cyclists' travel guid - Adventure Cycling Association

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST m a r c h 2018

[13] The Recipe [1 4] Steel: A Pocket Guide [15] A Chat About Steel [15] Caring for Your Steel Frame [16] Keeping the Lights On: A Dynamo-Powered Explainer [18] Packing Lists [20] Bikepacking Bags

CYCLISTS’ TRAVEL GUIDEAmong the many materials available for

touring bicycles, steel is the big favorite. Although other materials are certainly popular — aluminum, titanium, and carbon fiber among them — touring bike makers and touring cyclists overwhelmingly prefer the ferrous option thanks to its ease of use, affordability, and its ability to be repaired nearly anywhere.

But with steel so prevalent, it can be hard to decipher the myriad options seen in the spec sheets and on manufacturer websites. We’re here to help. We’ll dive into the kinds of steel employed by bicycle makers, take a look at several common tubing manufacturers, and provide tips on how to care for a steel frame once you have one, if you don’t already.

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The base of all steel is iron, “Fe” on the periodic table. One reason steel is here to stay is that iron is the fourth-most abundant element on earth. This keeps the cost down, although the additives used in many alloys are rarer. Thanks to generations of experimentation with steel, there are many varieties, each with its own strengths, weaknesses, and intended uses.

When speaking about bicycles, we commonly refer to ferrous (deriving from the Latin word for iron, ferrum) frames as steel. In most cases, and certainly in the case of high-quality bicycles, that material is more accurately described as chromoly steel. This isn’t the mild steel or inexpensive steel seen at the local hardware store. The steel used in bicycle tubing is an alloy. Chromoly is the result of iron blended with small amounts of chromium, molybdenum, and other elements.

Chromium increases the ability to harden the alloy and enhances corrosion resistance. Molybdenum increases toughness, or steel’s ability to absorb energy and deform before fracturing. The combination also increases the tubing’s strength-to-weight ratio. But these results come from tiny, carefully measured amounts of the additives — 95 percent of chromoly is still good ol’ iron.

Even within the somewhat narrow category of chromoly, there is still great variety. Those who have ridden bicycles for many decades

will recognize names like Reynolds, Columbus, and True Temper as manufacturers and purveyors of many types of chromoly tubing made specifically for bicycle frames. We’ll explore those brands a bit more.

Fans of Surly bikes will likely be more familiar with 4130 chromoly. Unlike “name-brand” tubing like Columbus SL or Reynolds 853, 4130 is a designation given by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) that describes the metal’s ingredients. According to cycling industry legend Scot Nicol’s “Metallurgy for Cyclists” article (ibiscycles.com/support/technical_articles/metallurgy_for_cyclists), 4130 is very popular in quality frames thanks to its “affordability, weldabilty, formability, strength, ductility, and toughness.” Continuing the theme of SAE-designated alloys, less expensive frames, like those found at department stores, use plain carbon steel or 1020 with much lower strength.

the recipe

BY NICK LEGAN[24] Road Test: Fuji Touring Disc [28] Road Test: Surly ECR [31] Geared Up

CYCLISTS’ TRAVEL GUIDE

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Fatigue Strength or Fatigue Life In m

aterials science, fatigue is the weakening

of a material caused by repeatedly applied

loads. Fatigue strength, or fatigue life, describes the range of cyclic stress that can be applied to a m

aterial without causing

failure due to fatigue. Related is fatigue lim

it, a value beneath w

hich a material can endure

an infinite number of stresses w

ithout failure. Steel does have a fatigue lim

it whereas

aluminum

does not. Counterintuitively,

this means that an alum

inum tube w

ill eventually fail no m

atter how low

the cyclic stress rem

ains. To mitigate this, alum

inum

tubes usually have thicker walls. T

hankfully, the stresses involved in cycling are so low

com

pared to industrial scales of stress that a w

ell-designed aluminum

frame can last m

any decades. T

itanium, on the other hand, has a

fatigue strength and fatigue limit sim

ilar to steel alloys.

4130

As

men

tione

d, 4

130

is w

idel

y us

ed in

bic

ycle

fr

ames

. It i

s a

gene

ric

term

, not

a b

rand

na

me

like

othe

rs w

e’ll

disc

uss.

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y bi

cycl

e m

anuf

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rers

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e it

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om d

raw

n,

som

etim

es in

tern

ally

and

/or

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rnal

ly

butt

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o su

it th

eir

desi

gn n

eeds

. It m

ay ta

ke

man

y fo

rms

and

be g

iven

man

y na

mes

, suc

h as

the

“Cob

ra K

ai” t

ubes

et S

alsa

des

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d fo

r its

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rake

sh, o

r th

e “U

tilit

our”

tube

set

Mar

in u

ses

on it

s Fo

ur C

orne

rs, b

ut 4

130

is

the

stee

l mos

t lik

ely

to b

e se

en o

n to

urin

g bi

kes

from

larg

er m

anuf

actu

rers

.

Lugg

ing

Lugg

ed fr

ames

are

bra

zed

toge

ther

with

ei

ther

silv

er o

r br

ass

fille

r to

fix

the

tube

s in

side

the

lugs

.

Double B

uttedButted tubes have varying w

all thicknesses w

ith more m

aterial at the ends so that joints rem

ain strong. Meanw

hile, the thinner sections in the m

iddle save weight. A double-

butted tube has two thicknesses, a triple-

butted tube has three, and so on.

Heat Treating

Heat treating —

the controlled application of heat or cold —

is used to harden or soften a m

aterial. In the case of steel, the application of heat w

ithin a specific range hardens the m

aterial, making it m

ore durable. B

ut too much heat can produce

a brittle material, and too little heat w

ill result in soft steel. Steel tubes are heat treated during the m

anufacturing process to increase strength. U

nlike aluminum

alloy fram

es, steel frames are not heat

treated after they are welded or brazed.

Rey

nold

s Le

gend

ary

Briti

sh b

rand

Rey

nold

s ha

s a

long

hi

stor

y of

pro

duci

ng tu

bing

for

bicy

cles

. In

1897

, the

com

pany

was

gra

nted

a p

aten

t for

pr

oduc

ing

butt

ed tu

bes.

In 19

34, t

hey

debu

ted

the

icon

ic 5

31 d

oubl

e-bu

tted

tube

set.

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e re

cent

ly, R

eyno

lds

853

was

am

ong

the

firs

t ai

r-ha

rden

ing

allo

ys, o

ffer

ing

stro

nger

join

ts

and

incr

easi

ng d

ent a

nd im

pact

res

ista

nce.

R

eyno

lds

is w

idel

y us

ed b

y to

urin

g bi

ke

man

ufac

ture

rs.

Tang

e W

hen

Japa

nese

bic

ycle

s lik

e M

iyat

a, F

uji,

and

Nish

iki m

ade

a sp

lash

in th

e 19

80s,

Tang

e en

tere

d th

e cy

clin

g ve

rnac

ular

. But

the

Japa

nese

tubi

ng m

aker

had

bee

n in

the

cycl

ing

busi

ness

for o

ver 6

0 ye

ars b

y th

en a

nd h

as

been

pro

duci

ng b

utte

d tu

bing

sinc

e th

e 19

50s.

