Edinburgh

DAY 1

In order to get ahead of the crowds, start your day at Edinburgh Castle when it opens at

9.30am to see the Scottish Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny. Afterwards, you can follow

the Royal Mile on foot to explore various quirky shops, pubs, restaurants and narrow closes

steeped in history.

If you want to get an idea of what you are seeing as you go, there are a wide range of

walking, cycling and bus tours available.

Jump aboard one of the open-top tour buses where the fantastic onboard guides will supply

an entertaining and knowledgeable insight into this fascinating city (multi-language tours are

available). The buses will allow you to jump on and off at your leisure to visit attractions like

the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Edinburgh Dungeon and the Scottish

Parliament and provide a great introduction to the city.

There are plenty of cafés and eating places scattered around the city centre for a quick lunch.

If you’ve spent the morning in the Old Town area (and you could easily spend several days

there), cross North Bridge to the other part of Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site, the

Georgian New Town.

Later on, head back to the Royal Mile for a meal in one of Edinburgh’s many international or

Scottish restaurants followed by a walking ghost tour.

DAY 2

From Princes Street in the city centre, it’s a short number 22 Lothian Bus ride to The Royal

Yacht Britannia, which is now docked permanently at Ocean Terminal in Leith. After the

tour, take some time to explore the Port of Leith, one of the most fashionable areas to live in

Edinburgh.

If you’re feeling energetic, climb Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. Last active over 300 million

years ago, this extinct volcano is one of the best vantage points over the city. For a gentler

walk, why not take a stroll around the National Museum of Scotland, which reopened in

2011 after a refurbishment which has allowed it to now display over 20,000 exhibits in 36

galleries?

If you dined in the Old Town last night, try something different around George Street tonight.

One of the city’s main eating areas, there are restaurants to suit all tastes here.

DAY 3

Stroll up the Royal Mile and pay a visit to the fascinating Camera Obscura and World of

Illusions which has captivated visitors with its amazing optical illusions and panoramic views

of Edinburgh for over 150 years. Step inside a darkened room and watch incredible live

moving images of the city and its inhabitants projected onto a table by a giant periscope while

listening to colourful tales from the past.

Not far away, Scotland’s national drink is honoured at the Scotch Whisky

Experience where you can sample a dram at the end of your tour. Enjoy a barrel ride to

learn all about the whisky-making process and see the world’s largest collection of Scotch

whisky. Why not stop for lunch at the Amber Restaurant which offers traditional Scottish

produce?

Once you’ve recharged your batteries head down to Princes Street and George Street, the

ideal destinations for some retail therapy. If shopping is not your thing, spend the afternoon

touring the Royal Botanic Garden with its wonderful glasshouses, exhibitions and a world of

colourful plants and shrubs.

In the evening, explore this UNESCO City of Literature on the Edinburgh Literary Pub

Tour or head to the Shore in Leith, a fashionable and picturesque coastal area with a wide

selection of bars and restaurants that serve fresh fish caught from the surrounding waters.

SCOTLAND

This two day tour will let you explore some of Scotland’s most popular

sights; go monster spotting by Loch Ness and see some spectacular

scenery. This really is essential Scotland!

Day One

Waterfalls and a Bonnie Prince

Departing from Edinburgh and Glasgow we make our way to Bonnie Perthshire, a

land of scenic valleys, remote glens, rushing rivers and peaceful lochs. We will

make a stop amidst this wonderful scenery when we visit Dunkeld. After time for

morning coffee why not visit the attractive cathedral   ruins, which sit on the banks

of the River Tay?

A short drive will take us to The Hermitage, one of the most picturesque

landscapes in Scotland. Here we have a relaxing walk through spectacularly large

Douglas Firs to an amazing folly, Ossian's Hall, that overlooks the pretty Black

Linn waterfall.

There are fine views of Blair Castle, the seat of the Dukes of Atholl – the only man

allowed to have their own private army, The Atholl Highlanders. Wild mountain

vistas surround us as we start our ascent of the Drumochter Pass, the main route

into the highlands since the earliest of times.

The Cairngorm National Parkis an area of stunning natural beauty, as we will

discover. As we journey through the Spey Valley the Cairngorm Mountains, which

rise to over 4000 feet, provide a striking backdrop.

Desolate Culloden Moorwas the site of the last battle ever fought on British soil.

