COSMETIC ingredients Application guide
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CO
SM
ET
IC in
gred
ients
App
lication gu
ide
CONTENTS
• INTRODUCTION
• GENERAL COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
• EMOLLIENTS
• APPLICATION GUIDE
• TYPICAL PRODUCT CHARACTERISTICS
• THICKENERS
• EMULSIFIERS
Industrial Química Lasem is a European Oleochemical producer. The company was founded in 1947, and since April 2011 is part of the Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd. From the beginning we have been providing solutions essentially for two sectors:
Cosmetics/Personal care, offering a wide range of emollients and emulsifiers, based mainly on vegetable and other renewable raw materials.
Industrial, offering esters designed specially for the lubricant industry, plastics, textile, inks and other sectors where a friendlier environmental solution could be required.
We are one of the largest fatty esters producers with a production capacity greater than 30,000 MT and an extensive portfolio of more than 150 different esters, including both commodities and specialities. Given our extensive history in oleochemistry, we are able to design new substances as per customer’s request.
We are active in more than 50 countries, either directly or through our local distributor or agent, and in Asia via our affiliated company Lasem Asia.
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
TECHNOLOGY
The new IQL facilities were set up in 2003. We designed a very flexible production site that operates with a reliable automated system. When drawing up the plans we took advantage of our more than 50 years of experience in producing esters and created technologically advanced reactors as well as the other needed production services. Different engineering design parameters were considered which now provide both soft and effective process conditions while at the same time a high degree of respect for the environment.
Operation units involved in the production of esters are:
Esterification
Neutralization/purification
Deodorization
Our commitment is for continuous improve-ment of the processes and the utilization of fewer natural resources when producing our high quality esters. Our aim is to produce under safe conditions and in a sustainable manner. The production site is certified ISO 14001 (environmental management) and has also been awarded the international quality standard ISO 9001. We manufacture some of our esters under HACCP requirements and we also have Kosher certification.
After listening to customer requirements and taking into account new social trends, we continue to expand our range of esters with the intention of providing even more sustainable solutions.
In recent years our approach has been to correlate chemical structure with functional parameters, leading us to develop a wide range of esters fully adapted to the customer’s requirements and providing the best solution based on natural oleochemical sources.
Considering the esters multifunctionality (Lubricity, Surfactancy and Solvency), and also due to the modularity when building an ester, we can design and create molecules that will perform a certain function.
RESEARCH, DEVELOPMENT AND INNOVATION
Saturated, highly stable, protection from oxidation.
EMOLID Formulated products Pre-formulated ingredients. Suggestions for concrete applications. Products developed for specific customer requirements.
SOLDOC Single component special esters
Substances with improved properties, high renewable carbon ratio. Cold process oriented.
DOCOIL Polycarboxylic esters Higher polarity. Esters with improved solvency.
Coconut, palm, branchedC8 and branched C9 esters
WAGLINOL Saturated or slightly unsaturated, protection from oxidation.
Unsaturated esters, higher lubricity.WEICHOL Oleates
TRADEMARK CHEMICAL FAMILY REMARKS
LASEMUL Stearates
genera
l co
smeti
c ap
plic
atio
ns
INC
I NA
ME
TRA
DE
NA
ME
CA
S N
UM
BE
RE
mo
llien
tSk
in
Co
ndit
ioni
ngM
aski
ngSo
lven
tP
erfu
min
gB
ind
ing
Em
ulsi
fyin
gSu
rfac
tant
Ant
ista
tic
Hai
r C
ond
itio
ning
Op
acif
ying
Vis
cosi
ty
Co
ntro
lling
Bu
tyl S
tear
ate
LASE
MU
L 74
NP
85
40
8-7
6-0
XX
XC
12-1
5 A
lkyl
Be
nzo
ate
WA
GLI
NO
L A
B 1
215
6841
1-27
-8X
XC
apry
lic/C
apri
c G
lyce
rid
es
WA
GLI
NO
L 92
80
9174
4-3
2-0
XX
XC
apry
lic/C
apri
c Tr
igly
ceri
de
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
928
07
3339
8-6
1 5
XX
XX
XC
etea
ryl A
lco
hol
ALC
OH
OL
260
6776
2-27
-0X
XX
XC
etea
ryl E
thyl
hexa
noat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
250
90
411-
68-0
XX
XC
etea
ryl E
thyl
hexa
noat
e (a
nd)
Iso
pro
pyl
Myr
ista
teW
AG
LIN
OL
250
M9
041
1-68
-0,1
10-2
7-0
X
Cet
eary
l Iso
nona
noat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
2559
84
878
-33
-1, 8
487
8-3
4-2
XX
XC
etea
ryl S
tear
ate
LASE
MU
L 26
09
740
4-3
3-6
XC
etyl
Eth
ylhe
xano
ate
WA
GLI
NO
L 24
259
130
-69
-7X
Cet
yl P
alm
itat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
