3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Facial care 10 a Andrea Weber, Dr. Babor: Active sub- stances – The moisturiser makes a comeback 12 Interview with representatives from Cognis/ LS, Dermatest, Dow Corning, Mibelle and Symrise: Facial care – Current trends 16 New Products MARKETING 18 Carla Ogeia, Mintel: International launches 20 Dr. Jörg Grünwald, Analyze & Realize: Effective ingredients for beauty foods 22 a Dr. Adolf Klenk, Dr. Kurt Wolff: Patents – Effective protection for innovations 24 Star of the Month: A handy home beauty salon 26 Helena de la Joya, Health and Beauty Spain: The Spanish personal care market – A growing beauty care market PRODUCTION 28 a 25th IFSCC Congress in Barcelona – The latest findings in cosmetic science 30 Packaging News 34 HBA in New York 36 a Gregor Spengler, ETMA: Tubes – Awards for unusual visual and tactile effects 38 France – A packaging market packed with potential 40 New Ingredients SERVICES 6 Download List 42 Essential Oils: World Markets 44 Essential Oils: Price List 46 Formulations: Body care 48 23rd BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH – A glittering cascade of new ideas 50 Events Diary 52 Book Shop 54 International B2B Exchange 58 Suppliers’ Guide 64 Company Index 64 Advertisers’ Index 65 Masthead Page 66 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Babor Contents 12 I The latest trends in facial care are outlined by raw material suppliers and dermatologists 10 I Andrea Weber of Babor explains how the most important new moisturisers work 22 I Innovations can be given patent protection, but patents can also con- strain one’s competitors 36 I The prize-win- ners of the tube com- petition were charac- terised by new visual and tactile effects www.cossma.com
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3 Editorial
K NEWS
8 Markets + Profiles
K FOCUS Facial care
10 a Andrea Weber, Dr. Babor: Active sub-
stances – The moisturiser makes a comeback
12 Interview with representatives from Cognis/
LS, Dermatest, Dow Corning, Mibelle and
Symrise: Facial care – Current trends
16 New Products
K MARKETING
18 Carla Ogeia, Mintel: International launches
20 Dr. Jörg Grünwald, Analyze & Realize:
Effective ingredients for beauty foods
22 a Dr. Adolf Klenk, Dr. Kurt Wolff:
Patents – Effective protection for innovations
24 Star of the Month: A handy home beauty salon
26 Helena de la Joya, Health and Beauty Spain:
The Spanish personal care market – A growing
beauty care market
K PRODUCTION
28 a 25th IFSCC Congress in Barcelona –
The latest findings in cosmetic science
30 Packaging News
34 HBA in New York
36 a Gregor Spengler, ETMA: Tubes –
Awards for unusual visual and tactile effects
38 France – A packaging market packed
with potential
40 New Ingredients
K SERVICES
6 Download List
42 Essential Oils: World Markets
44 Essential Oils: Price List
46 Formulations: Body care
48 23rd BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH –
A glittering cascade of new ideas
50 Events Diary
52 Book Shop
54 International B2B Exchange
58 Suppliers’ Guide
64 Company Index
64 Advertisers’ Index
65 Masthead Page
66 Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Babor
Contents
12 I The latest trends in facial care are outlinedby raw material suppliers and dermatologists
10 I Andrea Weberof Babor explains howthe most important newmoisturisers work
22 I Innovations canbe given patent protection,but patents can also con-strain one’s competitors
36 I The prize-win-
ners of the tube com-
petition were charac-
terised by new visual
and tactile effects
www.cossma.com
SYN®AKE – Age Killing Effect.
gru
ne
r b
re
nn
eis
en
com
munic
atio
ns
SYN®AKE – mimics the activity
of Waglerin 1, a protein found
in the venom of the Temple Viper,
Tropidolaemus wagleri.
SYN®AKE – a synthetic
tripeptide with excellent
antiwrinkle properties.
