i ndian Made Foreign Liquor is not a term that promises well. It admits upfront that it is a substitute and probably an in- adequate one given that oxy- moronic Indian-Foreign pairing. Add to that the knowledge that it is made from extra-neutral alcohol dis- tilled from molasses, flavoured and blended to resemble whatever you want, and your expectations will not be high. The exception, of course, is rum, which is made from molasses any- way, and Old Monk has always been justly celebrated as the one really good Indian liquor brand. Is there anything more infuriating than pre- tentious (and greedy) Indian bars that don't stock Old Monk, but keep random international rums? Such places should be named, shamed and spurned till Old Monk is on their menus! Over the years other IMFL has been improving too, thanks to competition from real foreign brands and the grow- ing sophistication of Indian drinking tastes. Some premi- um whiskies are decent (even if, by international standards, their mo- lasses base still make them a kind of rum) and vodkas like Smirnoff are as smooth as you'll get anywhere. I keep hoping that one of the better In- dian wineries will grasp the chal- lenge, which is mostly in terms of getting the licences, to distil real brandy from their wine. Best of all, there are ventures like Amrut Distilleries with their really quite wonderful and authentically made single malt, and now the Goa based Desmondji who can't call their agave spirit tequila for fear of Mexi- cans sending hit squads after them. It is made from the same agave cactus plants though and tastes pret- ty good, as does the orange liqueur they are also making, flavoured with Nagpur oranges, so that all the ingredients for a desi margarita are at hand. But there is one inexplicable gap: why is there no good Indian gin? This is one of the easiest spirits to make - unlike with whisky or tequi- la, the base material doesn't matter. Grain is usual, but molasses will do, since all that's needed is good neu- tral alcohol. This is then flavoured with juniper berries, which can be easily imported (though it should be easy to grow them in the hills) and what are called botanicals, a varied mix of spices and flavourings, many of which, like coriander, cassia and orris root, come from India anyway. The mechanics of this flavouring process can vary, but none of it is rocket science. And gin does not require ageing as whisky and brandy do, so production is faster and cheaper. Gin is also the one spirit with such an intimate connection to India that when Michel Roux, the man behind the creation of the Absolut vodka brand, decided to launch a premium gin that would do for the category what Absolut did for vodka, the name cho- sen was Bombay Sap- phire, and an image of Queen Victoria, Empress of India was prominently displayed on the packaging. Roux and his partners were tapping into the exotic imagery of the Raj, where memoirs of the British in India al- ways have them administering their empire with the help of a constant stream of Pink Gins. This concoction got its name from the way in which the colourless gin was delicately tinted by a few dashes of Angostura bitters. (The British in Malaysia differentiated themselves by calling this a Gin Pahit, from the Malay word for bitter). When Jere- my Tait, a young British man, was sent to work for the HongKong & Shanghai Bank in Asia in the early 1950s, and landed up in Colombo he met an old friend of his father at the Colombo Club who offered him man- go juice. 'I replied, "I think I'd prefer a pink gin." Captain Harper's response was immediate: "I don't know what else your father taught you, but he certainly steered you in the right direction."' Tait's entertaining memoir, The Obedient Banker, proceeds to de- scribe a career across that Asia that seemed to be spent staggering from one pink gin to another. In Japan he teaches a geisha how to mix one. In Singapore, in the days before Lee Kuan Yew made it the antiseptic place it is now, he sips gin slings watching the transvestites on Bugis Street. And on one memo- rable occasion in Juhu in Bom- bay he and the other bachelors throw a party for all the mar- ried couples of the bank where the main refreshment is coconuts filled with gin and plum brandy. The couples are so overcome by this that many have to request retiring rooms to sleep it off. "We thought no more about it until almost a year later when several of the married couples reciprocated by inviting us to Chris- tening parties." In this, as with all the many British alcoholic memories of India, gin features so large for a fairly basic reason - it was a cheap and easy way to get drunk. Whisky was more ex- pensive, rum was seen as a drink for the army and navy, while vodka was still unusual outside Russia. Gin's citrusy, spicy notes also had the ad- vantage of mixing well with other drinks and juices, so it was an ideal way to take in a lot of liquid in a cli- mate where one lost it fast. It was also seen as an acceptable drink for ladies, perhaps because its lack of colour made it seem (deceptively) lighter. Most of all, the British dis- covered it made a brilliant marriage with tonic water, the bittersweet concoction that was originally de- vised as an easy way to take malaria fighting quinine by mixing it with sugar and soda. Gin and tonic had a vague connotation of health, which certainly helped justify knocking it down in quantity. Yet this popularity became the problem. Throughout the history of gin we see alternations between pe- riods of high