Eat Guide 2009

CITY PAPERS DINING GUIDE MARCH 4, 2009

2 EAT MARCH 4, 2009 CITYPAPER .COM

CITYPAPER .COM MARCH 4, 2009 EAT 3

THE HELMAND IS THAT RARITY, A RESTAURANT THAT DOES WHAT IT

SETS OUT TO DO SUPERBLY...NO EATING PLACE IN BALTIMORE GIVES

YOU BETTER VALUE FOR YOUR DINING OUT EXPERIENCE

ELIZABETH LARGETHE BALTIMORE SUN

A PERENNIAL CONTENDER FOR CITY PAPERS ANNUAL BEST RESTAURANT HONORS... NEWLY AWARDED BEST RESTAURANT FOR VEGETARIANSCITY PAPERDINING GUIDE

THE HELMAND

806 N. Charles StreetBaltimore, Maryland 21201410.752.0311SundayThursday 5 10pmFridaySaturday 5 11pmwww.helmand.com

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A cozy neighborhood bistro in Bolton Hill.Voted Best Neighborhood Restaurant, City Paper Readers Poll.

Bolton StreetBaltimore, Maryland Phone: www.b-bistro.com

Open Tuesday through Saturday for lite fare and dinner pm. Sunday brunch am pm, dinner pm.

Tuesdays half price wine bottles with entree

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COOL COMFORTCity Papers annual dining guideKNOW WHAT MAKES YOU REALLY HUNGRY? Reading more than 170 restaurant write-ups. Just like you shouldnt go to the supermarket on an empty stomach, we highly recommend that you get a snack before perusing our annual guide to as many good Baltimore City eats as we can jam in.

This year, we have organized the restaurants by type of cuisine, so you can consider restaurants based on whatever culinary itch needs scratching at the momentyou know, for those nights when nothing but a criminally spicy Thai curry will do, or a truly extraordinary slice of pizza, or a burrito thats practically splitting at the seams. In doing so, we came to this realization: If last year was the year of farm-to-table restaurants, this year was all about upscale comfort foodso much so that we gave it its own cate-gory. Seriously, theres a lot of fancy mac n cheese, chic homestyle platters, and sliders with toppings that are more White House than White Castle in Charm City these days. Not that thats a bad thing, unless youre our bathroom scale.

As always, there are way more noteworthy restaurants than we can fit in these pages. This is merely a sampling of places we enjoy. Hope you like em, too.

EAT 2009 was written by Jeffrey Anderson, Michael Byrne, Anna Ditkoff, Edward Ericson Jr., Zachary Evans, Lee Gardner, Fawn Gwynallen, Tim Hill, Henry Hong, Chris Landers, Randianne Leyshon, Bret McCabe, Molly ODonnell, Van Smith, Erin Sullivan, Joe Tropea, Wendy Ward, and Mary K. Zajac. Interns Matthew Garland, Kim Irwin, Jami Katz, Randianne Leyshon, Kathryn Mastandrea, Awis Mranani, and Chidinma Okparanta checked all the food-related facts. Photos by Frank Hamilton, Frank Klein, Christopher Myers, Rarah, and Jefferson Jackson Steele. Cover by Frank Hamilton, with thanks to Henry E Hong, Allen A Savage, Linda T Bernstein, and Lee ! Sinoski.

E AT C I T Y PA PE R S D I N I N G G U I D E

F R A N K H A M I L T O N


BARBECUE AND PIT

ANDY NELSONS BARBECUE11007 YORK ROAD, COCKEYSVILLE, (410) 527-1226, ANDYNELSONSBBQ.COM, $-$$When you spot the pink pig on the roof looming over busy York Road,

you know youre only moments away from the best barbecue the Baltimore area has to offer: succu-lent Memphis-style pulled pork and ribs; three varieties of beef, includ-ing regional pit style; even smoked turkey and chicken. Ample portions and worthy traditional sides are likely to take care of any spare room under your belt, but the house-made desserts arent an afterthought.

BIG BAD WOLFS HOUSE OF BARBEQUE5713 HARFORD ROAD, (410) 444-6422, BIGBADWOLFBARBEQUE.COM, $$ Baltimore is always in need of bar-becue options, and since opening on Harford Road, Big Bad Wolfs has steadily amassed a following and improved the consistency of its offerings. An array of carefully

conceived, well-balanced sauces greatly enhance the meat, which is light on rub and perhaps not as smoky as some barbecue devotees might expect. Texture and moist-ness are generally good, though the beef (both brisket and short ribs) can be hit or miss, while the under-cover star is the truly outstanding grilled chicken sandwich.


WEST INDIAN FLAVOUR

R A R A H


DRINK WITH STYLE. DRINK RESPONSIBLY.Brewed in Italy and Imported by 2009 Birra Peroni Internazionale, Eden, NC


PIONEER PIT BEEF1602 N. ROLLING ROAD, (410) 455-0015, $ Regarded by many pit-beef freaks to be the current best of the best, Pioneer distinguishes itself by de-livering a product that consistently incorporates all of the factors one desires in pit beef: a well-charred and seasoned crust and thin, against-the-grain slices cooked to proper temperature over char-coal. It may sound simple, but such pit beef is, in fact, quite rare. The usual accoutrements are present, including an above-average barbe-cue sauce, and receiving samples while in line is standard practice. You can even buy lump hardwood charcoal here if you care to dabble in DIY pit beef.

RUB1843 LIGHT ST., (410) 244-5667, RUBBBQBALTIMORE.COM, $-$$ Most of the smoked meat in Baltimore is done in the regional pit-beef style, and the vast ma-jority of the places that do offer more exotic barbecue stick to the smoky/sweet Memphis approach, all of which makes Rub a serious minority. Its Texas cue relies less on heavy smoke and sauce and more on dry spice rubs (hence the name) and low, slow heat for a less showy flavor. The vibe is about as roadhouse-y as you can make a rowhouse, and the rich go-withs compete favorably with the main courses. In fact, though the beef brisket is supposed to be the big deal here, try the Brownsville hot wings.

BREAKFAST

BLUE MOON CAF1621 ALICEANNA ST., (410) 522-3940, $For years, Blue Moon has been sav-ing the asses of pro imbibers with truly excellent breakfast fare, but after-hours and weekend-morn-ings customers should be prepared to wait for a seat in the small din-ing room, and then some more for the tiny kitchen to get through the crush of orders. Its worth the wait to sample homemade sau-sage, over-the-top omelet and eggs Benedict variations, stellar bacon, and bafflingly good hash browns. Always get the famous cats head biscuits (dont worry, its just a size reference) and homemade jam. Ingredients are top-notch and por-tions are startlingly large.

GOLDBERGS NEW YORK BAGELS708 REISTERSTOWN ROAD, (410) 415-7001, GOLDBERGSBAGELS.COM, $This Pikesville institution not only offers the hands-down best New York-style bagels in the areaa full line of chewy, crusty marvelsbut its lunch business is nothing to sneeze at either, with soups (mmm, mushroom barley) and salads that make a visit after breakfast has passed pay off.

GREGS BAGELS519 E. BELVEDERE AVE., (410) 323-9463, $Most bagel placesat least in this part of the countryare nothing special. The exception is Gregs where the bagels are just about perfect and come in a stagger-ing array of flavorsflax seed


CLEMENTINE

C H R I S T O P H E R M Y E R S


pistachio is our current favorite. But what really gets us out of bed and in the door is the blackboard of daily smoked fish offerings, each of which gets the fine-wine treatment, with descriptions of its flavor and body scrawled be-side its name. The prices reflect the seriousness with which ba-gels are taken here, but its well worth it.

MISS SHIRLEYS CAF513 W. COLD SPRING LANE, (410) 889-5272; 750 E. PRATT ST., (410) 528-5373; MISSSHIRLEYS.COM, $-$$A popular brunch spot in Roland Park (and now downtown), Miss Shirleys offers traditional break-fast fare dressed up for compa-ny. It doesnt have regular eggs Benedict; its got sweet corn cakes Benedict. Sure you can get a hot dog wrapped in bacon, but its applewood smoked bacon, see.

Which probably isnt any better for you, but it sure sounds health-ier, right?

SPOONS COFFEE CAF AND COFFEE ROASTERY24 E. CROSS ST., (410) 539-6751, $Reminiscent of 90s coffeehouses with its mishmash dcor of well-worn couches and tables, Spoons does coffee with a wine-aficiona-dos fervor. A wide variety of or-ganic and exotic beans are roasted on site, and things are usually busy come breakfast time on the week-ends. A stack of banana pancakes is a top seller on the simple caf menu that includes lunch staples like soups and sandwiches. The real appeal of the spot is in hun-kering down with a cup and a book and soaking up the upbeat atmosphere.

