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CR 65 2012 Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011
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CR 65 2012

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Page 1: CR 65 2012

CR 65 2012

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Page 2: CR 65 2012

HUSQVARNA MOTORCYCLES S.R.L. - Varese disclaims all liabilities for any errors or omissions in this manual and reserves the right to make changes to reflect ongoing product development. Illustrations in the ma-nual may differ from actual components. No reproduction in full or in part without written authorisation.1st Edition (09-2011)

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CR 65 2012

H02017

1

CR 65 : ZKHCR6530CV000001

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

FOREWORD, TABLE OF CONTENTS

1st Edition (09-2011)Printed in Italy

MODELS COVERED (from serial number onwards)

Copyright byHUSQVARNA MOTORCYCLES S.R.L.BMW GroupTechnical ServiceVia Nino Bixio, 821024(Varese) - Italytel. ++39 0332 75.61.11tel. ++39 0332 756 558www.husqvarna-motorcycles.com

Workshop Manual

1. Chassis serial number

CR 65 / 2012

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CR 65 2012

FOREWORD, TABLE OF CONTENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

ForewordThis publication is designed for use by HUSQVARNA Service Centres to assist authorised personnel in the maintenance and repair of the models covered in this manual. The technical information provided in this manual is a critical comple-ment to operator training and operators should become thoroughly familiar with it.For ease of understanding, diagrams and photographs are provided next to the text.Notes with special significance are identified as follows throughout the manual:

Accident-prevention rules for operator and persons working nearby.

Damage to vehicle and/or its components may result from non-compliance with relevant instructions.

Additional information concerning the operation covered in the text.

Useful tipsTo prevent problems and ensure effective service work, observe the following HUSQVARNA recommendations:– before repair, evaluate the customer's description of the problem and ask the appropriate questions to clearly identify

problem symptoms;– diagnose the problem and identify the causes clearly. This manual provides basic background information that must

be supplemented with the operator's expertise and specific training available through HUSQVARNA held at regular periods;

– plan ahead before starting work: gather any spare parts and tools to avoid unnecessary delays;– avoid unnecessary disassembly work to get to the part that needs repairing. Always read the relevant instructions and follow the disassembly sequence outlined in this manual.

Recommended shop practices1 Always replace gaskets, sealing rings and split pins with new ones.2 When loosening or tightening nuts or bolts, always begin with the bigger ones or from the centre. Tighten to the speci-

fied torque and follow a cross pattern.3 Always mark any parts or positions that might be confused upon assembly.4 Use genuine HUSQVARNA parts and the recommended lubricant brands.5 Use special tools where specified.6 Technical Bulletins might contain more up-to-date setting data and procedures than this manual. Be sure to read

them.

IMPORTANT: Where not specified, reassembled components must be tightened to the proper torque as indicated in the tables provided in section "X".

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FOREWORD, TABLE OF CONTENTS

Table of ContentsTitle SectionForeword, Table of Contents ............................................................................... aImportant Notices ................................................................................................ bGeneral Information .............................................................................................AMaintenance ........................................................................................................BTroubleshooting .................................................................................................. CSettings and Adjustments ................................................................................... DGeneral Procedures ............................................................................................EEngine Disassembly ............................................................................................FEngine Overhaul ................................................................................................. GEngine Reassembly............................................................................................ HFront Suspension ................................................................................................. IRear Suspension ................................................................................................. JBrakes ................................................................................................................. LElectrical System ................................................................................................MEngine Cooling ................................................................................................... NHydraulically Controlled Clutch............................................................................PFuel supply ..........................................................................................................SSpecial Tools ......................................................................................................WTightening Torque Figures ...................................................................................XChassis and Wheels ............................................................................................Y

NOTES

Unless otherwise specified, data and specifications apply to all models.

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CR 65 2012

b

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

IMPORTANT NOTICES

Section

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CR 65 2012

IMPORTANT NOTICES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

1) CR models are RACING motorcycles and are guaranteed to be free from operating defects; a scheduled maintenance chart for racing use is provided in Section B.

* In order to maintain the vehicle’s “Guarantee of Functionality”, the client must follow the maintenance programme indicated in Section B by having the required maintenance inspections carried out at authorised HUSQVARNA dealers. The Customer bears all part replacement and labour costs needed to respect the maintenance schedule. In case of motorcycle hire the warranty becomes NULL and VOID.

NotesLeft and right side is determined when seated on motorcycle.

Z: number of teeth

A: AustriaAUS: AustraliaB: BelgiumBR: BrazilCDN: CanadaCH: SwitzerlandD: GermanyE: SpainF: FranceFIN: FinlandGB: Great BritainI: ItalyJ: JapanUSA: United States of America

Unless otherwise specified, data and instructions apply to all market variants.

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CR 65 2012

A

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

GENERAL INFORMATION

Section

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A.2

CR 65 2012

GENERAL INFORMATION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Engine ..........................................................................................................A.3Fuel system ..................................................................................................A.3Lubrication ....................................................................................................A.3Cooling .........................................................................................................A.3Ignition system..............................................................................................A.3Kick ..............................................................................................................A.3Primary drive ................................................................................................A.3Gearbox ........................................................................................................A.3Secondary drive............................................................................................A.3Drive chain....................................................................................................A.3Chassis .........................................................................................................A.3Suspension ...................................................................................................A.3Brakes ..........................................................................................................A.4Wheels..........................................................................................................A.4Tyres .............................................................................................................A.4Overall dimensions - Weight .........................................................................A.4Electrical components location .....................................................................A.5Capacities .....................................................................................................A.5

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CR 65 2012

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

GENERAL INFORMATION

EngineSingle cylinder, 2 strokeBore .........................................................................................................45 mmStroke ...................................................................................................40.8 mmDisplacement .................................................................................. 64.89 cu.cmCompression ratio ......................................................................................9.1:1

Fuel systemCarburettor type MIKUNI.........TM24Maximum jet .................................................................................................240Minimum jet ....................................................................................................40

LubricationEngine .............................................. fuel-oil mixture at 3% during running-in, at 2% after running-in.Primary drive/gearbox with oil inside the crankcase

CoolingLiquid-cooling with double radiator

Ignition systemSpark plug type..........................................................................NGK BR8 ECMSpark plug electrode gap........................................................................0.6 mm

Kick .............................................................................................................start

Primary driveDrive pinion gear ........................................................................................ Z 23Sprocket .................................................................................................... Z 75Transmission ratio ......................................................................................3.26

GearboxType ............................................................................ constant mesh gear typeTransmission ratio1st gear...................................................................................... 2.846 (z 37/13)2nd gear .................................................................................... 2.125 (z 34/16)3rd gear ..................................................................................... 1.722 (z 31/18)4th gear ..................................................................................... 1.428 (z 30/21)5th gear ..................................................................................... 1.217 (z 28/23)6th gear ..................................................................................... 1.083 (z 26/24)

Secondary driveTransmission sprocket ............................................................................... Z 14Rear sprocket ............................................................................................. Z 48Transmission ratio ......................................................................................3.43

Drive chainMake and type ..............................................................“D.I.D.” 420 - 1/2” x 1/4”

ChassisType single frame, in steel tubes with rectangular and oval section; rear chassis in squared sectioned tubes in light alloy.

SuspensionFrontType ........................................upside-down telescopic fork with advanced axle (damping rebound and compression adjustment); Tubes ................................................................................................... ø 35 mmWheel travel...........................................................................................220 mm

RearType .................................... progressive “Soft Damp” with hydraulic monoshock(spring preload, rebound and compression damping adjustment)Wheel travel...........................................................................................270 mm

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CR 65 2012

1130 mm (44.49 inch)

1640 mm (64.57 inch)

230 mm (9.06 inch)243 mm (9.57 inch)

750

mm

(29,

53 in

ch)

280

mm

(11.

02 in

ch)

1015

mm

(39.

96 in

ch)

*770 mm (30.31 inch)

GENERAL INFORMATION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

BrakesFrontType ....................................................... with fixed disc “Wave” type Ø 200 mmhydraulic control and four piston fixed calliper.

RearType ....................................................... with fixed disc “Wave” type Ø 165 mmwith hydraulic control and two piston fixed calliper.

WheelsRimsFront .................................................................................. in light alloy: 1.6x14”Rear ................................................................................... in light alloy: 1.6x12”

TyresFront ........................................ PIRELLI SCORPION MX60/100 14” 29M NHSRear ..........................................PIRELLI SCORPION MX80/100 12” 50M NHS

Cold tyre pressureFront ....................................................................................................... 0.8 barRear ........................................................................................................ 0.8 bar

Overall dimensions - Weight

Kerb weight, without fuel ........................................................ 56.8 kg (125.2 lb)*: max. widthTrail ............................................................................................65 mm (2.56 in)Steering tube rake ......................................................................................25.6°

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

GENERAL INFORMATION

Electrical component locationThe ignition system includes the following elements:- Generator on the inner side of L.H. crankcase half cover;- Electronic ignition coil on frame RH side;- Spark plug on cylinder head;

Capacities Type QuantityFuel tank oil-fuel mixture at 3% for running-in, then at 2% 3.5 litres Oil for mixture CASTROL XR77 Crankcase oil CASTROL POWER RACING 10W-50 500 cc (oil change)

Front fork oil CASTROL SYNTHETIC FORK OIL - 5W

Cooling system fluid CASTROL MOTORCYCLE COOLANT 0.6 litresFront brake fluid CASTROL RESPONSE SUPER (DOT 4)Rear brake fluid CASTROL RESPONSE SUPER (DOT 4)Clutch fluid MINERAL OIL SAE 10 FOR HYDRAULIC CIRCUITSDrive chain lubrication CASTROL CHAIN LUBE RACINGGrease lubrication CASTROL LM GREASE 2Electric contact protection CASTROL METAL PARTS CLEANERFillers for radiator AREXONS LIQUID FILLER Air filter oil CASTROL “Foam air filter oil”Air filter cleaner CASTROL “Foam air filter cleaner”

IMPORTANT - Do not add any additives to fuel or lubricants

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B.1

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B

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

MAINTENANCE

Section

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B.2

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MAINTENANCE

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

ENGINE

Afte

r the

fir

st 5

hou

rs

Ever

y 20

ho

urs

Ever

y 40

ho

urs

Onc

e a

year

Bef

ore

the

race

Transmission oil level check ● ●Transmission oil change ● ●

Spark plug check and/or replacement, electrode gap adjustment ●

Carburettor fastening on intake manifold check ●

Check of flange, intake manifold, and filter bellow condition and seal check ● ●

Idle adjustment (warm engine) ●

Breather pipes conditions and position (without bends) check ●

Reed valve reed check ● ● ●

Clutch plates wear check ● ●

Clutch hub screw tightening check ●

Clutch spring length check ● ●

Cooling system leakage check ●

Cylinder and piston wear check ● ●

Drive shaft axes misalignment check ● ●

Connecting rod big end bearing radial clearance check ●

Connecting rod small end bearing radial clearance check ●

Main bearing wear check ●

Crankshaft and connecting rod big end bearing replacement ●

Gearbox wear check (selector drum and bearings included) ●

Carburettor cleaning and adjustment ●

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

MAINTENANCE

CHASSIS

Afte

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st 5

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rs

Ever

y 20

ho

urs

Onc

e a

year

Bef

ore

the

race

Fork complete maintenance * ●Shock absorber maintenance * ●

Swinging arm support and bearing cleaning and greasing * ●

Steering bearings and relevant sealing elements cleaning and greasing * ●

Brake/clutch fluid replacement * ●

Brake level, pad thickness, brake disc check ● ●

Brake pipe status check ● ●

Front lever and brake pedal adjustment and operation check ● ● ●

Braking system screw tightening check ● ● ●

Exhaust system check ● ●

Control cable lubrication and free sliding check ● ● ●

Air filter and filter box cleaning ● ● ●

Shock absorber and fork operation check ● ●

Swinging arm support check ● ●

Steering bearing check and/or adjustment ● ● ●

Screw tightening check ● ●

Fork dust seal removal and cleaning ● ●

Rim runout and spoke tension check ● ● ●

Tyre pressure and condition check ● ●

Chain, master link, sprockets wear check ● ● ●

Chain lubrication ● ● ●

Wheel bearing clearance check ● ● ●

* Operations and actions to be carried out according to the use conditions.

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MAINTENANCE

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

CHECKS

Bef

ore

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yus

e

Afte

r eve

rycl

eani

ng

Befo

re e

very

ra

ce

Onc

ea

year

Transmission oil level check ●Coolant level check ●

Brake fluid level check ●

Brake shoe wear check ●

Brake operation check ● ●

Control cable adjustment and lubrication ●

Chain cleaning, lubrication and tension check ● ● ●

Air filter and filter box cleaning ● ● ●

Tyre pressure and wear check ●

Screw, nut and tie correct tightening check ● ●

Fuel pipe status check ●

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C.1

CR 65 2012

C

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

TROUBLESHOOTING

Section

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C.2

CR 65 2012

TROUBLESHOOTING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

ENGINE

Trouble Cause Remedy

Engine does not start or Insufficient compressionit hardly starts 1. Piston seizure Replace 2. Connecting rod small or big end seized Replace 3. Worn piston rings Replace 4. Worn cylinder Replace 5. Cylinder head loosely tightened Tighten 6. Head gasket leaking Replace 7. Spark plug loose Tighten Weak or no spark 1. Spark plug faulty Replace 2. Fouled or wet spark plug Clean or dry 3. Spark plug electrode gap too wide Adjust 4. Ignition coil faulty Replace 5. High-tension cables open circuit or shorted Check

The carburettor is not receiving fuel 1. Tank cap breather clogged Clean 2. Fuel cock clogged Clean 3. Fuel feed pipe clogged Clean 4. Floatervalveorfloatersfaulty Replace 5. Linkageisblockingfloatervalve Release

Carburettor floods 1. High fuel level in bowl Adjust 2. Floatervalveorfloaterswornorstuck open Replace or release

The engine stops 1. Dirty spark plug Cleaneasily 2. Carburettor jets clogged Clean 3. Low idle Adjust

Engine is noisy Noise seems to come from piston 1. Too much piston-to-cylinder clearance Replace 2. Worn piston rings or piston grooves Replace 3. Too much carbon build-up in combustion chamber or on piston crown Clean

Noise seems to come from crankshaft 1. Worn main bearings Replace 2. Connecting rod big end has too much side clearanceorendfloat Replace 3. Crankshaft gear damaged Replace 4. Crankshaft locknut loose Tighten

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TROUBLESHOOTING

Trouble Cause Remedy

The noise seems to come 1. Chain stretched or incorrectly adjusted Replace or adjustfrom the secondary 2. Worn transmission sprockets Replacetransmission chain

The clutch slides 1. Weak clutch springs Replace 2. Worn clutch plates Replace

The clutch is tight 1. Non uniform spring load Replace 2. Bent clutch plates Replace

The gears cannot be inserted 1. Bent or seized gearbox forks Replace 2. Worn gear ratchets Replace 3. Damaged shifter fork shafts Replace

Gear shift pedal does not return in position 1. Weak or broken selector return spring Replace 2. Worn shifter forks Replace

The gears are disengaged 1. Worn sliding gear engagements Replace 2. Worn gear grooves Replace 3. Worn dog slots in gears Replace 4. Worn selector shaft splines Replace 5. Damaged shifter fork shafts Replace

Engine power lack 1. Dirtyairfilter Clean 2. Carburettor main jet clogged or Wrong size Clean or replace 3. Poor fuel quality Replace 4. Intake coupling loose Tighten 5. Spark plug electrode gap too wide Adjust 6. Insufficientcompression Identifycause

The engine overheats 1. Dirty combustion chamber and/or piston crown with carbon deposits Clean 2. Insufficientoilincrankcaseoruseof wrong oil Top up or change 3. Obstructionsblockingairflowonradiator Clean 4. Cylinder head gasket leaking Replace 5. Clutch slips Adjust