2301
695
912-
87-1
XX
XC
etyl
Pal
mit
ate
WA
GLI
NO
L 24
216
54
0-1
0-3
XX
XC
oca
mid
e D
EA
LASE
MID
D 8
868
603
-42-
9X
XX
Co
cam
ide
ME
ALA
SEM
ID M
88
6814
0-0
0-1
XX
X
Co
co-C
apry
late
/Cap
rate
EM
OLI
D C
C23
06
-88
-9, 2
30
6-8
9-0
, 16
54
-86
-0, 2
30
6-9
2-5
XX
X
Co
co-C
apry
late
/Cap
rate
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
00
80
9591
2-8
6-0
XX
Dec
yl O
leat
eW
EIC
HO
L 15
8 N
3687
-46
-5X
XD
iiso
pro
pyl
Ad
ipat
eD
OC
OIL
DIP
A69
38
-94
-9X
XX
XD
iiso
pro
pyl
Dim
er
Dili
nole
ate
DO
CO
IL IP
DL
1032
13-2
0-3
XX
Diis
op
rop
yl S
eb
acat
eD
OC
OIL
DIP
S74
91-0
2-3
XX
XE
thyl
hexy
l Co
coat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
130
88
920
44
-87-
6X
Eth
ylhe
xyl I
sono
nano
ate
SOLD
OC
VF
971
566
-49
-9X
Eth
ylhe
xyl P
alm
itat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
1301
629
80
6-7
3-3
XX
Eth
ylhe
xyl S
tear
ate
LASE
MU
L 13
091
031-
48
-0X
Gly
cery
l Ole
ate
WE
ICH
OL
92 N
684
24
-61-
3X
XX
Gly
cery
l Ste
arat
eLA
SEM
UL
929
0 P
K91
052
-47-
0X
XG
lyce
ryl S
tear
ate
(and
) PE
G-1
00
Stea
rate
LASE
MU
L 4
092
910
52-5
4-9
; 90
04
-99
-3X
Gly
cery
l Ste
arat
e C
itra
teLA
SEM
UL
92 C
A91
744
-68
-2X
XX
Gly
cery
l Ste
arat
e SE
LASE
MU
L 92
AE
910
52-5
4-9
X
ww
w.iq
lase
m.c
om
Gly
cery
l Ste
arat
es
LASE
MU
L 92
N 4
091
052
-54
-9X
Gly
col D
iste
arat
eLA
SEM
UL
2/6
262
7-8
3-8
XX
XX
XX
XX
Hex
yl L
aura
teW
AG
LIN
OL
1021
23
431
6-6
4-8
XX
XH
ydro
ge
nate
d P
alm
Oil
LASE
MD
UR
PD
68
514
-74
-9X
XX
XIs
oce
tyl S
tear
ate
LASE
MU
L 24
425
339
-09
-7X
XIs
od
ecyl
Ole
ate
WE
ICH
OL
158
91
051
-29
-5X
X
Iso
nony
l Iso
nona
noat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
1449
N
F59
219
-71-
5X
XX
Iso
pro
pyl
Iso
stea
rate
SOLD
OC
60
HG
6817
1-33
-5X
XX
Iso
pro
pyl
Myr
ista
teW
AG
LIN
OL
601
411
0-2
7-0
XX
XX
XIs
op
rop
yl P
alm
itat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
601
614
2-91
-6X
XX
XX
XIs
op
rop
yl S
tear
ate
LASE
MU
L 6
091
031-
58-2
XX
XIs
ost
eary
l Iso
stea
rate
SOLD
OC
EB
29
416
69-3
0-1
XX
XM
yris
tyl M
yris
tate
WA
GLI
NO
L 21
414
323
4-8
5-3
XX
XN
eop
ent
yl G
lyco
l D
ieth
ylhe
xano
ate
SOLD
OC
VF
828
510
-23
-8X
XP
EG
-10
0 St
eara
teLA
SEM
UL
40
00
90
04
-99
-3X
PE
G-1
50
Dis
tear
ate
LASE
MU
L 2
/60
00
90
05
-08
-7X
XX
PE
G-7
Gly
cery
l Co
coat
eW
AG
LIN
OL
928
8 H
E68
201
-46
-7X
X
PE
G-8
Ste
arat
eLA
SEM
UL
40
0 9
00
4-9
9-3
XX
Pe
ntae
ryth
rity
l Tet
raca
pry
late
/C
apra
teSO
LDO
C V
F 4
/80
684
41-6
8-9
X
Pe
ntae
ryth
rity
l Te
trae
thyl
hexa
noat
eSO
LDO
C V
F 4
/872
99
-99
-2X
X
Pe
ntae
ryth
rity
l Tet
rais
ost
eara
teSO
LDO
C V
F 4/
18 H
G62
125
-22-
8X
XX
Po
lyg
lyce
ryl-
3 D
iiso
stea
rate
SOLD
OC
2/2
76 H
G9
04
31-2
5-7
XP
oly
gly
cery
l-4
Cap
rate
SOLD
OC
PG
410
1603
91-9
3-5
XP
rop
yle
ne G
lyco
l Dic
apry
late
/D
icap
rate
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
/76
80
6858
3-5
1-7
X
Sorb
itan
Tri
stea
rate
LASE
MU
L TE
S26
658
-19
-5X
Tric
apry
linW
AG
LIN
OL
3/92
08
538
-23
-8X
XX
XTr
ieth
ylhe
xano
inW
AG
LIN
OL
THE
X7
360
-38
-5X
XX
XX
XTr
iiso
nona
noin
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
929
5655
4-5
3-1
XX
XX
Trim
ethy
lolp
rop
ane
Triis
ost
eara
teSO
LDO
C 3
/13
468
541
-50
-4X
X
emollients
Our product range is based on:
•Monohydricalcoholesters •Polyhydricalcoholesters •Monohydricalcoholdiesters
emollientsfuncionality
Emollientsaresubstancesthatremaininthestra-tumcorneum toact as lubricantsadding sliporglideacross the skin.Theyhelp tomaintain thesoft,smooth,andpliableappearanceoftheskin.Emollientsareoften thoughtofas“filling in thecrevices” between korneocytes that are in theprocessofdesquamation(shedding).
Changes in skin moisture levels cause a reduc-tioninthebarrierfunction,whichinturnincreaseswaterloss.Emollientsproduceanoilylayerovertheskinsurfacewhichtrapswaterbeneathit(oc-clusion).Theresultingrestorationoftheskin’sba-rrier functionbyemollientspreventspenetrationofirritants,allergensandbacteria.
Estersarebiocompatiblesubstancesandnotonlyincreasethestaticskinwaterlevelwhenapplied,butalsohelptorestorethenaturalhydrophobicbarrier.
Additionally,estersareabsorbedbytheskinandasaconsequenceevenwhentheypresentanoc-clusiveeffect,leaveaminimalresidueontheskinsurfaceprovidingadryfeeling.
SEBUMETER7h.%Sebumskin
45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
Ester MineralOilProduct
emollientsapplication guide
IndustrialQuímicaLasemprovidescustomerswithperformanceemollientsthataredesignedfordiverseapplications:
•SkinCare •Creams&Lotions •Massageproducts/BodyOils •BathOils •Make-upremovers •FacialToners
•HairCare •Styling/HairSprays •Conditioners&Detanglingproducts •HairCreams&Pomades
•Toiletries •Aftershavelotions&Creams •Antipersistants&Deodorants •FoamBathproducts
•DecorativeCosmetics/Make-up •Lipsticks&Glosses •EyeShadows&Creams •Eyeliners •Powders&Blushes •Foundations(creamsandfluids)
•Suncare •Sunscreens •Aftersunlotions
ESTER: Vegetal Oil, Caprylic Capric Triglycerides and Natural Tocopherol.
