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Hello, In this instructable I will show you how to make a very low cost, lightweight
3D printer. This 3D printer is about the same size of the printrbot simple, but has a
bigger print bed at 6x 5.5x 4 Inches, weighs less than the printrbot simple at about
5.1 pounds, the printrbot simple weighs around 7 pounds.
New instructions should be much easier to follow and I've included more photos.
***Please vote for this Instructable in the CNC challenge (upper right
corner)! I'm 13 and I designed and built this myself so please, if you like this
instructable favourite, vote and comment. It encouages me to keep doing
what I do. If you really want to help me, please share this project with your
friends that might like this instructable***
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FIL/BZP6/I8CVWM5L/FILBZP6I8CVWM5L.LARGE.jpg)
About This Instructable
License:19,970 views
379 favorites
appleman123987
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This is the second version of my 3D printer. I've made a V2.0 because my last 3d
printer instructable was very popular, receiving over 125 000 views and almost
1500 likes! If you want to check out 1.0 here is the link:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an...
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an-affordable-open-source-3D-
print/)
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Step 1: Parts and Tools
(/member/appleman123987/)
(/member/appleman123987/)
Next Level Prototypes(http://nextlevelprototypes.com/Home/)
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Just a 13 year old maker, hacker andinventor. Instagram: zachsousa123987
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Bio:
(/id/Edge-3D-Printer-an-affordable-open-source-3D-print)
(/id/Planterbot-The-Plant-Monitoring-Robot)
(/id/Single-Servo-Robotic-Gripper)
More by appleman123987
CNC (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-
cnc/)
3D (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-3d/)
3D printer (/tag/type-id/category-
technology/keyw ord-3d+printer/)
edge (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-
edge/)
appleman123987 (/tag/type-id/category-
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technology/keyw ord-arduino/)
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Tags:
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Related
See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9Q/C9MC/I8CVWOAC/F9QC9MCI8CVWOAC.LARGE.jpg)
fdm/)
Stepper motors (/tag/type-id/category-
technology/keyw ord-stepper+motors/)
RAMPS (/tag/type-id/category-technology/keyw ord-
ramps/)
electronic (/tag/type-id/category-
technology/keyw ord-electronic/)
Edge 3D Printer 1.0 - an
affordable open source
3D printer!
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-
3D-Printer-an-affordable-Make a super cheap 3D
printer using recycled
parts
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-
a-super-cheap-3D-printer-DIY delta 3D printer using
low cost recycled parts
(http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-
delta-3D-printer-using-
low-cost-recycled-parts/?Single Servo Robotic
Gripper
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Single-
Servo-Robotic-Gripper/?
utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-Arduino Rover
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-
Rover/?
utm_source=base&utm_medium=related-
instructables&utm_campaign=related_test)
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Parts:
GT2 pulley x2: http://tinyurl.com/qc4m6ez (http://tinyurl.com/qc4m6ez)
GT2 Belt (about 2m): http://tinyurl.com/nr6wn25 (http://tinyurl.com/nr6wn25)
USB type b to type b extender x1: http://tinyurl.com/ohcmybf
(http://tinyurl.com/ohcmybf)
DC power socket x1: http://tinyurl.com/nwe8lv5 (http://tinyurl.com/nwe8lv5)
LM8UU Linear Bearing x4: http://tinyurl.com/n98ehwv (http://tinyurl.com/n98ehwv)
Acrylic x3 8"x12" (You can also buy it from a local plastics shop and it is about the
same price as aliexpress): http://tinyurl.com/k4bzjge (http://tinyurl.com/k4bzjge)
30mm Fan x2: http://tinyurl.com/nqxgg8d (http://tinyurl.com/nqxgg8d)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9D/H4M5/I8CVWOGU/F9DH4M5I8CVWOGU.LARGE.jpg)
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3d printer wiring pack: http://tinyurl.com/o8mont4 (http://tinyurl.com/o8mont4)
Direct Drive gear x1: http://tinyurl.com/on5sr2p (http://tinyurl.com/on5sr2p)
608 bearings x1 lot of 5: http://tinyurl.com/kqo2lpg (http://tinyurl.com/kqo2lpg)
M3 8mm screws x1 lot of 50: http://tinyurl.com/kz48fcp (http://tinyurl.com/kz48fcp)
5mm to 8mm coupler x1: http://tinyurl.com/pmwtn8r (http://tinyurl.com/pmwtn8r)
SC8UU linear bearing x2: http://tinyurl.com/pp9jquw (http://tinyurl.com/pp9jquw)
1m PTFE tube (bowden tube) x1: http://tinyurl.com/lowr6uq
(http://tinyurl.com/lowr6uq)
Arduino Mega and RAMPS board kit x1: http://tinyurl.com/lzozwlw
(http://tinyurl.com/lzozwlw)
Endstops x3: http://tinyurl.com/q47m5cq (http://tinyurl.com/q47m5cq)
Nema 17 motors x1 lot: http://tinyurl.com/njwgj4l (http://tinyurl.com/njwgj4l)
Ceramic Hotend: http://tinyurl.com/plbysqu (http://tinyurl.com/plbysqu) You can use
an all metal one but you must have a fan to cool it down or it will melt the 3D printed
mount
Smooth Rods: 1272T38 Mcmaster Carr part #.