The Jacobite troops of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the British Army under the

command of the Duke of Cumberland clashed here in 1746. The Jacobites were

routed in a bloody battle and the aftermath changed Highland life forever. We'll

make a stop so that you can discover more about the battle and the dramatic

consequences that followed (optional).

A short drive will take us to Inverness, the Capital of the Highlands, and then to

our accommodation nestling by the banks of mysterious Loch Ness.

Overnight: Drumnadrochit

Day Two

Monsters and Massacres

After a hearty breakfast there's much to enjoy in our Highland sourroundings.

Why not visit the Loch Ness 2000 Exhibition to discover the story behind the

area's most famous resident or mount your own "Nessie" spotting expedition

when you take a sail on the loch to visit nearby Urquhart Castle (optional)?

We travel along the banks of Loch Ness to the attractive village of Fort Augustus.

Our drive through the Great Glen provides us with wonderful loch-side views as

we travel to Fort William, which sits in the shadow of Ben Nevis.

Brooding Glen Coe is next. The outstanding beauty of this place belies the tragic

tale that we'll hear next. Gather round as our guide takes us back to 1692 and

tells the story of the Massacre of Glen Coe when Campbell soldiers slaughtered 40

MacDonalds who had been their hosts. This infamous deed remains controversial

to this very day.

All too soon Glen Coe is left behind and we travel over remote and barren

Rannoch Moor. This unspoilt landscape extends over 50 square miles and is one

of the most unspoilt areas in Europe. Our descent of the "Black Mount" provides

excellent views over Loch Tulla before we make a stop in the little Highland

village of Tyndrum.

The final part of our journey together will take us through Rob Roy

McGregor country to the bonnie little village of Strathyre. As we negotiate the

Pass of Lenny we move from the Highlands back into the Lowlands. The final part

of our journey will take us along the "bonnie, bonnie banks" of Loch Lomond to

Glasgow from where we join the motorway for the short journey back to

Edinburgh and journey's end.

National Museum of Scotland (1 on map)

This recently refurbished but still appealingly eccentric palace of wonder is a mad dash through the

history of the world and everything in it — both natural and man-made. More than 800 objects make up

the mind-boggling installation that is the Window on the World in the Grand Gallery, but I always first

pay a visit to the utterly charming, completely barmy Lewis Chessmen. There are interactive galleries to

keep children of all ages happy, free tours and Family Footprint Trails to make exploration more

exciting. When it all gets a bit much, stop for a giant scone in the Balcony Cafe or treat yourself to lunch

or tea in the glamorous (and correspondingly pricey) rooftop Tower Restaurant.

This appealingly eccentric palace of wonder is a mad dash through the history of the world and everything in it. 

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Address: Chambers Street, EH1 1JFGetting there: bus to George IV Bridge (23, 27, 41, 42, 67) or Chambers Street (35, 45)Contact: 0300 123 6789; nms.ac.uk   Opening times: daily, 10am-5pmPrice: Free 

Arthur’s Seat (2)

No one knows how this extinct volcano in Holyrood Park got its name, but die-hard romantics think it was the location of Camelot. It's 251 metres high, but if you have enough puff and the right footwear it is a relatively easy climb. I like to start opposite the Palace of Holyroodhouse car park and follow the Radical Road path — paved in 1820 by unemployed weavers — past Salisbury Crags. Take in the ruins of St Anthony’s Chapel

before the steep climb to the rocky summit with its incredible views. Follow marked routes (maps available at the Holyrood Park Information Centre in Horsewynd) and pay attention to signs telling you where not to walk — it might be crowded with walkers of every description, but can still be dangerous.

No one knows how this extinct volcano in Holyrood Park got its name, but die-hard romantics think it was the location of Camelo. 

Address: Arthur's Seat, EH8Getting there: bus to Holyrood (35, 6)Price: freeThe Scottish Parliament (3)

Whether you consider it an over-priced blot on the landscape or an architectural triumph, Catalonian architect Enric Miralles’ controversial but award-winning building at the bottom of The Royal Mile will always start a debate. You can buy parliamentary shortbread in the gift shop or have a coffee while playing spot the politician in the Parliament Café. There is a permanent exhibition about the Scottish Parliament, free guided tours (booking recommended) are on offer, and, if you are keen to see politics in action, you can book tickets to attend committee meetings or debates. Possibilities are complicated by whether or not Parliament is sitting, so it is best to check the website if you are planning a visit.