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C.4

CR 65 2012

TROUBLESHOOTING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

CHASSIS

Trouble Cause RemedyThe handlebar is hard to turn 1. Tyrepressureinsufficient Inflate 2. Bearing adjuster ring nut or steering stem nut overtightened Adjust 3. Bent steering stem Replace bottom yoke 4. Worn or seized steering bearings Replace

The handlebar vibrates 1. Bent fork legs Replace 2. Bent front wheel axle Replace 3. Bent/broken chassis Replace 4. Bent front wheel rim Replace 5. Worn front wheel bearings Replace

Shock absorption is 1. Exceeding oil quantity in fork legs Drain the exceeding oiltoo hard 2. Fork oil viscosity too high Change 3. Overinflatedtyres Deflate 4. Improperly set rear shock absorber Adjust

Shock absorption is 1. Insufficientoilquantityinforklegs Topuptoo soft 2. Fork oil viscosity too low Change 3. Weak fork springs Replace 4. Weak rear shock absorber spring Replace 5. Improperly set rear shock absorber Adjust

Wheel (front and 1. Bent wheel rim Replacerear) vibrates 2. Worn wheel hub bearings Replace 3. Incorrect spoke tension Adjust 4. Wheel axle nut loose Tighten 5. Worn rear swinging arm bearings Replace 6. Improperly adjusted chain tensioners Adjust 7. Improperly balanced wheel Balance

Rear suspension is 1. Shock absorber worn ball joints Replacenoisy 2. Faulty shock absorber Replace

Insufficient braking 1. Air presence in braking system circuit Bleed(front and rear) 2. Insufficientfluidintank Topup 3. Worn brake pad and/or disc Replace 4. Damaged disc Replace 5. Improperly adjusted brake pedal Adjust 6. Waterinbrakesystem Changefluid

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C.5

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

TROUBLESHOOTING

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (see also Section M)

Trouble Cause Remedy

The spark plug gets dirty 1. Mixture too rich Adjust carburettoreasily 2. Dirtyairfilter Clean 3. Worn piston rings Replace 4. Worn piston or cylinder liner Replace 5. Spark plug featuring a too high heat rating Replace with recommended

spark plug

Spark plug electrodes 1. Mixture too lean Adjust carburettoroverheat 2. Spark plug electrode gap too close Adjust 3. Spark plug featuring a too low heat rating Replace with recommended

spark plug

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D.1

CR 65 2012

D

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Section

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D.2

CR 65 2012

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Saddle removal.............................................................................................D.4Tank removal ................................................................................................D.4Remove the chain/sprocket cover protection casing ....................................D.5Throttle cable adjustment .............................................................................D.5Carburettor adjustment .................................................................................D.6Idle adjustment .............................................................................................D.6Front brake fluid level check ........................................................................D.6Clutch oil level check ....................................................................................D.7Front brake lever adjustment ........................................................................D.8Lever distance adjustment............................................................................D.8Clutch distance adjustment ..........................................................................D.8Rear brake pedal position adjustment .........................................................D.9Rear brake pedal free play adjustment ........................................................D.9Rear brake fluid level check .......................................................................D.10Oil level check ............................................................................................D.11Oil replacement ..........................................................................................D.11Coolant level check ....................................................................................D.12Coolant replacement ..................................................................................D.12Air filter cleaning and check .......................................................................D.13Chain adjustment .......................................................................................D.14Chain lubrication .........................................................................................D.14Removal and cleaning ................................................................................D.14Chain cleaning ............................................................................................D.14Chain lubrication .........................................................................................D.14Fork adjustment .........................................................................................D.15Rebound damping adjustment (RH fork leg) ..............................................D.15Compression damping adjustment (LH fork leg) ........................................D.15Fork position adjustment ............................................................................D.16Rear shock absorber adjustment................................................................D.16Shock absorber spring preload adjustment ................................................D.17Shock absorber hydraulic damping adjustment..........................................D.18Steering bearing clearance adjustment ......................................................D.19Handlebar position change .........................................................................D.19Tank supply and breather pipe check .........................................................D.21Exhaust system check ................................................................................D.21Sound deadening material replacement .....................................................D.22

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D.3

CR 65 2012

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

CR 65

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D.4

CR 65 2012

1

2

2

3 4

7

8

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Saddle removalTurn the rear pin (1) counterclockwise.Release the saddle (2) from the front retaining screw pin.

Tank removalRemove the saddle as described in the relevant paragraph.Close the fuel cock (2) and loosen the clamp (3) on the hose running to the carburettor. Detach hose (4) from carburettor making sure to drain any fuel in the hose into a container.

Remove the side panels as described in section E.

Slide the breather hose (7) out of the steering tube.Remove the retaining screw (8) and then the tank (9).

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D.5

CR 65 2012

3

4 1

2

2

1

4

3

9

2 mm

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Remove the chain/sprocket cover protection casingCut the ties (1) and remove the casing (2).Loosen the 3 screws (3) that fasten the sprocket cover to the LH casing (4) and remove the protection.

Throttle cable adjustmentTo check the correct adjustment of the throttle control cable, operate as fol-lows:- Turn throttle control twistgrip (1) and make sure it has about 2 mm free

play;

- If not so, move the rubber protection (2), loosen the ring nut (3) and work the adjuster screw (4) (loosen to decrease play or tighten to increase it);

- After the adjustment lock the ring nut (3) and fit the rubber protection (2) again.

After the adjustment, check for no rpm increase when turning the han-dlebar to the left and to the right with engine running at idle; if this is the case, carry out the adjustment again.

Operation with damaged throttle cable could result in an unsafe riding condition.

Exhaust gas contains poisonous carbon monoxide. Never run the engine indoors.

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D.6

CR 65 2012

1

2

3

1

2

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Carburettor adjustmentAdjust the carburettor with warm engine and with the throttle control in closed position. Proceed as follows:- turn the idle speed adjuster screw (1) located on the left-hand side of the

vehicle, until setting idle RPM quite high (turn clockwise to increase the speed and counter clockwise to reduce the speed).

- Turn the adjuster screw (2) clockwise to fully closed position, and then turn it back by 3 turns.

- Gradually loosen the screw (1) until achieving suitable idle speed setting.

Idle adjustmentAdjust the carburettor with warm engine and with the throttle control in closed position. Proceed as follows:- Turn the idle speed adjuster screw (1) located on the left-hand side of the

vehicle, until setting idle RPM as required (turn clockwise to increase the speed and counter clockwise to reduce it).

Front brake fluid level check Check the front brake fluid level as follows:

- Stand the vehicle level and upright;

- Turn the handlebar so that the front brake master cylinder is in horizontal position;

- Loosen the screws (1) and remove cover (2) together with diaphragm (3);

- Make sure the oil level is about 3 mm from the top edge, in case top-up with oil of the type specified in the "LUBRICATION AND SUPPLIES" table.

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D.7

CR 65 2012

3 mm

1

2

3

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

A decrease of the fluid level will let air into the system, hence an extension of the lever stroke.

If the brake lever feels mushy when pulled, there may be air in the brake line or the brake may be defective: CHECK THE BRAKING SYSTEM (see Section "L").

Too much brake lever free play may reduce braking action: CHECK BRAKE PAD THICKNESS (see Section "L").

Do not pour brake fluid on painted surfaces.

Do not mix two brands of fluid. Completely change the brake fluid in the brake system if you wish to switch to another fluid brand.

Brake fluid may cause irritation. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water and contact a doctor if your eyes were exposed.

Clutch fluid level check Check the clutch fluid level as follows:

- Stand the minicross level and upright;

- Loosen the screws (1) and remove cover (2) together with diaphragm (3); - Make sure the oil level is about 3 mm from the top edge, in case top-up with

oil of the type specified in the "LUBRICATION AND SUPPLIES" table.

If the clutch feels mushy when pulled, there may be air in the brake line or the brake may be defective: CHECK CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.

Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface or lens (for example lights lens).

Do not mix two brands of fluid. Completely change the brake fluid in the brake system if you wish to switch to another fluid brand.

Brake fluid may cause irritation. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water and contact a doctor if your eyes were exposed.

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D.8

CR 65 2012

1

2

3 A

B

B

A

45

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Front brake lever adjustment

POSITION ADjUSTMENTLoosen the screws (2) to adjust the lever (1) position.When finished, tighten the screws (2) again.

Lever distance adjustmentTo adjust the distance between the lever (1) and the throttle twistgrip work on the ring nut (3) by turning it clockwise "A" to decrease it, and counterclockwise "B" to increase it.

Clutch lever adjustment

LEvER DISTANCE ADjUSTMENTTo adjust the distance between the clutch lever (1) and the throttle twistgrip work on knob (3) by turning it clockwise "A" to increase it, and counterclockwise "B" to decrease it.

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D.9

CR 65 2012

A

2

1

3

5 mm0.2 in.

B

3

4

5

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Rear brake pedal position adjustmentThe position of the rear brake pedal with respect to the footrest may be adjusted according to individual needs.For adjusting, proceed as follows:- Loosen the screw (1).- turn the cam (2) in order to raise or lower the brake pedal (3) within the range

available (A);- When finished, tighten the screw (1).Once this adjustment is completed, adjust the free play of the pedal following the instructions provided in paragraph "Rear brake pedal free play adjustment".

Rear brake pedal free play adjustmentThe rear brake pedal (3) should have a free play (B) (5 mm) before the brakes begin to bite.

Should this not happen, operate as follows:- loosen nut (4);- operate the pump rod (5) to increase or decrease the free play;- tighten nut (4) at the end of the operation.

When the free play requirement is not met, the brake pads will be subjected to an early wear that may lead to TOTAL BRAKE INEFFECTIvENESS.

If the brake pedal feels mushy when pulled, there may be air in the brake line or the brake may be defective. CHECK THE BRAKING SYSTEM (see Section L).

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D.10

CR 65 2012

MIN1

3

2

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Rear brake fluid level checkThe fluid level that can be seen through the inspection window (1) must be above the minimum mark on the master cylinder tank.To restore the level loosen the two screws (2), remove the cover (3), and top-up with oil type specified in the "LUBRICATION AND SUPPLIES" table.

A decrease of the fluid level will let air into the system, hence an extension of the lever stroke.

If the brake pedal feels mushy when pulled, there may be air in the brake line or the brake may be defective. CHECK THE BRAKING SYSTEM (see Section "L").

Too much brake lever free play may reduce braking action: CHECK BRAKE PAD THICKNESS (see Section "L").

Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface or lens (for example lights lens).

Do not mix two brands of fluid. Completely change the brake fluid in the brake system if you wish to switch to another fluid brand.

Brake fluid may cause irritation. Avoid contact with skin or eyes. In case of contact, flush thoroughly with water and call a doctor if your eyes were exposed.

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Oil level check- Heat up the engine, then turn it off, wait 2 minutes for transmission oil to

properly widespread.- Set the minibike on its stand so it is upright and level.- Check the oil level is above the inspection window (1) lower edge.

If the oil level is low, top-up through the dedicated oil hole (2) located on the casing upper side.

Oil replacement

Be careful not to touch hot engine oil.

Drain the oil with WARM ENGINE; proceed as follows:- Remove the oil filler cap (2).- Put a drip pan under engine.- Remove oil drainage plug (3).- Evacuate the exhausted oil.- Refit the drainage plug (3) (15 Nm / 1.5 Kgm / 11.06 ft/lb).- Top-up with suitable quantity through the dedicated oil hole (2).

Make sure the oil level is conforming to what stated in the relevant paragraph.

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Coolant level checkCheck level (1) in right-hand radiator when engine is cold (place the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground). The coolant should be approximately 0.39 in. above the cells.The radiator cap features two locking positions: the first one is for prior discharge of pressure from the cooling system.

Avoid removing radiator cap when engine is hot, as coolant may spout out and cause scalding.

Difficulties may arise in eliminating coolant from painted surfaces. If this occurs, wash off with water.

Coolant replacementPlace a vessel on the RH side of the cylinder, under the screw (1).

SLOWLY open the RH radiator cap (2); slope the motorcycle on the left side to drain the coolant easily in the vessel.Pour the necessary quantity of coolant in the radiator then warm up the engine in order to eliminate any possible air bubbles.

Periodically check the connecting hoses (see “Scheduled Maintenance Chart”): this will avoid coolant leakage and consequent engine seizure. If hoses (A) show cracks, swelling or hardening due to sheaths desiccation, their replacement shall be advisable.Check the correct tightening of the clamps (B).

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Air filter check and cleaning - Remove the saddle as outlined in the relevant paragraph.- Remove the plastic cover (1) by loosening the rear chassis retaining screw

(2). Release the spring (3) to remove the air filter (4).

- Clean the filter (4) with suitable products, then soak it in the specific oil.- Use a cloth to clean the filter box internal side (5).- Reassemble all parts, in the reverse order compared to disassembly.

Never tamper the filter box cover: we strongly recommend not to remove the material delimited by the cut to increase the air flow because this would lead to a drastic decrease of performances at low and medium rpm, against a very little improvement at high rpm; furthermore the cover protects the filter against water, mud and dirt.

We recommend keeping a spare filter.

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Chain adjustment Chain should be checked, adjusted and lubricated as per the "Maintenance Chart" (see Section B). to ensure safety and prevent excessive wear. If the chain becomes badly worn or is poorly adjusted (i.e., if input and output shafts loose or too taut), it could escape from sprocket or break. Remove the chain protection casings as indicated in the relevant paragraph.

Place the minicross on a stand and insert a 25 mm ø drill rod (A) on the upper chain guide.Adjust the chain tension so that the drill rod passes freely without excessively loosening the chain.

If it is not, proceed as follows:- Loosen the hexagon nut (1).- Loosen the check nuts (2) on both sides.- Work on screw (3) on rear swinging arm both sides, to increase or decrease

the chain tension having care to centre the wheel in the rear swinging arm referring to the notches on the swinging arm.

- When the desired tension is reached block the rear wheel shaft (4) by tighten-ing the hexagon nut (1) to a torque 85 Nm; 8.7 kgm; 62.7 ft/lb, and lock the screws (3) using check nuts (2).

When keeping the chain as tensioned as possible and inserting the drill rod you notice that the chain gets loosen, contact a Husqvarna authorised Dealer to replace it.

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Chain lubricationLubricate the chain following these instructions.

Never use grease to lubricate the chain. Grease helps to accumulate dust and mud, which act as abrasive and help to rapidly wear out the chain, the front and rear sprockets.

Disassembling and cleaningWhen particularly dirty, remove and clean the chain before lubrication. Proceed as follows:- Set a stand or a block under the engine and see that the rear wheel is lifted

from the ground.- Remove the chain protection casings as indicated in the relevant paragraph.- Remove clip (1), master link (2) and the chain (3). To reassemble, reverse

the above procedure.Make sure that the chain is neither worn out nor damaged. If the rollers or the links are damaged, replace the chain by following the instructions given in the Scheduled Maintenance Chart. Ensure that the sprockets are not damaged. Wash and clean the chain as described hereunder.

Chain cleaningWash using petroleum or naphtha. If you use fuel or especially trichloroethylene, dry and lubricate the chain to avoid oxidisation.

Chain lubrication After drying, dip the chain in Molybdenum Disulphide chain lubricant, if possible, or in warm high-viscosity engine oil (if warmed up, oil will be more fluid).

Fork adjustmentThe fork RH and LH legs can be adjusted both in compression (RH fork leg) and rebound (LH fork leg) damping, respectively. To adjust the fork proceed as follows.

Rebound damping adjustment (RH fork leg)To adjust start always from the standard position by rotating clockwise until end of stroke and then counterclockwise by 10±1 CLICKS. Turn clockwise to increase the damping and vice versa.

Compression damping adjustment (LH fork leg)To adjust start always from the standard position by rotating clockwise until end of stroke and then counterclockwise by 10±1 CLICKS. Turn clockwise to increase the damping and vice versa.

