Cultural studies project [mumbai culture]

HISTORY OF MUMBAI

“Ancient yet modern, fabulously rich yet achingly poor.”

The city of Bombay originally consisted of seven islands, namely Colaba, Mazagaon, Old Woman's Island, Wadala, Mahim, Parel, and Matunga-Sion. This group of islands, which have since been joined together by a series of reclamations, formed part of the kingdom of Ashoka, the famous Emperor of India.

After his death, these islands passed into the hands of various Hindu rulers until 1343. In that year, the Mohammedans of Gujarat took possession and the Kings of that province of India ruled for the next two centuries. The only vestige (mark) of their dominion over these islands that remains today is the mosque at Mahim.

In 1534 the Portuguese, who already possessed many important trading centers on the western coast, such as Panjim, Daman and Diu, took Bombay by force of arms from the Mohammedans. This led to the establishment of numerous churches, which were constructed in areas where the majority of people were Roman Catholics. There used to be two areas in Bombay called "Portuguese Church". However, only one church with Portuguese-style facade still remains; it is the St. Andrew's church at Bandra. The Portuguese also fortified their possession by building forts at Sion, Mahim, Bandra, and Bassien which, although in disrepair, can still be seen. They named their new possession as "Bom Baia" which in Portuguese means "Good Bay".

A hundred and twenty-eight years later the islands were given to the English King Charles II in dowry on his marriage to Portuguese Princess Catherine of Braganza in 1662. In the year 1668 the islands were acquired by the English East India Company on lease from the crown for an annual sum of 10 pounds in gold; so little did the British value these islands at that time. The Company, which was operating from Surat, was in search for another deeper water port so that larger vessels could dock, and found the islands of Bombay suitable for development. The shifting of the East India Company's headquarters to Bombay in 1687 led to the eclipse of Surat as a principal trading center. The British corrupted the Portuguese name "Bom Baia" to "Bombay". The Kolis used to call the islands "Mumba" after Mumbadevi, the Hindu deity to whom a temple is dedicated at Babulnath near Chowpatty's sandy beaches.

The first Parsi to arrive in Bombay was Dorabji Nanabhoy Patel in 1640. The Parsis, originally from Iran, migrated to India about 900 years ago. This they did to save their religion, Zoroastrianism, from invading Arabs who proselytized Islam. However, in 1689-90, when a severe plague had struck down most of the Europeans, the Siddi Chief of Janjira made several attempts to re-possess the islands by force, but the son of the former, a trader named Rustomji Dorabji Patel (1667-1763), successfully warded off the attacks on behalf of the British with the help of the 'Kolis', the original fisher-folk inhabitants of these islands. The remnants of the Koli settlements can still be seen at Backbay reclamation, Mahim, Bandra, Khar, Bassien and Madh Island.Sir George Oxenden became the first British Governor of the islands, and was succeeded later by Mr. Gerald Aungier who made Bombay more populous by attracting Gujarati traders, Parsi ship-builders, and Muslim

and Hindu manufacturers from the mainland. He fortified defenses by constructing the Bombay Castle (the Fort, since then vanished except for a small portion of the wall) and provided stability by constituting courts of law.

Between 1822 and 1838, cattle from the congested fort area used to graze freely at the Camp Maidan (now called Azad Maidan), an open ground opposite the Victoria Terminus. In 1838, the British rulers introduced a 'grazing fee' which several cattle-owners could not afford. Therefore, Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy spent Rs. 20,000 from his own purse for purchasing some grassland near the seafront at Thakurdwar and saw that the starving cattle grazed without a fee in that area. In time the area became to be known as "Charni" meaning grazing. When a railway station on the BB&CI railway was constructed there it was called Charni Road.

The Zoroastrian Towers of Silence on Malabar hill were built by Seth Modi Hirji Vachha in 1672. The Zoroastrians believe in venerating the earth, fire, and water and hence they prefer to expose their dead to the elements and flesh-eating birds within the confines of the Towers of Silence. The first fire-temple was also built in the same year by Seth Vachha opposite his residence at Modikhana within the British fort. Both of these structures can still be seen today although they have been expanded and strengthened.

The inroads of the sea at Worli, Mahim, and Mahalaxmi turned the ground between the islands into swamps making Bombay an extremely unhealthy place at that time. Many commuters going to the Fort by boat between islands lost their lives when there was a storm during the monsoons (July to September). During the next 40 years much was done to improve matters. Reclamation work to stop the breeches at Mahalaxmi and Worli were undertaken. The Hornby Vellard was completed in 1784, during the Governorship of Mr. Hornby. In 1803 Bombay was connected with Salsette by a causeway at Sion. The island of Colaba was joined to Bombay in 1838 by a causeway now called Colaba Causeway and the Causeway connecting Mahim and Bandra was completed in 1845 at the total cost of Rs.1, 57,000 donated entirely by Lady Avabai Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, wife of the first baronet Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy with a stipulation that no toll would be charged to citizens for its use by the government. Initially the cost was estimated at Rs.100, 000 but as the work commenced in 1842 the cost escalated. When the initial sum was exhausted and work about to stop Lady Jeejeebhoy once again dipped in to her personal purse with a second donation to the treasury of Rs.57, 000.

Sir Robert Grant (1779-1838) governed Bombay from 1835 to 1838 and was responsible for the construction of a number of roads between Bombay and the hinterland. The Thana and Colaba Causeways were built during his tenure as well as the Grant Medical College attached to the Sir Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy (J.J.) Group of hospitals.On Saturday 16th of April, 1853 a 21-mile long railway line, the first in India, between Bombay's Victoria Terminus and Thana was opened. The Great Indian Peninsular (GIP) and the Bombay Baroda and Central India (BB&CI) Railway were started in 1860 and a regular service of steamers on the west coast was commenced in 1869. Also during this period Bombay enjoyed great economic wealth. Raw cotton from Gujarat was shipped to Lancashire in England through Bombay port, and after being spun and woven into cloth, returned to be sold in the Indian market. The outbreak of the American Civil War in 1861 increased the demand for cotton in the West and several personal fortunes were made during this period from the resulting trade. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 brought the West closer to Bombay, and as the city became more prosperous, many schemes were launched for reclaiming additional land and building more roads and wharves. Bombay began to attract fortune hunters by the hundreds and the population had swelled from 13,726 in 1780 to 644,405 in 1872, in a little less than a hundred years. By 1906 the population of Bombay was to become 977,822.