Registered as DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Branch Pentapharm
Engelgasse 109, P. O. Box, CH4002 Basel/Switzerland, Phone: +41 61706 48 48, Fax: +41 61319 96 19, www.pentapharm.com
2006
Finished products:
Innovative products, selected by Mintel
a SpinLash Mascara
a Grains de Beauté Déo Clim’ Régulateur
a Self-Tanning Facial Cream
Best of Summer
Topic+Oral Longevity Formula
Body Sculpturing Concentrate
Caress Cream for Buttocks
Baroque Bleu Perfume Gel
In-shower moisture lotion Ultra Sheer
Beauty Wrap
Brush Foundation
Felted Moisturizing Soap
Mood Swing Lip Gloss
Diamond Gloss Shampoo
Color Quick by Sally Hansen
Glitter Magic Sparkle by Nair Teens
n Company Profiles: Sara Lee
Cognis: Background Feelosophy
SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES AND STUDIES
a New complex to beat stretch marks
In-vitro study results Vanistry
Mouth odor and its treatment
Background information mouth odor
treatment
A better future for your skin:
Preventive cosmetics
Scientific version with charts
Laboratory technology: Measuring the
viscosity of cosmetics products
Scient. Version with charts
Chart: Viscosity in creams
Chart: Shear rates
Hair Care:
Natural anti-ageing much in demand
Extended version of the trend statements
of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, Silab,
National Starch
REFERENCES:
Dangerous Nanotechnology?
A lot of fuss about nothing
References
Soil Association: Press Information and
background info on nano materials
Emulsifier blend makes it possible:
Plant-based W/O formulations
References
Cell-active folic acid:
References
SUPPLIER LISTINGS
Service Providers international
Address listing
Natural Cosmetics:
Supplier listing ingredients and
packaging
Contract Services International
Address listing
a Ingredient Providers International
Address listing
Packaging Providers International
Address listing
MARKET DATA AND STUDIES
n by country
France: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries
Latin America:
Market Cosmetics & Toiletries
Germany: Personal Care Market 2007
Geo cosmetics:
Detailed description of the study
Eastern Europe:
Market Data Cosmetic Market
Russia: Data on cosmetic market
Spain: Market shares by segments,
companies and brands
n by segments
Finished Products:
Market data and Studies
a Color Cosmetics Market:
Brand Shares Ranking
Fine Fragrance: Data premium and
mass market world-wide
Hair Care: Market data world-wide
Body Care: Market data by
segments and countries
Natural Cosmetics: Market data,
list of products recently launched
(international)
Sun Care/ Sun Protection:
Market data international
Download more:
go to:
www.cossma.com/
downloadCONTENTSYour access codes for th
is month:
User: cossma9
password: face
Now available on-line for subscribers!Additional information, ready to
contains natural bioactive polypeptides (Cytokines) obtained from milk. These cytokines are the key regulators of cell functions. They enable cells to react on changes very fast and efficiently. One example of this is TGF (Transforming Growth Factor ) which has been identified in its active form in MPC™.
MPC™ – Milk Peptide Complex
is a strong activator of regenerative cell functions. It acts as a booster of collagen synthesis and that of other Extracellular Matrix (ECM) compounds leading to a reorganization of the ECM. In vivo tests have shown that MPC™ shortly reduces wrinkle depths and skin roughness. MPC™ also fights cellulite by stimulating production of connective tissue components, thereby increasing firmness and thickness of the skin.
for fine cosmetics · since 1926
CLRChemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin · Germany
Tel +49 (0)30 8510260
info@clrberlin.com
www.clrberlin.com
MPC™– Milk Peptide Complex
reduces the visible signs
of skin aging and helps
the skin to regenerate.