Thei

r exp

ertis

e w

as su

ch th

at T

om R

itche

y so

ught

them

out

to p

rodu

ce h

is L

ogic

tubi

ng.

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is d

ay, T

ange

is u

sed

by b

rand

s lik

e So

ma

Fabr

icat

ions

.

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Har

deni

ngSo

me

mod

ern

stee

l tub

eset

s ar

e ai

r ha

rden

ed,

mea

ning

that

the

heat

from

bra

zing

or

wel

ding

act

ually

incr

ease

s th

e st

reng

th o

f th

e m

ater

ial a

t the

hea

t-aff

ecte

d ar

ea o

f th

e jo

int a

fter

coo

ling.

Rey

nold

s 85

3 is

one

ex

ampl

e. T

his

allo

ws

for

thin

ner

tube

wal

ls,

savi

ng w

eigh

t and

res

ulti

ng in

mor

e da

mag

e-re

sist

ant s

teel

.

Stiff

ness

The

sci

enti

fic m

easu

rem

ent o

f sti

ffne

ss is

ca

lled

mod

ulus

of e

last

icit

y. T

his

refe

rs to

th

e de

gree

to w

hich

a m

ater

ial c

an u

nder

go

a st

ress

, def

orm

, and

ret

urn

to it

s or

igin

al

shap

e af

ter

the

stre

ss s

ubsi

des.

The

larg

er

the

num

ber,

the

stif

fer

the

mat

eria

l. A

stee

l bic

ycle

tube

is ty

pica

lly s

tiff

er th

an

a tit

aniu

m o

r al

umin

um tu

be o

f the

sam

e di

men

sion

s. T

his

is w

hy a

lum

inum

and

tit

aniu

m tu

bes

are

ofte

n la

rger

in d

iam

eter

th

an th

eir

stee

l cou

nter

part

s.

Colum

busStalw

art Italian tube maker C

olumbus w

as founded in 1919 and is still going strong after building its reputation during the era w

hen steel reigned suprem

e among professional

racers. Italian brands like Bianchi, Pinarello, D

e Rosa, C

iocc, and Colnago have all used

tubes from the firm

. Colum

bus currently produces an expansive line of tubesets ranging from

the affordable Crom

or, through its N

iobium line of Spirit, Life, and

SL tubing, all the way to its gorgeous X

Cr

stainless steel tubeset.

True Temper

Unfortunately, after m

any years of making

high-quality U.S.-produced steel tubing for

bicycles, True Tem

per phased out its bicycle tubing options at the end of 2016. But because the firm

’s tubesets were so popular, you

may still see them

in use, especially if you’re looking at the used bicycle m

arket.

TERMINOLOGY CONNECTIN

G

VARIANTS

15

Despite all of steel’s good qualities, no material is perfect. The great enemy of chromoly is corrosion. Here are some easy steps to keep your frame from falling prey to oxidation. These are more urgent for riders who live in wet climates. Those living in the desert can rest a bit easier.

• When you purchase a new frame, be sure to spray J.P. Weigle Frame Saver inside each of the tubes. Vent holes allow ingress. Rotate your frame as it dries so that you coat the entire inside surface of each tube.

• Ensure that your bottom bracket has a drain hole. Have a qualified mechanic

add one if necessary. Check the drain periodically to ensure that it hasn’t clogged.

• After wet rides, remove your seatpost, and in the case of quill stems, remove your stem as well. Turn your bike upside down to empty any standing water, and then allow the frame to “breathe”

67

54

Rey

nold

s Le

gend

ary

Briti

sh b

rand

Rey

nold

s ha

s a

long

hi

stor

y of

pro

duci

ng tu

bing

for

bicy

cles

. In

1897

, the

com

pany

was

gra

nted

a p

aten

t for

pr

oduc

ing

butt

ed tu

bes.

In 19

34, t

hey

debu

ted

the

icon

ic 5

31 d

oubl

e-bu

tted

tube

set.

Mor

e re

cent

ly, R

eyno

lds

853

was

am

ong

the

firs

t ai

r-ha

rden

ing

allo

ys, o

ffer

ing

stro

nger

join

ts

and

incr

easi

ng d

ent a

nd im

pact

res

ista

nce.

R

eyno

lds

is w

idel

y us

ed b

y to

urin

g bi

ke

man

ufac

ture

rs.

Tang

e W

hen

Japa

nese

bic

ycle

s lik

e M

iyat

a, F

uji,

and

Nish

iki m

ade

a sp

lash

in th

e 19

80s,

Tang

e en

tere

d th

e cy

clin

g ve

rnac

ular

. But

the

Japa

nese

tubi

ng m

aker

had

bee

n in

the

cycl

ing

busi

ness

for o

ver 6

0 ye

ars b

y th

en a

nd h

as

been

pro

duci

ng b

utte

d tu

bing

sinc

e th

e 19

50s.

Thei

r exp

ertis

e w

as su

ch th

at T

om R

itche

y so

ught

them

out

to p

rodu

ce h

is L

ogic

tubi

ng.

To th

is d

ay, T

ange

is u

sed

by b

rand

s lik

e So

ma

Fabr

icat

ions

.

Do you design and build for overall strength and life span (fatigue life) on touring models? We do build for overall strength and durability but also for ride characteristics. A balance between stiffness and ride quality is important. I would say that we design for durability for all models, given their specific use. Do other models receive lighter, more compliant tubes? They do where appropriate. And other models get heavier tubesets. Are your touring models built with stouter versions to better handle the weight of racks and panniers? Sort of. We have different grades of touring bikes. Our off-road–rated touring bikes, the Ogre, Troll, and ECR, receive a different tubeset, as they are intended for both on-road and off-road use, than say the standard Long Haul Trucker (LHT). On the Pack Rat, we can use a lighter tubeset as it’s intended for a different use than the standard LHT as well. But, yes, we do. This is not just in the main triangle tubes, but also the seat- and chainstays, as well as the fork blades, dropouts, and braze-ons.

Surly offers bicycles with good value. Is this thanks partly to the affordability of 4130? Thanks! We do try to pack a lot of value into our products. The cost structure of manufacturing with 4130 is certainly part of it. But given

the climate of the bike industry and manufacturing as a whole, other materials are less costly to work with. We like 4130 chromoly for a whole host of reasons. For the types of bikes we strive to make, with an emphasis on utility, versatility, and durability, 4130 is the right material. We could use more costly materials or cheaper ones, but they come with other compromises.

How should Surly owners care for their steel frames and forks? Should they spray Frame Saver inside before assembly? Periodically?Yes, they should use Frame Saver or boiled linseed oil. Make sure it’s the pure, raw kind. You need to check as all linseed oil is not the same. We do ED coat our frames and forks (electrophoretic deposition is a method of painting a corrosion-resistant primer on frames using a large bath and an electric current), except the Big Dummy and Big Fat Dummy frames. They don’t fit in the tank. The ED coat is an excellent base coat and does a base-level protection on the inside of the frame. This ensures that throughout transportation and distribution the frame gets to the customer in the best possible condition. But further protection is recommended. Not to be overlooked, keeping the outside surface protected helps preserve the frame. Surface rust is a primary contributor to premature frame failure.

