EXPLORING SANTA FE AND TAOS 2007 EXPLORE ANCIENT RUINS CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource Experience Our World-Class Galleries EXPLORE ANCIENT RUINS CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource Experience Our World-Class Galleries
This stylish lifestyle magizine highlights area residents, homes, entertainment and business interests of this historical northwestern New Mexico community.
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E X P L O R I N G S A N T A F E A N D T A O S
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EXPLOREANCIENT RUINS
CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate
SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource
Experience Our World-Class Galleries
EXPLOREANCIENT RUINS
CULINARY ADVENTURES To Please Any Palate
SHIDONI: A National Cultural Resource
Experience Our World-Class Galleries
2007 ENCANTADAE2
4In the Spotlight Welcome to thepublication thatembraces the cel-ebrated cities ofSanta Fe and Taos.
8Fast Facts Take a quickglimpse at five historic churchesand missions dom-inating the SantaFe / Taos scene.
12Tsankawi An easy day trip from either Santa Fe or Taosleads to the fasci-nating ruins of anancient culture.
19Pathfinders in the Arts Early artists set-tling in Taos andSanta Fe’s CanyonRoad unleashed an incredible arts movement.
20Great DiningExperiences Culinary excel-lence and diversityhave contributedto one of thegreatest diningexperiences in the nation.
22New MexicoCuisine The melding ofthree distinct cultures has produced foodunique to this border state.
24InternationalCuisine A world of diningpleasures nowcontributes to thedining scenes ofSanta Fe and Taos
26Shidoni A nationalcultural resourceprovides a unique day trip adventure.
30Fishing the Taos Box Share an angler’sadventure as he battle the big ones.
32Condé Nast®
Readers’ Choice The traveling pub-lic rates Santa Fesecond in the U.S.as a destination.
18Gallery Crawl Walking toursaccess two of the world’s top art markets.
OUR COVERAn ancient footpath worn into solidrock over centuries of time, this is thetrail at Tsankawi Ruin, featured onpage 12. Located between Santa Feand Taos, this city of caves is a unit ofBandelier National Monument and isan easy, enjoyable day trip destinationfor area residents and guests. Photo by Joe Burgess.
An incomparable combination of activities and settings define the Santa Fe–Taos experience.
The life-size bronze sculpture from artist Denny Haskew shown here at the Inn at Loretto is among the fine works at galleries throughout the region.
E5IN THE SPOTLIGHT
There is no other locale on planet Earth quite like north central
New Mexico. An incomparable combination of attractions, activi-
ties, arts and antiquities set against stunning landscapes creates an
adventure that dances among lingering spirits of the
ancient Anasazi, Spanish explorers in clanging armor and rugged
Old West pioneers.
The achievement of international acclaim has certainly chal-
lenged the region’s magical small-town charm that feeds the muses
of artists and writers, but its casual cultural lifestyle emerged intact,
continuing to be a source of envy to people of other states and
nations. Dining in five-star restaurants dressed in denim or experi-
encing an evening of world-renowned opera performed beneath a
top: Shopping Canyon Road or any of the incredible artdistricts of Santa Fe and Taos is a unique year-roundexperience. above: Taos Pueblo World Heritage Site rep-resents a thousand years of continuous occupation.
2007 ENCANTADAE6
brilliant star-studded sky, quite frankly, is the norm. Supporting the arts and anthropology or engaging in the best of
golf, skiing and horseback riding are decidedly influenced by the region’s passionate commitment to the relief of stress.
Blue skies, stunning sunsets, blankets of forest and breathtaking terrain are merely the foundation on which that way of
life revolves.
Welcome to Encantada, the magazine that embraces the celebrated cities of Santa Fe and Taos and champions the
region’s incredible lifestyle. The sheer number and diversity of the area’s activities provide literary opportunities that are
both daunting and keenly intriguing. The staff of Encantada humbly presents a glimpse into the impressive cultural
experience that has emerged from the land and the peoples of North Central New Mexico.
