Columbus Crave

local buzz OhiO’s wines

at workbehind the scenes at martini

Fall 2011 l $3.99ColumbusCrave.com

www.cafeistanbul.com3989WorthAvenue - Easton, Columbus,OH 43219

Phone: 614-473-9144

www.cafeistanbul.com3989WorthAvenue - Easton, Columbus,OH 43219

Phone: 614-473-91443983

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�� Whether you’re hosting an intimate dinner with friends, an annual picnic, a company meeting or a celebratory brunch, our Event Planners can help you select a menu to please one and all from our new 2011 Event Planning Menu with exciting, exclusive, chef-created dishes.

Featuring our Chefs’ best — everything from cookout classics, fine dinner entrées and artisan salads to sandwich boards, artisan cheeses and charcuterie platters — our new menu allows you to host events big and small with ease and taste!

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Call 614.538.0783 or visit MarketDistrict.com/EventPlanning for more information.

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Kingsdale3061 Kingsdale CenterUpper Arlington, OH 43221614.538.0762

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2268 East Main StreetBexley, OH 43209

(614) 235-4300 • www.giuseppesritrovo.comfacebook@giusppesritrovobar • twitter@giuseppesbexley

GIUSEPPE’S INVITES YOU TO COME HAVE A SEAT AT OUR BAR!The bartenders of Giuseppe’s Ritrovo in Bexley have been diligently working to provide the most diverse craft cocktail experience in

Columbus. It is our goal to bring the city’s cocktail experience inline with the cocktail renaissance that is currently taking place

throughout the country. We are very proud to feature our unique summer cocktail list.

Remember... cocktails should be a journey, a memory. Please enjoy the spirit of spirits. • Saluté! Bartenders of the Ritrovo.

An Honest Interpretation of Italian Cuisine




Join Giuseppe’s bartenders for Happy Hour,

Monday through Friday 4:30 to 6:30

Join Giuseppe’s bartenders for Happy Hour,

Monday through Friday 4:30 to 6:30

BUILD. EAT. REPEAT.

www.shafferconstruction.com | 614-488-4681

Asian Fusion BistrosRoyal Ginger

1625 West Lane Ave.Upper Arlington, OH 43221

614.488.7888

Sunday-Saturday • 11am - 10:30pm

Blue Ginger6234 Sawmill Rd.Dublin, OH 43017

614.792.3888

Sunday-Saturday • 11am - 10:30pm

Appetizers • Soups & Salads • Mee & Noodles • Asian Specialties Work n’ Grill • Sushi & Sashimi • Rolls & Hand Rolls • Specialty Rolls

Sushi & Sashimi Combo

Thailand • Japan • China • Vietnam • Malaysia & Indonesia

Happy HourMonday-Tuesday 5pm-9:30pm

Drink SpecialsHalf Price Regular Sushi Rolls

contentsFall 2011 l ColumbusCrave.com

T h e C o l u m b u s d i n i n g m a g a z i n e

Starters 8Editor’sNote 16Craveworthy Shoppingforwine-related

goodies 18Scoop �Late�Night

Slice’s�SlutSauce�andaregularatMonte�Carlo�

22Events Crave’sonthesceneat

foodieeventsaroundtown 27CraveCalendar Planoutyourseason

Food 32StripSearch Vietnamesecomfort

foodoff161 34Neighborhood Grandvieweats

38StreetEats TakoyakifromFreshStreet 40OntheGo Mediterraneantakeoutfrom

Lavash 42RequiredEating Fourtakesonroasted

chicken 44What’sHot Lavender 46Flavors Chilloutwiththecity’s

growingfrozenyogurtscene 48AtHome Peekinsidethekitchenof

LucechefPhilGulis 52AtWork AdayinthelifeofaMartini

linecook

Drink106OhioWine Explorethestate’s

wineries&vineyards114PerfectPairings Whattoorderwith

DeepWood’sstripsteak116Advice Avoidwatered-downdrinks118ClosingTime Club185’sCotyHildebrand

sharesherfavoriteplacestoeatanddrinkinColumbus

Sweet120AppleNapoleon Anindulgentendingat

BlackCreekBistro

CoverPhotobyjoDimiller

CoverStoryTheCrave10

ThebestrestaurantsinColumbus

Plus!10morerestaurants

welove

66

6 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l f a l l 2 0 1 1

Contentsphoto:WillShilling

Above,�AyuatKihachi.On�the�cover,�PolentaLasagnaatDragonfly.

T R A D I T I O N A L I N G R E D I E N T S ,

L O C A L L Y G R O W N S E R V I N G

T H E F I N E S T

A R C H I T E C T U R E I N C E N T R A L O H I O

F O R N E A R L Y 1 5 Y E A R S .

Meleca Architecture, specialists inrestaurant architecture and design.