You mention design specificity for a given intended use frequently. What will a cyclist experience if he/she uses a Surly outside its intended purpose? For instance, what if a cyclist used a Long Haul Trucker, loaded with racks and panniers, on an off-road trail? Are there risks involved, or is the margin of error great enough to accommodate some mild “abuse?” Will the downside be riding characteristics and not a frame failure? We do design around a given use, but we also plan for and anticipate misuse. In your example, a fully loaded LHT ridden off-road might not be a great scenario to find yourself in. The main issue here would be that the handling and geometry are not tuned for it. In addition, the term “off-road” also has a wide range of definitions. Full-on enduro-style singletrack is not a place for a fully loaded road touring bike, whereas a gravel or minimally maintained road would be fine. For some, the latter example could be called “off road.” So, yeah, generally the main downside would be handling. But given the example of the full-on mountain bike trail — where features like drops and other obstacles are common — that may lead to premature frame failure if you were tackling it on your LHT.

Editor’s note: Many thanks to Adam for taking the time to answer our questions on Surly’s use of steel. For more, head to: surlybikes.com/info_hole/spew/some_things_about_our_steel

CONTINUED ON PAGE 23

A CHAT ABOUT STEEL with Adam Scholtes, Surly Product Manager

Caring for your steel frame

turn this page into an 8-page booklet!


KEEPING THE LIGHTS ON

a dynamo-powered explainer

Keeping your electronics charged during a bicycle tour can be a chore. Although USB battery packs extend the range of GPS units, lights, and mobile phones, they too store a finite amount of energy. Those packs also create more items to plug in while at a hotel, restaurant, or campground.

Many cyclists have explored the benefits of dynamo, or generator, hubs to charge their electronic accessories. Although no system is perfect, a well-made dynamo hub with a quality wiring harness, light, and USB charger can keep you off the grid in near perpetuity. But there are limitations. Dynamo hubs can’t produce enough current to top off laptops or larger batteries. You need to research your needs and perform tests during your rides at home before taking off for longer periods.

Before we dive deeply into popular options, here’s a quick primer on how a generator hub works. Inside a dynamo hub is a series of magnets and a stationary coil. As the wheel spins, the magnets rotate around the coil, creating alternating current — AC electricity. A wiring harness routes the juice to a light, a USB charger, or both. Of course, the speed of the hub determines the output of electricity. So at lower speeds,


power is not supplied to accessories wired to the hub. This is why many dynamo lights have built-in capacitors that store enough energy to keep your lights on while stopped.

While hubs continue to improve, advances in LED lighting technology have made dynamo systems more reliable than ever, thanks to lower power requirements and bulbs that are more robust than halogen options.

The Germans are the unquestionable kings of both generator hubs and lights. Schmidt hubs are typically viewed as not only the most expensive models available but also the most reliable. Japanese companies Shutter Precision, Panasonic, and Shimano also produce dynamo hubs, but of lesser quality.

Lights from Schmidt, Busch & Müller, and Supernova get the lion’s share of attention. All produce great headlights with options for urban cyclists, brevet riders, and touring cyclists. Smaller firms like Sinewave and kLite also produce lights of exceptional quality aimed at long-haul riders.

No discussion of generator hubs would be complete without speaking with Peter White of peterwhitecycles.com. He is the largest U.S. importer of Schmidt hubs and many generator lights and accessories. White also has nearly 20 years of experience with dynamo systems. If it’s gone wrong, he’s likely seen it before.

Here are his answers to common questions about dynamo hubs:

What electronics can you charge with a dynamo hub?

With the newer chargers and headlight/charger combos, you can

charge most cell phones. Some giant Samsung phones are too big. GPS units can also be powered.

What maintenance is there for a dynamo hub system?

There really isn’t any. For the really inexpensive hubs we sell from Sanyo, now called Panasonic, along with the Shimano hubs, there is no service to be done on them. I can’t tell you in any detail why that is. But neither company provides any service information. You’re likely to do more harm than good by trying. CONTINUED ON PAGE 32

I can service some of the Schmidt hubs here in New Hampshire. Some of them need to be sent to Germany. Because of the electrical wiring, they are not user serviceable.

What goes wrong when a dynamo hub stops producing electricity?

That will take a little explaining. If your bike is indoors and it’s 35 degrees and raining outside, when you take your bike outside and start riding, the cold air and the rain cool the hub shell. The hub shell cools the air inside the hub. That creates a partial vacuum. The low air pressure inside the hub shell then sucks air in from the outside. If water intrudes at the gap at the axle and the hub shell, it will be drawn in and eventually cause corrosion in the dynamo.

Schmidt has a way of mitigating the problem with a clever axle design that allows air to circulate freely but doesn’t

CO

UR

TE

SY

SH

IMA

NO


When you imagine a loaded touring bicycle, you often conjure two racks,

four panniers, and a handlebar bag. This is the classic manner of conveying rider and camp gear across counties, states, continents, or even around the globe. But just as no two snowflakes are alike, diversity in touring setups is infinite. Here we explore three popular ways that touring cyclists carry their gear, from traditional racks and panniers to ultralight bikepacking, with one hybrid system thrown in the mix. Gear lists provide inspiration for many of us, but no list is comprehensive or offers the perfect solution for all riders. Use these as a starting point and build from there based on personal experience and experimentation. Enjoy!

Racks and PanniersJust as the name implies, here we have two racks and four panniers. Although it is perhaps the heaviest of the three methods

outlined here, it also provides more space for cyclists on the road for months at a time who might indulge in a few more luxury items. It is tried and true and extremely versatile for touring as well as for commuting and general bicycle transportation.

Download sample lists online at adventurecycling.org/2018ctg


Hybrid systemThis is for the rider looking to save some weight or cover ground more

quickly than on a traditional touring setup without foregoing all creature comforts. Using a single rack and only one pair of lightweight panniers, extra cargo is carried using bikepacking bags inside the main triangle, on the handlebars, and mounted to the front fork.

Ultralight BikepackingThis is for the newest breed of touring cyclists, for whom

minimalism delivers more. This allows for speedier and more technical riding while still camping in the wild. Many bikepackers forgo cook systems and carry ready-to-eat food instead. If you’re looking to go ultralight, tents are often substituted by bivouac sacks or tarp systems.


As adventure and mixed-surface cycling has boomed in recent years, so too has interest in soft luggage that is strapped directly to a bicycle, forgoing traditional racks. The appeal is widespread, even for cyclists who never plan on sleeping under the stars. A convenient way to carry items, whether during a round of errands, on the way to work, or when traversing a mountain range, will always be en vogue.

