DIY Bed Frame

D I Y B e d F r a m e

Step 1: Read this tutorial thoroughly before embarking on this project. Make sure you understand what all the materials are and for heaven’s sake, always always always measure twice, cut once!

Don’t use power tools you don’t know how to use. Ever. Ask for assistance or get someone with experience to do it.

Step 2: Figure out what size your mattress is. I wouldn’t recommend making this bed frame for a king-sized bed - I don’t know that 4 casters would be sufficient to hold the weight. If you are buying a new one, make sure you actually measure it - don’t assume anything. Write down the measurements here.

Length:Width:

Step 3: Sit down with a calculator and this sheet and figure out your materials. THEN go and buy them. Make sure you have

everything BEFORE you start.

The following pages contain diagrams for the lumber you will need (make sure to pick out your own lumber, so you’re getting the nicest stuff), but you will also require:

1. Fasteners: * Note: numbers depend on size of bed - when in doubt, get more than you think you’ll need✦ 4 x 5” screws (No. 10)✦ 18 x 3” screws (No. 10)✦ 100 x 2 1/2” screws (No. 10)✦ 100 x 1 1/2” screws (No. 10)✦ 20 x “cup” or “finishing” washers sized for

No. 10 screws

2. Casters:✦ 4 x 6” swiveling casters (with brakes), or

other suitable furniture legs (non-marking, so as not to damage flooring)

3. Varnish:✦ One small (quart) can of water-based

acrylic polyurethane✦ An appropriate bristle brush to apply

(consult the paint expert at your local hardware store)

4. Sandpaper (a variety of grit levels)

5. Tools:✦ Pencil✦ Measuring tape✦ Electrical sander or sandpaper holder✦ Power drill with appropriate screwdriver

bit to suit screws✦ Drill bit suitable for pilot holes (refer to

recommended pilot hole size on box of screws)

✦ Circular saw for cutting lumber to size✦ Jigsaw

**Important note: Some mattress manufacturers will not honour their warranties if it is found that the mattress in question was used without an approved boxspring unit. I am not responsible for any financial or physical problems that may arise from the fabrication or use of the following bed frame. Proceed at your own risk.**

Model #: 15010020501Manufacturer: Richelieuwww.richelieu.com

2x10’s (frame)

2x2’s (slat supports)

Note: 2x10’s are not actually 2” x 10” - more like 9 1/4” x 1 1/2”

Note: Lumber comes in a variety of lengths. Minimize waste, and keep the leftover pieces - you can use them later.Sand and varnish these before assembling, following the manufacturer’s specifications.

Note: 2x2’s are 1 1/2” x 1 1/2”

Note: Varnish on these is optional - they will be under the mattress and you won’t see them. However, you should sand them.

- 1 1/2”

1x3’s (slats)

2x4 (intermediate slat support)

Note: 1x3’s are 3/4” x 2 1/2”

Note: The number of slats will depend on the size of bed frame you are making. Some math will be required, on your part, to maximize your $$ and minimize your waste. You’ll be spacing them with 1 1/2” gaps between.

Varnish on these is optional - they will be under the mattress and you won’t see them. However, you should sand them to protect your mattress and linens.

Note: 2x4’s are 1 1/2” x 3 1/2”

1 1/2” x 1 1/2” notch at each end (create,

using a jigsaw)

Step 4:Start by attaching the slat supports to the frame members. Screw through the 2x2 and into the 2x10. Create a pilot hole for each screw (at about 10” intervals) and use the 2 1/2” screws.

Step 5:Start fastening the frame together, using the 3” screws and cup washers.

Step 6:Fasten the intermediate slat support in the middle of the frame, as shown. Screw into it from each end of the frame.

The 5” screw (top screw) should go through the 2x10, through the 2x2, and 2” into the 2x4. The bottom screw is 3” long, and goes through the 2x10 and into the 2x4 only.

Step 7:Fasten the slats to the slat supports, making sure that you drill pilot holes first (or you’ll split the 1x3’s). Use the 1 1/2” screws and place 2 screws per end of each slat.

1/4” gap at each end of every slat

1 1/2” gap between slats

pilot holes

The slat spacing might not be perfect - you may end up with some slats

spaced closer together at one end. That’s fine

(you’re just getting a bit more support there).

Step 8:Flip the whole bed frame over, so you have access to the underbelly. You remember those 2x10 leftovers you got, when you cut the frame members? You can use them to provide a fastening plate for each caster, provided that they are large enough to provide full support for the caster.

Place the wood in the corner of the frame and fasten, using the 2 1/2” screws. Fasten the casters to the blocks, using 1 1/2” screws. Make sure that the casters can swivel freely.

You can trim this portion of the block, to keep things tidy. The triangle should give you plenty of room to fasten the caster.

Alternatively, you can use a piece of 3/4” plywood, trimmed to fit in the corner. Just remember that is half the thickness of the 2x10, so your bed will sit lower. Also, because it’s thinner, it won’t have the same strength. You may want to add a little corner brace to support the diagonal edge.

Enlist the help of a friend and flip the bed frame over (careful, it’s heavy and awkward) and you’re done! You don’t need a boxspring for this bed - the slats support the mattress. Remember what I said at the beginning about warranties, though. And be careful while you’re building this - nobody wants you to get hurt. Always always always follow manufacturers’ instructions and specifications.

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