CAFS

ATWATERSBELVEDERE SQUARE MARKET, 529 E. BELVEDERE AVE., (410) 323-2396; 1425 CLARKVIEW ROAD, SUITE 300, (410) 821-6021; 798 KENILWORTH DRIVE, TOWSON, (410) 938-8775; ATWATERS.BIZ, $Ned Atwater now has sort of an em-pire, with three bakeries-cum-soup/salad/sandwich spots spread across the northern end of the Baltimore metro. But economies of scale dont seem to have affected the creative, ever-changing menus at each loca-tion, all chock-full of local, seasonal ingredients and assembled with evident care. You usually have your chicken salads and field greens and a few other staples to count on, but they rarely lapse into the boring or expected. Always different, almost always superb.

CARMAS CAF3120 ST. PAUL ST., (410) 243-5200, $The consistent wait for a table at Carmas on a Saturday morning tells the story. This tiny space off the hectic St. Paul Street drag in Charles Village serves some of the best coffee-shop fare you can get in Baltimore. Quick breakfasts dont get more sublime than the Icelandic yogurt, served with tiny bowls of jam and granola on the side. If you need savory, Carmas dishes consistently wonderful, creative soups, a handful of pa-nini (get sesame noodles on the side), or, for something quick, a bagel smeared with one of a few homemade cream-cheese concoc-tions will do.


BIG BAD WOLFS HOUSE OF BARBEQUE

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500 W Cold Spring LaneBaltimore, MD 21210

410-889-3332www.RolandParkBagelCompany.com

513 W Cold Spring Lane Baltimore, MD 21210

410-889-5272

750 E Pratt Street Baltimore, MD 21202

410-528-5373www.MissShirleys.com


410-235-3433www.Alonsos.com


410-889-2233www.LocoHombre.com


410-235-5999www.SghettiEddies.com


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Bring the pleasure back to any day. Enjoy impeccable seafood with Mediterranean flair in the heart of historic Fells Point.

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DANGEROUSLY DELICIOUS PIES/SAVORY HOUSE1036 LIGHT ST., (410) 522-7437; 3547 CHESTNUT AVE., (410) 662-7437; DANGEROUSPIES.COM; $-$$Rocker/baker Rodney Henry has remade the local desert landscape with his dense, flavorful pastry concoctions, ranging from staples like apple and key lime on up to bespoke pies like the Mobtown brown and the full custom custard (plus a range of meal-in-a-wedge savory items such as a pork bar-becue pie).

DONNAS800 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 385-0180; 3101 ST. PAUL ST., (410) 889-3410; 22 S. GREEN ST., (410) 328-1962; 5100 FALLS ROAD/40 VILLAGE SQUARE, (410) 532-7611; DONNAS.COM, $$-$$$Although the menu varies at each Donnas outpost, you know you can always count on fancy coffee drinks, comfortable pastas, and hearty dinner-sized salads, like the signature model made with roasted vegetables. The formula may be feeling a little dated, but it still works because of the quality of the food, the reasonable prices, and the way that each restaurant in this local chain feels like a neigh-borhood joint, whether youre in Charles Village, Mount Vernon, or Cross Keys.

KADERS CAF MOCHA1501 ST. PAUL ST., (410) 962-5717, $Kader Camaras move from Antique Row to the sparkling, refurbished Railway Express Building has added a colorful splash of a dining room to his lunch take-out trade, encouraging a more relaxed time spent eating one of his tasty of-ferings. The sandwiches remain comfortingly filling without being overstuffed, and the paninis are still cheese-filled crunchy good-ness. But the roasted salmon sand-wich occupies a special place in the heart, with its spicy horseradish and thick-grained mustard collid-ing with the fruity sweet of plan-tains and omega-3-rich salmon.

MELI PATISSERIE AND BISTRO1636 THAMES ST., (410) 534-6354, KALISMELI.COM, $$Meli isnt just for dinner, its also for coffee and pastries, cheese



ANNABEL LEE TAVERN


plates, scrumptious brunches, and lounging on the downstairs sofas with a newspaper and a mi-mosa. Like Kalis Court and Mezze, which are its brethren concerns, this Fells Point spot is impeccably decorated and staffed by veterans. But it is the entresthe pista-chio-encrusted lamb chops right on down to the tuna burger with friesthat impress the most.

ON THE HILL CAF AND MARKET1431 JOHN ST., (410) 225-9667, ONTHEHILLCAFE.COM, $If every neighborhood in the city had a caf like this Bolton Hill fave, Baltimore would be a much more pleasant place to live. Inexpensive soups, sandwiches, burritos, and salads are the mainstays of the menu, but rounding it out are homemade quiches, savory and sweet tarts, meat pies, burgers, and a couple of vegetarian sand-wiches. For the sweet tooth, cook-ies and pastries are available all day to act as companion to your cup of coffee, which you can get to go or sit and enjoy at one of the little window-seat tables.

ROSINA GOURMET300 E. LOMBARD ST., (410) 244-1885; 2819 ODONNELL ST., (410) 675-9300; ROSINAGOURMET.COM, $For when an ordinary sandwich just wont do, seek this charm-ing downtown lunch spot or its Canton sibling. Its menu offers an ample selection of familiar-sounding sandwichesfrom the smoked turkey to the tuna meltdressed in fancier duds: Jarslberg cheese and basil pesto mayo on focaccia for the turkey, artichoke hearts and oregano on a wheat roll for the tuna. Best of all are the meatless optionsa hearty health sandwich and the whimsical white cheddar sandwich, which lays cheese atop slices of Granny Smith apples on honey-mustard-smeared bread. Excellent.

SOFIS CRPES1723 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 727-7732; 333 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 727-5737; SOFISCREPES.COM, $Sofis is a good fit for its cramped quarters next to the Charles Theatre. It serves a variety of des-sert crpes alongside a menu of

heartier savory crpes that are big enough for a smallish meal. It gets packed quickly, especially around the theater schedule, but even with the crpes made-to-order, the line moves fast. Its tough at times to get a seat, but thats the other upside to crpestheyre pretty easy to eat stand-ing up. Sofis is also open now inside the Womens Industrial Exchange, where seating is more bountiful.

CARIBBEAN

JUDYS ISLAND GRILL AND BAKE SHOP5216 PARK HEIGHTS AVE., (410) 367-0272, JUDYSISLANDGRILL.COM, $-$$We keep meaning to check out this Jamaican carry-out spots amazing breakfast menuplan-tain porridge? butter bean and saltfish?but its belly busting dinner options keep elbowing out the brain space that tries to remember to have Caribbean cui-sine for breakfast. Instead, Judys pitch-perfect jerk chickennot too spicy, not too tangyand whatever variety of fried fish is being offered is what the nose informs the tummy it wants. Throw in some sides of callaloo and rice, roasted yam, and fried plantains, and youre set for a splendid evening.

MANGO AND COCONUT JUICE BAR222 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 837-2626, $Charles Plaza is seeing more foot traffic lately thanks to the much-needed Superfresh. Hopefully this will mean an uptick in business for the low-profile, but high quality eateries in the food court. Among them is Mango and Coconut, which serves familiar Caribbean favorites and fresh vegetable and fruit smoothies. The ubiquitous jerk is significant-ly cooled down, presumably for folks who need to head back to the office after lunch, which allows often-masked flavors like thyme and allspice to emerge. Even the usually anonymous bed of beans and rice have pleasant texture and are well-seasoned.



THE SUN TRUST BUILDING120 E. Baltimore Street

Corner of Calvert & Baltimore St.

phone: 410.837.PITA (7482) fax: 410.752.5999or University of MD Shock Trauma Center

phone: 410.327.2227 fax: 410.327.2228

TASTY FOOD AT REASONABLEPRICES WITH STUNNING EFFICIENCY

- CITY PAPER

BEST OF BALTIMORE AWARDS DATING BACK TO 1992

- CITY PAPER

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OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER MONDAY-FRIDAY TIL 7PMMONDAY-FRIDAY TIL 7PM

VISIT OUR WEBSITE VVVIISIT OOUUURR WWWEEBBBSSSITTEEE TO ORDER CATERING TOOO OOORRRDDEERR CAAATTEEERIINNGG

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THE BEST REAL FOOD

SERVED FAST!

Tuesday-FridayLunch 11:30-3pmDinner 5-10pm

Fri 5-11pmSat 12pm-11pm

Sun Dinner 5-10pm

Please feel free tobring Beer or Wine!