In 1858, following the First War of Independence (the British called it the "Sepoy Mutiny") of 1857 in which the Rani of Jhansi and her infant son strapped on her back were killed, the East India Company was accused of mismanagement and the islands reverted to the British Crown. In 1862 Sir Baartle Frere was appointed

Governor, an office which he held until 1867. By 1862 the town had spread over the lands reclaimed through constructions of causeways and it is from this date we have the rise of the modern city of Bombay. In 1864 a fountain was to be erected in his honor at the Victoria Gardens by the Agri-Horticultural Society of Western India. Somehow, the plans were changed at the last moment and the fountain, named after the Greek goddess Flora, was placed in the centre of the city on what used be known as Hornby Road. Unfortunately, no plaque was placed on the fountain to commemorate the name of Governor in whose memory it was supposed to have been erected.

Around 1860 the piped water supply from Tulsi and Vehar lakes (and later Tansa) was inaugurated. One reform which met with much superstitious opposition, before it was implemented, was the sealing and banning the use of water from open wells and tanks that bred mosquitoes. A good drainage system was also constructed at the same time. However, several decades later, the same wells were to serve Bombay by providing non-potable water to supplement the same from the lakes. This was true especially during those years when the monsoons failed to provide sufficient water in the catchment areas of the lakes. However, well water is now used all over the city to supplement the water received from the lakes.

The later half of the 19th century was also to see a feverish construction of buildings in Bombay, many of which such as, the Victoria Terminus, the General Post Office, Municipal Corporation, the Prince of Wales Museum, Rajabai Tower and Bombay University, Elphinstone College and the Cawasji Jehangir Hall, the Crawford Market, the Old Secretariat (Old Customs House) and the Public Works Department (PWD) Building, still stand today as major landmarks. The Gateway of India was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary for the Darbar at Delhi in 1911.

The docks at Bombay are a monument of the industry, enterprise and integrity of the Wadia family which moved in from Surat at the instigation of the British. In 1870 the Bombay Port Trust was formed. In 1872, Jamshedji Wadia, a master ship-builder constructed the "Cornwalis", a frigate of 50 guns, for the East India Company, a success which led to several orders from the British Navy. In all the Wadias, between 1735-1863 built 170 war vessels for the Company, 34 man-of-war for the British Navy, 87 merchant vessels for private firms, and three vessels for the Queen of Muscat at Bombay docks.

The Princess Dock was built in the year 1885 and the Victoria Dock and the Mereweather Dry Docks in 1891. Alexandra Dock was completed in 1914. The closing years of the 19th Century were tragic for Bombay as the bubonic plague caused great destruction of human life once more. One significant result of the plague was the creation of the City Improvement Trust which in later years encouraged the development of the suburbs for residential purposes to remove the congestion in the city.

As Bombay's superintendent of police in 1885, Charles Forjett was a favorite of the Indian people. Many wept openly when he returned to England. He sacked British constables who unduly harassed the locals and cracked down on the Parsi mafia which was involved in the liquor business in the Falkland Road area, which included the famous "Play House" which the locals corrupted to "pillhouse". The "Pillhouse" area would acquire notoriety in later years as the infamous "cages" area housing Bombay's infamous red-light district.

Lord Sandhurst governed Bombay between 1895 and 1900 and it was during his tenure that the Act was passed which constituted the City Improvement Trust which, among other things, built the Sandhurst Road in 1910 and handed it over to the municipality. The Sandhurst Road railway station (upper level) was built in 1921.

As a result of a mysterious fire which started in one of its holds, on a very hot summer's day on Friday April 14, 1944, the ship "Fort Stikine" (7420 tons) blew up in the Bombay docks. At the time the ship was about to unload a lethal combination of cargo of dried fish and cotton bales (loaded from Karachi), timber, gun

powder, ammunition, and gold bars from London (the latter to stabilize the Indian Rupee, which was sagging due to the Second World War and fear of invasion from Japan). The gold bullion was valued at approx. two million Pounds Sterling at that time. Nobody is certain as to how the fire started but the two explosions which followed were so loud that windows rattled and/or shattered as far away as Dadar, a distance of 8 miles. The destruction in the docks and surrounding area was immense and several hundred dock workers were killed instantly. A majority of brave men of the Bombay Fire Brigade, who answered the call to duty immediately after the first blast, lost their lives in the second explosion (a monument has been erected in the docks in their honor). The population of the city was panic stricken as rumors spread rapidly that the explosions signaled the commencement of hostilities by the Japanese on the same style as the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor in the Hawaiian Islands in December 1941. The Japanese were in fact nowhere near Bombay since they were engaged in fighting a losing battle with the British army in Burma at that time. Nevertheless, the Bombay Central (BB&CI) and Victoria Terminus (GIP) stations were packed to capacity with terrorized people fleeing the city in whichever train they could board for their villages with all belongings they could carry. At the time of the explosion, one of the gold bars crashed through the roof of the third floor apartment of a Parsi named D.C. Motivala more than a mile from the docks. He promptly returned the gold bar to the authorities. Almost all of the other gold bars were subsequently recovered from different parts of the city; the last ones to be found were hauled up from the bottom of the sea in the docks. However, during normal dredging operations carried out periodically to maintain the depth of the docking bays one or two gold bars were found intact sporadically as late as the 1970s and returned to the British government. The government took full responsibility for the disaster and monetary compensation was paid to citizens who made a claim for loss or damage to property.

The Port Trust Railway from Ballard Pier to Wadala was opened in 1915. Along this railway were built grain and fuel oil depots. The kerosene oil installations were developed at Sewri and for petrol at Wadala. In the same year the first overhead transmission lines of the Tata Power Company were erected, and in 1927 the first electric locomotives manufactured by Metropolitan Vickers of England were put into service for passenger trains up to Poona and Igatpuri on the GIP railway and later electric multiple unit (EMUs) commuter trains ran up to Virar on the BB&CI railway and up to Karjat and Kasara of the GIP railway. During the Second World War these EMUs were joined together to form long trains which carried troops and small arms and ammunition to and from Bombay to the hinterland.

