 to 4 ft. 2½ to 3 ft. - Turnip 45-65 Mar 25 - May
1 Aug 5 - Sept
20 ½ oz. 1 to 2 ft. 1 to 2 in. ½ in.
Watermelon 80-90 May 10 - 20 1 oz. 10 ft. 8 to 10 ft. 1½ in.
What to Grow?
When to Grow?
Varieties that are Easy to
Grow?
Vegetables & Fruits that
have the Highest Value?
Amount of Space
Available?
Intended Use of Produce?
Nutritional & Dietary Needs of
Volunteers?
Favorite Fruits & Vegetables of
Volunteers?
Grow from Seed or Buy from Store?
How Fruits or Vegetables Grow
Best?
Can Vegetable be Planted Once or
Multiple Times?
55
Garden Site Considerations
Garden maintenance for CGCG is influenced by the location of the garden site.
Using the site consideration model provided by Antioch University & Community
Garden Connections, an evaluation of the location based on the outcomes of the
first year revealed the environmental obstacles that affect the efficacy of day-to-
day garden maintenance.
Location: 322 S. 8th St. (8th & Warren Barrett Dr.)
Space: The total lot size is 120ft x 145ft. The majority of raised beds are 4ft x 4ft
with the exception of five 4ft x 8ft beds. There are at least 30 raised beds currently
onsite and there is more than enough space to double the number of beds.
Light: The garden receives full sun from sunrise to sunset. The only shade is
provided by a tree located in the back northeast corner of the lot.
Slope/Exposure: The ground is relatively level. Holes in the ground were filled in
and part of the lot was graveled. The gravel could be more level but it is sufficient
and will smooth out over time.
Drainage: Adding gravel to the location and having beds raised 2.5 – 3ft off the
ground helps with water drainage. There are a few areas with poor drainage, but
they do not negatively affect the plants in the raised beds.
Accessibility: Lot is an open public space. The creation of a wattle fence provided
necessary parameters—giving the garden some shape. The gravel, although a little
rocky, makes it wheelchair and walker accessible. There is ample parking and it is
within walking distance from downtown. The garden is located in an area and is set
up in a way to maximize potential participation. Width and height of raised beds
makes it accessible to a variety of people with physical needs. The water & tools are
onsite. Water has open access while the shed is secured by lock and key which is
kept by the garden manager and Parks & Recreation to secure tools & materials.
There is seating available: park bench, designated seating area in northwest corner
of the lot, a bench by the water spigot, and a few chairs under the tree. There is an
issue with shade—which is important since the location has ample sun.
Water: Part of the grant money was used to tap into the waterline that was already
onsite. A water spigot was added for access and is located near the center of the
garden. Hoses make it possible to water the far corners of the lot when needed.
56
Soil: The soil is rocky and is embedded with coal. The majority of the lot cannot be
planted with the exception of the northeastern corners by the tree and along the
retaining wall. The soil here has been composting with leaves from the tree, making
it suitable for flowers.
Wildlife: Although the site is near forest, the industrial area keeps the majority of
wildlife at bay. Feral cats have been attracted to the garden because of the birds
(which CGCG welcomes to combat pests). Mice have the potential to burrow and
make a nest in the raised beds. CGCG does not recommend growing corn, as that is
most likely the plant that would attract raccoons. With the close proximity to the
Mississippi River, frogs have been onsite. Most wildlife works to defend the garden
in some way and if there is a problem, CGCG allows nature to restore balance
naturally.
Safety: The location is in an industrial area and is very open. There is always the
potential for vandalism, but this was not experienced in the first year. It is a few
blocks from the police station and has a consistent police presence in the area. It is
not recommended to be onsite in the dark and the hours are posted at the garden.
Sustainability/Availability: The lot is secured for as long as there is interest in a
garden. It is under the management of the Parks & Recreation department and will
be made available to CGCG for as long as it benefits the community. Aesthetic
values of the garden assist in attracting volunteers and other community members
to the space—creating a communal space for events, to interact with diverse
community members. Communication can be improved upon—making sure
information is clearly and plainly explained. The garden could use more signs—
permanent signs and information on rules and how to participate. Using recycled
materials, harvesting seeds, and building rain catchers will assist in the sustainability
of the garden. Composting offers a constant flow of top soil & further engages the
community to participate as well as continuing to offer education opportunities
though workshops.
