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1. Damask
2. What is Damask? Damask is a style of weaving. It is
characterized by a background of lustrous fabric against which
raised designs appear. Damask is closely associated with luxury.
The weave of damask is very dense, resulting in a substantial
cloth. The designs are often multicoloured, causing them to stand
out clearly against the satin background of the fabric.
3. History. Damask is an Arabic name. In the West, it was first
known as diaspron or diaper, the term used in Constantinople.
Damasks used one of the five basic weaving techniques of the
Byzantine and Islamic weaving centres of the early Middle Ages and
derive their name from the city of Damascus, which at the time was
a large city active in both trading and manufacture. Chinese
emperors were wearing damask fabric as early as the fifth century.
Damasks were scarce after the ninth century outside of Islamic
Spain, but were revived in some places in the thirteenth century.
The word "damask" is first seen in a Western European language in
the mid-14th century in French. By the fourteenth century, damasks
were being woven on draw looms in Italy.
4. From the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, most damasks
were woven in a single colour, with a glossy warp-faced satin
pattern against a duller ground. Two-colour damasks had contrasting
colour warps and wefts, and polychrome damasks added gold and other
metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading
wefts. Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk, but wool and
linen damasks were also woven. In modern times the Italians and
Dutch first made damask; and Europe was supplied, as late as
seventeenth century, from Italy alone, chiefly from Genoa. But the
French soon imitated it, and now surpass the Italians. Damask is
made in great quantities in Germany, chiefly in Upper Lusatia.
Dunfermline is the chief seat of the manufacture of Damask linen in
Scotland, and Lisburn and Ardoyne in Ireland.
5. Yarns Used Silk is extensively used both as warp and
filling, in the finest grades of silk damask. Tram silk is the name
given to reel silk warp yarn. Spun silk is also used for these
fabrics. Other fibres used in making damask fabrics are Linen,
rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, and worsteds.
6. Weaves Used Although in the majority of damask fabrics
nothing but satin twill weaves are employed (principally 5 and 8
har- ness), very good effects are sometimes obtained by combining
other weaves with the satin twills. In Single damask, one warp
thread goes over four and under one weft thread while weaving. In
the double damask, one warp thread goes over seven or even more,
and under one weft thread.
7. Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a
dull back. It is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a
minimum number of interlacing in a fabric. If a fabric is formed
with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk, nylon, or
polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a satin, although
some definitions insist that the fabric be made from silk. Sateen
produces the sheen and softer feel through the use of a different
structure in the weaving process. The sateen structure is four
over, one under, placing the most threads on the surface, making it
extremely soft, though slightly less durable than other weaves.
Standard non-sateen weaves use a one-over, one-under structure.
Satin and Sateen
8. The Play of Light on Damask Fabrics Damask relies on the
play of light to give dimension to the pattern which is subtle and
rich at the same time. The satin formation in a damask fabric
creates areas of motifs rather than one large expanse of lustrous
sheen as seen in a regular plain satin. The pattern is created when
light falls on the damask fabric. The light reflects off areas of
visible arranged fabric warp threads which look shiny against
visible weft threads which look dull within the weave. The
triangular cross section of the silk yarn, increases its surface
area. This helps in reflection of light.
9. Uses of Damask Fabric 1. Damask Curtain Damask curtain can
be included in our home furnishing items. The background of damask
fabric is lustrous and has the raised designs of different thread
that make the damask curtain more appealing and perfect for
upholstery.
10. 2. Damask Tablecloth Damask tablecloth is elegant and can
be used for formal functions, dinners and all other sorts of get
together.
11. 3. Damask Bedding Subtle and high-toned damask bedding is a
sure example of class. Damask bedding comes in pink damask fabric,
black damask fabric, in damask silk fabric, cotton damask and many
more. Cotton damask fabric is particularly famous to make damask
bedding.
12. Motifs Used Most of the designs used in damasks today are
copies of those woven centuries ago in Italy, Spain and France.
Though damask weaving was not an English art, the English
decorators of the 18th century used large quantities of Italian
damasks, both for furniture coverings and as hangings for
walls.