The Fort (downtown) area in Bombay derives its name from the fact that the area fell within the former walled city, of which only a small fragment survives as part of the eastern boundary wall of the St. George's Hospital. In 1813 there were 10,801 persons living in the fort, 5,464, or nearly 50%, of them Parsis. With the growth of the city more people came from the Fort to such suburbs as Byculla, Parel, Malabar Hill, and Mazagaon. European sports clubs for cricket and other games came in to existence early in the 19th Century. The Bombay Gymkhana was formed in 1875 exclusively for Europeans. Other communities followed this example, and various Parsi, Muslim, and Hindu gymkhanas were started nearby with fierce sports competitions among them being organized on a communal basis. This was opposed by several secular minded persons, such as the late A.F.S. Talyarkhan, and sports teams based on community, especially cricket teams, came to an end gradually after independence from British rule in 1947.

The historic session of the All India Congress Committee began on the 7th of August 1942. Its venue was the Gowalia Tank Maidan, where the congress was born in 1885. It was at this session that the "Quit India" call was given by Mahatma Gandhi and other Indian National Congress leaders. The Indian leaders were arrested by the British soon afterwards but the momentum of the Quit India movement could not be stopped and led to the final withdrawal of the British on 15 August 1947. The last British troops on Indian soil left for England through the archway of the Gateway of India on that day. They bade farewell from where they had entered 282 years before. The people of Bombay, in a gesture of generosity wished them bon voyage, forgetting the

bitter memories of the fight for independence. Today the maidan from where the call to "Quit India" was given is called the "August Kranti Maidan".

After independence the Congress party led by Jawaharlal Nehru at the Center was swept to power in most of the Indian States, which were constituted on the basis of language spoken by the majority of its people. The Bombay State included the city as its seat of government. In 1960 the state of Bombay was split into Maharashtra and Gujarat states again on linguistic basis, the former retaining Bombay city as its capital. The Congress party continued to administer Maharashtra until 1994 when it was replaced by the Shiv Sena-Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) coalition.

With the success of the back-bay reclamation scheme in the late 1960s and early 1970s Nariman Point became the hub of the business activity. Several offices shifted from the Ballard Estate to Nariman Point which ultimately became one of the most expensive real estate in the world as high demand pushed prices to astronomical limits. Nariman Point is named after K.F. Nariman, president of the Bombay Provincial Congress Committee and former mayor of Bombay. Churchgate Street was also renamed as Veer Nariman Road after independence.

The Stock Exchange at Bombay was established in 1875 as "The Native Share and Stockbrokers Association" which has evolved over the decades in to its present status as the premier Stock Exchange in India. It is one of the oldest in Asia having preceded even the Tokyo Stock Exchange which was founded in 1878. In the early days the business was conducted under the shade of a banyan tree in front of the town hall. The tree can still be seen in the Horniman Circle Park. In 1850 the Companies Act was passed and that heralded the commencement of the joint stock companies in India. The American Civil War of 1860 helped Indians to establish brokerage houses in Bombay. The leading broker at the time, Premchand Roychand, assisted in framing conventions, ground rules and procedures for trading which are respected even now. He was the first Indian broker who could speak and write in fluent English. The exchange was established with 318 members with a fee of Re. 1/-. This fee has gradually increased over the years and today it is over a crore.

In January 1899, the Brokers' Hall was inaugurated by James M. MaClean, M.P. After the First World War the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE) was housed in an old building near the Town Hall. In 1928, the present plot of land was acquired surrounded by Dalal Street, Bombay Samachar Marg, and Hammam Street. A building was constructed in 1930 and occupied in December of that year.

In 1995 the operations and dealings of the BSE were fully computerized and thus the famous out-cry system of share trading was replaced by screen based trading as in other modern stock exchanges around the world. Today Bombay is the financial and business capital of India. The BSE is housed in the 28-storied Phiroze Jeejeebhoy Towers in the same place where the old building once stood. Sir Phiroze Jamshedji Jeejeebhoy was the Chairman of the Exchange from 1966 till his death in 1980. The building has been named after him since its construction commenced during his Chairmanship and was completed just as he passed away.

CULTURE IN MUMBAI

“Culture of the mind must be subservient to the heart.”

The culture of any place is always determined from its people, religion, language, cuisine and festivals. Mumbai has an assortment of people from various communities and subsequently they follow different religions. Since the metropolitan is observing modern trends, here people enjoy participating in all festivals irrespective of caste, creed and color. Another reason could be the influence of the Bollywood, where a potpourri of multi-ethnic culture is observed. The cultural heritage of Bombay presents a combination of old and new. The people of the 'Film City of India' seek to follow the hip-hop lifestyle of the celebrities residing here. The 'bindaas' or carefree approach of the Mumbaikars comes alive in their dialect of Mumbaiya Hindi too. Read on to

know more about the culture of the Mumbai city of India.

Cuisine

Food simply means scrumptious dishes in Mumbai. Mumbai is really a junction of multi cuisine foods and fast foods. The dining experience at an upscale restaurant in Mumbai is more or less the same as anywhere else in the world. If you search hard enough, you will find cuisine from practically every part of the world represented in the city. There is a lot culinary variety like South Indian, Chinese, Mughlai, Thai, Mexican, and Lebanese apart from Mumbai's own popular items like Vada Pavs and Bhel Puri.

The Chaupati Beach always reminds one of the lip-smacking 'Bhel Puri', a fast-food made of puffed rice, with lots of chillies, sauces and chopped onions. A typical Bombay platter consists of curries, rice, curd, chapattis, vegetable, salad, sweets etc. In fact, platter system is quite prevalent in the city and makes the most-preferred meal, seeing that it contains the all-inclusive diet of an individual.

The traditional food of Mumbai is just awesome. Mumbai's dishes like Bombil Batata Bhaji, Kamag Kakri, Solachi Kadhi etc, are famous all over India. Here, people enjoy their own variety of fast-food, which ranges from Bhel Puri to Pav Bhaji and Vada Pav to Pani Puri. Most of these snacks are really hot and spicy, which would certainly tickle your taste-buds. Vada Pav, the hamburger of Mumbai, is a deep fried cutlet made of potatoes inside round-shaped bread.

