CONTENTS OF VOL. 1. · Limits of my Wanderings in that Country-Knowledge of ... Hungary and Poland-Advantages of the Habsburg Connec ... 6. tion of H istory-Catholic Reaction 9. CHAPTER

ER R A T A

olume I p 2 line 16for northmiddoteastmiddot J tad northmiddotwest

Volume I p 164 line I for urram r((ld I e Iram

Volume 2 p 120 line 2 Ormiddotr third Prince Sigbmulld r(rld Il~1

Prince Gabriel

Volume 2 p 2331 line 6 for Harornszek ~ad Haromsrek Il

Volume 2 p ~34 line 2jor c Borszek Y(Iui Borszek

CONTEN TS OF V OL 1

C HA PTER 1

I N TRODUC TION K

Origin of the present W ork-)ly Three Visit s to llungaryshy

Limits of my Wanderings in that Coun try-Knowledge of the ) Iagyar Language- Peculiar Character of this Bookshy

The lagyars little known in England- Importance of he Subject-New Organization of tbe Austro-llungarian Empire -Superior Compactness of I Iungary- Auslrian Reichsrath and Hungarian D iet-The I Delegations -Statistics of Territory

md Population-The Magyars their Number and Position -~fagyu Conquest of l-J unguy-Meaning of the Word Magyar _ KationaLity n defined- Present material Devemiddot

lopment orthe Country- H ungary as a Field for Tourists for

the Antiquarian fo r the Sportsman - Scenery - Natural H istory-Politics and Sociology-Hungary and Russia

CHAPTER II

FIRST IMPRESSIQ-1S - Bt DAIEST

Fit Entry into Pest-Gentlemens Costume-Terra IncognitashySpring Weather-Streeb of BudaPest-Shops-View from the Fortress-Blocksberg-Storming of Buda in J~9-The various Quarters of Pest-Bridges and Steamel- lIot Baths

- A Moslem Shrine - r ilgrims - The Suspensionmiddot BridgeshyThe new Quay-Ruildings on the Rivcr-Hungarianism of Pest-German Origin- National Theatre-National Museum - T own Park-tnhealthiness or Pest _ _ 20

xiv COTENTS

CHAPTER III

OLTU~ES OF HUGARI-~ H ISTORY -~I

-gtect of the Country-Unscientific E thnology-Exposed Posishylion of tle Country-Successie Layers of Turanian Populashylion-Conversion of the ~Iagyars-The Cumans and the Monshygols-Turkish Occupation of lIungary-Zrinyis ApologueshyJ ustified by Eenls-Patriotic Sentimentality-Progress of the

Austrian Connection - Negative Charncter of Hungarian ] listory - Effects of T urkish Occupation-Fate of Bohemiashy

Hungarian Constitutional ism-Its Defects-Opposition to the ~ ustrian Constitution - Bulla Aurm- Nobles -Freedom from Taxation- ElItenU3ting Circumstances-Constitutional Hefo rm - tnfaoUT-able Geographical Position of I lungaryshyPe~cution of Protestantism by the I l absburgs-~ [agyars and Walltchs compared-Causes of Inferiority of Eastern Europe-shyHungary and Poland-Advantages of the Habsburg Connecshy

tion 46

C HAPTE R I V

TilE GREAT IItXGARIAX PLmiddotl K

Limits of the Alrold-The Principal ) L1gyar Area-The Great

and Little Plains - Dr Dilz- H ungarian Agriculture-Its Unifonn Character-Vant of Wood and ~tone-Bad Roads _ Imperfect Drainage-Fertility of the Soil - Culti a ted Deserts-Continental Climate-Want of Moisture-Canals and Pl mtations - Want of Fuei--dls-Subterranean Granaries H

CHAPTER V

A L FOL D SCE ERY

How one should see Alfold Scenery-Baron Eohos Descriptionshy

Pet6fi-s Lilll~ CIIIfIOItin - Tlu ~tidtrness in fVin - Tlu l tvrf- Parallel Description by ~L de Gerando 96

CO7EVTS xv

CIIAPTLR Y 1

ALFOLD CITIES - DEBRECZI)I rmiddot

Distribution of Population on the Alfold-Yillages and ~[arket-

Places -Royal Free Citics-Statbtics_~l y own Experience- -Kyiregylnha-Debreczin_It~ Great Fairs - Railway Comshymunication-The Calvinist Rome its Streets its I ndustry - Wood and -ater-Origin of Dchreczin-agitrates as a Church Hody- Territories of lfold Cities-Importance of Debreczin - Typical Character of its Citizens _ Municipal Jealousies-Conservat hilm-Dalaration of Independence in lB49 - The Great Calvinist Churcb lOS

CnPTER 11

LFOLD CITIES - SZEGED

~zeged -Its unorganized Appearance-WatermiddotSupplr - Local

D ish-Learning Hungarian-Dolce far nienle-The CholerashySt Rosalia - An Englih Spomman-The Town~House-shybull Kohles wanted- An Army Contractor as Lord-Lieutenant

-~[agyarized Germans-iJunieipal Subsenience- Passpom for H or-es- Magyar Thieves-D rought and Famine-GOemshyment Relief-Increased Taxation 130

CHAITER Ill

TilE )f-GYR PE S_~T

Definition of a Peasant-Pride of the IIngnr Pcasntry - Exlra

Jfmtg-ariam 11011 at iita - XOII- Peasallt ClalteS - A H orseshy

rlcing Agriculturalist-T he Un-peaant-likc Character of th~ )Tagyar Petsant-Dr Ditz 011 lnclolence-Cau5CS of Jlungarian Indolence- D oubtful Blesings of Xature-Cunn ing and S U1gt

pieion of the Peasant - acy~r Politencss - Subjection of W omeu- Patriarchal Relations-1Iospitality-Xat ional Fault -Aristocratic Prejudices-Prof(SSor Ansteds Oriattal Blood

-~lagyar and German I ndustry-~1 -ranys Jlagyor JIjj - Peasants ulte of ords

150

x vi CONTEYTS

C HAPTER IX

TI l E ~IAGYAR PEASAKT-CoJtinua rGr

111 Alf6ld the Special] labitl1t of the ~ragylr - Appenr3llce of their Villages-Proximity ofthe Churches- Spurious Ethnology - T he Cottl1gc of the )Iagyar Peasant- Of the Magyar Squire - Shortness of Peasant L ife-Alleged Sterility-)Iagyars l1nd Wallachs compared - Magyar Recruits - Cotume of the Peasant-Of the Gentry-Of the Peuant Women- Rationale of Peasant Costume and Modem Fashion-Costume of Kalotamiddot szeg-Of the less civilized )tationalities- Linen and Sheepsk in -Holiday D ress-The Magyar aa a Horseman-The Csardas -The Gipsies-As ) Iusicians- Their H ungarian Feelings-The Tilinka - Glribongyi-Four Cl~ of Herdsmen-

Magyar )lelancholy- Gemlan Vulgarity i3

CHAPTER X

PEASAXTS AKD BRIGAKDS

The Vonl B~tydr-BdJdrimJtls and J)mls(hItiim~ri compared _ Poor Lads - Hungarian and Austrian Military Conshy

scriptions-Sympathy vith Oulla5- The Death of a Brigand _ Conserative Prejudices-~tatarium-Soldicrs on Leave-shy

Effect of)rilitary Se middotice 206

C H APTER Xl

VALERTA

Hungary anu Pannonia- YaJeria- The Monastery of Mons Pan middot nonie- Eirth-Place of 5t Martin-Foundation and Restorashytion-Lsed as a Fortres- )onastic Hospitality- Architecture of the ChuJch- St Stephens Seat-An Extcllsie Procpect

-The Library-The Benedictines in Hungary-Exceptional Privileges-Flight into Silesia-Joseph I I and Francis 11shyEducational Work-Lake Dalaton- Tihany - Turkish Raids - Fiired - Ruined Castles - Importance of Lake Balatonshy

Yeszprim-A Cistercian Convent- n Aristocratic Bishopshy

13akonybCl 221

COXTENTS XV II

CHAPTER XII

ll UKGARIA-l CO-lSTITeT10X BEFORE 1848 shyCOU~TRY SQUI RES

Clri~tocrltical tnd Federal Character of the Old Constitutionshy

J- rancis II-A Hungarian County-Hungarian NoblemenshyNoble Corpomtions- Congregations - Elected J udgesshyGood Effects of County Organization-County ~l agistrltC5-T he Counties and the Goyemment_ Particular Congrega tion -The County R ate-T he Tibbbir6--His Charactcr shyCompared with Squires Western and Allworthy- ContrlSt of their Political Opinions-Ilis Library- Ilis OmniscienceshyHaron Eotos Oil the Tdbla6irJ- Pet6fis AIr Paul PnlJ-A

Tralbylvanian Country Gentleman drawn by ) 1 Gyulai-Baron Eo1os on a Sqg(lbirtJ

~47

CHAPTER X III

Il UXG R IAX COSTITUTION BEFORE 1848-Couinrmf THE OLD DIET

rhe )funicipia-Thcir Rightsl1nd PIi-ileges-The I IonorntioresshyThe Cowlties and the Government- n Election Anecdoteshy

IJnequal Distribution of Xobility-Size of the Counties-Polish Refugee-The Counties in the Diet-Other Members of the

Diet-The Royal Free Cities-Yotes W eighed not Counted -The Callcry- )I r Pagets Evidencc--The D icJSteriashyGraYamina 280

C HAPTER XIV

T IlE REFOR)IS OF 1ampt8 AX D 1866

Rcolution and Reform-)r )liehael Honmiddotith-The Office of Palatine-The Abolition of Privileges - Parliameutary and Municipal Rcronn-lJungarian Partics- Paralleled in America and England-Xew Electoral Laws-Qualification of Electors - Iready Obolete-]mitation of France-Tnfluence of )obles

- E xaggerated Suspicion of the Opposition - Xecessity of )[odemizing the Country-Patriot COn5Cnltics-The Delcgnshy

tions - M )Iocsar)-Patriotic Obscurantism-Austrian In fluence still feared-H ow to Oppose it 297

Xii i COTEY TS

C HAPTER XV

T H E DAltC IPATIOlt OF TilE LltD 1lt 148 PAGIS

Abolition of Robol and Aril(-ilas--~oble and Non-noble Landshy

Curialish and Grbarialists-The L rbarium-R ussian Serfage

- The Peasants Two )Iasters-Peasmt lIo1clings-)1i nllte

Lcgbhtlon-Reforms of I~S-Curialists and Urbarialbts conshy

fused-Consequences of Emancipation-Ai-ilicilof explained shy

Village Adminitration-Judgcs and Notaries-I Self Govern middot

ment _ Pusztas_ CmmQualio_Peasants and Gentry 318

CO~TENTS OF VOL II

CUAPT E R XVI

II UltGAR IAlt SOCIETY PALl

H ungary and AmeriCl - Gtilitarian Conversation - Sciolism shy

Difference betwccn America and H ungary - Medhc al Remiddot

mains-Young and Old H ungary- Rude Plenty- Disregud

of Foreign Opinion - Influence of French an-Petdfilt

~arcaslUs-Recent Origin of Pest-Of H ungarian Literaturc

and Society- A Pnctical Joker -The Dissiptcd Club--A

Hungarian J ew in America- Cost of a CarriagePole-Neomiddot

logisms -The Latin Language - Koble P redicates-Agricul

turalllabit

CHAPTER XVII

lIUXGARI AX SOCTETY-Conlimud

~lagnate D eputies- Position of the Upper House-Influence of

the Iagnates - Courtiers become Patriots - Public Sen ices

of the ofagnates-Patriotic Liberality-~lagnates and Squireshy

COYTE N 7 S XIX

PGIl

-Spain and I1ungnry contrasted- Politics as a Topic of

Conversation- Why French is learnt-Hungarian Snobbilohmiddot

ne- nglomiddot~tania-Lodie~ Xewspapers- The Language fit

for a Gendemm-Foreign L mguabTCs a l-ecessity-Disampdlfl

tages of their Study-Educational Charlatans-Idleness and

PatriotislU- Former Educational Sptem-Concentration of

Literary Class-~Iagyar Opinion of Foreigner-Importanct=

of Turkish Railways 19

C HAPTER X JII

TH E NATIO- LITIpoundS

Relllarkahle Intermixture of ationalities in Hungary- Its Tncomcmiddot

nience-The Vicinity of the Capital-S t Stephens )[a)im-middot

Ethnological Areas- Changes of Xationality - Rules and

Exceptions-The Census of 1851 -Anecdotes-German Hunmiddot

garians-Saxons of Transylania- Continental Position shy

Turkish Wars-T he Latin Language- Conservative Regrets shy

) laria T here and Joseph II 1-3

CHAPTER XIX

TJIE ~TIOKI ITJES-Coflliud

The Future of the Kationalities - Influence of P rosperity - Of

Democracy-Supposed )Iutual Animo~ity-Xationalities and

Churches - Lutherans - llagyaristion of Gcrmaru- Thret

Classes of German Colonists-The I H ungarian Religion shy

lltuthenians-Serbs-W allachs-The German X ational ity in

ustria-The ~ationality FCer - D emocratic Movemiddot ment-Conditions of Magyar Supremacy-T he )Iag)ar and German Languages-Statistics 7 I

CHAPTER XX

lIU-GA RIAX PROTESTAKTIS)f

Political Charcter of the R efonnation-Hungal) and Bohemia conmiddot

trbted-The Word KllrlIC - Turki~h Oppression of Catholishy

cism - T he Friends of the Refonnation in Germany - In

xx CONTENTS rG

France anc1 IJungtlry-Lutheran Burchers and Calvinist ~olgtles _Protestantism in Trnnsylvania-ReligioU5 In8uenceofFeudal

Lords_Swiucrland and Szckel-land - The Mass in Magyar -~eutral Character of lIuncarian ll istory-The protestants and the Crown - Joseph IIs Edict of Toleration - T he

Johanniles-The Nazarencs-Compared with the Quakers and Mcnnonite - IIungari1ll T oleration-Its Imperfect Character

_ Persecution of the 5abhatarians - Dcltentralized Public Opinion-Proposals of a Cruvinist Synod-Its Misrepresenta

6tion of H istory-Catholic Reaction 9

CHAPTER XX I

HtNG-RJ A~ PROTESTAXTISM _C(mtiwuti

Protestant Grievances _ Army Chaplains - Comersions - ~Iixed Marriages-Protestant Liberalism a Source of WetknessshyDivorce-Changed Character of Catholic Clergy-Luther3ns 3nd Ca1inists-The Patent of tSS9-Protestant SelfGovernshyment_ Statbtics-Jntcriors of Churches- Clergy and Laity shyForeign Culture among the Catholic Clergy- Their Superior

Sod3 l~osition _ Infrequency of COUefSions - Probable Increase of Catholicism-Isolated pohion of Hungarian Proshytestantism _ State Aid _ Superiority of Protestant SchOOls _ Changed p~ition of tbe Crown - Proposed Catbolic

121 Autonomy

CHAMER XXII

TIlE ll UNG RI AN L ANGUAGE

The German Language in Ilungary - Adantages of Knowing IIungarian-Practi~ of Speaking Foreign Languages- Hun

garian and RUoSian Languages compared-The Area of the Hungarian Language- Its Improved Position- Spoken by the

SOereign-Dying out in Moldaia-A Scheme of Iolatthias Corvinus-~l aking a Language-The use of Latin W ords shy

Of E nglish Words - Slav Yords in H ungarian- Gennan and

CONTEYTS XXI

r G

Latin Words used by Peasants-Relation of Hungtrian to

Turkish- The Turks and the Finns-Sajnovits and Gyamuthi - Theories of Philologists-Castr~n-Csoma-Reguly-Hunmiddot

garian Grammars-sound of the Language-Its Terseness shyAdvantages of its Study- IoIr )[ax Iohiller on Finnish- T he

Future of Hungarian - Language and Race-Agglutinatie and I nflected Languages-The H ungarians as Linguits- An Obstacle to the Gcrmanization of H ungary 49

CHAPTER XX I II H UfCA RI AN LITERATlRE

Hungarian Exaggerations - The I Iungarian Language in Past

Centuries-Protestant Exiles-J oseph n-The Noble Guard - Statesmen nnd Poets - Peton - tnoriental Character of H ungarian Literature-Obstacles to its Progress- Smallness of Reading Public - Its Recent Origin - Want of Literary Culthation-Kespapers-loverty of the Country- Patriotism

-Protection in Literature-Sciencc-Compctilion of Foreign Literaturcs - The H ungarian Academy- Kisfaludy Society - The CenSor-hip of the Press- The Provincial PosiUon of the Country li9

CHAPTER XX IV T R NSYLVA)lIA

fr Boners Book on this Country - Transylvania compared with

Switzerland-Its T hree ~ationalitiesand Three Political Kat ions - Its Past H istory-Partition of the H ungarian Kingdom-A ~hniature Poland-f utual Relations of the Thrcc P olitical Nations- Transylvanian Diet- Position of the Roumans shy

Union of 1 I ungary and Transyhnnia- Annulled by the Austrian Government-Renewal of the Union-Peculiarities of T ranmiddot sylvanian Ch3racter-Tffra Incofllitior zoo

CHAPTER XXV

KOLOZSV~R-THE SZEKELS

Three Routes into Trlnsyh3nia-~ly 0 1l Route- KolOZSomiddotir or Klausenburg - Society - Population-~ruseum-T he Great

XXII COTE 7 S

lta

Church- -Tle Zapolyas-The Lnitarians-Rdigious Fluctuashy

tions-Privileges of the Szckels-Their Father _uila - Szekel

Emigration-Opinions of Tourbu-Primitie Watering- Places _ Borszek_r olitical I mportance of Sukeis - 1ltir Action

in IS S-49-The Sloekel Character 2IS

C Il PTER XXYI

ESY ED

Imporunce of the Place-The College of the Rerormed-Agitation

Jmong the Wall1chs-Atroc11ies committed b them-F eelings

of their pCItnt ~cighbour and Landlord~ - Fortunes of Enyed in 1848 - The Ad-allce of Bem - Burning of Enycd _ Losses of the College-Despondency of the Ilungarinnsshy

Poor Scholars _ T he inexorable T ax_gtttherer - Collecc

24deg StJtitics

CIIAtTER XXVI I

THE S_X OXS OF TR _SYLYAL

D11C of their Settlements-Their f lniversity _ IT Boners Yiew of their Privileges -St Stephens ~laim-Their Democratic

Constitution _ T he Regulations of F rJncis 11 - Thc Patricians -_The Lutheran Clergy-A Medireal Demomiddot

cracy-Subject Communi lies-The SaXOtb in 1S-t8-49-Saxon Timidity-Dialect and peculiarities-Little Intluence cxercbed

by them-Their Conseratism- Diminution of the population _ Saxon Peas1llts __ ~ 2 59

CHArTER XXYIl I

HEIDJr~STADl A-iD TilE DIET 1 1864middot

~luhlbach- ir t View of lIcrmannstadt-G~-grown StreetsshyGerman Clothes_ Bruckcothakr 1-1 useum-The Provincial

Diet in t864_ Schmerlings Schemes-A new Electoral Law _ _uitude of the llungarim Party-A Trilingual Legislature

_Appearance of the Altsembl- SoMiersChild-The ~e liS

Regalists- ll1e Oebate-5u1gtcqlcnt ChangltS

XXIIICONTEXTS

CHAPTER X XI X

KROKST ADT Ga

Hotel Ko 1- The Pavement - T he brkct-place - Romantic

Situat ion of the Towo - The Kapcllenberg - A Ruian r-[onument-Panoramie View- Manufacturing Industry- The

Dom Kirche-Crosses Yeslmenb and Chalices-Date of the

School- BrassO anJ Kronstadt-Fortun~ of the Townshy

Pacificator of the World-Szek ler Influence-Striking Conmiddot trasts of the Town and Kcighbourhood-Advcnture of a Saxon

Sportsman 292

CU PTER XXX

WALLACII S OR ROUMA~S

( )rigin of the K ame of Wallaeh-I eaning of the Vord Rouman shyThe Dacians - Slamiddot Intluence-Korth and South Slavs shy

Peculiarities of the WaliachiJn Language-Rouman Area-A Rouman lap-Chaoces of Rouman Asceooancy- Wallach ian shy

Spcaking Magyar-Allegcd incTClSe of Roumans-Probable

Causes - ~1 de Gcrando on Rouman Courage - Rouman

Inlolence - ROllman Religion - Superstitions - Stupidityshy

Cruelty - Jacqueries - T heir Canscs - Memories of M ulnal t njuries-Greatly cxaggeratcd-lncendiarism-W allaehs commiddot

pared w ith Serbs and ~zekcls-LLOdlord ) lglect of the Wallachian Language-The Unite1 Greeks-Strategical 1mmiddot

partance of T ransy lania 30S

CHArTER XXX I TRAVELLI )G l -l T RAK SYLY_ N IA

TrUl~ylvlnian Trael - Nagy Varad - Bishops Bath - Jagyal and Wallaehs- Cemcteries-On the Road-Sziliry Sornlyo

-HunganJn Scienti fi c I ~ocialion-Public Convepnces shy

redestrianim- Into Wallaebia-Throu~h the C~ik-A Rude

Conveyance-T ravelling Expcdition-A Wateringplace- At a Popes H ouse-On the )Ioors-Among the Shepherds shy

W ith the SIlimiddotlIlls-Last middotords on Szkclmiddotland 36