Join Encantada in the exploration of an easily accessible Native Puebloan ruin, step into art galleries that engage the
senses and uncover the secrets of North Central New Mexico’s culinary success. Visualize the creative process at a
nationally recognized foundry and reel in a trophy trout from Rio Grande rapids. Encantada offers you the key that opens
the door to an incredible personal journey.
Taos Ski Valley ranks among the nation’s best and the state’s highest peaks provide unforgettable outdoor Alpine opportunities.
1. The Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe houses themiraculous staircase. This awe-inspiring stair-case has two 360˚ turns and was crafted withoutany nails or visible means of support. Legendhas it that the mysterious carpenter who builtthe structure was believed by the Loretto nunsto have been St. Joseph himself.
2. St. Michael’s Mission Church in Santa Fe isAmerica’s oldest church, built between1610 and1626. The original structure was burned in 1680during the Pueblo Revolt and was orderedrebuilt in 1692 by De Vargas. Archaeologicalinvestigations of foundations beneath St. Michael’s reveal evidence of NativeAmerican occupation as early as 1300 A.D.
3. The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis in SantaFe is the home of America’s oldest Madonna,La Conquistadora or Our Lady of ConqueringLove. The statue was brought to the UnitedStates in 1610 and is housed in a small adobechapel on the northeast side of the cathedralbuilt in 1714.
4. St. Jerome Chapel at Taos Pueblo, first builtin 1619, was destroyed in the Pueblo Revolt of1680 and soon was rebuilt on the same site.The Chapel was again destroyed in 1847 bythe U.S. Army during the War with Mexico. The
5.
3. 4.
present Chapel was rebuilt at a differentlocation in the Pueblo village in 1850.
5. San Francisco de Asis Church inRanchos De Taos is the subject of morepaintings than any other structure in NewMexico. Photographers capture theshapes, angles and rich hues of theunique structure at various times of dayand seasons. Once a year Church mem-bers participate in re-mudding thechurch’s six-foot thick walls.
An easy, enjoyable and lesser-known day trip destination for Santa Fe residents and guests is the Tsankawi Ruin,
located near the town of White Rock. Post-adventure, Tsankawi’s easy accessibility and proximity to the City Different
will allow plenty of time for more sightseeing, a siesta or shopping before an evening meal at one of Santa Fe’s many
fine restaurants.
The road less traveled leads to a well-used ancient pathway.
Hikers today are fascinated by the deep footpaths at Tsankawi site near Bandalier National Monument and are awed by the vistas (opposite).
E13TSANKAWI
2007 ENCANTADAE14
above: Steps carved and worn into volcanic tuff direct visitors toward upper levels of theTsankawi site. top, right: Visitors browse through the ruin on self-guided tours.
The ruin, whose name is pronounced
“SANK-ah-wee,” is an abandoned city built by
Ancestral Pueblo people between 1300 and
1580 AD. Attesting to the veracity of its name,
which means “village between two canyons,”
Tsankawi stands among stunning views of the
surrounding canyons and mountains. Possibly
selected as a living site because its geograph-
ical location is a natural vantage point, the vil-
lage was built using a technique that makes
Tsankawi a standout among northern New
Mexico’s larger, more famous ruins.
The foundation of the village is a massive
stone outcropping formed from compressed
volcanic ash that geologists call ‘tuff.’ Tuff is
softer than other types of rock, which allowed
the villagers to actually carve out a high-rise
city. In many places there was little need to
stack rocks or build ladders. A continuous loop
path, which visitors still use today, accessed
dwellings at the base of the village. Residents
living higher on the bluff came and went from
their homes using foot- and handholds carved
into the vertical rock faces. While the only nat-
ural source of water is the river below, some
archaeologists believe the village had an elab-
orate water storage system. The people
farmed the surrounding canyons, returning to
their city in the sky at day’s end. Over the ages,
south of the stoplight.top: Tiny cave dwellings dot the sunny slope of the site.above: Picturesque Tsankawi vistas stretch across the Rio Grande Valley. opposite: Ladders aid the exploration of Tsankawi cave dwellings.
