CALLED "PADS" A New Name for the Old "Bustle" TO BE WORN AT HIP AND BACK NOT THOSE EXTRAVAGANT AF- FAIRS OF YEARS AGO Shirred Ribbon is to Be Worn Lav- ishly?Violet and Black in Style PARIS, Dee. 16.?(Special Correspond- ence to The Herald.) Such Ideal Novem- ber and December weather Paris seldom boasts. Day after day of bright sun- shine, until people nre beginning to hint that a few snow-flakes would be accept- able. The brisk little winds that come flying up the Champs Elysees carry along the brown leaves with whirlwinds of dust. The black velvet and the violet velvet gowns that one sees so often are pow- dered with this fine light dust, but the fair pedestrians congratulate themselves that it is only dust, and not rain drops, that they must guard against. Dame Fashion must have consulted the clerk of the weather before she issued her decree favoring velvet, for the usual rainy winter weather of Paris would have made it rather impractical to in- vest in a velvet walkinggown. It is just at this season that one gets the best glimpse at the "grande dames" of Paris. The summer deserters are all back and the "Nice goers" have not be- gun their pilgrimages. The elderly dames depend on their carriages foi their outings, but the smart pedestrians that stroll along the Champs Elysees In their ravishing promenade gowns axe B treat to see. VIOLET FOR STREET A rich promenade gown that I noticed had a plain skirt of violet ladies' cloth made close fitting over the hips, with the fulness laid in two narrow box plaits at the back. Of course, the box plaits did not lie Hat, for in all the smart gowns there is a tiny cushion of hair sewed at the back of the skirt that adds a wonderful touch of chic to a costume. With this skirt was worn a corsage of deep violet velvet. It fitted closely t" the curves of the figure back and front. Broad revers of plain violet satin turned away from the high Medlcis collar and continued to the bottom of the corsage, where they ended in points. They wen covered with heavy cream-pale ap- plique, and over the lace there were straps of shirred, narrow, white satin ribbon running crossways, The high Medlcis collar was filled in with frills of white chiffon that formed a jabot at the front. Four bands of nar- row silver passementerie, set with tur- quoise, trimmed the bottom of the cor- sage. The sleeves were close fitting and long, with just a suspicion of fullness at the tops. They were trimmed at the bot- tom with four bands of the passemen- terie. A FUR DRESS A most original street gown was made of soft green Astrakhan cloth. Around the bottom it was trimmed with two rows of scallops. These scallops were cut to show an underskirt of bright tartan under a network of heavy green silk cord that held the edges of the scallops in place. The corsage was a blouse of the cloth, that opened over a narrow bed of the tartan. It was made with short, pointed basques that were faced with the tartan and edged with a fold of dark green velvet. Two broad, round collars of the cloth edged with velvet, gave the effect of rovers at the front. Hound the neck there was a high frill of batiste, worked and edged with silk In the same colors as the plaid taffeta. This frill formed a sort of jabot at the front of the vest. The sleeves w ere long and had very little fullness at the tops. They were finished with small, flaring cuffs, and at the top were trimmed with three bands of the velvet. An attractive promenade gown worn by a young American girl at the chrys- anthemum show was made of light tan corkscrew. The skirt was gored so that It fitted closely over the hips, and the little fullness there was In the back, laid in four tiny overlapping plaits. Eight narrow panels of white moire. covered close with a running pattern in I black soutache braid, were inserted. |' They reached nearly to the waistband. The corsage was of white moire braid- ed with the soutache. Over it was draped the cloth in "bib" fashion, back and front. The moire was cut away nt the neck to show a "V" of the cloth tucked across in fine tucks. The sleeves of the cloth were mounted with short high puffs. Just below the puffs the cloth was laid in a series of narrow tucks that reached nearly to the elbows. The narrow ceinture was of white moire. A rich promenade gown worn by a matron in her forties was made of elephant's gray ladles' cloth. A NEAT SKIRT The skirt was cut with very little flare at the bottom, and the fulness at the back was laid in two narrow box plaits. Around the bottom it WW trimmed with a narrow band of black astrakhan, headed with narrow black soutache sewed in a "zig-zag" line. The corsage was of gray velvet In a deeper shade than the skirt. It was braided closely with the black soutache. The corsage was cut with rounded basques that gave the effect of a Jacket opening over a vest of accordion plaited white mousscline d* sole. It had square revere of white moire, with smaller revers of braided velvet falling over them. A narrow band of the astrakhan trimmed the edges of the revers and bordered the entire corsage. The high collar of white moire had tabs bordered with the astrakhan. A belt of cut steel was worn with this corsage. It Wits slipped under the fur that edged the front of the corsage and fastened with curious old cut-steel clasps. Around the bottom of the plain sleeves was a band of the fur. Some of the eouturieres have assured me that In three months the women of fashion will be wearing good-sized bus- tles. The little cushions that they sew at the back of skirts they now allude to as pads or cushions for the very word bustle has grown distasteful to women who used to wear extravagant great af- fairs not ten years a go. Another new feature of this ye>ar's street gowns is the lavish use of puck- ered ribbon. The skirts are trimmed around repeatedly with ribbon ruches, and rovers and Medici collars are cov- ered with narrow bunds of the puckered ribbon. A PLAID DItESS A very neat