Pav Bhaji and Pani Puri are the most loved snacks amongst most of the Indians. Where Pani Puri is puffed puris filled with sprouts and potatoes, Pav Bhaji is made of vegetables and is eaten with round-shaped bread. Chidva or flattened rice cooked with spices and vegetables is another great recipe from the capital of Maharashtra. Shrikhand, Shira, Chikki and Puran Poli are its famous desserts that are appreciated round the world.

Indian cooking is distinguished by the use of a larger variety of vegetables than many other well-known cuisines. Within these recognizable similarities, there is an enormous variety of local styles.

In the north and the west, Kashmiri and Mughlai cuisines show strong central Asian influences. Through the medium of Mughlai food, this influence has propagated into many regional kitchens. To the east, the Bengali and Assamese styles shade off into the cuisines of East Asia.

All coastal kitchens make strong use of fish and coconuts. The desert cuisines of Rajasthan and Gujarat use an immense variety of dals and achars (preserves) to substitute for the relative lack of fresh vegetables. The use of tamarind to impart sourness distinguishes Tamil food. The Andhra kitchen is accused, sometimes unfairly, of using excessive amounts of chilies. All along the northern plain, from Punjab through Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, a variety of flours are used to make chapatis and other closely related breads. In the rain-swept regions of the north-eastern foothills and along the coasts, a large variety of rices are used. Potatoes are not used as the staple carbohydrate in any part of India.

Modern India is going through a period of rapid culinary evolution. With urbanisation and the consequent evolution of patterns of living, home-cooked food has become simpler. Old recipes are recalled more often than used. A small number of influential cookbooks have served the purpose of preserving some of this culinary heritage at the cost of homogenising palates. Meanwhile restaurants, increasingly popular, encourage mixing of styles. Tandoori fish, mutton dosas and Jain pizzas are immediately recognisable by many Indians in cities.

Tea is the most popular beverage drunk followed by coffee. There are numerous tea stalls in almost all roads and corners catering to this drink. Other popular drinks include fruit juices and coconut water.

Mumbai is also the home to some of the prominent and oldest restaurants in India. Delhi Darbar, Sindhudurg, Highway Gomantak, Samrat, Vitthal Bhelwala, Mahesh Lunch Home, Kailas Parbat, Adarsh and others are some of the oldest restaurants in the city. But to get a real flavor of what's unique to Mumbai; one will have to go a little lower down the scale and experience the street food and Irani cafes. That is what is described here.

SPECIALITY RESTAURANTS

Sea Food — Mahesh Lunch Home (near Fountain and in Juhu) and Trishna (Kala Ghoda) are famous for their coastal cuisine. The latter is of course good, but had become too touristy by nature. Apurva (Fort right off Horniman Circle) is also very good. If you want to eat some authentic Indian (Konkan) sea food you must visit the Bharat Excellensea. It is located next to the Horniman Circle and the Reserve Bank of India.

Italian — Shatranj Nepoli (Bandra, Union Park), Little Italy (Juhu next to Maneckji Cooper school), Don Giovanni's (Juhu, opposite JW Marriott), Mezzo Mezzo (at the JW Marriott), Vetro (at The Oberoi, Mumbai), Celini (at the Grand Hyatt), Mangi Ferra (Juhu), Taxi(Colaba), Spaghetti Kitchen (Phoenix Mills, Parel).

North Western — Peshawari (at Maratha Sheraton, Andheri). Its sister restaurant Bukhara in Delhi has been recognized as the best Indian restaurant across the world. Try tandoori jhinga, the kebab platter, sikandari raan (leg of lamb), and mangoes and ice cream (only during summers). Kandahar (The Oberoi, Mumbai), Kebab

Corner (Hotel Intercontinental), Copper Chimney (Worli) Khyber (Kala Ghoda), and Kareem's Malad Link Road in Malad W.

Regional Indian — Dakshin (Maratha Sheraton) and Woodlands (Juhu) for south Indian, Oh! Calcutta for Bengali (at Tardeo), Poush (Andheri) for Kashmiri, Preetam's Dhaba (Dadar) and Urban Tadka (Mulund)for Punjabi food, Chetana (Kala Ghoda), Thacker's (Marine Drive), and Rajdhani (multiple locations) for Gujarati Thalis. NEW and a must try is Casa Soul Fry (opp Bombay University in town) which serves up Goan Cuisine.

General Indian — Sheetal Bukhara, Great Punjab (both in Bandra).

Parsi — Originating from Iran, the Parsis are a special community of people that one would associate Mumbai with. Parsi food is similar to Iranian. Go to Brittania at Ballard Estate or Jimmy Boy close to Horniman Circle.

Vegetarian — Swati Snacks (Tardeo, opposite Bhatia Hospital) a gem of a restaurant, it does not take bookings and the waiting during peak meal times is usually 45 minutes every day of the week! Little Italy located on Juhu Tara Road (Jugu), Andheri West opp. Fame Adlabs multiplex, Malad (above croma), New Yorkers on Marine Drive Opp chowpatty; Creame Center on Linking Road, Bandra near Shopper's Stop and also on Marine Drive opp chowpatty; Statua at Nariman point opposite. Maker Chambers. Relish (Hotel Samrat — Churchgate) an excellent vegetarian cuisine from around the world.

Chinese — India Jones (Hilton Towers Mumbai), Mainland China (Saki Naka), Ming's Pavillion (Colaba), Golden Dragon (Taj Mahal Hotel), Great Wall (Renaissance), Spices (JW Marriott), China Gate (Bandra), China White (Bandra). Royal China at VT (behind Sterling Cinema serves some of the best DimSum the city has to offer). The new CG83 at Kemps corner is brilliant and the signature restaurant of Nelson Wang. Also new is Henry Thams. The food is brilliant as are the prices, however the bar is much more popular than the restaurant.