57
Garden maintenance for raised beds takes some adjusting, if you are used to
gardening in-ground. But for most urban gardens, growing in raised beds has
become an art form in its own right and maintenance, a scientific experiment. At
CGCG the first year was an experiment, considering the different variables in play
and how they affected the outcome in crop growth and harvest. The next section is
dedicated to presenting the best practices and the most sustainable practices for
maintaining a natural ecosystem at Common Ground.
Maintenance Guidelines
Maintaining a garden is different every year—that’s part of the fun in garden—the sheer
unpredictability of Mother Nature. Although you cannot predict the outcome, you can do
your best to prepare. CGCG observed and recorded best practices for the community
garden for watering, weeding & mulching, pruning, harvesting, and winterizing raised
beds with the intention of making sure each volunteer is accurately informed on the
maintenance strategies that are customized for this specific location.
If only Mother Nature rained about an inch to two inches per week, we wouldn’t need to
water. Since we can’t control rain, we try to manage the garden either by catching rain
water or by infusing tap water with compost to decrease the effects of chlorinated water
on plants and adding nutrients to the soil. This method can also help with nutrient
deficiencies and fungus on plants.
Compost Tea
By using compost tea to replace chemical-based fertilizers, pesticides, and fungicides, you
can garden safer and be more protective of the environment. Some recipes call for
aeration and a pump and other supplies, but at Common Ground we use 5 gallon buckets
and bags of compost. Lining the bottoms of the buckets with compost, we fill them up with
water—it stirs itself—and ends up looking like muddy Mississippi water. We let it sit in the
sun and soak overnight and then watered in the morning. We also add bone meal, plant
food, and blood meal to the water at times to expedite the feeding process.
Compost tea:
Increases plant growth
Provides nutrients to plants and soil
Provides beneficial organisms
Helps to suppress diseases
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Replaces toxic garden chemicals
Plant Food Types
Bone Meal: All natural source of organic phosphorus and nitrogen. Blood Meal: Safe source of organic nitrogen. Naturally produces more vigorous plants with richer,
greener leaves. A time proven remedy for sickly plants. Fish Emulsion: A decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish. It is high in nitrogen, so you want to
be careful. The fishy smell goes away after a day or two. Manures: commonly available manures include horse, cow, pig, chicken, and sheep products. Not
all manure is alike, or equally effective.
Watering at CGCG is a delicate process. Watering deep raised beds involves adding as
many nutrients as possible to the plant—the fastest way being through the water. In raised
bed gardening, nutrients are washed out with watering whereas in-ground gardens are
rooted into a balanced and sustainable supply of nutrients, which is why it is so important
for CGCG to use compost tea instead of watering directly from a hose.
During the peak of the summer heat, some planters need to be watered twice daily to stay
hydrated. Once a plant goes into distress—especially in severe cases—it is highly unlikely
to nurture them back to health. CGCG recycled wine bottles and other glass bottles, filled
them with water and turned them upside down in the beds to help with moisture control.
Roots will seek out water. Watering too much encourages shallow roots, whereas watering
as needed promotes deeper root growth as the plant searches for water. For most raised
beds, when the temperature rises, the best practice for watering is 4 gallons for each 4x4
bed and 8 gallons for each 4x8 bed. Some general tips for CGCG:
Water enough so that there is some standing water. It is recommended each plant
get about an inch everyday in peak summer season.
If you have doubts for watering, use your index finger to feel for moisture. If you
feel that the soil is wet at least an inch down, do not water.
If it rains an inch in hot weather, do not water until the next day. If it rains in cooler
weather, skip a day before watering again.
For new seed or plant starts, use a lighter spray or a showerhead watering can so as
to not wash away seeds or damage new growth.
Water slowly so that it has time to be absorbed by the soil.
