Construction Manual - MosquitoBite Planesmosquitobiteplanes.com/trex/TREX_85_1A_Web.pdfConstruction Manual Advanced Engineering at it's best! Your T-REX kit employs MosquitoBite Planes'

Construction Manual

Advanced Engineering at it's best!

Your T-REX kit employs MosquitoBite Planes' FastFit system—atechnology that takes advantage of laser accuracy to produce self-jigging, strength-enhanced substructures. It is also designed withyou—the builder—in mind. Parts are labeled for easy identificationand fit snugly together. The mechanical diagrams in this manualmake it very clear how the pieces interlock. Your T-REX kit should bebuilt in the order it is presented in the manual. By following thismanual, your T-REX kit will come together easily and accurately.

Kit Contents(x6) 48"x3⁄8"x3⁄8" Balsa Sticks(x13) 48"x1⁄4"x1⁄4" Balsa Sticks(x2) 48"x1⁄4"x1⁄4" Spruce Sticks(x2) 48"x2"x1⁄2" Balsa Ailerons Stock(x1) 48"x2"x1⁄4" Balsa Elevator/Rudder Stock(x2) 48"x4"x1⁄8" Balsa Sheeting for Fuselage(x10) 48"x6"x1⁄16" Balsa Sheeting for Wing (8) and Tail Surfaces (2)(x15) 24"x6"x1⁄8" Balsa Laser Cut Sheets(x3) 24"x6"x3mm Plywood Laser Cut Sheets(x2) 30" Steel Rod, threaded one end(x4) 12" Steel Rod, threaded one end(x1) Landing Gear Wire(x1) Nose Gear Hardware Package and Nose Gear Wire(1 pkg) Hinges(3 pkgs) Control Horns(2 pkgs) Bellcranks(x2) Small Dowels(x1) Control Rod Plastic Sleeve(x1) Controls Package containing:

(x2) 6" Steel Rod, threaded one end(x8) Clevises(x2) Solder Links(x1) Adjusting Screw(x1) Black Rubber Sleeve(x1) Steel Lock Collar(x1) Nylon Fork Link

(x1) Plans (sheets 1 and 2)(x1) Manual

1T-REX

A Word About Safety

• The T-REX is a highly engineered kit that requires the modeler to follow exactinstructions to complete the kit properly. Failure to follow the instructions providedmay result in loss or damage to the kit or to persons and property. This model kit cantravel very fast and behaves the same as full size aircraft. You must handle andoperate this kit with care for the sake of yourself and others.

• Take your time in building this kit. Attention to detail is required in completing eachsection.

• Do not modify this kit beyond its designed specifications. Over stressing the kit withtoo much power or too much weight may result in unexpected behaviors whenoperating.

• Use quality components when installing radio equipment. Do not use damaged ormodified servo/radio equipment. This may result in improper operation of this kit.

• Always perform a radio check before operating the engine. Be sure all radioequipment is in perfect operating condition.

• Note: As the manufacturer, we provide a high-quality product for modelers to build.Great consideration has been given to the safe operation of this kit when builtproperly. However, the modeler building this kit is responsible for the quality of theconstruction. By no means, implied or otherwise, is the manufacturer responsible forthe safe construction and operation of this kit. Safe operation and the safe use ofmaterials and tools is the responsibility of the builder.

2 T-REX

Required Reading

Shopping ListBefore you begin to build your kit, you will need to have purchased:• 3 wheels with lock collars (trike): 3.25” nose, 3.5” main.• Tail wheel (if you are building a tail-dragger)• Appropriate-sized engine (Recommended: .40-.50, 2-stroke or .50-.70 4-stroke)• Propeller: 12/4 - 12/7 (slower pitch recommended)• Engine mount with hardware• Fuel Tank with Fuel Line• Glue: Epoxy and CA glue (mostly Thin and some Medium)• Foam Tape (for the wing saddle)• Throttle cable• Covering• Round Toothpicks

Tools• Hobby Knife (X-Acto blades)• Dremel Tool with large cutting disks• Hobby Saw (fine tooth)• Z-Bender• Sanding Block• Bench Vise• Masking Tape• Soldering Iron & Solder• Covering Iron

Critical TerminologyNote the terms used in this manual:

“Dry-fit”— This always means to put pieces together without using any glue at all.“CA”—This is referring to CA glue (cyano acrylic)“Tack” — A drop of CA glue to secure the position of 2 pieces.“Glue” — To completely bond noted pieces with your choice of adhesive(i.e. carpenter’s glue, epoxy, CA...)“Sheeting” — Use of wide 1/8” balsa or 1/16” balsa as specified.“Covering” — This always means the outer skin (i.e. Monokote, UltraCote, Silkspan, Solarfilm...).

Pre-AssemblySome parts supplied in this kit are divided for manufacturing purposes. Parts shown on page 2of the Plans are to be built prior to actual assembly of this kit.

Parts shown on the Plans and in the manual depict the full and complete state of these pre-assembled parts.

Refer to page 2 of the Plans to see which pieces are required to be pre-assembled (glued)before you commence.

3T-REX

Kit Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IIA Word About Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Shopping List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Critical Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Pre-Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Table of Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Wing Cage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Parts needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Inner Cage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Parts needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Making the Servo Tray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Making the Firewall (F1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Parts needed: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Building the Outer Walls (Engine to Tail) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Attaching Outer Walls to Inner Cage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Creating the Saddle Former . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Installing the Saddle Former (F3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Installing Tail Former 1(F4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

The Tail Structure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Forming the Rest of the Fuselage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Hatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Parts needed: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Table of ContentsMain Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15A Note for Enthusiastic Wing Builders. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Parts needed: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

A Note Before You Begin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Gentle Adjustments to the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

The Trailing Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

The Wing Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Creating the Leading Edge Spar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Setting Up the Bellcranks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Controlling the Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Wing Locking Fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Main Gear Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Sheeting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Sheeting the Upper Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Sheeting the Underside of the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Sheeting the Center of the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Fuselage Sheeting. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Sheeting the Tail Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Tail Mechanics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Parts Needed: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Rudder and Elevator Control Sticks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Vertical Fin and Rudder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Horizontal Stab and Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Finishing Touches. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Fuselage Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Gluing the Firewall Surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Covering the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

The Hatch Tongue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Wing Cage

4 T-REX

Total Number of Pieces Needed: 11Other: • 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Spruce sticks

• 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Balsa sticks

Special Note:When you pop out thecircles from the InnerRibs, save all four circles.They have small holesin their centers and willbe used as washerswhen assembling theBellcranks.