...Thai Arroyskitchen delivers enough winners

to merit a return trip.-Richard Gorelick, City Paper

This is Thai food at its best...-Elizabeth Large, The Baltimore Sun

1019 Light StreetBaltimore MD

410.385.8587 or 410.385.1989www.thaiarroy.com

Thai ArroyThai Arroy


PENN STREET TAVERN213 PENN ST., (410) 752-5858, $-$$This homey little corner pub in Ridgelys Delight serves alcohol and conversation up front and cheap, delicious Jamaican fare in the back. Staples such as jerk chicken, tilapia, and ox tail adhere to the long tradi-tion of good Jamaican food served under this roof. The veggie medley, a hearty mix of okra, carrots, and other veggies in a coconut-milk base, is great. Grab a ginger beer, order some coco bread, some plan-tains, and start sampling.

WEST INDIAN FLAVOUR2111 MCELDERRY ST., (410) 522-0220, $Step into this Indo-Caribbean car-ry-out and youre awash in com-pelling aromas, a result of the East Indian cuisine by way of Trinidad and Tobago thats served here. Bus-up-shut (slang for busted up shirt, describing its appear-ance) is roti, a huge flatbread en-closing potatoes, peas, and your choice of stewed, curried, or jerk meat, while dhalpouri roti is made with ground chickpeas; the fillings explode with flavor and are per-fectly cooked. Horizon-expanding specials include cow foot soup on Saturdays, and they carry locally made ice creams that specialize in West Indian flavors. Spicy means mega-spicy here, FYI.

CHINESE

GRACE GARDEN CHINESE RESTAURANT1690 ANNAPOLIS ROAD, ODENTON, (410) 672-3581, GRACEGARDENCHINESE.COM, $$-$$$ Early adopters have long weighed selfishly keeping this seemingly nondescript Odenton eatery a secret against promoting it to en-sure continued operation. Dont let the tiny strip-mall habitat fool you: Grace Garden offers arguably the best authentic Chinese food in Maryland. The chef is formerly of the venerable Hunan Manor in Columbia, but here he gets to ex-plore other regional variations and the results are spectacular. Sichuan triple treasure (spicy beef tongue, tripe, and tendon) is ridiculously good. Note that a few of the more complex dishes must be ordered days in advance.



EL TORITO MEXICAN RESTAURANT


A Gigantic Menu,featuring daily & evening specials

2 Fully Stocked Barsand 7 at screens for sports viewing.

Upstairs Game Room with foosball, free darts, shuf eboard & Wii

Great forPrivate Parties.

Family FriendlyDining Room

with leapsters &special menu for the kids

Award Winning:

Best Bar in Fells Point- Baltimore Guide, 2008 Readers Poll

Best Cubano- Baltimore Magazine, 2008

Top 10 Restaurants for Kids- Baltimore Sun, 2008

Top Ten Brunches You Dont Know About-Baltimore Sun, 2008

Best Opportunity for Free Whiskey- City Paper, Best of Baltimore 2008

710 South Broadway | Fells Point 410.522.0000Alexanderstavern .com

- Elizabeth Large, Baltimore Sun

www.akbar-restaurant.com

Voted Baltimores BestIndian Restaurant

-City PapersReader Poll

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410-462-6200

237-239 W. Read Street

Mediterranean Kitchen

Fresh Taste, Natural Ingredientsin a Mediterranean-Modern Setting

Eat-In, Take Out & Catering

745 E. Fort Ave410.727.PITA(7482)

www.babaskitchen.net

A Hidden Treasure In Baltimore Dining

Cozy Corners Exceptional Food Impressive Wine List

Best Brunch - City Paper Top 50 Restaurants - Zagats

1739 Fleet Street Fells Point 410.675.5999Reservations Suggested Mon-Thu 11am-11pm Fri 11am-1am Sat 9am-1am Sun 9am-11pm

E A S T E R N E U R O P E A N C A F E & W I N E B A R


MR. CHAN SZECHUAN RESTAURANT 1000 REISTERSTOWN ROAD, PIKESVILLE, (410) 484-1100, $$ Among vegetarians, Mr. Chans has long reigned supreme. Seemingly a mid-range Chinese joint in Pikesville, Mr. Chans is actually the go-to date or large party/special occasion place for tasty fresh Asian food. The service is impeccable and the prices fair. And whats more, with real meat entres next to faux-meat offerings on the menu, it makes for the perfect place for vegetarians to break bread with carnivorous family and friends. Start with an order of sushiboth the nasu-ten (eggplant tempura) maki and shiitake maki are heav-enlyfrom there you really cant go wrong.

CLASSIC AMERICAN

BURKES RESTAURANT AND CAF 36 LIGHT ST., (410) 752-4189, BURKESCAFE.COM, $$-$$$Burkes is not necessarily the kind of eatery youd take someone on a first date, unless it wasnt going well. It looks like a diner stuffed into a Swiss chalet. But Burkes wouldnt still be standing after 75 years if it didnt have good American staples at reasonable prices. Given the ever-changing harbor area and the demise of Marticks and Marconis, theres something comforting about tak-ing a step back in time at Burkes.

MCCABES3845 FALLS ROAD, (410) 467-1000, $$This staid bar/restaurant on the northwest edge of Hampden has a long-standing reputation for serving possibly the best burger in town. Moist, hefty, well sea-soned and cooked, and available with myriad equally well-pre-pared toppings, but honest and straightforward, never too fancy-shmancyits a freaking burger after all. The awesome battered fries that come on the side dont hurt either. Entrees, particularly specials, are well executed and of hearty portions; baked potato soup is outstanding as are grilled pork chops.

METROPOLITAN COFFEE HOUSE AND WINE BAR902 S. CHARLES ST., (410) 234-0235, METROBALTO.COM, $$Open for just over four years now, Metropolitan still has the food and service of a new kid on the block. In other words, its still good, and the staff still tries. This small Federal Hill hangout is chic yet warm, with a mod black-and-red exterior and a rich wood and exposed-brick in-terior. With an atmosphere thats everything a city restaurant should be, the mostly American menu is also consistently interesting and tasty. A craving for the blueberry pancakes will expose you to the highlight of the morning there: a self-service coffee station offering a wide variety of freshly brewed, high quality coffee.


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MOUNT VERNON STABLE AND SALOON909 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 685-7427, WWW.MVSTABLE.COM, $With its dining facilities and a downstairs bar a hot spot for the rainbow flag set, the Stable is a good option for a laid-back din-ner or a beer-fueled rager. Though service may be slower than desired, the waitstaff treats you like fam-ily. Often you dont even realize how long your food takes to arrive because your perky waiter keeps you entertained, making you feel like a new best friend. The Stable is known for its baby back ribs, which are unimpeachable, but some other dishes fail to live up to expecta-tions. The Reubenesque and the Caesar salad are good staples to fall back on.

PERRING PLACE2305 CLEANLEIGH DRIVE, PARKVILLE, (410) 661-0630, $$-$$$Peter Angelos old-fashioned res-taurant has managed to survive its tough location at Perring Parkway and McLean Boulevard, and on any given evening, Perring Place will be filled with a distinctly older crowd enjoying martinis and crab cakes, Manhattans and prime rib, and waitresses in black and white uni-forms who never fail to call you hon. If you like liver and onions, by all means order it here.

THE PRIME RIB1101 N. CALVERT ST., (410) 539-1804, THEPRIMERIB.COM, $$$ One of the few survivors of old-school Baltimore fine dining, the Prime Rib is still the place to go for truly special occasions. It possesses that rare confluence of supremely good service, genuinely swank en-virons, and, of course, utterly su-perlative cuisine, all present on an unwaveringly consistent basis. Its hard not to order the gorgeous and exquisite prime rib, but seafood here is also exceptional. The expert-ly aged beef is a step above even the most upscale of the chain steakhouses that have cropped up in town. And yes, jackets are still required for gentlemen.



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CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN

ABACROMBIE FINE FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS58 W. BIDDLE ST., (410) 837-3630, ABACROMBIE.NET, $$$Corks Restaurant mastermind and WYPR-FM radio personality Jerry Pellegrino, along with executive chef Jesse Sandlin, has breathed new life into Abacrombie. The small subterranean space had gotten a bit stodgy. The new menu is intrigu-ingly varied (you can have escargot or mac n cheese to start) and pulls from a variety of influences (entres include scallops with chimichurri sauce, mushroom Stroganoff, and a cassoulet with duck sausage). Even the desserts feature a new sense of fun with Abacrombies take on a root-beer float.

B, BOLTON HILL BISTRO 1501 BOLTON ST., (410) 383-8600, B-BISTRO.COM, $$Theres something about eating at b that rips the word delightful out of even a pessimistic mouth. This is especially true if youre for-tunate enough to get a table out-side on a warm spring night. Apart from a menu filled with reason-ably priced scrumptious food, the candlelight setting suits this regal residential corner of Bolton Hill perfectly. Pastas of note include the pancetta fettuccine dish and the fresh take on Italian pear and Gorgonzola sachette. One caution-ary note: Its popular and small, so try to go at a nontraditional din-nertime.