consumption, followed by equally strong reactions against it. Most drinks go in and out of fash- ion, but only gin seems to do it in such extreme ways. After the 1960s, when expatriates like Tait became scarce in India, a reaction against gin set in. The Indians who still drank it were derided, as Sagari- ka Ghose did in her novel The Gin Drinkers, as overly West- ernised and alienated in their own country: "Gin with soda. Straight or on the rocks. Or with bitter lemon. Gin at the Gymkhana. Gin on the ve- randah. Gin at the club with cocktails at six o' clock. Gin was liq- uid colonialism." Depictions like these, combined with the emergence of vodka as a stylish, less historically loaded, clear spirit, seem to have lead to gin's current sorry status. With few con- sumers, Indian manufacturers did- n't bother investing in upgrading from the really raw tasting, crudely flavoured versions that they keep just to round out their portfolio. Yet a gin revolution is taking place abroad and it is time India caught up with it. We'll look at it in the second part of this column. [email protected] ———✱ Dibeyendu Ganguly ✱——— r omain Wacziarg was all of four months old when he arrived in India, where his father was posted as a commercial attaché at the French consulate in Mumbai. He grew up in the city till he was sent off to France for schooling at the age of six. He never returned to live in India but the connection has remained strong. His father, Francis Wacziarg, has settled in India, quitting the French diplomatic services to join Banque Na- tionale de Paris (BNP) in New Delhi and then start- ing the Neemrana chain of hotels. Romain himself moved to the USA to do a Ph.D. in Economics at Har- vard University in 1992 and is now a professor at the Anderson School of Management, UCLA, where he teaches 'The Business Environment in India,' a course that brings him to the country with a new batch of students every year. "My academic inter- ests are definitely related to my upbringing in India. The question that motivates my scholarship is to un- derstand how we can get countries to develop faster and in a way, that is inclusive," he says. In 1998, when he taught at Stanford University, Wacziarg, in collaboration with Enrico Spolaore of Tufts University, began pursuing a line of enquiry that has always intrigued economists: What explains the vast di?erences in income per capita that are ob- served across countries? Why are these di?erences so persistent over time? India and China may have been richer than Europe when the world was agrarian in the year 1000, says Wacziarg, but things changed de- cisively after the Industrial Revolution. "Countries that were ethnically and culturally closer to England, the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, tended to adopt the means of production of an industrial soci- ety sooner than others. Ultimately, most countries started to industrialise, but when they did so depend- ed on their cultural distance to Northwestern Eu- rope. This was true within Europe as well," he says. Wacziarg is designated an 'Overseas Citizen of In- dia,' which gives him a certain latitude. For example, he can delve into sensitive issues on the relationship between India's culture and its low per capita income, without raising too many hackles. But then, he does- n't take any qualitative calls on Indian culture in his re- search paper. Unlike the research done by Harvard guru Jared Diamond, whose Pulitzer prize winning work Guns, Germs, and Steel: The Fates of Human Societies also linked economic dominance to geogra- phy, Wacziarg's research is purely quantitative. Correlating data on a variety of measures of cul- tural differences-language, religion, ethnicity-with global per capita incomes in 1500, 1700, 1820, 1870, 1913 and 1960- Wacziarg seeks to establish that dif- ferences in human characteristics transmitted across generations can affect income differences by creating barriers to the diffusion of innovations, even when they have no direct effect on productivity. "The pat- tern holds not only for current worldwide data but also for estimates of income per capita and genetic distance since 1500," he says. The findings are not counter-intuitive but they do paint a rather dismal picture. It's all very well to know that genetic distance (which is a measurable quantity whose basic unit of analysis is the 'allele') from the UK and US explains differences in per capi- ta income, but what can we do about it? Wacziarg be- lieves that countries that actively seek to bring down barriers to diffusion of innovations, also re- duce the co-efficient that relates culture and per capita income. Japan, for one, has long been a happy exception to Wacziarg's rule and China and India have been surging ahead in recent times by embrac- ing globalization. "These things are not insur- mountable. Significant reductions in income dis- parities could be obtained by encouraging policies that reduce barriers, including efforts to translate and adapt technological as well as institutional in- novations into different traditions and to foster cross-cultural exchanges," he says. Wacziarg likes to start his course at Anderson by asking his students to estimate how long it would take India to catch up with Ameri- ca's per capita income given their current average rates of GDP growth (3% for US, 7% for India) and population growth (1% for US, 2% for India). The answer: 90 years. Given that the income differential is currently of around 13.4 times, India's per capita would have to double at