Consumer Aspirations, Claims Investigations, and Product Evaluations Birnur K. Aral, PhD and Mary E. Clarke Good Housekeeping Institute Society of Cosmetic Chemists Toronto November 6, 2014
Consumer Aspirations,
Claims Investigations,
and Product Evaluations
Birnur K. Aral, PhD and Mary E. Clarke
Good Housekeeping Institute
Society of Cosmetic Chemists
Toronto
November 6, 2014
Good Housekeeping - Founded in 1885
Good Housekeeping Research Institute
- Established in 1900
Our Roll of Honor
-The New York Times
“ There is a kind of
assurance that buying your
ring at Tiffany inures you
from bad marital juju, as if
the union were protected by
the Good Housekeeping
Seal of Approval.
”
An American Icon
Tremendous Influence
Great Deal of Influence
Some Influence
92%
41%
34%
17%
85%
22%
33%
30%
79%
14%
29%
36%
76%
24%
28%
24%
66%
13%
22%
31%
SOURCE: Fairfield Research, July 2011
66%
16%
23%
27%
64%
13%
26%
25%
47%
6%
14%
27%
43%
4%
12%
27%
47%
4%
11%
25%
37%
4%
9%
24%
Seal Emblem Recognition
Health, Beauty, and Environmental Sciences Lab
Product Categories
• Beauty Products
• OTC drugs, dietary supplements
• Water filtration devices
• Insecticides, pesticides
• Pet food
Consumer Advocacy
• “Is It Safe to Heat Food in Plastic?”
• “Keratin Hair Treatments: Do they
contain formaldehyde?”
• “Is Your Tap Water Safe?” – Partnered
with U. of Arizona and U. of Nebraska
Our Reach
• 20 million magazine readers
• 9 million unique visitors to
goodhousekeeping.com
• Product Reviews Channel
• 5.3 million page views/month
• 5.1 million views for beauty
content
• Inside the Institute Blog
• 7 Years Younger best-selling books
• National and local TV, radio,
newspaper interviews
Instrumentation
• Climatology Chamber
• Visia Complexion Analyzer-Canfield
• Corneometer- Courage-Khazaka
• Cutometer- Courage-Khazaka MPA 580
• TEWL-cyberDERM RG-1-Evaporimeter
• Chromameter-Minolta CR-310
• Wash Station-Custom design
• Mechanical Tester-Instron Model 5944
with TRI’s Comb attachment
• Shine Cylinder-Custom design
Consumer Panel
• Survey Monkey Survey Analytics
• Panel Size: ~4000
• 91% Female
• On-Site Testers: 350+
• 100+ within Hearst Tower
• At least 22 testers enrolled per product
Methodology
Launched in 2010
• AA Skin Categories
• Day creams with SPF
• Night creams
• Eye creams
• Serums
• Age-spot treatments
• Peels
• Instant wrinkle smoothers
• Firming Creams
• Lip treatments
• Hand Creams
• Sunscreens
• Body Lotions
• AA Hair
• Shampoo and Conditioners
• Deep conditioner/Masks
• Serums
• Thickening
• Hair Color
• Permanent
• Root Touch-ups
• Instant Root Touch-ups
• Volumizing Mousses
• AA Makeup Categories
• Foundations
• Primers
• Concealers
• Lipsticks
• Lip Plumpers
• 5,229 Female testers age 35 or older
• Average age: 49
• Products Screened: 1500+
• Advisory boards
• Top dermatologists
• Top makeup artists
• Top hair science and measurement experts
• Products Tested: 593
• Consumer questionnaires tallied: 10,228
• Visia before-and-after pictures: 12,337
• Corneometer data points: 20,820
• Cutometer data points: 11,696
• Hair swatches used:1,667
• 5,284 wash/dry cycles used to test hair color
• 3.706 frizz measurements
• Products Awarded: 109
• Winners: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/
The Story In Numbers
Topicals do have limitations… but you can get good results…
62 year old subject after 8 weeks of daily use of drugstore
brand day moisturizer with SPF 30 containing retinol
At times you can get striking results…
80 year old subject after 8 weeks of twice daily use of
drugstore brand serum with pro-retinol
• Price doesn’t always correlate with performance
• Boots No7 Protect and Perfect Serum ($21/1 oz)
• Gold in 2010
• La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night Cream ($475/1.35 oz)
• Gold in 2013
• Facial Moisturizers
• With SPF 30 (2013) less moisturizing than those with SPF 15
• SPF 30- ~6.5% at 6 hrs.
• SPF15- ~19% at 6 hrs.
• Night creams tested in 2013 in two categories
• w/ and w/o retinol performed similarly in the lab and with consumers
• Products w/retinol more potent but not tolerated as well
• panelists’ skipping 1-3 days between use
• Anti-aging makeup
• Were skeptical at first but
• Moisturizing and/or firming foundations and concealers
• No significant improvements in wrinkles
• Thickening serums tested for our sept 2014 hair awards
• All six that were tested via Laser Micrometry showed and increase in cross-
sectional area after product application.
Some General Observations
Sun Protection - Best Action Against Skin’s aging
• Results from our latest Sunscreen Test
• 17 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 products with 80 min water-resistance
• Best sellers as per each brand
• 9 Lotions + 6 aerosols+1 gel+ 1milk
• 14 chemical sunscreens + 3 mineral/physical sunscreens
• Field test in Summer 2013 + stain testing in the Lab
• Each product distributed to minimum of 22 testers
• 15-22 Returned per product
• N=332
• In 41 states
• Ages 18 and above
• ~5% of tester pool was male
• They used it at least twice while outdoors in the sun
• 66% exercised outdoors such as jogging and biking
• 52% went to the pool or swam
• 37% went to the beach
• 24% were involved in other activities, which included
yard work/gardening, playing tennis, etc.
• 16% went boating/sailing
• Consumers generally satisfied with the
sunscreen category
• All scored excellent for preventing from
sunburn and quite well for water
resistance.
• Consumer Satisfaction
#1-Chemical sunscreens –non-aerosols
#2-Mineral sunscreens
#3-Chemical sunscreens - aerosols
• Low in fragrance, texture, and
irritation/stinging attributes
• Low in being oily/greasy/slippery and
leaving a filmy residue
• Did not score higher for ease of application
• Stain Testing performance
1- Mineral sunscreens
2- Chemical sunscreens – non-aerosols
3- Chemical sunscreens - aerosols
General Results
Ease of Use + Performance Predictor variables (12)
1. This product was easy to apply to my body.
2. This product had a pleasant fragrance.
3. I liked the texture of this product.
4. The product absorbed well into my skin.
5. This product did not leave a filmy residue on my skin.
6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation.
7. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit,
towel, furniture, etc.
8. This product did not feel tacky on my skin
9. This product did not feel greasy/oily/slippery on my skin.
10.This product didn’t make my skin feel dry.
11.This product resisted water well.
12.I didn’t get sunburn during the times I used this product.
Satisfaction Dependent/criterion variable (1)
1. Overall, I was satisfied with the product to continue using it.
Open-ended
• Likes
• Dislikes
• Other Comments
SPSS Analysis- Linear Regression
Most Important Attributes That Drive Consumers
• First Zero-order correlations of all 12 variables was carried out
then a stepwise multiple regression was conducted
• R2= 0.67
1. I like the texture of this product : 0.376
2. This product was easy to apply to my body: 0.240
3. This product absorbed well into my skin: 0.222
4. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel,
furniture, etc.: 0.185
5. This product had a pleasant fragrance: 0.177
6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation: 0.113
• Text analysis feature of Survey Monkey used to analyze
comments for “Likes”
1. Easy to apply/Easily/Application
2. Greasy/ Not oily/Texture
3. Smell/Fragrance
4. Protected/Burn
5. Absorbed
What Sways Consumers’ Decision Negatively
• Looked at outliers in our data where a consumer’s
overall satisfaction behaved in an unpredictable way
• A larger data set is ideal
• When disliked following were among those that swayed
consumers’ overall satisfaction negatively.
1. This product had a pleasant fragrance.
2. This product did not leave a filmy residue.
3. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation.
4. This product did not feel drying
• The text analysis feature of the Survey Monkey was
utilized to analyze open-ended consumers’ “Dislikes”
1. Smell/Scent/Fragrance/Odor
2. Greasy
3. White/Residue
Do you specifically look for beauty products with anti-aging benefits?
0.9
0.1
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
100%
Yes No
• Understanding consumers habits and unmet needs in AA Skin Care
• Polled ~1,200 female US consumers in March 2014
• Majority of panel testing anti-aging products for us for the last 5 years
• Age range 22 to 83 with average at 48
• 86.5% Caucasian, 4.7% Hispanic, 3.9% Asian, 3.2% African American
State of Anti-aging Skin care - Consumer Insights
Since what age have you been using skin care products with anti-aging claims?
0.02
0.16
0.35
0.33
0.14
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
Since my
teen years
Since my
twenties
Since my
thirties
Since my
forties
Since my
fifties
What is the one anti-aging product type that you have seen results with and
can’t live without?
0.03
0.24
0.1
0.17
0.14
0.01 0.01
0.15
0.01
0.1
0.03
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
If you use a daily facial sunscreen what SPF do you use?
Less than SPF 15
2%
SPF 15
41%
SPF 30
39%
SPF 45
4%
SPF 50 or higher
6%
I don't know the SPF
of the product I use.
4%
Other (Please
describe)
4%
Do you use sunscreen protection on your face?
Yes:
90%
No:
10%
Is there a specific area of concern on your face or body that are not
addressed sufficiently with any of the skin care products you have tried?
0.08 0.08
0.1
0.09 0.09
0.07
0.1 0.1
0.04
0.12
0.05
0.06
0.01
0.02
0%
2%
4%
6%
8%
10%
12%
14%
Have you had any of the following professional procedures?
7%
12%
6%
3%
4%
1%
1%
61%
4%
Chemical Peels
Microdermabrasion
Botox
Fillers
Lasers
Ultrasound Therapy
Radio Frequency Treatments
N/A
Other. Please specify which treatments you have had…
If you never had any of the following professional procedures in the past,
which one will you consider in the near future?
11%
15%
8%
9%
10%
8%
6%
10%
20%
3%
Chemical Peels
Microdermabrasion
Botox
Fillers
Lasers
Ultrasound Therapy
Radio Frequency Treatments
Will never get any such treatments
Don't know enough about these to have an opinion.
Other. Please specify which other treatments you…
Understanding consumer habits and unmet needs
for hair care
Polled 1887 female consumers in August 2014
Age range 18 to 83 with an average of 48
47%
53%
I’m loyal to a
specific brand(s)
I buy whatever is on sale
73% 66%
58%
27%
17%
1% 0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
99% 93%
60% 57%
41% 40% 40% 35%
11%
0%
20%
40%
60%
80%
100%
120%
33%
42%
15%
11%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
45%
$5 and under $5 to $10 $10-$15 $15 +
47%
37%
10%
4% 2%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
35%
40%
45%
50%
Neutral Satisfied Unsatisfied Extremely
Satisfied
Extremely
Unsatisfied
#1Condition (dryness, dullness, rough texture)
#2 Frizz
#3 Grays
#4 Lack of Volume
#5 Thinning
#6 Oiliness
84%
16%
Too many choices
Not enough choices
57% 57%
46%
34%
14%
5%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
Hair Oils Dry Shampoo Dry Texturizers Alternative Hair
Color (Ombre
effect, bright
colors, etc.)
None of the
above
Other
91%
9%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
100%
Yes No
85%
15%
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90%
Yes No
Do you think the term "anti-aging" has a negative connotation?
Yes:
12%
No:
88 %
Other terms to be used instead of “anti-aging”?
16%
14%
10%
12%
14%
11%
4%
5%
7%
2%
4%
2 %
Rejuvenating
Renewing
Regenerating
Restoring
Refreshing
Reviving
Age-reversing
Age-fighting
Age-defying
Age-preventing
Age-delaying
Other. Please specify the other terms…
Average Age: 48
Age Range: 23-83
Miriam Arond, Director, Good
Housekeeping Institute
Health, Beauty, and
Environmental Sciences Lab
Sabina Burdzovic, Chemist
Danusia Wnek, Product Analyst
Olivia Torres, Intern/Freelancer
Home Appliance and Cleaning
Products Lab
Carolyn Forte, Director
Lexie Sachs, Product Analyst
Dr. Steven Q. Wang, Head,
Basking Ridge Dermatology
Section; Director of
Dermatologic Surgery and
Dermatology, Memorial Sloan-
Kettering Cancer Center