Destination 52 March-april 2016 INDIA & YOU The Soul of Sufism Arachika Kapoor Ajmer Sharif, in Rajasthan, is the most important Sufi pilgrimage centre in India. With a marvellous marble structure, vibrant culture, traditional music and prayers, gleaming lights and impressive Mughal architecture, the place is a treat for the soul. Dargah Ajmer Sharif customers, numerous street vendors shout out the prices for the pictures of the dargah. Amidst the noise, fade, soothing recitals of the namaz (prayers) from inside the shrine can be heard. Not only Muslims, but also Hindus, Christians, Sikhs and people from other religions, along with foreigners, visit the shrine. It seems as if the entire universe had been squeezed in this shrunken street. Some devotees are lost in their prayers as they proceed towards the entrance through the cramped street to reach the dargah complex, which is beautifully decorated and glitters with pretty, colourful flowers and lights. Built with white marble, the dargah is a huge white embodiment and the entire complex smells of rose petals and jasmine, offered by the pilgrims all day long. The crowds throng the entrance, bumping into each other as many believers sit in the cramped chamber, while others try to come in to pray. Entering the shrine is like stepping into another world. The main entrance is through Nizam Gate, followed by another gate, called the ‘Nakkarkhana’ because it has two large nakkharas (drums) fixed above it. The third gate, ‘Buland Darwaza’ leads into the dargah courtyard, where people enter barefoot with their heads covered. Removing the shoes and covering the head with a cloth before entering a spiritual place is long inscribed not only in the Sufi culture but also in all religious places in India. Along the entrance of the courtyard are large iron bowls called degs, used for cooking a heavenly sweet dish with a rich aroma. Cooked with rice, oil, sugar, dry fruits and saffron, the dish is distributed to the devotees and poor as tabarruk (blessing) after the morning prayers. At the third gate, with gleaming water, reflecting the morning sunlight, is an exquisite water tank, with rose petals and I tied a thread here almost a year ago and made a wish and now the wish has been ful filled. This is the culture. You come here again to thank Allah when the wish is granted,” says Aabidah Fadel as she unties the thread that she had tied at the shrine on her last visit. Popular belief in India, and other countries, has it that all wishes made at Ajmer Sharif come true and thousands of devotees from across the world visit the shrine to pay homage, not just to have their wishes granted but also to redeem their souls. Those who come to seek blessings have a prayer on their lips and hope in their eyes, while the pilgrims who had their wishes fulfilled come back to thank the almighty for the blessings received. The story of Ajmer Sharif, located in the chaotic narrow streets of Ajmer, Rajasthan, about 400 km southwest of New Delhi, dates back nearly 800 years and is a -key part of the rich Islamic heritage of India. The shrine is essentially built over the grave of a revered Sufi saint, Khwaja Syed Moinuddin Hasan Chishti, who is also known as Nawaz Sharif or Gharib Nawaz and is believed to be the protector of the poor. The shrine is cherished as a magnificent example of early Muslim architecture, built in a town surrounded by the beautiful Aravalli Hills. An architectural wonder Outside the dargah as the tomb of a holy saint is called in India, narrow, busy and crowded lanes lead to the main entrance and along the prolonged street, numerous vendors selling flowers, colorful clothes, traditional sweets, bright coloured bangles and threads, vibrant Rajasthani dresses and incense sticks, capture the place. The shopkeepers compete with the operators of many small hotels that line these lanes to get the attention of the pilgrims, even as beggars chase them for alms. To attract a fountain, to allow the devotees to wash their feet before entering the sanctum sanctorum of the shrine. Beside it is another bowl, smaller than the degs, where pilgrims from all around the world offer money, gold, food, clothes and other gift items as a token of thanks in return of the blessings received. The Dargah Khawaja Gharib Nawaz has several breathtakingly beautiful tombs, buildings and courtyards, all built in Mughal architectural style. The saint’s tomb, with an impressive and dazzling marble dome, is in the centre of the second courtyard, which is surrounded by a silver platform. The tomb is inlaid with pieces of precious stones and is covered everyday with sandalwood paste and ittar (perfume oils). It is always covered with costly ghilaafs (coverings made of velvet and silk) embroidered with gold and silver threads. There is a large mosque in the courtyard, built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, which is the most marvellous of all the structures within the dargah. The entire complex is also decorated with ornate calligraphic inscriptions on the marble walls. One of the main attractions at the dargah is the qawwali programme. Qawwalis (devotional music) are held in the mehfil (gathering) hall where professional singers, called qawwals, sing songs in praise of the saint. The qawwalis, sung by these artists, make a spellbound effect on listeners, many of whom begin chanting and clapping to the rhythm of the musical instruments. All Sufi shrines in India and neighbouring countries have a rich tradition of music and qawwalis, adding to the special charm of these places. Besides the qawwalis, mass prayers are also recited everyday for the eternal peace and well being of people. Opposite the mehfil hall is a free kitchen called langar khana where meals are cooked twice a day and distributed to the poor without any discrimination.