Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1 DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS R.B.Chavan Dept. of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Jun 08, 2015
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 1
DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY
FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS
R.B.ChavanDept. of Textile Technology,
Indian Institute of Technology,Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 2
PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY
CRADLE TO GRAVE WOMB TO TOMB NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,
PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY ECO
LABLES GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO PRODUCTS
EVEN AT HIGH COST
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 3
COTTON DOMINATES
READILY AVAILABLE AFFORDABLE PRICE HYDROPHILIC COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL
CLIMATE BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 4
CONVENTIONAL COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO
FRIENDLY USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES AND
VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.
PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS
WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
WATER POLLUTION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 5
COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)
RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION
COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON
ECO FRIENDLY COTTON
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 6
NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR
COLOURS NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE LOW STAPLE LENGTH INFERIOR STRENGTH POOR SPINABILITY REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON
CULTIVATION NOT TO BE DYED ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING
DYEING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 7
FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO
MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE
PRODUCT
VALUE ADDITION
IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES
ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 8
IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON EASY CARE/DURABLE
PRESS/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING SOFTENING ENZYME/BIO FINISHING WATER PROOF BREATHABLE
FINISHING SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE
FINISHES ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES UV PROTECTION EMERGING FINISHES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 9
EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING
CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS
AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE
TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY LOSS IN STRENGTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 10
FABRIC FINISHING PRE CURE POST CURE
GARMENT FINSIHING DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES
PROCESS ROUTE
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PRE CURE PROCESS
PAD DRY CURE
· MOST POPULAR PROCESS FOR FABRIC FINISHING
· UNIFORM DISTRUBUTION OF CHEMICALS
· BETTER PROCESS CONTROL
· CARRIED OUT AT MILL LEVEL
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POST CURE PROCESS
PAD DRY AT MILL LEVEL• SENSITIZED FABRIC• TRANSPORT TO GARMENT UNIT• GARMENT MAKING
• PRESSING TO SET CREASES AT
DESIRED PLACES• CURE
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STEPS
PAD (60-70% PICK UP)
DRY AT 70oC, 8-10% MOISTURE
CONTENT
SANFORIZE (NO MOISTURE SPRAY)
GARMENT MAKING
GARMENT PRESSING
GARMENT CURING 150-160 oC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 14
PRECAUTIONS
PRE FINISHING STAGE GOOD ABSORBANCY (<3sec)
FREE FROM SIZE
HIGH TENSILE AND TEAR STRENGTH
SUFFICIENT TO REMAIN ACCEPTABLE EVEN AFTER
50% LOSS ON FINISHING
USE MERCERIZED COTTON
ADEQUATE DYE FASTNESS
FREE FROM SOFTENER BEFORE FINISHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 15
PRECAUTIONS TO AVOID PRE MATURED CROSS
LINKING• CAREFUL STORAGE OF SENSITIZED
• FABRIC, SHIPMENT BY AIR
• MANY STORE UNDER
REFRIGERATION
• SHOULD NOT BE STORED MORE
THAN 3 MONTHS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 16
FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM
MERITS PERMANENT CREASE SETING AT
DESIRED PLACES NO RISK OF PRE MATURED CROSS
LINKING GARMENT SEAM PUCKERING
MINIMIZED
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POINTS TO BE CONSIDERED
CAREFUL SELECTION OF SEWING THREAD, BUTTON, ZIPS STABLE TO BATH CHEMICALS, HEAT FINISHING IN GARMENT FORM OFFERS
ONLY ONE CHANCE ANY THING WRONG CAN NOT BE
RECTIFIED RESIN STRIPPING AND
REPROCESSING CAUSES MORE DAMAGE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 18
GARMENT FINISHING METHODS
DIP PROCESS
TUMBLE PROCESS
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DIP PROCESS DIP GARMENT IN FINISH BATH (INSIDE OUT,
M:L :: 1:5) WASHING MACHINE MAY BE USED ROTATE FOR 20 min. HYDROEXTRACT (70-80% PICK UP) TUMBLE DRY AT 70oc, MOISTURE CONTENT
10-12% TURN THE GARMENT RIGHT SIDE OUT IRO/STEAM PRESS TO SET CREASES AT
DESIRED PLACES CURE AT 150 oc – 160 oc for 8-10 min EXTRACTED SOLUTION MAY BE REUSED
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TUMBLE METHOD PLACE GARMENTS (INSIDE OUT) IN WASHING
MACHINE DRUM SATURATE WITH FINISH BATH BY SPRAY
APPLICATION ROTATE DRUM FOR 20 min TAKE CARE TO AVOID EXCESSIVE DRIPPING
OF CHEMICALS FROM GARMENT IF DRY SPOT, RESATURATE, TUMBLE FOR
ADDITIONAL TIME HYDROEXTRACT OTHER STEPS SAME AS EARLIER PROCESS
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IMPORTANT FEATURESM:L:: 1:0.85 –1:1TUMBLE ROTATION SPEED 28-30
rpmTUMBLE DRYING TEMP. SHOULD
NOT EXCEED 70 ocMOISTURE RETENTION AFTER
DRYING 10-12%, IF LESS RESATURATE AND DRYLOAD SIZE 50 Kg.