See our work at:Lindey’s German Village • Brio Tuscan Grille

Bravo Lennox Town Center • Bon VieCafé Istanbul • Bel Lago (formerly Hoover Grille)

Athletic Club of Columbus - Grille RoomCup O’ Joe Lennox Town Center

Johnny Buccelli’s

144 East State St., Columbus, OH 43215614-224-0343 • www.meleca.com

PublisherKatie�Wolfe�Lloyd

[email protected]

DirectorofNichePublicationsBrian�Lindamood

[email protected]

EditorShelley�Mann

[email protected]

CreativeDirectorWill�Shilling

DesignEditorYogesh�Chaudhary

PhotographersJodi�Miller�andEric�Wagner�

ContributingWritersG.A.�Benton,�Robin�Davis,�Chris�DeVille,�Faith�Durand,��

Jackie�Mantey,�Jill�Moorhead�andBethia�Woolf

OfficeManagerSilvana�Hildebrandt�

[email protected]

ADVERTISINGNichePublicationsAdvertisingManager

Amy�[email protected]

RestaurantAccountExecutiveErica�Phillips�

[email protected]

SubSCRIPTIONSDon’tmissanissue:HaveCravedeliveredtoyourhome.

Subscriptionsareavailablefor$10foroneyear(5issues).Toorder,calltoll-free855-686-2363orvisitColumbusCrave.com.

CravemagazineispublishedanddistributedbytheDispatchPrint-ingCompanyfourtimesayear.Craveisnotresponsibleforunso-licitedphotographs,manuscriptsorothermaterials.Reproductionofcontentswithoutexpresswrittenpermissionisprohibited.

Copyright�©�2011�The�Dispatch�Printing�Company.

34S.thirdSt.Columbus,oh43215614-461-8700ColumbusCrave.com

8 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l f a l l 2 0 1 1

starters editor’s note

Hungry Planet, the new exhibit at Franklin Park Conservatory, re-

volves around Peter Menzel’s large-scale photographs of families from around the world surrounded by a week’s worth of food. The intent is to em-phasize the disparity between the amount of food consumed by Americans and, say, people in Mongolia.

It got me thinking about what a week’s worth of my meals would look like. Now, I understand that my meals wouldn’t be making the same kind of statement as Menzel’s. No, mine would be less political, more work of art.

I feel so lucky to be able to eat in the city’s best restaurants, many of them highlighted in this issue, and to be served the city’s prettiest plates of food. Plates that make my heart skip a beat when they’re set down in front of me.

I try to share as many of these meals as I can on my blog at ColumbusCrave.com, but sadly a camera phone can’t really capture the magic of a gorgeous plate of food.

Professional photographers like Will Shilling and Jodi Miller, however, can capture that magic. For evidence, just flip through this issue. Their photos are a stunning tribute to the quality of food being put out in Columbus.

So when I put together my own photo exhibit of food in Columbus, I’m going to have Will and Jodi tag along

with me and take pictures of everything I eat.

In the meantime, in the spirit of this issue’s top 10 theme, I’m going to tell you about the 10 loveliest plates I had the pleasure of eating as we put together this fall issue. Check out my iPhone photos of them online at ColumbusCrave.com.

1. Lobster Risotto at Basi Italia: A striking lobster tail towers above sweet corn risotto and tomato jam.

2. Pear Tart at the Refectory:Turn to page 80 to ogle the city’s best looking dessert, starring masterfully layered pear slices.

3. Takoyaki at Fresh Street: These Japanese street food dumplings are served in an adorable little wooden canoe.

4. Jicama Salad at Barrio: Simple and sweet—jicama matchsticks and oranges topped with a charming little tangle of herbs.

5. Farmer’s Market Parfait at Jeni’s: Lemon yogurt layered with port wine compote, fresh berries, shortbread cookies and hand-whipped cream, served in a mason jar.

6. Crispy Sesame Roll from Dragonfly’s ComFest booth: I was as surprised as anyone to find such a sophisticated bite at a festival. Considering it was from the culinary genius who created the veggie

“lasagna” gracing our cover, though, I shouldn’t have been.

7. Ceviche Salad at El Arepazo: Summer in a dish. A confetti of citrus-cured fish and diced vegetables served on crispy corn tortillas.

8. Love Connection at Lexi’s: An impossibly tall stack of delicious corned beef and pastrami makes this sandwich something special.

9. Calamari appetizer at Milestone 229: It’s served

spilling out of a Chinese takeout container, with chopsticks. Very fun.

10. Ultimate Caramel Apple Napoleon at Black Creek Bistro: You’ll get a look at pastry chef Michelle Milhous-Garland’s abstract work of art, created especially for Crave, on the very last page.

Shelley Mann, Editor

a thousand words

Shelley enjoying the Basi patio

Photo: will shilling

THE FACES OFFRESH FOOD.