%Hydration
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Time(hours)7,50,50 1 1,5 2 2,5 3 3,5 4 4,5 5 5,5 6 6,5 7
EsterMineralOil
CORNEOMETER
em
olli
ents
- a
pp
licat
ion g
uid
e
TRA
DE
NA
ME
FAM
ILY
INC
I NA
ME
Skin
Car
eH
air
Car
eTo
iletr
ies
Dec
ora
tive
Co
smet
ics/
Mak
e-up
Sun
Car
e
DO
CO
IL D
IPA
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
DiisopropylAdipate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
&Tone
rs);BodyCare
(Han
dcream
&lo
tions)
Styling/H
airSp
rays
Aftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
s;Sho
wer&
Bath;Antipersistan
ts&
Deo
dorants
Nailv
arnish
es;C
olour
cosm
etic
s
DO
CO
IL D
IPS
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
DiisopropylSeb
acate
Bodyca
re(h
andcream
s&lo
tions)
Aftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
s
DO
CO
IL IP
DL
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
DiisopropylD
imer
Dilino
leate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
Lipsticks&G
losses;
Powders&Blush
es
EM
OLI
D C
CMONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
Coco
-Cap
rylate/C
aprate
Facial,B
odyan
dBab
yCare(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
Sham
poos,C
ond
itione
rs
&Stylin
gSh
ower&Bath
ColourC
osm
etics
SunProtec
tion
LASE
MU
L 13
0MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Ethylhe
xylS
tearate
Bodyca
re(M
assage
produc
ts/B
odyOils)
Shower&Bath
Powders&Blush
esSu
nProtec
tion
LASE
MU
L 24
4MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Isoce
tylS
tearate
Shower&Bath
(Foam
bath)
ColourC
osm
etics
SunSc
reen
s-Ph
ysical
LASE
MU
L 6
0MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
IsopropylStearate
Facialand
BodyCare
LASE
MU
L 74
NP
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
ButylStearate
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
ts;
Styling/H
airSp
rays
Shower&Bath
(Foam
bath)
Masks,L
ipsticks
&G
losses;E
yesha
dows
&Cream
s;Eye
line
rs;
Eyepen
cils
SOLD
OC
3/1
34
POLY
HYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Trim
ethy
lolpropan
eTriisostea
rate
Massageproduc
ts/
Bodyoils;F
acialC
are
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
Lipsticks&G
losses
SOLD
OC
60
HG
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
IsopropylIs
ostea
rate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
Shower&Bath
(Foam
bath)
Lipsticks&G
losses
SOLD
OC
EB
29
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Isostea
rylIso
stea
rate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions);
Bodyan
dFac
ialC
are
(clean
sing
milk
)
Lipsticks&G
losses;E
ye
shad
ows&Cream
sSu
ntan
lotio
ns
SOLD
OC
VF
4/1
8 H
GMONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetraiso
stea
rate
Facialand
BodyCare
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
Persona
lwash
Lipsticks&G
losses;
Powders&Blush
esSu
n p
rote
ctio
n p
rod
ucts
SOLD
OC
VF
4/8
POLY
HYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetrae
thylhe
xano
ate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
ColourC
osm
etics
Sunprotectionproduc
ts;
Aftersun
lotio
ns
SOLD
OC
VF
4/8
0PO
LYHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetrac
aprylate/C
aprate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
ColourC
osm
etics
Sunprotectionproduc
ts;
Aftersun
lotio
ns
SOLD
OC
VF
8PO
LYHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Neo
pen
tylG
lyco
lDiethylhe
xano
ate
Facialclean
sing
(Mak
e-up
rem
over);Fa
cialC
are
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions);Fa
cialTone
rs
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
tsAftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
sLipsticks&G
losses;
Powders&Blush
es
SOLD
OC
VF
9MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Ethylhe
xylIso
nona
noate
Facialand
BodyC
are
(cream
s&lo
tions)
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
ts;
Styling/H
airSp
rays
Shower&Bath(Foam
bath);A
ntipersistan
ts&
Deo
dorants
WA
GLI
NO
L 10
212
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Hex
ylLau
rate
Facialclean
sing
(clean
sing
milk
):Fa
cialand
Bodyca
re
(moisturizingcream
s&
lotio
ns)
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
ts
ww
w.iq
lase
m.c
om
TRA
DE
NA
ME
FAM
ILY
INC
I NA
ME
Skin
Car
eH
air
Car
eTo
iletr
ies
Dec
ora
tive
Co
smet
ics/
Mak
e-up
Sun
Car
e
DO
CO
IL D
IPA
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
DiisopropylAdipate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
&Tone
rs);BodyCare
(Han
dcream
&lo
tions)
Styling/H
airSp
rays
Aftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
s;Sho
wer&
Bath;Antipersistan
ts&
Deo
dorants
Nailv
arnish
es;C
olour
cosm
etic
s
DO
CO
IL D
IPS
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
DiisopropylSeb
acate
Bodyca
re(h
andcream
s&lo
tions)
Aftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
s
DO
CO
IL IP
DL
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
DiisopropylD
imer
Dilino
leate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
Lipsticks&G
losses;
Powders&Blush
es
EM
OLI
D C
CMONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLDIEST
ERS
Coco
-Cap
rylate/C
aprate
Facial,B
odyan
dBab
yCare(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
Sham
poos,C
ond
itione
rs
&Stylin
gSh
ower&Bath
ColourC
osm
etics
SunProtec
tion
LASE
MU
L 13
0MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Ethylhe
xylS
tearate
Bodyca
re(M
assage
produc
ts/B
odyOils)
Shower&Bath
Powders&Blush
esSu
nProtec
tion
LASE
MU
L 24
4MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Isoce
tylS
tearate
Shower&Bath
(Foam
bath)
ColourC
osm
etics
SunSc
reen
s-Ph
ysical
LASE
MU
L 6
0MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
IsopropylStearate
Facialand
BodyCare
LASE
MU
L 74
NP
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
ButylStearate
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
ts;
Styling/H
airSp
rays
Shower&Bath
(Foam
bath)
Masks,L
ipsticks
&G
losses;E
yesha
dows
&Cream
s;Eye
line
rs;
Eyepen
cils
SOLD
OC
3/1
34
POLY
HYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Trim
ethy
lolpropan
eTriisostea
rate
Massageproduc
ts/
Bodyoils;F
acialC
are
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
Lipsticks&G
losses
SOLD
OC
60
HG
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
IsopropylIs
ostea
rate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
Shower&Bath
(Foam
bath)
Lipsticks&G
losses
SOLD
OC
EB
29
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Isostea
rylIso
stea
rate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions);
Bodyan
dFac
ialC
are
(clean
sing
milk
)
Lipsticks&G
losses;E
ye
shad
ows&Cream
sSu
ntan
lotio
ns
SOLD
OC
VF
4/1
8 H
GMONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetraiso
stea
rate
Facialand
BodyCare
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
Persona
lwash
Lipsticks&G
losses;
Powders&Blush
esSu
n p
rote
ctio
n p
rod