Parts needed

Rib X (x2)

Inner Rib (x2)

Wing Spine

Center Bellcrank Plate

Spar Doubler (x2)

Main Root Spar

Spine Former 1

Spine Former 2

5

Wing Cage

T-REX

Note:• Do not glue any parts until specified. Some partsrequire the Wing Cage NOT to be glued until the wholewing is complete.

1 Join Spine Former 2 at the back of the Wing Spine.

2 Slide the Center Bellcrank Plate into the Wing Spine

and slide towards the back until fully seated.

3 Mate both Inner Ribs to the tabs on Center

Bellcrank Plate and Spine Former 2.

4 Insert Spine Former 1 into the lower slot of the

Wing Spine and Inner Ribs. This will lock theassembly together.

1

2

3

6 T-REX

Wing Cage

5 Sandwich the Main Root Spar between the

Doublers. (Do not use glue).

6 Slide group into Wing Cage as shown. (1)

7 Be certain the alignment is perfect. When it is, you

may tack the Main Root Spar to the Doublers. Useonly a tiny bit of glue — just enough to preventshifting.

8 Cut and insert 1⁄4"x1⁄4" spruce sticks for

the Wing Servo Mounts. (2)(Remember: no glue yet.)

*NOTE: Cut two sections of Spruce Stick at 295⁄8"long for later use. It is critical that these arereserved.

9 Trim spruce sticks flush against the Inner Ribs.

(See photo)

10 Dry-fit a Rib X on the outside of each Inner Rib. (3)

DO NOT glue anything else.

Inner Cage

Parts needed

Servo Plate

Outer Firewall (F1a)

Wall Liners (x2)

Inner Cage Wall (x2)

7T-REX

Total Number of Pieces Needed: 7Hardware: • Blind Nuts from your

supplied Nose Gear kit.Other: • 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Spruce sticks

• 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Balsa sticks

Inner Firewall (F1b)

8

Inner Cage

T-REX

Making the Servo Tray1 Making sure the balsa sticks extend beyond

the Servo Plate by 1⁄8" on each side, cut andglue two sticks of 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa to theunderside of the Servo Plate. The extensionsallow the tray assembly to hook into the CageWalls.

Making the Firewall (F1)2 Glue together the Outer (F1a) and Inner (F1b)

Firewalls to make the Firewall (F1). Be surethey are flush on all sides.

3 Glue the Wall Liners into the Firewall (F1)

assembly on the Outer Firewall (F1a) side.

• The Wall Liners should be flush with thebottom of the Firewall assembly, and shouldextend above the Firewall’s top.

4 If you are building a trike, install the Blind

Nuts provided in the Nose Gear hardwarepackage. These are installed into the holes ofthe Firewall (F1) on the Inner Firewall (F1b) side.

Note: Engine position is very forgiving. Enginemounts can be installed anywhere near thecenter or upper end of the firewall.

5 Dry-fit Servo Tray assembly into both Inner

Cage Wall openings. Do not glue yet.

• Note the choice of mounting positions forthe Servo Tray. This is to accommodatedifferent receiver/battery arrangements.

* If you are using an enginemount that may interfere withthe standard Nose Gearposition, then install the BlindNuts on the Outer Firewall (F1a)side and mount the Nose Gearbehind the Firewall (F1). Thismay be required, for example, ifthe engine mounts must bemounted sideways.

Blind Nuts

9

Inner Cage

T-REX

6 Dry-fit Firewall (F1) and two 1⁄4"x1⁄4" spruce

sticks into the Inner Cage Walls. Cut sticksflush to the outside of the Cage Wall.

• Take care while assembling these parts, asthey need to fit perfectly. Use a small squareto ensure trueness.

7 Tack these parts with CA glue. When you are

sure all parts are square and true,thoroughly glue Servo Tray, Firewall (F1) and sticks to the Inner Cage Walls.

Note the additional Balsa square stock thatcan be installed upright against the Firewall(F1), for added strength.

10 T-REX

FuselageParts needed:

Fuselage Outer Wall(x2 - preassembled)

Tail Side Wall(x2 - preassembled)

Tail Spine

Main Lock Former(F2)

Saddle Former (F3)

Saddle Block (x2)

Tail Former 1 (F4)

Tail Former 2 (F5)

Tail Former 3 (F6)

Tail Former 4 (F7)

Total Number of Pieces Needed: 13Other: • 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Spruce sticks

• 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Balsa sticks

Reminder that pre-assembly is required for the FuselageOuter Walls and for the Tail Side Walls. See Plans sheet 2.

11

Fuselage

T-REX

1 Dry-fit the Main Lock Former (F2) into the

Inner Cage by widening the Cage walls a bit.

Building the Outer Walls (Engine to Tail)

1 Assemble and glue one Outer Wall to one Tail Side

Wall. Once that side is dry, lay waxed paper on topof it and assemble and glue the second full sidewall over it. Ensure the tail ends and the tabopenings are perfectly matched.

Attaching Outer Walls to Inner Cage

Once both side walls are perfectly identical, you areready to fit them onto the Inner Cage.

2 Lay the Inner Cage on one of the side walls as

shown. Align and plug in the tabs of the InnerFirewall (F1b) and the Main Lock Former (F2).

3 Both parts must be flush along the top of the Main

Lock Former (F2), and at the front of the WallLiners. Tack the Outer Wall to the Inner Cage in afew places.

• Do not install the other side wall just yet.

12

Fuselage

T-REX

4 Lay a spruce stick along the bottom of the Inner

Cage. Dry-fit the stick into the open cavity alongthe bottom of the Cage as shown. Mark with aknife, the point where the stick meets the openingfor the Main Gear Block. (This is just behind theMain Lock Former (F2).)