Water towards the root of the plant—some plants like cucumbers and tomatoes
do not like to get leaves wet. This could cause disease as well.
Water in the early morning or later at night after sun starts to go down on a hot
day to prevent water evaporating.
59
There are many benefits to mulching a garden, including:
Keeps the soil warmer to extend growing season Reduces the growth of weeds
Helps to regulate the soil temperature Retains moisture
Adds nutrients with the addition of organic matter Helps prevent soil hardening
Decelerates soil erosion May prevent certain plant diseases
CGCG used straw, leaves, & wood mulch around plants and flowers primarily to retain
moisture and reduce growth of invasive weeds. The straw was donated by a community
member and the wood mulch was brought by Wilson’s Tree Service. The wood mulch was
composed of branches that had fallen after a storm—since there was an abundance the
tree service was more than happy to drop off a few loads of mulch to the garden. Although
the mulch was untreated, it was perfect for lining pathways and mulching flower beds. For
vegetables, using straw mulch is the best method for mulching around plants—but is not
the only method for mulching a garden.
Ways to Mulch (adapted from CGC Antioch University):
Straw
Apply 4-5 inches thick
Straw lets a lot of light through – not the best at weed suppression
Provides an attractive habitat for small rodents, which can then
become pests
Decomposes over the course of 1-2 years
Grass clippings
Apply 2-3 inches thick
Make sure grass hasn’t been treated
with fertilizers or pesticides
Let it dry first before applying – otherwise it
will create a thick mat
Decomposes quickly
60
Wood Chips
Apply 2-3 inches thick, over a layer of cardboard or
newspaper
Better option for paths than vegetable beds
Tie up a lot of nitrogen from your soil in order to break
down over the course of 1-2 years depending on the size
Chopped Leaves
Apply 2-3 inches thick
Tend to acidify the soil – good for
some acid loving plants
Decomposes quickly
Compost
Apply 3-4 inches thick
Finished compost is free of weed seeds
Adds nutrients and valuable organic matter to soil
Black Plastic
Very effective at moisture retention and weed
suppression
Somewhat tedious to secure and plant through
Doesn’t provide any organic matter to the soil, and
becomes problematic when it tears and becomes
trash in the soil
Cardboard/Newspaper
Apply ½ inch thick under another mulch
or pin down to secure in place
Remove any stickers and tape before using
Decomposes over the course of 1-2 years
61
Hay
Hay contains grass and weed seeds, so beware!
Not advisable to use as mulch.
When the seeds that are planted in a garden begin to germinate and grow, sometimes it is
difficult to identify if what is growing is the plant you planted or the one Mother Nature
did. CGCG wants all volunteers to have the knowledge and confidence to determine what
a weed is and what it is not. From observation in the first year of CGCG, weeds can be
beautiful—that’s part of their allure. But what they do for the plants you want growing can
be detrimental to your garden, taking away nutrients and water from the plants that need
it. Weeds tend to grow quickly and indiscriminately—the most common for northeast
Missouri and for the garden location are:
Creeping Bentgrass Large Crabgrass Kentucky Bluegrass
There are several reasons why weeds grew in the raised beds at the community garden—
hay, straw, & mulch used to fill raised beds and mulch around plants contained weed
seeds, some weeds were found already growing in donated bags of soil, while other weeds
were planted naturally with seeds being carried by the wind. Regardless of how they take
root in the garden, they need to be removed before they get out of control. Some weeds
are shallow and easy to pull up while others are not. With strong root systems (perhaps
62
these weeds should be used for soil erosion?), the best practice for removal is to get your
hands dirty and dig it out at the root.
Difference between Annual & Perennial Weeds
Plants need to breathe, and pruning helps remove excess branches, promotes air
circulation, and keeps plants from becoming too crowded. Pruning also stimulates growth
of some herbs, and helps plants channel energy towards fruit production by getting rid of
“dead weight.” The object of growing fruits and vegetables is to produce fruits and
vegetables. Removing branches and stems that are not flowering and producing fruit,
pinching back flower heads that are done growing, and cutting back herbs that have
begun to flower before they go to seed nurtures healthy plants, a bountiful harvest, and a
longer growing season.
