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THE MEADOWS AT CHRIST CHURCH
The Meadows
O ne of the oldest parts of Oxford Is a
piece of property which sits to the
south of Christ Church, and is
known as the “Meadows.” This
large expanse has been used since Anglo-Saxon
times for the townspeople to graze their cattle.
Now, however, it is controlled by Christ
Church. When one is that the Meadows it is
hard to imagine that it sits smack dab in the
middle of Oxford, because very few buildings
can be seen. There is a walk which originates at
the Meadows Building of Christ Church which
extends through the meadow all the way to the
river. This walkway has been used for hundreds
of years by students, faculty, and townspeople
alike. Even in the middle of summer during the
tourist season, very few people can be found in
this area.
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THE MEADOWS AT CHRIST CHURCH
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D uring my time at
Christ Church I lived
in the “Old Library.” It
is located on the south-
east corner of the college and
overlooks the Meadows Building.
It is called the old library for good
reason: It is the old library. But
more than that, it was a part of
the original priory which existed
on this site prior to its conversion
The Old Library
OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH
On the right is an old
lithograph of the
“Ancient Library” ,
which was actually the
old dining hall for the
monks at the Priory.
Above is photo of same
wall showing the same
hutch for the reader and
the conversion of the
Refectory to rooms for
students The conversion
was done in 1772.
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to a college by Cardinal Wolsey in 1525. It
was originally the dining hall for the monks
and the members of the community. Since
the first building completed at Christ
Church was the hall, the old monks dining
hall became the first library of Christ
Church. It served as a library from the mid-
1500s until the completion of the new li-
brary in about 1690. Since that time, it has
served as a classroom, and anatomy lecture
hall, and in 1772 was converted into rooms
for students, principally from the Westmin-
ster School in London. But vestiges of the
OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH
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old library remain. On the top floor is the
original ceiling from the library, which was
hand-painted with the coat of arms of the Uni-
versity, the College, and various benefactors.
There is also a small , rather secret room in
the Old Library which contains a private li-
brary belonging to the fellows of the college
and which was strictly off-limits to everyone
else. One can only imagine its contents. My
bet: Gambling Books over the past 500 years.
Also probably some pretty rare books and
documents. Then again, it could be their mas-
sive porn collection.
OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH
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The view from my room, Christ Church
OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH
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ANCIENT AND MODERN STONEWORK
All over Oxford are gargoyles and grotesques.
Some are quite old, others quite new One
even shows a man eating magic mushrooms! I
would wager this is one of the newer ones.
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T he New College is the ancestor
of all colleges designed after it
was founded in 1379 by a
bishop of Winchester named
William of Wychem. He intended for it
to be a destination for scholars educated
at his grammar school near the cathedral
in Winchester. It led the way and set the
pace for the development of colleges in
both Oxford and in Cambridge, and by
extension, most American colleges. First,
it was built beginning t o end in one con-
tinuous action, accepting its first stu-
dents in 1384. Second, it was the first
purpose built college quadrangle in all of
THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379
The New College
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THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379
First Collegiate Gatehouse
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architecture, and has been imitated more times than
W.C. Fields. The main quadrangle contained the old
warden’s lodgings, student lodgings, faculty lodg-
ings, a magnificent Chapel and a beautifully ap-
pointed Hall. On the top floor of the east range is
the original library, which is now a Senior Common
Room. Contained within the staircase leading to hall
is the college archives and, at one time, the college
treasury. It has a beautiful garden at the rear of its
property, which has segments of the old town wall
which probably dates from about the 10th century.
Hugh Grant is a graduate of New College, and yet
despite this it remains one of the elite colleges of
Oxford. My history professor at Wabash, James Bar-
nes, was a Rhodes Scholar her in the mid 1900s.
THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379
New College Quadrangle
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THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379
New College Hall
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THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379
New College Chapel
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THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379
The Medieval Town Wall
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SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE
I n the heart of Oxford is the
Schools Quadrangle. While its
anchor tenant is the ancient
Bodleian Library, the quadrangle
its self housed the ancient classrooms,
each one dedicated to a particular
“liberal art.” Above each door is the
name of the school, in latin. Now these
rooms house special exhibitions and
the University Gift Shop.
The Schools Quadrangle
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The Schools Quadrangle
SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE
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Opposite: The doors to the various
schools in the Schools Quadrangle.
This page: The Schools Gatehouse from
the lantern of the Sheldonian Theater.
Detail over the main window to the old-
est section of the Bodleian Library
SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE
The Schools Quadrangle
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Views of the Schools Quadrangle
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T he principal roadway which bisects
the town of Oxford is called simply
“the High.” It basically starts at the
old Anglo-Saxon tower on the west
side of town, and ends at the Magdalen Bridge
on the east side of town. It passes several store-
fronts, as well as Brasenose College, the Univer-
sity Church, All Souls College, University Col-
lege, Queens College, and Magdalen College.