Rebound damping (RH leg)Standard 10 clicks counterclockwise from end of travelCompression damping (LH leg)Standard 10 clicks counterclockwise from end of travel

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B

D

A

B

C

1

2

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Fork position adjustment- Loosen the two screws (1) onto bottom yoke.- Loosen the steering head screw (2).- Adjust one fork leg at a time.

Refer to the notches on the leg upper part to adjust the fork position according to the rider height and the riding needs.Align the steering head upper part with one of the four notches (A, B, C and D) as shown in the figure.To keep the desired position tighten first the screw (2) and then the screws (1) fully home.Repeat the operation on the other leg.

Carry out the same fork position adjustment procedure on both legs.

Shock absorber adjustmentThe rear shock absorber must be adjusted according to the rider weight and the road conditions. IT is possible to adjust the shock absorber acting on the spring pre-load according to the rider weight.

The shock absorber adjustment affects both the stability and the handling of the motorcycle. After changing the standard suspension setting, ride with care. Before making any change, we recommend to identify a reference dimension"A" with bike on the central stand and front wheel raised off the ground.

- Have the bike resting on ground without rider. Measure dimension "A". The difference between dimension "A" with the wheel raised off the ground

and dimension "A" with the wheel on the ground shall be 25÷30 mm (0.98 ÷ 1.18 in).

- Have bike resting on the ground with rider sitting on it; Measure dimension "A"; The difference between dimension "A" with the wheel raised off the ground

and rider sitting on it shall be 60÷70 mm (2.36 ÷ 2.76 in).

B: silencer retaining screw axleC: rear wheel axle height

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Shock absorber spring preload adjustmentProceed as follows:1. Remove the side panels as described in Section "E".2. Loosen the two upper screws (4) and remove the two lower screws (5)

that fasten the rear chassis to the frame.3. Remove the clamp (6) of the tube that connects the filter box to the carburet-

tor.4. Remove the retaining screw (7) that fastens the silencer to the rear chas-

sis.5. Turn the rear chassis upside-down the reach the rear shock absorber adjust-

ing ring nuts.6. Clean lock ring nut (1) and adjuster ring nut (2) of the spring (3).7. Either with a hook wrench or an aluminium punch, loosen the lock ring nut.8. Turn the adjuster ring nut as required.9. Adjust preload to suit your weight or riding style and tighten the lock ring nut

firmly (tightening torque 5 Nm - 0.5 Kgm - 3.69 ft-lb).10. To reassemble the vehicle rear side follow the assembly instructions in the

reverse order.

Be careful not to touch hot exhaust pipe while adjusting the shock ab-sorber.

The standard length of the pre-loaded spring is as

follows:

A= 217 ± 1.5 mm

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Shock absorber damping adjustment It is possible to adjust the rebound travel of the shock absorber.

A) REBOUND - Standard setting: 2 turns (from fully closed)

To reset the standard setting, turn lower adjuster screw (1) clockwise until reach-ing fully closed position. Then turn it back by the mentioned turns. In order to obtain a smooth braking action, turn the adjuster screw counter clockwise. Vice versa to obtain a harder braking action.

It is possible to adjust the compression travel of the shock absorber.

B) COMPRESSION - Standard setting: 1 turn and ½ (from fully closed)

To reset the standard setting, turn upper adjuster screw clockwise (2) until reach-ing fully closed position. Then turn it back by the mentioned turns. In order to obtain a smooth braking action, turn the adjuster screw counter clockwise. Vice versa to obtain a harder braking action.

Shock absorber spring (3)STANDARDK=4.2 daN/mm

Spring preload (shock absorber ring nut)Standard spring length when in its seat 217 mm ±1.5Rebound damping (lower screw)Standard 2 turns counterclockwise from end of travelCompression damping (upper screw)Standard 1 turn and ½ counterclockwise from end of trav-

el

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Steering bearing clearance adjustmentFor safety reasons, the steering should always be adjusted so that the handlebar turns freely and without play. To check steering adjustment, set a stand or a block under the engine and see that the front wheel is lifted from the ground. Press lightly on the handlebar grips to cause the front end to rotate; the handlebar should turn smoothly. Sit on the ground in front of the front wheel and hold the lower ends of the fork legs. Push and pull in a front to rear motion to feel for play.If any play is detected, adjust as follows:

- Loosen the screws (3) with a 6 mm wrench. Loosen and retighten the nut (2) to a torque of 10 Nm - 1.0 Kgm - 7.38 ft/lb.

- Tighten the three screws (3) on the steering head to 25 Nm, 2.5 Kgm, 18.44 ft/Lb.

Handlebar position change

- Remove bumper (1) by cutting the two ties (2) that retain it to the handle-bar.

- It is possible to change the handlebar position to better meet your riding requirements. To do that remove the two upper U-bolts (1) loosening the 4 retaining screws (2).

2

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4

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Afterwards remove the lower ones (3) by loosening the relevant retaining screws (4).

- Use one of the two holes (5) on the steering head to move the handlebar on or back (of nearly 17 mm - 0.67 in.).

- Tighten the screws (4) to 35 Nm, 3.6 Kgm, 25.81 ft/lb.

- Place the handlebar on the lower clamps paying attention to the correct rout-ing of wires and pipes (they do not have to be twisted).

- Place the upper U-bolts (1) symmetrically and pre-tighten the screws (2) in a crossed pattern in order to have the same front and rear distance (A) between the upper and lower U-bolt.

- Once the handlebar correct inclination has been found, tighten the screws (2) to a torque of 28 Nm (2.85 Kgm - 20.65 ft/lb).

- Keep the same distance (A) during the assembly phase.

- Refit the bumper (3) by fastening it to the handlebar with two plastic ties (4), as shown in the picture.

5

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Tank supply and breather pipe checkMake sure the pipes (1) and (2) do not feature any leakage, cut, or evident cracks, and in case replace them.

Replace the supply pipe (1) as described in section "E".

Exhaust system checkRemove exhaust system components as described in Section "E". Ensure that pipe (1) and silencer (2) do not show any sign of failure or damage: replace if cracked or damaged.

Check for any gas leakage between silencer end caps and central pipe (which would indicate a wrongly carried out sealing).

2

1

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Sound deadening material replacementRemove the silencer (1) as described in the relevant paragraph and fasten it on a suitable support (vice provided with aluminium protections) having care not to deform the pipe.

Remove screws (2) that retain the rear end cap (3) and remove it from the silencer body.

Slide out the external pipe and remove the worn/damaged sound deadening material.

Clean the pipe damaged by any residue of burnt material and oil using first a wire brush and a compressed air jet then.Wrap the damaged pipe up in the new sound deadening material (5), paying utmost attention.

2

3

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SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS

Refit the external pipe having care to seal the front end cap with high-temperature resistant silicone.

Apply some sealant (6) on the rear end cap too, and position the latter by starting the retaining screws (2) WITHOUT TIGHTENING THEM COMPLETELY.

Once the silencer has been reassembled remove any surplus silicone.

Refit the silencer as described under the relevant paragraph; ONLY NOW tighten the rear end cap screws to a torque of 9 Nm.

Page 48: CR 65 2012
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E.1

CR 65 2012

E

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section

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E.2

CR 65 2012

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Foreword ......................................................................................................E.3Number holder removal ...............................................................................E.4Front mudguard removal .............................................................................E.4Saddle removal.............................................................................................E.5Side panel removal ......................................................................................E.5Rear chassis with rear mudguard and air filter removal .................................E.6Exhaust system removal .............................................................................E.7Fuel tank removal ........................................................................................E.9Carburettor removal from the engine..........................................................E.10Spark plug cap removal .............................................................................E.10Radiator removal ........................................................................................E.10Swinging arm removal ...............................................................................E.12Secondary drive chain removal ..................................................................E.13Clutch actuator removal .............................................................................E.13Generator cable removal ...........................................................................E.14Engine removal from the chassis .............................................................E.14

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E.3

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GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

ForewordThis section describes the operations preliminary to engine removal.Please note that, in order to gain access to certain motorcycle components (rear shock absorber, electrical parts, wiring, etc.), it may be necessary to partially remove some parts.

RIGHT-HAND SIDE LEFT-HAND SIDE

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E.4

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3

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GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Number holder removal- Loosen the screw (1) with an 8 mm wrench and lift the Number holder to

remove it.

- Widen the cable ring (2) to release the engine stop cable (4) and the front brake transmission (3).

Front mudguard removal- Using an 8 mm wrench, loosen the four screws (1), and remove mudguard

(2).

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E.5

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3

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2

12

3

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Saddle removal- Turn the rear pin (1) counterclockwise.

- Release the saddle (2) from the front retaining screw pin.

Side panel removal- Remove the saddle as described in the relevant paragraph.- To remove the side panels of the vehicle it is necessary to first remove the

plastic cover (1) of the air box, loosening the rear chassis retaining screw (2).

- Loosen the five retaining screws (3) and remove the left side panel (4).

- Proceed in the same way to remove the right side panel.

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3

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GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Rear chassis complete with mudguard and air filter removal- Remove the saddle as described in the relevant paragraph.- Remove the side panels as described in the relevant paragraph.- Slacken the clamp (1) that secures the rubber coupling (2) of the filter box

at the carburettor (3).

- Use an 8 mm ring wrench (screw) and a 10 mm wrench (nut) to remove the screw and the nut to release the silencer from the rear chassis.

- Use a 12 mm ring wrench to remove the four retaining screws (4) from the rear chassis on both sides.

- Remove the rear chassis with relevant mudguard and air filter (5) from behind releasing the carburettor rubber fitting.

- For reassembly follow the removal procedure in the reverse order having care to correctly fit the rubber fitting (2) on the carburettor so that it does not intake unfiltered air.

- See section "X" for screw tightening torque figures.

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10

9

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Exhaust system removal

- Use an 8 mm ring wrench (screw) and a 10 mm key (nut) to remove the screw and the nut to release the silencer (9) from the support bracket (10) (it is not necessary to remove the Number holder).

- Use an 8 mm ring wrench to release the silencer (9) from the elastic support fastened on the chassis.

Key1 Expansion pipe/silencer2 Gasket3 Springs4 Elastic supports8 Coupling9 Silencer10 Silencer support

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E.8

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9

3

1

7

1

8

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Remove the silencer (9) by sliding it from the rear side as shown in the figure. Pay attention to the rubber connection coupling (8).

- Remove the springs (3) from the silencer (1).

- Use an 8 mm ring wrench to remove the screw (7) from the elastic support fastened on the chassis.

- Remove the silencer (1).

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E.9

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4

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1

3

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Check conditions of gasket (2) and if damaged replace it.

For easier assembly smear some grease on the gasket (5).

- To reassemble, reverse the above procedure.

- See Section "X" for tightening torque figures.

Fuel tank removal

- Slide the breather hose (1) out of the steering stem and loosen chassis con-nection screw (2). Pay attention to the bushing under the screw head.

- Turn the ring nut of the fuel cock (3) clockwise to shut off fuel supply and loosen the clamp (4) on the hose running to the carburettor. Detach the hose at carburettor end and let fuel drain into a pan.

- Remove the tank (5) by sliding it from the rear side as shown in the figure.

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1

1

2

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Carburettor removal from the engine

- Loosen the tie (1) and remove the carburettor from the intake fitting.

Spark plug cap removal

- Take off the spark plug cap (1).

Radiator removal

- Remove the grids from the two radiators (1) releasing the pins from the holes as shown in the figure.

- Before removing the radiator pipes, empty the cooling system by loosening the screw (2) on the water pump cover.

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E.11

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5

6

3

7

1

2

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Loosen the clamp (4) of the upper pipe that connects the RH radiator (the pipe passes through the chassis).

If you need to remove the RH radiator with its connection pipe make sure to keep the washer.

- Open the clamp (5) of the RH radiator connecting lower pipe, and the clamp (6) of engine head connecting pipe (7), using clic clamp pliers (available on the market).

- Remove the two screws (3) that retain the LH radiator to the chassis.

- Remove the LH radiator with head connection pipe (7).

To remove the RH radiator proceed as follows:

- Loosen clamp (1) that fastens the connection pipe (2) to the water pump.

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E.12

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3

4

5

6

6

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Release the radiator breather hose (3) from the two chassis connection rub-ber clamps (4).

At this point, if the LH radiator had been previously removed, remove the two screws (5) that fasten the radiator to the chassis by releasing the RH radiator and the two pipes connecting it to the LH radiator, the pipe to the water pump, and the breather hose on the plug.

Otherwise release the radiator from the two LH radiator connection pipes opening the clamps (6) with the clic clamp pliers, and then disconnect it from the chassis as described above.

Swinging arm removal

- Remove the plug (1) of the shaft nut (2) locking the swinging arm onto the chassis.

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E.13

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4B

A

1

2

1

2

3

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- After releasing the brake pedal (B) loosen the chassis retaining screw (4), using a 17 mm socket wrench on the left, and a 14 mm one on the right to remove the nut (2) of the swinging arm pivot (3) and the swinging arm (A) itself.

Secondary drive chain removal

- Remove the case cover (1) to access the drive chain.

- Use needle-nose pliers to remove the master link (2) and open the drive chain.

Clutch actuator removal

- Remove the whole actuator (1) removing the three screws (2) that fasten it to the clutch cover, and release the pipe from the ring (3) that retains it to the engine.

Page 62: CR 65 2012

E.14

CR 65 2012

GENERAL PROCEDURES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Generator cable disconnection

- Cut the tie (1) that retains the cables against the chassis. Disconnect the generator electric cable connector (2).

Engine removal from the chassis

- Remove the two front screws (1) that retain the engine to the chassis.

- Remove the engine from the vehicle left side.

2

1

1

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F.1

CR 65 2012

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section F

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F.2

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ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Preparation ....................................................................................................F.3Gearbox oil drainage procedure ....................................................................F.3Cylinder head, cylinder and piston removal...................................................F.3Water pump disassembly .............................................................................F.4Clutch cover removal .....................................................................................F.5Clutch disassembly........................................................................................F.5Primary drive sprocket removal .....................................................................F.6Kick start pedal shaft removal .......................................................................F.7Gearbox control shaft and selector plate removal .........................................F.7Intake flange and reed valve removal............................................................F.8Starting system disassembly .........................................................................F.8Chain sprocket removal .................................................................................F.9Splitting the crankcase ..................................................................................F.9Gearbox control and shaft removal ...............................................................F.9Process........................................................................................................F.10Crankshaft removal from casing ..................................................................F.10

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3

4

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Preparation– Clean the engine before disassembling it.– Fasten the engine into the installation stand.– Remove the kick start pedal and the gearbox lever.– Remove the gearbox breather pipe from the engine casing.

Gearbox oil drainage procedure– Remove the gearbox oil drainage screws (1) with relevant sealing ring and

drain the gearbox oil.

Cylinder head, cylinder and piston removal– Loosen the spark plug.– Remove all cylinder head screws (2) and the head itself.

– Remove the two O-rings (3) from the cylinder grooves.– Remove both centring bushings (4).– Loosen the two clamps (5) and remove the water pipe.– Remove the exhaust pipe fitting (6) and its gasket by loosening the two

screws.– Remove the four flanged nuts from the cylinder base.– Carefully lift the cylinder up.

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BA

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ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

– Cover the crankcase with a clean cloth and place the piston on a wood sup-port.

– Remove the piston pin retainers and gently push it out of the piston.– Lift up the piston and remove the pin bearing from the connecting rod small

end.– Remove the cylinder base gaskets.

Water pump disassembly

WARNING:– It is not necessary to disassemble the water pump to remove the clutch cover.

The water pump remains inside the clutch cover.– The water pump features a hole A where spring B is located.

– Loosen the three screws and remove the water pump with its O-rings.– Remove the circlip (1) and slide the water pump impeller out of the shaft.

WARNING: If the water pump impeller is fastened inside the crankshaft it is pos-sible to slide it out along with the clutch cover by loosening the cover screws.