Annuals complete their growing cycle within a year and
spread throughout the garden by seed. Annuals generally
have a shallow root system and are easy to pull, but they
are abundant. One annual weed plant is capable of
producing over 10,000 seeds!
Consider flowering weeds a last warning – it will only be a
matter of days before they go to seed!
Weed whacking or mowing is effective for annual weeds as
long as you are careful to not let them flower and go to
seed. Near the end of the season plants are well adapted to
put all of their energy into flowering, even if they are only
an inch tall!
Be patient and persistent. Not only are certain seeds viable
for over 100 years, but they can travel long distances by
wind and on animals. Weeds will always be part of your
garden.
Perennials grow and bloom over the spring and
summer, die back in autumn and winter, and return the
next spring from their root stock. They can also spread
by seed, but more often become a nuisance by their
creeping root system. They tend to be more difficult to
get rid of than annual weeds.
Dig deep! Many perennial weeds can develop deep and
extensive root systems and/or taproots.
Removing only the top of the plant can actually
exacerbate the problem. Plants will be signaled to put
more energy into the roots and come back with a
vengeance.
Be thorough. New plants can emerge from even tiny
root segments left in the soil.
(Adapted from CGC Antioch University)
63
(Adapted from Green Action Centre http://greenactioncentre.ca/content/why-should-i-compost/)
There are many reasons to compost and a variety of ways to get started.
Composting helps you save money, save resources, improve your soil and reduce
your impact on the environment. Regardless of your motivations, composting is a
mutually beneficial for you and for the environment.
Infusing compost into your garden soil fertilizes and feeds your soil with a diversity of
nutrients and microorganisms that will encourage plant growth. Chemical fertilizers, on
the other hand, provide a quick burst of a limited number of nutrients that can wash away
into our rivers and streams. Compost also increases soil stability, improves drainage and
helps retain moisture.
Creating good, nutrient-rich compost is just a matter of education and practice. That is
why CGCG built a compost training center—to give the community a place to toss kitchen
scraps and encourage them to compost in their own homes. If they do not have the space
to compost—they can just bring their materials to the community garden and place them
in the correct color-coordinated bin. CGCG was able to create three completed compost
piles, using three different methods, to sit over the winter for usage in the spring.
SAVE MONEY!
No need to buy chemical fertilizers. Compost is free!
Compost helps to retain soil moisture so you water less.
The nutrients from compost are not washed away by rainfall. No waste!
SAVE RESOURCES!
Keeps a valuable resource out of the landfill.
Waste less water since compost helps with moisture retention.
Reduce civic costs for waste collection and thereby reduce fuel use.
Extend the life of landfills. Remember residential waste is 40% compostable materials.
IMPROVE YOUR SOIL!
Compost returns valuable nutrients to the soil to help maintain soil quality and fertility.
Compost is a mild, slow release, natural fertilizer that won’t burn plants like chemical fertilizers.
It also improves texture and air circulation for heavier soils and helps to increase the water retention of sandy soils.
Provides organic matter and nutrients which will improve plant growth and lead to better yields.
1. Reduce Carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions from vehicles used to transport waste
2. Organics in landfills break down anaerobically (without oxygen) to produce methane gas, a greenhouse gas 21 times more
harmful than CO2.
Reduce the impact of chemical fertilizers that runoff into our rivers, lakes and streams.
Buried organics can react with metals in the landfill to produce toxic leachate, a potential source of groundwater pollution.
Common Ground Community Garden is committed to making Hannibal a more
sustainable community. By raising awareness, holding composting workshops, and
providing a space for members of the community to try it out, CGCG continues to promote
and encourage people to reduce the amount of waste and their carbon footprint.