ucts
SOLD
OC
VF
4/8
POLY
HYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetrae
thylhe
xano
ate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
ColourC
osm
etics
Sunprotectionproduc
ts;
Aftersun
lotio
ns
SOLD
OC
VF
4/8
0PO
LYHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetrac
aprylate/C
aprate
FacialC
are(m
oisturizing
crea
ms&lo
tions)
ColourC
osm
etics
Sunprotectionproduc
ts;
Aftersun
lotio
ns
SOLD
OC
VF
8PO
LYHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Neo
pen
tylG
lyco
lDiethylhe
xano
ate
Facialclean
sing
(Mak
e-up
rem
over);Fa
cialC
are
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions);Fa
cialTone
rs
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
tsAftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
sLipsticks&G
losses;
Powders&Blush
es
SOLD
OC
VF
9MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Ethylhe
xylIso
nona
noate
Facialand
BodyC
are
(cream
s&lo
tions)
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
ts;
Styling/H
airSp
rays
Shower&Bath(Foam
bath);A
ntipersistan
ts&
Deo
dorants
WA
GLI
NO
L 10
212
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Hex
ylLau
rate
Facialclean
sing
(clean
sing
milk
):Fa
cialand
Bodyca
re
(moisturizingcream
s&
lotio
ns)
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
ts
WA
GLI
NO
L 13
016
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Ethylhe
xylP
almitate
Bodyca
re(M
assage
produc
ts/B
odyOils)
Shower&Bath
Powders&Blush
es
(Colourcosm
etics)
Sunp
rote
ctio
n p
rod
ucts
WA
GLI
NO
L 13
08
8MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Ethylhe
xylC
oco
ate
Cream
s&Lotions
ColourC
osm
etics
Sunp
rote
ctio
n p
rod
ucts
WA
GLI
NO
L 14
49 N
FMONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Isono
nylIso
nona
noate
Bodyca
re(M
assage
produc
ts/B
odyOils);
Skincare(A
nti-ac
ne
pro
duc
ts a
nd A
nti-
agingproduc
ts);Fa
cial
clea
nsing(M
ake-up
remov
er)
Aftersun
lotio
ns
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
/76
80
POLY
HYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Propylen
eGlyco
lDicap
rylate/D
icap
rate
Facialclean
sing
(clean
sing
milk
);Fa
cialand
Bodyca
re
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
Shower&Bath(Foam
bath);A
ftersha
velo
tions
&Cream
s
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
00
80
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Coco
-Cap
rylate/C
aprate
Bodyca
re(M
assage
produc
ts/B
odyOils)
Lipsticks&G
losses;
EyeLine
rs;P
owders&
Blush
esSu
n ca
re p
rod
ucts
WA
GLI
NO
L 24
2MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
CetylEthylhe
xano
ate
Skincare(cream
s&
lotio
ns);Fa
cialclean
sing
(M
ake-up
rem
overs)
Sun
pro
tect
ion:
Cre
ams
&lo
tions
WA
GLI
NO
L 25
0MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Cetea
rylE
thylhe
xano
ate
Skincare(cream
s&
lotio
ns)
Sun
pro
tect
ion:
Cre
ams
&lo
tions
WA
GLI
NO
L 25
0 M
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Cetea
rylE
thylhe
xano
ate
(and
)Iso
propylM
yristate
Skincare(cream
s
&lo
tions)
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
tsColourC
osm
etics
WA
GLI
NO
L 25
59MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Cetea
rylIso
nona
noate
Bodylotio
ns;F
acial
clea
nsing(c
lean
sing
milk
s)Su
n p
rote
ctio
n: C
ream
s &lo
tions
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
920
8PO
LYHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Tricap
rylin
Skincare(cream
s
&lo
tions)
Sun
care
pro
duc
ts
(Che
micalsun
screen
s)
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
928
0PO
LYHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Cap
rylic
/Cap
ric
Triglyce
ride
Massageoils&Bathoils
Foun
dations
(cream
san
dfluids)
Sun
care
pro
duc
ts
(Phy
sica
land
che
mical
suns
cree
ns)
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
929
POLY
HYD
RICALC
OHOL
EST
ERS
Triisono
nano
inFa
cialand
Bodyca
re
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
ColourC
osm
etics
Sun
pro
tect
ion
WA
GLI
NO
L 6
014
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
IsopropylM
yristate
Facialclean
sing
(clean
sing
milk
);Fa
cialand
Bodyca
re
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions)
Haircrea
msan
d
po
mad
esSh
ower&Bath;
Antipersistan
ts&
Deo
dorants
Lipsticks&G
losses;
EyeLine
rs;P
owders&
Blush
es
WA
GLI
NO
L 6
016
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
IsopropylPalmitate
Facialand
Bodyca
re
(moisturizingcream
s
&lo
tions).BathOils
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
tsPre-and
Aftersh
ave
produc
ts;F
oam
bath
Liquidand
cream
mak
e-up
.Foun
dations(c
ream
san
dfluids)
Suntan
lotio
ns a
nd c
ream
s
WA
GLI
NO
L A
B 1
215
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
C12
-15AlkylBen
zoate
Cond
itione
rs&
detan
glin
gproduc
tsAntipersistan
ts&
Deo
dorants
Sun
care
pro
duc
ts
(Phy
sica
land
che
mical
suns
cree
ns)
WA
GLI
NO
L TH
EX
POLY
HYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Triethylhe
xano
inFa
cialcare(Tone
rs)
Lipsticks&G
losses
Sun
care
pro
duc
ts
(Phy
sica
land
che
mical
suns
cree
ns)
WE
ICH
OL
158
MONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Isodec
ylO
leate
Facialclean
sing
:Mak
eup
rem
over
sPo
wders&Blush
es
WE
ICH
OL
158
NMONOHYD
RIC
ALC
OHOLEST
ERS
Dec
ylO
leate
Bodyca
re(M
assage
produc
ts/B
odyOils)
Tobestsuitfinalapplicationrequirementsspecificphysicalandchemi-caldatashouldbechosen.
It ispossible tocorrelate sensorial attributeswithphysicalpropertiesrelatedtothemoleculestructure.
emollientstypical product characteristics
Givenourextensivehistoryinoleochemistry,weareabletodesign new substances as per customer’srequest.
SensorialProperties
Physicochemicalproperties
MoleculeSubstancePreparation
Marketdemand
Moleculedesign
SURFACE TENSION
SurfaceTensionhasanimpactonthespreadabilityandthepenetrabili-tyoftheemollient.Thisparameteralsoaffectsthedispersingcapacityofanemollientaswellasevennessoftheemollient’sfilmwhenappliedontheskin.
SurfaceTensionisalsorelatedtovapourpressure.MoleculeswithlowSurfaceTensionaremorevolatile,andthisisoneofthereasonsforthefreshfeelingwhenusingsuchcompounds.
Moleculeswith lowSurfaceTensionmayactasMineralOil replacers,whilehighersurfacetensionresultsinmoreuniformfilmontheskin.
Emollients containing polar oxygen groups will show higher Surfa-ceTension.Branchedesterspresent lowerSurfaceTensionthantheirstraightchainequivalent.
emollientsperformance evaluation
SURFACETENSION(mN/m)
50 15 25 30 40 5045352010
wAGLINOL1449NF
DOCOILIPDL
SOLDOCVF4/18HG
SOLDOCEB29
wAGLINOLAB1215
wEICHOL158N
SOLDOCVF4/8
wAGLINOL13016
LASEMUL60
wAGLINOL20080
wAGLINOL3/9280
wAGLINOL3/9208
wAGLINOL13088
SOLDOC60HG
wAGLINOL2559
wAGLINOL2/7680
DOCOILDIPA
wAGLINOL6016
wAGLINOL6014
SOLDOCVF8
SPREADABILITY
Highly spreadableemollientspresent adry feeling,whileemollientswithalowervalueexhibitgreaterlubricityandamorepersistentemo-llientskinfeel.Howeverthelowspreadableemollientsaremorepro-tective.