least three times. China, on the other hand, will probably catch up with the USA in 40 years, given its lower population growth of 1%. "The US is always a moving target," says Wacziarg. "If it manages to pull off a series of innovations that re- vives its growth rate, the differential will increase." How does Wacziarg Senior view all this, sitting in Neemrana? "To my Dad, everything that's happen- ing in India seems great," says the younger Wacziarg. "But for the poor, it's a different story. Poverty has reduced in India but inequalities have increased. The only silver lining to the cloud is glob- alization. If that proceeds apace, the story ends on a positive note." [email protected] CMYK Regn. No. MAHENG/2002/6295 Volume 12 Issue No. 6 “Published for the proprietors, Bennett Coleman & Co. Ltd. by Mr. R. Krishnamurthy at The Times Of India Building, Dr. D.N.Road, Mumbai 400001 Tel. (022) 6635 3535, 2273 3535, Fax-(022) 2273 1144 and printed by him at The Times of India Suburban Press, Akurli Road, Western Express Highway, Kandivli (E), Mumbai 400101. Tel No: (022) 28872324, 28872930, Fax No (022) 28874230 and Editor: Mr. Vinod Mahanta, (Responsible for the selection of news under PRB Act).© All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without the written permission of the Publisher is prohibited.” FEBRUARY 8, 2013 THE ECONOMIC TIMES THINKSTOCK Is a country's per capita income determined by its culture? Romain Wacziarg of UCLA investigates Far-out destination: Sailing in the Marina off Marseilles with hundred other sailboats, speed- boats and yachts. Indian Surprise: Travelling through Amar Kantak forest in Madhya Pradesh lit up with fireflies on a winter night. Bon Vivant mo- ment: Dinner at ’12 Chairs’ restaurant in Shanghai with per- sonal attention from Chef David Laris, Un- forgettable! Outdoors Activity: Off-roading in Aravali off Gurgaon in an Audi SUV Emptied your pockets on: Miele appliances and a German Modular Kitchen at Home Panoramic Views: Flying across the Alps from Marseilles to Frankfurt Best Drive: Gutersloh to Frankfurt Airport in Germany through A5 motorway (Auto Bahn). We covered 345 kilometres in a little over 2 hours Gourmet Delights: Generous helpings of Italian food at Olive Qutub coupled with personal attention by Chef Saby (Sabyasachi Gorai). Risottos, Pastas, Lasagnes, Piz- zas, Tiramisu, it was difficult to figure out where to end Gourmet gaffes: Despite being a vegetarian having three chicken sandwiches unknowingly and not realizing till a colleague pointed it out Street food surprise: Authentic Samosas & Gulab Jamun at Harrods in London Best bar: Patiala peg at the Imperial, Delhi Bazaar Bargains: Bought a Mont Blanc Pen at 35% discount from the Duty free shop in Munich, Germany Goofy traveller moment: Stranded in Italy for seven days because of the volcanic eruption in Iceland and the subsequent chaos Traveller Tips: Medicines with prescription, iPad and Headphones, Haldiram’s ready to eat packets and an extra mobile phone Interesting Stranger: Met an interesting senior gentleman at a social get together, kept speaking to him on various topics for a long time only to found out later that he was one of the top guys from Tata Sons Wanderlust Etiquette Etiquette While traveling overseas for business, my local colleagues ‘split the cheque’ in a restaurant. Please advise. In India, splitting the check when dining out with a colleague is a new concept. However, in many parts of the world ‘going Dutch’ is the norm. Splitting the check when dining with colleagues is directly linked to how a culture perceives business relationships. Monochronic cultures being pro-transactional, businesspersons don’t mix their professional and personal relation- ships. In these cultures you are not expected to pay for your colleagues when dining out e.g. North Europe, USA, Canada and Australia. On the other hand, Polychronic cultures being pro- partnership, they view business relationships as life-long. In these cultures, business meals are seen as occasions to build better bonds. Usual- ly, the senior-most person pays for the group and ‘going Dutch’ is considered rude, even taboo e.g. Indian sub-continent, Italy, Greece, Middle-East, China and Latin America. When dining out with colleagues, the common ways to split the cheque are: Equal share: Post-tax and after adding the tip, the bill amount is equally divided amongst the diners. Informal ‘fair share’: If you have expensive tastes, you are expected to pay extra over and above the ‘equal share’ e.g. you enjoyed a cou- ple of cocktails while your fellow diners were teetotalers or you ordered a lobster while the others ate cheaper vegetarian / chicken dishes. Individual bills: In some cultures, diners ask the server for individual bills when sitting down for a meal together. Here, each person set- tles his own cheque, including the tip. Tip: Ask your local colleague about the accepted practice in his/her culture - don’t assume that as a visitor, your host is expected to pay for you. SHITAL KAKKAR MEHRA is the author of Business Etiquette: A Guide For The Indian Professional THE DUTCH FACTOR Dhananjay Chaturvedi MD, Miele India Dhananjay Chaturvedi with family Diffusion of Innovations Liquid Colonialism Liquid Colonialism Vikram Doctor on the wicked joys of Gin *CDMM80213//04/K/1* *CDMM80213//04/K/1* CDMM80213/1R1/04/K/1 *CDMM80213//04/Y/1* *CDMM80213//04/Y/1* CDMM80213/1R1/04/Y/1 *CDMM80213//04/M/1* *CDMM80213//04/M/1* CDMM80213/1R1/04/M/1 *CDMM80213//04/C/1* *CDMM80213//04/C/1* CDMM80213/1R1/04/C/1