Also one will find the Examination Schools near
the West End.
Several side streets of some import bisect the
High. That would include King Edward Street,
Oriel Street, Logic Lane, Turl Street, Catte Street,
Queens College Lane and Merton Street. Also
these tributaries spur into several alleyways,
many of which contain small public houses, also
known as Pubs.
THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
The Turl Street Tributary off The High
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THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
College Portals on The High
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THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
The Turl Street Tributary off The High
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THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
The Turl Street Tributary off The High
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THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
The King Edward Street Tributary off The High
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lege. He was also a member of its boat crew, as I remember his oar was displayed in the
alumni office during my years as a student.
Jesus College today looks Gothic, however when it was founded it was built along classical
lines. In the 19th century steps were taken to make it look older and several Gothic features
were added. There are two principal quadrangles, the oldest being on the east side of the
grounds and the newer being on the west side of the grounds. Both quadrangles are connected
in the middle to a hall which is also built along classical lines. Hanging in the Hall is a painting
JESUS COLLEGE
Gothic Renovations
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JESUS COLLEGE
of the College’s benefactor Queen
Elizabeth the first, and a painting of a
former student named Lawrence,
who is also known as Lawrence of
Arabia. There is also a statue in the
entryway of the Chapel commemo-
rating Sir Laurence.
I took several pictures in the Chapel
and the front quadrangle. I also pho-
tographed the front door of the Mas-
ters Lodgings.
Lawrence of Arabia
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THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES
Turl Street
T url Street runs north and south
along the western boundary of the
ancient university. It is about three
blocks long, and contains Lincoln
College, Exeter College, and Jesus College.
There are also a couple of stores, who no
doubt pay rent to the colleges which probably
own the storefronts. Of the colleges, the front
of Lincoln college is the oldest, followed by
the front of Jesus College, and rounded out by
the front of Exeter College which was built in
about 1620. Of the three, only the front of Lin-
coln College is original, as the other two col-
leges rebuilt or extensively remodeled around
1620. Lincoln college, however, retains much
of its medieval charm and has been well main-
tained through the ages.
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S t. Edmunds Hall is a small Oxford college which has been in
existence for several centuries. It is the only remaining Hall
to still exist. It is named in honor of an Archbishop of Can-
terbury named Edmund of Abington. While some would
like to believe that the archbishop actually founded this college, the
historical record is silent. While it is true that Archbishop Abington
did teach in Oxford, there is no indication that he founded a college
there and that St. Edmunds Hall is the successor to the institution.
For a couple of centuries, St. Edmunds Hall was part of Queens Col-
lege. Although it had a separate administration, it was basically
owned by Queens. Then it achieved its independence and, in the last
50 years, was elevated to the position of an Oxford college, even
though it kept the name St. Edmunds Hall.
Also known as the Teddy, it occupies a small set of buildings, the
entrance to which is located on Queens Lane. The courtyard has a
large well, which used to be operational. There is also a large build-
ing, half of which was built during the 16th century and the other
half of more later vintage. There is also a set of small medieval look-
ST. EDMUND HALL
St. Edmund’s Origins
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ST. EDMUND HALL
The Quadrangle at Teddy
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ing buildings which are actually quite
new. Rounding out the Main quadrangle is
a large stone structure with vague Gothic
lines which contained the original hall. The
Chapel extends off the rear of the library.
The new library is found in a de-
consecrated church known as St. Peter’s of
the East which sits to the North of the
Main quadrangle. Parts of that library are
more than 800 years old.
The Teddy is a popular college amongst
the undergraduates and usually fields
some very good sporting teams, and con-
tains its share of scholars as well. While it
does not have the buildings or the endow-
ment of 99% of the other colleges at Ox-
ford, it is a charming place.
ST. EDMUND HALL
A Grave Marker in the Teddy Garden
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E xeter College is one of the older
colleges at Oxford. It was founded
in the early 14th century, and its
first students were primarily from
the South West of England. The oldest part
of the college is Palmer Tower, which is the
early gatehouse to the original college. How-
ever, that is the only part of the original col-
lege which remains, and what stands cur-
rently was built in the early 17th century for
the most part. The exception is the Chapel
EXETER COLLEGE
Exeter
Broad
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EXETER COLLEGE
Exeter Chapel and Hall
which was built in the mid-19th century. The Chapel looked out of place in the small quadran-
gle. What’s more, the Chapel it replaced was apparently perfectly good. Records indicate that
it could not be torn down, but instead had to be blown apart with gunpowder. Inside, how-
ever, the current Chapel is very picturesque. I also found my way into the Fellows Garden,
which is loaded with beautiful plants.
