DYEING: DEFINITIONS DYEING • UNIFORM COLOURATION OF TEXTILE MATERIAL IN FIBRE, YARN OR FABRIC FORM. • THE COLOUR PRODUCED SHOULD WITHSTAND EXTERNAL AGENCIES SUCH AS WASHING, LIGHT, RUBBING etc TO WHICH TEXTILE MATERIAL IS SUBJECTED DURING USE. • THE COLOURATION SHOULD NOT RESTRICT ONLY TO THE FIBRE SURFACE BUT SHOULD PENETRATE THE FIBRE CROSS SECTION. • THE SURFACE COLOURATION IS KNOWN AS RING DYEING.
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DYEING: DEFINITIONS DYEING UNIFORM COLOURATION OF TEXTILE MATERIAL IN FIBRE, YARN OR FABRIC FORM. THE COLOUR PRODUCED SHOULD WITHSTAND EXTERNAL AGENCIES.
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DYEING: DEFINITIONS
DYEING
• UNIFORM COLOURATION OF TEXTILE MATERIAL IN FIBRE, YARN OR FABRIC FORM.
• THE COLOUR PRODUCED SHOULD WITHSTAND EXTERNAL AGENCIES SUCH AS WASHING, LIGHT, RUBBING etc TO WHICH TEXTILE MATERIAL IS SUBJECTED DURING USE.
• THE COLOURATION SHOULD NOT RESTRICT ONLY TO THE FIBRE SURFACE BUT SHOULD PENETRATE THE FIBRE CROSS SECTION.
• THE SURFACE COLOURATION IS KNOWN AS RING DYEING.
DYEING: DEFINITIONSPAINTING
• APPLICATION OF COLOUR TO ANY SURFACE WITH THE HELP OF SUITABLE ADHESIVE. IT IS BASICALLY SURFACE COLOURATION. HAS FASTNESS PROPERTY TO SOME EXTERNAL AGENCIES DEPENDING ADHESIVE FORCES BETWEEN (FIBRE) SURFACE AND COLOURING COMPOUND.TINTING
• SURFACE COLURATION. NO FASTNESS PROPERTY TO EXTERNAL AGENCIES. THE PROCESS IS USED FOR FIBRE IDENTIFICATION OF DIFFERENT VARIETIES DURING SPINNINGPRINTING
• LOCALIZED COLOURATION IN THE FORM OF DESIGN. DYE PENETRATION IN THE FIBRE CROSS SECTION
DYES AND PIGMENTS
DYES• COLOUR COMPOUND• SOLUBLE IN WATER OR CAN BE MADE SOLUBLE IN
WATER• POSSESSES AFFINITY TO FIBRE TO BE DYED• PENETRATION OF DYE IN FIBRE CROSS-SECTION
UNDER DYEING CONDITIONS• INTERACT WITH FIBRE WITH SUITBLE DYE-FIBRE
INTERACTIVE FORCES DEPENDING ON THE NATURE OF FIBRE AND NATURE OF DYE
• NATURE OF DYE-FIBRE INTERACTION DETERMINES THE FASTNESS PROPERTY OF DYE TO EXTERNAL AGENCIES. THERE SOME EXCEPTIONS TO THIS RULE.
DYES AND PIGMENTS
TINTING COLOURS• DYES HAVING NO AFFINITY TO FIBRE.
• EASILY REMOVED DURING WASHING
PIGMENTS• COLOURING COMPOUND
• INSOLUBLE IN WATER
• NO AFFINITY TO FIBRE
• NO INTERACTION WITH FIBRE
AFFINITY OR SUBSTANTIVITY
• ATTRACTION BETWEEN DYE AND FIBRE UNDER GIVEN DYEING CONDITIONS.
• ABILITY OF DYE TO MOVE FROM SOLUTION PHASE TO FIBRE PHASE DURING THE DYEING OPERATION
• THIS MEANS REDUCTION IN DYE CONCENTRATION
IN SOLUTION PHASE AND CORRESPONDING
INCREASE OF DYE CONCENTRATION IN FIBRE
PHASE WITH DYEING TIME.
• DYES HAVE AFFINITY TO FIBRE
• PIGMENT AND TINTING COLOURS HAVE NO
AFFINITY TOWARDS FIBRE.
CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES
NATURALVEGETABLE ANIMAL
COTTON WOOL
JUTE SILK
RAMIE
LINEN
REGENERATED
VISCOSE
CELLULOSE ACETATE
SYNTHETIC
POLYESTER, NYLON, ACRYLIC
CLASSIFICATION OF DYESWATER SOLUBLE SUITABILITY TO FIBRE
• DIRECT COTTON, WOOL, SILK, NYLON• ACID WOOL, SILK, NYLON• BASIC OR CATIONIC MAINLY ACRYLIC, LIMITED
• VAT DYES ON COTTON• EXCELLENT WASH FASTNESS PROPERTY
REASONS• DYE INSIDE FIBRE WATER INSOLUBLE FORM
• STATE OF DYE INSIDE FIBRE AGGREGATED (VERY HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT)
• BOTH THESE FACTORS LEAD TO VERY HIGH WASH FASTNESS ON COTTON THOUGH WEAK FORCES OF DYE-FIBRE INTERACTION
DISPERSE DYES ON POLYESTER• DYE INSIDE FIBRE WATER INSOLUBLE FORM• VERY COMPACT PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF FIBRE
• DYE UNABLE TO DIFFUSE OUT UNDER WASHING CONDITIONS
BRIEF HISTORY OF DYEING
• PRACTICED AS EARLY AS • 3000 B C IN CHINA• 2500 B C IN INDIA• DYED GARMENTS FOUND IN EGYPTIAN TOMBS• KNOWLEDGE OF DYEING WENT TO EGYPT THROUGH INDIA• DYES USED WERE OF NATURAL ORIGIN, • EXTRACTION FROM PLANTS OR INSECTS
PLANT DYES• INDIGO, MADDER
INSECT DYES• LAC, COCHENEAL, KERMES• MAJORITY OF NATURAL DYES ARE FIXED ONTO FIBRE WITH
THE HELP OF METAL SALTS KNOWN AS MORDANTS IMPORTANT MORDANTS
• ALUM, FeSO4, CuSO4, SnCl2, K2CR2O7
SYNTHETIC DYES• 1856 FIRST SYNTHETIC DYE. WILLIAM PERKIN, ENGLAND• CHANCE DISCOVERY• AT THE AGE OF 14, ASSOCIATED WITH FAMOUS GERMAN
CHEMIST HOFFMAN• FASCINATED BY EXPERIMENTS IN ORGANIC CHEMISTRY• SET UP HIS OWN LABORATORY AT RESIDENCE• EXPLORED EXPERIMENTS IN CHEMISTRY IN HIS
LABORATORY AFTER OFFICE HOURS AND ON HOLIDAYS • IN THE COURSE OF EXPERIMENTS OXIDIZED ANILINE WITH
K2Cr2O7, OBTAINED BLACK PRECIPITATE• BLACK PRECIPITATE EXTRACTED WIT ETHYL ALCOHOL
GAVE BRILL. PURPLE SOLUTION WHICH COLULD USED FOR COLORATION OF SILK
• FIRST SYNTHETIC DYE MAUVE• AT THE AGE OF 18 PERKIN SET UP HIS OWN FACTORY FOR
MANUFACTURE OF DYES ON INDUSTRIAL SCALE• MANY CHEMIST IN EUROPE STARTED WORKING ON DYE
SYNTHESIS
100 YEARS OF CHRONOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS OF SYNTHEIC DYES
• 1856 FIRST SYNTHETIC DYE (PURPLE ), PERKIN• 1858 DISCOVERY OF THE PROCESS OF DIAZOTIZATION
AND COUPLING, PETER GREISS• 1859 MAGENTA DYE, FRENCH CHEMIST VERGUIN• 1862 FIRST SULPHONATED DYE• 1863 ANILINE BLACK, NICHOLSON• 1880 IN SITU AZOIC COLOUR FORMATION, READ
HOLLIDAY• 1884 FIRST DIRECT DYE, CONGO RED, BOTTIGER• 1893 FIRST SULPHUR DYE• 1897 SYNTHETIC INDIGO• 1890 METAL COMPLEX DYE• 1901 VAT DYE• 1922 DISPERSE DYE• 1956 REACTIVE DYE
NATURAL DYES BEFORE 1856 ABOUT 100SYNTHETIC DYES TODAY 2000-3000
NOMENCLATURE OF DYES• SYNTHETIC DYES KNOWN BY THEIR TRADE NAMES
• USUALLY INDICATE THE TRADE NAME OF COMPANY, SHADE OBTAINED, HUE OR TONE OF THE SHADE e.g.