Curds &Whey • The Greener Grocer • Bluescreek Farm MeatsThe Fish Guys • Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams

North Market Poultry and Game • Market BloomsOmega Artisan Bakery • and 27 more

Supporting local businesses.Nourishing our community.

Passionately preserving good taste.SINCE 1876

www.facebook.com/NorthMarket

@NorthMarket

www.northmarket.com59 Spruce Street • Downtown Columbus • (614) 463-9664 • Open daily

1 0 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l f a l l 2 0 1 1

G.A. BentonIn preparation for a

long-term gig as restaurant reviewer for Columbus Alive, G.A. majored in physics. Lately he’s been doing research for Crave in the laboratories of Columbus eateries. In this issue, G.A. reports on Grandview, great roasted chicken entrees and the best restaurants in town.

Robin DavisRobin is the food editor at

the Columbus Dispatch and hosts cooking segments at noon Wednesdays on 10TV News HD. When she’s not cooking for work or for fun, she’s eating out around town. This summer, she made it her personal mission to visit every frozen yogurt shop in Central Ohio.

Chris DeVilleChris writes about local

music and the Crew each week for Columbus Alive. When not writing he can be found jogging, mentoring teens at his church and freestyle rapping over indie-rock songs in his beat-up Honda Civic. He hopes his next Crave story involves peanut butter.

Bethia WoolfBethia’s a British transplant

who now happily calls Columbus home. She runs Columbus Food Adventures, the city’s first food tour company, and spends her free time scouting out new taco trucks and street food vendors. For this issue, Bethia caught up with the quirky couple behind the Fresh Street takoyaki stand.

starters ContRiButoRs

717 N. HIGH ST. COLS, OH 43215 T.614.221.8600

GRAND OPENING SPECIAL!

* FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY. SPECIAL MAY END AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE.NOT VALID WITH ANY OTHER OFFERS, SPECIALS OR PROMOTIONS

JOIN US

MON & WEDS5pm - 9 pm

JOIN US

MON & WEDS5pm - 9 pm

1/2 OFF ALLSUSHIROLLS1/2 OFF ALLSUSHIROLLS

1 6 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l F a L L 2 0 1 1

A few of our favorite wine-related goodies Story by Shelley MAnn l PhotoS by JoDI MIller

brittleAlong with artisan chocolates, truffles and dessert sauces, Napa Valley’s Anette’s Chocolates puts out peanut brittles made with wines, beers and liquors. This one’s got Spanish peanuts, vanilla, a touch of salt and a hint of buttery chardonnay.

Chardonnay Wine Brittle, $10 at Market District in Upper Arlington

bottle wrapYou can do better than a boring old wine bag. Pretty up your gift of wine with these reusable fabric wine bottle wraps, handmade in Columbus from vintage fabrics. Check out more designs online at theuniquebird.com.

The Unique Bird bottle wrap, $6.50 at Meza wine shop in Westerville

Wine stoppersThe well-curated home decor shop T. David moved from German Village to the Short North earlier this year, bringing with it a large selection of vintage barware. You’ll also find lots of vintage-looking bottle stoppers, including these spigot-topped ones.

Assorted wine stoppers, $18 each at T. David Collection in the Short North

Glass brushThis nifty brush is tailor-made for a tricky task—cleaning stemware. The foam brush leaves glasses streak-free, and helpfully splits in half to easily reach the bottom. It also claims to be a “lipstick eraser,” which you’ll appreciate if you’ve ever had to scrub your grandma’s wine glass.

Sparkle Clean Glass Pro, $4 at Market District in Upper Arlington

Brought to you by Mozart’s Bakery and Piano Café

Pastry chef inspiredice cream

gelato • sorbetView our complete menu offerings atwww.viennaicecafe.com

2899 N. High St.Columbus, OH. 43202614-261-7228www.mozartscafe.com LIKE US ON FACEBOOK

Now Open!

Chilling bagPerfect for picnicking or partying, this durable PVC bag can be filled with ice water to chill down bottles of white wine on the go.

Bottle Bubble Ice, $9 at Wine on High in the Short North

bruschettaAthens, Ohio-based Vino de Milo makes delicious wine-based pasta sauces, salad dressings, salsas and bruschetta toppings. Their sweet and salty Black Olive & Currant Bruschetta combines malbec with Ohio-grown tomatoes, chopped black olives and whole currants. Spoon some onto toasted baguette slices and you’re good to go.

Vino de Milo Black Olive & Currant Bruschetta, $5 at The Hills Market in Worthington


Late Night Slice’s signature Slut Sauce has become some-thing of a phenomenon.

