Estetica SA 17th Edition

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N° 17/12 EDITION

FeatureIs your hair thinning or falling out?

all you need to know

IntervIewghd’s CeO, Paul Stoneham

newSeStetICa and exclusiveBrandstorino

Joya agate Drusy rings

Everywhere in the world It’s always Estetica time!

ghdhair.com

AW600_SA AIR 2012_TRADE REVEAL DPS .indd 1 20/02/2012 10:01

For more information please contact your ghd account manager or call 086 010 9366

The new ghd air professional hairdryer

A new kind of power

AW600_SA AIR 2012_TRADE REVEAL DPS .indd 2 20/02/2012 10:01

ghdhair.com

AW600_SA AIR 2012_TRADE REVEAL DPS .indd 1 20/02/2012 10:01

For more information please contact your ghd account manager or call 086 010 9366

The new ghd air professional hairdryer

A new kind of power

AW600_SA AIR 2012_TRADE REVEAL DPS .indd 2 20/02/2012 10:01

Estetica DPS April 2012.indd 1 4/3/2012 10:21:32 AM Estetica DPS April 2012.indd 2 4/3/2012 10:21:33 AMUntitled-1 2 2012/04/03 11:13 AM

Estetica DPS April 2012.indd 1 4/3/2012 10:21:32 AM Estetica DPS April 2012.indd 2 4/3/2012 10:21:33 AMUntitled-1 3 2012/04/03 11:13 AM

C o N T E N T

Hair: Essential Looks for Schwarzkopf Professional

Creative direction: Steve HoganPhoto: Peter Gehrke

Make-up: Gudrun MüllerStyling: Lucy ManningProducts: Schwarzkopf

Professional

F A S H I O N

12 Catwalks Pastel Palettes

16 Book Hair Travel

19 Hair Trend Special Effects

20 Events International Trend Vision Award

22 Events Goldwell Color Zoom

24 Trends Subtle Shading

28 Nails Banging Nails

31 Beauty Make-up

33 Beauty Women

35 Beauty Men

36 Vision Elitist Freedom

Designers revealed in all the colours of the rainbow. Deceptively simple coifs oozed sophistication

Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl,

Turin/Italy

Published byTopco Media

5th FloorPinnacle Building

Strand Street Cape Town

Ph: 086 000 9590Fax: 021 423 7876

Email: [email protected]: www.estetica.co.za

STAFFPublisher

Richard Fletcher

General ManagerVan Fletcher

EditorCindy Horton

Sub-EditorThulile Nxumalo

DesignJayne Mace´

Talbot Ferguson

Advertising & Business Development Manager

Lizel Jonker

[email protected]

CONTRIBUTORSPhotographySimon Deiner /

SDR Photography

PrintersPaarl Media Paarl

ESTETICA FASHION N0. 17/12 – SEVENTEENTH EDITION 2012

Sensational glamour: so elegant, so beautiful, and so alluring. These hair-do’s have a dazzling grandezza and magnificent radiance

44 Young American

48 Vintage Project

52 Nature’s Palette

56 Guest Star

60 Primitive Beauty

66 Pure Energy

70 A Tailor’s Story

74 Opposites Attract

78 Shining Red Carpet

82 Absolutely Women

86 Breaking Tradition

90 Stars of Inspiration

M o d a : I n t e r n a t I o n a l t r e n d s

94 Interview Adil Mehboob-Khan

98 Interview Paul Stoneham

100 Events Hairdressers Against Aids

102 Events MITCH Men

104 Feature Hair loss

106 Interview Elma Titus

110 Interview Dr Kevin Alexander

112 Round Table Free Fall

114 Agenda Calendar

118 News Report

122 Products Reviews

127 Subscriptions

128 Stockists

ESTETICA FASHION N0. 17/12 – SEVENTEENTH EDITION 2012

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Heads may swing on the runway – but they really turn corners on the street and that’s where you are. Turning hair trends into style, living the look, creating hair to suit your fashion mood in your own way. Wella Professionals‘ care and styling ranges will deliver the best possible you. www.wella.com