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CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENT
LOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEU EXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER CATALYST MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID
WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION IMPART HAND IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE
AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE IMPART SOFT HAND IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY
SILICONE ELASTOMER IMPART SPRINGINESS IMPROVE STRENGTH
ACRYLATES IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 23
TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE
CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l
MgCl2 10-25 g/l
CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l
SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l
WETTING AGENT 1 g/l
pH 4-4.5
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 24
FINISHING STAGE
AFTER DRYING RESIDUAL MOISTURE CONTENT SHOULD
NOT BE < 10%.
LOW MOISTURE GIVES HIGH DRY CRA, LOSS IN STRENGTH
GOOD WET CRA WHEN MOISTURE AFTER DRYING IS HIGH
SULPHUR DYED GARMENT SHOULD BE AVOIDED,
LIBERATE ACID, PREMATURE RESIN CURING, LOSS IN
STRENGTH
1-2% UREA ADDITION IN FINISH BATH CONTROLS
FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE
UREA REDUCES EFFICIENCY OF FINISH BATH, TAKE 10%
EXTRA RESIN
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 25
STONE WASH AND OTHER FINISHES
ARE GIVEN BEFORE WRINKLE FREE
FINISH
USE LOWER (I50oc) FOR WHITE GARMENTS
TO AVOID YELLOWING
POCKETS,BELT,LOOPS,LABLES,
SEWINGTHREAD,BUTTONS,ZIPPERS
SHOULD BE RESISTANT TO FINISH BATH
CHEMICALS AND CURING HEAT
GARMENT STAGE
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QUALITY CONTROL
PHYSICAL TESTS DRY AND WET CRA
SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING
%RESIN ADD-ON
TENSILE STRENGTH
ABRASION RESISTANCE
DIMENSIONAL STBILITY
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CHEMICAL TESTCuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE
HYDROXIDE)
PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED
GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)
· PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE
· PUT 1-2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION
PUT COVER SLIDE
· OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE
· RATING 3-4 IS ACEPTABLE
· RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS
RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 28
SWELLING RATING MEANING NONE 5 FULLYCROSS
LINKED SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS
LINKED MODERATE 3 MODERATE
CROSS LINKED MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS
LINKED HEAVY HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 29
ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED
(DMeDHEU) EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING DRYING AND CURING, GARMENT STORAGE AND USE WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH ENVIRONMENT KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND
DERMATITIS EFFECTS ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 30
CONTROL OF FORMALDEHYDE RELEASE FROM
DMDHEU
WASH AFTER FINISH
ADDITION OF FORMALDEHYDE
ACCEPTOR/SCAVENGER LIKE UREA
MODIFICATION OF DMDHEU TO
PRODUCE ZERO FORMALDEHYDE
ETHERIFIED PRODUCT
ETHERIFIED DMDHEU IS MORE
EXPENSIVE AND LESS EFFECTIVE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 31
POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)
WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE
OF BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF
COTTON
CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE
GOOD CRA
GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION
DURABLE TO WASHING
EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED
COMMERCIALIZATION
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 32
CITRIC ACID
LOW PRICED TRICABOXYLIC ACID
LESS EFFECTIVE, LESS DURABLE
COMPARED TO BTCA
YELLOWING ON CURING
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MECHANISM OF PCA CROSS LINKING DMDHEU FORMS ETHER BONDS WITH COTTON PCA FORMS ESTER BONDS ESTERIFICATION IN TWO STEPS
STEP 1 DEHYDRATION OF TWO ADJACENT COOH GROUPS FORMATION OF ANHYDRIDE UNDER CURING CONDITIONS
STEP 2 ESTERIFICATION WITH CELLULOSE REACTION ACCELERATED IN PRESENCE OF ALKALI METAL SALTS
OF PHOSPHORUS SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE MONO HYDRIDE (NaH2PO 2.H2O) MOST
SATISFACORY CATALYST ACCELERATE THE RATE OF ANHYDRIDE FORMATION
AND CROSS LINKING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 34
OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS
PCA OTHER THAN BTCA SUITABLE
GIVE CRA IN THE RANGE OF 285
DP RATING 4.3 - 4.7
VARIATION IN DURABILITY TO ALKALINE
WASHING