SpreadabilitycorrelateswithSurfaceTensionandViscosity.
VISCOSITY
Theviscosityoftheemollientdependsmainlyonthemolecularsize/shapeandintermolecularattractiveforces.
More viscousemollientsexhibitdifficultywhen spreadingand sticki-nessafterbeeingapplied,while lightemollientson theskinpresentslipperinessandsoftness
POLARITY
Thepolarityoftheemollientdependsonthehydrocarbonchainbran-ching,chainlength,thepresenceofaromaticandoxygen-containinggroups.
Polarbranchedchainemollients arebetterdispersants forpigmentsand inorganic sunscreens
SPREADABILITY
wAGLINOL10212
wAGLINOL1449NF
wAGLINOL13088
wAGLINOL6014
DOCOILDIPA
wAGLINOL2559
wAGLINOL13016
SOLDOC60HG
SOLDOCVF8
wEICHOL158N
SOLDOCVF4/8
wAGLINOL20080
wAGLINOL2/7680
DOCOILIPDL
wAGLINOL3/9280
wAGLINOLAB1215
SOLDOCEB29
SOLDOC3/134
SOLDOCVF4/18HG
More
Spread
ability
em
olli
ents
- t
ypic
al p
rod
uct
char
acte
rist
ics
mo
no
hyd
ric
alco
ho
l est
ers
TRA
DE
NA
ME
MA
IN P
RO
PE
RTI
ES
Line
arB
ranc
hed
Satu
rate
dIN
CI N
AM
ESU
RFA
CE
TE
NSI
ON
(m
N/m
)SP
RE
AD
AB
ILIT
YV
ISC
OSI
TY
(mP
a.s)
Rel
ativ
e P
ola
rity
Clo
ud
Po
int
(ºC
)E
nd u
ser
ben
efit
s
liG
Ht
We
iGH
t e
ste
Rs
WA
GLI
NO
L 6
014
Read
ilyabso
rbed
into
theskin.A
ctsasan
emollien
t,lu
brica
ntand
ve
hicleordilu
entfor
activ
e in
gre
die
nts
XX
Isopropyl
Myristate
35.6
High
5.9
Low
4HighSp
read
ability
andLub
rica
tion
WA
GLI
NO
L 10
212
Fastspread
ing
emollien
tX
XHex
ylLau
rate
32.6
High
6Lo
w<
-5
HighSp
read
ability
EM
OLI
D C
CActsasadryfe
eling
emollien
twithve
rygood
mo
istu
risi
ng p
rop
ertie
sX
Coco
-Cap
rylate/
Cap
rate
37.9
High
6.3
Low
-10
Dryfe
eling,h
igh
spread
ability
and
mo
istu
risi
ng
pro
per
ties
SOLD
OC
VF
9Actsasalightfe
eling
emollien
tX
XX
Ethylhe
xyl
Iso
nona
noat
e32
.8High
6.7
Low
< -
30Dryfe
eling,
non-tack
y
WA
GLI
NO
L 14
49 N
FSo
ftemollien
tan
dfilm
fo
rmer
XX
XIsono
nyl
Iso
nona
noat
e30
.5High
7.1
Low
< -
30Silkyfeel.F
resh
feeling/coolin
g
effe
ct
WA
GLI
NO
L 6
016
Feelenh
acerand
so
lubilizing
agen
tX
XIsopropyl
Palm
itate
36.1
Med
-High
7.7
Low
12Dryfe
eling,
softne
ss,n
on-oily
WA
GLI
NO
L 13
08
8Actsasanem
ollien
tan
d
aso
lven
t.Film
form
erX
Ethylhe
xyl
Co
coat
e37.2
High
11.1
Low
< -
5Re
duc
edtac
kine
ss.
Non-occlusive
LASE
MU
L 6
0Dryfe
elingemollien
tX
XIsopropyl
Stea
rate
38.1
High
12.3
Low
20HighSp
read
ability
LASE
MU
L 74
NP
Actsasaemollien
tan
d
wettin
gagen
t.Pose
sses
frag
ranc
eso
lubilizing
an
dlu
brica
ntpropertie
sX
XButylStearate
39.7
High
12.5
Low-M
ed22
Greasines
sreduc
ing,G
lossaid
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
00
80
Actsasadryfe
eling
emollien
twith
highpen
etratio
n.
Sup
erfa
ttin
g a
gen
tX
XC
oco
-Cap
rylate/
Cap
rate
37.9
Med
ium
12.9
Low
15Med
ium
spread
ability
WA
GLI
NO
L 13
016
Actsastraditiona
lmed
ium-highsp
read
able
emollien
t.Posses
ses
solven
tpropertie
sX
XEthylhe
xyl
Palm
itate
38.3
Med
-High
13.3
Low
-2Plea
santskinfeel.
Goodspread
ing
propertie
s.Light,
silkyan
ddrytouc
h
LASE
MU
L 13
0Trad
itiona
lmed
ium/high
spread
ingemollien
tX
XEthylhe
xyl
Stea
rate
40.7
Med
-High
14.1
Low
10Sp
read
ing,d
ry
velvetyskinfe
el,
nonocclusive
SOLD
OC
60
HG
Emollien
tthatprovides
alig
htand
smoothskin
feel
XX
XIsopropyl
Iso
stea
rate
37.2
Med
-High
15.4
Med
ium
< -1
0Lightfe
eling,
smoothn
ess,w
hite
resi
due
red
ucin
g
ww
w.iq
lase
m.c
om
veg
etab
le b
ased
pro
duc
ts
me
DiU
m W
eiG
Ht
est
eR
s
WA
GLI
NO
L 25
0Actsasemollien
twith
goodsolven
cyand
a
non-oilyfe
elX
XCetea
ryl
Ethylhe
xano
ate
38.8
Med
ium
17Lo
w-1
Goodspread
ability.
Nongreasylig
ht
skinfe
el.w
ater
resi
stan
t
WE
ICH
OL
158
NEm
ollien
tsw
ithrefatting
pro
per
ties
XDec
ylO
leate
40.4
Med
ium
17Lo
w<
5Dryemollien
t
WA
GLI
NO
L 25
0 M
Dryemollien
twith
pro
tect
ive
pro
per
ties
XX
Cetea
ryl
Ethylhe
xano
ate
(and
)Iso
propyl
Myristate
36.1
Med
-High
17.2
Low
0waterre
sistan
t,light
feeling.P
rotection.
waterres
istant.
