CWG Technical Tasting 9 April 2019 Theme: Some hidden gems ...€¦ · Theme: Some hidden gems - Potential global players? Peter Finlayson Bouchard Finlayson. THE LINE-UP (11 Wines

CWG Technical Tasting

9 April 2019

Theme: Some hidden gems - Potential

global players?

Peter Finlayson

Bouchard Finlayson

THE LINE-UP (11 Wines in 6 Flights)

1. 2011 Tabarrini Montefalco Rosso

2. 2013 Aldo Rainoldi Fruttaio Ca’Rizzieri, Sforzato Di Valtellina DOCG

3. 2013 Sforzato Di Valtellina Albareda

4. 2009 Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi

5. 2011 Ronco Del Picchio, Sforzato Di Valtellina DOCG

6. 2013 Rasea IGP Super Tuscan

7. 2015 Momento Chenin Blanc/Verdelho

8. 2016 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Alte Reben Trocken VDP Erste

Lage

9. 2017 Pfeffingen Scheurebe SP

10. 2017 Weegmüller Scheurebe Trocken

11. 2008 Pfeffingen Scheurebe Trockenbeeren-Auslese

We will be looking at not so obvious regions or cultivars with inquisitive consideration of

their respective value and or merit in being out of the limelight of mainstream wine

popularity.

Six red wines have been selected from Italy.

Four white wines have been selected in focus on the particular variety of Scheurebe.

One local white wine which is introduced as a teaser!

Why this tasting?

Historically the year 1975 had an emphatic bearing on my appreciation of fine wine. I

spent eight months in Germany based at the wine school of Geiseheim where I was

exposed to the great Rieslings of Germany as well as some outstanding examples of

Barolo.

While Barolo has been the dominant statement of Nebbiolo, in 2004 I was introduced to

a different aspect of Nebbiolo; Sforzato; which is the Amarone equivalent of Nebbiolo,

produced in a different region, namely Valtellina in the district of Lombardy. The

historical footprint of this region is every bit as strong as Piedmonte but it has not

enjoyed the same renown.

In this area the Nebbiolo is called “Chiavennasca”. It has produced fine wine for over

seven hundred years, where grapes are grown on ancient terraces, and today it is not

uncommon to have the harvested grapes airlifted from these terraces by Helicopter.

Sforzato: An Italian term meaning “strained,” sforzato wines (also known as sfursat) are

made in northern Italy’s Valtellina region of Lombardy in the appassimento method,

similar to Amarone, by laying harvested grapes on straw mats to dry for several months.

The drying process concentrates sugars and results in higher alcohol wines. In the

Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG, the wines must be a minimum of 90 percent

Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo, and have at least 14 percent alcohol. And in

the far north of Lombardy, on a south-facing wall of vines in the narrow east-west

Valtellina valley on what is effectively a southern extension of the Alps, Nebbiolo makes

wines labelled variously Sforzato, Valtellina Superiore, Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and

Valgella which have a distinctly alpine personality and can take on a certain light

meatiness with age.

FLIGHT 1 – 1/1

2011 TABARRINI MONTEFALCO ROSSO

For four generations, the Tabarrini family has been nestled in the corner of Umbria outside of Montefalco.

They have passionately tended their vineyards, yielding exceptional fruit for producing distinctive wines.In

the late 1990’s, Giampaolo Tabarrini put years of experience to use and decided to bottle his own wine.

Giampaolo now makes some of the most highly respected wines from Central Italy. He produces the top 3

wines in the region and is called “The Rising Star of Umbria.” Tabarrini is continually well rated for his

single-vineyard Sagrantino’s by Gambero Rosso, The Wine Advocate, and most recently, Wine Spectator.

WINERY: Tabarrini

COUNTRY: Italy

REGION: Umbria (Montefalco)

GRAPE VARIETY: Mostly Sangiovese, with the addition of Barbera and Sagrantino.

VINIFICATION: Soaking on the skins for over a month.

CHARACTERISTICS: This is not Sagrantino’s younger brother; it is a wine in its own right, with great

dignity and much potential. The fusion of traditional grapes, Sangiovese and Sagrantino, along with the

precious input of Barbera, ensure this wine has the makings of a future Montefalco classic.