ORDER OF DURABILITY -
BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 35
DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY
MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE
EXPENSIVE
REDUCING AGENT
AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER
INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE
RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE
SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES
SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 36
COST OF BTCA HIGH COST OF BTCA
WAYS TO REDUCE COST SOPHISTICATED MANUFACTURE
PROCESS USE BTCA PASTE FORM WITHOUT
PURIFICATION FINISHING COST MAY BE REDUCED BY
MIXING OTHER PCAs TEA MAY BE USED TO REDUCE
FINISHING COST AND IMPROVE FABRIC STRENGTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 37
YELLOWING EFFECT OF CA
UNDER CURING CONDITIONS
PRODUCTS FORMED ARE
TRANS ACONITIC ACID, ITACONIC
ACID, CITRACONIC ACID
YELLOW IN COLOUR
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MINIMIZATION OF YELLOWING INCORPORATE TEA, N,N BIS
HYDROXYETHYL GLYCINE, BORIC ACID OR
PEG
TEA IS MOST EFFECTIVE TO SUPPRESS
YELLOWING
OH IN TEA REACT WITH OH IN CA
PREVENT CA TO DECOMPOSE TO
UNSATURATED ACIDS UNDER CURING
FORMATION OF ACIDS RESPONSIBLE FOR
YELLOWING PREVENTED
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 39
POOR WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH PRESENCE OF OH IN CA REDUCES THE
STABILITY OF ESTER BOND WITH CELLULOSE DURING ALKALINE WASH
WAY OUT MODIFY OH IN CA
INCORPORATE POLY MALEIC ACID (PMA) IN
FINISH BATH
-COOH OF PMA REACTS WITH OH OF CA
BLOCKS OH GROUP IN CA
ENHANCE WASH FASTNESS OF FINISH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 40
SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH HIGH COST
NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST
YELLOWING
THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION
SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED
IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL
DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS
RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE
COMBINATION OF HOMOPOLYMER OF PMA AND TER
POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL
ALCOHOL
FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 41
SOFTENERSSILICONE SOFTENERS
CLASSIFICATION
NON REACTIVE
REACTIVE
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL NON REACTIVE
BASED ON POLY DIMETHYL SILOXANES (PDMS)
SOFTENING EFFECT NOT DURABLE DUE TO
ABSENCE OF REACTIVE GROUPS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 42
SILICONE SOFTENERSREACTIVE SILICONES
PDMS POLYMER MODIFIED WITH SILANE H OR
SILANOL FUNCTIONAL GROUP
BETTER DURABILITY
ORGANO FUNCTIONAL SILLICONES ORGANO FUNCTIONAL REACTIVE GROUPS
INTRODUCED IN PDMS (AMINE, EPOXIDE, CARBOXY etc)
IMPROVE ORIENTATION AND SUBSTANTIVITY ON FIBRE
VERY SOFT FINISH (SUPER SOFT)
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 43
ECO FRIENDLINESS PDMS PRESENT IN EFFLUENT IN THE FORM OF TINY
DISPERSED DROPLETS ATTACH TO SUSPENDED SOLIDS BEING WATER INSOLUBLE AND NON VOLATILE BECOME
MINOR PART OF SLUDGE
IF SLUDGE IS INCINERATED, SILICONE GETS CONVERTED TO SILICA,
WATER AND CO2 AS LAND FILL, INTRODUCE PDMS IN SOIL NATURALLY GETS DEGRADED THOUGH PDMS ARE HIGHLY RESISTANT TO BIO
DEGRADATION SOIL CONTACT BREAK DOWN TO LOW MOLECULAR
WEIGHT PRODUCTS DECOPOSITION PRODUCTS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO
BIOLOGICAL DECOMPOSITION EVENTUALLY TO NATURAL SILICA.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 44
EFFECTS PDMS IS ECOLOGYCALLY INERT NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC
BACTERIA DOES NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS
DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED
GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND
ANIMAL LIFE NO SIGNIFICANT BOD NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 45
WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH
IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000 SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR SPORTS WEAR SKI WEAR TRACK SUITS RAIN WEAR MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 46
CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS
HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS
LAMINATED FABRICS
COATED FABRICS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 47
HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS OBTAINED BY DENSLY WEAVING FINE
SMOOTH MICRO FIBRE YARNS WIND PROOF EXCELLENT WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY NOT WATER RESISTANT EVEN AFTER
FINISHING USED FOR HIGH FASHION SKI CLOTHING WHERE
WIND PROOFING AND WATER VAPOUR PERMEABILITY ARE IMPORTANT
USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 48
LAMINATED FABRICS ROTORY SCREEN OR SPRAY COATING OF FABRIC