walking dress was of tiny plaid goods, with a pale-green pointed panel set in between the breadths. The skirt was quite close-fitting around the hips, and in the back it had the bustle effect. The waist was a blouse, with the green cloth set In to form a side trim- ming and also a vest effect. It was made very warm by podding, so as to be worn without a coat. The prettiest little tilted hat was worn with this dressi with pudding-bag crown of green, and a green rosette under the side of the crown. These pudding-bag hats are much worn, and are made of every material in every color. They are very soft upon the face and are becom- ing to every woman, tall or short. NINA GOODWIN. "A very neat walking 1 dress was of tiny plaid goods'' "It is at this season that one gets the hest glimpse of the'grand dames'" A PIONEER WOMAN (Written for The Herald.) On the January morning in IS4S, when the camp at Sutter's mill was excitedly discussing the lump of shining mineral Mrs. Wimmer had taken from her soap kettle, another pioneer woman was do- ing her daily round of homely duties in a log cabin at Campo de les Franceses, or French Camp. Though she was but twenty-three years old her life had been a series of stirring events since she left her home on the "Western reserve of Ohio four years previous, a bride of nineteen, to make a home with her husband on the prairies of Western Illinois. tin October Ist, 18«. Dr. I. C. and Mrs. Olive M. tsbell reached Johnson's ranch in the company of emigrants command- ed by Captain John Aram, after a Jour- ney of six months over desert and moun- tain, blazing their way as they went, for but few had ventured before them. So limited was their knowledge of the geography of the country, the tirst ques- tion they asked after arriving at John- son's was, "How much farther must we travel to reach California?" and were agreeably surprised to learn that they were already there. Under the personal escort ot General Fremont they were taken to Sutter's Fort and after a week's rest, to Santi. Clara mission. The able-bodied men Joined Fremont's army, setting- out for Southern California, while the women and children, and those not able, re- mained at the mission to endure a winter of indescribable'nardship. Olive label) had nursed the sick, ministered to the dying, run bullets at night to de- fend themselves in case of an open at- tack by the Mexicans, watched the bat- tle of Santa Clara from the mission walls, dressed the wounds of the two men who were shot and then assisted in preparing dinner for the weary sol- diers. In December she gathered up the chil- dren in the mission to relieve overtaxed mothers, and with a few text-books of various grades and two slates, opened the first American school in California. The little Bchool continued until spring when the teacher and her husband with five other familiies went to Monterey on mules; the men to assist Captain (.'has. M. Webber in throwing up fortifications, for the defense of the city. The teacher was induced to teach an- other school there and, the war being practically over, Dr. and Mrs. Isbell opened the first American tavern in that quaint old town and entertained within its w alls ali the noted military and rural officers from Terba Buena to San Diego, .is well as Kit Carson, Fremont's In- dian scout. ]a August 1547 Captain Weber laic! out the town of Stockton, on the site of which Joseph Busiell i>uilt the first log house. Dr. Isbell obtained of Captain VYVber three square leagues of land, eight miles above the embryo city, and built a log house with a puncheon floor and a largo porch across the front, into which they moved in October. The doc- tor had gone extensively into stock rais- ing, was practicing his profession in the sparsely-settled country and Inotdently furthering Captain Weber's efforts in attracting settlers to French Camp, when Marshall tried the soft-soap test on tho historic nugget. It will be remembered by students of state history, that Mrs. Winnner went to the camp on American rive" to board the men while they were building the mill and her husband to act as overseer of th>: work. She was a Georgian by birth and familiar with gold mining in that state. From their first settling at the camp she had observed particles of .mineral glittering in the water used in the house and repeatedly called the attention of the men to it, insisting that it was gold. At first she? was laughed at. with the superior wisdotn of the stronger sex, then some of the men espoused her cause and heated discussions on the subject became of dally occurrence dur- ing meals. Her little son George had found small pieces of mineral in the gravel and this confirmed the mother in her opinion. When .Marshall picked up his shining bit in the mill race, at her suggestion, It was put in the kettle in which she had been boiling soup and when found the next morning untarnished her judgment concerning gold was triumphantly sus- tainedi but, to the regret of Mrs. Wim- tner's Old friend and neighbor, the monu- ment at Coloma was erected to the memory of Marshall. The .soap kettle that settled the con- troversy, unsettled the plans of Captain Sutter and everybody else, and the i ountry soon rang with the cry of gold' gold! gold! Office, workshop, ranch and store were deserted for the "diggings," as they were called. Mrs. Isbell with a hired boy, nine years old, was left with the care of COO head of stock. The ranch be- ing on the main traveled road between Stockton and Sutter's Fort, and no hotels In the country, it became a stop- ping place for the stream of gold seek- ers going to the mines. The young matron soon found herself in the midst of a thriving business, furnishing meals at SI each, which was then considered a moderate price. Eggs srdd at $;! a dozen, butter at $3 per pound, and chickens at $5 each. On Christmas .lay. 1849, she sent a man to Stockton with two demijohns of cream, three of milk, some eggs, four dozen