Japanese — Wasabi by Morimoto (Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba) is Mumbai's best and most expensive restaurant, but Japanese food is on the menus of most Pan Asian restaurants like Tiffin (The Oberoi, Mumbai), Pan Asian (Maratha Sheraton), India Jones (Hilton Towers Mumbai), and Spices (JW Marriott), Origami (Atria Mall Worli). Also Japengo Cafe at CR2 Mall in Nariman Point serves up some sushi. Tetsuma, adjacent to Prive (probably best nightclub in town) serves an average sushi but other dishes are worth a try. Best to go there for a cocktail and a few starters. 'Tian cafe' at Juhu is also a good place for sushi. Try the Teppanyaki restaurant at Tian.

Combination Oriental — India Jones (Hilton Towers Mumbai), Pan Asian (at Maratha Sheraton), Seijo, and Soul Dish (Bandra), Jos (Kala Ghoda) has some of the best East Asian food in the country and at moderate prices (compared to hotels).

Fusion — Zenzi (Waterfield Road, Bandra), Out of the Blue ( Pali Hill, Bandra).

Lounge — Olive (Bandra), Rain (Juhu), Indigo.

Specialty Deli — Indigo Deli (Colaba), Gourmet Shoppe (The Oberoi Shopping Arcade), Moshe's (Cuffe Parade), Cafe Basilico.

Cafe — Leopold and Cafe Mondegar (both near Regal Cinema, Colaba) are great places to while away time, eat cheap, and get a beer. Mocha (chain) is popular with the younger crowd. Deliciae, the dessert cafe which has some of the best desserts in town, is located next to Olive in Khar.

24X7 Coffee Shops — Trattoria (Taj President), Frangipani (Hilton Towers Mumbai), Vista (Taj Land's End, Bandra), Hornby's Pavilion (ITC Grand Central), Lotus Cafe (JW Marriott), basically all the big hotels have one.

Goan, Coastal — Goa Portuguesa (Mahim) near Hinduja Hospital. New and a must try is Casa Soul Fry (opposite Bombay University in town) which serves up Goan Cuisine.

STREET FOOD STALLS

Songs have been written about Mumbai's street food and you will find that the hype is justified. You will find them at every street corner, but they are concentrated in beaches and around railway stations.

Bhelpuri stalls — Selling what in the rest of India would be called chaat. In Mumbai itself, the term chaat is rarely used.

Rolls — Essentially different meat and cheese grilled and served with some Roti and spice, these are cheap and cheerful for anyone with a stomach that can handle it. They are known to be spicy so always ask them to make it mild. Try Ayubs (Kala Ghoda), Bade Miyan (highly over-rated), Khao Gulli (Food Lane, near Mahim Hindu Gymkhana), or Kareems (Bandra). All are particularly busy after a night of heavy drinking.

Vada pav stands — Developed to provide nourishment to mill-workers in Mumbai's burgeoning mills. Now they are found everywhere, particularly in the railway stations. This is a Mumbai specialty. In Vile Parle (West), try the one off S.V Road near Irla across from Goklibai School. Also try the one outside Grant Road Station and Churchgate Station.

Sandwich stands — Uniquely developed in Mumbai, you won't find anything like it anywhere else in India or the world.

Chinese food stalls — You'll find them at many places, but they are particularly concentrated near Dadar railway station. They all have a typical Indian twist added to it, which is why it is frequently called "Indian Chinese". Although it is great tasting, the hygiene of these places leaves a lot to be desired.

Bhurji — Either Egg bhurji or Paneer bhurji, a mash of eggs and chopped tomato, onion, chili, and lots of oil. Eaten on the side with some pav. Try the Maker Chamber area (near Crossroads 2, Nariman Point).

Tip: cheap and tasty food stalls are concentrated around the city's colleges.

One should only have the food that is cooked fresh in front of you. During the monsoons, it is advisable that all street food be avoided, due to the numerous flies which are always on the food.

UDUPI RESTAURANTS

"Udupi" restaurants (or "hotels") are everywhere. They bear the name of the town of Udupi in Karnataka, but do not be misled into thinking that they specialize in the cuisine of Udupi. They serve pretty much everything, and that is their specialty.

Usually strictly vegetarian, these restaurants were opened by migrants from the district of Dakshina Kannada in Karnataka (of which Udupi is a part), to satisfy the palates of other migrants from the district. Over time, they gained popularity as places to have South Indian food. As the tastes of their customers evolved, their menus too evolved, so much that now

you can find Mughlai, Indian Chinese, Bhelpuri, and other chaats in addition to South Indian stuff. Amazingly, some places serve imitations of pizzas, burgers, and sandwiches too!

They are fast food joints and sit-down restaurants combined. The reason to visit them is not to experience fine gourmet dining, but to have cheap, passably tasty and fairly hygienic food. There is no easy way to identify an Udupi restaurant — they are not a chain of restaurants and they may not have "Udupi" in their name, so you will have to ask.

Though present all over the city, they started in the Matunga area. Cafe Mysore is one of the oldest Udipi Restaurants in King's Circle (Maheshwari Udyan). Also one of the earlier established restaurants is New Sardar at lalbaug. They serve one of the best MISSALS in mumbai and their Garlic Dosas (this dosa is available only here and nowhere else in the world) have to be relished not eaten. Lot of interesting dishes are served here and a visit to this restaurant is a must. Address is very simple Sardar, Dr. B.A.Road, Lalabaug,Mumbai 400 033, Tel: 24700583, 24701773.

IRANI CAFES

Absolutely famous for "Chai" and "Maska-Pau"(bread and butter). Assorted snacks, like Kheema-na-Patice, samosas, mava-na-cakes, etc. are also very famous. The best dish which is always on the menu is Kheema Pav. One of the best places to eat is Cafe Military which is in the Fort area (near the Bombay Stock Exchange). Majority of their customers are upscale like lawyers, bankers, and stock brokers because of which the quality is good. In spite of that the prices are very low, average entree would cost around Rs. 40.

If you order a thali (translated as "plate"); you get a complete meal arranged on your plate, with a roti or chappati, rice, and many different varieties of curries and curd. Ordering a thali is a popular option when you are hungry and in a hurry as it is usually served blazingly fast. Most mid-level restaurants have a thali on the menu, at least during lunch hours. Occasionally, they are

"unlimited", which means that some of the items are all-you-can-eat. The waiters serve them at your table.