Nonsticky.S
hine
WE
ICH
OL
158
Lightemollien
tX
Isodec
ylO
leate
39.5
Med
ium
19.1
Low
< 0
Goodspread
ability,
fastabso
rben
cyand
no
n-oilyfe
el
WA
GLI
NO
L 24
2Actsasemollien
twith
goodsolven
cyand
a
non-oilyfe
elX
XCetyl
Ethylhe
xano
ate
37Med
-High
19.6
Low
-4Goodspread
ability.
Nongreasylig
ht
skinfe
el
WA
GLI
NO
L A
B 1
215
Can
helptoreduc
ethe
oilyskinfeelofo
ther
oilp
hase
ingredients.
Prov
ideex
celle
nt
solven
cyfo
rch
emical
suns
cree
ns.w
ettin
g
agen
tforphy
sica
lsu
nscr
eens
XC12
-15Alkyl
Ben
zoate
41.1
Med
ium
20.8
High
4Dry,light
non-greasyfeeling
WA
GLI
NO
L 25
59Trad
itiona
lmed
ium/high
spread
ingemollien
tX
XCetea
ryl
Iso
nona
noat
e36
.7Med
-High
26.2
Low
5Goodspread
ability.
Nongreasylig
ht
skinfe
el
LASE
MU
L 24
4Em
ollien
twithex
celle
nt
wet
ting
pro
per
ties
XX
Isoce
tyl
Stea
rate
31.5
Med
ium
41.5
Med
ium
-2Richfeel,
non-occlusive
SOLD
OC
EB
29
Actsasanem
ollien
t.
Posses
sesdispersing
propertie
s.Verygood
slipand
she
enX
XX
Isostea
ryl
Iso
stea
rate
41.6
Low-M
ed52
.4Med
ium
-5Nongreasy,
soft
ness
TRA
DE
NA
ME
MA
IN P
RO
PE
RTI
ES
Line
arB
ranc
hed
Satu
rate
dIN
CI N
AM
ESU
RFA
CE
TE
NSI
ON
(m
N/m
)SP
RE
AD
AB
ILIT
YV
ISC
OSI
TY
(mP
a.s)
Rel
ativ
e P
ola
rity
Clo
ud
Po
int
(ºC
)E
nd u
ser
ben
efit
s
liG
Ht
We
iGH
t e
ste
Rs
WA
GLI
NO
L 6
014
Read
ilyabso
rbed
into
theskin.A
ctsasan
emollien
t,lu
brica
ntand
ve
hicleordilu
entfor
activ
e in
gre
die
nts
XX
Isopropyl
Myristate
35.6
High
5.9
Low
4HighSp
read
ability
andLub
rica
tion
WA
GLI
NO
L 10
212
Fastspread
ing
emollien
tX
XHex
ylLau
rate
32.6
High
6Lo
w<
-5
HighSp
read
ability
EM
OLI
D C
CActsasadryfe
eling
emollien
twithve
rygood
mo
istu
risi
ng p
rop
ertie
sX
Coco
-Cap
rylate/
Cap
rate
37.9
High
6.3
Low
-10
Dryfe
eling,h
igh
spread
ability
and
mo
istu
risi
ng
pro
per
ties
SOLD
OC
VF
9Actsasalightfe
eling
emollien
tX
XX
Ethylhe
xyl
Iso
nona
noat
e32
.8High
6.7
Low
< -
30Dryfe
eling,
non-tack
y
WA
GLI
NO
L 14
49 N
FSo
ftemollien
tan
dfilm
fo
rmer
XX
XIsono
nyl
Iso
nona
noat
e30
.5High
7.1
Low
< -
30Silkyfeel.F
resh
feeling/coolin
g
effe
ct
WA
GLI
NO
L 6
016
Feelenh
acerand
so
lubilizing
agen
tX
XIsopropyl
Palm
itate
36.1
Med
-High
7.7
Low
12Dryfe
eling,
softne
ss,n
on-oily
WA
GLI
NO
L 13
08
8Actsasanem
ollien
tan
d
aso
lven
t.Film
form
erX
Ethylhe
xyl
Co
coat
e37.2
High
11.1
Low
< -
5Re
duc
edtac
kine
ss.
Non-occlusive
LASE
MU
L 6
0Dryfe
elingemollien
tX
XIsopropyl
Stea
rate
38.1
High
12.3
Low
20HighSp
read
ability
LASE
MU
L 74
NP
Actsasaemollien
tan
d
wettin
gagen
t.Pose
sses
frag
ranc
eso
lubilizing
an
dlu
brica
ntpropertie
sX
XButylStearate
39.7
High
12.5
Low-M
ed22
Greasines
sreduc
ing,G
lossaid
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
00
80
Actsasadryfe
eling
emollien
twith
highpen
etratio
n.
Sup
erfa
ttin
g a
gen
tX
XC
oco
-Cap
rylate/
Cap
rate
37.9
Med
ium
12.9
Low
15Med
ium
spread
ability
WA
GLI
NO
L 13
016
Actsastraditiona
lmed
ium-highsp
read
able
emollien
t.Posses
ses
solven
tpropertie
sX
XEthylhe
xyl
Palm
itate
38.3
Med
-High
13.3
Low
-2Plea
santskinfeel.
Goodspread
ing
propertie
s.Light,
silkyan
ddrytouc
h
LASE
MU
L 13
0Trad
itiona
lmed
ium/high
spread
ingemollien
tX
XEthylhe
xyl
Stea
rate
40.7
Med
-High
14.1
Low
10Sp
read
ing,d
ry
velvetyskinfe
el,
nonocclusive
SOLD
OC
60
HG
Emollien
tthatprovides
alig
htand
smoothskin
feel
XX
XIsopropyl
Iso
stea
rate
37.2
Med
-High
15.4
Med
ium
< -1
0Lightfe
eling,
smoothn
ess,w
hite
resi
due
red
ucin
g
em
olli
ents
- t
ypic
al p
rod
uct
char
acte
rist
ics
me
DiU
m W
eiG
Ht
est
eR
s
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
920
8
Posses
seshighpolarity
andverygoodsolubiliz-
ingcap
acityforcrystal-
lineUVfilte
rsX
XTricap
rylin
37.4
Med
ium
19.5
Med
-High
-5Sm
oothn
ess,
Soft
ness
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
928
0
May
actasMineral
Oilreplace
r.Prov
ide
exce
llentsolven
cyfo
rch
emicalsun
screen
s(oc-
tylm
etho
xycinn
amate,
ben
zophe
none
-3).wet
-tin
gagen
tforphy
sica
lsu
nscr
eens
XX
Cap
rylic
/Cap
ric
Triglyce
ride
37.7
Med
ium
28.8
Med
-High
-5
Plea
santafterfe
el
ontheskin.