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3

4

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ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Clutch cover removal– Loosen the clutch cover screws to remove the cover and its gasket.

WARNING: When removing the clutch cover, pay attention to the thrust washer (3) of the kick start pedal shaft (it may remain attached to the clutch cover and the water pump shaft spring, page F4, spring (B)).

– Remove both centring bushings.– Remove the spring (2) of the starting coupling, the thrust washer (3) and the

thrust bearing (4).

– Slightly turn the starting coupling (5) counterclockwise and slide it out of the kick start pedal shaft.

Clutch disassembly– Place the retainer (1) on the hub and loosen the hexagonal-head screw.– Remove the hexagonal-head screw.

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3

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ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

– Remove the plate pack (2) from the clutch housing.

WARNING: The plate pack consists of lined and steel plates, compression springs, spring retaining plate with screws, pressure plate and hub.

If no repairing is required on the plate pack, then you do not need to continue disassembling.

– Slide out the thrust washer from the input shaft, the clutch housing, the sup-porting bushing (3) and the thrust washer (4) placed behind.

– Remove the starting idle gear (5).

Primary drive sprocket removal

– Place the retaining tool (6) for the primary drive sprocket and loosen the hexagon nut.

TO LOOSEN THE HEXAGON NUT OF THE PRIMARY DRIVE SPROCK-ET, THE PRIMARY DRIVE MUST NOT BE BLOCKED WITH A SECTOR GEAR OR ALIKE. THAT WOULD DAMAGE THE CRANKSHAFT.

– Remove the retaining tool, the hexagon nut, the lock washer and the primary drive sprocket from the crankshaft.

– Use the puller to remove the gear from the crankshaft.

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F.7

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3

2

4

5

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Kick start pedal shaft removal– Loosen the two screws (1) and remove the stop plate (2).– Remove the kick start pedal shaft from the casing.

Gearbox control shaft and selector plate removal– Use a screwdriver to push back the sliding plate (3) and at the same time

slide the gearbox control shaft out of the crankshaft.

– Remove the screw (4) and slide the selector plate out of the selector drum.

– Remove the circlip (5), the selector lever and spring.

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1

2

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Intake flange and reed valve removal– Loosen the 4 screws (1) of the intake flange and remove the flange with

relevant reed valve and gasket.

Ignition system disassembly– Loosen the 3 screws of the ignition cover and remove the latter (1).

– Hold the rotor and using the suitable wrench remove the flanged nut with its elastic washer.

– Screw the special puller (2) onto the rotor, keep the puller and by holding the extraction screw slide the rotor out of the crankshaft.

– Loosen the three screws (3) of the stator and remove the latter (4).– Remove the engine wiring ring from the crankcase.– Have care not to loose the key.

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2

3

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5

5

5

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Chain sprocket removal– Remove the circlip (1) and slide the chain sprocket out of the output shaft.– Slide the spacing bushing out of the output shaft using needle-nose pliers.

Splitting the crankcase– Turn up the ignition side and remove all screws from the casing.– Remove the engine retainers on the installation stand.– Detach the right crankcase half using suitable tools correctly positioned in

the relevant places, or gently tapping on the output shaft and crankshaft with a plastic hammer.

AVOID SEPARATING THE CRANKCASE HALVES WITH A SCREW-DRIVER OR SIMILAR TOOLS THAT CAN EASILY DAMAGE THE SEALING SURFACES.

Gearbox control and shaft removal– Remove the left crankcase half and the relevant gasket.

WARNING: While removing the left crankcase half be careful not to damage the washers on the input shaft and the selector drum. They can be fastened inside the crankcase half.

– Remove the thrust washer (3) and the shim (2).– Slide the 2 centring bushings out of the casing.– Remove the O-ring from the output shaft.– Fasten the right crankcase half onto the installation stand.– Pull up the fork guiding rods (4) by nearly 1.5 cm and move them aside to-

gether with the gearbox forks (5).– Remove the selector drum (6) with the relevant shim (if any) from the cas-

ing.

WARNING: The shims on the selector drum compensate the axial clearance. Upon reassembly they must be refitted in the original position.

– Remove the fork guiding rods and the gearbox forks from the casing.

WARNING:– The gearbox forks of the output shaft are the same, but despite that, they

should be refitted in the original position.For this reason mark them upon disassembly.

– The fork guiding rods are loaded by means of a spring, so it is recommendable to slide them upwards from the gearbox forks. In this way the upper spring remains in the rod and the lower one must be removed from the casing. Then the gearbox forks can be moved aside.

MAKE SURE THE BUSHINGS DO NOT FALL FROM THE GEARBOX FORKS.

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ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Process

– Slide out the two gearbox shafts from the right crankcase half.

WARNING: when removing the two gearbox shafts pay attention to the output shaft thrust washer which could be stuck inside the casing.

Crankshaft removal from casing– Use the two threaded rods to fasten the special tool (1) to the crankcase half

and pull the crankshaft out of the crankcase half.

WARNING: If the procedure described above is not possible, heat the crankcase half up to nearly 100°C.

– Clean all parts, check them for wear and replace if necessary.

WARNING: In case of engine overhaul we recommend to replace all gaskets, oil seals, O-rings and bearings.

UPON REMOVAL OF CRANKSHAFT HAVE IT KEPT BY ANOTHER PERSON TO PREVENT IF FROM FALLING DOWN AND GETTING DAMAGED.

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G.1

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ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section G

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G.2

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ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Engine crankcase (crankcase half) ..............................................................G.3Actions on left crankcase half .......................................................................G.4Actions on right crankcase half.....................................................................G.5Crankshaft measurement .............................................................................G.6Actions on clutch cover.................................................................................G.6Water pump disassembly and inspection .....................................................G.7Piston check .................................................................................................G.8Piston ring gap measurement.......................................................................G.8Piston and cylinder measurement, piston assembly clearance determination..........................................................................G.8Reed valve, intake flange .............................................................................G.9Gearbox control shaft disassembly ............................................................G.10Gearbox control – check for component wear ............................................G.10Gearbox control shaft pre-assembly...........................................................G.10Clutch – check for component wear ...........................................................G.11Plate pack pre-assembly ............................................................................G.11Kick start pedal shaft pre-assembly............................................................G.12Gearbox shafts – check for component wear .............................................G.12Input shaft assembly...................................................................................G.13Output shaft assembly ................................................................................G.13

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G.3

CR 65 2012

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Crankcase (crankcase half)Warning: Carefully read this paragraph before starting the operation. Determine the reassembly sequence in order carry out a single heating treatment on the crankcase halves to refit the bearings.

To detach or remove the bearings - if necessary even tapping with suitable tools - remove the reference bushings and place the crank-case halves on a flat surface big enough to avoid damaging the sealing surfaces of the crankcase halves. To this end we recommend using a wood plane.

Bearings and sealing rings should never be fitted without a suitable press, otherwise pay utmost attention and use other suitable tools. When the casings reach 150 °C cold bearings fall in the relevant seats without any effort.

If the bearings are not well seated after cooling down, it is probable that they will turn in their seats upon following operation: it is thus necessary to replace the crankcase.

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G.4

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4

2

1

3

5

6

7

S

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Actions on left crankcase halfRemove the oil seals and heat the crankcase half on an electric plate up to 150 °C.

WARNING: Gently tap on crankcase half heated to 150 °C on a wood plate to make the bearings fall into their seats. If necessary, press the bearing out.The tools (punches) to insert the new bearings shall be so designed to lay on the external ring of the bearings. Otherwise the bearings will be already dam-aged upon assembly.

Crankshaft ball bearing (1)Use a suitable punch to push the ball bearing from the outside. Push the new ball bearing from the inside fully home.

Output shaft ball bearing (2)Use a suitable punch to push the ball bearing from the outside. Push the new ball bearing from the inside fully home.

Input shaft needle roller bearing (3)Use a suitable Ø 12-16 mm puller to remove the needle roller bearing from the casing. Push the new needle roller bearing fully home.

Selector drum ball bearing (4)Use a suitable puller to remove the roller bearing from the casing. Push the new ball bearing fully home.

Engine oil seal (5)From the outer side, force the new oil seal in with the sealing lip inwards.

Output shaft oil seal (6)From the outer side, force the new oil seal in with the sealing lip inwards.

Gearbox control shaft oil seal (7).From the outer side, force the new oil seal in with the sealing lip inwards.

After crankcase half has cooled down check that all bearings are properly po-sitioned in their seats.Then make sure the lubrication hole (S) for the crankshaft ball bearing is free.

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1

2

5

2

3

78

9

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Actions on right crankcase halfRemove the oil seals and heat the crankcase half on an electric plate up to 150 °C. WARNING: Gently tap on crankcase half heated to 150 °C on a wood plate to make the bearings fall into their seats. If necessary, press the bearing out.The tools (punches) to insert the new bearings shall be so designed to lay on the external ring of the bearings. Otherwise the bearings will be already dam-aged upon assembly.

Crankshaft ball bearing (1)Use a suitable punch to push the ball bearing from the outside. Push the new ball bearing from the inside fully home.

Input shaft ball bearing (2)Remove screw (3).

WARNING: To improve the seat, the crankshaft ball bearing is fastened with a screw to the casing on engines from model '99. Remove such screw before extracting the bearing.Use a suitable punch to push the ball bearing from the outside.Push the new ball bearing from the inside fully home.Smear Loctite 243 on the screw (3) thread and fit it.

LIGHTLY PUSH THE NEW NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING AGAINST THE CASING TO AVOID DAMAGING THE LATTER.

Selector drum ball bearing (5)Use a suitable punch to push the ball bearing from the outside.Push the new ball bearing from the inside fully home.

Output shaft needle roller bearing (6)Use a suitable punch to push the needle roller bearing from the outside.Push the new needle roller bearing from the inside.

Engine oil seal (7)From the outer side, force the new oil seal in with the sealing lip inwards.

Idle gear supporting pin (8)According to our experience it is not necessary to replace the supporting pin. Nevertheless, to replace it remove the socket head screw from the supporting pin and remove it. Upon assembly smear some Loctite 243 on the socket head screw.

Selector lever supporting pin (9)Use a socket wrench to remove the supporting pin from the selector lever. Upon assembly smear some Loctite 243 on the supporting pin.

When the crankcase half has cooled down check the bearings are properly seated.

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G.6

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S

1

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Then make sure the lubrication hole (S) for the crankshaft ball bearing is free.

Crankshaft measurementAlways check the drive shaft axes misalignment when reusing the crankshaft.

Max. drive shaft axes misalignment 0.05 mm

Check the radial clearance to the connecting rod big end bearing.

Max. radial clearance 0.03 mm

Actions on clutch coverKick start pedal shaft oil seal (1)Push the old oil seal from inside out. Force the new oil seal in from outside (with open side inwards).

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G.7

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1

2

3

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Water pump disassembly and check– Loosen the three screws and remove the water pump with its seal.– Remove the circlip (1) and slide the water pump impeller out of the shaft.

– Push the water pump shaft (2) inside together with the ball bearings to remove it from the clutch cover.

WARNING: If the ball bearings remain in the casing they can be extracted from the clutch cover using a suitable puller.

Water pump oil seal– Push the old oil seal from inside out.

– From the outer side, force the new oil seal in with the open side outwards.

Water pump ball bearings– Slide both bearings out of the water pump shaft.– First key the ball bearing fully against the shaft. Then key the ball bearing

sealed on both sides.

– Grease the water pump oil seal.– Force the water pump shaft completely inside the clutch cover. Then make

sure the water pump shaft moves freely.– Insert the water pump impeller on the shaft and fit the circlip (3).

CHECK THE CIRCLIP SEAT. OTHERWISE THE WATER PUMP IMPEL-LER COULD LOOSEN.

– Screw the water pump cover with its seal on the clutch cover and tighten the screws to 10 Nm.

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G.8

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xy

10mm

xy

50mm

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Piston checkCheck what follows when reusing a piston:

1. Check for any dent or seizure on the piston sliding surface (you can use a fine grain abrasive stone to remove light seizure signs).

2. Piston ring groove: The piston ring must not get stuck in the groove. To clean the groove use an old piston ring or abrasive paper (grain 400).

3. The piston ring retainer must be firmly placed in the piston and must not be worn out.

4. Check piston ring wear and gap.

Piston ring gap measurement– Insert the piston ring in the cylinder and align it with the piston (ca. 10 mm

under the cylinder upper edge). Use a feeler gauge to measure the piston ring gap (B).

Piston ring gap: max. 0.35 mm

WARNING: If the value exceeds the indicated one check the piston ring and cylinder wear. If the piston and cylinder wear respect the tolerances, replace the piston ring.

Piston and cylinder measurement, and piston assembly clearance deter-mination.– To determine the cylinder wear, the cylinder is measured by means of a feeler

gauge placed 10 mm and 50 mm under the sliding surface upper edge.– Measure the cylinder diameter on X and Y axes to detect any ovalization.

– The piston shall be measured on its skirt transversal to the piston pin, nearly 50 mm under the piston upper edge and nearly above the slot.

– The piston assembly clearance is obtained by subtracting the piston maximum diameter from the cylinder minimum diameter.

Piston installation clearance: 0.065 - 0.075 mm

WARNING: If the piston installation clearance exceeds 0.09 mm, it is necessary to fit a bigger piston. If this happens with a piston marked with "E/F", it is neces-sary to replace both cylinder and piston.

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G.9

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ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

WARNING:When replacing piston and cylinder make sure they have the same marking.The marking is on the piston crown and on the cylinder base.

The table below indicates the tolerance limits for the relevant components.

Always consider there must be an installation clearance of 0.065 mm!

MARKING PISTON MEAS. CYLINDER MEAS. A 44.955 – 44.960 mm 45.025 – 45.030 mm B 44.961 – 44.965 mm 45.031 – 45.035 mm C 44.966 – 44.970 mm 45.036 – 45.040 mm D 44.971 – 44.975 mm 45.041 – 45.045 mm E 44.976 – 44.980 mm 45.046 – 45.050 mm

Reed valve, intake flangeWARNING: Over time the reeds loose tension with a consequent power loss. Damaged or worn out reeds shall be replaced.If the reed valve surfaces are damaged, replace the whole reed valve.

Intake flangeMake sure there are no cracks or other damages.

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G.10

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2

1

1 2

3

4

5

6

7

7

8

711

119

12

12

12

12

10

10

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Gearbox control shaft disassembly– Fasten the gearbox control shaft in the vice (use protection jaws).– Remove the return spring (1) and loosen the spring holder (2) from the gearbox

control shaft (6).– Remove the selector (4) together with the sliding plate (3) and the compres-

sion spring (5) from the gearbox control shaft (6).– Remove the compression spring (5) by moving the sliding plate (3) and remov-

ing it from the selector (4).

Gearbox control – component wear checkSliding plate (3)Check wear on engagement points on the shaped selector plate.Check the sliding plate return surface wear (replace if too much notched).

Selector (4)Check wear on engagement points on the shaped selector plate.Check the guiding pin fixed seat and wear.

Compression spring (5)Check the compression spring pre-load for the sliding plate.

Gearbox forks (7)Check for wear of gearbox fork end parts and of the selector drum driving dowels.

Selector drum (8)Check for wear of the shaped grooves.Check for wear of selector drum supporting points.

WARNING:– The selector drum (8) is on ball bearings (10) and the fork guiding rods (11)

are loaded by means of a spring (12).

Gearbox control shaft pre-assembly– Insert the sliding plate in the selector and move it.– Now it is possible to insert the compression spring.– Remove the grease from the spring holder thread and lightly smear Loctite

243. Fit the sliding plate together with the selector on the gearbox control shaft and fasten with the spring holder.

– Fit the return spring.

WARNING: The return spring shall be fitted with curved part faced up.

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G.11

CR 65 2012

LOCTITE 243

1

27

5

6

A 34

B

LOXEAL 86-54

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Clutch – check for component wearCheck for component wear:Thrust bearing (1)

Clutch springs (2)Minimum length 25 mm (when new 27 mm), if necessary replace all 6 springs.

