Top Banner
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1 DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS R.B.Chavan Dept. of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
74
Welcome message from author
This document is posted to help you gain knowledge. Please leave a comment to let me know what you think about it! Share it to your friends and learn new things together.
Transcript
Page 1: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1

DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY

FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS

R.B.ChavanDept. of Textile Technology,

Indian Institute of Technology,Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016

Page 2: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 2

PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY

CRADLE TO GRAVE WOMB TO TOMB NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,

PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO

LABLES GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS

EVEN AT HIGH COST

Page 3: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 3

COTTON DOMINATES

READILY AVAILABLE AFFORDABLE PRICE HYDROPHILIC COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL

CLIMATE BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY

Page 4: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 4

CONVENTIONAL COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO

FRIENDLY USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND

VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.

PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS

WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

WATER POLLUTION

Page 5: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 5

COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)

RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION

COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON

ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

Page 6: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 6

NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR

COLOURS NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE LOW STAPLE LENGTH INFERIOR STRENGTH POOR SPINABILITY REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON

CULTIVATION NOT TO BE DYED ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING

DYEING

Page 7: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 7

FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO

MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE

PRODUCT

VALUE ADDITION

IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES

ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

Page 8: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 8

IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON EASY CARE/DURABLE

PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING SOFTENING ENZYME/BIO FINISHING WATER PROOF BREATHABLE

FINISHING SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE

FINISHES ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES UV PROTECTION EMERGING FINISHES

Page 9: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 9

EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING

CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS

AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE

TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY LOSS IN STRENGTH

Page 10: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 10

FABRIC FINISHING PRE CURE POST CURE

GARMENT FINSIHING DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES

PROCESS ROUTE

Page 11: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 11

PRE CURE PROCESS

PAD DRY CURE

·   MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR FABRIC FINISHING

·   UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF CHEMICALS

·   BETTER PROCESS CONTROL

· CARRIED OUT AT MILL LEVEL

 

Page 12: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 12

POST CURE PROCESS

PAD DRY AT MILL LEVEL• SENSITIZED FABRIC• TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT• GARMENT MAKING

• PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT

DESIRED PLACES• CURE

Page 13: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 13

STEPS

PAD (60-70% PICK UP)

DRY AT 70oC, 8-10% MOISTURE

CONTENT

SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY)

GARMENT MAKING

GARMENT PRESSING

GARMENT CURING 150-160 oC

Page 14: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 14

PRECAUTIONS

PRE FINISHING STAGE    GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)

   FREE FROM SIZE

   HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH

  SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER

50% LOSS ON FINISHING

   USE MERCERIZED COTTON

   ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS

   FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING

Page 15: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 15

PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID PRE MATURED CROSS

LINKING• CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED

•  FABRIC, SHIPMENT BY AIR

• MANY STORE UNDER

REFRIGERATION

• SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE

THAN 3 MONTHS

Page 16: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 16

FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM

MERITS PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT

DESIRED PLACES NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS

LINKING GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING

MINIMIZED

Page 17: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 17

POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED

CAREFUL SELECTION OF SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM OFFERS

ONLY ONE CHANCE ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE

RECTIFIED RESIN STRIPPING AND

REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE DAMAGE

Page 18: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 18

GARMENT FINISHING METHODS

DIP PROCESS

TUMBLE PROCESS

Page 19: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 19

DIP PROCESS DIP GARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT,

M:L :: 1:5) WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED ROTATE FOR 20 min. HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP) TUMBLE DRY AT 70oc, MOISTURE CONTENT

10-12% TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT

DESIRED PLACES CURE AT 150 oc – 160 oc for 8-10 min EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED

Page 20: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 20

TUMBLE METHOD PLACE GARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING

MACHINE DRUM SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY

APPLICATION ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING

OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR

ADDITIONAL TIME HYDROEXTRACT OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS

Page 21: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 21

IMPORTANT FEATURESM:L:: 1:0.85 –1:1TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30

rpmTUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD

NOT EXCEED 70 ocMOISTURE RETENTION AFTER

DRYING 10-12%, IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRYLOAD SIZE 50 Kg.

Page 22: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 22

CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENT

LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER CATALYST MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID

WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION IMPART HAND IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE

AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE IMPART SOFT HAND IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY

SILICONE ELASTOMER IMPART SPRINGINESS IMPROVE STRENGTH

ACRYLATES IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE

Page 23: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 23

TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE

CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l

MgCl2 10-25 g/l

CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l

SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l

WETTING AGENT 1 g/l

pH 4-4.5

Page 24: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 24

FINISHING STAGE

AFTER DRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE CONTENT SHOULD

NOT BE < 10%.

LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH

GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH

SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE AVOIDED,

LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN

STRENGTH

1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS

FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE

UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10%

EXTRA RESIN

Page 25: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 25

STONE WASH AND OTHER FINISHES

ARE GIVEN BEFORE WRINKLE FREE

FINISH

USE LOWER (I50oc) FOR WHITE GARMENTS

TO AVOID YELLOWING

POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES,

SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS

SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH

CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT

GARMENT STAGE

Page 26: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 26

QUALITY CONTROL

PHYSICAL TESTS DRY AND WET CRA

SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING

%RESIN ADD-ON

TENSILE STRENGTH

ABRASION RESISTANCE

DIMENSIONAL STBILITY

 

Page 27: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 27

CHEMICAL TESTCuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE

HYDROXIDE)

PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED

GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)

·      PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE

·      PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION

      PUT COVER SLIDE

·     OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE

·     RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE

·  RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS

RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS

Page 28: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 28

SWELLING RATING MEANING NONE 5 FULLYCROSS

LINKED SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS

LINKED MODERATE 3 MODERATE

CROSS LINKED MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS

LINKED HEAVY HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES

Page 29: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 29

ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED

(DMeDHEU) EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING DRYING AND CURING, GARMENT STORAGE AND USE WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH ENVIRONMENT KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND

DERMATITIS EFFECTS ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm

Page 30: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 30

 CONTROL OF FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM

DMDHEU 

WASH AFTER FINISH

ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE

ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA

MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO

PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE

ETHERIFIED PRODUCT

ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE

EXPENSIVE AND LESS EFFECTIVE

Page 31: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 31

POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs) 

WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE

OF BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF

COTTON

CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE

GOOD CRA

GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION

DURABLE TO WASHING

EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED

COMMERCIALIZATION 

Page 32: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 32

CITRIC ACID

LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID

LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE

COMPARED TO BTCA

YELLOWING ON CURING

Page 33: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 33

MECHANISM OF PCA CROSS LINKING DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS

STEP 1 DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS

STEP 2 ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI METAL SALTS

OF PHOSPHORUS SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH2PO 2.H2O) MOST

SATISFACORY CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE FORMATION

AND CROSS LINKING

Page 34: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 34

OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS

PCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE

GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285

DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7

VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE

WASHING

 ORDER OF DURABILITY -

  BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID

Page 35: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 35

DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY

   MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE

    EXPENSIVE

    REDUCING AGENT

    AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER

  INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE

RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE

SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE

Page 36: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 36

COST OF BTCA HIGH COST OF BTCA

  WAYS TO REDUCE COST SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE

PROCESS USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT

PURIFICATION FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED BY

MIXING OTHER PCAs TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE

FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE FABRIC STRENGTH

 

Page 37: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 37

YELLOWING EFFECT OF CA

UNDER CURING CONDITIONS

PRODUCTS FORMED ARE

TRANS ACONITIC ACID, ITACONIC

ACID, CITRACONIC ACID

YELLOW IN COLOUR

Page 38: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 38

MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWING INCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS

HYDROXYETHYL GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR

PEG

TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS

YELLOWING

  OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA

  PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO

UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING

FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR

YELLOWING PREVENTED

Page 39: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 39

POOR WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE

STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE DURING ALKALINE WASH

WAY OUT MODIFY OH IN CA

INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN

FINISH BATH

-COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA

 BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA

 ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH

Page 40: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 40

SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH HIGH COST

NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST

YELLOWING

THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION

SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED

IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL

DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS

RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE

COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER

POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL

ALCOHOL

FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU

Page 41: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 41

SOFTENERSSILICONE SOFTENERS

 CLASSIFICATION

 NON REACTIVE

  REACTIVE

  ORGANO FUNCTIONAL NON REACTIVE

BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS)

SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO

ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS

Page 42: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 42

SILICONE SOFTENERSREACTIVE SILICONES     

PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR

SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP

BETTER DURABILITY

  ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE GROUPS

INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY etc)

IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON FIBRE

VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT) 

Page 43: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 43

ECO FRIENDLINESS PDMS PRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY

DISPERSED DROPLETS ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME

MINOR PART OF SLUDGE 

IF SLUDGE IS INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA,

WATER AND CO2 AS LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO

DEGRADATION SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR

WEIGHT PRODUCTS DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO

BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO NATURAL SILICA.

Page 44: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 44

EFFECTS PDMS IS ECOLOGYCALLY INERT NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC

BACTERIA DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS

DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED

GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND

ANIMAL LIFE NO SIGNIFICANT BOD NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS

Page 45: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 45

WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH

  IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE  LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER  WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS  SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000  SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR  SPORTS WEAR  SKI WEAR  TRACK SUITS  RAIN WEAR  MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING

Page 46: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 46

CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS

  HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS

   LAMINATED FABRICS

   COATED FABRICS

Page 47: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 47

HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE

SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS WIND PROOF  EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY  NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER

FINISHING  USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING WHERE

WIND PROOFING AND WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT

USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER

Page 48: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 48

LAMINATED FABRICS ROTORY SCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF FABRIC

WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE

BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE THROUGH BIAXIAL STRETCHING MECHANICAL FIBRILATION  CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE

INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX

TWO AND THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC

Page 49: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 49

COATED FABRICS

IMPORTANT TECHNIQUES

      SOLVENT EXCHANGE

      PHASE SEPARATION

 

Page 50: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 50

SOLVENT EXCHANGE DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE

SOLVENT

THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC

 DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS

STRUCTURE BY PASSAGE THROUGH

AQUEOUS POLYMER COAGULATION BATH

  EXAMPLE POLYMER: POLYURETHANE

SOLVENT: DMF

 

Page 51: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 51

PHASE SEPARATIONDISSOLUTION OF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE OF

SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON SOLVENT MIXTURE       COAT THE POLYMER, DRY       EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING       NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT       PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS

LAYER 

UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS)       POLY URETHANE COATING       SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE       NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG       HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING       REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.