Of course, you find many varieties of them, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. There is the South Indian thali. The "North Indian" thali translates to Mughlai or Punjabi. Do try Gujarati or Rajasthani thalis if you can find them. They are sinfully filling and tasty. Rajdhani (At Crawford Market) serves up thalis in the Rajasthani style while Aram (near Mahim Church, Mahim) and Shree Thakker Bhojanalaya (off Kalbadevi Road) do filling and fabulous Gujarati thalis.

FAST FOOD CHAINS

Surprisingly, there is no fast-food chain in Mumbai serving Indian cuisine. But Western chains like McDonalds, Subway, Pizza hut, Dominos, etc. have many outlets all over the city. But if you are a weary westerner looking for the taste of the familiar, be warned that all of them have rather heavily Indianized their menus, so you will find the stuff there as exotic as you found Bambaiyya food. However, Barista, Cafe Coffee Day, and Smokin' Joe's are all Indian chains, although they don't serve Indian food. While Barista and Cafe Coffee Day, as there names suggest, serve coffee and pastries, Smokin' Joe's serves decent pizzas and is headquartered in Carmichael Rd, Mumbai.

Natural is a chain of ice cream stores that serves up tasty and unconventional flavours of ice creams. Try their tender coconut or the coffee walnut ice creams. Its main branch is in Juhu in the Western suburbs, but it has franchises at many places including Marine Drive, Bandra, Nepean sea road, etc. Naturals is also famous for its seasonal "Sitaphal" or Custard Apple Ice-cream.

Try the sumptuous creamy crepes and omelets at Crepe Station, Bandra. It’s owned by a famous Bollywood actor, Dino Morea.

What to eat?

Asking a local for suggestions is a fun way to try new things. Here are a few suggestions:

Vada Pav, the vada is a mashed potato patty. Pav is a kind of bread that has its roots in Mumbai. (The word comes from the Portugese word "pão", for bread). The potato patty is sandwiched in the bread. Liberal helpings of three kinds of chutneys (sauces) are also added to the sandwich to make a seriously tasty snack. It is widely available on the streets and most folks price it Rs. 4 a piece. If you feel uncomfortable with the hygiene of a particular stall, avoid it. The Jumbo Vada Pav outlets at almost all train stations in the city are hygienic and it’s not risky to have Vada Pav from there.

Pav bhaji — Part of the street food culture, this is mashed vegetables cooked in spices, topped with butter and served piping hot with pav.

Bhel puri and sev puri — A classic Mumbai concoction, bhel-puri (or bhel for short) comprises mostly of puffed rice and assorted spices with a few chutneys. You can specify whether you want it spicy or bland and the vendor will make it for you. It is quite tasty and again ought to be had off the streets to get the real flavor. Most people though, like to flock to Juhu beach to try this out.

Pani puri — for first timers, this can be seriously intriguing. The vendor hands you a plate. Next he takes a puri (it looks like a golf ball, but brown in color), makes a small hole in it, and dips the puri into two jars. These jars contain water — one tangy on a tamarind base, the other spicy on a mint base. He tops it off with some condiments and places the puri on your plate. You pick it with your hand and pop the whole thing into your mouth. The outcome is an explosion.

Indian-Chinese — Nothing like regular Chinese. For a typical Bambaiyya flavor, try the Chinese Bhelpuri!. Variations of world cuisine, such as Tandoori Chicken Pizzas or McAloo Tikki burgers.

If you happen to be in Mumbai in summer, try eating some Hapus (Alphonso) mangoes.

Mewad ice cream — If you happen to be in Mumbai, it is recommended you avoid ice creams from the famous and expensive parlors and try out the cheap Mewad ice cream stalls. They are a lovely treat at their price and provide a lot of options. The venders are available everywhere across the streets, but avoid ones which appear unhygienic.

Natural ice cream — The Mumbaikar's answer to Gelato with flavors like chikkoo and mango to get you in the right Indian mood. Chemical free, organic, and delicious.

DABBAWALAS

The food culture in Mumbai can never be complete without mentioning the “Dabbawalas”. Dabbawala literally translates to "guy with box"; in this case the box is tiffin full of food. In India, although fast food is popular, Indians always crave home cooked Indian food and often choose it over street food or McDonald's. Hectic working schedules make this practically impossible if you don't have someone cooking for you every morning. Even if you do, the food is cold by lunch time and it doesn't taste the same when reheated.

The joy of getting hot, home cooked food delivered to you like you've specified, at exactly the time you

want, is priceless. Mumbai's dabbawalas make it happen for a fee as little as Rs.250 a month. The food is collected either from homes or from a catering service, then taken to a point where they are color-sorted (the guys are generally illiterate), grouped according to location, and then delivered by train.

More than 200,000 lunches are delivered by about 5000 dabbawalas everyday with an amazing accuracy of menu and time; a recent survey says that they only make one mistake in every 6,000,000 deliveries. There is no day off for the dabbawalas, they have never gone on strike and even harsh weather conditions -- especially monsoon season -- have never stopped them from doing their job well.

What has been awed about the dabbawalas is how they function so accurately, without the use of any modern technology -- only recently they have begun accepting orders via SMS. The success of their system has called much attention from business schools as well as tourists and now they have a "Day with the Dabbawalas" itinerary where you can spend a day in Mumbai helping them out -- something Richard Branson did on one of

his visits to India. They have been in business for 125 years and it's one of the systems that truly represent how efficient an Indian city can be, if it wants to.

FASHION

“Every generation laughs at the old fashions, but follows religiously the new.”

Mumbai is the centre of the Indian clothing trade and caters for all tastes and budgets. ‘Fashion Street’, on M Gandhi Road between Cross Maidan and Azad Maidan, is a row of market stalls where some very good bargains can be found. At the other end of the spectrum, Mumbai is also home to a number of tailors who will make clothes quickly at a reasonable cost. Mumbai is very famous for its clothing/Readymades. People used to come over there and do heavy shopping from various markets like Khar Road, Manish market, Heera Panna and all these markets are famous for Ready made-ups and one can also do heavy bargaining while doing purchase from particularly these markets.