5 Cut the stick flush with the opening. This will allow

the Main Gear Block to slide into the openingwhile lightly contacting the end of the spruce stick.

6 Glue a Saddle Block to the inside of the Outer Wall

(See Plans.) This will help you to align the SaddleFormer (F3) correctly in step 8.

Creating the Saddle Former7 Cut and glue three support balsa sticks to one side

of the Saddle Former (F3)(Pick a side. It doesn'tmatter). The sticks should be cut and installed flushwith the sides of the Saddle Former. The balsasticks should also be flush with the tab openings atthe bottom of the Saddle Former (F3).

Installing the Saddle Former (F3)

8 Dry-fit the Saddle Former - positioned with the

support sticks facing the Lock Former as shown.

• The Saddle Former (F3) will fit over the sprucestick along the bottom of the Cage. It will also fitinto the gap created where the Saddle Block isbutted up against the Inner Cage.

9 Tack in the Saddle Former when the parts are

perfectly matched and flush.

13

Fuselage

T-REX

Installing Tail Former 1(F4)10 Cut and glue a stick of 1⁄4"x1⁄4" spruce along the

back side of Tail Former 1 (F4). The stick should belevel and flush to the tab openings as shown.

11 Dry-fit Tail Former 1 (F4) against the end of the

Saddle Block plugging the tabs of Tail Former 1(F4) into the openings on the Tail Side Wall asshown.

12 Now dry-fit the remaining side wall into place, just

as the first was installed (step 2 - 6).

13 Position the Fuselage upright and glue Tail Former

1 (F4) and the Inner Cage to the side walls.

The Tail Structure

14 Dry-fit the Tail Spine into the back of

Tail Former 1 (F4).

15 Dry-fit the rest of the Tail Formers into the slot

openings of the Tail Spine and the tab openings inthe Tail Side Walls.

16 Tack Tail Formers 2, 3 and 4 (F5, F6, and F7) to the

Tail Spine.

17 Dry-fit the two 295⁄8" spruce sticks down the

shoulders of the four Tail Formers.

18 Once the sticks are in place, mark the ends for

trimming. The sticks should be flush with the frontof Tail Former 1 (F4), and the end of the Tail Side Walls.

19 Remove the spruce sticks and trim on the marks.

20 Remove the Tail Spine with Tail Formers 2, 3 and 4

(F5, F6, and F7). The Tail Side Walls should beparallel when the Tail Formers have been removed.

21 Replace the spruce sticks into Tail Former 1, resting

them along the tops of the Tail Side Walls. Makesure they are flush with the vertical edges of theseside walls.

22 Glue the spruce sticks in place.

23 When the spruce sticks have cured, re-dry-fit the

Tail Spine with Tail Formers 2, 3 and 4 (F5, F6, andF7). Tack them all in place.

24 Now thoroughly glue all joints in the tail with

CA glue.

25 Cut and install the two Cross Bracings (1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa

sticks) through the openings in the Tail Spine. (SeeTop View on Plan Sheet 1 for sizing.) They can slideinto place on an angle. Glue.

A

14 T-REX

HatchParts needed:

Hatch Side Wall (x2)

Hatch Rear Wall

This section is not as simple as it looks. This is because the hatch sets the Fuselage width.

1 Dry-fit the Hatch Rear Wall into the two Hatch Side Walls.

2 Slide the 3 laser-cut parts of the Hatch into the Inner Cage.

3 Mark and cut two balsa sticks that will frame the Hatch ends.

4 Tack the sticks to

the Hatch while the Hatch isinside the Inner Cage. If you are

using CA glue, try Medium or ThickCA for this. You do not want CA to flow

out and lock the Hatch to the Inner Cage.While the Hatch is curing, leave it resting

inside the Inner Cage. Once the Hatch is cured,gently remove it and glue the joints well.

Forming the Rest of the Fuselage5 Pinch the top of the Fuselage (forward of the wing) so that the

Outer Walls are snug against the Hatch. The Hatch will hold the Fuselage the right distance apart.

6 Pull some masking tape over and around the Fuselage to hold the pinched form.

7 With everything slightly snug, cut and install balsa sticks across the top of the Inner Cage. (A)

8 Glue the balsa sticks in place once you’re satisfied it's perfect.

9 When glue for the final pieces is cured, remove the masking tape.

Total Number of Pieces Needed: 3Other: • 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Balsa sticks

• Masking tape

15T-REX

Main WingA Note for Enthusiastic Wing BuildersIf you have flipped to this section to build the wingfirst, STOP and go back! If you build the wing first,certain things will not fit later.

Before you clear out a big flat area to build the wing,first get out your bench vice. The entire wing structure,minus the sheeting, will be built off your bench vice.

Reminder that pre-assembly is required for the MainSpar and the Rear Spar. — See Plans sheet 2.

Parts needed:

Main Spar (x2)

Rear Spar (x2)

Rib D (x2)

Rib C (x10)

Rib B (x8)

Rib A (x4)

Rib X (x2) BellcrankWing Plate (x2)

Total Number of Pieces Needed: 36Other: • 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Balsa Sticks (x12)

• 3⁄8” Balsa Sticks (x4)Hardware: • Bell cranks (x4)

• Clevis (x6)• Rod Sleeve• 36” Steel Rod (threaded one end) (x2)• 12” Steel Rod (threaded one end) (x4)

Plywood Washersfrom Inner Ribs (x2)

16 T-REX

B

Main Wing

A Note Before You BeginNow is a good time to check how the Wing Cage fits intothe Saddle. If you find it tight, you can sand any pointsthat bind. The matching done previously should haveyielded a nice fit already.

1 Clamp the Wing Cage in a bench vice by the bottom

of the Main Root Spar. The only Wing Cage areahaving glue should be the bit that holds the SparDoublers to the Main Root Spar. All other wing partsmust be dry-fitted before any gluing takes place.

2 Insert one of the two Main Spars into one end of the

Main Root Spar. The hooks that mate the twosections will hold the Main Spar in place.