Novisible
gre
asin
ess
ofskinsu
rfac
e
WA
GLI
NO
L TH
EX
Use
dtoco
unteractthe
defattin
geffec
tofthe
al-
coho
l.Dispersing
agen
tfo
r in
org
anic
sun
scre
en
pro
duc
ts
XX
XTriethylhe
xano
in38
.1Med
ium
52.5
Med
ium
-10
Tack
ines
sreduc
ing.
Non-greasy.Light
cush
ioning
effec
t
WA
GLI
NO
L 3/
929
Lightesterw
ithgood
spread
ingand
richfeel
forim
prove
dskinan
d
colorco
smetics
XX
XTriisono
nano
in38
.6Lo
w83
.11
Med
ium
< -
30O
ffer
s a
soft
, no
n tack
yskinfe
el
andlo
ngla
sting
lubrica
tion
TRA
DE
NA
ME
MA
IN P
RO
PE
RTI
ES
Line
arB
ranc
hed
Satu
rate
dIN
CI N
AM
ESU
RFA
CE
TE
NSI
ON
(m
N/m
)SP
RE
AD
AB
ILIT
YV
ISC
OSI
TY
(mP
a.s)
Rel
ativ
e P
ola
rity
Clo
ud
Po
int
(ºC
)E
nd u
ser
ben
efit
s
liG
Ht
We
iGH
t e
ste
Rs
WA
GLI
NO
L 2
/76
80
Lubrica
ntfo
rskincare.
Idea
lsolven
tan
dcou-
plin
gagen
tforfla
vors,
vita
min
s an
d fr
agan
ces
XX
Propylen
eGlyco
lDicap
rylate/
Dicap
rate
36.7
Med
ium
7.7
Med
ium
< -1
0Excellentlu
bricity
SOLD
OC
VF
8
May
beus
edasa
refres
hing
,non-vo
latile
alternativeto
cyclomethico
neX
XX
Neo
pen
tyl
Glyco
lDiethylhe
xano
ate
35.4
Med
ium
11.7
High
< -1
2Moisturazing
an
dgoodslip
propertie
s.N
on
greasylig
htskinfeel
po
lyhyd
ric
alco
ho
l est
ers
ww
w.iq
lase
m.c
om
He
AV
Y e
ste
Rs
SOLD
OC
VF
4/8
0Excellentbinderin
co
lourcosm
etics.
Long
lastingemollien
ceX
XX
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetrac
aprylate/
Cap
rate
39Lo
w83
.11
Med
ium
-3
Lowspread
ing
and
mo
istu
risi
ng
emollien
t,le
aves
arich
,silk
yan
d
nourishing
feel
SOLD
OC
VF
4/8
Film
form
erX
XX
Pentae
rythrityl
Tetrae
thyl-
hexa
noate
39.7
Med
ium
124
Low
-6Cus
hioning
effec
t
SOLD
OC
3/1
34
Excellentcus
hionan
d
playtim
eX
XX
Trim
ethy
lol-
pro
pan
eTriisostea
rate
45.6
Low-M
ed28
1.1
Med
ium
< -1
0Lu
briciusfe
eling,
cush
ioning
effec
t,
glossy,nontack
y
SOLD
OC
VF
4/1
8 H
G
Lowspread
ing
emollien
tex
trem
ely
slipperybeh
aviour
andgloss
XX
XPe
ntae
rythrityl
Tetraiso
stea
rate
45.8
Low
464.4
Med
ium
< -1
0
Greatocclusivity
andskinprotection.
Lubrica
nt.w
ater
resistan
t.Ultra-
glossy
TRA
DE
NA
ME
MA
IN P
RO
PE
RTI
ES
Line
arB
ranc
hed
Satu
rate
dIN
CI N
AM
ESU
RFA
CE
TE
NSI
ON
(m
N/m
)SP
RE
AD
AB
ILIT
YV
ISC
OSI
TY
(mP
a.s)
Rel
ativ
e P
ola
rity
Clo
ud
Po
int
(ºC
)E
nd u
ser
ben
efit
s
liG
Ht
est
eR
s
DO
CO
IL D
IPA
Actsasanem
ollien
t
andgoodsolven
tX
XDiisopropyl
Ad
ipat
e36
.5Med
-High
5.6
High
-6Sp
read
ing
, no
n-greasy,tac
kine
ss
DO
CO
IL D
IPS
Actsasadryfe
eling
emollien
twithhigh
pen
etra
tion
XX
Diisopropyl
Seb
acat
e37.7
High
6.2
High
0
Spread
ing,q
uick
pen
etra
tion,
no
n-greasy
(gre
asin
ess
red
ucin
g
propertie
s),w
hite
resi
due
red
ucin
g
mo
no
hyd
ric
alco
ho
l die
sters
He
AV
Y e
ste
Rs
DO
CO
IL IP
DL
Actsasanem
ollien
tan
d
dispersant.F
ilmfo
rmer
andpigmen
tdispersant.
Posses
seswater
repellenc
ypropertie
s
XDiisopropyl
Dim
er
Dilino
leate
49.4
Med
ium
190.1
Low-M
ed-9
waterres
istant,rich
feel,c
ushioning
effect,n
on-tack
y
veg
etab
le b
ased
pro
duc
ts
tHiCKeneRs
Substancesthatprovidebody, increasestabilityandimprovesuspen-sionofaddedingredients.
Thickenersenhancetheconsistencyandviscosityofcosmeticproductsandalsoimprovestabilityandmodifytheskinfeel,thereforeselectionofthecorrectthickenerprovidesbetterperformance.
Esterbasedthickenersmaypresentemulsifyingorgellingproperties,butbecauseoftheirbiocompatibilitytheyalsopresentamoisturizingeffect.
consistency agentsthickeners
TRADE NAME INCI NAME Melting Point (ºC)
HLB MAIN PROPERTIES
WAGLINOL 21414 MyristylMyristate 41 Usedinemulsionstoincreaseviscosityandimpartadrynon-greasyfeel
WAGLINOL 23016 CetylPalmitate 48Increaseviscosity,impartadryfeelandresultsindensewhiteemulsions.Usedtobuildstructureincosmeticsticks.Usedinhairconditioningcreams
ALCOHOL 260 CetearylAlcohol 50 1.9 Fattyalcohol.Actsasconsistencygivingagent.O/wco-emulsifier.Usedforviscosityregulation
WAGLINOL 24216 CetylPalmitate 54Increaseviscosity,impartadryfeelandresultsindensewhiteemulsions.Usedtobuildstructurein
cosmeticsticks
LASEMUL 260 CetearylStearate 57 Saturated,waxester.Actsastexturingagentandconsistencygivingagent
LASEMDUR PD HydrogenatedPalmOil 60 ConditioningandTexturingagent.Hydrogenatedvegetableoil
LASEMUL 2/62 GlycolDistearate 62 1.5 Actsasapearlingagentandasaopacifyingagent(shampoosandFoamBathproducts)
TRADE NAME INCI NAME Melting Point (ºC)
HLB MAIN PROPERTIES
LASEMUL 92 N 40 GlycerylStearates 59 3.4UsedincosmeticO/wemulsionsfortheviscosityadjustment.Actsasaconsistencygivingagent.