ALCOHOL: 15 %

PRICE: $29

FLIGHT 2 - 1/4

2013 ALDO RAINOLDI FRUTTAIO CA’RIZZIERI, SFORZATO DI VALTELLINA DOCG

At the beginning of the 1920s Valtellina found itself in a context of poverty characterized by

emigration. As often happens in these situations, the necessities of life and the desire to emerge in order

to escape difficulties lead man to animate his spirit of initiative. In fact, the foundations that would have

allowed grandfather Aldo to start this experience were laid down a few years earlier by his father,

Giuseppe Rainoldi. In 1905 Aldo was born, Giuseppe's son and promoter of the Casa Vinicola Rainoldi

which, even today, bears his name. In 1925, it was he who built the building in Casacce, a hamlet of

Chiuro, which still houses the headquarters of the Casa Vinicola. At the beginning of the sixties, Giuseppe

(Peppino for his friends), son of Aldo, took over the reins of the company and thanks to his lively initiative,

there was a profitable expansion of the market, especially abroad.

VINEYARD: Aldo Rainoldi

COUNTRY: Italy

REGION: Sforzato della Valtellina

GRAPE VARIETY: Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca).

VINIFICATION: Its main feature comes from the peculiar way it is produced. It is the result of the

vinification of grapes left to dry in stackable plastic boxes until December-January so that it develops a

high concentration in sugar and a peculiar aroma. It is a full, round wine with a pronounced, complex

aroma. Suitable for very long ageing, provided that it is properly kept in a dry place and with the bottle

lying down

CHARACTERISTICS: The classic Sforzato di Valtellina wine is full bodied, high in alcohol and rich in

flavor. It offers complex aromas of sweet spices (liquorice, cloves and cinnamon), stewed plums, prunes,

and raisins. The telltale hint of tar and roses gives away the main ingredient.

ALCOHOL: 15.5%

PRICE: average R750.00

FLIGHT 2 - 2/4

2013 SFORZATO DI VALTELLINA ALBAREDA

To showcase the strength and potential of this wine we have chosen an ancestral symbol of strength for

the label. Along the south facing slopes of the alps the countryside has been shaped into 2500 kilometres

of dry stone walled terraces to cultivate the grapevines. UNESCO recognised the art of dry-stone walls as

world's intangible heritage of humanity.

VINEYARD: Mamete Prevostini

COUNTRY: Italy

REGION: The Sassella and Grumello areas of Valtellina Superiore

GRAPE VARIETY: 100% dried Nebbiolo

VINIFICATION: After a gentle de-stemming the grapes, lightly pressed, are stored in stainless steel The

grapes are dried until half January and after are carefully selected at the sorting table, not perfectly

containers, where the alcoholic fermentation takes place with a temperature of 25°C for 21 days during

which the skins stays in contact with the wort in the maceration. After the pressing, the wine, placed in

wooden barrels, carries out the malolactic fermentation. Here it remains for a further 20-months period of

aging. The process is completed with 10-months refinement of the wine in bottle .before the release.

CHARACTERISTICS: The aromas of this wine go together perfectly; mature fruit leaves space for a

bouquet of liquorice, alpine herbs, mint and cocoa. The tannins permeate the wine with a hypnotic

balance between subtlety and flavour. Very full bodied, macerated for 21 days, matured for 20 months in

oak casks and further aged in the bottle for 10 months

ALCOHOL: 15.5%

PRICE: average R768

FlIGHT 2 -3/4

2009 SASSELLA RISERVA ULTIMI RAGGI

Born in 1860. Reborn in 1984. Growing up in 2004. These are the main stages of our history, rooted in

the times of the Unification of Italy. A tradition that has always had the goal of wanting to maximize the

potential of Nebbiolo delle Alpi , in a unique terroir such as Valtellina . The Perego family has been

tending vines on these sheer granite terraces in the mountainous Valtellina since 1860. The vines are so

far north into the alps they are practically in Switzerland.

VINEYARD: Arpepe

COUNTRY: Italy

REGION: Valtellina Superiore

GRAPE VARIETY: Nebbiolo

VINIFICATION: They work only with Nebbiolo, or Chiavennasca as it is called in these parts, growing the

grapes up to 700 metres above sea level on sheer, south-facing, sunlit vines that dig straight into rock.

The resulting fruit is intensely mineral. Production is very much of the old-school and labour is intense,

the hills making it very difficult to reach the fruit at all. Everything in the vineyard is done by hand and in

the cantina the family exercises a soft touch with great patience, leaving the wines to rest until they are

deemed ready for release.