3 While the Main Spar is suspended, dry-fit Ribs A to C.

Start at the Root-end first. Note that Ribs B & C sharea spot in the Main Spar.

4 Once all ribs (except Rib D) are seated, dry-fit a1⁄4”x1⁄4” balsa stick along the top center channel ofthe Main Spar as shown. The stick must contact theWing Spine and fit along the length of half of thewing.

5 Repeat step 4 for the bottom channel on the

underside of the wing. This time, though, the stickstarts at the servo passage in the Main Root Spar asshown in the lowest photo.• If a stick is having trouble fitting, try rotating it.Take your time; do not use too much force.

• The sticks will hug the Main Spar. (See photo.)

6 Dry-fit 2 long balsa sticks along the forward section

of the wing. These sticks start at different points: theupper stick starts on Rib X and must not pass overthe Inner Rib. The lower stick starts under the InnerRib and extends to the wing tip.

7 Repeat step 2 to 6 to create the other side of the

wing.

8 Seat the wing in the Saddle. You will see that it

forces the ribs to widen and hug the Fuselage.Measure, mark and cut a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick. It shouldcross the top front of the Wing Cage and be flushwith the outer edges of the Inner Ribs. See (B) in topillustration.

Servo Passage

17T-REX

Main Wing

9 Dry-fit the 2 Bellcrank Wing Plates between the

ribs marked on the Plans. This must be done beforethe Rear Spar is installed.

10 Dry-fit one Rear Spar into place. Slide it up into

each rib, gradually working it up so that it is flushalong the bottom of the ribs.

11 Repeat step 10 for the Rear Spar on the other side

of the wing.

Gentle Adjustments to the Wing1 Have a look down the wing. You will notice that

the Main Spar may curve slightly. Adjust the MainSpar very lightly by hand to straighten the wing.Make sure the wing is not swept back or forward.

2 Once you’re satisfied that each side is perfectly

straight, you may glue each joint with Thin CA. Trynot to miss any joints and try not to handle thewing until the glue has cured. Glue all points in theWing Cage as well.

The Trailing Edge1 When the glue has cured, flip the wing upside

down and gently lock it into the vice by clampingit on the top two Main Spar sticks (on an angle asshown).

2 Pull out a 3⁄8" balsa stick and check for a curve in it.

3 Dry-fit this stick into the trailing edge of the wing.

If the stick has a curve to it, make sure the curve isbending out, and not up or down.

4 Glue the 3⁄8" balsa stick to the ribs one at a time

starting on Rib X. Try not to bend the wing whilegluing the trailing edge.

5 After the first stick is secured in place, pull out

another and glue it to the back of the first.

6 Repeat step 2-5 for the other side of the wing.

• We chose to build the trailing edge in this way sowe could ensure a straight trailing edge. If it wasmade from 3⁄8"x3⁄4" stock, a curve in the stockcould not be corrected.

This photo shows trailing edge square stockalready trimmed, with Rib D in place.

18 T-REX

Main Wing

The Wing Tips1 At the tips of the wing are sticks that need

trimming. Trim back the sticks as shown in thephoto. Do not cut off the tabs at the ends of theMain Spar as they hold Rib D on.

2 Dry-fit Rib D onto the tips of the wing. Trim back

the trailing edge stock to allow Rib D to contactthe Rear Spar. Once Rib D is seated, glue it in place.

Creating the Leading Edge Spar1 Using a Balsa Stripper, slice wide strips from the 1⁄8"

sheeting provided to make the Leading Edge Spar.

2 Dry-fit the balsa strips into the leading edge slots.

It will likely take 2 strips to fill the space.

3 Rib D also has a slot opening for a Leading Edge

Spar to slide into. However, because the laser doesnot cut angles, you must trim one side of the slotopening to 45˚.

4 When the Leading Edge Spars are trimmed to

length and fit perfectly, glue the joints with CA andlet cure.

Setting Up the BellcranksInstructions are for a single-servo configuration only.

1 Locate the 4 Plywood Washers that came out of

the Inner Ribs.

2 Take a 30" steel rod and cut 10" off the end, leaving

the longer section with the threaded end. Put thecut end of this longer section through a Z-Bender,and make a Z-bend.

3 Take the second 30" steel rod and cut 8" off the

end, leaving the longer section with the threadedend. Z-bend the end of the long piece as before.(Put the leftover steel rods aside for later use.)

4 Since a single servo configuration requires the

servo to be on one side of the Wing Spine, youmust use the longer control rod on the wing sidefarthest from the servo. Choose which side you willhave your servo on and use the longer control rodwhere appropriate.

5 Feed the Z-bent end of one long rod through the

ribs to the location of the Wing Bellcrank Plate.

• At this point, you need to widen some Bellcrank holes.The Bellcranks in the wings are designed for clevisconnections, so they have holes a little too small for therods we are using. Use a 5⁄64" drill-bit to widen the hole.Alternatively, use a narrow hobby knife to widen theholes. (See diagram for which holes need widening)Widen the holes by turning the blade inside them. Checkfrequently on the fit of the rod; when the rod will squeakthrough with a bit of force, then it is wide enough.

19T-REX

Main Wing

6 Now hook the bent end into the

Bellcrank.

7 Install the Bellcrank into the

Bellcrank Wing Plate as shown onthe Plans sheet 2. All Bellcranks aremounted to the underside of themounting plates. The smallerWasher is used on the Bellcrank sidewhile the larger Washer is usedunder the nut. Glue washers.

8 Cut a Rod Sleeve in half. From the

threaded end of the steel rod, slideon one piece of the Rod Sleeve.

9 Spin a clevis onto the threaded end

of the long rod.

10 Install the Bellcrank for this clevis to

attach to, on the underside of theCenter Bellcrank Plate.

11 Clip the clevis to this Bellcrank.

12 Repeat this process (steps 5 to 11) for

the other long threaded steel rod onthe other side of the wing.

13 In order to anchor the Control Rod’s

Sleeve, locate a rib mid-way betweenthe Center Bellcrank and the WingBellcrank. Note the location wherethe Control Rod passes through therib. Carve a slot into a punched-outbalsa oval (obtained from one of theribs.) The slot length should matchthe position where the Control Rodpasses through the rib. Now positionthe slot around the Control Rod,making sure the Sleeve is centered.Dry fit the oval into the rib opening.(Minor flexing of the Control Rod isnormal.) Cut a small scrap of balsawood and glue it to the side of theoval, preventing the Control Rodfrom shifting. Glue the oval into therib. Glue the Sleeve to both the slotand the scrap balsa.— See lowest photo on page18.

Use this assemblylayout for BellcrankWing Plate

Bottom View(same as on

page 2 of plans)

Break off the pin armfrom one clevis. Attachthe remaining arm tothe Bellcrank using thepin of the second clevis.

20 T-REX

Main Wing

Controlling the Ailerons1 Take the four 12” steel rods threaded on one side,

and cut 7” off each rod, leaving 5” of rod with athreaded end.

2 Put each 5” rod through your Z-Bender to create a

Z-bend on each.

3 Shoehorn the Z-bent rods into the holes of the

Wing Bellcranks (as shown on page 19) withoutremoving the Bellcranks.

4 Cut the Ailerons to length. (See Plans sheet 2.)

5 Use a dremel-tool with a large disc to cut two

Hinge openings on each Aileron. Cut matchingHinge openings in the trailing edge of the wing.

6 For each of the Ailerons, dry fit the Hinges into

both the Wing and the Ailerons .

7 Pin the Hinges with round toothpicks. Use at least

2 toothpicks for each side of the Hinge.[Pinning hinge]: Round toothpicks inserted throughthe holes of the hinge and through the undersideof the wing/aileron surface — locking the hinge.

8 Remove the brass center-pin from each Hinge to

free the Ailerons from the Wing. Cut toothpicksflush with surface.

9 Wick-in CA glue to cement Hinges in place. Be

careful not to get CA into the center-pin holes. Donot reconnect Hinges until CA is safely cured.

10 Install Control Horns on Ailerons in positions

shown on the Plans sheet 2. You will need to cutaway a small portion below the Control Hornfootprint — to allow the Control Horn to berecessed. This is so that the screws of the ControlHorn can sufficiently reach the mating nylon plate.

11 Thread a Clevis half-way onto the end of each of

the 5” Aileron Control Rods. When Wing is finallyassembled, connect Clevises to the Control Hornsand adjust.

Wing Locking Fork

The Locking Fork will allow you to secure the wing inplace without the use of nylon bolts or rubber bands.When the wing is on the Saddle, the Locking Fork isfitted into place through the Hatch. Installation andremoval of the wing is very fast.

1 Locate a short section of 3⁄8” square stock. If you

remove the Hatch and look inside, just above theServo Tray, there is a notch on either side of theInner Cage. Cut the 3⁄8” Stock to fit across thatwidth; it should be about 33⁄4” across.

Pieces Needed: • Dowel (x2)• Fork Plate (x2)

Other: • 3⁄8” Square Stock (small piece)

21

Main Wing

T-REX

Main Gear BlockThe Main Gear Block is fairly simple in its design. It isessentially a wire in a plywood sandwich.

1 On one Main Gear Plate, lay all three Wire Keys in

place around the Main Gear Wire.

2 Once you have the assembly clearly in your mind,

clear the Gear Plate.

3 Use 15 minute epoxy to cover one side of each of

the Gear Plates.

4 Reassemble all parts, and sandwich them with the

other epoxy-covered Gear Plate.

5 Make sure the Keys stay flush with the edges of the

Gear Plates as they are sandwiched.

6 When it is able to be handled but is still not dry,

place the Main Gear Block in a bench vice. You willhave to watch the position of all parts closely asyou slowly compress it in the vice. Use a flat screw-driver to push in the Keys if they slide out ofposition.

7 Crank the bench vice tightly. Epoxy may start to

leak out the sides.

8 Make sure that all parts are flush to each other

around the Gear Block. Ensure the Gear Wire is aslevel as possible.

9 After the Main Gear Block has cured (about 1 hour),

carefully clean off all excess epoxy with a strongknife or a dremel tool.

10 Install the wing on the Fuselage using the Wing

Locking Fork.

11 Dry fit the Main Gear Block into the Fuselage and

set the plane on a flat surface.

12 Measure from two common points under the wing

to check for a level wing position.

• If the wing is not level, adjustments can be made tothe Main Gear Wire using a vice.

13 Glue the Main Gear Block to the Saddle Former (F3)

once you have ensured a level wing.

14 Behind the Main Gear Block, glue an extra chunk of

scrap balsa in the corner of the Main Gear Blockand the Fuselage wall. This step can prevent youfrom losing the Gear if your plane impacts theground vertically.

Wire Key 1

Wire Key 2

Main Gear Plate

2 Sandwich the 3⁄8” Stock between the two Fork

Plates. Keep the flat tops of the Fork Plates andStock flush with each other.

3 Slide the Dowels through the holes far enough

that the non-tapered ends are flush with theoutside of the first Fork Plate.

4 Holding this assembly in your fingers, slide it in

through the Hatch opening, inserting the Dowelsinto the holes of the Lock Former (F2).

5 The 3/8” square Stock should be resting in the

notches of the Inner Cage, sandwiched betweenthe two Fork Plates.

6 Tack both Fork Plates to the sandwiched 3⁄8” Stock.

7 Let cure. Then remove the Fork from the Fuselage

to thoroughly glue all parts.

22 T-REX

Sheeting the Underside of the WingWhen sheeting under the wing, it is best to have thewing upside down with half of the wing hanging offthe work surface.

1 Reconnect the Hinges for the Ailerons on one side

of the Wing.

2 Connect the Clevises to the Aileron Control Horns

adjusting Clevises as needed.

3 Position 1⁄16” sheeting along Main Spar as shown in

Figure A, and in the photo on page 23. Position thesheet between Rib X and the Inner Rib.

4 Mark on the sheeting the areas where the Aileron

Control Rods will need to exit through thesheeting.

5 Lay the sheeting on a flat surface and cut the two

long slots (about 1”) needed for the Rods to passthrough. Cut each slot as wide as needed.

Sheeting the Upper Wing1 Using the 1⁄16” sheeting provided, position the first

sheet along the topside of the trailing edge, lettingthe full length of the sheet hang past the tip of thewing. The corner of the sheet should start betweenRib X and the Inner Rib.

2 Glue the sheet along the trailing edge only.

3 Once glue is cured, stand the wing up on its

unsheeted end.

4 Use Thin CA to bond the sheeting to the top of the

ribs by applying the glue from the inside of thewing. This orientation prevents the wing fromflexing or twisting while gluing. You must glueeach rib one at a time, waiting for each rib tocompletely cure before moving to the next one.Start with Rib X and work your way up.

5 When you reach Rib D, trim off the excess sheeting

leaving about 1⁄4" overhang.

6 Then glue Rib D to the sheeting.

7 Repeat this process (step 1 to 6) for the other side

of the wing.

8 Once both sides have one sheet on, position

another sheet in front of the first, starting at thesame Rib X position. This time, tack the sheetingon the Main Spar at Rib X and again at Rib D.

9 Glue the sheeting along the Main Spar and along

each rib from inside the wing as before.

10 This second sheet will overhang the leading edge

of the wing. Once glue is cured, trim the sheetingabout 1⁄4” past the Leading Edge.

11 When you reach Rib D, again trim off the excess

sheeting leaving a 1⁄4" overhang. Glue Rib D to thesheeting, then trim all the excess sheeting from thetip of the wing.

12 Repeat this process (step 8 to 11) for the other side

of the wing.

13 You may choose to glue a small piece of 1⁄16” balsa

below the sheeting joint to add strength and evenout the surface. See (C) in Figure A.

CFigure A

Sheeting

23

Sheeting

T-REX

6 Remove the Clevises from the Control Horns.

7 Remove the Ailerons by pulling out the brass pins

from the Hinges.

8 Reposition the sheeting on the wing while passing

the Aileron Control Rods through the open slots.

9 With the sheet in place, glue along the trailing

edge of the wing using Thin CA.

• The next process is tricky but necessary and must bedone using Medium CA glue.

10 When the glued edge is cured, lift the free side of

the sheeting away from the wing and applyMedium CA to each rib (Rib X to Rib D). Gentlypress sheeting against the glued sections until it iscured. Be sure wing is lying on a flat surface.

11 Closely Trim off excess sheeting from the tip of the

wing leaving no overhang. You need the remnantsfor the center section of the wing.

12 Repeat this process (step 1 to 11) for the other side

of the wing.

13 When both lower sides of the Wing have one piece

of sheeting on, cut a 3/4” strip of 1/16” balsasheeting, and glue it to cover the trailing edgesection — hiding the pinned hinges.

14 Next, position the 1⁄16” balsa sheeting you just cut

the strip from, beside the first, starting at the sameRib X position.

15 On this sheet, mark a line where Ribs B and C share

the same position. (This is where the leading edgeof the wing changes shape—the “droop”.)

16 Place the sheet on a flat work surface. Starting 23⁄4”

away from the Main Spar edge, cut on your marktoward the Leading Edge. Use a square to make aperfect 90˚ cut.

17 Reposition the sheeting on the wing to check how

it fits.

18 Glue sheeting along Main Spar and along all ribs in

the same manner as before using Medium CA.

19 Trim off the excess sheeting from the leading edge

as shown in Figure A and the lowest photo here.

24

Sheeting

T-REX

20 Closely trim off excess sheeting from the tip of the

wing leaving no overhang.

21 Repeat this process (step 14 to 20) for the other

side of the wing.

22 Cut a 1⁄2” wide strip of 1⁄8” sheeting. Use this to cap

off the leading edge.

23 Glue this strip to the face of the Leading Edge.

24 Once glued has cured, trim off the excess sheeting

and gently sand the Leading Edge to produce around profile. (Consult Figure A, page 22.)

25 To finish the wing tips, shave any excess sheeting

flush with Rib D. This will require you to shave asmall flat area along the edge of Rib D to allow thesheeting to fully contact the Rib. Sand the wing tipsmooth.

Sheeting the Center of the Wing 1 Cut and position a section of sheeting from the

Main Root Spar to the front of the Wing Spine. Thegrain for this sheet is the same as the wings. (R)

2 Once sheeting fits snug, glue from the underside

with Thin CA.

3 Using a knife and ruler, cut off four pieces of 1⁄16”

sheeting, with each strip being 11⁄4” wide and atleast 9” long.

4 The two center strips should be glued to meet

along the top of the Wing Spine.

5 Glue down the last strips.

6 Working from the inside, glue short strips of

sheeting directly to the underside of the topsheeting at (D), with the grain direction goingopposite to the grain of the top sheeting.

7 Trim off the top sheeting that hangs past Spine

Former 2 and sand.

D

R

25

Sheeting

T-REX

SHEETGRAIN DIRECTION

Fuselage SheetingOne key process to locking the fuselage straight andtrue, is to sheet the tail’s underside with cross-grain 1⁄8"balsa.

1 First install the Lower Tail Plate. It fits inside and

flush with the bottom of the Tail Side Walls.

2 Glue in the 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa support stick on the lower

back side of Tail Former 4 (F7). It fits into the cornerof (F7) and the Lower Tail Plate.

3 Flip the Fuselage over. Situate it on a flat surface so

it is stable.

• Note the recessed area between the Lower TailPlate and Inner Cage; sheet between these points.

4 Lay the 4"X48"X1⁄8" sheeting across the tail’s

underside. Cut each section a little longer than thewidth of the tail section you will be applying it to.Repeat this until you have all the sections you willneed.

5 With Medium CA, glue on each section starting

from the Lower Tail Plate.

6 Trim and sand the excess sheeting from the sides.

You can give the underside of the tail a nice roundcorner if you like.

1⁄8" Sheeting

Pieces Needed: Lower Tail PlateOther: • 4”x48”x1⁄8” Balsa sheet

• 1⁄4”x1⁄4” Balsa Stick

26

Sheeting

T-REX

RETURN TO THIS PAGE AFTER THE WING IS FULLYCONSTRUCTED AND SHEETED.

• As the diagram indicates, you will now sheet theunderside of the Fuselage, the two top sections of theFuselage around the Hatch, and the Hatch top. • All 1⁄8” sheeting is to be installed cross-grain — thesame way the sheeting was installed on the undersideof the tail.

1 The Upper and Underside of the Fuselage:

Place the sheeting across the opening of the twoOuter Walls. The sheeting needs to fit into the lipcreated by the Inner Cage and the Outer Wall. Markthe sheeting.

2 Cut the sheet on your mark and glue in place.

3 The Hatch: The Hatch should be taken out of the

Cage when gluing the sheeting to it.

4 Test the fit of the Hatch after sheeting it. It should

be flush with the Fuselage top. The Hatch shouldbe snug but still easily removed. Remember thatthe covering will add some thickness to the Hatch,so try not to make the fit too snug.

5 Now that the sheeting is done, go over the whole

Fuselage with some glue. Run extra glue in thejoint areas and stress points. The Fuselage at thispoint should be fairly rigid. It will get more rigidonce your chosen covering is applied.

• If you are making a trike and have decided tomount your Nose Gear behind the Firewall (F1),you may want to create a small opening in thesheeting to let the Nose Gear through.

This is what the Fuselage will look like after it is sheeted.

27

Sheeting

T-REX

Sheeting Grain

Sheeting Grain

Fin

Grain

Sheeting Grain

StabGrain

Sheeting the Tail Surfaces• Both the Horizontal Stab and the Vertical Fin are madefrom laminated Balsa. Use the two provided 1⁄16" balsasheets to laminate the laser cut tail surfaces. Be sure toapply sheeting cross-grain to that of the laser-cut parts.See diagram for grain directions.

• Since this area of the plane is made from thin sheetsof balsa, it is mandatory that CA be used to bond thesheeting to the inner layer. Use of carpenter's glue, orwood glue will cause the parts to warp very quickly.

• Complete this section on a flat surface. Nocompression of the assembled parts is necessary.

1 From each sheet of 1⁄16" balsa you can cover one

side of the Vertical Fin and one side of theHorizontal Stab. Placelaser cut Fin andStab in oppositecorners of thepiece of sheeting.

2 Since the Stab is too

wide for a piece of 6"sheeting, use the scrapsleftover after cutting the Staband Fin, to sheet the remaining 2small triangles of the Stab.

3 Repeat this laminating method for both

sides of the Horizontal Stab and the VerticalFin. The only difference should be that once oneside has been sheeted, use Medium CA (not Thin)to glue the second side of the Stab and Fin.

28 T-REX

Rudder and Elevator Control Sticks• Before you build these two control sticks, take time to install your servos.• This kit uses 3⁄8" square stock for controlling theRudder and Elevator. Square stock is light and strongand requires no support for long distances.

1 Find the two shorter pieces of steel rod (10" & 8")

that were cut off the 30" rods used in the wing. Usea Z-bender, or vice grips to bend one end of eachrod to 90˚. About 1⁄4" of bent rod should be plenty.

2 Cut one 3⁄8" stick, the Rudder Control Stick, to 34"

and the other, the Elevator Control Stick, to 37".

• The following process (step 3 to 8 ) will be doneon both of the Control Sticks.

3 Carve a 21⁄2" narrow channel into the side of one

end of the stick. (1⁄16" deep is all that is necessary.)

4 Drill a hole 1⁄4" deep, at the end of the carved

channel.

5 Place the bent steel rod into the hole and channel

of the Control Stick.

6 Covering will be used to secure the position of the

bent steel rod. Cut yourself a section of coveringabout 3" wide and 5" long.

7 Using an iron, tack one end of the covering to the

side of the stick end. Wrap the covering around thestick. Turn your iron to MAX, and apply heat toeach side of the covering. This will tighten it up.

Parts Needed:Your choice of Covering

(x2) Your servos

(x2) 3⁄8" balsa stick(x1) 10" leftover steel rod (no threaded ends)(x1) 8" leftover steel rod (no threaded ends)(x1) 48"x2"x1⁄4" elevator stock

1⁄8" scrap balsa1⁄4"x1⁄4" scrap balsa sticks

(x1) control horn, plate and screw(x6) hinges

And from the Control Package:

(x2) 6" threaded rod(x2) clevis(x1) horn wire (the steel rod that has two 90˚ bends

and a nylon bearing on it)(x2) solder link (looks like a silver clevis)(x1) steel lock collar(x1) nylon arm link (that holds the steel lock collar)(x1) sleeve (small, black and rubber)(x1) adjusting screw

Tail Mechanics

29

Tail Mechanics

T-REX

8 Flow Thin CA down the rod, into the channel.

9 Now that you have attached these steel rods to the

Control Sticks, you will have to repeat this process(step 3 - 8 ) on the other ends of these ControlSticks using the two 6” threaded rods from theControl Package. Be sure to create the channel andhole on the same side as the other end’s channeland hole.

10 When you have finished step 9, attach a Clevis to

the end of each threaded rod. (Thread half-way.You need room for adjustments.)

11 Pass the Rudder Control Stick into the Fuselage on

the port side. Be sure to look at the Plans for theproper orientation of the stick.

12 Pass the Elevator Control Stick into the Fuselage on

the starboard side. Again, be sure to look at thePlans for the proper orientation of the stick.

13 Attach the Clevised-ends of these Control Sticks to

the appropriate Servos.

Vertical Fin and Rudder1 Cut the elevator stock to the width of the

Horizontal Stab. This piece is for the Elevator. Put itaside. The remaining piece is for the Rudder.

2 The Rudder piece needs to be trimmed to match

the angle along the top of the Vertical Fin. Noticehow the Vertical Fin leans forward. (see plans)

3 Cover (with Monokote, UltraCote...your choice) the

Vertical Fin, the Horizontal Stab and the Elevator.Do not cover the Rudder yet.

4 Drill a small hole into the Rudder stock (at 13⁄8”

from the bottom of the Rudder) to feed the shortarm of the Horn Wire into.

5 Carve a small groove from the hole in the Rudder

to the bottom of the Rudder. This recessed areawill house the main shaft of the Horn Wire and willprevent it from rubbing against the Vertical Fin. Besure that the Nylon Bearing (of the Horn Wire)starts about 1⁄2” below the short arm. You may haveto carve a bit deeper and wider for the back of theNylon Bearing. It needs to move freely.

6 Glue the short arm of the Horn Wire into the hole

and groove on the Rudder. Be very careful not toglue the Nylon Bearing area.

7 Cover the Rudder.

30

Tail Mechanics

T-REX

Horizontal Stab and Elevator1 Install the four Hinges for the Horizontal Stab and

the Elevator (as done for the Hinges on theRudder.)

2 Install the Control Horn on the Elevator (slightly to

the starboard side of center as that is the sidedown which the Elevator Control Stick comes.)

3 Attach a Solder Link into the last hole of the

Control Horn.

4 Dry-fit the Horizontal Stab onto the Fuselage. (Slide

it in from behind.)

5 Mark and cut the rear steel rod of the Elevator

Control Stick to fit into the Solder Link.

6 Solder the rear steel rod into the Solder Link while

the Servo and the Elevator are in neutral positions.(The servo control arm should be perpendicular tothe Control Stick and the Elevator should behorizontal.)

7 In order to glue the Horizontal Stab to the

Fuselage, it must make wood-to-wood contact.While the Horizontal Stab is still dry-fit on, draw aline on the underside of the Stab, tracing theoutside of the Fuselage. This will show you howmuch of the Horizontal Stab makes contact withthe Fuselage.

8 Remove the Horizontal Stab (disconnect the Solder

Link from the Control Horn), and cut the coveringinside the traced mark by 1⁄16”. Remove thecovering from that center section.

9 You can now glue on the Horizontal Stab. (Some

modelers choose to cover the entire tail first andthen glue on the Horizontal Stab — ensuringwood-to-wood contact by cutting away theappropriate areas of covering on the Fuselage)

10 Now test the Elevator Servo with an active radio.

8 Line the Rudder up with the Vertical Fin and mark

the location on the Vertical Fin where the NylonBearing will enter it. Mark too, where the openingsfor the two hinges on the Vertical Fin and Rudderneed to be cut. (Refer to page 1 of the Plans forHinge locations.)

9 Use a dremel tool with a cutting disc or a hinge

cutting tool to make these Hinge and NylonBearing openings.

10 Trim the longest arm of the Horn Wire back to 7⁄8”.

11 Assemble the Solder Link, rubber sleeve, Nylon

Arm Link, Steel Lock Collar and Adjusting Screw onthis shortened Horn Wire arm (as seen in thephoto).

12 Glue Hinges and Nylon Bearing into the Vertical Fin

and into the corresponding openings on theRudder. Use epoxy.

13 Dry-fit the Vertical Fin into the Lower Tail Plate.

Make sure the Vertical Fin is straight.

14 Mark and then cut the rear steel rod of the Rudder

Control Stick to fit into the Solder Link.

16 Slide black, rubber Sleeve out of the way. Solder

the rear steel rod into the Solder Link while theServo and the Rudder are in neutral positions. (Theservo control arm should be perpendicular to theControl Stick and the Rudder should be parallel to

the Control Stick.) Replace the Sleeve.

17 Glue in the 1⁄8” scrap balsa and sticks needed to

retain the Vertical Fin. (See Plans page 1 & 2.) Thiswill fill the small gap between the Horizontal Stableading edge and the top of Tail Former 4 (F7).

18 When the glue has cured, glue joints of the Vertical

Fin and Lower Tail Plate.

19 Now test the Rudder Servo with an active radio.

31T-REX

Fuselage CoveringThe Covering sequence is as follows:• The underside of the Fuselage from end to end.• Upper Fuselage sections, in front and behind theHatch.• Top and sides of tail to the mid-point of the Saddle.• Fuselage sides from engine to mid-point of Saddle. • Hatch.Note: The Vertical Fin & Rudder and Horizontal Stab &Elevator have already been covered.

When covering the Fuselage, be sure to wrap plenty ofcovering over the wing Saddle walls. You need to applyfoam tape along the top of both sides of the WingSaddle. Do this after it’s been covered as the foam tapesticks better to covering than to wood.

When you are covering near the front of the Fuselage(the Wall Liners area, the top of the Fuselage in front ofthe Hatch, and the forward section of the underside),wrap some covering into the Firewall area. The epoxy

used to seal the Firewall area will seal the edge of thecovering to the wood, preventing fuel frompenetrating and separating the covering from theFuselage.

If, after the tail is covered, the Horizontal Stab is notlevel with the wing, twist the Horizontal Stab past thecorrect angle, and run a hot iron along the top of thetail. Once you let go, the Horizontal Stab will rest level.

Gluing the Firewall SurfaceApply loads of epoxy to the Firewall and Wall Liners. Ifyou are creating a trike, be sure not to glue your BlindNuts closed.

Covering the WingCover the wing with Ailerons removed. Cover theAilerons and reinstall them after the covering iscomplete.

The Hatch Tongue

To secure the Hatch in place, use the Hatch Tongue.Build a platform between the upper Fuselage sticks.(See (A) on page 14.) Glue the Hatch Tongue to theunderside of this platform. Attach a Rare Earth Magnetto the top of the Tongue. Epoxy a metal washer to theunderside of the Hatch. To allow the magnet andwasher to connect, break off the perforated tab on theRear Hatch Wall.

Finishing Touches

To open the Hatch, install a finger-size loop of fishingline on the Rear Hatch Wall.

104 Malcolm St.Almonte, Ontario,

CanadaK0A 1A0

© 2004 MosquitoBite PlanesAll Rights Reserved

www.mosquitobiteplanes.com