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O ne of the hidden treasures of Oxford Uni-
versity is the Pitt Rivers Museum. It is a
Gothic revival building on the north side
of campus, and was built in the 19th cen-
tury. This is new by Oxford standards. The front of
the building is brick, but extending off the back is a
large collection area with a glass roof allowing natural
sunlight to light the entire museum. For those cases
that are not well lit, the library gives patrons a flash-
light.
The collection is incredibly diverse. Instead of ranking
things by geography or by chronology, the collection
is instead ordered by function. This means that the
exhibit on smoking would include things that were
smoked by the Egyptians, things that were smoked by
Vikings, things are smoked by Americans, and even
cannabis!. Honest to God, the smoking exhibit con-
tains a bag of reefer and a pipe. One of the most un-
usual exhibits pertains to the way man has dealt with
its enemies, and included in this exhibit is the
shrunken head shown at the right. Beth was mesmer-
ized by it!
PITT-RIVERS MUSEUM, OXFORD
Shrunken Heads at Pitt Rivers
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FAMOUS FOLKS AT THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM, OXFORD
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T he Ashmolean Museum at Oxford is a
world class museum. It is filled with
treasures dating back to ancient times. It
has a tremendous collection of marble
statues coming from both Greece and Rome, as
well as other artifacts from that time and place. It
also contains the so-called Alfred Jewel, which is a
gold trinket attesting to the fact that Alfred the
Great ordered that it be created. It is one of the few
artifacts actually tied to that great Saxon King. Also
of interest were the maces representing the differ-
ent faculties of the University and which date back
Grand Staircase
THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM
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several centuries. Also notable is a Stradivarius
violin which is a so-called “virgin” inasmuch
as it has never been played. It is one of a kind.
The museum was built in the early 19th cen-
tury and is, as you might expect, as solid as the
rock it is made of. Also associated with the
Ashmolean Museum is the Taylor Institute,
which in Oxford speak is known as the Tay-
lorian, which is dedicated to the language arts.
The Ashmolean Museum is not meant to com-
pete with the Pitt Rivers Museum, which con-
tains a more eclectic collection and is slightly
younger than the Ashmolean. The true treas-
ures are in the Ashmolean, while all the cool
stuff is at Pitt-Rivers. Enjoyed them both.
THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM
Cardinal Pole and the Lord Protector
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J esus College was founded in the late 16th
century and has always attracted students
from Wales. This was reinforced by gen-
erous donations from Queen Elizabeth the
first, whose grandfather, Henry VII, was from
Wales.
For centuries Jesus College was rather small
and undistinguished. However, during the
20th century it became famous for its work in
science and particularly in the field of physics.
The president of my College was a gentleman
named Dr. Louis Salter, who was a Rhodes
scholar and studied physics at Jesus College.
As a matter of fact, he and his wife were mar-
ried in the Chapel on Christmas Eve during
his time there. Also, Byron Trippet, another
president of Wabash College and a Rhodes
scholar, was a student in classics at Jesus Col-
JESUS COLLEGE
A College for the Welsh
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T he Broad parallels the High. Exe-
ter, Balliol and Trinity Colleges
front this street. There is also a
cross made of bricks which marks
the spot where the Catholics burned the An-
glican Bishops and Archbishop at the stake.
The Broad is also the home of the world fa-
mous Blackwell’s Bookstore.
THE BROAD
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THE BROAD
Views on the Broad: Master’s Lodgings, Balliol College;
the Clarendon Building; and old entrance to the old Ash-
molean; Detail of Sheldonian Theater showing the royal
arms of the restored King Charles II
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CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, OXFORD
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CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, OXFORD
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T rinity College is lo-
cated on Broad . It was
originally founded by
Benedictine monks in
the mid-15th century, when it
was known as Durham College.
However, the college was closed
during the Reformation. It was
reopened during the Counter
Reformation, by a catholic named
Pope, and has remained in exis-
tence to this day. It is a rich col-
lege with a beautiful chapel filled
with incredible wood carvings by
Grindling Gibbons..
TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD
A Popish College
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THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
Arial and Ancient
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THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
“Brideshead Revisited”
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Views of Trinity College
Boating Victory; a gar-
den wall, and old gothic
section appended to a
classical block
TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD
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C orpus Christi College was founded in
the early 16th century by Bishop Fox, of
Winchester. However, it was meant
from the beginning to be a secular insti-
tution. Accordingly, there were many innovations
which became the hallmark of Renaissance think-
ing. The first was a secular library. The Corpus
Christi library was visited and judged by Erasmus
in about 1520 to be one of the best libraries in exis-
tence. Also, the college specialized in classical edu-
cation, including the study of Greek and Arabic.
The study of these languages opened up the an-
cient texts which were all but lost during the me-
dieval period. Corpus was the first college to teach
Greek and Arabic. The college has always been
small and remains so. There are maybe only 400
students, both graduate and undergraduate. The
college sits between Christ Church and Merton
College, with the front gate on Merton Street. It
has a central sundial which tells time 28 different
ways.