Catalonian architect Enric Miralles’ controversial but award-winning building at the bottom of The Royal Mile will always start a debate. 

Address: Canongate, EH99 1SPGetting there: bus to Holyrood (35, 36)Contact: 0131 348 5200; scottish.parliament.ukOpening times: Mon, Fri, Sat, 10am-5pm; Tue, Wed, Thu, 9am-6.30pm. Check website for opening times when Parliament is in recessPrice: free 

Dunbars Close (4)

It is easy to miss the entrance to this drowsily peaceful hidden garden, a few steps off The Royal Mile just past Canongate Kirk. Created by the visionary Sir Patrick Geddes as one of a network of Old Town gardens, it was immaculately restored in the late 1970s. A beautifully kept recreation of a 17th-century garden, it is a series of small, delightfully private rooms. If it’s fine, cross the street, walk up the close opposite, and turn right on Holyrood Road. A few steps along you will find Foodies at Holyrood (foodiesatholyrood.com), where you can hire a picnic basket to fill with good things, and a rug which you can spread on one of the tiny lawns at the very end of the garden.

A beautifully kept recreation of a 17th-century garden, it is a series of small, delightfully private rooms. 

Address: Canongate, High Street, EH8 8BWGetting there: bus to Holyrood (35, 36)Opening times: dawn to duskPrice: freeStockbridge (5)

Only a ten-minute walk from Princes Street and almost entirely sufficient unto itself, Stockbridge is the kind of neighbourhood we all wished we lived in. Cosier and more domestic than the New Town, it nevertheless has some deliciously pretty streets and squares. There is a great choice of fantastic (and unusual) shops, galleries, cafés, bars and restaurants; lovely Inverleith Park with the west gate of the Royal Botanic Gardens just across the road; the Water of Leith to walk by; and more hairdressers than I have ever seen in one place in my life. Spend an hour or two having a wander, then settle in for a drink and a meal, or shop and eat your way round the Sunday market (stockbridgemarket.com) - and remember to bring a bag or two for all the good things you’ll find to take home. 

Stockbridge is the kind of neighbourhood we all wished we lived in. 

Address: 10 minutes' walk north of Princes Street, to the west of the New TownGetting there: bus to Stockbridge (24, 29, 36, 42)Price: freeRoyal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (6)

At the first sign of a sunny day it feels as if all Edinburgh heads to this deliriously tranquil space, only 15 minutes’ walk from the city centre, but somehow never crowded. With 70 acres of trees, shrubs, rare plants and specialist gardens, it’s easy to happily lose yourself. If it rains, shelter in the gloriously steamy Victorian Palm House (the tallest in Britain), although I like to hide in the seashell and pinecone decorated stone pavilion in the Queen Mother’s Memorial Garden. There are guided garden walks from the John Hope Gateway and exhibitions in 18th-century Inverleith House. The Gatehouse Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and tea, or eat outdoors at the self-service Terrace Cafe.

With 70 acres of trees, shrubs, rare plants and specialist gardens, it’s easy to happily lose yourself. 

Address: entrances on Inverleith Row (East Gate) and Arboretum Place (West Gate and John Hope Gateway)Getting there: Bus to Inverleith - East Gate (8, 23, 27)Contact: 0131 248 2909; rbge.org.uk   Opening times: daily: Nov-Jan, 10am-4pm; Feb, Oct, 10am-5pm; Mar-Sep, 10am-6pmPrice: garden: free. Glasshouse: £4.50; over 60s, students, £4; children aged 5-16, £1.10; family ticket (two adults and up to four children), £10Payment type: credit cards acceptedSt Giles’ Cathedral (7)

The distinctive crown spire of this great church marks the historic heart of The Royal Mile. Despite the ponderous piers supporting the tower of the much-altered but essentially Gothic High Kirk of Edinburgh, the soaring interior of this ancient church is flooded with light. Stained glass only came to this ‘Cradle of Presbyterianism’ in the late 19th century — Reformation leader John Knox would have been very unhappy to see the colourful window in the south wall dedicated to him. Look out for the volunteer guides who will answer your questions, show you around and tell you some fascinating stories.

The soaring interior of this ancient church is flooded with light. 