It’s popping up on menus at other food carts (you can dip your Cheesy Truck grilled cheese in Slut Sauce), and stealing bottles of it is the new way to earn your drunken-hip-ster cred. Four to six bottles disappear each week, said Late Night Slice owner Mike Sorboro.

Sorboro, whose next project is taking over the concession stand at Newport Music Hall, filled us in on the story behind the sauce. —Shelley Mann

How was Slut Sauce born?When we started, we

wanted some dipping sauces to spread on our pies. We were messing around in the pizza shop one night and added a bunch of stuff together, and came up with a really awesome sauce. We nailed it on the first try.

How did Paris Hilton wind up on the label?

I had this idea that I wanted to do an ad with Paris eating a slice of pizza, and my head would be popping up from the corner saying, “That’s hot.” It evolved into Paris being on the Slut Sauce label.

As we grow, though, we’re anticipating a cease-and-desist. We’re going to keep Paris until it comes, then we’re going to post the letter on Facebook. We already have a drag queen lined up to pose for the new label.

Why do you think people like to steal this stuff?

Because the name and the label are funny. And because of the actual flavor—it’s that good. Our demographic is just a bunch of drunks, and drunk people like to pocket things.

It was kind of annoying at first, but we’ve embraced it. We’re working on a T-shirt that says “I stole the Slut Sauce.” The sauce is actually for sale for $10 a bottle if you don’t feel like thieving.

So can you tell us what’s in Slut Sauce?

It’s a mix of all of our sauces: ranch, hot ranch, garlic butter, sriracha, barbecue sauce. The exact proportions are a secret.

www.columbusoktob

erfest.com

September 23-25, 2011Come Join the Fun!

The Columbus Oktoberfest has beenserving up smiles for more than 45

years. Something for everyone – evenkids! Come join us for bountiful beers,tasty food, lively music, and arts andcrafts vendors. It’s a great time thatcelebrates “the spirit of enjoying life”

like none other.

Free Admission!Ohio Expo Center /

Ohio State Fairgrounds

Get ready for the

late night sauce

Mikey’s late night slice1030 n. high st., short north614-737-3488

Phot

o: Jo

di M

ille

r

scoop Pizza

Join us for Lunch Tuesday thru Friday 11am - 2pm

SAGE B.L.T.grilled brioche, avocado, fried egg, apple cider-cured bacon,

tomato, romaine, black pepper mayonnaise

Come see what everyone’s

talking about.

Have you heard?

Sage American Bistro is now

Open.

For. Lunch.


How did you find out about this place?

When I was a kid my parents used to take me once or twice a week to the old location. I brought my prom dates there and my sister had her wedding there. When they moved to this spot, I continued to stop in several times a week.

What’s your favorite dish?I can’t live without the

Cheese Ravioli. It’s stuffed with delicious cheese and spinach, and the sauce is second to none.

How’s the service?The feeling is like you’re

at home, with your brothers, sisters and parents.

Lora and Joe are like a second set of parents. If I ever need something, they’re there. They’re awesome! They go out and talk to customers and remember everyone’s names. It’s a down-home kind of thing.

How did you end up getting your own table?

One day they were so packed, there were no tables in the main dining room so they offered me the table in the kitchen. I thought it was a joke, but they weren’t joking.

Now I sit back here with these guys all the time. I watch to make sure they make the food right…not that they’d listen to me.

What should people try on the menu?

You can’t go wrong with the Spaghetti and Meatballs. They make the sauce fresh here.

Catch Karina Nova’s weekly Crave segments Saturday mornings on 10TV News HD.

lifelong fanJim Heise eats at Monte Carlo Italian Kitchen so often, they gave him his own table—in the kitchen. He’s been go-ing there so long, he refers to owner Lora Ciotola as “Mama.” Heise shared a little about his very favorite place to eat. —Karina Nova

610 W. schrock rd., Westerville; 614-890-2061montecarloitaliankitchen.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Monday-thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. friday, 3-9 p.m. saturday

Monte carlo italian kitchen

scoop regular

Photo: Will shilling

name: Jim heiseage: 36neighborhood: north sideoccupation: sales

Mexican_Cuban_Italian

LouiE’s GrillFusion Restaurant

Serving breakfast, lunch, & dinner

The Fusion Grill is a place where the different styles blend together to create a unique flavor. Everything is made from scratch!

Louiesgrillfusionrestaurant.net4453 Cemetry RdHillard777-5606

3051 Northwest BlvdUpper Arlington670-8582

Knead to know where your food comes from?Knead to know where your food comes from?

505 N High Street, Across from the Convention Center between The Short North and The Arena District

www.kneadonhigh.com 614-228-6323

Pork Tacos

Knead a burger

Veggie Enchilada

Mother Clucker

2 2 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l F a l l 2 0 1 1

Bon VieCrave launch partyTuesday, May 24

PhoTos By eriC Wagner

More than 100 foodies and VIPs gath-ered at Bon Vie to toast the first issue of Crave magazine. Guests sampled the Easton restaurant’s signature flatbreads, quesadillas and Roquefort Frites. And as they mingled on the beautiful outdoor patio, attendees sipped specialty cocktails—the bubbly Crave Cocktail, with Ciroc vodka and champagne, or the Crave-Tini, made with vodka, muddled basil and lemon.

scoop eVenTs

SERVING

MANY PURE

VEGETARIAN

DISHES

$5 OFFSecond Dinner Entrée

(eat-in only, 1 coupon per party, per table)Exp: 1/8/12

Only valid from Sunday to Thursday

By Cincinnati’s Ambar India Restaurant

LUNCH BUFFETEVERYDAY

HAPPY HOUR SPECIALS

Mon. - Thurs. 5:00 - 7:00pm• 1/2 Off Appetizers

• House Wines $4 per glass• $3 Well Drinks

• $4 Martinis

NEW HAPPY HOUR DRINK MENU

1470 Grandview Ave.(across from Giant Eagle)

614-486-2800www.aabindiarestaurant.com

OPEN DAILY

• $3 Drafts

• $2 Domestics

• $3 Import Bottles

• $5 Large Import

Bottles

HAPPYHOUR

BEER SPECIALS

Aab IndiaRestaurant

$3 OFFSecond Lunch Entrée

(eat-in only, 1 coupon per party, per table)Exp: 1/8/12

Only valid from Sunday to Thursday

CRAV

ECR

AVE


norTh MarkeTgrillmaster’s Festivalsaturday-sunday, May 28-29


To mark the official launch of the grilling season, barbecue enthusiasts showed off their skills at the North Market over Memorial Day weekend. Along with cooking demonstrations, vendors and live music, culinary contests anointed the city’s best local BBQ sauces and salsas. And Latitude 41 chef David MacLennon’s brisket helped him beat three other local chefs for the title Baron of Barbecue.

scoop eVenTs

Monday–Friday 3–7 & 9–Close(Available in Bon Vie bar area only.

Not available for carry-out or with offers or discounts.)

�B B B�

$

$MW

�WS, YE�

Every Wednesday 3 p.m. - Close

Easton Town Center(614) 416-0463

BISTRO & BAR

G M I C H A E L ’ S

P R I X F I X E M O N D AY S

3 Courses for $30

German Village �� 614.464.0575595 S. Third Street �� gmichaelsbistro.com

“G. Mike’s justly famous Shrimp & Grits”

— Columbus Alive


The BlaCkWellCooking with the starsThursday, June 23


Local chefs joined together with local celebrities to create special small plate dishes to raise money for the National Kidney Foundation. This year’s lineup of more than a dozen celebs included athletes—like OSU football stars Dewayne Carter and Dimitrious Stanley—and restaurateurs such as White Castle owner Dave Rife, all paired with chefs from local favorites like Marcella’s and the Refectory.

scoop eVenTs

Ohio ProudOVER 25 YEARS OF

QUALITY AND SERVICE

2140 Tremont Center, Upper Arlington, OH 43221– 614-486-5336 –www.huffmansmarket.com

Home Grown Produce, Dairy, and Meats

Catering & Home DeliveryCustom Wine LabelsState Liquor Store

Extensive Beer & Wine SelectionPrepared Foods

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lobster Days aug. 13, 20, 27, sept. 3The hills MarketA feast of traditional Maine Lobster Rolls, potato chips, blueberry pie and lemonade for $15. Reservations required.thehillsmarket.com

Festival latinoaug. 13-14genoa ParkFoodie fest! Grab some Puer-to Rican fare from El Pilon. festivallatino.net

hungry Planetaug. 20-nov. 16 Franklin Park ConservatoryPeter Menzel’s large-scale photos of families surrounded by a week’s worth of food are at the center of this new exhibit, which also includes cooking demos and tastings. fpconservatory.org

BaconCampaug. 27north MarketWild Goose Creative’s annual celebration of pork includes a bacon cooking contest and plenty of samples. baconcampcolumbus.com

greek Festivalsept. 2-5greek orthodox CathedralFoodie fest! Snack on gyros and souvlaki, and save room for a baklava sundae.greekcathedral.com

ohio hog roastsept. 5 The hills MarketA Labor Day tradition, with live bluegrass music, pulled pork sandwiches, baked beans and coleslaw.thehillsmarket.com

From Field to Tablesept. 16 Franklin Park ConservatoryA meal featuring local, sea-sonal ingredients to benefit the conservatory’s education programs.fpconservatory.org

Microbrew Festivalsept. 16-17north MarketSample beers from our home-state breweries: Barley’s, Columbus Brewing, Elevator, Gordon Biersch, Hoster, Neil House and Weasel Boy.northmarket.com

Food & Wine affair grand Tastingsept. 23 Franklin Park ConservatoryHundreds of wines and tastes from dozens of Central Ohio restaurants will be served on the conservatory grounds. foodandwineaffair.com

local Foods Weekoct. 1-8Local Matters’ celebration includes restaurant specials, a Grilled Cheese Throwdown and a food cart rally, plus Saturday’s Harvest Ball and Market to Market ride.local-matters.org

italian Festivaloct. 7-9italian VillageFoodie fest! Don’t miss Carfagna’s spaghetti dinner.columbusitalianfestival.com

Dine originals Weeknov. 7-13Special dining menus at nearly 50 independent, locally owned restaurants.dineoriginalscolumbus.com

CraVe CalenDarFall 2011

1500 Pinnacle Club Drive | Grove City | 614.539.0397 | cimisbistro.com

Located Just 10 Minutes from Downtown Columbus.

Celebrate Summer with Cimi’s Sangria

� Fabulous View and Garden Setting

� Delicious American Bistro Cuisine

� Outdoor Wood-Fired Oven

� Patio Bar

�Terrace & Patio Seating

� Live Music Thursdays & Saturdays

Don’t let summer slip away without sipping a Sangria on the patio at Cimi’s Bistro. With

weekly chef specials featuring fresh, local ingredients and the ultimate garden setting,

Cimi’s Bistro is your “must visit” patio this summer. Weekend reservations recommended.

Sangria pitcher $22

Sangria by the glass $6

fooddown to earth

Commonwealth Sandwich Bar has made a name for itself with sandwiches piled high with thick-cut, house-cured meats. So if anyone could make a vegetarian sandwich feel, well, meaty, it’s these guys.

Their new seasonal creation Into the Woods ($8.50) combines a tangle of seared wild mushrooms with caramel-ized onions and a potent black pepper tomato jam. Some gooey goat’s cheese fondue melds everything together on a crusty, warm French baguette from Eleni-Christina.

When they’re available, shaved black truffles are an extra few (dozen) dollars. Oh, yes, they’re worth it.

food

Commonwealth sandwiCh bar1437 n. high St., campuS 614-429-3195commonwealthsandwichbar.com

into the woods

Story by Shelley mannphoto by will Shill ing

When I was four, my dad and I lived off of Dublin-Granville

Road in the apartments be-hind Otani and close to what used to be the Elephant Bar (and is now, like most interest-ing Columbus landmarks, a Walgreens).

In 30 years, the North Side has seen more changes than I can count. It started early. One of the first losses was a buffet in the Columbus Square shopping center, forever locked in my mind as “Smorgasboard” because that’s how my dad once described it to me.

Not long after, the Big Bear shut its doors, as did our Zan-tigo, a Mexican chain beloved for their addictive chilitos. No matter what my dad said, even five-year-old (wailing) me knew the truth: Taco Bell was not as good as Zantigo.

As an adult, I can see that even though many chains cleared out, the area is bet-ter for it—restaurants and markets run by owners from all over the world fill the void. One of them is Mi Li Cafe,

nestled in Columbus Square.I’m not alone in my love for

this brightly colored Viet-namese restaurant. It gets constant foot traffic from regu-lars who generally order the restaurant’s specialties: pho tai (a noodle soup) and banh mi thit nuong (a sandwich that marries Vietnamese flavors with the French standbys of mayonnaise and baguette).

I first encountered Mi Li through a friend who dragged me on a summer-long explo-ration of the city’s best phos. The Vietnamese wonder soup is a comfort food (perfect for both colds and the effects of over-indulgence) that isn’t completely terrible for you.

Pho gets its distinctive, deep flavor from stock slow-simmered with toasted spices, charred onion and ginger and—sorry, vegetarians—mar-row from beef bones. Bowls are filled with rice noodles, and pho becomes an interac-tive experience when diners customize their soup with the accompanying limes, green onions, thinly sliced white on-ions, jalapenos, bean sprouts and bitter greens or basil. Sri-racha and hoisin, for heat and sweetness, sit on every table.

When assembled, this choose-your-own-adventure dish celebrates opposites in texture and temperature: as the cool crunch of bean sprouts hit the hot and steamy broth, magic happens.

I love the pho, but Mi Li’s banh mi is my favorite find, especially on hot days. Grilled

pork, paté, pickled carrots, cilantro, jalapenos and cu-cumber mingle together on a freshly baked baguette coated with mayonnaise. (I’m a sucker for mayo on hot bread.)

Crispy on the outside and warm on the inside, the bread is what makes this sandwich. Their secret: a standing order from the bakery at the Ander-sons General Store.

On a recent visit, my fortune cookie yielded the words, “Sometimes even love shows a rerun.” I have no idea what

this means. But if we’re talking about 161—a love for the 2011 incarnation along with fond memories of what it used to be—I’m in.

Jill Moorhead blogs about food at itinerantfoodies.com


guide strip search

Mi Li cafe5858 eMporiuM sq., North side614-899-9202

Hours: 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-saturday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. sunday

Columbus Square’s Mi Li Cafe specializes in Vietnamese pho and banh mistory by J iLL Moorhead l photos by Jodi MiLLer

coMfort food

pho gets its distinctive, deep flavor from stock slow-simmered with toasted spices, charred onion, ginger and marrow

F a l l 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l 3 3

intercontinental restaurantcuisine: NigerianVibe: No worries if you’re new to West african cuisine. these folks will walk you through the options and make you feel at home.Must-try dishes: Jollof rice, coconut rice, plantains and spinach

Nazareth restaurant and deli cuisine: Middle easternVibe: an upbeat sandwich shop in a refurbished chili’s. the owner will (jokingly) threaten you with a bat if you suggest you don’t like the food.Must-try dishes: hummus, hand-cut french fries, gyros

salaam Market & bakerycuisine: Middle easternVibe: all are welcome in this grocery with a full-service bakery tucked in the back.Must-try dishes: pies (the chicken is incredibly good). also check out the unique offerings in the produce department, like tart green cherries and green almonds.

yuen’s restaurantcuisine: Vietnamese, chinese & thaiVibe: a clean, comfortable and spacious dining room makes this a perfect ethnic spot to take the family.Must-try dishes: rice vermicelli noodles with grilled pork, spring rolls, french coffee with condensed milk

the lineup More 161 & Morse road eats

Clockwise from top: Pho with rare beef, Vietnamese iced coffee, Pho up close, Banh Mi with grilled pork and Mi Li serves Pho

Spagio 1295 grandview ave. 614-486-1114spagio.com

As restaurant trends come and go, the decades-old Spagio continues zooming along, absorbing new food fashions with gusto and verve. I’d expect nothing less from pioneering Columbus chef Hubert Seifert.

See, long ago, the German-born Seifert actually helped bring Euro-style haute cuisine to Central Ohio with his little Gourmet Market eatery. Now Chef Hubert oversees a bright and bubbly Spagio complex with a great


A pleasurably walk-able neighbor-hood home to all walks of people,

Grandview cheerfully blends old-time, small-town charm with contemporary big-city sophistication. And Grand-view’s destination-worthy restaurant scene reflects that all-American mix.

Because whether it’s a homey joint with the best donuts ever (DK Diner) or a wholly refurbished golden oldie (Grandview Cafe—since 1925!) or a handsome, upscale and modern food palace that prides itself on sourcing (Third and Hollywood), Grandview’s eateries can easily please a wide range of appetites and pocketbooks. Here are a few more popular and alluring Grandview restaurants.

grandview cheerfully blends old-time, small-town charm with contemporary big-city sophistication

guide NeighborhoodS

mix it upWhether you’re hungry for fun casual food or something more sumptuous, Grandview’s got you coveredStory by g.a. beNtoNphotoS by Jodi miller

Seafood Stew at Spagio; opposite, Spagio dining room

Worthington/Campus View7475 Vantage Dr.At Rt. 23 & I-270

614-781-0751

Polaris/Westerville2127 Polaris Parkway.Across from Germain Ampitheatre

in the Polaris Neighborhood Center614-547-0246

www.elacapulcorestaurant.com • *Open 7 Days a Week

Patio Now Open!Every Monday - Friday 11 - 2pm

$7.49 Lunch SpecialsEvery Monday - Thursday 4 - 7pm

$2.50 All Mexican Beers

Full Service Bar

Patio Now Open!Every Monday - Friday 11 - 2pm

$7.49 Lunch SpecialsEvery Monday - Thursday 4 - 7pm

$2.50 All Mexican Beers

Full Service Bar

Grandview Ave.

Northwest Blvd.

W. 5th Ave.

Westwood Ave.

W. 3rd Ave.

N. Star Ave.

g r a N d v i e w

Spagio

Vino Vino

Red Door Tavern

Paul’s Fifth Avenue

Trattoria Roma

Mazah

viNo viNo 1371 grandview ave. 614-481-8200vinovinocolumbus.com

Suave and sexy Brazilian tunes usually set the zesty mood in the urbane and casual Vino Vino. As its twice-as-nice name suggests, the wine flows abundantly here and several flights enable the slurping of more than one grape at a time.

That same play-the-field

gameplan holds for the smallish plates of food. Some favorites are the Parmesan Peppercorn salad, Fish Taco and Asparagus Risotto Tower.