A Walk Down The High
THE EXAMINATION SCHOOLS, OXFORD
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THE EXAMINATION SCHOOLS, OXFORD
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RADCLIFFE SQUARE
The Camera
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RADCLIFFE SQUARE
Another Era
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RADCLIFFE SQUARE
Steeple and Clarendon
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While we were in Oxford, film crews were there
working on the movie “Brideshead Revisited.”
On one of the days of filming I walked through
Radcliffe Square and saw a group of actors
sitting on the front steps of the great Bodleian
Library all of them in period dress from the
early 20th century. The scene abovecould have
been taken in 1910. However, if you look at the
actor closest to the camera, you will see that he
is talking on his cell phone.
RADCLIFFE SQUARE
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During my first week at Oxford I came across 5 people who made me
start thinking.
The first was a woman in my class who lived in LA all her life. Then,
for reasons she wouldn’t reveal, she sold all her possessions, and
bought a one way ticket to Heath Row. She came to Oxford for a couple
weeks at Christ Church to think things over,... a pretty nice venue for a
major reinvention. At first, I could not understand it. How could that
possibly be a good move? But I thought about it, and I grew to respect
her bravery in scuttling her old life, of which she had become dissatis-
fied. She obviously had her reasons. And imagine, an absolutely clean
slate, or as clean as one can get in our digital age. Anyway, hats off to
her.
Then there was my tutor, Julian Munby. Our class was on the architec-
FIVE PEOPLE I MET
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tural history of various parts of the several colleges and university
buildings. Julian was with an organization called “Oxford Archeology.”
He made it quite clear that he did not attend Oxford as a student. His
work as an archeologist of medieval sites is substantial, but you would-
n’t know it talking to him. He could speak and read Latin, perfectly, and
would read illegible documents. When we would enter a certain build-
ing, he wouldn’t say anything. He would find a comfortable seat, and
start looking at the ceilings, and then work his way down to the floor.
We would all do the same. Then he would talk. Very few words, but
concise. Come to find out, his father was a long time don/professor at
Nuffield College. Julian grew up in Oxford, attended Magdalen College
School, and only went to the University of London because neither Ox-
ford nor Cambridge offered such program. He has been on TV several
times as an expert on English medieval history. He wrote a book on the
medieval architecture of All Souls College, which means he had access
FIVE PEOPLE I MET
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to the college, its library and its archives…no small feat. His brother
was the judge of the Paul McCartney divorce. He rode his bike around
Oxford with his old boy muffler wrapped around his neck. Pretty im-
pressive by any measure, but what really came through to me was a guy
who was doing the one thing in his life that he loved, and that is a lux-
ury which cannot be purchased. Together with his incredible humility,
he was a heck of a guy who I greatly admire.
In stark contrast was a man who I call the Dead Lawyer. I sat with him
and his wife for a meal in hall. He was a litigator, and a partner at a
large firm in Minneapolis. His wife did most of the talking. He was so
burned out, he really LOOKED suicidal. He jumped through all the
hoops: college, law school, partnership. And at an incredible cost. Here
he was in the 500 year old hall at Christ Church, and he just wasn’t
there. To me, he was the ghost of Christmas future- What I saw in him,
FIVE PEOPLE I MET
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I could somehow see happening me. And with the flip of an anatomical
switch, the guy could have a heart attack or stroke that lays him low.
How incredibly terrible that would be, to live in abject misery, only to
die young.
The next was Mr. Dick Lawyer. Beth and I ate at the same table with
him and his wife toward the head of Christ Church hall on Wednesday
night. There we were, in that beautiful hall, and this nerd with a bowtie
starts regaling us with stories of private dining with Justice Sandra Day
O’Conner. WTF? The stories may have been true... I mean the dude
was wearing a bowtie. But he was such a tool, and a boorish dinner
companion to boot. These guys are so wrapped up in themselves and
their egos that they have no idea how alienating they are, even to peers.
Another helpful lesson for me.
FIVE PEOPLE I MET
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Earlier that same evening, in the buttery (“student bar”), just outside
hall, we met a guy who was about 65 years old and was a deputy DA in
Los Angeles. Now for a 65 year old man to be a deputy DA smacks of
underachievement. Perhaps. But the guy was non-assuming, jovial, ap-
propriately talkative about appropriate topics, ego neutral and could
care less about his profession while he was away on vacation, could
care less about his current case load, and could care even less about the
seriousness of it all. He was pragmatic about the criminal justice system
and his role in it. And it was just a role he played…not a life he lived
24/7. This is 180 degrees from the way my career progressed, and the
win at all cost mind set. I envied his freedom that such an outlook
brings.
FIVE PEOPLE I MET
Page 59
The Earl of Pembroke
stands guard outside the
oldest section of the
Bodleian Library. T he heart of the university, if there is such a
thing, is its great library, known as the
Bodleian.