E17TSANKAWI
Jemez Mountain Trail National
Scenic Byway 800-252-0191 or
505-867-TOUR.
www.jemezmountaintrail.org/
New Mexico Tourism Department
www.nmtourism.org/
Bandelier National Monument
505-672-3861 Ext. 517.
www.nps.gov/band
A site for retreat-style meetings to the human spirit...
Georgia O’Keeffe stayed here, as well as many other notables, such as, D.H. Lawrence, Ansel Adams, Martha Graham and Carl Jung.
Santa Fe to one of the top cities in the nation for
dining and make it unique among communities of
similar size. A broad spectrum of international cui-
sine and creative New Mexico recipes and presen-
tations ensure a lifetime of dining experiences in
North Central New Mexico.
E20 2007 ENCANTADA
E21GREAT DINING EXPERIENCES
Santa Fe, with a population of only 63,000 inhabitants, has achieved a level of
culinary diversity and excellence unparalleled in cities of similar and even much
larger populations. A person could literally dine in a different restaurant seven
nights a week for a period of eight months before giving the palate a repeat
round of edible bliss. Trying every dish could easily require a lifetime.
From home cooking to haute cuisine and everything in between, Santa Fe
presents its dining experience in every setting imaginable…the rich and colorful
décor of Mexico, the orient, India or Italy…the list goes on. Seeking out restau-
rants tucked away in the city’s famous Spanish and native New Mexican architec-
ture is but the tip of the iceberg. Bakeries and bistros mingle with barbecue pits.
Delis and diners decorate the scene.
Whether your tastes run to vegan or Vietnamese, you’ll find something for
everyone in the cafés, coffee houses and restaurants of the City Different.
New Mexico-grown chile finds its way into dishes ranging from red chile huevos
rancheros to the classic green chile cheeseburger, a local favorite. Seafood and
steak, sandwiches, soups and salads continue to be popular fare. New traditions
in contemporary Southwestern cuisine are constantly being created by some of
the finest chefs in the world, and Santa Fe is nationally touted for its focus on the
culinary arts.
Many of the ingredients used in local restaurants are organically grown in nearby
farms and greenhouses, while fresh fish and other wholesome foods are flown in
daily. A number of local establishments proudly feature excellent wines from
New Mexico vintners and custom-made beers skillfully crafted at local breweries.
opposite: Fine dining in small cozy Santa Fe settings reflects the influence of theregion’s Pueblo Indian and Spanish heritage. above: Creations utilizing fresh seafood airfreighted to the city daily are comparable to any seaside location. right: Oriental cuisineand liquor are among the numerous international fares of Santa Fe.
2007 ENCANTADAE22
Across this country, a term that has become increasingly popular and less mean-
ingful in recent years is the phrase, “Mexican food.” With mass production and dis-
tribution, fast foods and the “Americanization” of recipes, “Mexican food” in the
21st century can be anything its producer says it is, so long as it involves spice
and heat.
Not so with New Mexican Cuisine – there is nothing else like it anywhere. While
the Hispanic-originated foods here share terminology with other locales, the herbs,
spices, flavors and nuances creates a singular dining experience that makes visitors
yearn to return for more.
To understand what makes our native foods special, we could perhaps best begin
by trying to shed some light on an old controversy: the word “chile” versus “chili.”
The fact is that both words can mean the same thing, or they can each mean very
different things.
Besides being the name of a South American country, a chile is the fruit of a
pepper plant called genus Capsicum. The use of these chiles rather than jalapeno
peppers or cumin is an important factor that sets New Mexican food apart from
Mexican, Tex-Mex or Mexican-Californian. Although varieties have been
developed for specialized use as red or green, the green chiles roasting over an
open flame are generally the same as the red chiles comprising the colorful
NEW MEXICO CUISINE
Every Santa Fe restaurant is a gallery of fine dining and artwork.