BICYCLE1444 LIGHT ST., (410) 234-1900, BICYCLEBISTRO.COM, $$$Over the years, Bicycle has gone through several sets of hands, yet somehow managed to remain the same kind of slick yet homey restaurant that first got diners attentions when it opened in 2000pretty enough for a special occasion, but comfortable enough for a weeknight nosh. Chef/owner Nicholas Bateys menu works the same kind of magicdont miss the spicy corn soup with blue crab or the better-than-a-salad-has-any-right-to be roasted beet salad with goat cheese. A list of good $18 bot-tles of wine helps keep the check from getting out of control.

BRASS ELEPHANT924 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 547-8480, BRASSELEPHANT.COM, $$-$$$With its historic Mount Vernon building, impeccably conscientious service, and graceful presentations, the Brass Elephant is a local institu-tion for a reason. Such posh finery costs you, of course, which is why we tend to stick to ordering from the slightly less wallet-bruising menu in the Tusk Lounge, where a few of the dinner menus offerings make an appearance. Otherwise, save up and dive whole hog into chef Marcus Olsons neo-classic fare. Might we suggest a duck or seafood preparation?

BREWERS ART 1106 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 547-6925, THEBREWERSART.COM, $$$Forget about what weve had there in the past, because its probably no


IGGIES



longer on the frequently chang-ing menu. Doesnt matter: Chef Dave Newman can be trusted. Whatever your protein choice, it will be cooked perfectly, sauced or spiced artfully, and laid atop some starchy thing and vegetable (sweet potato hash, say, or bacon-y greens, probably locally-grown) that complement it brilliantly. There will be a salty-savory taste unlike anything youve experienced with something sweet, fruity, and/or tangy cut-ting through it. Itll all sing, and whether you pair it with site-brewed ale or one of their excel-lent wines, youll leave happy.

CHAMELEON CAF4341 HARFORD ROAD, (410) 254-2376, THECHAMELEONCAFE.COM, $$$Chameleon has been churning out kick-ass fine dining in the Hamilton/Lauraville area since before it was cool. Owner/chef Jeff Smiths menu nods to French cui-

sine without being hamstrung by it. The resulting dishes never fail to surprise and excitehis annual Maryland menu consistently gar-ners ravesfrom perfect pieces of meat (if you order steak expect to make yummy faces that border on obscene) to unexpected fish preparations.

THE DOGWOOD911 W. 36TH ST., (410) 889-0952, DOGWOODBALTIMORE.COM, $$$Since the subterranean restau-rant opened in 2007, the Dogwood reeked potential what with chef/owner Galen Sampsons focus on local ingredients and the nonprofit arm Chefs in the Making. And in the last year, the Dogwood has finally started liv-ing up to expectations. The dining room is lovely and modern, the food is exceptionalthe menu changes frequently according to what is in season locallyand the once-shaky service has smoothed out. Splurge on the chefs tasting


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menu with paired wines or keep it frugal with the $15 gnocchi special on Monday nights.

GERTRUDES AT THE BMA10 ART MUSEUM DRIVE, (410) 889-3399, JOHNSHIELDS.COM/RESTAURANT/REST/GERTRUDES.HTML, $$-$$$ Hometown boy John Shields con-tinues to make good at the elegant/downhome restaurant he named for his grandmother. Crab cakes are an obvious choice here, but dont overlook the oyster po boy or even the pulled pork quesadilla. Specials like $12 entrees on Tuesdays and half-price glasses and bottles of wine on Wednesday make eating near the BMAs Sculpture Garden even more appealing.

HULL STREET BLUES1222 HULL ST., (410) 727-7476, HULLSTREETBLUES.COM, $$Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, Locust Points Hull Street Blues still lays out a beau-tiful spread every Sunday for its famous brunch, one of the best in Baltimore, with an array of break-fast meats, smoked fish, and fresh fruit. The lunch menu sports fa-miliar salad, sandwich, and pasta options, while the dinner menu reaches a bit higher with a couple of Asian-influenced fish entres, as well as steaks, shrimp, and crab cakes, with many available for a measly $12 on Tuesdays.

LINWOODS25 CROSSROADS DRIVE, OWINGS MILLS, (410) 356-3030, LINWOODS.COM, $$$Classy and elegant, if a bit pricey, Linwoods never fails to deliver a quality meal. Dishes are rich and amplesee shrimp and grits, the corn pudding that accompanies lump crab cakes, beef tenderloin with bleu cheese, or New York strip made carpetbagger-style with the addition of fried oysters. Service is professional and the view into the kitchen still impresses.

THE PARKSIDE FINE FOOD AND SPIRITS4709 HARFORD ROAD, (410) 444-6004, THEPARKSIDEONLINE.COM, $$Built on the premises of a 1920s theater in Lauraville, the Parksides huge, open-floor-plan restaurant also incorporates a kids play area,


R A R A H

INDIGMA


1444 LIGHT ST :: BALTIMORE :: 410.234.1900 :: www.bicyclebistro.comOpen Tue-Thu 5:30pm-9pm, Fri-Sat 5:30pm-10pm :: Reservations strongly recommended

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a bakery, and a food market. The place has a cozy atmosphere de-spite its size, in part due to the eclectic casual dcor. Not every-thing on the menu will take your breath away (the desserts, with the notable exception of the vegan chocolate cake, look better than they taste). However, entre items like the coconut pork topped with savory chimichurri and appetizers such as the coffee-rubbed beef are worthy of relish.

PETERS INN504 S. ANN ST., (410) 675-7313, PETERSINN.COM, $$-$$$, Although the menu changes fre-quently at Fells Points Peters Inn, you can always count on sitting elbow to elbow in the narrow bar-cum-dining room, finding a plethora of toiletries in the ladies room, and the inclusion of a seven-ounce filet mignon, or 13-ounce N.Y. strip steak with mashed potatoes and 100% pure butter among a combination of seafood dishes (often steamed mussels and clams with chorizo) and dinner salads (like sashimi tuna on a bed of seaweed). Be there before dinner service begins at 6:30 P.M. to claim a table.

PIERPOINT RESTAURANT1822 ALICEANNA ST., (410) 675-2080, PIERPOINTRESTAURANT.COM, $$$Hard to believe its been open for 20 years now, but Pierpoint continues to deliver high-quality regional dishes with a focus on Maryland classics. There are, of course, the smoked crab cakes, but dont miss the awesome Balto box, an appetizer that includes the cakes plus refined iterations of coddies, fried oysters, and clams casino. The Maryland fried chicken breast with grits and greens and Moroccan lamb chops with saffron mashed potatoes are also exceptional.

SALT2127 E. PRATT ST., (410) 276-5480, SALTTAVERN.COM, $$$Probably the vanguard of upscale bar food (now something of a trend in Baltimore), the shiny and col-orful Salt provides a place for the well-heeled in East Baltimore to mingle over fancy cocktails and imaginative, elaborate takes on comfort foods that draw from global influences. The kobe and

foie gras sliders are awesome, as are bourbon-glazed seared scal-lops and pork belly, and lamb stroganoff. Service can be spotty, particularly on those busy week-end nights.

THE WINE MARKET921 E. FORT AVE., (410) 244-6166, THE-WINE-MARKET.COM, $$-$$$Now in its fifth year, the Wine Market only seems to be getting better. The New American menu consistently offers interesting preparations, like salt-roasted veal loin or sake-marinated slow-roasted black cod, and the a la carte brunch with its gourmet bacon breakfast burrito and crab, roasted red pepper, and asiago frittata shouldnt be overlooked. Wine with dinner is still a relative bargain if you purchase from the shop in the front.

WOODBERRY KITCHEN2010 CLIPPER PARK ROAD, (410) 464-8000, WOODBERRYKITCHEN.COM, $$-$$$Five years ago, we wouldnt have believed that one of the best res-taurants in town would be next to the Woodberry light rail stop. But, Spike Gjerdes farm-to-ta-ble restaurant has pulled it off. Woodberry Kitchen is packed ev-ery night, largely because of the variety it offers. Grab a flatbread special for a casual affordable night out with friends or go whole hog with a small plate and entre for a fancy dinner with someone special. Whatever you get, it is sure to illustrate Gjerdes expert flavor combinations and simple, but sub-lime preparations.

DELIS

ATTMANS AUTHENTIC NEW YORK DELICATESSEN1019 E. LOMBARD ST., (410) 563-2666, ATTMANSDELI.COM, $Not only is Attmans a local institu-tion, but writing that Attmans is a local institution is a local insti-tution. So just go already. Wiggle your way along the famously long and bustling counter to order up top-notch New York-style deli sandwiches (be sure to know what you wantits usually busy back there). The corned beef, pastrami, and brisket are always good, but

theres a sandwich for every oc-casion on the voluminous wall-mounted menu, in addition to the renowned bologna-wrapped jumbo kosher dog.