CHARACTERISTICS: From a parcel in the very highest part of Sassella, around 600 metres above sea

level, this is what the great sforzato wines once were and perhaps what they ought to be.The Perego’s

believe that a true expression of grape, place and vintage is lost when one dries grapes away from the

vineyard. Instead they harvest their fruit late, in this case in the middle of November, allowing the overripe

grapes to dry on the plant. The wine spends 30 days on skins in tiny and four years in huge old chestnut

casks and is impossibly deep – full of warmer, sweeter fruit.

ALCOHOL: 14%

PRICE: average R1059 Critics have scored this as one of the top 5 Valtellina Superiore Sassella wines: WinEnthusiast gave the 2009 vintage

a score of 95.

FLIGHT 2 - 4/4

2011 RONCO DEL PICCHIO, SFORZATO DI VALTELLINA DOCG

THE SOCIETÁ AGRICOLA FAY was founded in 1973 by Sandro Fay who, starting from a

small family-run wine producing business, decided to expand the estate’s activities; since

1998, Sandro has been flanked by his children Marco and Elena. The business area is 15

hectares.

VINEYARD: The Societa Agricola Fay

COUNTRY: Italy

REGION: Sforzato della Valtellina

GRAPE VARIETY: Nebbiolo

VINIFICATION: Ronco del Picchio made from 90 day dried grapes like Amarone is rich, hedonistic and

intense and a true Vino da Meditazione. Sforzato truly represents the greatness of Nebbiolo in the

Valtellina. Fay's top wine has to be one of the be one of the best in the area, grown at 700 metres up on

death defying, steep terraces, Roncho del Picchio is a labour of love for young wine maker Marco Fay.

Practicing organic with soils that are thin sandy, silty soil / no limestone or clay / pH between 4.5 and 5.5.

The harvest Technique is by hand in first week of October.

CHARACTERISTICS: The wine has unmistakable style and personality with a rich layered profile from

ripe Nebbiolo fruit to cocoa and sweet oak nuances. The palate is both powerful and warm but maintains

freshness and great finesse. A stunning Nebbiolo, a rival for many in Piemonte and one of Italy's great

red wines! A must try for lovers of great Nebbiolo, and also for lovers of Amarone.

ALCOHOL: 15%

PRICE: average R706

FLIGHT 3 - 1/1

2013 RASEA IGP SUPER TUSCAN

Poggio del Moro is located in the middle of Tuscany, the heaven of smoky slopes, to the south of

Montepulciano, in the neighbourhood of old Chianciano. The Estate has been created through the love

and passion of Tania and Alex during the last 10 years with the help of a professional, young and

passionate team from all over the world.

Our faithfulness to traditions, unsurpassed elegance and excellence, our love of nature and caring

attitude to each and every grape and olive tree – these are the basic principles of Poggio del Moro

philosophy which is to express the soul of our vineyards. Our vinery aims at diligent and loving care of

vineyards following all environmentally friendly technologies – they are cultivated by hand with strict

respect for nature and tradition, and careful attention to each production step.

VINEYARD: Poggio Del Moro

COUNTRY: Italy

REGION: Tuscany

GRAPE VARIETY: Sangiovese

VINIFICATION: Ripe, juicy grapes are handpicked and loaded into large casks, filling up each with no

more than 10 kg. Berries are later carefully selected and destemmed with the help of a vibrating table.

They are then being macerated for 15 – 18 days in a controlled environment, where the temperature

doesn’t rise above 28°C and are continuously exposed to frequent bâtonnage. Softly crushed and then

placed into small oak barrels from 5 to 10 hl, grapes are kept to mature for at least 12 months, followed

by a minimum of 8 months of ageing in the bottle. Soil type: sand (79%), clay (15%) and light loam (6%).

Per hectare yield: 40 Hl/Ha.

CHARACTERISTICS: All the mesmerizing, deep flavors are perfectly wrapped in a voluptuously elegant

and refined framework of black cherry and raspberry. It reveals a graceful balance on the ripe and

complex palate, contributing to the wine’s particular, noble tone. Firm tannins embody the tremendous

earthy crescendo that broadens out and evolves, as the wine delicately unfolds, lingering on a long,

luscious finish.