the multifunctional cosmetic active
MPC™ – Milk Peptide Complex
CLR Product Groups
Antiaging
Preventive Care
Sensitive & Problem Skin
Impure Skin
Moisturizer
Hair Care
Botanical Oils
PPR www.ppr.com p. 24
Prada www.prada.com p. 24
Procter & Gamble www.pg.com pp. 18, 24
Puig www.puig.com p. 24
Quadpack www.quadpack.net p. 30
Rahn www.rahn-group.com p. 10
Revlonwww.revlon.com p. 8
Rexam www.rexam.com pp. 30, 34
Rossmann www.rossmann.de p. 8
RPC www.rpc-group.com p. 34
Sederma www.sederma.fr pp. 10, 40
Seppic www.seppic.com pp. 10, 28
Shiseido www.shiseido.com p. 24
Silab www.silab.fr p. 34
Sisternawww.sisterna.com p. 46
Soliance www.soliance.com pp. 10, 40
Southern Cross Botanicalswww.scbotanicals.com.au p. 46
Stanpa www.stanpa.com p. 24
Straticell www.straticell.com p. 28
Stropolwww.stropol.com p. 30
Symrise www.symrise.com p. 12
Thalgo www.thalgo.de p. 8
Tubexwww.tubex.de p. 36
Unilever www.unilever.com p. 12
Unipexwww.unipex.com p. 46
Vichywww.vichy.com pp. 16, 36
Adolf Hopfwww.hopf.de p. 30
Aerosol Forum www.aerosol-forum.com p. 30
Alban Mullerwww.albanmuller.com p. 40
Alcan www.alcanpackaging.com pp. 30, 36
Alltub www.alltub.com p. 36
Alpaflor www.pentapharm.com p. 8
Analyze + realize AG www.analyze-realize.com p. 20
Art & Fragrancewww.art-fragrance.com p. 8
Avon www.avon.com p. 16
Babor www.babor.de p. 10
Bourjoiswww.bourjois.com p. 18
Budelpack www.budelpack.com p. 8
Carolina Herrera www.carolinaherrera.com p. 24
Chanel www.chanel.com p. 24
Chemyunion www.chemyunion.com.br p. 10
Clariantwww.clariant.com p. 28
Clarinol www.clarinol.com p. 20
Clarins www.clarins.com p. 24
Clinique www.clinique.com p. 16
CLRwww.clr-berlin.de p. 10
Codif www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com p. 10
Cognis www.cognis.com pp. 12, 20
ColepCCLwww.colepccl.com p. 8
Continental Packaging www.continentalpackagingsolutions.com p. 34
Cosnova www.cosnova.de p. 8
Courage + Khazaka www.courage-khazaka.de p. 28
Dermatest www.dermatest.de p. 12
Dessange www.dessange.com p. 8
Diapharma www.diapharma.com p. 8
Dmwww.dm-drogeriemarkt.de p. 8
Dow Chemicalwww.dow.com p. 8
Dow Corning www.dowcorning.com pp. 12, 28, 46
Dr. Kurt Wolffwww.alcina.de p. 22
Dr. Straetmanswww.dr-straetmans.de p. 40
DRV-Phytolab www.drvsa.com p. 24
DSM www.dsm.com p. 28
EAFA www.alufoil.org p. 30
Edelmann www.edelmann.de p. 30
Emballagewww.emballageweb.com p. 38
ESK Ceramicswww.esk.com p. 40
Estée Lauder www.esteelauder.com p. 24
Etma www.etma-online.org p. 36
Frutarom www.frutarom.com p. 20
Givenchy www.givenchy.com p. 30
Glaxo SmithKline www.gsk.com p. 30
HallStarwww.hallstar.com p. 8
HBAwww.hbaexpo.com p. 34
Health and Beauty Spain www.health-and-beauty.es p. 24
Henkelwww.henkel.com p. 8
Hochschule Ostwestfalen-Lippewww.hs-owl.de p. 8
IBRwww.ibrweb.com p. 30
IFF www.iff.com p. 8
IFSCC www.ifscc.org p. 28
Impag www.impag.ch pp. 8, 40