Mumbai is a hub of ready made garments in India. Not only the tourist and local people do the shopping, traders/wholesalers of clothes come over there from different parts of the country to purchase fabric/Garments in bulk as they can get all these items in very competitive prices.Readymade garments are one of Mumbai's chief exports - and the surplus lands up at Fashion Street, a huddle of little shops on Mahatma Gandhi Road. They cost only a fraction of the price in foreign stores however, and are grabbed by fashion conscious collegians fresh off the rack. Haggling, of course is half the fun of buying. Begin at half the quoted price and work your way gradually upwards, and then follow though with a thorough appraisal of the goods: much of the stuff here is rejected by quality conscious importers and likely to have a missing button or crooked collar. But by and large the clothes are of good quality, trendy, and probably the cheapest anywhere in the world.

Mumbai has been India's major fashion hub that has the country looking forward to style itself. Bombay is the hot seat of Bollywood that churns out Hindi movies, which influence the fashion trends emulated by the youth all over the country.

High in hot couture Mumbai has been the trendsetter in fashion. There are outlets, which have all the latest fads of the globe. All the major brands are available in its chic and suave malls and retail clothing chains. Apart from niche attire brand outlets, Mumbai offers a footloose way of marketing for clothes. Places like Fashion Street near Churchgate station is undoubtedly the most famous spot for both Mumbaikars as well as the tourists. Here bargaining is a culture and if you are a skilled bargainer, you could get good things cheap.

With mostly a humid weather, Mumbai is more prone to informal clothes with dash of peppy colors on the move. However, the office goers have all the dandy and formal clothes to flash. Mumbai streets in the evening are spangled with beautiful petite women in some of the most hip and hot outfits wearing the contemporary trends at the best.

Undoubtedly one of the most charming places in Mumbai, Colaba Causeway could proudly be termed the `Culture Square' of Mumbai. The look and mood are reflective of its cosmopolitan feel; a classic example of the clichéd `East meets West' — or rather Mumbai-meets-Bombay. Shopping or simply browsing through the Causeway in the evening is a pleasure since the area is a delightful mosaic of colors at play under bright yellow lights. An assorted mix of people throngs the Causeway footpaths, exploring the possibility of a good deal.

Mumbai also has a very big fashion week known as the “Lakme Fashion Week” where all the famous fashion designers from all over India & some from outside come to showcase their talents. All the who’s who of Mumbai attends the fashion show & its one of the major talking points with extensive coverage by the media.

PEOPLE

“Individually, we are one drop. Together, we are an ocean.”

Mumbaikar is the term used for the inhabitants of Mumbai. Similar to the people in other parts of India, Mumbaikars are lively people, who live life to its fullest. The city is motley of unrelated homo-sapiens clubbed together under the compulsion of yet undetermined factors. The major clans of this chaos include;

MAHARASHTRIANS: This clan can be recognized by their typical round faces, matching to their bulging tummies, and pathetic sense of dressing. Females are no better. Exceptions are far and few. These people are artificially brave and never ever take an independent stand on anything under any circumstances; therefore their leaders are the

happy lot. However, these people are quite trustworthy because of their simple nature. These people can be found in all parts of Mumbai and outskirts. GUJRATIS / JAIN CLAN: These people are lovingly hateful. These people have very clear fundas about life; they value their community above everybody else, are artificially inclined to the worship of God, are selectively fashionable, are extremely cunning, and boast of some exceptionally beautiful females. These people can also be found throughout Mumbai, but generally live in clusters. Some of the best posh areas in Mumbai are controlled by these people.

PUNJABIS: These people are the best of the lot. They are one of the most genuine people. Never indulge in any unwanted altercations, are least hypocritical, don’t lie unnecessarily, and have beautiful females. These people though clever can be trusted, but fools beware. They have a tendency to indulge in fights, but in Mumbai instances of such eventualities have been few. They are mostly located in western suburbs, but have dispersed in different areas with time.

MARWARIS: These people are found in abundance in India and abroad, except in their own land i.e. Rajasthan. Along with Gujaratis, and Punjabis, they control major portion of trade in Mumbai. These people can be described as cunningly stupid, and often get aggressive with or without reason. SOUTH INDIANS:

These people are also found in great number in Mumbai, especially located in Central Mumbai. They have dark faces. Are one of the most literate clans.

CHRISTIANS: These people are some of the most liberal people in Mumbai. These people have also managed to corner some of the most lucrative properties in Mumbai, but like their furniture, these are also in dilapidated state. A well to do Catholic house can be characterized by a fat old lady, followed by at least three bulldozer size dogs. PARSIS: This clan has always remained, and will remain, an enigma. They don’t let outsiders in, are extremely conservative. These people are extremely trustworthy under normal circumstances. But, since they are pretty timid, they should not be trusted for important occasions. UP BIHAR CLAN: These are the fastest growing population in Mumbai. These people are essentially found in dormitories of Mumbai i.e. areas starting Mira Road to Vasai. These people are characterized by filthy living habits, extremely poor dressing, unnecessarily haughty attitude, and genuine stupidity. For time immemorial, this clan has been tortured the most, and so is the case in Mumbai, and yet people want them out from Mumbai for unknown reason.

ART & CRAFTS

“No great artist ever sees things as they really are.  If he did, he would cease to be an artist.”

Mumbai is the epicenter of Art and Craft in India. People are fond of contemporary art and crafts. The masterpieces are well represented in both government funded art spaces and private commercial galleries. The government funded art galleries include The Jehangir Art Gallery and The National Gallery of Modern Art. Built in 1833, the Asiatic Society of Bombay is the oldest public library in the city.

Mumbai is also famous for its ornamental furniture like book-stands, work-boxes, blotting- cases, ubiquitous glove, boxes and card cases, which go by the name of “Bombay boxes”. The Copper Bazaar in Bombay is equally famous for copper and bronze pots and utensils. Craftsmen still make traditional utensils made of bronze and copper.

Art Galleries in Mumbai

Aakar Art Gallery

Bhulabhai Desai Road, Mumbai 400026. (Phone: 367-9778)

Chavan Centre

Chemould Art Gallery

Kala Ghoda, Mumbai 400001. (Phone: 284-4356, 283-3640)

Coomaraswamy Hall

Prince of Wales Museum, Kala Ghoda, Mumbai 400001. (Phone: 284-4484)

Cymroza Art Gallery

72 Bhulabhai Desai Road, Mumbai 400026. (Phone: 367-1755)

Jehangir Art Gallery

Kala Ghoda, Mumbai 400001. (Phone: 203-8473) (Includes the Chemould and Terrace Art Galleries).