The Bodleian Library has evolved over sev-
eral centuries, And is the envy of all its rivals. It
started off with very humble beginnings in the 14th
century, when the upstairs of the new Congregation
House was converted into a chained library. It has
seen its growth come in spurts, with great growth in
the 17th century and again in the 20th century.
There is a rule that no books may be checked out of
THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
An Early Library
Page 60
the Bodleian library. Back during the
reign of Charles I, while he was in exile
in Oxford, requisitioned a book from the
Bodleian and instructed his assistant to
fetch it. However, the request was de-
nied as that is the rule: no books can be
checked out of the Bodleian library.
In the early 15th century, money was
given to the University for the establish-
ment of a library which was to sit atop
the Divinity School. This is known as
Duke Humphrey’s library, Duke Hum-
phrey being the brother of King Henry V
Opposite:
This Page:
THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
The Original Bodleian
Page 61
THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
From the Divinity School to the Sheldonian
Page 62
and, more importantly, the uncle of the child King Henry VI. He was a man of learning and
apparently knew Chaucer. He also was a collector of books and manuscripts, which during
this period were written by hand, as the printing press had not yet been invented. Duke Hum-
phrey’s Library still exists, and is visited regularly by tourists. It has a beautiful painted ceiling
showing the arms of various benefactors as well as the arms of the University and several of its
colleges. Funny thing is that despite two visits to Oxford, and having spent 15 days there, I
have yet to visit Duke Humphrey’s Library, although Beth has and says it’s beautiful. Saving it
for trip number 3!
THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY
An Ancient View
Page 63
W EDNESDAY, JULY 18, 2007
We studied the late medieval colleges of Oxford, including St. John's, Christ
Church, Brasenose, All Souls, Magdalen, Corpus Christi, and Trinity Colleges.
On our walk we visited the Sheldonian Theater, as well as Trinity College
Chapel, both designed by Christopher Wren, (or so the people at Trinity would have you be-
lieve, Not really true although he did look at the plans and gave them his blessing). We then
climbed the copula of the Sheldonian theater and could see spires and tower tops of other
buildings. It was quite magnificent. When we walked through the Radcliffe Camera area in
Central Oxford, we noticed a group filming a new version “Brideshead Revisited.” There were
many actors in period costuming, which was interesting, although we did not see any actual
filming taking place at the time. We then climbed the stair steps to the lantern of the Sheldo-
nian and we were treated to a great view of the University and surrounding colleges.
That night, Beth came to dinner at The House, and we sat toward the front of the hall. We did-
n't make any arrangements in advance, just walked in. The setting sun was shining through
SHELDONIAN THEATER
A Polymath named Wren
Page 64
the 500-year-old stained-glass windows,
which had been blackened during WW II to
protect the ancient glass from German bomb-
ers. Luckily, Oxford was never attacked, as
Hitler believed that after he won the war, Ox-
ford would award him an honorary degree.
The man across from us, sporting a bow tie
and drenched with east coast sleaze, told sto-
ries about his private dinners with Justice San-
dra Day O’Connor. Whatever.
Thursday, July 19th, 2007 I started the day by
eating breakfast in hall. The standard, eggs
and sausage, with the added bonus of “blood
pudding .” MEMO TO SELF: DON’T EAT
BLOOD PUDDING. I knew that today was
going to be especially fun, as we were sched-
uled to see some really cool buildings, and I
was scheduled to dine at high table that night.
It turned out to be the most eventful day of my
adult life...possibly.
SHELDONIAN THEATER
Dinner with a Snob
Page 65
SHELDONIAN THEATER
Perfectly Aligned Passages
Page 66
SHELDONIAN THEATER
While eating breakfast, I started talking with a gentle-
man who was obviously a golfer due to the Augusta
National sweater he was wearing. He was a speech pro-
fessor at a university in Pennsylvania. We started talk-
ing about golf and, as it turned out, he brought his
clubs with him. We decided that we would try to find a
place to play that afternoon. But first, off to class.
A Plan to Play Golf
Page 67
O ne of the oldest structures in Oxford is St. Mary's
church, also known as the University Church.
The oldest portion is the central tower, which
dates back to the 12th century. The spire was
added a couple of centuries later. The principal part of the
church was started in the 15th century, replacing an earlier
structure which was built contemporaneously with the cen-
tral tower. On the Northeast side of the complex is a separate
structure, and yet connected, known as the Congregation
House. The upstairs was the first purpose built room for Uni-
versity purposes and was completed in the early 14th cen-
tury. It has served variously as a classroom, faculty room,
and library.
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH
A Very Old Church Tower
Page 68
On the first floor of the congre-
gation house was the room
where the government of Ox-
ford University met. It was
also here that the "chest" was
kept, and which housed all of
the university’s books, which
one will remember were hand
written at the time and were
very rare. On the second floor
is a room which served as the
first library of the University.