6 lined plates (3)The lined plates must be flat and feature a minimum thickness of 1.80 mm.

5 steel plates (4)The steel plates must be flat and feature a minimum thickness of 0.95 mm.

Clutch hub (5)Check that the steel plate thrust surfaces are not damaged.Check the bearing surface A of the lined plate. If the pitting exceeds 0.50 mm, replace the hub.

Clutch housing (6)Check the thrust surfaces B wear of the lined plates. If the pitting exceeds 0.50 mm, replace the clutch housing.

Supporting bushing (7) Insert the supporting bushing in the clutch housing and check the clearance.

Plate pack pre-assembly– Fasten the input shaft in the vice (use protection jaws).– Insert the thrust washer (1.50 mm), the supporting bushing and the clutch

housing.– Insert the pressure plate.– Alternatively insert 6 lined plates and 5 steel plates starting with a lined plate.

Finish with a lined plate.– Insert the spring retaining plate, start, pre-tighten and then tighten the socket

screws to 12 Nm.– Remove the plate pack from the clutch housing.

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4 56

7

B

41

23 5 6 7

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Kick start pedal shaft pre-assembly– Fasten the shaft (4) of the kick start pedal with the lower grooved side in the

vice (use protection jaws).– Insert the starting gear (5) with the stopping toothing down on the kick start

pedal shaft.– Engage the kick start pedal spring (6) in the suitable hole of the kick start pedal

shaft and fit the driving hub (7) with opening A above the spring end part.– Remove the kick start pedal shaft from the vice.

Gearbox shafts – component wear check– Fasten the input and output shafts in the vice (useprotection jaws). Remove the gears and check for wear and seizure signs in the following points:– the supporting points of the input and output shafts, and of the neutral

gears;– the gear front couplings;– the teeth sides of all gears;– the toothing profiles of the input and output shafts and of the relevant

gears;– check the smoothness of the gearbox gear contours.

Thoroughly clean all parts and replace the faulty ones.Upon each repairing of the gearbox first mount the new circlips.

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G.13

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1110

98 6 5

43

7 21

ENGINE OVERHAUL

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Input shaft assembly– Fasten the input shaft with the splined end down in the vice (use protection

jaws).– Properly oil all components before assembly.– Insert the 5th neutral gear (1) with the front couplings upwards, and fit the

circlip (2) with the sharp edge upwards.– Insert the 3rd/4th sliding gear pair (3) with the smaller gear up on the input

shaft, and fit the circlip (4) with sharp edge upwards.– Fit the 6th neutral gear (5) with the front couplings down, and the 2nd fixed

gear (6) with the milled part downwards.– Fit the thrust washer (7).– Then check that all gears move freely.

Output shaft assembly– Fasten the output shaft with the splined end down in the vice (use protection

jaws).– Properly oil all components before assembly.– Insert the 2nd neutral gear (1) with the teeth bevelling downwards, and fit the

circlip (2) with the sharp edge upwards.– Insert the 6th sliding gear (3) with the fork slot upwards, and fit the circlip (4)

with the sharp edge downwards.– Insert the 3rd neutral gear (5) with the fork slot upwards, and the 4th neutral

gear (6) with the fork slot downwards.– Fit the circlip (7) with the sharp edge upwards.– Fit the 5th sliding gear (8) with the fork slot downwards.– Insert the needle roller bearing (9) on the shaft.– Fit the 1st neutral gear (10) with the slot downwards and then the thrust

washer (11).– Then check that all gears move freely.

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H.1

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ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section H

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H.2

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ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Inserting the crankshaft in the engine casing .............................................. H.3Refitting the gearbox shafts and the gearbox control ................................. H.3Crankcase halves coupling.......................................................................... H.4Refitting the kick start pedal shaft ............................................................... H.4Refitting the selector plate and the gearbox control shaft ........................... H.5Clutch assembly .......................................................................................... H.5Refitting the primary drive sprocket ............................................................. H.6Refitting the starting coupling, and kick start pedal shaft pre-load .............. H.6Refitting the clutch cover ............................................................................. H.7Refitting the chain sprocket ......................................................................... H.7Refitting reed valve and intake flange ......................................................... H.8Refitting the ignition system and adjusting the fixed spark advance ........... H.9Cylinder head installation .......................................................................... H.10Refitting the kick start pedal ..................................................................... H.10Refitting the ignition cover ......................................................................... H.10Gearbox oil filling procedure ...................................................................... H.11

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H.3

CR 65 2012

1

8

6

4

35

2

7

8

8

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Inserting the crankshaft in the engine casing– Fasten the right crankcase half onto the installation stand.– Grease the crankshaft oil seal and oil the crankshaft ball bearing.– Fit the crankshaft installation tool with the relevant bushing (1) and insert the

crankshaft fully home.

UPON CRANKSHAFT INSERTION THE CONNECTING ROD MUST BE FACED TO THE CYLINDER.

Refitting the gearbox shafts and control– Keep the input and output shafts in your hand as shown in the picture, and

insert the two shafts together in the relevant seats.

CHECK THE SEAT OF THE OUTPUT SHAFT LOWER THRUST WASHER. THE UPPER GEAR PAIR MUST TURN ON THE SAME AXIAL PLANE.

– Engage the gearbox fork with the smallest round opening (2) in the input shaft sliding gear.

– Use a screwdriver to slightly lift up the lower sliding gear of the output shaft and engage the gearbox fork (3).

– Engage the last gearbox fork (4) in the output shaft upper sliding gear.

– USED GEARBOX FORKS MUST BE REFITTED IN THE SAME SLIDING GEAR THEY WERE BEFORE. FOR THIS REASON, UPON REASSEMBLY PAY ATTENTION TO THE SIGNS MARKED DURING DISASSEMBLY.

– MAKE SURE THE BUSHINGS DO NOT FALL FROM THE GEARBOX FORKS.

– Grease and fasten the shims (8) on the selector drum.– Grease the selector drum (5) and insert it in the engine casing.– Engage the gearbox forks in the selector drum.

WARNING: The fork guiding rods are loaded by means of a spring, and the lower springs should be lightly greased and fastened to the guiding rods.

– Insert the fork guiding rod (6) into input shaft the gearbox fork and the long fork guiding rod (7) into the output shaft gearbox forks.

– Insert the fork guiding rods fully inside the casing holes.

WARNING: The gearbox shafts must now be easy to be turned.

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H.4

CR 65 2012

1

A

2

M6x40

M6x30M6x45

M6x30 M6x30

M6x45

M6x45

M6x45

3

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Crankcase halves coupling– Remove the engine retainers on the installation stand.– Fit the two centring bushings in the right crankcase half.– Grease the oil seal of the input and output shafts.– The thrust washer 1 must not be fitted on the input shaft.– Smear some grease on the casing sealing surface and fit a new gasket.– Place the left crankcase half by contemporarily turning the gearbox shafts.– Grease the threads and the bearing surface of the casing screw heads and

fit the screws.– The 4 screws in the ignition side casing must be the first to be tightened fol-

lowing a cross pattern. Tightening torque 10 Nm.– Tighten the other screws to 10 Nm and make sure all shafts move freely.– Fasten the engine into the installation stand.

– After tightening the casing screws check the axial clearance of the selector drum. The selector drum axial clearance must be of 0.30 - 0.50 mm. The axial clearance can be compensated using shims.

Refitting the kick start pedal shaft– Insert the pre-assembled kick start pedal shaft (2) in the casing hole and fit

the kick start pedal spring into the prong (A) in the casing.– Degrease the thread of the two bolts (3) and smear some Loxeal 24-18. Fasten

the stopping plate with the two M6x20 CH8 bolts to the engine casing and tighten them to 12 Nm.

– Check that the starting gear moves freely.

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1

2

3 A

4

5

6

7

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Refitting the selector plate and the gearbox control shaft– Place the selector spring (1) as shown in the engine casing picture.– Fit the selector lever (2) with the roller faced to the casing and the circlip (3)

with the sharp edge upwards.– Engage the selector spring to the casing prong A.

– Push the selector lever back and fit the selector on its drum.– Degrease the screw thread (4), smear the thread with Loxeal 24-18 and fasten

the selector plate to 14 Nm.– Grease the gearbox control shaft oil seal.– Grease the pre-assembled gearbox control shaft and carefully insert it in the

engine casing. Push the sliding plate back and insert the gearbox control shaft fully inside the engine casing.

– Fit the gear shift pedal and insert, in sequence, all gears by contemporarily turning the input shaft. Afterwards remove the gear shift pedal again.

Clutch reassembly– Fit the idle gear (5) with the beat faced to the casing on the supporting pin.– Insert the thrust washer (6) and the greased supporting bushing (7) onto the

input shaft.– Insert the clutch housing and the thrust washer (17.2x30x1.5 mm) on the

input shaft.

– Fit the pre-assembled plate pack.– Smear some Loxeal 86-54 in the screw thread and fit the screw with the Bel-

leville washer (see the assembly diagram at page G.10).– Place the clutch retainer using the suitable wrench and tighten the screw to

50-52 Nm.

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H.6

CR 65 2012

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Refitting the primary drive sprocket

WARNING: Before fitting the primary drive sprocket it is necessary to degrease the cone.

– Degrease the crankshaft thread and smear some Loxeal 100 HSP.– Fit a new thrust washer and the hexagon nut.

– Place the retaining tool for the primary drive sprocket and tighten the hexagon nut to 100 Nm.

– Remove the retaining tool.

Refitting the starting coupling, kick start pedal pre-load– Fit the starting coupling (1) as shown in the kick start pedal shaft picture.– Pre-load the kick start pedal shaft counterclockwise and engage the starting

coupling on the stopping plate (a high pre-load is not necessary).– Oil the sliding points, fit the thrust washer (2) and the spring (3) of the starting

coupling with the small diameter faced to the coupling.

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H.7

CR 65 2012

1

M6x25

M6x30

M6x25

M6x25M6x25

M6x25

M6x30

AB

2

3

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Refitting the clutch cover– Make sure that both centring bushings are fitted in the engine casing.– Smear some grease on the casing sealing surface and fit a new clutch cover

gasket.– Insert the thrust bearing 1 in the spring retaining plate.– Grease all clutch cover oil seals.

– Grease and fasten the spring (A) in the water pump shaft (B).– Align the crankshaft and the water pump shaft.

UPON CLUTCH COVER REASSEMBLY MAKE SURE THE CRANK-SHAFT PLANE POINT ENGAGES IN THE RELEVANT GROOVE OF THE WATER PUMP SHAFT. IF NECESSARY SLIGHTLY TURN THE CRANKSHAFT.

– Position the clutch cover.– Insert all screws in the clutch cover and tighten them to 10 Nm (see diagram

for screw length).– Check that the kick start pedal shaft moves freely.

Refitting the chain sprocket– Oil the O-ring and fit it on the output shaft.– Push the spacing bushing on it so that the O-ring places in the correct posi-

tion.– Fit the chain sprocket 2 with the beat faced to the output shaft casing and

fasten it with the circlip 3 (sharp edge outwards).

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H.8

CR 65 2012

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Refitting reed valve and intake flange– Insert the reed valve with a new gasket in the engine casing, fit the intake

flange and fasten by means of 4 screws.– Fit the two remaining flanged screws on the cylinder base and tighten the 4

flanged screws to 18-20 Nm. – Screw the exhaust fitting and the gasket to the cylinder.

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H.9

CR 65 2012

1

2

altezza cilindro

accensione

3

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Refitting the ignition system and adjusting the fixed spark advance– Smear some Loxeal 24-18 on the three socket head screws thread and fasten

the stator (1) without tightening.– Smear some silicone in the cable ring and fit it in the relevant opening on the

casing.

– Insert the key in the crankshaft.– Fit the rotor on the crankshaft and mount the elastic washer with flanged

nut.– Insert the wrench (2) in the two holes and tighten the flanged nut to 60 Nm.

– Move the piston to the L.D.C. and place the adjusting gauge on the cylinder upper edge.

– Now the internal rotor must be turned counterclockwise until the piston upper edge touches the adjusting gauge (see sketch).

– Now turn the stator so that the two markings 3 match.

BEFORE ADJUSTING THE FIXED SPARK ADVANCE IT IS NECES-SARY TO CORRECTLY ADJUST DIMENSION “X”.

– Smear some Loxeal 24-18 on the 3 socket head screws of the stator and tighten them to 8 Nm.

– Check again the distance between the piston upper edge and the cylinder upper edge using the adjusting gauge; if necessary, adjust it by turning the stator accordingly.

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H.10

CR 65 2012

1

22

3

4

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Cylinder head installation– Clean the cylinder and cylinder head sealing surfaces, and fit the O-rings (1)

in the relevant grooves (in case smear with some grease).– Remove both centring bushings (2).

– Position the cylinder head with the water fitting back (intake side).– Fit the cylinder head screws with the new copper sealing rings, and tighten

them in two steps: first start them without tightening, then tighten definitively to the preset torque of 18 Nm.

– Screw the spark plug.– Fit the water hose (3) and fasten it with the two clamps.

Refitting the kick start pedal– Screw the kick start pedal (4) as shown for the kick start pedal shaft.

Refitting the ignition cover– Refit the cover.– Fit the gear shift pedal in the correct position on the gearbox control shaft,

and fasten it with the retaining screw.

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H.11

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1

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Gearbox oil filling procedure– Screw the gearbox breather pipe to the engine casing.– Screw the gearbox oil bleeding screw (1) with its new sealing ring, and tighten

to 12 Nm.– Remove the oil filling screw from the clutch cover and fill in 0.50 l of gearbox

oil.– Refit the oil filling screw.

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I.1

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I

FRONT SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section

Page 100: CR 65 2012

I.2

CR 65 2012

FRONT SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Front suspension .......................................................................................... I.3Removing front fork ...................................................................................... I.4Fork spring features...................................................................................... I.5Fork oil .......................................................................................................... I.5Cleaning the fork legs dust seals.................................................................. I.6

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I.3

CR 65 2012

CR 65

FRONT SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Front suspensionUpside-down hydraulic fork with advanced axle (compression and rebound damping adjustment) with ø 35 mm legs.The wheel travel on the forks axle is of 220 mm.

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I.4

CR 65 2012

A

FRONT SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Removing front forkMeasure height "A" (it will need to be restored to original value on assembly). Set a block under the engine and see that the front wheel is lifted from the ground and then proceed as follows:

- Release the front brake hose and the engine stop cable from the hose ring (1) inside the Number holder.

- Release the front brake hose from the U-bolt (2) that fastens the hose to the left fork leg protection;

1

2

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I.5

CR 65 2012

FRONT SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Remove the brake calliper from the L.H. fork leg loosening the two retaining screws (2);

- Remove the front wheel as described in Section "Y";

- Loosen the bolts (3) that secure the fork legs to steering head and bottom yoke;

- Remove the fork legs.

After all necessary operations, refit the fork legs and the front wheel as described in section "Y".

Set height "A" back to original value.

Fork spring features

Length = 380 mm

Constant K = 3.5 Nm

Fork oil

Level 100 ± 2 mm (without spring, preload tube, and with tube fully home)Oil quantity in each fork leg: 210 cu. cm

2

3

3

Oil level 100 ± 2 mm

TIGHTENING TORQUE FIGURES

3 = 25 Nm/ 2.5 Kgm/ 18.44 ft/lb

Page 104: CR 65 2012

I.6

CR 65 2012

FRONT SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Cleaning the fork legs dust sealsPosition the bike on a stand to lift up the front wheel, and push down the dust seals protections on both fork legs.

The dust seals protections remove dirt from the fork legs that builds up when using the vehicle, protecting the fork internal side. Clean the dust seals to prevent part of the built-up dirt on the legs from entering inside the fork and thus damaging the oil seals with consequent sealing loss.