DI PASQUALES3700 GOUGH ST., (410) 276-6787, DIPASQUALES.COM, $ For nearly a century serving as a one-stop shop for any and all of ones Italian culinary needs, Di Pasquales boasts a vast selection of deli and cured meats, cheeses, pasta, imported non-perishables, wines, and liqueurs. The prepared food case is dazzling, and there is even a dining area between the brick oven and the small fresh pro-duce section. The lunch menu lists the expected sandwiches, some-times using unexpected meats, but also offers more substantial entre and pasta options all homemade, reasonably priced, and delicious.

FREDAS KITCHEN1604 KELLY AVE., (410) 367-7840, FREDASKITCHEN.COM, $This new Mount Washington spot sorta looks like someones mom set it upbright paint on the walls, aggressively colorful art, nice lightingbut if so, mom sure knows from old-school deli counter goodness, complete with serious corned beef and pastrami. Plus tongue. Tongue!

HOWARD GOURMET DELI701 N. HOWARD ST., (410) 523-0005, $There are a few of these little sandwich/subs/fries delis in and around Mount Vernon, and finding one that actually stands out from the pack was quite a surprise. Its probably not as gourmet as its name suggests, but its got some out of the ordinary, creative choices on the menu, from the veggie cas-tle sandwich to the chicken Aurora wrap to gut-busting platters like hot roast beef and jumbo shrimp. The menu here is massiveif you can think of a sandwich combi-nation its probably on it with a goofy name. And the french fries are outstanding.

TRINACRIA MACARONI WORKS406 N. PACA ST., (410) 685-7285, $The neighborhood is dreary, the hours odd (Tuesday through

Saturday, 8:00 A.M. to 4:30 P.M.) The store is cramped. They pack gro-ceries in a cardboard box. But they make panini sandwiches the size of your head, with crusty bread, high-quality meats and cheeses, and dressings that blend together to create multi-dimensional fla-vor. For over 100 years, the family owned Italian-American grocery has been selling bulk products at bargain prices. Cheese, olives, and cookies come by the pound. All sorts of pasta, homemade sauces, and olive oils make you forget about the Prego.

DINERS

JIMMYS801 S. BROADWAY, (410) 327-3273, $A cornerstone of Fells Point, Jimmys slings up your standard diner food, but then there are the crisp, gossamer waffles, the sweet perfume of which greets patrons at the front door. The waffles are available with syrup-laden fruit topping, but we suggest just whipped cream and butter. Service is blazing fast at the counter, not so much in a busy dining roombide your time with those strangely fascinating placemat advertise-ments.

NEW WYMAN PARK RESTAURANT138 W. 25TH ST., (410) 235-5100, $ A good choice if youre in Charles Village and crave breakfast food, al-though the sandwiches and entres are also pleasant, and all are priced low. The booths and counter can fill up seemingly instantly, especially on weekend mornings, while carry out can take a while, so call your order in ahead of time. Note that the New Wyman has pretty good grits, very good soups, the iced tea is unbelievably sweet, and it closes in the early afternoon.

PAPERMOON DINER227 W. 29TH ST., (410) 889-4444, PAPERMOONDINER24.COM, $E c l e c t i c t o s a y t h e l e a s t , PaperMoons dcor looks like the result of a disturbed 7-year-old boy who got hold of all his sisters playthings. Mannequins chained to dirt-filled bath tubs greet pa-trons outside and army men and Barbie dolls spin inside from the ceiling fans. PaperMoons food



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surpasses normal diner fare. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are available all day with a variety of vegetarian and vegan options. On the downside, the restaurant is no longer open 24 hours, which is heresy.

SIP AND BITE2200 BOSTON ST., (410) 675-7077, $Its hard not to order breakfast at what may be Baltimores best 24-hour-diner (hours may vary due to remodeling), but the Sip and Bites other food is damn good, too. The long list of daily specials always includes satisfy-ing American and Greek classics, and though theyve jumped a bit in price (to a whopping $7.00), the hand-patted, grilled burgers still rock. People never believe us, but the crab cake here really is pretty good, as are the homemade soups. After last call on weekends, its so crowded weve actually encoun-tered a door man refusing entry. Also save yourself some grief and bring cash.

TAMBERS3327 ST. PAUL ST., (410) 243-5777, TAMBERSRESTAURANT.COM, $-$$After a renovation, Tambers went from being a 50s-inspired diner where you could get a milkshake and saag paneer in the same orderif you could handle that comboto a bland family-friend-ly restaurant where you can order meatloaf and decent Indian fare from a huge menu. Theres plenty here to please a picky party and the courteous and attentive staff still harken to that bygone era.

ECLECTIC

GOLDEN WEST CAF1105 W. 36TH ST., (410) 889-8891, GOLDENWESTCAFE.COM, $-$$Baltimore has plenty of good breakfast places, but they rarely stray past the traditional eggs and pork products, or perhaps some sauced-up brunch fare. Golden Wests Southwestern slant and early-adopter slow-food-iness remain a breath of fresh air on the local fast-breaking scene, even after a decade. Seriously, the Frisbee-sized pancakes alone make it essential. Even better, Golden Wests chile-laden, veg-gie-friendly menu spans all three

major meals with salads, sand-wiches, and entres, while the restaurant itself has hung onto its casual-hang vibe, which is a good thing any time of day.

HELENS GARDEN 2908 ODONNELL ST., (410) 276-2233, HELENSGARDEN.COM, $$The setting at Helens Garden is whimsical and romantic. This ODonnell Square fixture is a maze of quaint, tiny two-tops dotted by refined lamps and bud vases. The menu is taste-ful and straightforward, offer-ing items like pecan-crusted trout, but what the dishes lack in imagination they make up for in taste. Sunday brunch at Helens is always packed, and it still boasts Baltimores lon-gest happy hour from 11:30 A.M. until 8 P.M. Tuesdays through Sundays. Seating at the sun-lit bar is usually limited, but the atmosphere and food make the wait worth it.

IXIA518 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 727-1800, IXIA-ONLINE.COM, $$$If theres a prevailing accent at Ixia, weve never discerned it. Asian ingredients marry with French technique, and New American meets Old World. The eclectic food and equally eclectic dcor dont quite congeal into one particular theme or approach, but the creativity and flavor coming out of the kitchen and the soaring ceilings of the main dining room provide the necessary expansive-ness to deal with that.

ROCKET TO VENUS3360 CHESTNUT AVE., (410) 235-7887, ROCKETTOVENUS.COM, $$Remember when Hampden had little more than that pizza place with the gargantuan slices? Those days are long gone, partly because of Rocket to Venus, the retro-chic joint with the delicious Brussels sproutsyeah, we said Brussels sproutsand cornmeal-fried oysters. There are plenty of draft beers, a wine list that ex-tends from Australia to Europe to California, a knack for large cocktails, plus a jukebox with artists ranging from G.G. Allin to the Jackson Five.


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SASCHAS 527 CAF527 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 539-8880, SASCHAS.COM, $$-$$$,High ceilings, moody lighting, and dramatic flower arrange-ments all work to give Saschas a romantic downtown vibe. Small plates like Baja tacos, shrimp and grits, and the perennial mental greens salad hold more interest than larger entrees. Desserts are a meal in themselves.

ZE MEAN BEAN CAF1739 FLEET ST., (410) 675-5999, ZEMEANBEAN.COM, $$-$$$Dining at Ze Mean Bean can be pricey, but the Eastern European menu is unique, and the cozy in-terior is inviting. Because of the menus heavy reliance on former Soviet-bloc staples like potato cakes and goulash, Ze Bean is a good place to go for a filling win-

tertime meal. The maple pork with honey and horseradish is especially delectable. Not everythings a hit, though; less adventurous palates should perhaps steer clear of the unfamiliar.

ETHIOPIAN

DUKEM #21100 MARYLAND AVE., (410) 385-0318, DUKEMRESTAURANT.COM, $-$$Luckily, pretty much the only E t h io p i a n d i n i n g o p t io n i n Baltimore is also dependable, af-fordable, and delicious. Large par-ties or bottomless stomachs can order multiple full-sized portions of the entres, from tibs (cubed lamb marinated in a piquant sauce) to vegetarian fare, but solitary diners and the normal appetite can savor

the combination samplers, which can include a tibs item and a wot (stew), plus veggies. Carnivores should definitely check out the minchet abesh, ground beef sizzled in ginger and garlic.