The bookshelves were ar-
ranged perpendicular to the
north and south walls, and
these shelves held books
which were chained to the
shelves themselves. This is
what is meant by the phrase
"chained library." Ultimately,
the library was moved to a
purpose built room above the
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH
Library in Chains
Page 69
Divinity school, but that would not happen for a
century or two.
The church interior seems to be old in places, and
not so old in other places. The church was used for
university functions up until the time the Sheldo-
nian Theater was completed in approximately 1660.
This included graduations as well as disputations. It
was also here that the three protestant bishops were
tried and sentenced to death by fire, which took
place in front of the Balliol College. The three bish-
ops have since become known as the Protestant
Martyrs. During the trial of Archbishop Cranmer,
he recanted his earlier recantation of protestant be-
liefs, thus assuring his soon-to-be future martyr-
dom. As a matter of fact, as the fire was starting to
burn, Cranmer held his right hand in the fire first,
claiming that since it signed the recantation of his
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH
Cookin’ Up Some Bishops
Page 70
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH
The South Aisle
Page 71
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH
Fun in the Nave
Page 72
protestant beliefs that it should be the first to perish by fire. Today, a small circular area about
24 inches in diameter and marked with light colored bricks and four black bricks, forming a
cross, lays in the middle of the Broad, marking the exact spot where the three men were
burned to death. It is an event that is easy to talk about, but not so easy to think about. Imagine
the horror!
THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH
Church Details
Page 73
F rom the Upper Library at Christ
Church we proceeded to the cam-
pus of All Souls College, Oxford,
for a tour of its famous library. The
Codrington Library, built in the early 18th
century, is one of the hardest tickets to get in
Oxford, and very few people even know it
exists due to its ultra low profile and locked
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
A Beautiful Library
Page 74
gate on Catte Street. Julian had contacts there, and
had to use a code to get in the locked gate. Pretty cool!
When we entered, the staff told us that we were not
allowed to photograph the interior, but once it be-
came apparent that we were photographing, we were
not stopped, but instead told that we had to promise
not to publish the photographs on the Internet.
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
18th Century Desks
Page 75
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
A Desk and Blackstone
Page 76
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
The Anson Reading Room
Page 77
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
Lord Blackstone
Page 78
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
The Great Benefactor
Page 79
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
Sir Christopher’s Domain
Page 80
THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY
An Inviting Table
Page 81
A fter touring the Codrington Library, we took
a short walk to the campus of Worcester Col-
lege. Worcester is a very diverse college in
terms of its architecture. On the one hand, it
has a number of buildings known as the Gloucester Col-
lege Buildings. These were a part of the original Glouces-
ter College dating from the 13th century, which housed
and trained Benedictine monks from Canterbury and
other cathedrals. It is interesting to see how short the por-
tals are, reflecting the typical size of individuals 700 years
ago, which is somewhat smaller than we are today. Then
there are the new buildings of the quadrangle which date
to the early 18th century. The North Range is taken up by
a classical building, much like the New Building at Mag-
dalen College, and was probably designed and built in the
mid 18th century. On the East End of the quadrangle
there is a classical building built in the late 18th or early
19th centuries. I believe this building contains a li-
brary. To the west of the main quadrangle is a large
A College with a Lake
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
Page 82
wooded expanse which is unique to all the colleges at Ox-
ford. This wooded expanse has a number of trails, and
small bridges crossing over bubbling creeks, and a rather
large lake which makes up the far western end of the cam-
pus. It is the best kept secret in Oxford.
After the tour of Worcester College was completed, we
were dismissed and I noted that I was running late for my
tee time with Greg. I ran the mile and a half from Worces-
ter College back to The House, where I eventually hooked
up with Greg. We went to a golf course on the south side
of town known as Hinksey Heights. The golf course there
was set out over a series of giant hills, and it would have
helped to have been part billygoat. Because Greg's clubs
were custom-made, they did not work very well for me and
I shot a terrible score. After nine holes I ended the misery
and I headed back to the college to prepare for dinner.
Golf
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
Page 83
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
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WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
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As I said, on Thursday night I was scheduled from
our group to dine at high table in the hall at Christ
Church. What an experience that was! After dressing
up in a blue blazer and tie, myself and the 30 other
individuals dining at high table met in the hall for
drinks prior to dinner.
We were lead to high table and assigned our
seats. My seat was two seats away from the seat of
the master of the college, which is located in the cen-
ter of the long table. When one considers the various
High Table at the House
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
Page 86
historical personages who have dined at Christ Church in the years from 1517 through the pre-
sent, one cannot help but stand in awe of the historical significance of the place.