Any oil leakage from the fork legs can represent a danger when using the vehicle since the presence of oil on the brake disc or on the pads reduces the braking effect.

In case of contacts between friction parts and oil, thoroughly clean with detergent suitable for brakes.

- Clean and lubricate the dust seals and the internal tube on both fork legs.

- Refit the dust seal protections by perfectly matching them with the outer tube.

- Remove the exceeding oil.

1

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J.1

CR 65 2012

J

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section

Page 106: CR 65 2012

J.2

CR 65 2012

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Rear shock absorber .....................................................................................J.3Rear suspension............................................................................................J.3Removing the rear shock absorber ...............................................................J.4Removing the chain rear casing ....................................................................J.4Disassembling and servicing the swinging arm .............................................J.5Servicing the swinging arm pivot ...................................................................J.7Servicing the rear rocker arm and suspension drop drag link .......................J.7Chain roller, chain guide, chain slider ............................................................J.8Adjusting the shock absorber .......................................................................J.8

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J.3

CR 65 2012

1

2

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Rear shock absorber

TIGHTENING TORQUE FIGURES

1 = 70 Nm/ 7.1 Kgm/ 51.63 ft/lb + Loctite 2432 = 50 Nm/ 5.1 Kgm/ 36.88 ft/lb + Loctite 243

Rear suspensionThe suspension of this motorcycle consists of a shock absorber, a series of linkages and a swinging arm. The spring preload of the shock absorber can be adjusted to suit riding and terrain conditions. The hydraulic damping can be adjusted both in rebound and in compression. Periodically check all components for wear.

LUBRICATION POINTS (GREASE)

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J.4

CR 65 2012

2 1

3

45

2

1

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Rear shock absorber removal- Remove the front retaining pin (1) of the drag link (2) of the suspension on the

chassis.

- Remove the shock absorber lower retaining screw (3) and the upper one (4), and then slide the shock absorber (5) out.

Upon reassembly insert the upper pin (4) from the right to the left, and the lower one (3) from the left to the right.

Removing the chain rear casing- Remove the rear chain protection casing (1) by cutting the two ties (2) that

fasten it to the swinging arm.

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J.5

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1

2

A

3

CB5

A

4

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Disassembling and servicing the swinging arm- Set a stand under the engine and see that the rear wheel is lifted from the

ground. - Remove the secondary drive chain (1) and detach the rear brake line (2) from

the guide (A) on the swinging arm.

- Remove the wheel axle nut (3) and the wheel axle (B): There is no need to loosen the chain tensioners (4) on the swinging arm; in this way, the chain tension will remain unchanged after reassembly.

- Slide the wheel (C) out.- Remove the pin (5) that connects the shock absorber linkage to the swinging

arm (A).

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J.6

CR 65 2012

2

3

1

4 B

A

D

E

3

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Remove the plug (1) of the shaft nut (2) locking the swinging arm onto the chassis.

- After releasing the brake pedal (B) loosen the chassis retaining screw (4), using a 17 mm socket wrench on the left, and a 14 mm one on the right to remove the nut (2) of the swinging arm pivot (3) and the swinging arm (A) itself.

- Check the swinging arm pivot (3) parallelism. - Check for wear of the needle roller bearings (D) and the relevant pins (E);

turn the pins inside the roller bearings: if you feel any tightness or hear noise, replace them.

TIGHTENING TORQUE FIGURES

2-3 =70 Nm / 7.1 Kgm / 51.63 ft/lb + Loctite 243

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J.7

CR 65 2012

2

1

2

1 B

B

B

B

B

D

DA

C

C

3

4 5

6

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Servicing the swinging arm pivotCheck shaft taper using a dial gauge. Place the shaft on two identical reference blocks. Turn the shaft and move the dial gauge horizontally to determine the amount of distortion.Service limit: 0.30 mm.

Servicing the rear suspension drop and drag linkWith drop link (1) and drag link (2) still in place (connected to swinging arm and chassis, respectively), rock them both back and forth in all directions to check for radial and axial clearance. Some axial clearance in the drop drag link is required for the swinging arm to achieve the ideal position for proper operation. If any radial clearance is detected, remove the part from swinging arm or chassis and check inner spacer (A), bushings (C), (D) and bearings (B) for wear. Grease the inner race of the bearings before refitting them.

TIGHTENING TORQUE FIGURES

3-4-5 =70 Nm / 7.1 Kgm / 51.63 ft/lb + Loctite 2436 =50 Nm / 5.1 Kgm / 36.88 ft/lb + Loctite 243

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J.8

CR 65 2012

1 2

3 4

CA

B

REAR SUSPENSION

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Chain roller, chain guide, chain slider Check the wear of the above-mentioned elements and replace them when necessary.

Check the chain guide alignment, and remember that a bent element can cause chain early wear. In this case, chain might unwrap from the sprocket.

1 Chain roller

2 Chain guide

3 Chain slider

4 Master link

Shock absorber adjustmentThe rear shock absorber must be adjusted according to the rider weight and the road conditions. IT is possible to adjust the shock absorber acting on the spring pre-load according to the rider weight.

The shock absorber adjustment affects both the stability and the handling of the motorcycle. We recommend to act carefully after having changed the standard setting. BEfoRE PERfoRMING ANy ChANGE WE REC-oMMEND to measure a reference value "A" with bike on the central stand and rear wheel lifted from the ground.

- have the bike resting on ground without rider. Measure dimension "A"; The difference between dimension "A" with the wheel raised off the ground

and dimension "A" with the wheel on the ground shall be 25÷30 mm (0.98 ÷ 1.18 in).

- have bike resting on the ground with rider sitting on it; Measure dimension "A"; The difference between dimension "A" with the wheel raised off the ground

and rider sitting on it shall be 60÷70 mm (2.36 ÷ 2.76 in).

B: silencer retaining screw axleC: rear wheel axle height

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L

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section

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L.2

CR 65 2012

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Braking system ............................................................................................. L.3Brake disc ..................................................................................................... L.4Checking brake pads for wear / replacing the pads ..................................... L.5Pads removal................................................................................................ L.5Pads installation ........................................................................................... L.5Bleeding the front braking system ................................................................ L.6Bleeding the rear braking system ................................................................. L.7Changing the fluid......................................................................................... L.8

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L.3

CR 65 2012

1

2

3

4

35

9

78

6

10

11

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Braking systemThe braking system uses two independent circuits. Each system is equipped with a brake calliper connected to a master cylinder with a fluid reservoir.

1. Front brake lever2. Front brake master cylinder with fluid reservoir3. Front brake line4. Front brake calliper5. Front brake disc6. Rear brake fluid reservoir7. Rear brake line8. Rear brake calliper9. Rear brake disc10. Rear brake master cylinder11. Rear brake control pedal

Page 116: CR 65 2012

L.4

CR 65 2012

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Brake discChecking the brake disc is an important safety procedure; the disc must be spot-less, i.e. free from corrosion, oil or other dirt or deep scoring.Front brake disc diameter: ....................................................................260 mmFront brake disc thickness (when new): ................................................3.0 mmWear limit: ..............................................................................................2.5 mmRear brake disc diameter: ....................................................................mm 140 Rear brake disc thickness (when new): ...............................................mm 3.10Wear limit: ..............................................................................................2.5 mmDisc warpage must not exceed 0.15 mm (check disc mounted on the rim with a dial gauge).To remove the disc from the wheel rim, you need to loosen the four retaining screws. On assembly, clean all mating surfaces thoroughly and tighten the screws to the specified torque.

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L.5

CR 65 2012

A

4

1

2

3

5

2

4

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Checking brake pads for wear / replacing the padsCheck brake pad wear.Service limit ”A” - 1 mm (front and rear pads)

If service limit is exceeded, always replace the pads in pairs.Be careful that no brake fluid or any oil gets on brake pads or discs. Clean off with alcohol any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc.Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.

Pads removal- Remove the retaining ring (1) on the front calliper or the split pin (5) on the

rear calliper.- Loosen the pin (2).- Remove the pads (4).

Do not work the brake lever or pedal while removing the pads.

Pads installation- Fit the new brake pads (4) having care to position the clip (3) correctly.- Screw the pin (2) and refit the retaining ring (1) on the front calliper, or the

split pin (5) on the rear one.

The retaining ring (1) is a safety component, so make sure it is properly fitted.

Acting as described above, after replacing the pads it is not necessary to bleed the system, just act the control lever several time until the pistons get in the normal position.

FRONT

REAR

Page 118: CR 65 2012

L.6

CR 65 2012

3 mm

3

2

A

4

2

1

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Bleeding the front braking systemA long travel and mushy feel of the brake lever indicate that there is air in the system and the brake needs bleeding.Bleeding procedure is as follows:- Take the rubber cover off the bleed valve (1).- Attach a clear plastic hose to the calliper bleed valve and place the other end of the hose in a vessel (make sure the hose end stays dipped in the fluid throughout the procedure).- Remove the reservoir cover (2) and the rubber gaiter and fill the reservoir with DOT 4 fluid.- Completely pull the lever (3).- Loosen the bleed valve and drain the fluid (only air at first), then slightly close the valve.- Release the lever and wait a few seconds. Repeat the process until you see only fluid coming out of the hose.- Tighten the bleed valve to the indicated torque, restore the fluid level (A) and refit the rubber gaiter (4) and cover (2) of the tank.

Fluid level inside the reservoir shall never drop below the minimum notch during the bleeding procedure.

Brake fluid is corrosive. In the event of contact with eyes, rinse with abundant water.

Motorcycle handlebar must be turned to the left during the bleeding procedure. This will keep the master cylinder reservoir higher, mak-ing bleeding easier.

If brake lever or brake pedal feel mush after a fall or a repair result-ing in loss of braking, bleed the circuit as described above.

Bleed valve tightening torque: 12÷16 Nm/ 1.2÷1.6 Kgm/ 8.7÷11.6 ft-lb.

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L.7

CR 65 2012

1

2

A

B

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Bleeding the rear braking systemA long travel and mushy feel of the brake pedal indicate that there is airin the system and the brake needs bleeding.Bleeding procedure is as follows:- Remove the protection cap and connect a clear hose to the bleed valve (1) of the calliper. Insert the other end of the hose in a container.- Remove the tank cover (A) (3 mm Allen wrench), the diaphragm and fill with fluid (DOT 4).- Press the pedal (2) fully down.- Loosen the bleed valve and drain the fluid (only air at first), then slightly close the valve.- Release the pedal and wait a few seconds. Repeat the process until you see only fluid coming out of the hose.- Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque and check fluid level (B) in the reservoir before refitting the cap (A). If the bleeding procedure was performed correctly, the pedal will no longer have that mushy feel. If not so, repeat the procedure.

Fluid level inside the reservoir shall never drop below the minimum notch during the bleeding procedure.

If brake lever or brake pedal feel mush after a fall or a repair result-ing in loss of braking, bleed the circuit as described above.

Bleed valve tightening torque: 12÷16 Nm/ 1.2÷1.6 Kgm/ 8.7÷11.6 ft-lb

Page 120: CR 65 2012

L.8

CR 65 2012

1

1A

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Changing the fluidBrake fluid should be checked and changed as per the "Maintenance Chart" (see page B.3) or earlier if contaminated with debris or water. Do not change brake fluid in the rain or with a strong wind.

Use only fluid taken from a sealed container (DOT 4). Never reuse brake fluid.

Avoid the ingress of contaminants such as dirt, water, etc. into the reservoir.

Do not keep the reservoir open without its cover longer than neces-sary; this would increase the risk of contamination.

Handle the fluid with care to avoid damage to painted parts.

Do not mix two brands of fluid. This would reduce boil-over point, leading to loss of braking efficiency or degrading of rubber parts.

Replacement procedure is as follows:- Take the rubber cover off the bleed valve (1) or (1A).- Attach a clear plastic hose to the calliper bleed valve and place the other end of the hose in a vessel.

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L.9

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3

3A

3 mm

A

B

2

2A

BRAKES

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

- Remove the reservoir cover (2) or (2A) and the rubber gaiter.- Loosen the bleed valve on the calliper.- Pump the brake lever (3) or the brake pedal (3A) until draining all fluid.- Tighten the bleed valve and fill the reservoir with fresh fluid.- Loosen the bleed valve, operate lever or pedal, tighten the valve keeping lever or pedal pressed and then release them.- Repeat the process until the circuit is full and you can see clear fluid coming out of the plastic hose: now tighten the bleed valve.- Top up with fluid up to level (A) or (B) and refit rubber gaiter and reservoir cover.After changing the fluid, you will need to bleed air from the circuit.

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M.1

CR 65 2012

M

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section

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M.2

CR 65 2012

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Wiring diagram ............................................................................................ M.3Electrical components location .................................................................... M.4Spark plug .................................................................................................. M.5Handlebar switches ..................................................................................... M.6Left-hand switch .......................................................................................... M.6Ignition system resistance values - stator.................................................... M.6Ignition coil................................................................................................... M.6Ignition static parameters measurement with peak voltage adapter ........... M.7Important ..................................................................................................... M.8

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M.3

CR 65 2012

Bobina di accensione

ECU G

3

black

red-white

ye-bl

orange

blackblack

blue-white

red-blackgreen-white

red-green

Pulsante di arresto

Generatore

pick up

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Wiring diagram

Cable colourbk : black bl : blue gn : green or : orange re : red ye : yellow wh : white

Stop button

Ignition coil

Generator

Page 126: CR 65 2012

M.4

CR 65 2012

1

3

2

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Electrical component locationThe ignition system includes the following elements:- Generator (1), on the inner side of L.H. crankcase half cover;

- Electronic ignition coil (2) under the tank on the chassis right side;

- Electronic control unit (3) on steering tube rake, behind the Number holder;

Page 127: CR 65 2012

M.5

CR 65 2012

4

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Spark plug The spark plug (4) is a "NGK" BR8 ECM spark plug. Check electrode gap "A" (0.6 mm). A wider gap may cause difficulties in starting the engine and overload the coil. A gap that is too narrow may cause difficulties when accelerating, when idling or poor performance at low speed. Clean off any dirt around spark plug base before removing the spark plug. It is good practice to closely inspect the spark plug after removal, as any deposits on it and the colour of the insulator provide useful indications on spark plug heat rating, carburetion, ignition and the general condition of the engine. Before refitting the spark plug, accurately clean the insulator with a wire brush. Smear some graphite grease on spark plug thread, do it fully home finger tight then tighten it to 10÷12 Nm torque. Loosen the spark plug then tighten it again to 10÷12 Nm. Spark plugs which have cracked insulators or corroded electrodes should be replaced.

Page 128: CR 65 2012

M.6

CR 65 2012

Bl-Wh

ON

OFF

Bl

1

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Handlebar switchesMeasure continuity on the different switches using a meter. Replace any part found to be faulty.

Left-hand switch1 Engine stop switch (1)

Ignition system resistance values - stator– Disconnect the stator plug and use a digital multimeter to measure the stator

winding resistances at 20 °C.

Impulse transmitter: across white/red cable and white/blue cable reading on multimeter: 310 Ω +/- 60 Ω

CDI unit voltage supply: across green/red cable and black cable reading on multimeter: 55 Ω +/- 10 Ω

Condenser charge coil: across black/red cable and green/white cable reading on multimeter: 900 Ω +/- 180 Ω

WARNING: it is not necessary to remove the stator to take the measurement.

Ignition coil– Loosen the spark plug cap and disconnect the cable that controls the pri-

mary side.– Measure the resistance of the ignition coil primary side across the plug con-

trolling the primary side and the ignition coil ground.

reading on multimeter: lower than 10 Ω a 20 °C

– Measure the resistance of the ignition coil secondary side across the high voltage cable and the ignition coil ground.

reading on multimeter: 7900 Ω +/- 1600 Ω at 20 ºC

WARNING: it is not necessary to remove the ignition coil to take the measurement.