Threaded Rod: Home depot 5/16 inch threaded rod and a nut that screws onto the
rod
Tools:
Laser Cutter
3D Printer and filament or buy the parts from 3dhubs.com
Files
Soldering Iron and Solder
Computer with Arduino IDE, Pronterface and Slicer software
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Step 2: Laser Cut and 3D Print Parts
Laser cut and 3D print these Files:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767555 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767555)
Step 3: Mount Motors and Bearings to the Acrylic
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FK0/DI3F/I8CVWQ4N/FK0DI3FI8CVWQ4N.LARGE.jpg)
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FW3/J6KO/I8CVWQ8L/FW3J6KOI8CVWQ8L.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWO/P6ZD/I8CVWQ8M/FWOP6ZDI8CVWQ8M.LARGE.jpg)
Edge 3D Printer V.2.0 by appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/)
Collection I Made it!
Vote!
Download (/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/?download=pdf) 17 Steps
Favorite Share
(/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/)
Page 9
Using the M3 10mm screws mount the Nema 17 stepper motor to the main acrylic
piece. This is the piece that has the most mounting holes. Do this for both the both
the x and z motors. Now mount the SC8UU bearings. To do this, push M3 25mm
bolts through the four mounting holes, put the bearing on top of the acrylic, push
the bolts through the acrylic piece and add nuts and tighten them until they can't
wobble.
Step 4: Wire Motors to the RAMPS board(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2N/POK9/I8CVWQ8N/F2NPOK9I8CVWQ8N.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT5/HHBF/I8CVWS0E/FT5HHBFI8CVWS0E.LARGE.jpg)
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In this step, we wire the stepper motors to the controller board. Do this by plugging
the motor cable into the connector board. On the board, there are headers that you
connect the cable to. Don't worry about polarity: this won't affect the motor, it will
just spin in reverse which you can invert in the firmware.
Step 5: De-solder USB-B and Mount it to the Acrylic Side
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FQT/GPS0/I8CVWSC4/FQTGPS0I8CVWSC4.LARGE.jpg)
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Extend arduino's USB connector by desoldering the type b connector and just
adding wires to each of the pins bringing the wires to the connector. It sounds
complicated, but it is really simple.
Step 6: Wire the Rest of the Connections
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNN/EDWZ/I8CVWQ8O/FNNEDWZI8CVWQ8O.LARGE.jpg)
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Use the image provided to wire the rest of the connections.
Connect both of the red wires from the hotend to D10 (the screw terminal) and +.
Again the polarity does not matter at this moment because the hotend is just
shorting out a flame proof resistor to heat up. Then wire the thermistor wires to T0
on the board. The polarity also does not matter on this one because it is a resistor.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F0P/KYHA/I8CVWSRY/F0PKYHAI8CVWSRY.LARGE.jpg)
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Step 7: Couple the Z Motor Shaft to the Threaded Rod
Couple the Z motor shaft to the Z motor rod using the coupler.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZJ/IXKG/I8CVWTD8/FZJIXKGI8CVWTD8.LARGE.jpg)
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Step 8: Make the Extruder
Mount the part called "current extruder" to the motor connected to the extruder
motor driver on the RAMPS board. Now, push the direct drive gear onto the motor
shaft and secure it by screwing in the setscrew, then add the 625ZZ bearing onto
the circular mount next to the direct drive gear.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKD/ZGNH/I8CVWUK9/FKDZGNHI8CVWUK9.LARGE.jpg)
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Step 9: Mount Power Jack
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Mount the power jack on the back acrylic piece (the one with the maple leaf on it).
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCF/8DD1/I8CVWUVK/FCF8DD1I8CVWUVK.LARGE.jpg)
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Step 10: Build the Enclosure
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFM/OGVD/I8CVWW02/FFMOGVDI8CVWW02.LARGE.jpg)
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Route all of the wiring from step 10 through the opening in the top piece (near the Z
motor) Glue the ramps board to the bottom piece using hot glue.