13. In France, the period of Louis XVI a period of dignified
luxury developed many beautiful symmetrical designs, often with
stripe effects combined with flowers and leaves. Most of the
Italian weaves now reproduced hark back to Renaissance motifs,
wherein the pomegranate, the apple of love of medieval times,
surrounded by flowers and leaves, often forms part of the pattern.
Tones of color are found in some of these the Italian fabrics
violet and crimson, or an old gold that has the Cinquecento
charm.
14. While the best designs of damasks are derived from precious
bits preserved in museums, there are also patterns inspired by the
life of today. Delicate peach, jade or other hues, never used by
the old Italian and French damask weavers, make these modern weaves
distinctive.
15. Making of Damask Methods of weaving damask : Draw loom by
the use of jacquard loom by the use of compound harness twill
jacquard
16. The Jacquard machine may be defined as a piece of mechanism
placed above a loom for the purpose raising warp in any possible
order a previously defined pattern may indicate. The framework is
of iron, strongly built in order that the various parts may stand
the strain to which they are subjected during the process of
weaving. The steel hooks or wires which raise the warp are placed
in an upright position, the needles occupying a horizontal
position. Every needle is connected to a hook in such a manner that
when the needle is pressed back by a card the hook is carried back
also a spring at the of each needle sends both hooks and needles
back to their original position. The Jacquard
17. Each hook has a crook at the lower as well as the upper
end. To the crook at the lower end the harness cords are fastened,
and at the lower end of the harness cords the heedless are
attached. In the centre of each heddle a small metal eye called a
mail is fastened. Through the eye of the mail the warp is drawn.
Below each heddle an iron weight called a lingo is attached for the
purpose of keeping harness cord, heddle, mail, and warp in the
proper position. Another important part of the machine is the
cylinder, on which the cards are carried backward and forward.
18. Raw Material (yarns) Design Dyeing Coloured Yarn Reeling
Thread Roll Processing on Warp Machine Warp Roll Graph Paper Punch
Card Series Of Punch Cards Jacquard Loom Final Product Plotting
Punching Combining Punch Cards Process Flow of jacquard
19. Electronic Jacquard Loom Function With electronic Jacquard
looms, the punched paper design is obsolete. The design for the
fabric is instead input into a computer that controls the hooks.
Benefits Electronic Jacquard looms further increased productivity
by cutting down on the time needed to prepare the punch cards and
eliminating the time spent stopping the loom and replacing the
cards for the next section of the fabric. The electronic Jacquard
loom also allowed for a greater variety of yarns to be used,
diversifying the fabrics that can be made with the aid of a loom
rather than by hand.
20. Damask Fabric Front swatch of a acid yellow & black
damask silk Back view
21. Brocade Brocade fabrics mainly consist of solid or
multi-colored silk threads, often times combined with gold or
silver metallic threads. A brocade is woven by adding a
supplementary weft to the weave, creating the illusion that
sections have been embossed into the fabric, or embroidered on top
of it. The back (or wrong side) of a brocade is determined quite
easily, as it will have groups of threads that have been trimmed
away or left out of the weave and look more messy. Front view of a
yellow, creme & metallic gold brocade Back view of the same
brocade as above.
22. Earlier Collections Place of origin: China (probably, made)
Date: 1200-1500 (made) Artist/Maker: unknown Materials and
Techniques: Silk damask This fragment of silk damask have a pattern
in blue on a yellow ground showing a simplified Chinese symbol.
There are stitch holes along the selvedge while opposite there are
remains of stitches in red silk. A small piece of linen cloth
(unbleached) is attached to one edge. Textile fragment
23. The Stein Collection Object: Fragment, Textile Place of
origin: Dunhuang (discovered) Date: late 8th century to 9th century
(made) Artist/Maker: unknown Materials and Techniques: Silk damask
This textile is a twill damask in brown silk with an all over
foliage pattern. It is unclear what it would have been used for
although it is likely to have had a decorative purpose. It was
recovered from Cave 17 of the Mogao Grottoes.