Thankfully the industry has taken a look at the more practical needs of cyclists and responded. At the beginning of 2018, manufacturers both big and small are in on the bikepacking bag action. Previously the domain of small, cottage industry makers, bikepacking bags are now offered by the likes of Specialized, Topeak, and Salsa, as well as established pannier makers like Blackburn, Ortlieb, and Arkel. In fact, bikepacking bags are so popular that a previously backroom operation, Revelate Designs, is now arguably a behemoth in the segment.

So how does a prospective bag buyer decide among the

myriad options? Support a small operation or stick to a brand with which one may have experience? Let’s take a look at options and explore each manufacturer’s strengths and weaknesses.

On the whole, we think that for the typical bikepacker, buying front and rear bags from a larger manufacturer is a great way to save a few dollars. We then recommend you spend that saved money on a custom frame bag from a smaller operation, one with the ability to tailor a bag to your bike and personal needs. Accessory bags like feed bags, top tube bags, etc., are used frequently throughout the day and typically see daily use even outside of long tours. So look for higher quality there as well.

Of course, if you have a lot of experience bikepacking and can’t find what you’re looking for in the bags of bigger manufacturers, or if you have an aesthetic that you’re trying to achieve, a custom bag maker like JPaks, Nuclear Sunrise, Oveja Negro, Andrew the Maker, and Bike Bag Dude will likely fit the bill.

Revelate DesignsEric Parsons began making bags in his spare time while working as a civil engineer. Eventually the demand for his gear grew to the point that he took it on full time. Revelate Designs now finds itself as the leader in the bikepacking bag category thanks to its early work in the segment and continued innovation. The Alaskan company offers a full suite of bags, including several variations harnesses, seatbags and front rolls. revelatedesigns.com

OrtliebLike its excellent panniers, the German brand’s bikepacking bags are exceptional. Both the Seat Pack and Handlebar Pack are waterproof and built to last. They are not as light as other options on the market, but at the same time they verge on cavernous in size. Smart features like a front Accessory Pack, well-executed

attachment points, integrated bungees, and an air purge valve show that Ortlieb did its homework before leaping into the category. We recommend these without hesitation. Ortlieb also has smaller versions of its Handlebar and Seat Pack arriving later this year. Expect a review soon. ortlieb.com

BlackburnIf you’re on a budget, Blackburn’s offerings are tough to beat. They get you out and adventuring without breaking the bank. Blackburn’s Outpost series includes a large seat harness/drybag, a handlebar harness/roll, an expandable

framebag, a top tube bag, and even a set of cargo cages. Quality is on par with other Blackburn accessories. They’re built to last, and with a few bells and whistles, but with a certain plastic feel when compared to other options. Materials aren’t quite as lightweight

as you’ll see from small makers, but Blackburn’s bags do hold up nicely. If you’re curious about bikepacking, Blackburn’s bags represent a good gateway into the arena. After using them in the field, a newer bikepacker can then figure out their personal preferences and needs. But to gain that experience, you have to get out and get dirty. blackburndesign.com

Salsa Cycles EXPDesigned by engineers with extensive bikepacking experience, Salsa’s EXP line impressed from day one. The EXP Anything Cradle is a novel approach to carrying a front load that uses an aluminum and plastic bracket to support a large drybag. The Cradle keeps its load extremely stable and out of the way of cables and hoses on your handlebar, but does so while adding more weight to your bike than most other front bags. For rugged riding though, the Cradle is a fantastic option. An accessory Front Pouch integrates nicely into the Anything Cradle Dry Bag and puts smaller items up front and handy.

The EXP Seatpack is a waterproof bag with a quality attachment, a bungee storage area on top, convenient light

the big players

BIKEPACKING BAGS


attachment loops, and a small air purge valve. At under 400 grams for up to 14 liters in carrying capacity, the Seatpack is quite light. It, like the entire EXP line, presents a good value as well.

Where the EXP line falls a bit short, in our opinion, is with its Framepack. Designed specifically for Salsa’s Cutthroat frame, the bag lacks enough width to carry larger objects and the zippers feel strained even when the bag is nearly empty. salsacycles.com

SpecializedSpecialized is taking the adventure category seriously enough to hire an adventure brand manager. One result of their efforts is the Burra Burra line of bags. Two differently sized seatbags (with an optional stabilizing rack), three sizes of partial framebags, a cargo cage, a handlebar harness, a couple drybags, and a top tube bag complete the line. specialized.com

ApiduraBased in the UK, Apidura produces an extensive line of high-quality bikepacking bags that have found favor among ultra racing and touring enthusiasts. A clean aesthetic and clever features make each bag, whether top tube, frame, seat, or handlebar-mounted,

worth considering. When another UK brand, Rapha, decided to produce a front and rear pack, they collaborated with Apidura to ensure a success.

With two seatbags, each offered in three sizes, four framebags, also offered in varying sizes, multiple handlebar packs, and several accessory packs, Apidura hasn’t shied away from offering a variety of bags. Color though, like Henry Ford’s Model T, is limited to gray with yellow and black accents. apidura.com

LezyneWithout any on-bike experience, it’s difficult to write much on Lezyne’s new bags. Dubbed “Adventure Bags,” they debuted last fall at Interbike and look like a good budget option. The Bar Caddy is small compared to many bar bags at only seven liters, but should work well with dropbars. The XL Caddy seatbag is also on the conservative side at 7.5 liters. These are complemented with the Stuff Caddy, a feed bag that mounts alongside the stem, and the Energy Caddy XL, a top tube bag. lezyne.com

Arkel Canadian bag maker Arkel has expanded into bikepacking bags in the last couple years, but currently only produces bags to mount behind your saddle. Bikepacking-style handlebar bags, top tube bags, and framebags are not on the Arkel menu. Its Seatpacker 9 and 15, as well as the Rollpacker 15 and 25, all feature a clamp-on brace to support the bag’s weight and eliminate sway. Build quality is excellent, as we’ve come to expect from the Quebec-based company. arkel-od.com

going boutique

While the larger bag makers have advantages like wide availability, often lower prices, and shorter wait times (if any), smaller companies are more agile, experiment more frequently, and can easily accommodate custom needs whether functional or aesthetic. Another reason to seek out a custom maker is that they are spread throughout the country. You may be able to visit a maker personally, bring your bike along, and discuss your needs and wants. They are also likely to understand regional needs like frequent wet conditions where a waterproof bag is important or the havoc that dust and dirt can wreak on zippers.

The list of boutique bag makers in 2018 is massive and so we won’t attempt to be comprehensive here. Instead we’ll highlight several brands with established reputations for making reliable bags, many of them with unique features and looks.