WITH BREATHABLE ADHESIVE LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE
BARRIER FILM LIKE PTFE BREATHABLE FILMS ARE MADE THROUGH BIAXIAL STRETCHING MECHANICAL FIBRILATION CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE
INCH WITH A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX
TWO AND THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 49
COATED FABRICS
IMPORTANT TECHNIQUES
SOLVENT EXCHANGE
PHASE SEPARATION
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SOLVENT EXCHANGE DISSOLVE POLYMER IN WATER MISCIBLE
SOLVENT
THIN COATING ON TO FABRIC
DEVELOPMENT OF MICRO POROUS
STRUCTURE BY PASSAGE THROUGH
AQUEOUS POLYMER COAGULATION BATH
EXAMPLE POLYMER: POLYURETHANE
SOLVENT: DMF
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 51
PHASE SEPARATIONDISSOLUTION OF COATING POLYMER IN A MIXTURE OF
SOLVENT AND HIGH BOILING POINT NON SOLVENT MIXTURE COAT THE POLYMER, DRY EVAPORATION OF SOLVENT DURING DRYING NON SOLVENT STILL PRESENT PRECIPITATION OF POLYMER AS MICRO POROUS
LAYER
UCE COAT 2000 (UCB SPECIALITY CHEMICALS) POLY URETHANE COATING SOLVENT: LOW BOILING METHYL ETHYLE KETONE NON SOLVENT: HIGH BOILING PEG HIGHLY MICRO POROUS COATING ON DRYING REMOVAL OF PEG ON SUBSEQUENT WASHING.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 52
BIO FINISHING
APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR
FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND
GARMENTS
CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S
PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE WASH)
ON INDIGO DYED DENIM
PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 53
MECHANISM CELLULASE CONSISTS OF THREE ENZYMES
WORKING TOGETHER SYNERGISTICALLY
1. ENDOGLUCONASES OR ENDO CELLULASE : HYDROLYSE CELLULOSE RANDOMNLY
2. CELLOBIOHYDROLASE OR EXO CELLULASE: ATTACK CHAIN ENDS AND PRODUCE CELLOBUOSE
3. B-(1,4)-GLUCOSIDASE: HYDROLYZE CELLOBIOSE AND SMALL CHAIN OLIGOMERS TO GLUCOSE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 54
ENZYME TYPES
1. ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)
2. NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)
3. ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)
TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 55
BIO POLISHING• TREATMENT WITH CELLULASE ENZYM
• PARTIAL SURFACE HYDROLYSIS OF CELLULOSE
• WEIGHT LOSS 3-5%
• STRENGTH LOSS 2-7%
• MERCERIZATION ENHANCES THE RATE OF ENZYMATIC HYDROLYSIS
• MOST POPULAR FOR BIOSTONING OF INDIGO DYED GARMENTS
• ELIMINATES OR DEVREASES QUANTITY OF PUMICE STONES THAT CAUSE DAMAGE TO MACHINE
• AVOIDS OCCURRENCE OF PUMICE DUST IN ENVIRONMENT AND IN GARMENT CREATING HARSH HANDLE
• NEUTRAL CELLULSES ARE PREFERRED FOR BIOSTONING.
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 56
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH
CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS
PATHOGENIC BACTERIA ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA FUNGI GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON THE
DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS B
HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION
NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 57
SURGICAL APPARELS A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE
BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD
THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD
ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE
GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES
ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL
APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL
FOR THE PROTECTION OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND
NURSE
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 58
UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY CLOTHING
ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE
USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED
DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION
SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC
FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE
PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED
THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 59
REQUIREMENTS OF ANTI BACTERIAL FINISH
DURABILITY TO MULTIPLE LAUNDERING AND DRY
CLEANING
NO TOXIC EFFECT ON WEARER
ACCEPTABLE MOISTURE TRANSFER
PROPERTIES (BREATHABILITY)
COMPATIBILITY WITH AUXILIARIES AND OTHER
FINISHING CHEMICALS
READY AVAILABILITY AT REASONABLE PRICE
SHOULD NOT AFFECT FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF
DYES
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PROTECTION MECHANISM CONTROLLED RELEASE
THE ANTI BACTERIAL AGENT IS RELEASED FROM FINISHED FABRIC AT A RATE SUFFICIENT TO KILL OR INHIBIT THE GROWTH OF BACTERIA
REGENERATION MODEL
SUBJECTING THE CONTAMINATED FABRIC TO AGENCY THAT WOULD DESTROY THE BACTERIA. e.g.