You can now assemble the whole enclosure with some of the M3 screws and nuts.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. If you do the acrylic will eventually crack that's what
happened to my acrylic so keep that in mind while tightening the screws. The
enclosure comes together like a puzzle and there should be only one possible way
to put it together.
Step 11: Build X-axis
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOF/L0LR/I8CVWW23/FOFL0LRI8CVWW23.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYE/9LSI/I8CVWYYR/FYE9LSII8CVWYYR.LARGE.jpg)
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Glue the endstop for the x axis to the left side of the top acrylic piece in between
the two SC8UU bearings. Mount the 3d printed X axis part where the x axis motor
is. Then press-mount the two 625zz bearings onto the 3D printed piece.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FGE/W084/I8CVWZ0Q/FGEW084I8CVWZ0Q.LARGE.jpg)
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Step 12: Z-Axis
To start the Z-axis, mount the Z-stabilizer piece to the primary Z motor (the motor at
the back of the printer) with some M3 10mm bolts. Then push the two Z smooth
rods through the two parallel holes in front of the Z motor.
Step 13: Y Axis
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F28/CGH6/I8CVXN23/F28CGH6I8CVXN23.LARGE.jpg)
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F12/4G47/I8CVXOHH/F124G47I8CVXOHH.LARGE.jpg)
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To make the Y axis start by mounting the Y axis stepper motor to the part called
"latest z axis part" and putting the GT2 pulley on the motor shaft and tighten the
setscew to secure it onto the shaft. Then press fit the Y axis rods into the 8mm
holes on the side of the part.
For The Extruder Mount: To start the extruder mount, slide in the LM8UU
bearings into the bearing holes ( The 16mm holes) and use super glue or JB weld
to make sure that they wont slide out of place. After the bearings are in place,
mount the ceramic hotend into the hole at the bottom of the 3D printed part and
again use JB weld to secure it in.
Continuing the Rest of the Y Axis: Slide the extruder mount's bearings through
the rods attached to the "latest z axis part" and slide the "latest Y end cap" onto the
Y axis smooth rods. Now fit the GT2 belt through the rectangular holes on the
extruder mount. Then, loosely fit the end of the GT2 belt through the rectangular
hole in the back of the "latest y axis end cap". Finally add the 608zz bearing into
the rectangular hole and put the whole assembly ontop of the threaded Z axis rods,
making sure that the one of the threaded rods goes through the 608zz bearing.
Now you can add the Y axis end stop, currently I don't have a mount for it so you
will have to just superglue it making sure that it clicks when the extruder assembly is
at its minimum point.
Step 14: Power Supply
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F15/8ZJU/I8CVXQ54/F158ZJUI8CVXQ54.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRQ/BX0Z/I8CVXQ55/FRQBX0ZI8CVXQ55.LARGE.jpg)
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FWI/44OT/I8CVXKYG/FWI44OTI8CVXKYG.LARGE.jpg)
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You need a way to power the 3d printer of course! A really cheap and simple
power supply is an ATX power supply from a computer so if you have an old
computer power supply laying around you can put it to good use. To use it you
must solder the green wire (Power Good) to any ground wire (Black wire) these
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCN/48GA/I8CVXL3Z/FCN48GAI8CVXL3Z.LARGE.jpg)
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wires are normally used to detect if the motherboard of the computer is connected
to the power supply so if you don't solder those wires together the power supply will
not turn on.
Then wire any yellow wire (+12v) to the voltage in connector on the RAMPS board
and any ground wire to the negative input connector. An alternative to this is
ordering a laptop power supply from the internet. the laptop power supply MUST be
able to provide at least 5AMPs at 12 volts.
Step 15: Program Arduino
Download the Marlin firmware here: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F16/7CZM/I8CVXLRL/F167CZMI8CVXLRL.LARGE.jpg)
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Then put the Marlin folder into your libraries folder under arduino. Do this by going
into Documents --> Arduino--> Libraries and place the marlin folder into the
libraries folder and rename the marlin folder to "Marlin" or anything without spaces
or non-ASCII character.
Then open Marlin_for_edge.ino and compile it. If there is an error make sure you
have the right board selected (Mega 2560) and the correct serial port selected.
Step 16: Calibration
To calibrate your printer find this line in marlin's "Configuration.h" folder:
// default settings
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 2618, 90}
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1X/B1JB/I8CVXM1H/F1XB1JBI8CVXM1H.LARGE.jpg)
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#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION
#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000
Once you find this part, open Printrun Pronterface or whatever your favourite 3D
printer controller is. Then having some calipers handy, press the move 10 units
button (It should have a 10 on it) and measure the actual distance that your printer
moved and write down that number for each axis.