chickens and a few pounds of butter, and he returned with $s<jo as the net proceeds' of the sale. In March after the discovery at Sut- ter's Mill, Captain Weber, Dr. Isbell. the Murphy brothers, Joseph Bussell and others set out on a search for gold but were unsuccessful, confessing on their return they would not have known gold had they seen it. In April they formed a trading company and hit upon tho happy scheme; of hiring Jose Jesus, a Mokelumne chief, and his Indians to dig the gold, for which the company traded them merchandise. They took all Mrs. Jsbell's ribbons, laces and super- fluous finery in her and others' ward- robes, and bought all the calico, beads, ted bandana handkerchiefs, raisins and other things to tempt the Indian eye and appetite obtainable. The "store" was opened at "dry diggings" on the present site of Weaversville. Tho Indians brought in the gold and traded pound for pound, a pound of gold for a pound of beads. The stock was exhausted but the gold kept com- ing, then they sold the clothes they wore, shirts and drawers excepted, boots and stockings Included and sent to Terba Uuena for more goods. The mistress of the ranch did a steady business in making short gowns and petticoats for the squaws, for which she received two ounces of gold each from the company. One night in August, about 12 o'clock, Chief Jose Jesus and iTis band brought the news to the ranch that the Indians had found gold on the headwaters of the Stanislaus river. At 4 in the morning. Mis. Isbell with a. vaquero, was off on horseback to carry the news to the "diggings" of the new discovery, which was afterward called and is still known as Angel's Camp. Bret Harte has-Immortalized Angel's ramp in song and story, wherever the English language is read. The next day the company received tidings from the Indians of another rich strike at what was subsequently named Hangtown and is now Placervllle. What wonder that men almost lost their rea- son in the excitement that followed. Much of the gold belonging to the company was taken to the Isbell ranch in sacks for security, a bank being an institution then unknown in the coun- try. The mistress of the household walked over gold hidden under her puncheon lloor, slept over It concealed under the bed, disguised the bags be- neath piles of rags, made nests and set the hens on it and resorted to every de- vice conceivable in a woman's brain to keep its existence secret from those who stopped tor meals. In the hordes of men now flocking to the mines. In Oc- tober, 1848, a launch arrived at the em- barcadero at Stockton loaded with goods tor the new mines on the Stanislaus, but no men could be found to receive them and Mrs. Isbell was sent for to perform that service. Previous to this time life and prop- erty had been safe In California, without bar or bolt, but when the world outside learned of the golden treasure in its heart, "Sidney ducks" from Australia and the riff-raff of the earth who poured in with the thousands of better men, put to flight forever the halcyon days of the past. Not long after this oc- curred the first murder in the mining regions, that of a German and a lad of 12 years, who had earned $2000 in tha mines and was on his way to Stockton to send it to his grandmother in New- Jersey. The murder occurred within sixteen miles of the ranch by a "Sidney duck" named Lynch, who had camped near the house and taken his meals there. Lynch escaped, and falling In with three other roughs, went south and murdered the Reed family at San Miguel and stole $3000, the proceeds of the sale of a band of sheep. Their ill-gotten gains were of no ben- efit, for when pursued they threw the gold Into the sea above Ventura, jumped in after it and were shot by soldiers. For many years afterward It was a custom- ary thing after storms for the native Callforntans to be seen searching the beach in hope of finding the treasure. The woman whose years span tho American occupation of the state Is now a resident of Santa Paula, Ventura county, where she is hearing the sun- si t of a helpful, useful life. The sub- sequent ecents in her history are deep- ly interesting and some historic, but none, she will tell you, were so stirring, so thrilling, so almost unreal to look back upon, as: "The days of old, The days of gold, The days of '4(1." MARY M. BOWMAN. Newest New Woman's Fur Bicycle Suit DESIGNED BY MME. SARAH GRAND FOR HERSELF LONDON, Dec. s.?(Special Correspondence to The Her- ald.) By a judicious combination of ideas based on Shakes- peare nnd common sense, Madame Sarah Grand, the world famous authoress of "The Heavenly Twins," has evolved a bicycle costume for women that is a startler. She calls her new bicycle dress for women her "Christmas bicycle cos- tume,"and considers that in devising it she has given addi- tional cause for rejoicing among women during the coming holiday season. To begin to explain Madame Grand's costume, it is neces- sary to take the Rosalind of Act 11, in "As You Bike It," and, using her as a lay figure, to build the Madame Grand costume around her. Madame Grand Is an enthusiastic admirer of Shakespeare, and the more she studied the free and iasy grace of Hosalind of the russet doublet and hose, the more she became convinced that, bad bicycles been in use tluring the Shakespearian era, the doublet and hose would have been the costume that level headed women would haVeadopted. It was actually an improvement on the male bicycling costume, argued Madame Grand, for even the erftanclpated man who discarded his voluminous trousers for wide knee breeches and stockings when he mounted the fascinating wheel occasionally complained that the revolving spoke caught in the "knicker" cloth and made trouble. But the hose ofRosalind would prevent even the possibility of a spill. So Madame Grand proceeded to think out her Rosalind bicycle costume, discarding one by one the nineteenth cen- tury articles of dress that fettered the sex when