Estée Lauder, perfect timing - Cosmetiquemag · seia issues iS et nroi ai ontinenta ranEe a { a issues sueent free esite iS et nroi ai ontinenta rane contact us 6o subscride DR N°

Cosmétique magazine n°198 - october 2018Deciphering the beauty industry and retail

DOSSIERTravel retail goes digitalpage 36

While the Lauder Group has achieved an «exceptional» fiscal year for 2017-18, Cédric Prouvé, President of the Estée Lauder Group, analyzes the brands’ opportunities

in the world. Exclusive interview page 14 DRIS

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Estée Lauder,perfect timing

Cosmétique magazine n°198 - october 2018Deciphering the beauty industry and retail

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editorialA new ecosystem There’s light on the horizon for travel retail. After three years of flagging sales, the market has finally exceeded its 2014 high mark. This strong performance is in large part due to the sale of perfumes and cosmetics. Still, the sector's sales figures, especially in airports, are not yet commensurate with the growing number of

airline passengers. This begs the question: are shops not attractive enough? Over

the past few years, their prices, and more specifically their tax discount, i.e. the original reason for these stores, have not been low enough.

Stores' various initiatives, including events and exclusive offers, also have

their limits – especially when they're only advertised by the primary stakeholders, namely dealers and brands. Customers must be infor-med of sales offers as soon as they step foot in the airport – or even when they're buying their tickets or prepping for their trip – and not just in front of the duty-free area. Brands and airports are well aware of this, but are just starting to implement joint solutions like the one at Heathrow. The London airport showcases the stores on site as well as the products they sell. Customers can even reserve products by entering their departure date, flight number, and/or destination. This is a first step that could be reproduced in other airport hubs. After all, airports also have an interest in the revenue generated by commercial activities.

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contentsEDITORIAL

KEEP AN EYE ON...

EVENT12 Estée Lauder, perfect timing 14 Interview of Cédric Prouvé, Group President of International 16 Analyste recognize Estée LAuder's strong performance 18 A strong family culture

BUSINESS22 (BRANDS) Affordable brands know how to win customers26 (COMMUNICATION) Brands are tuning into podcasts30 (SUPPLYING) M&As that pack a punch34 (BAROMETERS) The deconsumption trend continues

START-UP35 (MAKEUP) Beauty Pie, the « Netflix » of beauty

DOSSIER TRAVEL RETAIL36 Travel Retail goes digital 38 Beauty supercharges 40 Vincent Boinay, General Manager of L'Oréal Travel Retail 44 Will digital transform beauty in travel retail? 48 Travel retail cruises into easy waters

TRENDS50 (INSPIRATIONS) Welcome to the real life52 (RETAIL) Duty free stores are improving their shopping experience56 (INGREDIENTS) White flowers make a run for the roses 60 Skincare in full bloom62 (PACKAGING) Innovation don’t remaine on the shelf66 (CONSUMPTION) Japanese beauty conquers the West70 (COMMUNICATION) Industrial tourism: an education in expertise

PRODUCTS72 (MAKEUP) Fall's latest lip releases74 (MAKEUP) Isabel Marant (also) dresses up the face 75 (FRAGRANCE) Burberry is back for her 77 (FRAGRANCE) Margiela, H&M, Armani Privé, Boss 78 (HAIR) Hair nutrition by Vichy 80 (SKINCARE) La Roche-Posay does more than just cover up 83 (SKINCARE) High-tech beauty 84 (MAKEUP) The Parisian looks of L'Oréal 87 (SKINCARE) Payot doesn't have the bleues 91 (SKINCARE) Nivea in black 94 (SELECTION OF REDACTION) Carolina Herrera's Good Girl (but not too good) 98 (SPOTLIGHT ON FLESH) Flesh

PLAYEURS100 (HR) The sourcers, the Indiana Jones of fragrance industry103 (SAGA) Emily Weiss, Glossier104 (CARTE BLANCHE) Mathilde Laurent, Cartier perfumer106 (INFLUENCEURS) Pat McGrath, an ambitious makeup artist©

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