FRENCH

BONAPARTE BREADS903 S. ANN ST., (410) 342-4000, $This Fells Point bakery boasts a sur-prisingly expansive dining area with additional al fresco dining (weather permitting). Pastries are excellentone would be hard-pressed to find a superior almond croissantbut Bonaparte also serves savory fare. A multitude of loaves and rolls of varying shapes, sizes, and crustiness are, of course, available, along with a selection of elegant sandwiches and light

lunch options, usually salads and a quiche or tart or two. Sandwiches are beautifully constructed, but can be a tad skimpy on meat. The cof-fee is excellent, while the service is courteous if a bit terse.

CRPE DU JOUR1609 SULGRAVE AVE., (410) 542-9000, CREPEDUJOUR.COM, $-$$This charming Mount Washington crperie offers a hearty dinner menu, but we prefer to stick to the affordable lunch menu. And the delicious lunch portions are more than succulent. The dessert crpes are tasty, but the savory crpesfeaturing nicely balanced assortments of strong flavors such as bleu cheese with walnuts and mesclun or smoked salmon with cheese and tomato cream sauceare divine.


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MARIE LOUIS BISTRO904 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 385-9946, $$The new enfant on the block in Baltimores once-dead, recent-ly-resurrected, and now again foundering French food scene is a gift to us hoi polloi. Here you can scratch your French home cooking itch with well-executed and thankfully un-messed-with classics like a complex and deeply satisfying bouillabaisse, dense and herby beef bourguignon, or superb duck confit, and almost everything is well under $20. The onion soup is outstanding; sandwiches are hefty and come with excellently crispy fries. Avoid the wan tomato sandwich. The space is gorgeous and waitstaff, though perhaps not the most expert, are earnest and friendly.

PETIT LOUIS4800 ROLAND AVE., (410) 366-9393, PETITLOUIS.COM, $$The demise of Brasserie Tatin makes Petit Louis one of very few straight-up French restaurants in the city. Fortunately, for Francophiles and foodies, this Roland Park entry in the Cindy Wolf/Tony Foreman res-taurant empire has lots to offer. Appetizers and light plates like escargots, pat, foie gras, quiche, and, our fave, the crispy eggplant Napoleon with chevre, just scream Vive la France! The entres offer pitch-perfect preparations of duck and seafood and the best steak frites in town.

HAWAIIAN

ROYS720 ALICEANNA ST., (410) 659-0099, ROYSRESTAURANT.COM, $$$With so many fabulous local res-taurants in Baltimore, we usually avoid chains, but we make an ex-ception for Roys. Not only is it the only Hawaiian restaurant we know of in town, but the service makes it feel more like a hometown joint than one of nearly 40 restaurants worldwide. The Hawaiian dishes created by the chains chef/founder Roy Yamaguchi perfectly blend the sweet and the savory, meld-ing Asian, American, and tropical flavors beautifully. And the atten-tive servers makes every diner feel like a VIP.

INDIAN AND NEPALESE

AKBAR823 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 539-0944, AKBAR-RESTAURANT.COM, $$Akbar has the feel of a secret place. Its not, of course. The yellowish awning over the Mount Vernon basement space has been a fix-ture for more than 25 years. They know what theyre doing here: its quiet inside, elegant, almost, and the staff will make you feel like a regular even on your first trip. Keema naan to start (lamb-stuffed flatbread), then tandoori shrimp, and/or anything korma, with that rich coconut sauce that makes ev-erything tender and smooth.

AMBASSADOR DINING ROOM3811 CANTERBURY ROAD, (410) 366-1484, AMBASSADORDININGROOM.COM, $$The Ambassador Dining Room is one of few restaurants in the city that makes you feel like youre din-ing at a pastoral estate. The tran-quility of the restaurant is partly due to its Tuscany-Canterbury lo-cation. When the weathers nice, the glass terrace doors are opened on to a well-kept garden. Far from pretentious, though, guests are a diverse set, dressed in every-thing from their Sunday best to jeans. The optimum time to go is on Sunday for brunch. Northern Indian treats like samosas are paired with brunch favorites and bottomless mimosas, all served buffet style.

INDIA RASOI411 S. HIGH ST., (410) 385-4900, INDIA-RASOI.COM, $$Though the dcor of this little row-house restaurant is a bit bland, thats certainly no reflection of the food that comes out of the kitchen. Sauces are the hallmark of really good Indian food, and at this Little Italy mainstay rich, spicy masalas and vindaloos, and tangy chutneys and raitas dress tender cubes of chicken, beef, or lamb. Creamy, sweet kormas complement peas and veggie dumplings. And fiery curries bring out the best in fish and shrimp. A winner every time we visit.

INDIGMA802 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 605-1212, INDIGMARESTAURANT.COM, $$What does modern, innovative Indian cooking taste like? A lot like what youll find at Indigma: open-face samosas, rich three-cheese saag paneer, naan spiked with ginger. Portions can appear small, but their richness often makes them more than filling. The snug dining room with its swaths of red and gold fabric gets points for encouraging romance.

KABAB STOP5719 FALLS ROAD, (410) 323-6060, KABAB-STOP.COM, $This Mount Washington pit-stop offering simple, hearty Indian food is better for carry-out than a sit-down in its austere restaurant. Order containers of perfect jasmine rice, rich sauces, moist chicken and lamb, and foil-wrapped chewy naan. Entres come with a fresh vegetable salad of chick peas, pep-pers, and onionsa nice accompa-niment to the creamy sauces and tasty carbs.

KUMARI RESTAURANT AND BAR911 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 547-1600, $$Nepalese cuisine is supposed to be like a cross between Indian and Afghantwo other choices boun-tiful along this stretch of Charles Street. Kumari does most of its work in the tandoor, or creamily-kormaed, very Indian style. The crispy breads are a real treat, and if the service can be a little slow, its always friendly. While youre waiting, you can enjoy a beer and observe the street scene outside the big front window.

MEMSAHIB 400 W. LEXINGTON ST., (410) 576-7777, MEMSAHIBRESTAURANT.COM, $$If youre in the Lexington Market area and need a break from the bustle of downtown, step into MemSahib. Youll feel like youve been transported miles from the city streets and apocalypse cau-tioners outside when you enter the opulent, tranquil dining room of this Indian restaurant. The lunch buffet offers a wide variety of dishes from the usual chicken tikka masala to the unexpected, like stuffed okra. Definitely get the

kheer, rice pudding with carda-mom and almonds for dessert.

MUGHAL GARDEN918 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 547-0001, $-$$One of many fine Indian restau-rants in Mount Vernon, Mughal Garden doesnt get much love. Sure the interior felt dated years ago, but if youre going to eat the food instead of soak up the ambience, Mughal has a lot to recommend it. The lunch buffet, for example, offers a wider and more consis-tent variety than its competitors, ensuring that everyone in a large partysay the editorial staff of a newspapercan find something delicious to eat.

IRISH

JAMES JOYCE IRISH PUB AND RESTAURANT616 S. PRESIDENT ST., (410) 727-5107, THEJAMESJOYCEPUB.COM, $$James Joyce provides the chance to score a proper pour of Guinness when you absolutely positively have to patronize this neck of the Inner Harbors woods. Weve never tried any of the conventional din-ner menu itemscrab cakes, pork chops, and the likebut the Irish staples, such as fish and chips and a solid shepherds pie, are worth checking out.

LUCYS21 N. EUTAW ST., (410) 837-2100, LUCYSIRISHRESTAURANT.COM, $$$Where Maggie Moores, which used to occupy this space, felt more like a pub with nice dining room attached, Lucys somehow feels more like a nice restaurant with a pub attached. Lucys menu offers an extensive selection of nouveau treatssliders Irished up with Blarney cheese, seafood and pasta options, and even some small plates at the bar nowbut the Irish selections sing, especially a gut-busting traditional Irish breakfast, good day or night.

SLAINTE IRISH PUB AND RESTAURANT1700 THAMES ST., (410) 563-6600, SLAINTEPUB.COM, $$This sprawling Fells Point spot has enough self-identity to avoid the Irish-pub-in-a-box trap. Sure, its self-consciously Irish, with



Authentic Spanish Cuisine for Over 40 Years

Reservations Recommended

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Celtic motifs and scripts painted hither and yon, but its not trying to fool you into thinking youre getting drunk in front of Aunty Mollys coal furnace. We go for the real football and rugby matches on the downstairs TVs, relaxing with real, honest-to-god Irish people (and our American pals), drinking expert pours of Guinness, and eating excellent sandwiches, burgers, and respectable, if a bit pricey, shepherds pie.

ITALIAN

ALDOS306 S. HIGH ST., (410) 727-0700, ALDOSITALY.COM, $$$ Sophisticated and Little Italy dont always go together unless youre dining at Aldos, and then do they ever. The menu is over the toptournedos Rossini with seared Hudson Valley foie gras and Italian black truffle and porcini mushroom sauce; butter-poached lobster risotto deglazed with Highland scotchas are the prices, and the wine list is packed with big name Italian (and American) bottles. If your pockets are deep and your palate is willing, a feast awaits.