aw bending. "No waist for me," said Madame Grand, at the beginning :of hor studies. "A waist on a bicycle Is absurd. I can nev- er bear to ride In anything tight, especially corsets, and I like to feel free and comfortable." And away went the corsets, and after them the waist, then the skirt and the bloomers, until Rosalind the lay figure was deprived of everything that pertained to modern costum- ing, and stood ready to be rehabilitated In the Shakespear- ian reform dress that Madame Grand had in mind. The costume Is made for winter wear, although it can be fashioned readily enough into an attractive summer rig for the athletic girl. It is made of white fur and follows the Rosalind idea very closely. Over the shoulders is thrown the natty cloak of the Rosalind era, which can be discarded at the option of the bicyclist, but certainly adds to the smart- ness of the wearer's appearanoe. The hose and doublet are modified into tight-fitting knickerbockers of white fur, and on a slender woman look extremely well. Madame Grand does not believe that she is entitled to be roughly oriticised on account of her new costume. "Nothing is unfeminine for a woman," she said, when asked about this point, "unless she chooses to make It so. 1 think we are beginning to show nowadays that we can do Tliany things which used to be thought 'unfeminine,' and be womanly nevertheless. Bicycling Is one of them, and the wearing of a rational bicycle costume goes with it. The skirt Is evidently not tho thing. I have had two bad acci- dents from mine catching, and It was made by an excellent tailor. This is what led me to devote a good deal of thought to the subject, and made me come to the conclusion that an easy and pretty costume might be modeled from Rosalind's dross." IN THE PUBLIC EYE Richard Strauss, the German com- poser and conductor of the opera at Munich, has been conducting some of his own orchestral compositions at the Colonne conceits in Paris. His wife, Mrs. Strauss de Ahna, sang some of his songs at the same concert. A. Conan Doyle's detective stories have been recommended to the police by a prison society of England. Mr. Doyle said recently that after the publi- cation of his stories he was almost deluged with letters telling family mys- teries and asking his aid in solving them. W. H. Trabue of Kokomo, Ind., many years ago and when a mere boy, dlsap peared from home and all traces of him were completely lost. On Tuesday last W. H. Trlbett of Terry, Mass., died, and his will reveals the fact that he was the boy who ran away from home. Ho I went to Mississippi and during the late war commanded a regiment in the con- federate army. He leaves an estate of $2,000,000 to his relatives In Indiana, but the reason of his changing his name re- mains unknown. Aaron Jones of South Bend, Ind., who has just been elected president of the National grange, is a native of Indiana and owns one of the finest farms in the United States. It includes 600 acres, is in a perfect state of cultivation, and Mr. Jones has made a comfortable for- tune on it. Francis Conway Mason, the newly- elected speaker of the parliament of Victoria, has climbed to his present height from very humble beginnings. Twenty-five years ago he was a young and unknown schoolmaster on board the reformatory ship Nelson, in the harbor of Melbourne. Washington Remington, the last of the famous Remington triplets, died at his home in North Smithfleld, R. I. ,tho other day of acute bronchitis, aged 81 years. He had been ill but a few days" He was the son of Henry Remington and, with his brothers, Jefferson and Monroe, now both dead, was born on the same day in the year 1816. At that time three presidents, Washington, Jefferson and Monroe, had served their terms, and the proud father named his three sons after the presidents of the United States. QUITE A DIFFERENCE I found ft in my pocket, this card where figures show; I know I made the figures, but when I do not know. 'Twas some time in tho summer, three months aigo, or four, I noted coming pay-days down and figured up tho score. Here's "board" and "rent" and "laun- dry," al very modest rates, And also "Incidentals" at careful esti- mates. And here the figures showing the weekly sum I'd save? Ah, what a cheery total this latter column gave. The calculation ended November Ist, you Bee, With 'stcen and umpty dollars all hoarded up by me; And here's a memorandum, "suit, hat and overcoat, Gloves, underwear and hosiery." What pleasing visions float Across the mind of him who seeks In sum- mer's golden prime To plan the things he means to do before it's autumn time! How easy 'tis to whittle down expenses yet to be, And make your trial balance show a sur- plus fraught with glee; But, oh, alas! how time destroys these vis- ions sweet and rash? I still retain the figures but I haven't got the cash. ?T. S. Varnum In Chicago Journal. LOS ANGELES HERALDt SUNDAY MORNING, DECEMBER 26, t197 36
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CALLED "PADS"
A New Name for the Old"Bustle"
TO BE WORN AT HIP ANDBACK
NOT THOSE EXTRAVAGANT AF-FAIRS OF YEARS AGO
Shirred Ribbon is to Be Worn Lav-ishly?Violet and Black
in Style
PARIS, Dee. 16.?(Special Correspond-
ence to The Herald.) Such Ideal Novem-ber and December weather Paris seldomboasts. Day after day of bright sun-shine, until people nre beginning to hintthat a few snow-flakes would be accept-
able.The brisk little winds that come flying
up the Champs Elysees carry along the
brown leaves with whirlwinds of dust.The black velvet and the violet velvet
gowns that one sees so often are pow-dered with this fine lightdust, but thefair pedestrians congratulate themselvesthat it is only dust, and not rain drops,
that they must guard against.Dame Fashion must have consulted
the clerk ofthe weather before she issuedher decree favoring velvet, for the usualrainy winter weather of Paris would
have made it rather impractical to in-vest in a velvet walkinggown.