ALCOHOL: 14.5%

PRICE: average R683.00

FLIGHT 4 - 1/1

2015 MOMENTO CHENIN BLANC/VERDELHO

This is the second vintage from Marelise Niemann, who practices very hands-off winemaking from her Bot

River winery with purchased grapes. Just 3,800 bottles have been made (labels drawn by her husband

Hennie) and the Chenin portion is up by 6% in 2015 – a vintage she says is the best ever.

VINEYARD: Momento

COUNTRY: South Africa

REGION: Botrivier and Swartland

GRAPE VARIETY: 91% Chenin Blanc, 9%Verdelho

The Verdelho is always the 1 st grape to ripen in this white blend. Grapes are picked early while flavours

are slightly more towards the lemon/lime profile, thereby preserving natural acid and a healthy pH for good

ageing potential, freshness and vibrance. The Verdelho portion was whole berry skin- fermented for 7

days before pressing into old barrels for the last part of the ferment and maturation. Time on the skins

resulted in a more textured, layered wine, with some delicate spice to the nose.The Chenin blanc grapes

were picked at 21 to 22 Balling. The grapes were whole bunch basket- pressed, allowing some air to

partly oxidise the juice. The juice settled for a day, without adding any enzymes or sulphur, and then taken

to old, 400L French oak barrels for natural fermentation and maturation. Time in oak is 10 months.

VINIFICATION: Old vine Chenin blanc from Bot River and Swartland blended with a 12 year old Verdelho

vineyard from Bot River. Bokkeveld shale, decomposed granite and sand.

CHARACTERISTICS: Fresh fruit and floral tones, quince and apricot aromas combined with hints of

lemon and spice. Vibrate and generous palate with a soft, but fresh, acidity showing a textured complexity

with great depth

ALCOHOL: 13%

PRICE: average R210

FLIGHT 5 - 1/3

2016 Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Alte Reben Trocken VDP. Erste Lage

The Hans Wirsching winery ranks among the best known and largest privately held wine estates in all of

Franconia. Now in its 14th generation, the Wirsching family has been making wine since the 1630's! with

the vineyards that remained to him after the rootstock pest disaster (grape phylloxera) and two World

Wars, Hans Wirsching Sr., continued in the family's tradition and philosophy of consistency and quality.

Keeping faith with these ideals of the past generations he laid the foundation for an immaculate wine-

growing operation. Then, in 1966, his sons, Dr.Heinrich Wirsching and Hans Wirsching Jr. (past away in

1990) continued to build the winery's reputation as they expanded the area of the vineyards under

cultivation. Dr.Heinrich Wirsching, a prudent estate owner and visionary wine maker, has turned the

estate into one of Franconia's leading Silvaner producers.

VINEHARD: Hans Wirsching

COUNTRY: Germany

REGION: Franken

GRAPE VARIETY: Scheurebe

VINIFICATION: The Scheurebe represents a very interesting type of wine. First cultivated in 1916 by

Georg Scheu, this grape variety requires better-than-average sites. The grapes ripen late, in the last

sunny days of autumn, but then often reach 80° Oechsle and more. Scheurebe wines fascinate with a

classy fruit acidity and a full-bodied bouquet, which reminds one of black currant. And, with longer

maturity, hints of peaches and roses emerge to delight.

CHARACTERISTICS: Variegated aromas, brilliant, exotic character, grapefruit, mango, mint, cassis,

litchi. Full-bodied, off-dry acidity, long-lasting finish, extraordinary, high minerality, lively acidity.

ALCOHOL: 12.5%

PRICE: average R396.00

Flight 5 - 2/3

2017 PFEFFINGEN SCHEUREBE SP

With much passion and passion we lead the winery Pfeffingen. With us family sense is capitalized.

Because only together can you achieve outstanding results. So live and work three generations on the

estate in Pfeffingen, a small hamlet between Bad Dürkheim and Ungstein directly on the German Wine

Route. In the heart of the Palatinate. From 17 hectares of best vineyards characterful to produce

individual wines, drives us. Wines that taste good, where they have grown. Wines that promise drinking

pleasure and joy. The numerous positive reviews and the membership in the VDP. The predicate

vineyards confirm our actions. But even more important to us is the daily conversation with our

customers. We specialize in fruity-mineral Rieslings, elegant Burgundies and colorful, strong red wines.

Our aromatic Scheureben, which are a real seduction both dry and noble sweet, are particularly popular.

Let yourself be inspired and get to know the secrets of the Pfeffinger wines.