Your host, Lino Pertusini, from Lake Como,
and staff, invite you to experience authentic
regional Italian cuisine, and extensive wine list,
great cocktails, world class service in an elegant
mold. Its skilled craftspeople specialize in enlargement, mold making, lost wax cast-
ing, fabrication in a variety of metals, patina, bases, sculpture mounting, installation
and handling. The foundry maintains an openness that allows visiting artists to come
to Shidoni and work on their creations in a personalized environment. Many of the
works are done on a grand scale; for example, “Chisholm Trail” by Paul Moore is 34
feet long and features six life-size longhorn cattle and two cowboys on horseback. It
is installed at Clinton, OK.
“Having been in the casting business for 36 years, our challenge is keeping every-
thing fresh and demanding,” said Scott Hicks, president of Shidoni, Inc. “Our staff is
always eager to take on new adventures. Our gallery has won a people’s choice award
from the local newspaper called Best Gallery in Santa Fe.”
In addition to the sculpture garden, there are actually two galleries here: the Bronze
Gallery and the Shidoni Arts Gallery, both open Mon.-Sat. from 9 to 5. Visiting hours
at the foundry are weekdays 12-1 and Saturdays 9-5. Bronze is cast on Saturday after-
noons at 1:00, 2:45 and 4:00. Phone 505-988-8001. www.shidoni.com
opposite: Shidoni Foundry poured the 500 castings utilized in The Equestrian, the largestbronze equestrian sculpture in the world, located at the entrance to the El Paso InternationalAirport. left: Shidoni’s bronze gallery/sculpture garden offer the largest selection of contem-porary sculpture in the Southwest. above: Saturday visitors can watch the casting of 2000degree bronze into molds for fine art creations.
Beginning just below the Colorado border, the Rio Grande Gorge runs for some 90 miles to the town of Velarde where
the river begins to open and spread into farm country. It soon becomes a warm water catfish and carp fishery, when it
has water at all, but through that 90-mile canyon run it is famed for trout and the occasional monster northern pike. A
brief description of two adjacent locales I’m familiar with, in roughly the middle of the canyon, give us a look at what
you may find in The Gorge.
Just south of the town of Questa is a public trail that will take you down nearly 1000 feet to the confluence of the Red
River. Here the Rio Grande is a run of classic pocket water formed by huge basalt boulders. Wading and rock hopping
The 90-mile Rio Grande Gorge provides some of the most exciting fishing experiences in New Mexico.
By M.H. “Dutch” Salmon
E31FISHING THE TAOS BOX
is tricky and the browns, rainbows and cut-bows
cagey enough that next time there I will use a
strike indicator; without one these furtive trout will
tap your fly and discard it without you ever know-
ing you had a bite. These are often wild trout, and
while a foot-long is common, 20” trout are lurking
in the cover of those boulders on the edge of
the currents.
The next town south is Taos and near here you
may access the John Dunne Bridge by vehicle.
The river here is wider, more open, and slower. It’s
easier to get to, and to fish, which means more
fishermen, but it is well stocked with rainbows and
a wild lunker brown is still possible. On my visit I
caught more trout here than amongst the boul-
ders upstream but still preferred the Red River
confluence for its “wild” feel.
What works? You may luck into a variety of
mayfly or caddis hatches that call for a dry fly
approach; other times – indeed anytime –
nymphs and wooly buggers will always stand a
chance.
For more info on fishing The Gorge, near Taos
and elsewhere, I recommend Fly Fisher’s Guide to
New Mexico by Van Beacham.top: Brown, rainbow, and cut-bow trout inhabit the Taos Box and an occasionalmonster Northern Pike. above: Foot-long wild trout are common but the possibilityof a 20” trout lurking under a boulder keeps the adrenaline pumping.