It is just at this season that one gets
the best glimpse at the "grande dames"of Paris. The summer deserters are allback and the "Nice goers" have not be-gun their pilgrimages. The elderlydames depend on their carriages foitheir outings, but the smart pedestriansthat stroll along the Champs Elysees Intheir ravishing promenade gowns axe Btreat to see.
VIOLET FOR STREETA rich promenade gown that I noticed
had a plain skirt of violet ladies' clothmade close fitting over the hips, withthe fulness laid in two narrow boxplaits at the back. Of course, the boxplaits did not lie Hat, for in all the smartgowns there is a tiny cushion of hairsewed at the back of the skirt that addsa wonderful touch ofchic to a costume.
With this skirt was worn a corsage ofdeep violet velvet. It fitted closely t"the curves of the figure back and front.Broad revers of plain violet satin turnedaway from the high Medlcis collar andcontinued to the bottom of the corsage,where they ended in points. They wencovered with heavy cream-pale ap-plique, and over the lace there werestraps of shirred, narrow, white satinribbon running crossways,
The high Medlcis collar was filled inwith frills of white chiffon that formeda jabot at the front. Four bands of nar-row silver passementerie, set with tur-quoise, trimmed the bottom of the cor-sage. The sleeves were close fitting andlong, with just a suspicion of fullness atthe tops. They were trimmed at the bot-tom with four bands of the passemen-terie.
A FUR DRESSAmost original street gown was made
of soft green Astrakhan cloth. Aroundthe bottom it was trimmed with two
rows of scallops. These scallops werecut to show an underskirt of bright
tartan under a network of heavy greensilk cord that held the edges of thescallops in place.
The corsage was a blouse of the cloth,that opened over a narrow bed of thetartan. It was made with short, pointedbasques that were faced with the tartanand edged with a fold of dark greenvelvet. Two broad, round collars of thecloth edged with velvet, gave the effectof rovers at the front. Hound the neckthere was a high frillof batiste, workedand edged with silk In the same colorsas the plaid taffeta. This frillformed asort of jabot at the front of the vest.The sleeves were long and had very littlefullness at the tops. They were finishedwith small, flaring cuffs, and at the topwere trimmed with three bands of thevelvet.
An attractive promenade gown wornby a young American girlat the chrys-
anthemum show was made of light tancorkscrew. The skirt was gored so thatIt fitted closely over the hips, and thelittle fullness there was In the back,laid in four tiny overlapping plaits.Eight narrow panels of white moire.
covered close with a running pattern in Iblack soutache braid, were inserted. |'
They reached nearly to the waistband.The corsage was of white moire braid-
ed with the soutache. Over it wasdraped the cloth in "bib" fashion, back
and front. The moire was cut away ntthe neck to show a "V" of the clothtucked across in fine tucks.
The sleeves of the cloth were mountedwith short high puffs. Just below thepuffs the cloth was laid in a series ofnarrow tucks that reached nearly tothe elbows. The narrow ceinture wasof white moire. A rich promenade gownworn by a matron in her forties wasmade of elephant's gray ladles' cloth.
A NEAT SKIRTThe skirt was cut with very little
flare at the bottom, and the fulness at
the back was laid in two narrow boxplaits. Around the bottom it WWtrimmed with a narrow band of black
astrakhan, headed with narrow blacksoutache sewed in a "zig-zag" line. Thecorsage was of gray velvet In a deepershade than the skirt. It was braidedclosely with the black soutache. Thecorsage was cut with rounded basques
that gave the effect of a Jacket openingover a vest of accordion plaited whitemousscline d* sole.
It had square revere of white moire,with smaller revers of braided velvet
falling over them. A narrow band of
the astrakhan trimmed the edges of therevers and bordered the entire corsage.The high collar of white moire had tabsbordered with the astrakhan. A belt ofcut steel was worn with this corsage.It Wits slipped under the fur that edged
the front of the corsage and fastenedwith curious old cut-steel clasps. Aroundthe bottom of the plain sleeves was aband of the fur.
Some of the eouturieres have assuredme that In three months the women offashion will be wearing good-sized bus-tles. The little cushions that they sewat the back of skirts they now allude toas pads or cushions for the very wordbustle has grown distasteful to womenwho used to wear extravagant great af-fairs not ten years a go.
Another new feature of this ye>ar's
street gowns is the lavish use of puck-
ered ribbon. The skirts are trimmedaround repeatedly with ribbon ruches,and rovers and Medici collars are cov-ered with narrow bunds of the puckered
ribbon.A PLAID DItESS
A very neat walking dress was of tinyplaid goods, with a pale-green pointedpanel set in between the breadths. Theskirt was quite close-fitting around thehips, and in the back it had the bustleeffect. The waist was a blouse, with thegreen cloth set In to form a side trim-ming and also a vest effect. It was madevery warm by podding, so as to be wornwithout a coat.