Page 52: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 52

BIO FINISHING

APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR

FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND

GARMENTS

CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S

PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH)

ON INDIGO DYED DENIM

PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING

Page 53: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 53

MECHANISM   CELLULASE CONSISTS OF THREE ENZYMES

WORKING TOGETHER SYNERGISTICALLY

1. ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE : HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY

2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE

3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE

Page 54: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 54

ENZYME TYPES

1.  ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)

2.  NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)

3.  ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)

 

TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC

 

Page 55: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 55

BIO POLISHING• TREATMENT WITH CELLULASE ENZYM

• PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE

• WEIGHT LOSS 3-5%

• STRENGTH LOSS 2-7%

• MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC HYDROLYSIS

• MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED GARMENTS

• ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE

• AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH HANDLE

• NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR BIOSTONING.

Page 56: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 56

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH

CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS

PATHOGENIC BACTERIA ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA FUNGI GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE

DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B

HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION

NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT

Page 57: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 57

SURGICAL APPARELS A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE

BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD

THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE

GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES

ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL

APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL

FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND

NURSE

Page 58: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 58

UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY CLOTHING

ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE

USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED

DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION

SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC

FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE

PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED

THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING

Page 59: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 59

REQUIREMENTS OF ANTI BACTERIAL FINISH

DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE LAUNDERING AND DRY

CLEANING

NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER

ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER

PROPERTIES (BREATHABILITY)

COMPATIBILITY WITH AUXILIARIES AND OTHER

FINISHING CHEMICALS

READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE

SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF

DYES

Page 60: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 60

PROTECTION MECHANISM CONTROLLED RELEASE

THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA

REGENERATION MODEL

SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED FABRIC TO AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA. e.g.

ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING LAUNDERING

  EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT

Page 61: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 61

PROTECTION MECHANISM BARRIER OR BLOCKING

INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR

COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO

TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS

THROUGH FABRIC

FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE DIRECT

SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST

BACTERIAL GROWTH

Page 62: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 62

FINISHING TECHNIQUES PAD-DRY-CURE

APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG

WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS

VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS

CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID

POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE)

PHMB

METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES

Page 63: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 63

FINISHING TECHNIQUES

GRAFTING      

GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE)

ONTO CELLULOSE

IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION

MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART

ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY

USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING

 

Page 64: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 64

FINISHING TECHNIQUES

BARRIER COATING COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI

METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL

OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE)

ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER

THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE

GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA

STABLE TO 40 WASHES

Page 65: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 65

SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES

IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND

SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE

IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED

GARMENTS

MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES

ARE BASED ON

MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC

Page 66: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 66

SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES

THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING

-COOH GROUPS

OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS

FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS

MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH

IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE DRAMATICALLY

FLURO CHEMICALS

PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER

REPELLENCY

Page 67: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 67

EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES

 TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION       PADDING       LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE       LICK ROLL       POROUS BOWL       VACUUM EXTRACTION       FOAM APPLICTION

ALTERNATE METHODS       LAMINATION       COATING

Page 68: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 68

EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES

 NEXTEC PROCESS·      PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA

·      NOVEL PROCESS

·      INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER

·      CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT

AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE

·      ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART

·      WRINKLE RESISTANCE,

·      SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,

·      UV PROTECTION

·      FLAME RESISTANCE

·      MICROBIAL BARRIER

Page 69: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 69

NEXTEC PROCESS

THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION PROCESS ACHIEVED USING

SILICONE BASED POLYMERS POLYURETHANE POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS

THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY

OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI

FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS

AND GARMENTS 

Page 70: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 70

PLASMA TREATMENT

TREATMENT WITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE·      HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC ·      DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED

THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE·      WETTABILITY·      ADHESION·      CROSS LINKING·      BIO COMPATIBILITY·      CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS

 

Page 71: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 71

MERITS

·      LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION

·      DRY TREATMENT

·      ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY

·      OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN

FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES FOR COTTON

 

Page 72: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 72

USE OF BIO TECHNOLOGY

BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC

MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY

USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES WITH

IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE

INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH

FINSHING

Page 73: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 73

UV PROTECTION·    INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON

EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV

RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF

OZONE LAYER

·    UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED

BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR

GARMENTS WITH SELECTED

UV ABSORBERS

Page 74: Development in finishing power point

Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 74

CONCLUSIONS· DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

·      IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON

·     GIVE VALUE ADDITION

·     MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

·     IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR

IMPARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.