Address: St Giles’ Cathedral, EH1 1REGetting there: bus to George IV Bridge (23, 27, 41, 42, 67)Contact: 0131 225 9442; stgilescathedral.org.ukOpening times: May-Sep: Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm; Sat, 9am-5pm; Sun, 1pm-5pm. Oct-Apr: Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm; Sun, 1pm-5pmPrice: free (though visitors are invited to make a £3 donation) 

St Mary’s Cathedral (8)

Often overlooked, this triple-spired West End cathedral — Scotland’s largest — was designed by George Gilbert Scott. A celebration of Victorian Gothic Revival, it perhaps surprisingly has unashamedly modern stained glass by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, one of the founders of British Pop Art. Highly recommended, especially for the heavenly Phoebe Anna Traquair murals in the Song School which have recently been restored. There are free guided tours of the Song School and the murals in August; at other times they can be seen by appointment.

Often overlooked, this triple-spired West End cathedral — Scotland’s largest — was designed by George Gilbert Scott. 

Address: Palmerston Place, EH12 5AWGetting there: bus to Haymarket Terrace (12, 26, 31, 48)Contact: 0131 225 6293; cathedral.netOpening times: visitors welcome throughout the day, every day (but no walking around or photography during services)Price: freeGreyfriars (9)

Almost everyone knows the story of Bobby, the faithful little dog who remained by his master’s grave for 14 years. His statue is at the top of Candlemaker’s Row, opposite the gates of Greyfriars, the first reformed church in Scotland. The kirk, museum and shop are open from April to October, with volunteer guides to show visitors around, but be sure to check the website calendar as sometimes they are closed for special events. Next to the church is (apparently) the most haunted graveyard in Edinburgh, complete with bad-tempered poltergeist — visitors report fainting or being scratched, bruised or bitten. Most people visit on ghost tours, but during the day I find Greyfriars' churchyard a lovely place just to sit, gazing at the remains of the medieval Flodden Wall and wondering if I know anyone who would look good in a wimple.

Almost everyone knows the story of Bobby, the faithful little dog who remained by his master’s grave for 14 years. 

Address: 1 Greyfriars, EH1 2QQGetting there: bus to Grassmarket (2) or George IV Bridge (23, 27, 41, 42, 67) or Chambers Steet (35, 45)Contact: 0131 225 1900; greyfriarskirk.comOpening times: church and museum: Apr-Jun, Sep, Oct, Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pm, Sat, 11am-2pm; Jul, Aug, Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4.30pm, Sat, 11am-4pm (but check website calendar as the Kirk may be closed for special events). Churchyard: always open                  Price: freeScottish National Gallery (10)

Cultural indigestion isn’t an issue at this manageably-sized gallery housing the national collection of fine art. Old Masters, a good selection of Impressionists and Post-Impressionists and a proudly comprehensive collection of Scottish art — including Scotland’s favourite painting, The Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch — are on show, as well as world-class temporary exhibitions. Originally two buildings, the galleries are now connected by the sleek Gardens Entrance overlooking Princes Street Gardens. You can shop, eat and attend free 45-minute lunchtime lectures. A useful free Gallery Bus runs between the Scottish National Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.

Originally two buildings, the galleries are now connected by the sleek Gardens Entrance overlooking Princes Street Gardens. 

Address: The Mound, EH2 2ELGetting there: bus to Princes Street (multiple services) or Gallery BusContact: 0131 624 6200; nationalgalleries.orgOpening times: Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun, 10am-5pm (6pm in August); Thu, 10am-7pmPrice: free (though there can be a charge for special exhibitions) 

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (11)

Scotland's national collection of modern art occupies two buildings unimaginatively re-named Modern One and Modern Two. They are set in beautiful grounds containing Charles Jencks’ extraordinary Landform and sculptures by Henry Moore. Cubist, Expressionist, post-war and contemporary art are well represented, although I could easily spend all my time looking at the fascinatingly chaotic recreation of Scottish artist Eduardo Paolozzi’s studio in Modern Two. You may wish to linger in the Café Modern One's garden terrace, or the more formal Café Modern Two, which serves a particularly good afternoon tea under the steely gaze of a seven-metre-tall sculpture of Vulcan. A useful free Gallery Bus runs between the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art and the Scottish National Gallery.

Scotland's national collection of modern art occupies two buildings unimaginatively re-named Modern One and Modern Two. 