amPliFy your PerFormance

5997 WP Generic FPFC Estetica.indd 1 2012/03/27 1:05 PMUntitled-3 1 2012/03/29 1:50 PM

e D i t o r i a l

Welcome to our first edition of 2012. The New Year gives us the opportunity to gain a new perspective, a fresh approach and to take advantage of new opportunities. However with these leaps of faith into untouched territory and new beginnings comes change.Change in your daily routine, change in your mind set and of course, change brings new challenges. I for one, find change a bit daunting to begin with, but once the first steps have been put into place, I find it quite refreshing and exciting. Therefore, I have decided to embrace the changes in my life this year with optimism and positivity.In the light of my new found freedom from change, I decided that it was time for ESTETICA to go through a mild transformation of its own. I hope you enjoy our subtle new look throughout the magazine and the new additions we have install for you this year.I am happy to announce that we will be showcasing a special feature in all our upcoming editions for the year. In this edition we explore the various causes and contributors to hair thinning and hair loss in women, men, children and adolescents. You will receive expert advice on making a diagnosis and the relevant treatment from Trichologist Elma Titus and Dr Kevin Alexander.ESTETICA investigates the variety of products available to assist with hair thinning and scalp conditions on the Product Review pages 122-125. In the Round Table Discussion, two local hair stylists and salon owners offer advice on ways to deal with clients experiencing hair loss and products they recommend.In addition, we will be publishing three gorgeous supplements this year. With the huge success of ESTETICA AFRO’s launch last year, we have decided to not only do one, but two AFRO magazines this year, as well as our forever popular Best Colour & Technique supplement. I hope that the year ahead is filled with promising opportunities, positivity and of cause, lots of laughter.

Cindy Horton Editor

Hair: Essential Looks for Schwarzkopf Professional

Creative direction: Steve HoganPhoto: Peter Gehrke

Make-up: Gudrun MüllerStyling: Lucy ManningProducts: Schwarzkopf

Professional

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R i C A | 11

Cindy Horton Editor

Estetica South [email protected]

here is always that special week in September that allows us to glimpse what we can expect following the long, cold winter

months, and this year it was a particularly welcomed event, given the sherbet-esque colours that most designers chose for these delicious confections. From lime green, to canary yellow, fabulous fuchsia, and even tropical turquoise. For Preen, Aveda’s Paul Hanlon came up with a rolled up-do that evoked the 1940’s to second yet enhance the structured silhouettes cut by pencil skirts and trousers. First hair was brushed and then tightly rolled and twisted up and back before being pinned into place. The models were however, a bit “cheeky”, sporting apricot and mango blush and a bold and colourful block patterns that made this collection so mix&match perfect with the complementary solid coloured pieces. A more ironic flair was achieved when this geometric rigidity was interrupted by cascades of black and white flowers. Antoinette Beenders styled hair for Christian Siriano’s somewhat frillier collection, speaking volumes in poofs and ruffles and pleats in solid colours and white being an accent rather than a neutral. Beenders first made sleek braids with Aveda Control Spray and then used a flat-iron for texture before finger-combing them out for a naturally feminine look. Then, of course, an all-time favorite, Sophie Theallet presented her ultra-feminine yet no-nonsense couture, embracing colour as she has never done before, but opting for lots of solid fuchsia, turquoise, and canary yellows, except when it came down to her multi-hued strappy sandals and shoes. As Theallet was admittedly inspired by the 1969 French film “La Piscine” for this collection, Didier Malige decided to follow suit with an instinctually sensual wet-look chignon – both fresh and French – empowering the women who confidently ooze femininity in these flowing flocks.

Pastel

PalettesT

Deceptively simplecoifs oozed sophistication

Designers reveled in all the colours of the rainbow, heralding in spring and summer with collections that drew their inspiration from European art and films. by Marie Scarano

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Fabrics were flowing in either stunning

solid hues or water-colour washes.

C A T W A L K S

Pastel

Palettes Deceptively simple and elegant styles often take hard work and a professional touch, as the Aveda team of Beenders, Hanlon, and Malige demonstrate.

Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo

Whether up-do’sor down-dos, for the utmost

elegance, professional styling products make

a big difference.