Once you have the number of mm that your printer moved for each axis (for
example 8 instead of 10mm), go into the code and find the default axis steps per
mm. Use this formula to find out the new steps per mm :
S = (OS x SD) / RD
Where S= The correct step amount; the number that we are trying to find.
OS = The old steps per mm in our case this is 80.
SD = The number of mm's that the printer thinks that it moved in our case, 10mm.
RD = The actual distance that you wrote down for each axis
So if our 3d printer moves 8mm/10mm and our old steps per mm is 80 it will =
(80 x 10) / 8 = 100
So our new steps per mm = 100. If that is the number for the x axis replace the first
number in the steps per unit line of code (we replace the first number because in
the array the pattern is X,Y,Z,E).
Do this for all axes and yor 3d printer is calibrated.
Step 17: Slicing and How to Use
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/F2T/OF1N/I8CVXM7V/F2TOF1NI8CVXM7V.LARGE.jpg)
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We have a be nice comment policy.
Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment
(/member/stewe951/)
43 seconds ago Reply
Here are the slicing settings that I currently use: (Use images)
These also work if you use them in Slic3r or any other slicer, I just prefer Cura
because it is fast and accurate.
To actually print something from the printer download an STL file from a site like
youmagine or thingiverse. Once you have downloaded an STL file you can drag the
file into your slicer or choice and click "Export Gcode" and save it to your desktop.
To control the printer I like Printrun pronterface (
http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ ). Once it is downloaded you can select "open"
and select your G-code that you wnat to print. Connect your printer using a usb
cable and press the "connect" button in pronterface. You are now connected to
your printer and now you can press print. It will take a few minutes to heat up.
When it is completely heated up it will start homing all axes.
1-40 of49
Next » (http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-3D-Printer-V20/?&sort=ACTIVE&limit=40&offset=40#DISCUSS)
stewe951 (/member/stewe951/)
May you please add me to the list for the "Kit". I would love to do this. I am also 13
and would like to start in 3D printing.
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNV/5SX4/I8CVXM7Z/FNV5SX4I8CVXM7Z.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHX/T252/I8CVXM7X/FHXT252I8CVXM7X.LARGE.jpg)
Page 33
(/member/jfgilmore/)
8 hours ago Reply
(/member/appleman123987/)
6 hours ago Reply
(/member/jfgilmore/)
6 hours ago Reply
(/member/appleman123987/)
3 minutes ago Reply
(/member/BrendanC1/)
3 hours ago Reply
(/member/Foxtrot70/)
4 hours ago Reply
jfgilmore (/member/jfgilmore/)
I'd like to make you the same deal as nightman69...
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) jfgilmore
Great! I've added you to the list of people that want
kits.
jfgilmore (/member/jfgilmore/) appleman123987
Any idea how long before you can ship?
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) jfgilmore
If I order the parts this week, it will take four weeksto get to me then I'll have to ship it out. I'll print theparts before I get the electronics so I can ship the
kits as soon as possible.
BrendanC1 (/member/BrendanC1/)
I loved your first instrtuctable. This one is even better! I'm 14 now, and I've built a
3d printer, but I could never INVENT one. Really good job!
Foxtrot70 (/member/Foxtrot70/)
An exceptional Instructable! An optional accessory you might look at would be tomake the printer head detachable so as to interchange with an optional LASER
cutter head and/or CNC milling head. Keep up the great work you are doing. PSplease add me to your perspective kits purchasers list.
Page 34
(/member/Vettel/)
4 hours ago Reply
(/member/Vettel/)
4 hours ago Reply
(/member/daveselinger/)
6 hours ago Reply
(/member/Bill+Papadimas/)
8 hours ago Reply
Vettel (/member/Vettel/)
video please!
Vettel (/member/Vettel/)
Video of its in work please!??!!????????
daveselinger (/member/daveselinger/)
Great job. I love the attention to detail.
Bill Papadimas (/member/Bill+Papadimas/)
Mc-Master Carr declined my order so I bought those rods:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-SS304-Sta...
(http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-SS304-Stainless-Steel-Round-Bar-OD-8mm-DIY-Hardware-Round-Rods-Pole/32279687114.html?spm=0.0.0.0.CIqjyc)
I'm greek so I couldn't buy from home-depot so I bought this rod:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh...