The prettiest little tilted hat was wornwith this dressi with pudding-bag crownof green, and a green rosette under theside of the crown. These pudding-baghats are much worn, and are made ofevery material in every color. They arevery soft upon the face and are becom-ing to every woman, tall or short.
NINAGOODWIN.
"A very neat walking1 dress was of tiny plaid goods''
"It is at this season that one gets the hest glimpse of the'grand dames'"
A PIONEER WOMAN
(Written for The Herald.)
On the January morning in IS4S, whenthe camp at Sutter's mill was excitedly
discussing the lump of shining mineralMrs. Wimmer had taken from her soap
kettle, another pioneer woman was do-ing her daily round of homely duties in
a log cabin at Campo de les Franceses,
or French Camp.Though she was but twenty-three
years old her life had been a series ofstirring events since she left her home
on the "Western reserve of Ohio fouryears previous, a bride of nineteen, to
make a home with her husband on theprairies of Western Illinois.
tin October Ist, 18«. Dr. I. C. and Mrs.Olive M. tsbell reached Johnson's ranchin the company of emigrants command-ed by Captain John Aram, after a Jour-ney of six months over desert and moun-tain, blazing their way as they went,for but few had ventured before them.
So limited was their knowledge of thegeography of the country, the tirst ques-tion they asked after arriving at John-son's was, "How much farther must wetravel to reach California?" and wereagreeably surprised to learn that theywere already there.
Under the personal escort ot GeneralFremont they were taken to Sutter's
Fort and after a week's rest, to Santi.Clara mission. The able-bodied men
Joined Fremont's army, setting- out forSouthern California, while the womenand children, and those not able, re-mained at the mission to endure awinter of indescribable'nardship. Olivelabel) had nursed the sick, ministered to
the dying, run bullets at night to de-fend themselves in case of an open at-
tack by the Mexicans, watched the bat-
tle of Santa Clara from the missionwalls, dressed the wounds of the twomen who were shot and then assistedin preparing dinner for the weary sol-diers.
In December she gathered up the chil-dren in the mission to relieve overtaxedmothers, and with a few text-books ofvarious grades and two slates, openedthe first American school in California.
The little Bchool continued until spring
when the teacher and her husband withfive other familiies went to Monterey onmules; the men to assist Captain (.'has.
M. Webber in throwing up fortifications,for the defense of the city.
The teacher was induced to teach an-other school there and, the war beingpractically over, Dr. and Mrs. Isbellopened the first American tavern in thatquaint old town and entertained withinits walls ali the noted military and ruralofficers from Terba Buena to San Diego,
.is well as Kit Carson, Fremont's In-dian scout.
]a August 1547 Captain Weber laic!out the town of Stockton, on the site ofwhich Joseph Busiell i>uilt the first loghouse. Dr. Isbell obtained of CaptainVYVber three square leagues of land,eight miles above the embryo city, andbuilt a log house with a puncheon floorand a largo porch across the front, intowhich they moved in October. The doc-tor had gone extensively into stock rais-ing, was practicing his profession in thesparsely-settled country and Inotdentlyfurthering Captain Weber's efforts inattracting settlers to French Camp,when Marshall tried the soft-soap teston tho historic nugget.
It will be remembered by students ofstate history, that Mrs. Winnner wentto the camp on American rive" to boardthe men while they were building themill and her husband to act as overseerof th>: work. She was a Georgian bybirth and familiar with gold mining inthat state. From their first settling atthe camp she had observed particles of.mineral glittering in the water usedin the house and repeatedly called theattention of the men to it, insisting thatit was gold. At first she? was laughed at.with the superior wisdotn of the strongersex, then some of the men espoused hercause and heated discussions on thesubject became of dally occurrence dur-ing meals. Her little son George hadfound small pieces of mineral in thegravel and this confirmed the mother inher opinion.
When .Marshall picked up his shining
bit in the mill race, at her suggestion, Itwas put in the kettle in which she hadbeen boiling soup and when found thenext morning untarnished her judgmentconcerning gold was triumphantly sus-tainedi but, to the regret of Mrs. Wim-tner's Old friend and neighbor, the monu-ment at Coloma was erected to thememory of Marshall.
The .soap kettle that settled the con-troversy, unsettled the plans of Captain
Sutter and everybody else, and thei ountry soon rang with the cry of gold'gold! gold!
Office, workshop, ranch and store weredeserted for the "diggings," as they werecalled. Mrs. Isbell with a hired boy,nine years old, was left with the careof COO head of stock. The ranch be-ing on the main traveled road between
Stockton and Sutter's Fort, and no
hotels In the country, it became a stop-
ping place for the stream of gold seek-ers going to the mines. The young
matron soon found herself in the midstof a thrivingbusiness, furnishing mealsat SI each, which was then considereda moderate price. Eggs srdd at $;! a
dozen, butter at $3 per pound, andchickens at $5 each.