POSITION

COLOUR

Page 129: CR 65 2012

M.7

CR 65 2012

2

1

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Ignition static parameter measurement with peak voltage adapterMeasurement conditions:– cold engine– remove the number holder– loosen the spark plug, connect it and keep it to ground– all connector couplings and connections to ground must be free of corro-

sion signs– for each measurement strongly press the kick start pedal at least 5 times

fully down.

Check if the impulse transmitter gives an output signal – white/red and white/blue cables:– the red prod of the peak voltage adapter on the white/red cable, the

black prod on the white/blue cable, then separate the connector (1); in this way the CDI unit (2) is disconnected.

reading on multimeter: 10 volt +/- 1 volt

– Same measurement, but with CDI unit connected reading on multimeter: 6 volt +/- 1 volt

Check CDI unit voltage supply on output voltage– green/red and black cables:– the red prod of the peak voltage adapter on the green/red cable, the

black prod on the black cable, then separate the connector (1). reading on multimeter: 40 volt +/- 5 volt

– Same measurement, but with CDI unit connected reading on multimeter: 35 volt +/- 5 volt

Check the condenser charge coil on output voltage –– black/red and green/white cables:– the red prod of the peak voltage adapter on the black/red cable, the

black prod on the green/white cable, then separate the connector (1) reading on multimeter: 270 volt +/- 20 volt

– Same measurement, but with CDI unit connected reading on multimeter: 230 volt +/- 20 volt

Check the primary voltage output that controls the ignition coilon the output voltage (orange cable):– the peak voltage adapter red prod to the ground, and the black one to

the orange cable, CDI unit and ignition coil connected reading on multimeter: 230 volt +/- 20 volt

WARNING: if upon one check it is not possible to measure a voltage value,we recommend to check the continuity across the cables before re-placing the parts.

Page 130: CR 65 2012

M.8

CR 65 2012

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

IMPORTANTBefore washing the motorcycle, it is necessary to duly protect the following parts from water:a) Rear opening of the muffler;b) Clutch and front brake levers, handgrips, handlebar switches;c) Air filter intake;d) Steering head, wheel bearings;e) Rear suspension drag drop link.It is necessary to PREVENT WATER OR HIGH PRESSURE AIR JETS from reaching the ELECTRIC PARTS.

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N.1

CR 65 2012

N

ENGINE COOLING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Section

Page 132: CR 65 2012

N.2

CR 65 2012

ENGINE COOLING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Coolant level check ......................................................................................N.3Cooling circuit ..............................................................................................N.4Engine cooling system overhaul ..................................................................N.5

Page 133: CR 65 2012

N.3

CR 65 2012

1

ENGINE COOLING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Coolant level checkCoolant takes the heat from the piston-cylinder-and-head assembly and transfers it to the radiator, where it is released to the atmosphere. Checking coolant level at regular periods is critical to ensuring proper operation of the cooling system.

Without cooling medium (water), no heat exchange occurs between cylinder head and radiator. The cylinder and piston assembly will overheat and seize and in the worst scenario, crankshaft damage may result.

If the event of engine overheating, check that the radiator is full.Level in the radiator must be checked from cold (see Section D).In the event you need to check level when the engine is hot, be sure to discharge pressure gradually.Loosen the plug (1) of the radiator to check the fluid level.

Failure to follow the above instructions will create a risk of scalding for operator and any persons standing nearby.

A. Coolant levelB. Breather hose

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N.4

CR 65 2012

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

ENGINE COOLING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Cooling circuit

The forced circulation cooling system uses a centrifugal pump (located to the right of the cylinder head) and two downdraft radiators.

1 Radiator cap2 Right-hand radiator3 Left-hand radiator4 Radiator to head pipe5 Water pump6 Breather hose7 Radiator connecting pipes 8 Water pump / radiator lower pipe9 Head / water pump pipe10 Coolant bleeding screw

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N.5

CR 65 2012

1

6

4

7

2

3

9

810

5

ENGINE COOLING

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Servicing the engine cooling systemIf the coolant runs too hot, check the radiators. Any foreign matter trapped between the fins (such as leaves, bugs, mud, etc.) will obstruct air flow and must be removed carefully to avoid damage to radiator. Straighten any bent fins to ensure free flow of air. If the cooling mass is clogged or damaged, no more than 20% of its surface must be affected. If damage exceeds this limit, the radiator must be replaced. Periodically check the connecting hoses (see Section B, “Scheduled Maintenance Chart”); this will avoid coolant leakage and consequent engine seizure. If hoses show cracks, swelling or hardening due to sheaths desiccation, their replacement shall be advisable. Check the correct tightening of the clamps.

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P.1

CR 65 2012

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

HYDRAULICALLY CONTROLLED CLUTCH

Section P

Page 138: CR 65 2012

P.2

CR 65 2012

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

HYDRAULICALLY CONTROLLED CLUTCH

Hydraulic clutch system .................................................................................P.3Draining clutch fluid .......................................................................................P.4Servicing the clutch master cylinder ..............................................................P.4Filling/draining the clutch hydraulic system ...................................................P.5

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P.3

CR 65 2012

5

1

2

3

4

8

7

9

10

6

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

HYDRAULICALLY CONTROLLED CLUTCH

Hydraulic clutch systemThe hydraulic circuit is composed of a master cylinder with its reservoir located on the left side of the handlebar, and a piston installed on the right crankcase half. The clutch is disengaged by the piston (5) that operates the pressure plate (4). Drive is transmitted from the crankshaft to the gearbox input shaft via the gear on the clutch housing (8). The clutch housing accommodates friction plates (9) and steel plates (10) that operate the clutch hub (6) secured to the gearbox input shaft.1- Clutch master cylinder2- Clutch lever 3- Master cylinder to piston hose4- Pressure plate5- Actuator piston6- Clutch hub7- Bleed fitting8- Clutch housing with clutch ring gear9- Steel plate10- Friction plate

The fluid used in the hydraulic circuit will damage painted parts if spilt on them. Handle it with care when servicing the system.

Page 140: CR 65 2012

P.4

CR 65 2012

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

HYDRAULICALLY CONTROLLED CLUTCH

Draining clutch fluidConnect a plastic hose to the bleed valve and loosen the valve turning it back by 1 or 2 turns. Remove reservoir cap and bellow diaphragm and operate the control lever until draining all fluid.

Clutch master cylinder servicingDrain the circuit, detach the master cylinder from the left side of the handlebar and take it apart. Replace all seals, reassemble the master cylinder and refit it to the handlebar. Reconnect the hose and fill fresh fluid into the reservoir. Bleed the system as described at page P.4.

Page 141: CR 65 2012

P.5

CR 65 2012

1 2

4

3 mm

A

3

3

5

65

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

HYDRAULICALLY CONTROLLED CLUTCH

Filling/draining the clutch hydraulic systemProceed as follows:- Remove screws (1), cover (2) and rubber diaphragm (4);- Remove the rubber cap (3) and loosen the bleed valve (5);- Connect the bleed valve to a pipe, and use a syringe (6) to fill in the fluid (of the type specified in the LUBRICANT TABLE at page A.9) until topping-up the master cylinder reservoir.

NEVER use brake fluid.

- Check that fluid level is never lower than 3 mm below the upper edge (A) of master cylinder body. Refit any parts you have removed.

- Make sure the clutch lever reacts properly when activated: otherwise, bleed again until removing all the air in the system.

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Section S

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FUEL SUPPLY

Carburettor setting ........................................................................................ S.3Original setting..............................................................................................S.3Main information about carburettor wear ......................................................S.3Idle rpm – A, Idle adjustment ........................................................................ S.4Valve opening – B ......................................................................................... S.4Partial load – C ............................................................................................. S.4Full load – D ................................................................................................. S.4Carburettor drawing ...................................................................................... S.5Removing and refitting the carburettor ......................................................... S.6Disassembling the carburettor ...................................................................... S.8Checking the cold start device...................................................................... S.9Checking taper needle and throttle valve ................................................... S.10Checking the floater needle valve .............................................................. S.10Checking carburettor jets and gaskets ....................................................... S.10Reassembling the carburettor .................................................................... S.10Emptying the carburettor bowl .................................................................... S.11Checking the floater level .......................................................................... S.11

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Carburettor setting

Original settingThe carburettor original settings are: 500 m altitude above sea level, temperature of nearly 20 °C, main use off-road and possibility of using premium grade fuel in Central Europe (RON 95, without lead), mixed with 2T oil. Oil-fuel mixture ratio at 3% during running-in phase, at 2% after running-in.

GENERAL RULE:high altitudes or temperatures ð lean mixturelow altitudes or temperatures ð rich mixture

– USE ONLY PREMIUM GRADE FUEL (NO. 95), MIXED WITH 2T HIGH QUALITY ENGINE OIL. OTHER TYPES OF FUEL CAN CAUSE DAMAGES TO THE ENGINE.

– FEW OR LOW QUALITY OIL CAUSES EARLY WEAR OF THE ENGINE AND, IN EXTREME CASES, IRREPARABLE DAMAGES. TOO MUCH OIL CAUSES EXCESSIVE SMOKE AND SOILS THE SPARK PLUG AND THE EXHAUST VALVE.

– TO GET A LEAN MIXTURE, CAREFULLY REDUCE THE JETS STEP BY STEP BY ONE NUMBER RESPECTIVELY TO AVOID PISTON OVERHEATING AND SEIZURE.

WARNING: If, despite the setting change, the engine does not work properly, check for mechanical faults or problems in the ignition system.

Main information about carburettor wearBecause of the engine vibrations the throttle valve, the floater taper needle, and the main nozzle are subject to high wear. Wear causes carburettor mal-functions (for example too rich mixture). Check and/or replace such parts every 100 operating hours.

Carburettor settings

Summer Winter

Maximum jet 240 210

Minimum jet 40 40

Taper needle position 3rd notch 2nd notch

Air screw turns 3 (from fully closed) 2 (from fully closed)

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B

C

D

A

Getto massimoSpillo conico

Spilloconico

Getto minimo

Getto minimoValvola

2

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FUEL SUPPLY

Idle rpm – A, Idle adjustmentOperation with closed throttle valve. This rpm is controlled by the position of the air adjuster screw (1) and the throttle valve stop screw (2).Any adjustment shall be carried out with warm engine only.To this end slightly increase the engine idle rpm through the throttle valve stop screw. Turn it clockwise to increase the idle rpm, or counterclockwise to decrease it. Work the air adjuster screw to get a regular and stable engine operation (air adjuster screw base adjustment = opened by 3 turns). Afterwards adjust the idle rpm again by means of the throttle valve stop screw.

Valve opening – BOperation with throttle valve during opening phase. Rpm are controlled by the idle jet and the valve shape. If despite a correct idle and partial pre-load adjustment upon valve opening the engine gallops, releases a lot of smoke and reaches its maximum power suddenly at high rpm, that means the car-buretion is too rich, i.e. the fuel level is too high or the main nozzle does not feature a proper sealing.

Partial load – COperation with throttle valve partially opened. Rpm are controlled by the taper needle only (shape and position). The operation at partial load at low rpm is determined by the idle adjustment and the maximum jet peaks. If the engine turns with one 4-stroke cycle or with reduced power upon acceleration with throttle valve partially open, it is necessary to lower the needle by one notch. If the engine knocks, especially upon acceleration and near high rpm, it is necessary to lift up the needle.If what described above occurs at the lowest rpm of partial load, have a leaner mixture if the engine gets flooded, or a richer one if the engine knocks.

Full load – DOperation with valve completely open. Rpm are controlled by the maximum jet and the taper needle. If, after a short distance at maximum speed, the sealant of a new spark plug appears very clear or white, it will be necessary to use a bigger maximum jet; if it appears dark or black, use a smaller one.

2

1

Taper needle maximum jet

Taper needle

Minimum jet valveMinimum jet

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CArBurettOr DrAWInG

1 Air adjusting screw2 Throttle valve spring3 Air adjuster spring4 Throttle valve5 Needle valve6 Taper needle7 Maximum jet seat

8 Maximum jet9 Minimum jet11 Cold kick start lever13 Floater bowl14 Floater + pin15 PVC hose16 Idle adjustment screw

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Removing and refitting the carburettor

WARNING: before acting on the carburettor, thoroughly clean the motorcycle.

– Close the fuel cock (1) and remove the pipe (2) from the carburettor.

– Remove the clamp (3) and release the carburettor breather pipes from the transmission oil breather pipe.

– Loosen the two screws (4).

– Remove the cover (5) of the carburettor together with the throttle valve.

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– Loosen the clamp (6) on the filter box connection unions.

– Remove saddle and side panels as described in Section "E".

– Disconnect the silencer from the rear chassis supporting plate.

– Remove the two lower screws (7) and loosen the two upper screws (8) that connect the rear chassis to the front chassis.

– Turn the rear chassis (9) to completely release the carburettor from the union (10) that connects the air filter.

– Loosen the tie (11) and remove the carburettor from the intake fitting.

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Disassembling the carburettorWARNING: Before starting disassembling the carburettor, prepare and clean the working area. Such area should be sufficiently big to arrange in an orderly way all carburettor single components.

– Disconnect all carburettor breather pipes.– Loosen the four screws (1) and remove the float chamber (2) with the relevant

gasket.

– Remove the floater (3) axle.– Remove the floater with the needle from the needle valve.

– Remove the maximum jet (4).– Remove the screw (5) of the floater needle valve body retaining plate (7).- Remove the minimum jet (6).

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– Remove the idle adjusting screw (8) together with the spring.

– Screw the air adjuster screw (1) fully home counting and recording the turns.

– Remove the air adjuster screw, the spring, the washer and the O-ring.

Checking the cold start device– To remove the starting piston (2) it is necessary to straighten the bent washer

to be able to loosen the retaining nut (3).– The cold start device must be easy to activate.

– The piston (4) must not feature evident scratching or deposits.

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Checking the taper needle and throttle valve– Check that the taper needle (3) is not worn out or deformed.

Because of the engine vibrations the throttle valve, the floater taper needle, and the main nozzle are subject to high wear. Wear causes carburettor malfunc-tions (for example too rich mixture). Check and/or replace such parts every 100 operating hours.

Checking the floater needle valve– Check for no dents on the needle valve sealing surface.– There must be no dirt between the valve seat and the floater needle.

Checking the carburettor jets and gaskets– Thoroughly clean all carburettor components and blow them with compressed

air.– Replace all gaskets and O-rings.

Reassembling the carburettorFor reassembly follow the removal procedure in the reverse order.Consider what follows:– Check operation and stop of cold start device.– Loosen the air adjuster screw by the number of turns previously recorded upon

disassembly. For carburettor original setting see section Technical data.

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21,1mm+0,00mm -0,50mm

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Emptying the carburettor bowl– Close the fuel cock and place a cloth under the carburettor able to absorb

fuel flowing out.– Open the closure screw 1, have the residual fuel flowing into the bowl, and

clean the closure screw with compressed air.Afterwards refit the closure screw with its seal and tighten it to 4 Nm; then open

the fuel cock and check for no leakages in the bowl.

Checking the floater level– Place the carburettor with the floater high horizontally.– The spring in the floater needle valve must not be compressed.– In this position the distance between the floater edge and the carburettor

edge must be of 21.1 mm +0.00 mm - 0.50 mm

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Section

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ignition

cylinder height

SPECIAL TOOLS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

SPECIAL TOOLS

HUSQVARNA CODE DESCRIPTION

1 8000 H7677 Crankshaft removing tool

2 Commercial Bearing puller

3 Commercial Insert for bearing puller 12 - 16 mm

4 8000 H7678 Primary gear retainer

5 Commercial Flywheel and clutch retainer

6 8000 H7679 Spark advance adjusting gauge

7 8000 46613 Flywheel puller

8 Commercial Puller

9 Commercial Pliers for cooling system clamps

1 2

3 4

5

6

78

9

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TIGHTENING TORQUE FIGURES

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Section

Tightenallnutsandscrewstothespecifiedtorqueusingatorquewrench.Ifnottightenedsecurely,anutorascrewmightbecomedamagedorworkitselfloose,causingdamagetomotorcycleandinjurytorider.Anovertightenednutorscrewmightbecomedamaged,itsthreadmightstrip,orthenut/screwmightfailandworkitselfloose.Listedinthetablearethetighteningtorquefiguresforthemostimportantnutsandscrews,whichhavedeterminedinaccordancewiththreaddiameter,pitchandspecificapplication.Thesefiguresareobtainedaftercleaningthethreadswithsolvent.