Address: 75 Belford Road, EH4 3DRGetting there: bus to Ravelston Dykes (13) or Gallery BusContact: 0131 624 6200; nationalgalleries.orgOpening times: daily, 10am-5pm (6pm in August)Price: free (though there can be a charge for special exhibitions)Payment type: credit cards acceptedWater of Leith Walkway (12)

There are always six naked men standing in the Water of Leith — they are cast-iron sculptures by artist Antony Gormley. This designated urban wildlife site has woods and wildflowers, herons, kingfishers and roe deer. Recently, a pair of otters has been spotted on the hidden 12-mile walkway from Balerno to Leith docks. There are plenty of access points, but the section I walk most often starts at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre in Slateford. From there, head towards Leith, passing through charming Dean Village with its converted mills and a dramatic Thomas Telford bridge, then past elegant St Bernard’s Well to Stockbridge or Canonmills where you can catch buses back to Princes Street. You can buy useful downloadable maps and a new audio trail on the Water of Leith Conservation Trust website.

There are always six naked men standing in the Water of Leith — they are cast-iron sculptures by artist Antony Gormley. 

Address: 24 Lanark Road, EH14 1TQGetting there: bus to Slateford (33, 44)Contact: 0131 455 7367; waterofleith.org.ukOpening times: visitor Centre: daily, 10am-4pmPrice: freePayment type: credit cards acceptedCalton Hill (13)

Rising abruptly at the east end of Princes Street, this monumental mason’s dream of a hill is a magnet to photographers and Festival fireworks-watchers. The most immediately recognisable building is the National Monument, intended as a tribute to the Scottish soldiers who fell in the Napoleonic Wars. This unfinished mini-Parthenon was nicknamed ‘the Scottish Disgrace’ (the project ran out of money), but reinforces Edinburgh’s claim to be the Athens of the North. The views from the top of the Nelson Monument are astonishing — don’t forget your camera and try to time your 143-step climb for when the white ball drops down the mast, signalling the one o’clock gun at the Castle.

The views from the top of the Nelson Monument are astonishing. 

Address: at the east end of Princes Street; access from Regent Road on the south side, or Royal Terrace from the northGetting there: bus to Princes Street (multiple services)Opening times: always open. Nelson Monument: Apr-Sep, Mon-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun noon-5pm; Oct- Mar, Mon-Sat, 10am-3pmPrice: free. Nelson Monument: £4Payment type: credit cards acceptedLeith (14)

Leith is an independent place. It officially merged with Edinburgh only in 1920, with most locals very much against the idea. Still a working port, it has always had a Jekyll and Hyde character — imposing merchants’ houses mixed with Dickensian tenements, warehouses and sailors’ dives. Notorious for crime and infamous for its red light district, Leith has moved up in the world since its Trainspotting days. Now it is home to Michelin-starred restaurants, boutique hotels, smart bars and new galleries. But despite the respectability conferred by the recent addition of the Royal Yacht Britannia at Ocean Terminal and the Scottish Government at Victoria Quay, it is still rough enough round the edges to make things interesting. Visit the Trinity House Maritime Museum at the foot of Leith Walk, before continuing along Constitution Street to the Shore where you are sure to find the perfect bar or café.

Notorious for crime and infamous for its red light district, Leith has moved up in the world since its Trainspotting days. 

Address: north of the city centre on the shores of the Firth of ForthGetting there: bus to the Foot of the Walk, Constitution Street or Ocean Terminal (multiple services)Price: freeScotlandsPeople Centre (15)

A cosy new name for two very grand buildings — Register House and New Register House — that are the user-friendly repository of the people of Scotland’s past. If you are curious about your Scottish ancestry, the free two-hour taster sessions are a compelling introduction. You will receive instruction and assistance, but be warned, it’s an additive pastime. Further searches can be carried out for a daily fee, and you can pay for assisted searches. Take a break in the smart café or better still, a wander in the lovely Archivists’ Garden, cleverly designed in apparently random patterns to represent the way the brain looks and memory works. Even if you think have little interest in genealogy, you will find yourself curiously moved by the experience.

If you are curious about your Scottish ancestry, the free two-hour taster sessions are a compelling introduction. 

Address: 2 Princes Street, EH1 3YYGetting there: buses to Princes Street (multiple services)Contact: 0131 314 4300; scotlandspeoplehub.gov.ukOpening times: Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm. The free two-hour taster sessions run from 10am and 2pmPrice: free