65
Home Remedies for Fungus and Pests
Fungus Control
Best remedy is to prune diseased stems and branches from the plant. Some experts recommend
getting rid of all diseased plants, but that’s not always the best practice since the plant can still
yield a decent harvest. In Common Ground this year we had to deal with septoria fungus from
plants getting too much rain/water and not enough sun because we planted early (May 18th). We
were able to control the spread of this disease and our plants have recovered. We also had
blossom-end rot (BER), and the fruit started rotting on the bottom. This is not a fungus but lack of
calcium. It can be prevented by planting an eggshell in the hole before planting the plant or seed.
We were able to restore the health of our plants by feeding it with bone meal and compost tea.
Apple Cider Vinegar - Use 1-2 tbls per gallon of water for a mild fungicide or acidic liquid fertilizer. Like alcohol can be a natural herbicide if too much is used in tea. Most white vinegars are made from petroleum products. Apple cider vinegar can contain up to 30 trace elements.
Corn meal - Use as a top dressing or in a tea for fungal control.
Compost teas - This multi-purpose fluid can contain beneficial microbes and soluble nutrients that can be a mild fungicide and disease controller.
Baking Soda/ Potassium Bicarbonate Fungus Control Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of baking soda and 1 tablespoon of horticultural oil into one gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch and other fungal diseases. Avoid over-using or pouring on the soil. Potassium bicarbonate is a good substitute for baking soda. Citrus oil and molasses can be used instead of horticultural oil.
Insect Control
The best remedy is to keep a close eye on your garden and hand pick insects off plants. But there
are many natural ways to protect your garden from those pesky pests.
Some native Missouri tactics for pest control include: Attracting birds and ladybugs will help get
rid of caterpillars and aphids, planting in tires or using artificial mulch (less organic) to get rid of
squash bugs, using flour and cayenne pepper for bugs, and using wet walnut branches or mulched
walnut leaves around plants for aphids. Other natural ways for insect control include:
Companion planting and intense gardening - you can plant certain plants close together to help fight diseases, control pests, or even improve the soil for its neighboring plants' health.
Garlic, onions - all alliums are great for killing soft body insects. Flying insects can be paralyzed by direct hits. Also a great fungicide. Best if crushed or liquefied in a vegetable oil tea. Use several cloves of garlic per gallon of water.
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Hot peppers - fresh or powder is great for repelling rabbits and other pests. Many soft
body insects can be killed by its acidic "burning" effect. Best when mixed with garlic sprays applications.
Canola oil, vegetable oils - mineral oils work also, but they are made from petroleum products. Oil sprays suffocate soft body insects. Don't use too much on sensitive plants. May burn leaves. Don't use no more than 1 cup of oil per gallon of water. Ground cloves - great repellant and can kill flying insects. Use several tblsp per gallon of water.
Japanese beetles - these pests are best controlled by killing their larva during the winter and early spring seasons with mild topsoil tilling, or using milky spore or beneficial nematode soil applications. During the warm season, the best way to control them is with traps. Simple inexpensive traps can be made by placing several small open milk jugs, cans, or buckets all over your garden. Inside the cans place some rotten fruit or fruit cocktail in 1/2 can of water with 1-2 tbls of liquid soap and 1-2 tblsp of canola oil. You can also add dry molasses or liquid molasses for extra microbial power in the soapy tea mixture to attract and kill them. Also planting a border planting of buckwheat will attract these pests away from your crops.
Diatomeous earth - this natural powdery substance will poke insect bodies and dehydrate many soft body soil organisms, but not earthworms. It can kill bees if direct contact of a spray mixture. This can be used on the soil or sprayed on the plant with soapy water. Unlike most natural pesticides, D.E. can stay in the soil working for decades.
Neem oil - like vegetable oil sprays, it suffocates insects. However, neem goes the extra step of destroying soft body insects' ability to reproduce and makes them starve by removing their appetites. Insecticidal Soap -
Citrus acid and molasses - repels and kills fire ants and similar pests. Mix 1-2 cups per gallon of soapy water. Hot boiling water mixed with garlic products, poured over the fire ant mounds will also kill the queens. You can produce citrus acid from crushing whole oranges or lemons into a tea.
