An Outdoor Room WRITER: BILL LAHAY. ILLUSTRATOR: ROXANNE LEMOINE. PROJECT DESIGNER: JENI HILPIPRE-WRIGHT. To make the garden structure featured on the cover of this issue, follow these instructions. ® 12 wood stakes (18–24 inches long) ® Four cardboard tube concrete forms, 12- inch diameter, 4 feet long* ® 20 bags ready-mix concrete, 80 pounds each* ® Four metal post base brackets with fasteners* ® 1 cubic yard crushed rock or pea gravel ® 12 pieces 1×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for window frames) ® Three pieces 4×4 (nominal) pressure-treated pine, 8 feet long (for part A) ® 22 pieces 4×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for parts B–L) ® Two pieces 2×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for part M) ® Two barn sash windows (22×29 inches) or equivalent (optional) ® Three barn sash windows (22×41 inches) or equivalent (optional) ® One package 5d (1 3 ⁄ 4-inch) galvanized finishing nails ® Thirty 3 ⁄ 8×6-inch lag screws with flat washers ® One package No. 10×3-inch deck screws ® 10 sheets corrugated galvanized steel roof panels, 25×72 inches ® One galvanized cap/ridge flashing, 8 feet long ® One package washer-head screws (for metal roof panels) ® One package No. 6×1 5 ⁄ 8-inch deck screws ® 1 gallon exterior-grade clear wood sealer (or semitransparent stain) *Optional: recommended for high-wind areas or where required by code ¸ materials ® Tape rule ® Hammer ® Posthole digger (if placing concrete piers) ® Builder’s level (4 feet or longer) ® Trenching shovel ® Carpenter’s pencil ® Angle square or combination square ® Portable circular saw ® Table saw ® Wood chisel (1 inch or larger) ® Drill with 3 ⁄ 16- and 3 ⁄ 8-inch bits ® Drill bit, 12 inches long, 1 ⁄ 4-inch diameter ® Ratchet driver with 9 ⁄ 16-inch socket ® 12-inch power miter saw ® No. 2 Phillips screwdriver or driver bit ® Two stepladders (8 feet) ® Paintbrushes ¸ tools PAge 34 Skill level: Beginning woodworker Time to complete: One weekend (allow additional time if you include concrete footings) Estimated cost: $1,200 (with footings) Get Going First, select a site that is reasonably level, and drive a wood stake at each corner (each wall measures 93 inches). To ensure a square footprint, adjust the stakes until the diagonals measure the same length (131 1 ⁄ 2 inches). If you live in a windy area or your local code requires concrete footings for a structure this size, dig holes for four concrete piers under the side walls as shown on page 94. Level the cardboard forms in the holes, fill with mixed concrete, and insert a post base bracket in each while the concrete is wet. For our project, we also trenched for the sides and back wall so the sill plates would nest flush with the ground. Use the trench digger to dig the trenches several inches deeper and wider than necessary, then add crushed rock or pea gravel to the trenches to improve drainage. Let the concrete footings cure for at least three days. Build the Window Frames Although the window assemblies are installed later in the process, building them first lets you space the beams and collar ties correctly. The finished window frame sizes will depend on the window sash you buy. For the frame stock, use the circular saw to cut 1×4 cedar boards to the required lengths and attach them to the sash as shown in the Window Assembly Detail illustration, above. Then use a table saw to rip the extra 1×4 stock into do it guide DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 93
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An Outdoor RoomWRiteR: Bill lahay. illustRAtOR: Roxanne lemoine. PROject designeR: Jeni hilpipRe-wRight.
To make the garden structure featured on the cover of this issue, follow these instructions.
concrete piers)®Builder’s level (4 feet or longer)®Trenching shovel®Carpenter’s pencil®Angle square or combination square®Portable circular saw®Table saw®Wood chisel (1 inch or larger)®Drill with 3⁄16- and 3⁄8-inch bits®Drill bit, 12 inches long,
1⁄4-inch diameter®Ratchet driver with 9⁄16-inch socket®12-inch power miter saw®No. 2 Phillips screwdriver or
driver bit®Two stepladders (8 feet)®Paintbrushes
¸ toolsPAge 34
Skill level: Beginning woodworkerTime to complete: One weekend (allow additional time if you include concrete footings)Estimated cost: $1,200 (with footings)
get goingFirst, select a site that is reasonably level, and drive
a wood stake at each corner (each wall measures
93 inches). To ensure a square footprint, adjust the
stakes until the diagonals measure the same length
(131 1⁄2 inches). If you live in
a windy area or your local code requires concrete
footings for a structure this size, dig holes for four
concrete piers under the side walls as shown on
page 94. Level the cardboard forms in the holes, fill
with mixed concrete, and insert a post base
bracket in each while the concrete is wet. For our
project, we also trenched for the sides and back
wall so the sill plates would nest flush with the
ground. Use the trench digger to dig the trenches
several inches deeper and wider than necessary,
then add crushed rock or pea gravel to the
trenches to improve drainage. Let the concrete
footings cure for at least three days.
Build theWindow FramesAlthough the window assemblies are installed later
in the process, building them first lets you space
the beams and collar ties correctly. The finished
window frame sizes will depend on the window
sash you buy. For the frame stock, use the circular
saw to cut 1×4 cedar boards to the required
lengths and attach them to the sash as shown in
the Window Assembly Detail illustration, above.
Then use a table saw to rip the extra 1×4 stock into
do it guide
DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 93
3⁄4-inch molding strips and attach them as shown,
using 5d finishing nails. Set aside for now.
cut and Assemblethe Wall FramesStart by cutting the sill plates (A) to length;
because they rest directly on
the ground, these timbers should be pressure-
treated pine rated for ground-contact use. Then
cut the other frame parts (B–D) to length. For the
top wall plates (D), mark the half-lap notches as
shown in the Half-Lap Joint Detail illustration,
opposite, and use the portable circular saw to
make multiple cuts in the notch portion. Break
away the waste material with a hammer, then use a
chisel to pare the surface flat and smooth. Note
that these end notches are the same for all four
top plates, but are oriented differently—set the
front and rear plates with the notch faceup and
the side plates with the notch facedown.
On each corner post (B), mark the locations for
the sill plates (A) and crossbeams (C). The vertical
distance between the two beams should equal the
height of the taller window assemblies. On a flat
surface, such as a patio or driveway, fit together
parts A–C of one side wall. Use the 12-inch-long
B
C
E
D
A
L
F
G
HJ
K
M
AA
BB
B
B
B
C
C
C
C
C
D
D
D
DD
D
F
F
F
HJ
K
L
Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing
3/8" lag screws6" long
Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels
(6' long)
Window frame of1 x 4" cedar
M
3" deck screws
3/8" lag screw6" long at
corner posts
B
No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints
3/8" lag screw6" long at corners
Window frames(1x4" cedar)
Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)
Post-base bracketembedded
in concrete pier
Note: Concrete piers optional.
BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES
ROOF ASSEMBLY
D
45o bevelon part M
Half-laps
M
45o
11/2"
31/2"
END VIEW DETAIL
An Outdoor Room1x4" cedar Wood frame
barn sash
3/4 x 3/4" cedar molding
#6 x 15/8" deck screw
5d finishing nails
WINDOW ASSEMBLY DETAIL
B
C
E
D
A
L
F
G
HJ
K
M
AA
BB
B
B
B
C
C
C
C
C
D
D
D
DD
D
F
F
F
HJ
K
L
Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing
3/8" lag screws6" long
Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels
(6' long)
Window frame of1 x 4" cedar
M
3" deck screws
3/8" lag screw6" long at
corner posts
B
No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints