COOKING WITH SPIRITS The Spirited · dishes. Adam Harris, American Whiskey Ambassador for Beam Suntory, joined us at both events to educate diners on the different expressions of

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COOKING WITH SPIRITS

Chef Susan Feniger and co-owner Kajsa Alger of Mud Hen Tavern in Los Angeles.

EXPLORING THE USES OF WHISKEY IN THE KITCHEN WITH KNOB CREEK

The

Spirited Kitchen

by Jesse Hom-Dawson

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Cocktail pairings have begun to join wine pairings in the world of fine din-ing, but spirits, especially whiskey, play another under-recognized role in the culinary world: their use in cooking. Whether it is bourbon barbecue sauce on ribs, chocolate whiskey cake or whiskey-flambéed mushrooms, the same ver-satility that makes whiskey such a great spirit for mixing cocktails also makes it great for cooking. Whiskey’s big, bold flavors serve to enhance and highlight ingredients in many dishes, from red meat to roasted vegetables to desserts. It’s a secret ingredient both home cooks and professional chefs love to reach for, so we decided to challenge two chefs to create dishes with Knob Creek whiskey that explore the variety of ways that the dark spirit can be put to use in the kitchen.

Through a dinner hosted at Mud Hen Tavern in Los Angeles with celebrity chef Susan Feniger and a lunch held at The Cooperage American Grill in La-fayette, CA, with Pastry Chef Laura Salazar, we gathered some of California’s leading women in hospitality for a meeting of the Women in Whiskey Society, where they learned—and tasted—what a difference whiskey can make in dishes. Adam Harris, American Whiskey Ambassador for Beam Suntory, joined us at both events to educate diners on the different expressions of Knob Creek and how to properly smell and taste the golden elixir.

The owner of two Los Angeles restaurants, publisher of five cookbooks and star of two television shows, Chef Susan Feniger is an outgoing, bold and vibrant personality that’s only bested by her flavorful flare on the plate. It was a natural fit to have Feniger host the Women in Whiskey Society’s fun and informative “Cooking with Knob Creek” dinner at her upscale gastropub, Mud Hen Tavern in Los Angeles. Feniger’s cooking mirrors the melting pot of Los Angeles, offering bold, bright and multi-cultural flavors, ingredients and prepa-

Knob Creek Rye–marinated chicken with ancho chile barbecue sauce on a bed of white corn grits and summer corn succotash and a Knob Creek Whiskey Sour.

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Adam Harris, American Whiskey Ambassador for Beam Suntory.

Pairing with Your Palate at Mud Hen Tavern

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“It’s all about the flavors,” said Adam Harris in his address to The Women in Whiskey Society, which had gathered at The Cooperage American Grille in Lafayette, CA, to explore cocktails, several Knob Creek expressions and a heavenly bourbon-infused menu. When asked about trends, Harris pointed to the diversity and range of styles found in full-flavored American whiskies: “Knob Creek is a quintessential bourbon that gives you a ‘Kentucky hug’ of warm vanilla, caramel, spice and oak that are the hallmarks of our brand.”

As he led the tasting, Harris paid tribute to the many women who’ve played pivotal roles in the industry, including Elizabeth “Bessie” Williamson, who started her career in 1934 as a secretary at the Laphroaig Distillery, Booker’s Bourbon’s Annis Noe, and notably, Marge Samuels, who was key in the birth and legendary branding of Maker’s Mark.

Bourbon is a spirit that lends itself particularly well to use in the kitchen, and Chef/Partner Erik Hopfinger and Pastry Chef Laura Salazar used Knob Creek vari-ous ways in each course. The versatility of Knob Creek 100 Proof was undeniable when it was paired with oysters Rockefeller. The sweetness of the bourbon played against the saline oysters in an unexpected and delicious way. As America’s oldest style of whiskey, Knob Creek Rye—made from a majority of rye in the mash and batched from barrels aged between four and 12 years—was a crowd pleaser with grassy rye bread notes, a hint of vanilla and a mellowness from corn, which makes up the balance of the spirit’s blend. Harris pointed out that corn-based bourbon came into its true prominence as the nations’ preferred whiskey style after Prohibi-tion, while rye, which is a sticky, challenging grain to work with, was the spirit distilled by our nation’s forefathers. A pairing of rye-macerated whole-seed mustard added layers of flavor to Chef Hopfinger’s bourbon-glazed salmon dish.

“Honey barrels,” those selected by the Master Distiller, are used to craft Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve, a 120-proof, deeply-colored expression with flavors of roasted nuts, bold vanilla a hint of smoke that originated in deeply charred barrels. “Historically when a Master Distiller was making a selection he would look for barrels that were shiny from being routinely sampled; these tasty barrels were known as honey barrels,” Harris explained.