Tobacco products - this is definitely a classic natural pesticide, but most organic gardeners today stay away from it. It may kill beneficials too if abused. It can cause diseases on tomatoes if not properly used. Most modern pro-tobacco pesticidal tea experts suggest brewing a tobacco tea no more than 30 minutes, to be safe enough to not harm beneficials like bees and ladybugs. You can mix in a liquid soap as a spreader-sticker. NOTE: Do not use tobacco teas on nightshade family crops. Also recent research has proven that the available nicotine produced in a tobacco tea is not the same stuff as nicotine sulfate. It is much safer than nicotine sulfate or rotenone. Just one drop of pure nicotine sulfate on your skin can may you sick. Homemade tobacco teas have great knock down power for tough pests like Japanese beetles. Chewing tobaccos are the safest, natural forms for these homemade tobacco teas.
Organic Gardening is all about cooperating with nature instead of working apart from or against nature. Restoring balance doesn’t require the use of toxic chemicals or genetically modified crops – it does require a little ingenuity—to use nature to combat the forces of nature. Get active, get
growing, but most importantly, get creative!
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Putting Garden to Bed: Winterizing
The 2013 season, raised beds were mulched with either wood mulch or with straw
and covered in black plastic. Covering raised beds works to kill weeds—which were
invading most beds towards the end of the growing season. New information from
local gardening group, Desperate Gardeners, revealed that for northeast Missouri
this method is not ideal for this climate. The consensus from several master
gardeners is that black plastic can attract rodents and cause mold. Although
winterization for this season is already done, this will be corrected in the following
season when it is time to winterize the garden again. Instead, CGCG’s new method
for winterization will be to mulch each bed with leaves, straw, or wood mulch and
let sit over winter.
http://www.almanac.com/content/putting-garden-bed
Before the ground gets too hard, remove all weeds and debris and eliminate overwintering sites for insects and disease.
Gently till the soil to expose any insects who plan to overwinter; this will reduce pest troubles in the spring and your garden site will be ready come spring!
Once most of the garden soil is exposed, add a layer of compost, leaves, manure (if you have it), and lime (if you need it). Gently till into the soil.
Another option is to sow cover crops such as winter rye to improve your soil and reduce weeks. See our Related Article above on Cover Crops for the U.S. and for Canada.
If some areas have hopelessly gone to weeds, cover them with black plastic and leave it in place over the winter and into the spring to kill sprouting seeds.
Preventative Maintenance
To prevent blossom-end rot, plant crushed eggshells in with tomato plants.
Check on your garden often - everyday if possible, to catch problems early
Encourage natural enemies by diversifying the habitat and their food sources
Purchase only clean transplants from a trustworthy source, or raise your own in a hygienic greenhouse setting
Use strategies of timing and avoidance - become knowledgeable about the life cycle of pests that you are
aware of and adjust planting dates appropriately if possible
Mulching – some pests and diseases thrive in mulch, others do not. Know your pest!
Crop rotation
Destroy any infected crop debris after harvest
Sanitize pruning tools between uses
When pruning or harvesting, cut stalks at an angle so that water cannot collect and harbor bacterial growth
Cover young plants with row cover (be aware of pollination needs)
Proper watering techniques – not too much, not too little. When possible, avoid wetting leaves.
Use biological control in the form of applying parasitic nematodes or beneficial fungi to restore soil health
9.) What did you like best about the Community Garden?
10.) What did you like least?
11.) What suggestions do you have for making this project more effective?
12.) Any additional comments?
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An evaluation of Common Ground Community Garden would not be complete
without a discussion and increased awareness of potential challenges and
opportunities in the upcoming season to increase individual and group
preparedness for the upcoming 2014 season. Common challenges experienced by
CGCG organizers and volunteers include:
Leadership: Community gardens, in general, are management intensive. It requires
time, patience, enthusiasm, resourcefulness, and the ability to organize and work
with diverse people and projects. A good garden manager is creative and has the
capacity to adapt to situations that arise and resolve any conflict. This manual is
intended to assist future garden leaders in managing CGCG.