Kamalnayan Bajaj Art Gallery

Bajaj Bhavan Ground Floor, Jamnalal Bajaj Marg, 226, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400021 Phone: 2202-3626, 2284-2110 x 396, 9820019264

Leela Art Emporium

HTL Oberoi Tower, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400021. (Phone: 202-4602)

Mascot Art Gallery

Chowpatty Terrace Building, Mumbai 400007. (Phone: 361-3974)

Piramal Art Gallery

NCPA, Nariman Point, Mumbai 400021. (Phone: 202-9483)

Pundole Art Gallery

Hutatma Chowk, Mumbai 400001. (Phone: 284-1837)

Sakshi Gallery

Sree Ram Mills Compound, G.K. Marg, Lower Parel, Mumbai 400013. (Phone: 491-0728, 491-0729,Fax: 491-0730)

Taj Art Gallery

Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai 400005. (Phone: 202-3366)

CINEMAS

BOLLYWOOD

Bollywood is the informal term popularly used for the Mumbai-based Hindi-language film industry in India. The term is often incorrectly used to refer to the whole of Indian cinema; it is only a part of the Indian film industry. Bollywood is the largest film producer in India and one of the largest in the world.

The name is a portmanteau of Bombay and Hollywood, the center of the American film industry. However, unlike Hollywood, Bollywood does not exist as a real physical place. Though some deplore the name, arguing that it makes the industry look like a poor cousin to Hollywood, it seems likely to persist and now has its own entry in the Oxford English Dictionary.

Bollywood is commonly referred to as Hindi cinema, even though "Hindustani", understood as the

colloquial base common to both Hindi and Urdu, might be more accurate. There has been a growing presence of Indian English in dialogue and songs as well. It is not uncommon to see films that feature dialogue with English words and phrases, even whole sentences. There is a growing number of films made entirely in English.

MARATHI CINEMASMarathi cinema (मरा�ठी� चि�त्रपट) is one of the oldest in regional Indian films industry. The first Marathi talkie film "Ayodhyecha Raja" (produced by Prabhat Films) was released in 1932, just one year after "Alam Ara" the first Indian (Hindi) talkie film. Marathi cinema has grown in recent years -the industry is based in Mumbai, India.

FESTIVALS

Mumbai has traditional, religious, state and national festivals organized and celebrated in the city, depicting one or more aspects of human life, relationships or ancient traditions. Some of the popular festivals are briefed below.

Banganga (Jan)

The Banganga Festival is a musical extravaganza organized by the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation in January at the atmospheric Banganga tank at Walkeshwar. Top artistes from around the country perform live classical music concerts and cultural enthusiasts attend the festival and feast the soul as well as the mind.

Elephanta Festival (18-19 Feb)

The Elephanta Island is the site of the magnificent Elephanta caves, containing beautiful carvings, sculptures, and a temple to the Hindu God, Lord Shiva. These caves are located at a distance of 11-km from Mumbai.

In February Elephanta Island comes to fervor as the site of the Elephanta Festival. Organized by MTDC, every year, renowned dancers and musicians perform outside the caves, beneath a star-studded sky, to a select and appreciative audience. Special launch services and catering arrangements are provided for visitors.

Gudhi Padava (Mar-Apr)

Gudhi Padava is the Maharashtran New Year's Day celebrated on the first day of Chaitra(Mar-Apr). This day marks the start of the Hindu solar year. It is a day of great festivity and rejoicing. People get up early and clean their houses, decorating them with intricate rangoli designs. Bamboo staffs (gudhi) decorated with silk cloths and topped with a brass goblet or kalash are erected. These are supposed to drive away evil from the houses.

Nariyal Poornima (Aug)

Nariel Purnima or coconut day in August marks the end of the monsoons and is celebrated by Mumbai's fisher folk. Boats are painted, little oil lamps lit and set afloat amidst the waves and carried in the boats, and coconut are broken against their bows as an offering to the Sea God and the seas are set afloat with garlands of flowers as the new fishing season begins.

Raksha Bandhan (Aug)On this day, sisters tie rakhi on the wrists of their brothers to protect them against evil influences. This is also the day set apart for Brahmins to change their sacred thread they wear.

Parsi New Year (Aug-Sep)

Pateti in August is the Parsee New Year, significant because it was on this day that the Shahenshahi Zoroastrian community landed in India while migrating from Persia. The Parsees celebrate at the fire temple, and the community bonds are strengthened through feasts and the meeting of friends and relatives.

Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug-Sep)

Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated in the month of Aug. - Sep., as the birth anniversary of Ganesha, the Hindu god of wisdom. The festival is so popular in Mumbai and the preparations begin months ahead. Images of Ganesha are installed and elaborate arrangements are made for lighting and decoration and celebrations are held for 7-10 days. The Chaturthi is the last day dedicated to the elephant-headed god, and thousands of processions converge on the beaches of Mumbai carrying the idols of Ganesha, to be immersed in the sea. This immersion is accompanied by drumbeats, devotional songs and dancing and marks the end of the festival.

Bandra Feast (Sep)

The feast day of Virgin Mary is celebrated in Bombay for a week beginning on a Sunday closest to the birthday of the Virgin Mary (Sep 8). The feast is held at the Basillica of Mount Mary in Bandra. A fair is held with huge Ferris wheels, amusements and rides, bands and shows. The devout trudges up the stairs of the church to light their candles.

Diwali (Oct-Nov)

Diwali, celebrated on the 13th day of the month of Ashwin (Oct-Nov), is a festival of lights symbolizing the victory of righteousness and the lifting of spiritual darkness. Twinkling oil lamps or diyas light up every home and firework displays are common all across the country. The goddess Lakshmi who is the symbol of wealth and prosperity, is also worshipped on this day. This festive occasion also marks the beginning of the Hindu New Year. Crackers and fireworks illuminate the sky and people pray for a prosperous coming year.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

“Knowledge is in the end based on acknowledgement.”

We’d like to thank our

professor for having

given us the

opportunity to analyze Bombay’s unique culture. We’d also like to thank the internet and the shiny happy people of Bombay.