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DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Chain roller to chassis retaining screw M8 1 25 LOCTITE243Front low. and upp. engine retaining screw M8 2 35 LOCTITE243Enginelocknut M8 2 35 LOCTITE243

Rear chassis to chassis connecting screw M8 4 25

Stand support upper retaining screw M6 1 10 LOCTITE243

Coil to chassis retaining screw M6 2 10

Saddleengagementplateretainingscrew M8 2 8

Saddletotankretainingscrew M6 1 6

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

U-bolt to steering head retaining screw M10 2 35

U-bolt closing screw M8 4 28

ForkplateretainingTORXscrew M8 7 25

Forkguardtoforkbottomretainingscrew M6 6 6

Steering upper nut 10

1 Nm = 0.73756 ft/lb

CHASSIS

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Checknutforlugadjustment M6 1 10

Leverjointretainingscrew M6 1 10 LOCTITE243Brakelevertochassisretainingscrew M10 1 35 LOCTITE243

Camretainingscrew M6 1 10

Frontbrakehoseclamptoforkretainingscrew M5 2 6

Frontbrakehoseclamptoforkretainingnut M5 2 6

Gearshiftpedalretainingscrew M6 1 10

Clutch protection retaining screw M6 1 10

HANDLEBAR AND CONTROLS

FRONT SUSPENSION

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1 Nm = 0.73756 ft/lb

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Chainslideronforkretainingscrew M5 1 6

Rear chain guide retainers M6 1 10

Shockabsorbertochassisretainingscrew M10 1 70 LOCTITE243Shockabsorbertorockerarmretainingscrew M10 1 50 LOCTITE243Shockabsorberlow.andupp.locknut M10 2 50 LOCTITE243

Draglinktochassisconnectingscrew M12 1 70

Draglinktorockerarmconnectingscrew M12 1 70

Rockerarmtoswingingarmconnectingscrew M12 1 70

Rockerarmscrewsretainingnut M12 3 70 LOCTITE243Swingingarmpivotretainingnut M12 1 70 LOCTITE243

Rearbrakehoseringretainingself-threadingscrew 2 4

REAR SUSPENSION

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Frontmudguardretainingscrewwithcollar M6 4 6

Numberholderretainingscrewwithcollar M6 1 6

Frontmudguardpartconnectionscrew 4 1.5

Rearmudg.frontretainingscrewwithcollar M5 2 6

Numberholdertorearmudg.retainingscrew 2 1.5

Side panel rear retaining screw with collar M5 2 6

Sidepaneltorearchassisandtankretainingscrewwithcollar M5 6 6

Sidepanelfrontretainingscrewwithcollar M6 2 6

Filterboxcoverretainingscrewwithcollar M5 1 6

Clip nut M5 2 6

Wheelhousetorearchassisfrontretainingscrew M6 2 8

Wheelhouse to rear chassis retaining screw 2 1.5

Wheelhousetorearmudguardconnectionscrew 2 1.5

Wheelhousetoshockabsorberprotectionretainingscrew M5 2 6

Filter box to rear chassis support retaining screw 4 1.5

MUDGUARD FAIRINGS

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DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Frontbrakediscretainingscrew M6 3 10 LOCTITE243

Front wheel axle retaining screw M10 1 45

Frontwheelaxletoforkretainingscrew M6 2 10

Rearbrakediscretainingscrew M6 4 10 LOCTITE243

Sprocketretainingnut M8 5 35

Rear wheel axle M12 1 85

Rear wheel retaining nut M12 1 85

Chaintensioneradjustingscrew M6 2 5

Chaintensionerandadjustingnut M6 2 5

Frontbrakecalliperretainingscrew M8 2 25 LOCTITE243Rearbrakecalliperretainingscrew M8 2 25 LOCTITE243Rearbrakemastercylinderretainingscrew M6 2 10 LOCTITE243Rearbrakemastercylinderretainingnut M6 2 10 LOCTITE243

1 Nm = 0.73756 ft/lb

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Tankfrontretainingscrew M6 1 6

Cockretainingself-threadingscrew 2 1.5

SUPPLY SYSTEM

WHEELS AND BRAKES

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Vibrationdampertochassisretainingscrew M6 2 10

Vibrationdampertochassisretainingnut M6 2 10

Vibrationdampertosilencerretainingscrew M6 2 10

Silencertobracketretainingnut M6 1 10

Silencertobracketretainingscrew M6 1 10

Rearchassistobracketretainingscrew M5 2 6

Silencer end cap retaining screw M5 2 9

EXHAUST

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1 Nm = 0.73756 ft/lb

DESCRIPTION MEASURE QtyNOMINAL TORQUE

(Nm)NOTES

Radiator retaining screw M6 2 10

Radiatorretainingflangedlocknut M6 2 10

COOLING SYSTEM

NOTE:Unlessotherwisespecified,standardtorquevaluesforthedifferentthreadsizesareasfollows M5x0.8 5.6-6.2Nm 0.57-0.63Kgm 4.1-4.5ft/lb M6x1 7.6-8.4Nm 0.80-0.85Kgm 5.8-6.1ft/lb M8x1.25 24-26Nm 2.4-2.6Kgm 17.3-18.8ft/lb

ENGINE (+/- 5%)

Primarydrivesprockethexagonnut ............M14x1.25(+Loxeal100HSP) 70Nm 7.14Kgm 51.6ft/lb

Clutch hub retaining screw ..........................M10(+Loxeal86-54) 50Nm 5.10Kgm 36.9ft/lb

FlywheelflangednutM10x1.25/M12x1 ......60Nm 6.12Kgm 44.3ft/lb

Cylinderheadscrews .................................M7 18Nm 1.84Kgm 13.3ft/lb

Cylinderbaseflangednuts ..........................M8 18Nm 1.84Kgm 13.3ft/lb

Clutch screws ..............................................M6 14Nm 1.43Kgm 10.3ft/lb

Oilbleedingscrew .......................................M10 12Nm 1.22Kgm 8.9ft/lb

Clutchcoverscrews ....................................M6 10Nm 1.02Kgm 7.4ft/lb

Clutch hub screws .......................................M10 48÷50Nm 4.89÷5.10Kgm 35.4÷36.88ft/lb

Kickstartpedalstoppingplate.....................M6(+Loxeal24/18) 12Nm 1.22Kgm 8.9ft/lb

Stator screw.................................................M5(+Loxeal24/18) 8Nm 0.82Kgm 5.9ft/lb

Gearstoppingcamretainer .........................M6(+Loxeal24/18) 10Nm 1.02Kgm 7.4ft/lb

Sparkplug ...................................................M14x1.25 25Nm 2.55Kgm 18.4ft/lb

Enginecasingscrews ..................................M6(tobegreased) 10÷12Nm 1.02÷1.22Kgm 7.4÷8.9ft/lb

Otherenginescrews....................................M5 6Nm 0.61Kgm 4.4ft/lb

Otherenginescrews....................................M6 10Nm 1.02Kgm 7.4ft/lb

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INSTALLATION TOLERANCES AND CLEARANCES

Crankshaft ..................................................................max. drive shaft axes misalignment 0.050 mmHandwheel external measure ..................................... 57 mm +/- 0.05 mmConnecting rod big end bearing .................................max. radial clearance 0.030 mmMax. piston pin ...........................................................radial clearance 0.03 mmPiston ..........................................................................min. installation clearance 0.065 mmPiston ring ...................................................................max. gap 0.35 mmClutch springs .............................................................length when new 27 mmClutch plates ...............................................................wear limit 1.8 mmGearbox shafts ............................................................axial clearance 0.10 - 0.20 mm

NOTE: Unless otherwise specified, standard torque values for the different thread sizes are as follows (+/- 5%)

Steel screws on plastic, with metal spacers M4 2 Nm 0.2 Kgm 1.45 ft/lb

Steel screws on brass, copper, aluminium M4 2 Nm 0.2 Kgm 1.45 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M4 3 Nm 0.3 Kgm 2.2 ft/lb

Steel screws on plastic, with metal spacers M5 4 Nm 0.4 Kgm 3 ft/lb

Steel screws on brass, copper, aluminium M5 4 Nm 0.4 Kgm 3 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M5 6 Nm 0.6 Kgm 4.4 ft/lb

Steel screws on plastic, with metal spacers M6 6.5 Nm 0.65 Kgm 4.8 ft/lb

Steel screws on brass, copper, aluminium M6 6.5 Nm 0.65 Kgm 4.8 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M6 10.5 Nm 1 Kgm 7.7 ft/lb

Steel screws on brass, copper, aluminium M8 16 Nm 1.6 Kgm 11.8 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M8 26 Nm 2.6 Kgm 19.1 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M10 52 Nm 5.2 Kgm 38.3 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M12 100 Nm 10 Kgm 73.8 ft/lb

Steel screws on iron, steel M14 145 Nm 14.5 Kgm 107 ft/lb

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CHASSIS AND WHEELS

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Section

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CHASSIS AND WHEELS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Chassis ......................................................................................................... Y.3Lubrication points (lubricant) ........................................................................ Y.3Front wheel ................................................................................................... Y.4Front wheel removal ..................................................................................... Y.5Front wheel installation ................................................................................. Y.6Rear wheel ................................................................................................... Y.7Rear wheel removal...................................................................................... Y.8Wheel servicing ............................................................................................ Y.9Wheel axle warpage ..................................................................................... Y.9Axle runout over 100 mm ............................................................................. Y.9Wheel spokes ............................................................................................. Y.10Wheel rim warpage..................................................................................... Y.10Rear chain sprocket, secondary drive sprocket and chain ......................... Y.11Check for sprocket wear ............................................................................. Y.12

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ChassisThe single frame branches off at the exhaust and is made of steel tubes with circular, rectangular and ellipsoidal section; the rear chassis is made from light alloy.

A badly damaged chassis must be replaced.

Lubrication points (lubricant)1 Steering bearings (grease)

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CHASSIS AND WHEELS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Front wheel

Light alloy wheel hub and rim with high-strength steel spokes.

Make, type and size of light alloy wheel rims: 1.6x14”

Make, type and size of tyre.................................... "Pirelli" Scorpion...............................................................................MX 60/100 14" 29M NHS Cold tyre pressure ................................................0.8 Bar

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2

3

CHASSIS AND WHEELS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Removing the front wheel Set a stand under the engine and see that the front wheel is lifted from the ground.

Loosen the screw (1) placed on the left side;

Loosen the two screws (2) that fasten the pin head to the fork bottom on the right side;

Slide the pin (3) out from the right side and remove the wheel having care to recover the two spacers (one for each side).

Do not operate the front brake lever when the wheel has been removed; this causes the calliper pistons to move outwards.

After removal, lay down the wheel with brake disc on top.

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Reassembling the front wheel

Fit the wheel between the fork legs so as to set the brake disc into the calliper.

Working on right side, push the previously-greased wheel axle (3) all the way down, tapping it on left fork leg; during this operation, the wheel should be turned.Tighten the two screws (2) that retain the pin head to the fork.

Tighten the screw (1) on the fork L.H.

Remove the stand located under the vehicle

Act repeatedly on the front brake lever until bringing the pads against the disc.

Loosen the screws (2) of the fork bottom.

With front wheel braked, act several times on the fork to complete the leg align-ment.

Tighten the screws (2) to the specified torque.

Tightening torque figures

1: 45 Nm/ 4.59 Kgm/ 33.19 ft/lb2: 10 Nm/ 1.02 Kgm/ 7.37 ft/lb

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CHASSIS AND WHEELS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Light alloy wheel hub and rim with high-strength steel spokes.

Make, type and size of light alloy wheel rim: 1.6x12”;

Make, type and size of tyre.............................. "Pirelli" Scorpion; MX 12" 50M NHS

Cold tyre pressure .......................................... 0.8 Bar

Rear wheel

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3

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CHASSIS AND WHEELS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Tightening torque figures

1: 85 Nm/ 8.7 Kgm/ 62.73 ft/lb

Removing the rear wheelSet a stand under the engine and see that the rear wheel is lifted from the ground.

Unscrew the nut (1) of the wheel axle (3) and extract it. It is not necessary to loosen the chain tensioners (2); in this way, the chain tension will remain un-changed after reassembly.

Extract the complete rear wheel, keeping the spacers located at the hub sides.

Do not operate the rear brake pedal when the wheel has been re-moved; this causes the calliper pistons to move outwards.

After removal, lay down the wheel with brake disc on top.

For reassembly follow the removal procedure in the reverse order by inserting the brake disc in the calliper.

After reassembly, depress the brake pedal until the pads are against the brake disc.

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Wheel servicingCheck the wheel hub bearings for wear. If you find too much (radial or axial) clearance, replace the bearings as follows:- place the hub on a flat surface with an appropriate hole (for when you knock

out the bearing);- use a hammer and a punch to knock out the bearing; apply pressure only on

the inner race of the bearing (see figure);- tap at different positions so as to keep the bearing square in its seat;- remove the spacer and use the same procedure for the other bearing.

Discard the bearings after removal. Never reuse them.

Before installing the new bearings, check to ensure the seat is clean and shows no grooves or scratches. Lubricate the seat before installing the bearing. Drive the bearing into place using the special installer that only applies pressure to the outer race. Fit the spacer and the other bearing. Check for perfect alignment as you slide the axle into place.

Wheels should be balanced after each service.

Wheel axle warpageIf warped beyond the maximum limit allowed, the axle must be straightened or replaced. Replace the axle if it cannot be straightened so as to meet the maxi-mum limit allowed.

Axle runout over 100 mm

Wheel axle Standard Max. limit Wheel axle less than 0.1 mm 0.2 mm (0.0078 in.)

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Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Wheel spokesMake sure all nipples are firmly tightened (4.4 Nm, 0.45 Kgm, 3.2 ft/lb). Retighten if needed. Improper tightening will affect motorcycle stability; for a quick check, simply tap the spokes with the tip of a metal tool (such as a screwdriver): a clear, crisp sound indicates proper tightening, a dull sound means that the spokes need to be tightened.

Wheel rim warpageThe table below reports the allowed limits for wheel rim warpage. Exceeding runout or out-of-round are generally due to worn bearings. When this is the case, replace the bearings. If this does not solve the problem, change the wheel rim or the wheel.

Standard Max. limit

Side runout less than 0.5 mm 2 mm (0.078 in.) Out-of-round less than 0.8 mm

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CHASSIS AND WHEELS

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Rear chain sprocket, secondary drive sprocket and chainThe figure at the side shows the profiles of a normally worn and an exceedingly worn sprocket.

1 Normal wear

2 Exceeding wear

If the sprocket is exceedingly worn, replace it after loosening the five screws that retain it to the hub.

Chain and sprockets must always be replaced as a set.

Tightening torque figures3: 15 Nm, 1.5 Kgm, 11.6 ft/lb + LOCTITE 243

Page 174: CR 65 2012

Y.12

CR 65 2012

CHASSIS AND WHEELS

Workshop Manual Ed. 09-2011

Checking sprocket wear

Check the transmission sprocket for damage or wear. When worn down like the sprocket shown in the figure, it must be replaced.

Wheel misalignment causes abnormal wear, making the motorcycle unsafe to ride.

Dirt caked on sprockets and chain collected while riding on muddy or wet terrain increases chain tension. If you expect to ride on muddy or wet terrain, slacken the chain a bit. Riding on muddy terrain significantly increases chain and sprocket wear.