On Christmas .lay. 1849, she sent a manto Stockton with two demijohns ofcream, three of milk, some eggs, fourdozen chickens and a few pounds of
butter, and he returned with $s<jo as thenet proceeds' of the sale.
In March after the discovery at Sut-ter's Mill, Captain Weber, Dr. Isbell.the Murphy brothers, Joseph Busselland others set out on a search for gold
but were unsuccessful, confessing ontheir return they would not have knowngold had they seen it. In April they
formed a trading company and hit upon
tho happy scheme; of hiring Jose Jesus,
a Mokelumne chief, and his Indians todig the gold, for which the company
traded them merchandise. They took allMrs. Jsbell's ribbons, laces and super-
fluous finery in her and others' ward-robes, and bought all the calico, beads,
ted bandana handkerchiefs, raisins andother things to tempt the Indian eye
and appetite obtainable. The "store"was opened at "dry diggings" on the
present site of Weaversville.Tho Indians brought in the gold and
traded pound for pound, a pound ofgold for a pound of beads. The stockwas exhausted but the gold kept com-ing, then they sold the clothes they wore,shirts and drawers excepted, boots andstockings Included and sent to TerbaUuena for more goods.
The mistress of the ranch did a steady
business in making short gowns andpetticoats for the squaws, for which shereceived two ounces of gold each fromthe company.
One night in August, about 12 o'clock,Chief Jose Jesus and iTis band brought
the news to the ranch that the Indianshad found gold on the headwaters of theStanislaus river. At 4 in the morning.
Mis. Isbell with a. vaquero, was off on
horseback to carry the news to the"diggings" of the new discovery, whichwas afterward called and is still knownas Angel's Camp.
Bret Harte has-Immortalized Angel'sramp in song and story, wherever theEnglish language is read.
The next day the company receivedtidings from the Indians of another richstrike at what was subsequently namedHangtown and is now Placervllle. Whatwonder that men almost lost their rea-son in the excitement that followed.
Much of the gold belonging to thecompany was taken to the Isbell ranchin sacks for security, a bank being aninstitution then unknown in the coun-try. The mistress of the householdwalked over gold hidden under herpuncheon lloor, slept over It concealedunder the bed, disguised the bags be-neath piles of rags, made nests and setthe hens on it and resorted to every de-vice conceivable in a woman's brain tokeep its existence secret from those
who stopped tor meals. In the hordes ofmen now flocking to the mines. In Oc-tober, 1848, a launch arrived at the em-barcadero at Stockton loaded with goods
tor the new mines on the Stanislaus,but no men could be found to receive
them and Mrs. Isbell was sent for toperform that service.
Previous to this time life and prop-erty had been safe In California, withoutbar or bolt, but when the world outsidelearned of the golden treasure in itsheart, "Sidney ducks" from Australiaand the riff-raffof the earth who pouredin with the thousands of better men,put to flight forever the halcyon days
of the past. Not long after this oc-curred the first murder in the miningregions, that of a German and a lad of12 years, who had earned $2000 in thamines and was on his way to Stocktonto send it to his grandmother in New-Jersey. The murder occurred withinsixteen miles of the ranch by a "Sidney
duck" named Lynch, who had campednear the house and taken his mealsthere.
Lynch escaped, and falling In withthree other roughs, went south andmurdered the Reed familyat San Migueland stole $3000, the proceeds of the saleof a band of sheep.
Their ill-gotten gains were of no ben-efit, for when pursued they threw thegold Into the sea above Ventura, jumped
in after it and were shot by soldiers. Formany years afterward Itwas a custom-ary thing after storms for the nativeCallforntans to be seen searching thebeach in hope of finding the treasure.
The woman whose years span thoAmerican occupation of the state Is nowa resident of Santa Paula, Venturacounty, where she is hearing the sun-si t of a helpful, useful life. The sub-sequent ecents in her history are deep-ly interesting and some historic, butnone, she will tell you, were so stirring,
so thrilling, so almost unreal to lookback upon, as:
"The days of old,The days of gold,The days of '4(1."
MARY M. BOWMAN.
Newest New Woman's Fur Bicycle SuitDESIGNED BY MME. SARAH GRAND FOR HERSELF
LONDON, Dec. s.?(Special Correspondence to The Her-ald.) By a judicious combination of ideas based on Shakes-peare nnd common sense, Madame Sarah Grand, the worldfamous authoress of "The Heavenly Twins," has evolved abicycle costume for women that is a startler. She calls hernew bicycle dress for women her "Christmas bicycle cos-tume,"and considers that in devising it she has given addi-tional cause for rejoicing among women during the coming
holiday season.To begin to explain Madame Grand's costume, it is neces-
sary to take the Rosalind of Act 11, in "As You Bike It,"and, using her as a lay figure, to build the Madame Grandcostume around her. Madame Grand Is an enthusiasticadmirer of Shakespeare, and the more she studied the freeand iasy grace of Hosalind of the russet doublet and hose,
the more she became convinced that, bad bicycles been in
use tluring the Shakespearian era, the doublet and hosewould have been the costume that level headed womenwould haVeadopted. It was actually an improvement on
the male bicycling costume, argued Madame Grand, foreven the erftanclpated man who discarded his voluminoustrousers for wide knee breeches and stockings when hemounted the fascinating wheel occasionally complained
that the revolving spoke caught in the "knicker" cloth andmade trouble. But the hose ofRosalind would prevent even
the possibility of a spill.So Madame Grand proceeded to think out her Rosalind
bicycle costume, discarding one by one the nineteenth cen-tury articles of dress that fettered the sex when aw bending.