ADDITION OF BLEACHING AGENT DURING LAUNDERING
EXPOSURE TO UV LIGHT
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PROTECTION MECHANISM BARRIER OR BLOCKING
INSERTION OF PHYSICAL BARRIER FILM OR
COATING WHICH IS IMPERVIOUS TO
TRANSMISSION OF MICRO ORGANISMS
THROUGH FABRIC
FILM OR COATING THAT HAVE DIRECT
SURFACE CONTACT ACTIVITY AGAINST
BACTERIAL GROWTH
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 62
FINISHING TECHNIQUES PAD-DRY-CURE
APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG
WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS
VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS
CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID
POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE)
PHMB
METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 63
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
GRAFTING
GRAFTING OF POLY-(2-METHYL-5-VINYL PYRIDINE)
ONTO CELLULOSE
IMMERSION IN AQUEOUS KI SOLUTION
MATERIAL SLOWLY RELEASES IODINE TO IMPART
ANTI BACTERIAL AND ANTI FUNGAL ACTIVITY
USED AS SURGICAL DRESSING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 64
FINISHING TECHNIQUES
BARRIER COATING COATING OF DOW CORNING 5700 (3-TRI
METHOXY SILYL PROPYL DIMETHYL
OCTADECYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDE)
ORGANO SILICONE POLYMER
THE FINISH IS EFFECTIVE IN INHIBITING THE
GROWTH OF ODOUR CAUSING BACTERIA
STABLE TO 40 WASHES
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 65
SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES
IMPORTANT FOR LEISURE WEAR AND
SPORTS WEAR WHERE SOILING IS MORE
IMPORTANT FOR EASY CARE FINISHED
GARMENTS
MAJORITY OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHES
ARE BASED ON
MAKING FIBRE SURFACE HYDROPHILIC
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 66
SOIL AND STAIN RELEASE FINISHES
THREE MAJOR GROUP OF FINISHES CONTAINING
-COOH GROUPS
OXYETHYLENE O/OR HYDROXYL GROUPS
FINISHES CONTAINING –COOH, OXYETHYLENE, -OH GROUPS
MAY BE INCORPORATED IN THE EASY CARE FINISH BATH
IMPROVE SOIL AND OIL STAIN RELEASE DRAMATICALLY
FLURO CHEMICALS
PROVIDE GOOD SOIL, STAIN RELEASE AND WATER
REPELLENCY
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 67
EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES
TRADITIONAL FINISH APPLICATION PADDING LOW WET PICK UP TECHNIQUES LIKE LICK ROLL POROUS BOWL VACUUM EXTRACTION FOAM APPLICTION
ALTERNATE METHODS LAMINATION COATING
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 68
EMERGING TECHNOLOGIES
NEXTEC PROCESS· PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA
· NOVEL PROCESS
· INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER
· CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT
AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE
· ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART
· WRINKLE RESISTANCE,
· SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,
· UV PROTECTION
· FLAME RESISTANCE
· MICROBIAL BARRIER
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 69
NEXTEC PROCESS
THIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION PROCESS ACHIEVED USING
SILICONE BASED POLYMERS POLYURETHANE POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS
THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY
OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING MULTI
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO COTTON FABRICS
AND GARMENTS
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PLASMA TREATMENT
TREATMENT WITH IONIZED GASES PRODUCED BY ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE· HIGHLY SURFACE SPECIFIC · DOES NOT AFFECT BULK PROPERTIED
THE SURFACE PROPERTIES ENHANCED INCLUDE· WETTABILITY· ADHESION· CROSS LINKING· BIO COMPATIBILITY· CHEMICAL AFFINITY OR INERTNESS
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MERITS
· LOW ENERGY CONSUMPTION
· DRY TREATMENT
· ENVIRONMENT FRIEDNDLY
· OFFER SCOPE FOR IMPROVEMENT IN
FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES FOR COTTON
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USE OF BIO TECHNOLOGY
BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC
MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE MAY
USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES WITH
IPROVED PROPERTIES TO PRODUCE
INNOVATIVE EFFECTS THROUGH
FINSHING
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UV PROTECTION· INCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON
EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV
RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF
OZONE LAYER
· UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED
BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR
GARMENTS WITH SELECTED
UV ABSORBERS
Nov. 15,2002 I I T Delhi 74
CONCLUSIONS· DESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL
FINISHES
· IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON
· GIVE VALUE ADDITION
· MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
· IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCE FOR
IMPARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.