VINEYARD: Weingut Pfeffingen

COUNTRY: Germany

REGION: Pfalz

GRAPE VARIETY: As a cross between Riesling and bouquet vine the grape variety Scheurebe 1916 by

Dr. med. Georg Scheu bred in Alzey. Their particular advantages in the dessert wine production

(attractive bouquet, late maturity, good acidity structure) led to a rapid national and international

distribution of the grape variety. In the winery Pfeffingen Scheurebe has been dedicated to 50 years with

enthusiasm. It is next to the Riesling the most important grape variety and shows here also their size in

the dry area.

VINIFICATION: The Scheurebe vineyard in the house Pfeffingen is located in an absolute top location,

the Ungsteiner Herrenberg. The grape variety was deliberately planted there, because of the high

demands on the location and soil. Only really good locations, with a south exposure and a strong, well-

cared for soil ensure the optimal ripeness of the grapesCHARACTERISTICS: A fine grapefruit and lime

aroma beguiles the senses. The complex body and its mineral nature inspire the palate and contribute to

a perfect overall picture. A wonderful wine - to eat or as a soloist to enjoy.

ALCOHOL: 12.50 %

PRICE: average R369.00

Flight 5 - 3/3

2017 WEEGMÜLLER SCHEUREBE TROCKEN

The Weegmüllers, an old noble family from Zurich, emigrated from Switzerland to the Rhineland

Palatinate in 1657. The family began producing wine in 1685. In 1737, the Weegmüllers settled in Haardt,

a village close to Neustadt an der Weinstrasse. Haardt, also known as ‘the balcony of the Palatinate’ offers

breathtaking views over the Rhine Valley. Almonds, lemons, figs and unique vines can all be found

growing on this sunny terrace of Germany.

VINEYARD: Weingut Weegmüller

COUNTRY: Germany

REGION: Pfalz

GRAPE VARIETY: Scheurebe

VINIFICATION: The outstanding vineyard sites of the Mittelhaardt are the basis of our excellent wines.

After all, without appropriate soil, it’s not possible to produce above-average wines. The lion’s share of

our vineyards (almost 90%) are located in the top classified regions of Haardt

CHARACTERISTICS: This 100% Scheurebe wine is enticingly fragrant, with irresistibly intense aromas.

Notes of mandarin and blood orange combine with delicate spicy flavours. This is refreshingly crisp on the

palate, with a lifted, aromatic finish.

ALCOHOL: 12.5 %

PRICE: average R314.00

Flight 6 - 1/1

2008 PFEFFINGEN SCHEUREBE TROKENBEEREN-AUSLESE

Sense of family is given pride of place at Weingut Pfeffingen.

Three generations of the Eymael family live and work together at the attractive estate situated on the

Deutsche Weinstrasse (German Wine Road). Both families can look back on a long viticultural tradition.

Our coat of arms to this day, with its mythical unicorn, was conferred in 1622 by Emperor Ferdinand II.

VINEYARD: Weingut Pfeffingen

COUNTRY: Germany

REGION: Ungstein

GRAPE VARIETY: Riesling

VINIFICATION: The Pfalz, which begins south of Rheinhessen and is in effect the northward extension of

Alsace's Vosges foothills, is the warmest and driest of Germany's Riesling regions, supporting fuller-

bodied wines that are typically dry. In fact, the soil here, like Alsace, shows great diversity, marked by

alluvial gravel and various types of sedimentary rocks, as opposed to the near exclusive domination of

slate in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. While only about one-fifth of the vineyards are planted to Riesling, the

grape holds a disproportionate position in the top growing sites, just like elsewhere in the Rhine.

CHARACTERISTICS: The buttery texture of the corresponding B.A. (picked the same day) is here

accentuated, and strong honeyed and caramelized streaks adding to the sage oil and mint concentrate,

marmalade, and pit fruit preserves also familiar from this wine's twin. Subtle yeastiness, vanilla, and nut

paste accentuates the confectionary, butter-cream aspects of this elixir, while a sense of near

weightlessness belies its textural richness and sheer viscosity. It should be worth following for at least 30

years.

ALCOHOL: 9 %

PRICE: average R780.00

94 points Wine Advocate

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Catalogue and Presentation

Nicolene Finlayson

Danél Theron

Amoré van Zyl

Accumulation and forwarding of the wines

Eva Ploner of Daviso PR, Balzano Italy

Catering

Executive Chef Stefan Otto of Penguino Guest

House, Hermanus