Because of the golf outing I was very thirsty throughout dinner, and made pretty short work of
the various bottles of spring water and sparkling water provided to us by the staff, all in cus-
tom bottled containers, which carried the Christ Church arms. Nice. We were also served all
the wine we could drink, which of course made for a fine evening. It too, was custom bottled
for Christ Church complete with the college arms on the label. My friend Greg was kind
enough to come up, get my camera and take my photograph. The picture turned out well and
I must say it is one of my most favorite pictures because of the circumstances and location.
After dinner we adjourned and I went back to my room. After reading for an hour or two I got
an incredible sweet tooth and decided to do something about it. I made my way across the
quad and across the street to an ice cream shop where I enjoyed a significant chocolate
brownie sundae. It was about 11 pm.
Friday, July 20, 2007 Hello again. Unfortunately, the caffeine in the chocolate sundae, and the
Some Very Rarified Air
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
Page 87
massive sugar infusion, kept me awake and the crash
from the sugar buzz left me all the more hungry when I
woke up in the middle of the night at about 4:30. It was
not yet raining, but there was significant rain in the
forecast. The first rain in 13 days of our trip. I was abso-
lutely starving and made my way to the McDonald's
located on Corn market Street for an early-morning bite
at 5:30. It was still not raining. After this snack, I went
back to my room and waited for breakfast in the hall.
While I was waiting for that, it started to rain, and rain,
and rain even harder, and while I sat watching the rain
cascade like West Virginia rapids down the roof of the
Meadows Building, I began to think about my career as
a lawyer and my dissatisfaction with what my law firm
had become. I came to the conclusion that it was time to
make a change. I have had the urge before, but never
followed through. I started typing my ideas on my
computer, as it slowly became daylight, and all the
while the rain kept coming, stronger and stronger. I de-
cided it was far too wet to go to class and tour a bunch
of boring buildings built in the last 50 years. Instead, I
stayed in my 200 year old room in a 500 year old build-
ing, and continued brainstorming my defection from
An Incredible Rain
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
Page 88
Adios!
WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION
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A Farewell Dinner
Hotel Mansfield
MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD
A nd while my program lasted
only one week, Beths pro-
gram at Mansfield college
lasted two weeks. I had origi-
nally planned on leaving Oxford after the
conclusion of my week, and then traveling
to both Cambridge and then the town of
Rye for some additional sightseeing and
traditional English links golf. Sadly, the
rainstorm on Friday caused massive flood-
ing throughout England and was even a
part of the national news for the very same
week that we were there. Therefore, I
could not drive, take a bus, or take a train
really anywhere outside of Oxford due to
the massive flooding. What is strange is
that being in Oxford for that tragic week,
in this section of Oxford where the univer-
sity is, we really had very little idea of how
bad it was. The river was certainly swollen
and there were no boat rides, near the uni-
versity there was no destructive flooding
of any significance.
Page 90
The Mansfield Building
and the Hall So I really had two options: I could either look for a hotel room
around Oxford for probably about $350 American per night, or
find some other place to sleep. Luckily, Beth had a second bed in
her room, and it was no problem staying there even though I felt
somewhat guilty. Not only did I get to stay there, but I had din-
ner at high table on Thursday!
Mansfield college was founded in the late 19th century as an in-
stitution for theological study outside the Church of England.
These establishments and religions of various sorts were called
“nonconforming.” Even though Mansfield was close to the doz-
ens of Oxford colleges, and even though it had a student body, it
did not become an Oxford college until just recently.
It’s buildings were designed by famous English architect named
Basil Champneys. it has one large block of classrooms library and
Hall. It then has a very large masters Lodge which is just west of
the main college building area. Directly across from the gate-
house of the principal college building is a recently built student
lodgings. This is where Beth had her rooms.
MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD
Non-Conforming College
Page 91
MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD
Mansfield Hall
Page 92
The View from Beth’s desk
MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD
Page 93
B eth and I
spent the
day explor-
ing Ox-
ford. At one point we visited Magdalen
College where we were able to view the
hall as well as the chapel. Both structures
date from approximately 1450 when the
college was first founded. The college is
filled with stone carvings of the Coat of
Arms, some of which were hundreds of
years old. We also toured the college’s
famed cloisters, which also date from the
college's founding in the mid-15th cen-
tury. We had lunch in the old kitchen,
which was the original kitchen of the hos-
pital of St. Johns, which predated Magda-
len College. It is estimated that this
kitchen was built close to 1400. It is lo-
cated on the river, and the college stretches
northward along the River Cherwell quite
a distance, enclosing a large Deer Park.
Sunday, June 23, 2007 we had planned to
take boat rides with the other members of
The Arms of Magdalen College, Oxford
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
Page 94
Beth's class. Unfortunately, due to the
amount of rain, no boat rides being of-
fered. Instead we made a quick trip to
the Botanical Garden which is across the
street from Magdalen College. However,
the admission price was rather salty and
so we did not visit the entire garden but
did see enough of it to remem-
ber. Instead, we toured the precincts of
the old university including the book-
stores and shops on The High, Cornmar-
ket, and The Broad.