Porcelain RocketPorcelain Rocket is one of the older brands in the bikepacking game. Alberta-based Scott Felter has years of experience making bags, and his experimentation has led to innovations like dropper seatpost–compatible seatbags and roll-top framebags. While he is no longer

in the custom game, he does batch runs of each of his bags and they are offered for sale as they are produced. This means that getting your hands on a bag may take some time, but the wait is worth it based on user feedback. porcelainrocket.com

Andrew the Maker Handmade GoodsThe Midwest is no stranger to bikepacking, especially with long gravel epics dotted around the region. In Kansas City, Missouri, Andrew Wiloid produces some of the most beautiful custom bikepacking bags currently on offer. With crisp lines, high-quality materials, and near-perfect execution, his bags are often rendered in vibrant colors. Especially popular are his handlebar-mounted camera bags that protect but also keep photography gear handy. He has also produced many framebags that employ a lace-up mounting on the top tube. This is secure while also allowing some movement. andrewthemaker.com

JPaksDenver-based Joe Tonsager has pioneered bolt-in framebags, creating an amazingly clean look while


eliminating straps that scuff paint in the process. Tonsager produces loads of custom bags, everything from water bladder attachments to carry extra liquid under down tubes, to split framebags that can be used as a partial pack when a lighter load is needed. JPaks’ RukSak feed bag is a personal favorite as it is deep enough to hold a one-liter bottle, a camera, or thousands of calories with ease. jpaks.com

Nuclear Sunrise StitchworksMade in El Paso, Texas, by Dave Wilson, Nuclear Sunrise Stitchworks produces a complete line of custom handlebar, frame, seat, and accessory bags. Wilson is a Tour Divide veteran whose meticulous approach is evident in his well-crafted bags. nukesunrise.com

Bedrock BagsFrom the Four Corners area of Durango, Colorado, Bedrock Bags makes a full suite of bags with several unique options. The Tapeats Handlebar Bag is a fantastic roll-top bag that is easy to use one-handed and large enough for a massive water bottle. When carrying little or empty, it lies flat and out of the way. The Honaker Bag is a way to carry extra fluids or gear on the underside of a bike’s down tube. Bedrock’s SPOT Harness offers an affordable, secure way to mount your GPS tracker to your

bikepacking rig. Last but not least is the RailWing Seat Bag Stabilizer, a design used on both of Bedrock’s seatbags but that can be retrofitted for use on nearly any seatbag to reduce sway. bedrockbags.com

Oveja NegraSpanish for “black sheep,” the Salida, Colorado company has made a name in the Rockies and beyond for high-quality bikepacking bags. With seat, frame, top tube, handlebar, and accessory bags, Oveja Negra can outfit your entire bicycle. One of the

more unique bags they make is the Bootlegger bag, a bolt-on storage solution for fork legs with “Anything” 3-bolt bosses. It uses an internal aluminum frame and holds a 32-ounce Nalgene or 40-ounce Klean Kanteen without the need to use a separate cage, bag, and straps. ovejanegrabikepacking.com

Bike Bag DudeOut of New South Wales, Australia, BBD produces nearly a full suite of bikepacking bags using a variety of materials, great for those who want to focus on durability or weight. They employ sail-making techniques to ensure durability and strength. One construction technique that differentiates BBD from other makers

is the “inside out” seams that wrap around frame tubes. This increases stability and interior space. BBD also acts as an importer of Oveja Negra seatbags (as BBD doesn’t produce one) and BarYak gear into Australia. bikebagdude.com

Bolder BikepackingGreg Wheelwright has quietly made top-notch bikepacking bags from his Boulder, Colorado, home for many years. His focus on function was apparent during the design process for a custom top tube bag that I commissioned. I needed a narrow but extremely long bag that didn’t get in the way of my knees but held vast quantities of food. Wheelwright took the time to discuss options and created a bag that fit the bill to a T. He has made bags for Tour Divide racers, tandem touring couples, and everything in between. bolderbikepacking.wordpress.com

Portland Design Works Portland Design Works produces its Bindle Rack, a seatpost-mounted support for stuff sacks, as another option for those who are willing to trade extra weight for supreme stability. PDW has partnered with Andrew the Maker and Revelate to offer a complete system with drybag options. ridepdw.com


overnight so that additional moisture can evaporate. Apply a fresh coat of grease to your seatpost and quill before installing them. In the case of carbon fiber seatposts, use assembly compound, essentially grease with grit to stop slippage. Titanium seatposts should receive a coat of antiseize compound instead of grease.

• Touch up paint chips using fingernail polish as quickly as possible. If you see any rust, lightly sand the area and clean it with isopropyl alcohol before painting.

• If you ride frequently in the rain, it’s worth disassembling your frame

once or twice a year. Removing the headset bearings, fork, bottom bracket, and seatpost will allow you to dry out any moisture while also inspecting for corrosion. This is also an opportunity to spray in additional Frame Saver.

• When installing or replacing the cables on your bike, apply a thin film of grease to the cable ferrules. This is to keep cable stops from collecting rain or sweat, protecting them from corrosion and making the ferrules easier to replace in the future.

ConclusionChromoly has a long, illustrious

history in cycling. It is the material with which framebuilders have the most history. One could contend that it is the most evolved of the materials used in bicycles. Chromoly, thanks to its unique properties, will remain popular thanks to its affordability, durability, and ease of use. For many reasons, steel is real. But hopefully after this in-depth look, it isn’t really confusing.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15 CARING FOR YOUR STEEL FRAME

June 1-3, 2018

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Road Test

BY PATRICK O’GRADY

➺IT WAS FALL 2015, and the Adventure Cyclist crew was stalking the jungles of Interbike in search of the wily touring bicycle when I noticed one such tucked away in a corner of the Fuji booth, looking forlorn.

This was an old-school rig, the sort of bike that was becoming as rare as hen’s teeth in an industry besotted with the disc-braked, balloon-tired adventure/gravel/monster-crosser in all its splendiferous and preposterous incarnations.

Afterward I blogged about our safari, noting that far from the thundering herd of “all-road bikes” I had seen “one lonely, overlooked traditional setup tucked away in the corner of one booth — a Fuji Touring bike with a triple crank, Tektro rim brakes, and bar-cons.”

We didn’t bag the Touring that time around. But Fuji has added a disc-brake model to the lineup for 2018, and in fall ’17 we finally set our sights on one.

The Touring first rolled around in the 1990s, and its disc-equipped incarnation is a no-nonsense roamer with serious spec and freshly updated geometry. If you’re in the market for a sturdy land cruiser, you’ll want to give the Fuji Touring Disc a look.

My 58cm review model weighed in at 29.9 lbs. complete with clip-and-strap pedals and a rear rack with strap and oversized reflector. All these items are included with the bike, a thoughtful touch.