AMICCIS OF LITTLE ITALY 231 S. HIGH ST., (410) 528-1096, AMICCIS.COM, $$ Sometimes you just gotta have Italian food. Lucky for us in these difficult economic times theres Amiccis, a no-frills, moderately priced Italian comfort-food wonder palace with entres two to three dollars cheaper than the neighbors. Weve gushed over the appetizer pane rotundo, a bread bowl filled with seafood and sauce, ad nau-seam. Why not try the luscious eggplant parmigiana along with one of Amiccis reasonably priced glasses of wine?

CAF GIA410 S. HIGH ST., (410) 685-6727, ITALIANRESTAURANTBALTIMORE.COM, $$ If theres a warmer, cozier spot in Little Italy, we havent found it yet. Gia Blatterman-Fugates caf on the corner of High Street and Eastern Avenue offers hearty Sicilian fare at very reasonable prices (and you can bring your own bottle, $5 cork-


R A R A H

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Reopening: March 2009

Baltimores Oldest Brew Pub Is Getting A Brand New Look

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age fee). Pasta entrees like ravioli positano or homemade gnocchi impress more than starters, but be sure to save room for homemade cannolis flecked with lemon zest.

CINGHIALE822 LANCASTER ST., (410) 547-8282, CINGHIALE-OSTERIA.COM, $$-$$$Just a few blocks from the largely Southern Italian stylings of Little Italy sits Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolfs upscale Northern Italian culinary extravaganza. Physically divided into a bistro-like enoteca and a more formal osteria (plus a handsome bar area), the res-taurant dishes the same excel-lent fare throughout, serving up choice charcuterie, pastas, and one of the most adroit and flavorful entre line-ups in town, chang-ing seasonally, but rife with rich ingredients and the occasional game item. Theres a section of

the formidable menu devoted to gourmet versions of staples like lasagna and spaghetti-and-red, but the timid miss out.

FRANKS PIZZA AND PASTA6620 BELAIR ROAD, (410) 254-2900, FRANKSPIZZAANDPASTA.COM, $-$$.Situated in an Overlea strip mall, Franks doesnt look like much from the outside (the inside is no designers delight either), but the food and neighborly service make you want to linger anyway. Thin-crust pizzas and chubby meatball subs bring out the kid in us, but dont overlook homemade pastas, especially ones featuring seafood, like linguini a la pescatore or the crab-based pasta a la Felice. You or-der from the counter, eat on paper plates, and BYOB.

GRANO PASTA BAR1031 W. 36TH ST., (443) 869-3429, GRANOPASTABARUS.COM, $$Grano, a tiny pasta bar that opened in Hampden last year, does pretty much one thing, but it does it well. Choose a pasta, choose a sauce, start eating. Simple, unpretentious, it is what it is and it does what it does. Seats are limited, so it gets a little full, but the employees are friendly enough to make the wait worthwhile.

SOTTO SOPRA405 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 625-0534, SOTTOSOPRAINC.COM, $$$We enjoy Little Italy, but when were looking for a fancy Italian meal, we often end up in midtown at Sotto Sopra. The swank, dimly lit dining room instantaneously makes a meal romantic, the offer-ings are inventivewe love the duck-stuffed ravioliand even

classic fare is always a step above: The mussels in a simple but flavor-ful white wine sauce might be the best weve ever had. Now, if only we could figure out the mural on the dining room wall.

VACCAROS ITALIAN PASTRY SHOP 2919 ODONNELL ST., (410) 276-4744; 222 ALBEMARLE ST., (410) 685-4905; VACCAROSPASTRY.COM, $The charm of the Little Italy Vaccaros on a hot night is undeni-able, especially if the old men are out playing bocce ball or Cinema Paradiso is being projected on the wall across the way. What its Canton counterpart lacks in old-world ap-peal it makes up for in modernity. Sleek and brightly lit, the ODonnell Street Vaccaros is contemporary and actually big enough for you to not only sit down in, but see the entire pastry and gelato case.


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JAPANESE

ALOHA SUSHI1218 N. CHARLES ST., (443) 759-8531, $-$$Everything about Aloha Sushi is just right. Central Mount Vernon location? Check. Out the door tip-sy and full for $30 (for a couple)? Check. Fresh and plentiful fish? Check. The generally quiet dining room is dressed simply with spare Asian dcor, service is without fail friendly and prompt, and with a $1 sushi menu and most other items falling in the less-than-$10 range, the food is pleasantly affordable. Sushi is subject to individual taste, but we could nosh on buttery yel-lowtail nigiri until our stomachs rupture; ditto for the small elegant crispy rolls drizzled with pop-in-your-mouth beads of roe.

FAMOUS YAKITORI ONE2101 MARYLAND AVE., (410) 332-1100, $Baltimore has long needed a place like this: a Japanese restaurant that eschews sushi for cheap and de-licious national dishes. Famous Yakitori One delivers with a variety of yakitori from traditional flavors like chicken gizzard to nouveau offerings like avocado wrapped in bacon. The ramen is flavorful and will make you forget all about Cup O Noodles. We havent tried the okonomiyaki (a savory pancake that weve only had in Japan), but we cant wait. The friendly and at-tentive service and the cool subter-ranean dining room make this a place where we could see becom-ing regulars.

MATSURI1105 S. CHARLES ST., (410) 752-8561, MASTURI.US, $$No matter how many fancy new places with rotating sushi bars or specialty cocktails open in town, we gravitate to Matsuri when we get that raw-fish yen. But theres more to Matsuri than fresh, fla-vorful sashimi, sushi, and stunt rollsthere are also plenty of out-standing Japanese noodle dishes, sobas, soups, donburis, and even some teriyakis on the menu. And if you want a little taste of every-thing, order a bento boxsushi, daily appetizer special, teriyaki, and tempura.

MINATO1013 N. CHARLES ST., (410) 332-0332, MINATOSUSHIBAR.COM, $$Minato had a place in the little nub of wasabi we call a heart long be-

fore it moved into its stylish digs just south of Chase Street. Owner Alex Tran and his crack staff make diners feel like part of the family. The fish is fresh and sumptuous, the stunt rolls are inventive, mas-terfully combining flavors like the tsunami rolls with spicy tuna and avocado inside and mango outside, and the non-sushi entrees like pho, soba, udon, katsu, tempura, and don are hearty and thoroughly enjoyable.

SUSHI HANA6080 FALLS ROAD, (410) 377-4228, SUSHIHANABALTIMORE.COM; 6 E. PENNSYLVANIA AVE., TOWSON, (410) 823-0372, SUSHIHANATOWSON, $$Both Sushi Hanas original Towson Circle location and its newer ven-ture behind the Lake Falls Village Center in Mount Washington have much to recommend them,


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though weve become partial to the Baltimore location for its more modern interior, ample parking, and not-in-Towson-ness. At ei-ther location youll find some of the freshest tastiest fish in the area with myriad stunt rollsthe list covers the front and back of a page and its not large type. And the sushi combination specials are reasonably priced and come with soup, salad, and a generous offering of fish.

KOREAN

JOUNG KAK18 W. 20TH ST., (410) 837-5231, $$Its partisans will tell you this is the best Korean restaurant in Baltimore City, and with all due respect to the competition, they may be right. It doesnt hurt that in addition to the typical hot pots and so on, Joung Kak offers the Korean staple that is table-top

grilling, wherein you cook your own from a panoply of proteins. We suggest a sizeable party and big appetites.

NAM KANG2126 MARYLAND AVE., (410) 685-6237, $$Down those narrow, unprepos-sessing steps lies deliciousness at nearly any time of day or night. The basement space that contains Baltimores longest-running Korean restaurant has received some sprucing up in recent years, but the reasons to patronize re-main the same: a panoply of Asian soul food (plus some Chinese en-trees and sushi) served up hot and sour till 4 A.M. Noodle dishes, hot pots, dumplings, crpes, banchan. All good.

SHIN CHON8801 BALTIMORE NATIONAL PIKE, ELLICOTT CITY, (410) 461-3280, $$Traveling on 40 West into Howard


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MexicanRestaurant & Bar

Photos by: Beverlee


County, you may notice something unusualAsians, everywherewhich means youre probably in Ellicott City. As logic would dictate, there are lots of good Asian res-taurants here, too, including Shin Chon, far and away the best Korean barbecue restaurant north of 495. Glistening fresh meats are expertly marinated, neatly trimmed, and served with not only numerous, high-quality banchan (the true test of a Korean place), but also with drool-inducing fermented soybean stew, an often overlooked touch of authenticity. Beware Sunday af-ternoons, as startlingly aggressive post-church diners vie for parking and tables.