Maintenance: CGCG requires a significant amount of maintenance—from day-to-
day gardening upkeep to cleaning up the landscape. The grass will need to be
mowed once a week, weeds will need to be trimmed back, plant debris will need to
be composted, and trash will need to be picked up and removed. Watering,
weeding, pruning, and constant pest control take priority—for without a garden
there would be no use for the space.
Sustainability & Participation: Each year will bring an ebb and flow of participants
as they come and go in the community. It can be a challenge to maintain consistent
sense of community and volunteer base with constant changes in volunteers. The
goal is to continue to encourage growth by offering more educational incentives in
conjunction with the incentive for fresh produce. As the old saying goes, “Many
hands make light work” and that is definitely the case for such a labor intensive
project. The more participants there are the less work they will have which leaves
more time to participate in workshops. Gardeners who lack skills and knowledge in
gardening are more like to give up without having an opportunity to learn and
grow in their ability.
Resources for Funding: Since CGCG is not a 501c3 nonprofit, grant opportunities
are limited. Although CGCG received a lot of in-kind donations, the need for
funding would really be for dedicated leadership at the garden.
Vandalism & Theft: May continue to happen.
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Common Ground Community Garden has had a successful first year in spite of obstacles. The majority of problems that occurred throughout the first season were resolved through research, changes in structure, and discussion with participants and community members. The outcomes of the first year represent the anticipated deliverables listed in CGCG’s mission: To provide common ground for ALL people of Hannibal to not only plant seeds and watch them grow but to educate, encourage, and nurture a strong sense of community through creating green, communal spaces. The mission was achieved through a series of interlocking strategies. CGCG transformed vacant and neglected public space into a garden—welcoming not only volunteers who want to learn how to grow their own food and eat fresh, organic fruits and vegetables but people who just want to enjoy the scenery and escape to a colorful, ecological oasis in the midst of an industrial area. This way, CGCG is a
training ground for gardening and a park for enjoyment, to re-create and play outside. CGCG was determined to lead by example, illustrating to the Hannibal community that gardening does not always require excessive monetary spending; you can create a beautiful garden using recycled materials and materials that are nature-made. The very structure of the garden encourages teamwork, identifying that communication is the cornerstone to teamwork.
And—efficient & effective communication is the foundation for community—because it establishes common ground. Community gardens are excellent conversation starters, and CGCG was a place where people could discuss ideas, share and exchange knowledge, and learn from each other—a place to compromise, collaborate, accommodate, and cooperate. The real foundation for a sustainable community is not merely changing behavior to be more “green” or ecological friendly—it is not a reliance on materials with socially conscious labels nor does it require money. Instead, it is a knowledgeable community that uses creativity to work as a team. When problems arise all it requires is for people to use common sense, put their heads together, and come up with a collective solution.
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1.) Invest in leadership. Use the grant money to hire a garden manager to organize
volunteers, workshops, and community events.
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2.) Partner with local organizations. Encourage food pantries to participate for access
to fresh food. Continue to reach out to local organizations & social groups to raise
awareness. Seek fiscal sponsorship for funding. Find an organization willing to
adopt the garden.
3.) Get schools involved in starting seeds for the growing season. Encourage them to
see the benefits of hands-on experiential learning.
4.) Invest in a sheltered picnic area. The lot has no shade and there needs to be a place
for relief from the sun.
5.) Organize workshops in advance—set up dates at the beginning of the season so
that there is time to publicize the educational opportunities.
6.) Offer basic garden training workshops—not everyone knows how to weed, mulch,
water, & prune a garden. Offer certificates of completion. Ask master gardeners
and other garden specialists to conduct a workshop.
7.) Create work parties for harvesting and for construction and turn them into events.
Perhaps even look for sponsors.
8.) Make sure workshops have an evaluation survey and introduce other ways to
evaluate the garden like taste tests or picture journals.
9.) Create more signs with information about the garden, including guidelines and
ways to participate.
10.) Maintain the current building method—using recycled materials and paint.
Perhaps even have local artists do murals.
Above all, remember—it’s not recreation; it’s RE-CREATION.
So let’s go PLAY outside!
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Layer Compost “Lasagna-Style” For no-Till Gardening, (2010)