FUJI TOURING DISC

FUJI TOURING DISCPrice: $1,300

Sizes available: 49cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm, 58cm, 61cm, 64cm

Size tested: 58cm

Weight: 29.9 lbs. with clip-and-strap pedals and rear rack with strap and oversized reflector

TEST BIKE MEASUREMENTS• Stack: 620mm

• Reach: 386mm

• Head tube length: 180mm

• Head tube angle: 71°

• Seat tube: 550mm (center to top)

• Seat tube angle: 73°

• Top tube: 575mm (effective)

• Chainstays: 450mm

• Bottom bracket drop: 78mm

• Fork offset: 52mm

• Trail: 63mm

• Wheelbase: 1070mm

• Standover height: 838mm

SPECIFICATIONS• Frame: Custom-butted Elios

2 chromoly, rack and fender mounts, flat mounts for disc brakes, three sets of bottle bosses, pump peg, chain hanger, down tube cable routing

• Fork: Elios 2 chromoly with 1 1/8-inch steerer, lowrider/bottle mounts, fender mounts, flat mounts for disc brakes

• Handlebar: Oval Concepts 310 Ergo, 440mm, 31.8mm

• Tape: Oval Concepts 300

• Stem: Oval Concepts 313 Ergo, 110mm, 31.8mm, 7° +/-

• Brakes: TRP Spyre C mechanical disc, 160mm TRP rotors

• Brake levers: TRP RRL SR

• Front derailer: Shimano Deore

• Rear derailer: Shimano XT T-8000, 10spd

• Shifter: Microshift bar-cons


You’ll find a wide range of sizes available, from 49cm to 64cm. And be sure to consult your local Fuji dealer about fit. I’ve been ordering 58cm bikes lately, but in that size the Touring felt a little big for me, especially with the stock 110mm stem. I might have been better suited to a 56cm frame, or perhaps a shorter stem.

Like its predecessor, the America, the $1,300 Touring Disc’s frame is double-butted chromoly with three sets of bottle bosses and the usual rack and fender mounts, plus a pump peg and chain hanger.

The fork has two bosses on each blade so you can install your choice of a lowrider rack, extra cages for water or whatnot, or perhaps a couple of lights for those extra-long days that don’t end at sundown.

A tall head tube helps you find a comfortable upright position without a gazillion spacers, and the chainstays are long enough to keep your gear to the rear. If you clip a pannier with your clodhoppers on this rig, you should get back up in the trees where you belong, Sasquatch.

At first glance the Touring Disc appears minimalist to the point of being nondescript. But be sure to roll it out of the showroom and into the sunlight before you write it off as visually uninteresting — there’s a sparkle to that anthracite paint job that doesn’t always show up indoors.

You’ll find some more shiny bits in the 10-speed drivetrain. The bike comes with a Shimano Deore triple crankset (48/36/26T) and Deore/XT derailers, controlled via Microshift bar-end shifters. The 11–36T cassette is from SRAM, and the chain from KMC.

I see a lot of compact double setups and the occasional 1x drivetrain, and after a steady diet of making do with too-tall gearing, I’ll confess that it’s refreshing to ride a triple around Albuquerque, especially if the bike is wearing racks

• Crankset: Shimano Deore T-6010, 175mm, 48/36/26T

• Cassette: SRAM PG-1020 10spd, 11–36T

• Bottom bracket: Shimano BB-SM52 sealed cartridge, threaded

• Seatpost: Oval Concepts 300, 27.2mm

• Saddle: Oval Concepts 300 Pavement

• Headset: FSA, sealed bearings

• Chain: KMC X10EL Black Tech with MissingLink

• Hubs: Shimano Deore LX T-675 centerlock disc, 36h

• Rims: Vera Corsa DPD18 (rear), DPM20 (front)

• Tires: Vittoria Randonneur, wire bead, 700c x 35mm

• Pedals: Wellgo R126 with toeclips and straps

• Rack: Fuji alloy with strap

GEARING IN INCHES

26 36 4811 64.3 89.1 118.8

13 54.5 75.5 100.5

15 47.1 65.4 87.2

17 41.7 57.8 76.8

19 37.3 51.5 68.9

22 32.2 44.7 59.4

25 28.3 39.2 52.3

28 25.3 35.1 46.6

32 22.1 30.8 40.9

36 19.6 27.2 36.2

For online video, see adventurecycling.org/

fujidisc


and sacks. With the Touring Disc loaded, I came to love spinning the 26x28 on extended climbs — and I still had 32T and 36T cogs to bail me out if the going got truly ugly.

The flat-mount disc brakes are likewise proven performers — TRP Spyre C mechanicals with 160mm rotors and drilled TRP RRL SR levers. Two fingers per lever do the trick for all but the most panicked of stops. Okay, so more weight, more fingers — but still.

The double-shielded 700c x 35mm Vittoria Randonneur tires weren’t what I’d call silky smooth on our blocky New Mexican chip seal at their maximum pressure of 70 psi, but they kept on keeping on. I didn’t bother adding sealant to the inner tubes and never had a flat, which is quite a feat in goat-head country. If you favor bigger tires, Fuji brand manager Brian McKinney says you can run 40mm without fenders and 38mm with.

Just about everything else comes from one of ASI’s component brands, Oval Concepts or Vera. The former provides bar, tape, stem, seatpost, and saddle; the

latter contributes the Touring Disc’s Vera Corsa rims, beefy 36-holers like the hoops on another seasoned veteran with comparable spec and pricing, the Trek 520 (see the April 2017 issue of Adventure Cyclist for my review). They’re laced to Shimano Deore LX hubs.

Carrying a light load on a bike like this — an Arkel TailRider and Dry-Lite panniers with a dozen pounds of overnight gear — feels like tossing a fanny pack into the bed of an F-350.

The alloy rear rack can carry up to 40 lbs., according to McKinney. Add a Tubus Tara lowrider rack good for 33 lbs. and you can tackle what the company website says the Touring is intended for — “multiple long days in the saddle carrying a heavy load to your destination.”

My fun meter redlines well before the 73 lb. mark, so I never approached the maximum even with four Ortlieb panniers, a Jandd handlebar bag, and camping gear strapped on the rear rack.

But others have grander schemes and legs to match. With that in mind, a few frame sizes have gotten geometry makeovers to enhance stability and

handling, McKinney said. These include longer head tubes to increase stack, shorter seat tubes to decrease standover, longer chainstays for pannier clearance, and finally, to accommodate the resulting increase in wheelbase and keep the Touring responsive to steering input without any twitchiness, a higher bottom bracket and less fork offset.

“All of these tweaks result in a more stable and better-handling touring bike,” McKinney said. Indeed, loaded or unloaded, the Fuji Touring Disc was as solid as the roads it rides.

But what if you happen to prefer that old-school rig?

As it turns out, you’re in luck: a nine-speed Deore/Alivio Touring with Shimano T4010 linear-pull brakes still rolls the earth. And it can be yours for $1,000.

Patrick O’Grady has written and cartooned about cycling since 1989 for VeloNews, Bicycle Retailer & Industry News, and a variety of other publications. To read more from Patrick, visit maddogmedia.wordpress.com.

schwalbetires.com

DOES NOT MATTER!

The new Flat-less

Incredibly Durable. Rolls Smoothly. Environmentally Conscious. Available Now at your local bicycle retailer. Marathon Plus: The Original.schwalbe.com/flat-less

A flat tire can never be entirely avoided. However, the Marathon Plus provides the very bestprotection against the typical puncture fears like shards and flints.

2014_Marathon_Plus_Full.indd 1 10/24/14 1:15 PM


Road Test

BY ANNA BAHNSON

➺ WHAT’S IN A NAME? What ECR stands for is unclear. Some say Epic Camping Rig while others argue for Exit Cities Rapidly. Both are equally fitting. Yet arguably more fitting is the color choice: beige pantsuit. For a woman, a well-tailored pantsuit conveys power and poise without being flashy. Easily worn in a boardroom or out for happy hour, the color beige boldly declares, “Dirt stains are nothing to fear!”