LATIN

ARCOS RESTAURANT AND BAR129 S. BROADWAY, (410) 522-4777, ARCOSRESTAURANTE.COM, $$Because theres no dearth of qual-ity Mexican restaurants in Fells Point, it can be difficult to pick a favorite. Arcos can seem pricey compared to its area competitors, but it proves worth the added ex-pense. This is especially true if you can dine in their courtyard, which has the atmosphere of an eatery in Rosarito Beach. The menu is diverse and includes a selection of traditional seafood dishes like camarones al ajillo.

CHICKEN RICO3728 EASTERN AVE., (410) 522-2950, $Hands down the best Peruvian chicken in Baltimore, possibly in Maryland. Weve sampled the stuff at dozens of places from here to D.C., and none can match Chicken Ricos consistently moist meat (even the white meat is always juicy), savory, pervasive spice rub, and smoky, lightly charred skin. Even their version of the essential green sauce (spicy pepper and cilantro) is vastly superior. Daily specials feature more homestyle dishes like ceviche and cau cau (stewed tripe), but trust us, get some chicken with a side of corn and fried rice. Youre welcome in advance.


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EL TORITO MEXICAN RESTAURANT110 W. MULBERRY ST., (410) 244-7072, ELTORITO.COM, $A tidy place with ample din-ing space that serves really, re-ally good, reasonably authentic Mexican right in Mount Vernon. El Torito is located on a block that doesnt get a ton of foot traffic, but take the extra few steps and be re-warded with great food and warm, friendly service. The fried whole fish is excellent, crisp and juicy. Dinner platters are enormous, and the homemade sauces here are particularly good. Anything with chorizo is outstanding, tacos are available with myriad meat fillings, and fruit smoothies make for a nice dessert.

EL TROVADOR 318 S. BROADWAY, (410) 276-6200, ELTROVADORRESTAURANT.COM, $-$$ El Trovadors spacious dining room, friendly waitstaff, and great food are the best reason we can think of to visit Fells Point. The tangy orange-colored salsa is a cut above thanks to the secret ingre-dient (is it radish? carrot?). Dont miss the pupusas, which come with the aforementioned salsa and cabbage, the platanos con cre-ma (lightly fried plantains with refried beans and sour cream), and the tamal de elote (steamed corn tamale).

HOLY FRIJOLES!908 W. 36TH ST., (410) 235-2326, $Friendly Hampden spot Holy Frijoles! has recently added some new menu items, like a stuffed red bell pepper, but we always or-der the same thing: tacos. They are delish whether filled with ground beef like mom used to make, salty pork, shredded beef, grilled chicken, or black beans, in a hard corn shell or soft flour tortillas. If tacos arent your thing, order burritos or quesadillas and be sure to get a side of guacamole and some margaritas making ev-ery meal mucho mejor.

LA SIRENITA RESTAURANTE II3928 EASTERN AVE., (410) 522-5055, $$Perched right on the border of Highlandtown and Greektown, La Sirenita was one of the first

restaurants in Baltimore to serve food that was less Tex and more Mex and its still trucking. As the name indicates (the Little Mermaid, awww!) seafood is the star here, mostly in the form of shrimp dishes. Also available are sopes, chilaquiles, tortas, even cordoniz frita (fried quail)the menu is helpfully illustrated with photos for the uninitiated. Service is fast and friendly and the language barrier usually isnt an issue.

LOS AMIGOS5506 HARFORD ROAD, (410) 444-4220, LOSAMIGOSBALTIMORE.COM, $$Straight-up Tex-Mex (and some Peruvian) belly-filling fare with consistently above-average qual-ity and preparation. The service is very friendly, and the mar-garitas are decent. Los Amigos homemade salsa is very good. The menu is delineated into numbered options, with dinner platters consisting of variations on your standard burrito/taco/enchilada type combinations. Tamales here are also pretty good, and come in either red (pork) or green (chicken) varieties.

MARI LUNA LATIN GRILLE 1010 REISTERSTOWN ROAD, PIKESVILLE, (410) 653-5151, MARILUNA.COM, $$Think of Mari Luna Latin Grille, the newest venture from chef/owner Jaime Luna, as the worldly, sophisticated sister of Lunas pop-ular Mari Luna Mexican Grill. The Latin Grilles menu pulls from all over South and Central America, offering empanadas and yucca fries, tangy ropa vieja, and some of the best local paella weve eaten. The sleek, contemporary dining room makes you forget the restaurant is part of a subur-ban strip.

NACHO MAMAS2907 ODONNELL ST., (410) 675-0898, NACHOMAMASCANTON.COM, $$Crammed with Elvis, Colts, and Boh memorabilia, Nacho Mamas puts a unique personal spin on Tex-Mex. Quesadillas contain crab, smoked gouda, and roasted pepper, while fish tacos are made with tuna and roasted garlic. Chili authentico is


Award Winning Fine Mexican And Salvadoran

TRY OURPLATOEl TROVADOR& CHIPOTLEFAJITASThe Critics Have Spoken:ZAGAT RATED 2007

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www.eltrovadorrestaurant.com www.restauranteeltrovador.comConvenient parking around the corner on Bank St.

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dark, deep, smoky, chocolate-y al-most, with hunks of tender beef served in a fried tortilla bowl, as is the excellent fresh guacamole. The kitchen reaches a bit higher on the list of daily specials, which are often littered with wry Steelers jabs. Not to mention the delicious margaritas served in a hubcap.

TORTILLERIA SINALOA1716 EASTERN AVE., (410) 276-3741, $A bright and colorful counter serv-ing tacos made with two hand-made corn tortillas stuffed with spiced chicken, pork, tongue, beef, fish, or goat, plus fresh parsley and mild white onion. Squeeze some lime, a dash of salt, and a bit of red or green hot sauces, and a swipe of the tiny side of guacamole. This tortilleria never disappoints for lunch or an early dinner, and also sells meat and tortillas in bulk for a fiesta at home.

MEDITERRANEAN

BLACK OLIVE814 S. BOND ST., (410) 276-7141, THEBLACKOLIVE.COM, $$-$$$Fells Point Greek restaurant Black Olive is serious about fish. So seri-ous that dining there includes a tour of the seafood case with your server explaining each item with the kind of detailed flavor analysis usually reserved for wine. We love the stuffed baby calamari and the grilled octopus salad to start, both so wonderfully tender youll rue the rubbery iterations youve had elsewhere. Then its right on to a whole prepared fishwhichever one our waiter looks most rap-turous when describing. Theyve never steered us wrong.

HILLTOP CARRY-OUT600 E. FORT AVE., (410) 752-1971, HILLTOPCARRYOUT.COM, $What separates this otherwise un-remarkable south Baltimore pizza and sub shop are its late-night hours, and the gargantuan and delicious gyro that is served here. The thing is massive to the point of impeding the eating process, always steaming hot and oozing with tzatziki and gyro meat grease, which is good for dripping onto the attendant hot and crisp fries. The perfect recharge, or preventative measure, if youre out drinking in Federal Hill or Locust Point.


R A R A H

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KALIS COURT RESTAURANT1606 THAMES ST., (410) 276-4700, KALISCOURT.COM, $$-$$$It seems you cant venture south of Fleet Street these days without running into a veal reduction here or a tomato coulis there, which is one of the many reasons its worth revisiting Kalis Court. Elegant din-ing with an ambitious menu has been the hallmark of this Thames Street spot since Harbor East was mostly bus parking, and the kitchen continues to turn out fine seafood with a Mediterranean accent and more.

KALIS MEZZE1606 THAMES ST., (410) 563-7600, KALISMEZZE.COM, $$This Mediterranean small plates restaurant is part of the Kalis Court restaurant mini-empire and, like all the restaurants in this group, shows an attention to detail that is impressive. From the

lovely upstairs dining room to the broad menu, everything here feels carefully thought out to create a blissful dining experience. As for what to eat, we love the goat-cheese-stuffed red peppers, the beef moussaka, and the heavenly tarama dip, but the small plate format encourages trying new dishes on every visit.

MISS IRENES1738 THAMES ST., (410) 558-0033, MISSIRENESBALTIMORE.COM, $$$The old Miss Irenes was a run-down dive filled with artists, tradesmen, waitresses, drunks, and people who rode their mo-torcycles too fast. A night there promised good conversation, a cold (and occasionally frozen) beer, and maybe a thrown punch. It was a wonderful place, but the bar was bought, remodeled, and reopened under the same name. Miss Irenes now serves pricey entrees with an emphasis on


PETIT LOUIS


Hot

Corned

Beef that m

eltsin

your

mo

uth

1019 E. Lomba

Eat Guide 2009

Documents

best neighborhood restaurant

city papers dining guide

awarded best restaurant

charm city

good baltimore city

restaurant writeups

frank hamilton

bolton streetbaltimore