Foodgrade
LASEMUL 9290 PK GlycerylStearate 57 3.8 UsedincosmeticO/wemulsionsasemulsifierandasabodyingagent.Foodgradeproduct
LASEMUL 2/6000 PEG-150Distearate 56 18.4Actsasathichenerandauxiliaryemulsifier.Suitableinamphoterictypeshampoos,hairconditionersand
cleansingproducts
polar esters
vegetable based products
emUlsiFieRs
Emulsionsarethemostcommontypeofdeliverysystemsusedincos-metics. They enable awide variety of ingredients to be quickly andconvenientlydeliveredtotheskinandthehair.
waterplaystwomainrolesincosmeticformulations:
•Solvent,andvehicleforhydrosolubleactiveingredients•Freshfeelingduetoevaporation.
Thebestknowncosmeticproductsarebasedonemulsions ineithercreamsorlotions.Intheseemulsionssmalldropletsofoilaredispersedinwater (O/w)or smalldropletsofwateraredispersed inoil (w/O).Sinceoilandwaterareincompatible,emulsifiersareaddedtoproducethesmalldropletsandtopreventtheoilandwaterphasesfromsepa-rating.
Esters can be designed to act as Surface-Activematerials, and theyareclassifiedasNonionicEmulsifiers.Dependingonthenatureofthealcoholusedintheesterificationprocess,theymaybepredominantlyhydrophobicorhydrophilic,andthussuitableasw/OorO/wrespec-tively.Non-ionicemulsifiersarenotaffectedbywaterhardnessorpHlevels.
emulsifiers
HLB Value SURFACTANT FUNCTION MISCIBILITY IN WATER
1 - 4 Antifoaming properties Immiscibleorpoorlydispersible
3 - 6 w/o-Emulsifier Poordispersion
6 - 8 wettingProperties(7–9) Milkydispersionaftervigorousagitation
8 - 10 o/w-Emulsification(8–18) Stablemilkydispersion(upperendalmosttranslucent
10–13 Fromtranslucenttocleardispersion
13–15 Detergent ClearSolution
15 - 18 Solubilizer
Emulsifierspresentinthesamemoleculebothhydrophileandlipophileregions.Tobetterdescribe this “character”a successfulmethodhasbeendeveloped,theHLB method.ThelettersHLB stand for hydrophi-le-lipophile balance.
Inthismethod,anHLBnumberhasbeenassignedtoeachsurfaceacti-veagent,andanHLBrangehasbeencreatedforvarioussystems
emulsifiers - HLB
em
uls
ifie
rs -
typ
ical
pro
duct
char
acte
rist
ics
TRA
DE
NA
ME
INC
I NA
ME
Phy
sica
l fo
rmH
LBM
elti
ng P
oin
t (º
C)
Clo
ud P
oin
t (º
C)
MA
IN P
RO
PE
RTI
ES
LASE
MU
L TE
SSo
rbitan
Tristea
rate
Droplets
2.1
53Actsasnon-ionichidropho
bicemulsifie
r.Prov
ides
increa
sedvisco
sity.U
sedin
w/O
emulsions
WE
ICH
OL
92 N
Glyce
rylO
leate
Liquid-paste
3Use
din
the
form
ulationofcosm
eticw
/Oemulsions
SO
LDO
C 2
/276
HG
Polyglyce
ryl-3
Diisostea
rate
Liquid
5.5
-5Use
dasw/O
emulsifie
rincosm
eticemulsionsaswella
sointm
entsand
lipophilicstic
ks.P
EG-Free
WA
GLI
NO
L 92
80
Cap
rylic
/Cap
ric
Glyce
rides
Liquid-paste
5.5
Showsbac
teriostaticpropertie
s.Use
din
sha
ving
cream
s,
deo
dorantsan
dantipersistan
tsfo
rmulations
.Actsas
co-emulsifie
ran
dsolubilise
r
LASE
MU
L 4
092
Glyce
rylS
tearate(and
)PE
G-100
Stearate
Droplets
1152
Emulsifie
rforO/w
cream
san
dlo
tions
.Compatiblew
ith
mild
lyacidicemulsionsand
electrolytes
WA
GLI
NO
L 92
88
HE
PEG-7G
lyce
rylC
oco
ate
Liquid
110
Actsasanon-ionicsu
rfac
tant.U
sedassu
perfattingagen
tinsha
mpoos,sho
werand
bathpreparationsand
solubilize
rinskinclea
nsingpreparations,b
athoils,fac
ialc
lean
sersand
ha
irrins
es
LASE
MU
L 4
00
PEG-8Stearate
Paste
11.7
32Actsasanon-ionicsu
rfac
tant.U
sedin
cosm
eticproduc
ts
LASE
MU
L 92
AE
Glyce
rylS
tearateSE
Flak
es12
56Anionic-Nonionicem
ulsifie
r.Use
dasem
ulsifie
rinthe
form
ulationofO
/wcream
s
LASE
MU
L 92
CA
Glyce
rylS
tearate
Cit
rate
Flak
es12
58PE
Gfree
emulsifyer.Use
dfo
rO/w
cream
s,lo
tionsand
wipesfo
rfacialand
bodyca
re,s
unscreen
san
dAftersun
ca
re
SOLD
OC
PG
410
Polyglyce
ryl-4Cap
rate
Liquid
14.5
-5PE
Gfree
,non-irritantand
naturalderived
cosm
eticO
/w
emulsifie
r.water-solublere-fatten
ingemollien
twith
exce
llentsolubilising
propertie
s
LASE
MU
L 4
00
0PE
G-100
Stearate
Droplets
17.9
52ActsasahighHLB
emulsifie
ran
demulsifie
rO/w
. Po
sses
sesdispersantpropertie
s.Offersstab
ilityto
moderatelystrong
acidsan
dalkalis
veg
etab
le b
ased
pro
duc
ts
ww
w.iq
lase
m.c
om
Pol. Ind. Pla del CamíAv. de la Indústria, 7 08297 Castellgalí (Barcelona) SPAINTel. + 34 938 758 840 Fax + 34 938 758 [email protected]
rbco
mun
icac
io.n
et
902
575
980
RNM
The data disclosed at this brochure it is given in good faith but the values or proposals does not guarantee the good operation. The users of the products are responsible of how they use the products. Proposals for uses in applications are only suggestions.
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