The same is true of the ECR: a steel frame and plus tires provide a powerfully sturdy yet surprisingly smooth and easy ride on whatever dirt adventures you dream up. Extended bikepacking trip? Weekend gravel grinds? Lugging a six-pack to the local tailgate? Hitting some singletrack on the commute home from work? The beige pantsuit ECR is up to the task.

FIRST IMPRESSIONSRiding the ECR turns heads and

in a good way. This season’s model comes fit with Surly’s new Moloko handlebars. The Moloko is similar in style to the Jones loop bar offered on past ECR models with a few key convenient differences. First, the quirky shape of the Moloko offers slightly more real estate for diverse hand positions to stay comfy over the long haul. I frequently shifted my hands to the center and forward to

SURLY ECR

SURLY ECRPrice: $1,899

Sizes available: SX, S, M, L, XL

Size tested: SWeight: 32.7 lbs. (without pedals)

TEST BIKE MEASUREMENTS• Stack: 579.5mm

• Reach: 398mm

• Head tube length: 115mm

• Head tube angle: 69°

• Seat tube: 406.4mm (center to top)

• Seat tube angle: 73°

• Top tube: 575mm (effective)

• Chainstays: 435mm

• Bottom bracket drop: 60mm

• Fork offset: 43mm

• Trail: 97mm

• Wheelbase: 1074mm

• Standover height: 766mm

SPECIFICATIONS• Frame: Surly 4130 Cromoly

steel; TIG-welded, double-butted main triangle; eyelets for rack, fender, and trailer mounts; two triple mounts

• Fork: 4130 Cromoly steel; two sets of triple mounts, rack and fender eyelets

• Handlebar: Surly Moloko

• Stem: HL Satori, 31.8

• Brake calipers: Avid BB7, Centerline Rotors. 180/160mm front and rear

• Brake levers: Avid FR-5

• Front derailer: Shimano SLX FD-M661

• Rear derailer: Shimano Deore RD-M615 SGS, 10 spd.

gain traction while climbing or moved my hands wider and back for stability while descending. Accessorizing the Moloko with cargo bags or techy tools is easy, although I admittedly lost some hand position utility when I strapped more gadgets to the bars. Surly even offers its own handlebar bag that fits snugly in the center hole.

A second difference from the Jones bar is the smaller, but still generous, sweep angle of 34 degrees. This angle kept my wrists comfortable while allowing easy handling on both trails and dirt roads. I rode with the stock handlebar grips, but you could pop on a pair of ergonomic grips for an easy upgrade and you’ll be riding until sunset day after day. Weight is the main drawback of the Moloko — a hefty 703 grams (for reference, a carbon Jones bar is almost a pound lighter). More on weight later.

The plus-size Surly Knard tires beg attention from onlookers. Many riders have written extensively about the merits and demerits of plus tires so I’ll focus my review on my experience as a first-timer with this increasingly popular tire option. In a word: adoration.

I’m smitten with the smooth, stable ride provided by the 3.0in. width of the Knards. New this year, extra-small and small frame sizes come fit with 27.5 x 3.0in. tires, large and extra-large sport 29 x 3.0in., and medium riders get to pick their fancy with both sizes offered. However, the wheels are not interchangeable — the frames have been designed around their wheel size and are slightly different. As a small rider, I appreciate that Surly took the time to make this important change on their smaller frames to help with handling and comfort.

The 27.5+ tires offer a similar outer diameter as my familiar, standard 29er tires. The 3.0in. width provides exceptional float for dreamy descents. Tinkering with tire pressure gave me increased comfort and confidence in varying terrain. I ended up typically running less than 20 psi. The tires roll well on pavement and singletrack but are most at home devouring packed rock and dirt roads.

Although I did not ride tubeless, the Knards come mounted to tubeless-

• Shift levers: Microshift SL-M10

• Crankset: Surly O.D. 26/39T

• Cassette: SunRace, 10 spd., 11–40T

• Bottom bracket: Surly Enduro, threaded

• Seatpost: Kaloy SP-342, 30.0mm

• Saddle: WTB Volt Sport

• Headset: Cane Creek 40 series

• Hubs: Front: Surly Ultra New Disc, 32h, Rear: Salsa 148 x 12mm thru-axle

• Rims: Alex MD40

• Tires: Surly Knard 27.5 x 3.0in., tubeless ready

GEARING IN INCHES

Contact: Surly Bicycles, 6400 W. 105th St. Bloomington, MN 55438, 877.743.3191, surlybikes.com, [email protected]

26 3911 68.4 102.9

13 58.0 87.0

15 50.2 75.4

18 41.7 62.9

21 35.9 53.9

24 31.3 47.3

28 27.0 40.3

32 23.5 35.4

36 20.9 31.1

40 18.8 28.4

29


ready Alex MD40 rims. Only the 27.5+ Knard tires have a tubeless bead — Surly doesn’t openly endorse going tubeless with the 29+ Knard.

The Knards deserve praise for their own performance, but they work in tandem with the steel frame to provide a cushy ride for long days in the saddle. As with all Surly frames, the ECR is built with 4130 Chromoly steel for both dependability and affordability. Whether inching uphill, cruising the flats, or descending full throttle, the ECR has tremendous straight-line stability. My husband consistently outclimbed me, but I confidently cruised by him on descents. The ECR performs admirably both loaded and unloaded.

Speaking of loaded, the ECR boasts

mount space galore that leaves other touring bikes blushing. Like to keep your rear free of mud? There’s a mount for fenders. Fancy basketpacking or panniers? No problem, attaching front and rear racks is a breeze. Prefer your gear in a trailer? There’s a mount for that too. Mix and match water bottles or Anything cages with ease. The 27.5+ sizes feature two Three-Pack mounts on the frame and four three-pack mounts on the fork. For extended touring, I’m more of a rack-free kind of gal so I ran two water bottles on the fork, one bottle on the down tube, and carried my gear in a handlebar bag, framebag, and seatbag. I had limited clearance between my seatbag and rear tire, but that is more the fault of my short stature. For weekly grocery runs and lugging cold snacks to tailgate (Go Dawgs!), I conveniently used Surly’s own 8-Pack Rack and Petite Porteur House Bag. In short, whatever you can dream up and are willing to carry, there is a spot on the bike to attach it.

WHAT ABOUT WEIGHT?Weighing in at 32.7 lbs. without

pedals, the ECR is anything but light. When fully loaded, the bike is almost half my weight. Yet as a non-racer touring long distances, I’m more concerned with durability and the bike’s ability to smoothly carry a load over the long haul, and the ECR does just that with the dependability of a pack mule. I frequently found myself spinning uphill and grinning for miles.