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
But I still can't understand what nut i need:
will this nut work?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh...(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HS7WHDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1)
samern (/member/samern/)
Page 35
(/member/samern/)
8 hours ago Reply
(/member/tetilley/)
9 hours ago Reply
(/member/nliwilson/)
10 hours ago Reply
(/member/rickb928/)
17 hours ago Reply
(/member/pruthwiraj/)
22 hours ago Reply
(/member/Captain+Data/)
yesterday Reply
I would love to also see your configuration file (configuration.h). One thing that
might be useful is to bundle the software package with instructions on how toflash the RAMPS board and make that part of the downloadable things for this (oryou can park it on Thingiverse too).
tetilley (/member/tetilley/)
nliwilson (/member/nliwilson/)
Really excellent. Well done. :)
rickb928 (/member/rickb928/)
What a nice design. I'm not sure I like the epoxy, but that's what I would do rather
than figure out the elegant solution to the last 10%. I'm looking at your BOM andthe STL files. Very nice work!!
pruthwiraj (/member/pruthwiraj/)
Excellent
Captain Data (/member/Captain+Data/)
I'm looking into ordering the 3d printed parts from 3dhubs.com. Are the printedparts in mm, cm, or inches?
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) Captain Data
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(/member/appleman123987/)
22 hours ago Reply
(/member/dahoomi28/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/appleman123987/)
22 hours ago Reply
(/member/printrbot932/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/appleman123987/)
22 hours ago Reply
(/member/faiq.m.arif/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/sholz/)
yesterday Reply
They are in mm.
dahoomi28 (/member/dahoomi28/)
go ?
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) dahoomi28
?
printrbot932 (/member/printrbot932/)
You're 13? Wow this would have been a great ibl know-matter how old u whereThad fact that u r so young just makes it that much cooler.i followed and faved I
hope u continue to post more truly great instructables
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) printrbot932
Thanks!
faiq.m.arif (/member/faiq.m.arif/)
how long does the smooth rod and the threaded rod need to be?
sholz (/member/sholz/)
Wow, this looks very detailed! Good work! A picture of sample-printings would beawesome:D
Page 37
(/member/promake/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/promake/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/JavaProgrammer/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/appleman123987/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/thequara/)
yesterday Reply
(/member/thequara/)
yesterday Reply
promake (/member/promake/)
nice one
promake (/member/promake/) promake
its very nice
JavaProgrammer (/member/JavaProgrammer/)
I know people have asked this already, but could you please post some pics of
examples printed with this machine? the resolution and such can be veryimportant.
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) JavaProgrammer
I will post pictures of some prints after I unclog theextruder.
thequara (/member/thequara/)
Sorry for the spelling horror in the last part of my post... Little iPhone, big fingers,
too much hurry!
thequara (/member/thequara/)
Nice. Detail in the directions is pretty good! For somebody looking to learn and
understand what a project like this entails, great resource. The only constructivecriticism I would offer (take it or leave it) is A. Maybe show an example ofsomething you printed with it. Folks looking to build their own vs buy need to
evaluate if it will meet their needs or expectations. B. Maybe offer ideas for howto make or get the parts that need to be 3D printer... A lot of filks BUILDING aprinter din't yet have access to one. But overall great job!
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PierreF2 (/member/PierreF2/)
hello, thanks for your sharing, very good job :)i think you missed the 2 blue part of the plate for the x axis on thinkiverse, can you
add them ? thanks!
chuynator98 (/member/chuynator98/)
noice work m8
Lectric Wizard (/member/Lectric+Wizard/)
Very nicely done! Looks like it was built by a professional. You will do well in life,young sir!!
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) Lectric Wizard
Thanks!
lnm2525 (/member/lnm2525/)
You're a pretty cool 13-year old! I've been reading many instructions and yours byfar is the easiest to read and very organized. Good idea on including all of yourlinks. You should be a college professor one day.
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) lnm2525
Thank you so much for the compliment!
JavaProgrammer (/member/JavaProgrammer/)
very cool, but how much does the whole thing cost with ordering the 3d partsonline?
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We have a be nice comment policy.
Please be positive and constructive. I Made it! Add Images Make Comment
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) JavaProgrammer
Ordering the 3D printed parts online can cost quite a
bit of money. If enough people want, I can sell the 3Dprinted parts for cheap.
JavaProgrammer (/member/JavaProgrammer/) appleman123987
I might be interested in that. could you do a quickcount and give a rough estimate of the total cost of theparts and the 3d printed parts from you counting
shipping? I know that's a lot. just an educated guess.$100, $150, $300?
appleman123987 (/member/appleman123987/) (author) JavaProgrammer
The parts from Aliexpress cost $134.88 US (includingshipping) so that's everything except the laser cutparts and the 3D printed parts. I could probably do
$25 for all 3D printed parts. Not sure about theshipping. That's just a quick guess.
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