CHLORAZOL BROWN R (DIRECT DYE)
INDANTHRENE BLUE 2R (VAT DYE)
• CHLORAZOL TRADE NAME OF ICI
• BROWN SHADE
• R REDDISH HUE OF BROWN
• FOR HUE LETTERS LIKE B, R, Y, OR BB, RR OR 2B, 3R, 4R ETC ARE USED
• SOMETIMES OTHER LETTERS INDICATES SUB CLASS WITHIN THE MAIN CLASS e.g.
• PROCION RED M5B (COLD BRAND REACTIVE DYE)
• PROCION RED H5B (HOT BRAND REACTIVE DYE)
• COLOUR INDEX DOCUMENTATION OF ALL DYES
JOINT PUBLICATION OF SOCIETY OF DYERS AND COLOURISTS (SDC), ENGLAND AND AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLOURISTS (AATCC) , USA
• INFORMATION ON TRADE NAMES, CHEMICAL STRUCTIRE, PROPERTDIES etc.
• EACH DYE IS IDENTIFIED BY CI NUMBER (COLOIUR INDEX NUMBER)
FIBRE FORM
• FIBRE • YARN • FABRIC
FABRIC FORM• WOVEN• KNITTED• NON-WOVEN
DYEING METHODS
BATCHWISE OR EXHAUST DYEING• FIBRE• YARN • FABRIC
SEMI-CONTINUOUS DYEING• FABRIC
CONTINUOUS DYEING• FABRIC• YARN IN WARP SHEET FORM (INDIGO DYEING FOR DENIM)
EXHAUST DYEING
MATERIAL TO LIQUOR RATIO (M:L RATIO)• VOLUME OF WATER TAKEN IN RELATION TO WEIGHT OF
MATERIAL (FIBRE, YARN OR FABRIC)e.g. M:L :: 1:10 MEANS FOR 1 kg OF TEXTILE MATERIAL 10 LITRES OF WATER TAKEN FOR DYEING
% DYEBATH EXHAUSTION• AMOUNT OF DYE GONE FROM SOLUTION PHASE TO FIBRE
PHASE AT THE END OF DYEING PERIOD EXPRESSED IN TERMS OF %. IT IS A MEASURE OF DYE SUBSTANTIVITY. THE TERM IS MAINLY APPLICABLE TO BATCHWISE DYEING.
• % FIXATION: AMOUNT OF DYE FIXED (INTERACTED) WITH FIBRE AFTER WASHING/SOAPING.
% SHADE• AMOUNT OF DYE TAKEN FOR DYEING ON THE BASIS OF
WEIGHT OF MATERIAL• e.g. 2% SHADE MEANS 2 gm DYE TAKEN FOR DYEING 100 gm
MATERIAL i.e TEXTILE FIBRE, YARN OR FABRIC.
BATCHWISE DYEING• DYEING IN SMALL BATCHES, 100-300 kg FABRIC
FABRIC DYEING EQUIPMENTSDESIGNED ON THREE PRINCIPLES
FABRIC MOVING, DYE LIQUOR STATIONARY• JIGGER (FABRIC IN OPEN WIDTH FORM) • WINCH (FABRIC IN ROPE FORM)
FABRIC STATIONARY, DYE LIQUOR MOVING• BEAM DYEING MACHINE FOR DYEING POLYESTER OR
POLYESTER/COTTON BLENDS (FABRIC IN OPEN WIDTH)
BOTH FABRIC AND DYE LIQUOR MOVINGJET DYEING MACHINE (FABRIC IN ROPE FORM)
CONTINUOUS DYEING
PADDING• SATURATION OF FABRIC BY DYE SOLUTION AND SQUEEZING
THE EXCESS LIQUOR BY PRESSING BETWEEN SQUEEZ ROLLERS
• MACHINE: PADDING MANGLE• TERMS COMMON FOR CONTINUOUS DYEING OF FABRIC.
EXPRESSION• %INCREASE IN WEIGHT OF DRY FABRIC AFTER PADDING e.g.• DRY FABRIC WEIGHT 1kg• FABRIC WEIGHT AFTER PADDING 1.8 kg• INCREASE IN DRY FABRIC WEIGHT 0.8 kg• % INCREASE IN WEIGHT 80%• EXPRESSION 80%• HIGHER THE VALUE OF % EXPRESSION LESS IS LIQUOR