Spirits find their way into many of the desserts created at The Cooperage by Pastry Chef Laura Salazar. She pointed out that in addition to adding flavor, alcohol keeps gelatos and sorbets scoopable, and whiskey pairs particularly well both with fruits, such as strawberries, and with chocolate. Her cloud-like Knob Creek bread pudding, a masterpiece of custard-soaked brioche, caramel and candied bourbon-macerated pecans, skillfully mirrored Knob Creek’s flavors. —Deborah Parker Wong

rations. While Feniger’s food crosses many genres, from her gourmet Mexican cuisine served at Border Grill or the high-end comfort food served at Mud Hen, there is still a common thread that runs through her cooking: big, expressive flavors.

And Knob Creek knows a thing or two about big, bold flavors: Adam Harris explained, “I love Susan’s enthusiasm! She starts from scratch with the flavors and is able to find something in each of the whiskeys that would complement the food, while staying true to the style of her restaurant.” Feniger added, “We’re known for strong flavors, and that’s what our food is.

It happens to pair well with whiskey! I always try to think about flavor profiles: sweet, salty and a lot of Southeast Asian influences that combine those two together. Whether it’s strong spices like cumin or pancho, we try to find the right ones that pair with the smokiness of whiskey.”

Throughout the dinner, both Harris and Feniger spoke on cooking and pairing the food with whiskey. Harris complimented Mud Hen’s cocktails paired with the meal: twists on a classic Whiskey Sour and Man-hattan, which he said “had flavors that highlighted the restaurant’s flavor.” Feniger chose to put a Whiskey

Sour on the menu because according to her, “It’s a great easy-to-drink, intro-to-whiskey-drinking cocktail, while the Manhattan is a more experienced drink.”

Feniger confessed that she used to drink only vodka, but has recently discovered the wonderful world of bourbon and Scotch, something that she has embraced in her cooking as well: “The aging characteristics of whiskey bring such strong flavors to the table, and notes of vanilla and caramel really add depth and boldness to dishes. It’s like eating in liquid form!” She added, “Good whiskey and good food have a lot in common. You’re not just drinking

Bourbon even made an appearance in the red butter lettuce salad in the form of Knob Creek Bourbon–candied walnuts, along with blue cheese, beets and a mustard vinaigrette.

PHOTO: DUSTIN DOWNING PHOTO: DUSTIN DOWNING

Cooking with Knob Creek at The Cooperage American Grille

Knob Creek bread pudding, one of Pastry Chef Laura Salazar’s house favorites, mirrored the hallmark flavors of Knob Creek.

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Cooperage’s Pastry Chef Laura Salazer speaking to

the attendees of Women in Whiskey.

good whiskey, you’re tasting it. You’re not just eating good food, you’re tasting it. It’s an experience, not just sustenance.”

The dishes were indicative of Feniger’s signature cooking style, while each contained whiskey that highlighted and complemented or contrasted with the flavors in the dish. A table snack of addicting spicy bourbon caramel popcorn led off the night, fol-lowed by salmon that had been dry-rubbed in lemon and ginger, then marinated in Knob Creek Smoked Maple Bourbon and air-dried, with smoked crema and griddle cakes.

The next course featured Moroccan spiced lamb meatballs braised with Knob Creek Rye Whiskey and a red butter lettuce salad with blue cheese, Knob Creek Bourbon–candied walnuts, beets and a mustard vinaigrette. Feniger chose the Knob Creek Rye for this dish, because, according to her, “The Rye can stand up to the herbaceous and grassy fla-vors of the lamb and provide an excellent contrast. The yogurt is a bright contrast to the earthiness of the lamb and whiskey.”

The main course was a wood-roasted chicken that had been marinated with Knob Creek Rye and an

ancho chili barbecue sauce, on a bed of summer corn succotash and white corn grits. It’s not surprising that a barbecue sauce would appear on the menu, as Feniger mused: “Bourbon to me is comfort, a part of Southern hospitality and Southern food. It’s a full, rich spirit that’s almost like eating in liquid form.”

Despite being stuffed with wonderful whiskey-paired and -inspired food, everyone seemed to find room for dessert when the Knob Creek Smoked Maple Bourbon peaches over a vanilla bean custard cake made its way to the table.

Moroccan lamb meatballs with chimichurri, yogurt and mint.

PHOTO: DUSTIN DOWNING

Salmon marinated in Knob Creek Smoked Maple Bourbon on a griddle cake topped with smoked crema.

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