"Nowaist forme," said Madame Grand, at the beginning
:of hor studies. "A waist on a bicycle Is absurd. Ican nev-er bear to ride In anything tight, especially corsets, and Ilike to feel free and comfortable."
And away went the corsets, and after them the waist, thenthe skirt and the bloomers, until Rosalind the lay figure
was deprived of everything that pertained to modern costum-ing, and stood ready to be rehabilitated In the Shakespear-ian reform dress that Madame Grand had in mind.
The costume Is made for winter wear, although it can befashioned readily enough into an attractive summer rig forthe athletic girl. It is made of white fur and follows theRosalind idea very closely. Over the shoulders is thrownthe natty cloak of the Rosalind era, which can be discardedat the option ofthe bicyclist, but certainly adds to the smart-ness of the wearer's appearanoe. The hose and doublet aremodified into tight-fitting knickerbockers of white fur, andon a slender woman look extremely well.
Madame Grand does not believe that she is entitled to beroughly oriticised on account of her new costume.
"Nothing is unfeminine for a woman," she said, whenasked about this point, "unless she chooses to make Itso.
1 think we are beginning to show nowadays that we can doTliany things which used to be thought 'unfeminine,' and bewomanly nevertheless. Bicycling Is one of them, and thewearing of a rational bicycle costume goes with it. Theskirt Is evidently not tho thing. I have had two bad acci-dents from mine catching, and It was made by an excellenttailor. This is what led me to devote a good deal ofthoughtto the subject, and made me come to the conclusion that aneasy and pretty costume might be modeled from Rosalind'sdross."
IN THE PUBLIC EYE
Richard Strauss, the German com-poser and conductor of the opera atMunich, has been conducting some ofhis own orchestral compositions at theColonne conceits in Paris. His wife,
Mrs. Strauss de Ahna, sang some of hissongs at the same concert.
A. Conan Doyle's detective storieshave been recommended to the policeby a prison society of England. Mr.Doyle said recently that after the publi-
cation of his stories he was almostdeluged with letters telling family mys-
teries and asking his aid in solving
them.
W. H. Trabue ofKokomo, Ind., manyyears ago and when a mere boy, dlsap
peared from home and all traces of himwere completely lost. On Tuesday lastW. H. Trlbett of Terry, Mass., died, andhis will reveals the fact that he wasthe boy who ran away from home. HoI
went to Mississippi and during the latewar commanded a regiment in the con-federate army. He leaves an estate of$2,000,000 to his relatives In Indiana, butthe reason of his changing his name re-mains unknown.
Aaron Jones of South Bend, Ind., whohas just been elected president of theNational grange, is a native of Indianaand owns one of the finest farms in theUnited States. It includes 600 acres, isin a perfect state of cultivation, andMr. Jones has made a comfortable for-tune on it.
Francis Conway Mason, the newly-elected speaker of the parliament ofVictoria, has climbed to his presentheight from very humble beginnings.Twenty-five years ago he was a youngand unknown schoolmaster on boardthe reformatory ship Nelson, in theharbor of Melbourne.
Washington Remington, the last ofthefamous Remington triplets, died at hishome in North Smithfleld, R. I. ,thoother day of acute bronchitis, aged 81years. He had been ill but a few days"He was the son of Henry Remingtonand, with his brothers, Jefferson andMonroe, now both dead, was born on thesame day in the year 1816. At that timethree presidents, Washington, Jeffersonand Monroe, had served their terms, andthe proud father named his three sonsafter the presidents of the United States.
QUITE A DIFFERENCE
I found ft in my pocket, this card wherefigures show;
I know I made the figures, but when Idonot know.
'Twas some time in tho summer, threemonths aigo, or four,
I noted coming pay-days down and figuredup tho score.
Here's "board" and "rent" and "laun-dry," al very modest rates,
And also "Incidentals" at careful esti-mates.
And here the figures showing the weeklysum I'd save?
Ah, what a cheery total this latter columngave.
The calculation ended November Ist, youBee,
With 'stcen and umpty dollars all hoardedup by me;
And here's a memorandum, "suit, hat andovercoat,
Gloves, underwear and hosiery." Whatpleasing visions float
Across the mind of him who seeks In sum-mer's golden prime
To plan the things he means to do beforeit's autumn time!
How easy 'tis to whittle down expensesyet to be,
And make your trial balance show a sur-plus fraught with glee;
But, oh, alas! how time destroys these vis-ions sweet and rash?
I still retain the figures but Ihaven't gotthe cash.?T. S. Varnum In Chicago Journal.
LOS ANGELES HERALDt SUNDAY MORNING, DECEMBER 26, t19736
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