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Supplies & Resources
SUPPLIES• Cardboard grid to protect table• Permanent markers in different colors• Micro/ extra-fine tip permanent felt pen (Sharpie
or other), in black and red• Old business cards, index cards or card stock • Highlighter • Paper scissors• Pattern weights • Clear grading ruler• French curve• Kraft paper
• Kathleen uses Rainbow brand Colored Kraft Duo-Finish in light blue; available at teacher and classroom supply stores or online at mpmschoolsupplies.com
GLOSSARY OF TERMSGrade (noun) The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size, e.g., 2" be-
tween size 12 and 14; or the incremental growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.
Grade (verb) To proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern.
Total or overall grade The total increase or decrease in circumference between each size. For exam-ple, 2" between size 12 and 14.
Allocated grade The portion of the total grade to be applied to one pattern piece.
Incremental grade The growth/decrease at each cardinal point on a pattern piece.
Nest or graded nest A set of graded pattern pieces stacked, illustrating the difference in each size. You will also see graded nests in multi-size patterns.
Cardinal points The places on a pattern piece where we will insert or take away room to in-crease/decrease its size.
Grade rule library Also called Grade Rule Table or Chart; a list of cardinal points along with their grade increments for each pattern piece.
Base size Also called the master pattern; the original (usually middle) pattern size that is graded up and down to create the full size range
Production pattern A master pattern which has been graded for all of its sizes.
True up or truing Checking the graded pattern pieces to ensure they fit accurately together at their connecting seams.
Size run The sizes in a specific style, such as 4, 6, 8, 10, 12
Machine grading Mechanically moving a pattern to grade. When this method is used, the pattern is clamped into the grading machine and a knob is turned to set the grading increment.
Computer grading The base pattern is first digitized, then grade rules are applied using software to create the new sizes.
Manual/hand grading Grading on paper using ruler and pencil.
Cut and spread grading Manually grading by cutting the pattern apart along cardinal points, then either spreading to grade up or overlapping to grade down.
Pattern shifting Grading the pattern by shifting it back and forth, up and down along an X and Y axis.