All photos by Jon Gurinsky for Aveda

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E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13

fashion week USA 1 12.indd 3 2012/04/02 10:03 AM

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Elene Cassis

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Cloudy prismsJenny Packham’s sumptuously fluttery collection was all soft and flowing, no matter what length, whether quasi-babydoll or sweeping the floor. Some ton-sur-ton crystals and beading added just the right bling, trimming decolletés and illuminating shoulders and bodices to draw attention up towards the face. Mostly solid colours ranged from white to tangerine and pale chartreuse, with some poppy red for true diva appeal. Silky and slinky fabrics were seconded by Leonardo Manetti, who styled hair for L’Oréal by parting it slightly to the side before smoothing it out into sleek elegant tresses that caressed the shoulder and moved naturally, making it the perfect complement to the flow of the dresses. L’Oréal Professionnel Perfect Shimmer shine illuminating mist gave the ultimate touch of elegance, once again demonstrating that beautiful, healthy hair is always right on trend.Simplicity continued to dominate in Elene Cassis’s collection, so sought after for her elegant, confident, and clean lines that are always feminine, always urban chic, and oohh-so wearable. This season Cassis opted for refreshing pastels like coral, powder blue, and canary yellow, while her signature black&white this year were relegated to function as neutrals, adding depth to an otherwise two-dimensional minimalist look that evoked classic1960’s contours. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Amit Abraham took the cue by bobbing hair to enhance the geometric colour – blocked feminine frocks: minimalistic but frivolous – crimping hair with L’Oréal Infinium 3 for wave patterns and finishing up with Fresh Dust for less shine and more matte effect. The final look was refreshing, breaking away from expectations of a vintage beehive updo or retro- bob or sophisticated flip. “In order to add detail into the hair, you need to manipulate its texture …,” said Abraham. “The final texture of the hairstyle was inspired by the intricacy of the fabrics she used, a complementary contrast to Elene’s clean lines and geometric designs.”

Plenty of pastelsfor a soft baby- doll look

C a t w a l k s

L’Oréal Professionnel artists Leonardo Manetti and Amit Abraham drew inspiration from the collections for their catwalk coifs. Backstage photos courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel.

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E S T E T I C A S O U t H A F R I C A | 15

here is nothing more characteristic about a person’s appearance, whether male or female, as his or her hairstyle. Our hair

defines our style, our social class, our lifestyle. More than clothes, accessories, and often more than many words. It is therefore not surprising that hair has always fascinated experts of style and image. Hairstyling regularly goes beyond the confines of the salon and the mirror, even reaching bookshops, ending up side by side with much more controversial issues. Hairstyles Ancient to Present, by English author Charlotte Fiell, is a voyage into the world of hairdressing, a celebration of the art of styling hair, or moulding it and linking it to

fashion. A true Bible of international hairstyling that reveals how we coifed our locks a century ago, during the Punk era, during the Renaissance, or in Ancient Greece. More than one-thousand photographs, portraits, and drawings. Indeed, a study of the evolution of hairstyling as an expressive tool and benchmark of costume. The cover (“Mystique” by Toni&Guy, 1985) is by Anthony Mascolo, as are many of the hair-do’s that illustrate the second part of this book. The book is also a limited edition, distributed exclusively in TIGI UK salons with great success. There are also plenty of historic and “precious” images: from powdered and abundantly decorated wigs of the XVIII century, where hair was plaited with ostrich feathers, flowers, and jewels, to the photographs of the stars of the silver screen of the 1940’s, with their hair slicked back to perfection. Hairstyles in fact celebrates even the creators of such works, the hairstylists themselves, and their capacity to mould and sculpt hair, to assimilate feminine desires and transform them into cut, colour, and style.

Hair

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Ancient to Present, published by Fiell,

576 pages, e 59.95.

Below: one of the one-thousand images that make up theheart of this book.

More than one thousand images to celebrate hairstyling and its evolution. Hairstyles is a journey in time: how we have coifed our hair from antiquity to today.

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16 | E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

Hair

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On this page, images of hairstyles and moments dedicated to hairstyling

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Long live fantasy. The new season brings catwalks that focus on special effect fireworks. Haute couture inspiration transferred to high street design.

Serious backcombing, telescopic curls, unexpected partings and plaits, fluorescent colours. The prêt-a-porter fashion shows for spring/summer 2012 are all about fantasy and esprit de vie. From Paris to Milan, the curtain goes up to reveal special effects and hi-tech ideas. From Fendi to Gaultier, Westwood to Limi Feu, the fashion shows bring hairstyles with big egos, full of potential for less over-the-top interpretations in salons. A plait is embellished with long leather ribbons, an up-do drapes over the forehead, a band of fuchsia light illuminates an otherwise simple chignon. Hair-power.

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E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19