That night we ate at the Pizza Hut in the
High. Believe it or not, it tasted excellent
and was a real departure from tradi-
tional English fare which we had been
eating for the prior two weeks. The Brits
are not known for their cuisine.
Monday, July 23, 2007 Beth’s classes re-
sumed and I had the run of the town. I
visited most of the colleges which were
Pizza Hut on the High
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
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Ancient Doorways
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
Page 98
open to the public. During my time in Oxford I
was able to explore Merton College, Christ
Church, Corpus Christi College, Mansfield Col-
lege, New College, All Souls College, Magdalen
College, Jesus College, Exeter College, Trinity
College, Queens College, Worcester College, and
St. Edmunds Hall. Hard to believe, but each is
unique.
I also spent some time in the Oxford public li-
brary. On the third floor was a department
which was dedicated to the various col-
leges. While I was there I read a book on the
American Rhodes Scholars which included a ref-
erence to my history teacher at Wabash, Dr.
James Barnes. He was a Rhodes Scholar in the
Views of Chapel at two different times of day; and
Hall, Magdalen College
College Crawl
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
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same class as Senator Richard Lugar. He is a notable Rhodes Scholar because of his blindness. I
visited all the medieval churches I could, soaking in the architecture and historical monu-
ments. After a while they start looking alike.
I typically ate a light lunch and, for the most part walked around all day. I probably lost 10
Kicking Around Oxford
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
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Queens College Evensong
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
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pounds while I was in Oxford. At night, while Beth was dining at Mansfield College, I usually
dined at the Mitre Inn which is also located on High Street and is one of the old medieval tav-
erns still in existence. It is actually owned by Lincoln College, which is located immediately to
the east, next-door.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007 After roaming Oxford for the day, I attended Evensong services at
Queens College, Oxford. During the service, selected high school students were given the op-
portunity to compete for the position of Organ Scholar at Queens. I am sure it comes with a
nice scholarship, not to mention the prestige of the post. During each portion of the service, a
different candidate would play the organ, which was on the balcony over the entrance to the
chapel. The chapel was built in the early 1700s and is Greco-Roman, which was a vast depar-
ture from the Gothic architecture which I most common. They claim it was designed by Wren.
Queen’s College is one of the hard ones to get in, and this was an excellent opportunity to view
the interiors and the quadrangles.
Queens College Organ Scholars
Magdalen Hall, water pump
Opposite, The New Building, Various Portals
MAGDALEN COLLEGE MAGDALEN COLLEGE
Page 102
After Evensong I went back to Mansfield
College, where I dined in hall with Beth
and members of her group at the high ta-
ble. The Mansfield hall was built in the
late 19th century and is Gothic in
style. The food was quite good, as well as
a wine and the desert. So, after two weeks
in Oxford, I can claim to dining at two
high tables, at Christ Church and Mans-
field College. Beth can claim to have dined
in three halls, including Mansfield, Christ
Church, and Pembroke College.
Friday, July 27, 2007 we awoke and began
the journey home. The train was not run-
ning to London because of the floods, and
so we made arrangements to ride the bus
Mansfield High Table with Beth
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
Page 103
from Oxford to Heathrow Airport, London
which went off without a hitch except for the
fact that while we were leaving Oxford there
was apparently some sort of mechanical diffi-
culty with the bus which required some deci-
sions being made by the bus driver as to
whether he would continue to Heathrow or
not. Fortunately for our timetable, he opted to
make the trip. When we arrived at Heathrow
we checked in and then ate at the TGI Friday's
restaurant which is located in the airport. We
departed for home at approximately 4 o'clock
London time. We landed approximately 9
hours later at seven o'clock p.m. local time in
Chicago. However, according to our clocks, it
was about three o'clock in the morning. We
were able to get our luggage and go to the Hil-
ton Hotel, which is located just inside the air-
port, where we used some of our overnight
bonus nights through the Hilton Honors
awards program. The next morning, Satur-
Back to Heathrow
Opposite: Views of Magdalen College.
This page: Punts, and the gate to The
Queen’s College
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
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THE QUEEN’S COLLEGE
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NEW COLLEGE LANE
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Magdalen College
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
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Opposite: Along the banks
of the Cherwell
This Page: Upstream;
College Portals
Magdalen College, Oxford
MAGDALEN COLLEGE
Page 108
day, we made our way downtown,
where we caught the Indiana train,
and made the trip to the Indiana
Dune's State Park. There we were met
by Beth’s mom, who took us back to
Logansport and we arrived safely, but
changed.
It was a trip, I think, that changed the
way both of us look at the world. Beth
was rejuvenated courtesy of Eli Lilly,
and I was a changed and changing
man. In many ways, I went to Eng-
land, and never came home.
.
Home
MAGDALEN COLLEGE