Induchem www.induchem.com pp. 8, 28
Infinitec www.infinitec-activos.com p. 10
Innovation Network Austria www.inna.at p. 30
ISP www.ispcorp.com p. 28
Jo Wood www.jowoodorganics.com p. 30
Kao www.kaochemicals.de p. 30
Kaufland www.kaufland.de p. 8
Kneippwww.kneipp.de p. 36
L’Oréal www.loreal.com pp. 8, 24
Lab. Sérobiologiques www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com pp. 12, 28, 40
Lancaster www.lancaster-beauty.com pp. 24
Lancôme www.lancome.com p. 30
Lipotec www.lipotec.com p. 10
Lise Watier www.lisewatier.com p. 30
LVMH www.lvmh.com p. 24
Mary Kay www.marykay.com p. 16
Merck www.cosmetic.merck.de p. 28
Mibelle www.mibellebiochemistry.com p. 12
Mintel www.mintel.com pp. 18, 20
Neutrogenawww.neutrogena.com p. 18
Nielsen www.acnielsen.com p. 24
Nina Ricci www.ninaricci.com p. 24
NPD www.npd.com p. 8
Paco Rabanne www.pacorabanne.com p. 24
Pantenewww.pantene.com p. 18
Pentapharm www.pentapharm.com p. 8
Phenionwww.phenion.com p. 8
Plasticumwww.plasticumgroup.com p. 8
Company
Index
Advertisers’
Index
64 COSSMA 9I2008
Rexam Airspray International B.V.www.rexamairspray.com p. 25
BASF AGwww.personal-care.basf.com p. 35
Bayer MaterialScience AGwww.bayercosmetics.com p. 2
S. Black GmbHwww.sblack.com p. 30
bomo trendline innovative Cosmetic GmbHwww.bomo-trendline.de p. 39
CLR Chem. LaboratoriumDr. Kurt Richter GmbHwww.clr-berlin.com p. 68
Daiichi Fine Chemical Europe GmbHwww.daiichi.de p. 21
DSM Nutritional Products Ltd.www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com pp. 17, 56, 57
DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharmwww.pentapharm.com p. 5
Emballage World Packaging Exhibitionwww.emballageweb.com p. 49
Fire and Ice Wellness GmbHwww.fire-ice-wellness.com p. 55
Greentech S.A.www.greentech.fr p. 40
HLP Clear Packaging Productswww.hlp-verpackung.com p. 19
Industrias Perfumwww.perfum.es p. 23
ISP International Specialty Products www.ispcorp.com p. 7
Paul Kaders GmbHwww.kaders.de p. 30
Kolb Distribution Ltd.www.kolb.ch p. 15
Sigmund Lindner GmbHwww.sigmund-lindner.com p. 47
Louvrette GmbHwww.louvrette.de p. 33
Lutz GmbH & Co.KGwww.lutz-packaging.de p. 27
Mani GmbHwww.mani-gmbh.com p. 23
NürnbergMesse GmbHwww.technopharm.de p. 29
Pago Ettiketiersysteme GmbHwww.pagoaich.de p. 37
Rahn AGwww.rahn-group.com p. 55
Rovi Cosmetics International GmbHwww.ROVIcosmetics.de p. 41
Sepawa Vereinigung der Seifen- u. Waschmittelfachleute e.V.www.sepawa.com p. 45
Dr. Straetmans GmbHwww.dr-straetmans.de p. 13
Terco Inc.www.terco.com p. 31
Trichema AGwww.trichema.ch p. 43
Wittmann Druck + Verpackung GmbHwww.wittmann-druck.de p. 9
www.cossma.com
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Published by Health and Beauty Business Media GmbHManaging Director: Jürgen VolppPublishing Director: Hendrik van der VlietTel.: +49 721 165-304E-mail: [email protected]
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