The components on the ECR help ease the weight burden while pedaling. I’ll gladly give two thumbs up to the Microshift SL-M10 thumb shifters. At

first, I found it awkward to shift with my thumbs above the handlebar, but I now find it second nature as they work with Shimano front and rear derailers shifting smoothly and easily. With a 39/26T Surly double chainring and a Sunrace 11–40T cassette, the ECR boasts a tremendous range of gear inches with a low of 18.1 for seriously long, steep climbs and a high of 102 for equally long descents. Have the dough to run a Rohloff hub? The dropouts on the frame feature a Rohloff torque arm slot should you desire to upgrade.

Tried and true Avid BB7 mechanical brakes pair up with 180mm Centerline rotors in front and 160mm in rear. This combo stops a fully loaded ECR swiftly and equally well in hot, dry, cold, or muddy adventures. Larger riders can increase the front rotors up to 203mm, but the rear is limited to 160mm. The BB7s allow easy and simple caliper adjustments, providing an edge over hydraulic brakes in the backcountry.

Two realities of off-road touring prevail: it can be a blast and it can be expensive. Although the ECR might not have all the techy bells or ultralight whistles of some touring bikes, Surly built a quality bike that won’t break the bank. At $1,899, the ECR boasts a bomber frame accessorized with affordable and reliable components. Searching for a new off-road complete build to ride blissfully into the dirt frontier? Head to your local dealer and try out the ECR. The beige pantsuit might be a perfect fit.

Anna Bahnson is a freelance writer and bikepacker based in Georgia.

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31

Pedaling Innovations Catalyst Pedals, $99

Redshift ShockStop Suspension Stem, $140–$180

A fresh take on flat pedals comes in the form of the Catalyst Pedal from Pedaling Innovations (PI). With a huge 5-inch-long platform, it supports more of your foot for increased efficiency in any shoe. PI promotes a mid-foot over axle position so the pedal supports from the ball of your foot to the heel. The construction of the pedal is top-notch with an aluminum body, two sets of traction pins, and sealed cartridge bearings. PI also offers a 30-day money-back guarantee if you aren’t satisfied, but I’m guessing you will be. –NL

Cycle long enough and you’re bound to experience some hand numbness or wrist pain. There are many ways to remedy and prevent such ailments. One to consider is Redshift’s ShockStop Suspension Stem. It has a hinged extension and adjustable elastomers that allow you to tune the ride feel. Effective suspension travel varies with stem length and handlebar (drop vs. flat), but the reduction in road buzz and bumps is noticeable. Redshift also produces slick accessories for mounting lights and GPS units to the stem. –NL

GEA

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BY NICK LEGAN

Suomy’s Gun Wind Helmet is produced in a rainbow of colors, but we like the HV, or high visibility, line in particular. Despite a somewhat confusing model name, the Italian lid is wonderfully light and ventilates well. Although many high-end helmets are jagged and edgy, the Suomy features a welcome, more rounded shape. I also love the optional Bug Stop Net Padding and clear plastic rain covers (long and short), great for cool-weather riding. The Gun Wind is offered in two sizes and runs true on the XS-M I tested. –NL

Sleep is such a personal thing, but both my wife and I have enjoyed Big Agnes’s Wiley SL 30 sleeping bag. With 650-fill DownTek water-repellent insulation and a mummy shape, it’s a cozy bag great for shoulder-season camping. The Wiley features the REM Pad Sleeve that keeps the bag on top of your sleeping pad and doubles as a storage sack when not in use (you’ll want to source a compression sack when carrying it on your bike). A regular size tips the scales at 1 lb. 12 oz, providing plenty of warmth without excess heft. –NL

Big Agnes Wiley SL 30F sleeping bag, $260–$280

Suomy Gun Wind Helmet, $225

Full reviews + more gear at adventurecycling.org/0318-gear.


allow moisture to enter the core of the dynamo. Fording a river will cause problems. But for 99.9 percent of us who are crazy enough to enjoy riding our bikes in the rain, that isn’t a problem for a Schmidt hub. It is a problem for a Shimano or Sanyo hub.

Any tips on using a dynamo hub?One way to help is to put your bike

outside for 30 minutes, out of the rain, to allow it to precool. This will decrease moisture being drawn in.

I also strongly advise anyone, including the home mechanic who’s really good at doing most things on his bike, against tearing into a dynamo. It’s a big mistake.

(Editor’s note: If you have a problem with a Schmidt hub, please contact Peter White Cycles for help. They can perform a repair or forward the hub to Germany if need be. They also carry factory-refurbished hubs that are used to replace hubs in need of repair. This is far quicker than sending the hub across the Atlantic.)

What lights and chargers do you recommend?

Recommendations depend on the application and the person’s tolerance for uglifying their bike. A lot of people want anything they put on their bike to look good. And there are headlights that look better than others. For instance, a Supernova or Schmidt Edelux II or the IQ X from Busch & Müller are nice-looking lights with an aluminum housing. Someone in each case thought about making a light that is nice to look at.

The Busch & Müller Lumitec IQ Fly is really tall and ugly, but its nighttime beam is really good. Not quite as nice as their best lights, but the margin is small. Underneath the lens is a reflector. Embedded in that reflector are six LEDs. It has an ambient light sensor so it knows whether it’s night or day. At night it projects light on the road surface. In daytime those LEDs act as daytime running lights, making a rider more visible to motorists and other road users. This particular light is probably the best dynamo light for the urban commuter because of what it does during the day.

But I live out in the woods. I don’t need the IQ Fly. I don’t need a daytime running light. I use prettier lights. I have two of the Edelux IIs and a B&M IQ X. They fit my needs best.

When riding on unfamiliar roads — brevets or hilly terrain on fast descents — you want the brightest light you can find. You can then aim the beam higher and see things earlier. That gives you more time to react. For those people, I recommend the Schmidt Edelux II or the Busch & Müller IQ X.

For charging and lighting, the Busch & Müller Luxos U is the best deal around. For someone who has neither a charger nor a headlight and wants to get both, it’s a great deal. It doesn’t have the very brightest beam, but it’s very wide and the differences are very small. And the charger works very well.

The other options, if you already have a really good light, include getting a separate charger. To go on any bicycle, the USB-Werk from B&M is an excellent solution. It can go into any bag on the bike or be strapped to the bicycle using O-rings. A more elegant solution goes on top of the steerer tube, if the fork is threadless and 1 1/8in. and steel. The Tout Terrain Cinq5 “The Plug” replaces the top cap. Supernova private labels the same product. Sinewave, here in the U.S., also has top cap and box USB charger options.

Any tips on wiring and setup?Think about how you’re going to

use your bike. If you have to lock it outside, you need to be very careful about how you run the wire, especially when using a taillight. If you have a lot of scratches, you need to think about how your bike is making contact with the world.

You can also look at how the rear derailer and rear brake cables are routed and use those as pathways for your taillight wire. Just loop it around the housing. Those routings are typically in places that are less likely to get damaged.

(Editor’s note: We recommend spending time on the Peter White Cycles website (peterwhitecycles.com) for more in-depth information and technical discussion on dynamo hubs, lighting, and recharging.)

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17LEGAN: DYNAMO

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