As a bonus, Vino Vino’s literally joined at the hip to Figlio, so you can get a two-fer by also tucking into Figlio’s nifty Cal-Ital pizzas and pastas.

mazah 1439 grandview ave. 614-488-3633mazah-eatery.com

Painted in alternating shades of merry yellow, green and orange, friendly little Mazah has been embraced as the must-visit newest player in the Grandview Avenue casual-restaurant scene.

But Mazah—which makes the best Middle Eastern food

wine shop and patio. Try the Asian-inflected

wood-fired duck pizza, up-scale Mama Seifert’s Meatloaf, a bouillabaisse-y Seafood Stew and a locally sourced rolled Italian Porchetta roast partnered with homemade gnocchi and spring peas.


in this area—has roots reach-ing back to Sindbad’s, Co-lumbus’ Ur-house of hummus. Luckily for customers, Mazah’s family recipes taste better than ever, and from phenom-enal falafel to killer kebabs, you cannot go wrong.

Hint: Mazah specializes in tapas-y mezze-style dining, so ordering from the combo-packed “Mazah samplers” menu section facilitates copi-ous and glorious grazing.

trattoria roma 1447 grandview ave. 614-488-2104trattoria-roma.com

Tasteful ambient ap-pointments and pleasure-center-grabbing dishes define Trattoria Roma. Vibe-wise, a wooden plank floor capped by neatly white-trimmed burgundy walls form a hand-some backdrop to framed black-and-white sketches of famous Italian landmarks. Jazz giants are piped into the small dining room and the cozy little bar is decorated in Sinatra.

When it’s time to mangia mangia, saucy delights take center stage. Try the shroomy, rich and intense Polenta e Gorgonzola ai Funghi; a spicy tomato sauce, pasta and seafood bonanza (Linguine alla Pescatore); and a lush and skillful stuffed chicken dish (Pollo Trattoria Roma).

paul’S FiFth aveNue 1565 w. Fifth ave.614-481-8848paulsonline.com

Paul’s Fifth Avenue has a dual personality that straddles both older and newer Grand-view. By daytime, its coffee-shoppy interior is filled with breakfasting regulars slam-ming back eggy dishes sided with Paul’s famous morning

potatoes (either crispy “Joes” or jazzed-up “Callahans”) plus lunching locals loving diner classics like meatloaf.

Evening hours bring about a more sophisticated Italian menu. Best enjoyed on Paul’s patio with a bottle of vino, the nightly meal can begin with a grilled polenta and portobello appetizer before moving on to, say, whole wheat linguine with a light and lively funghi pomodoro sauce.

red door taverN 1736 w. Fifth ave.614-488-5433reddoortavern.com

Open since 1964, yes, here the door is really red and the school is really old. But don’t think this vintage working man’s tavern/family-friendly restaurant is a relic.

Currently in Jimmy V’s clan of eateries, the lively Door has managed to retain its classic, down-to-earth character while also attracting out-on-the-towners seeking pubby dining and a partying patio.

Whether eating outside, at the sporty bar or in one of several rooms hung with farm implements, this is the place for massive grill-seared burgers and the beloved Twisted Pelican (grilled deli turkey and fixins on a pretzel roll).

Food critic G.A. Benton blogs at columbusalive.com

guide NeighborhoodS

the lively red door tavern has managed to retain its classic, down-to-earth character while also attracting out-on-the-towners

Italian Porchetta Roast; below, Duck Pizza, both at Spagio

Food Wine Friends••

www.luce-enoteca.com

3 and 4 Happy Hour

$3 Select wines by the glass, Sangria and Stella draft beer.

Join us for Wine Down Wednesdaysfor live jazz and ALL bottled wines reduced to state minimum pricing

• No Cover •

Wine Down Wednesdays

Spaghetti with 2 stuffed meatballsAll pizza’s $9.95 (including house

salad)

Sunday Family Night

$4 Select bar bitesTue. - Fri. • 4 - 7 PM

3499 Market St. Powell, OH 43065 740-881-4600


Last summer’s street food sensation was a Japanese crepe cart called Foodie Cart. Husband and wife Kenny Kim and Misako Ohba delighted regulars with an ever-

changing menu of crepes with intriguing pan-Asian filling combinations—think miso pork belly and bulgogi cheesesteak.

Once word got out, people happily stood in line, sometimes up to an hour, to get one of these quirky crepes.

The creative culinary duo is back with a fixed lo-cation and different take on Japanese street food, primarily serving takoyaki—savory little pancake balls made in a special dimpled griddle.

Story by bEtHIA Woolf PHotoS by jodI mIllEr

gEt frESHThe fun folks behind Foodie Cart crepes are back with new Japanese street treats—and their signature sense of humor

guide StrEEt EAtS


Where to find it: If you’ve been to the original Mikey’s Late Night Slice, you’ve been to Fresh Street.The little hut sits in the Short North parking lot two doors south of Bodega. Fresh Street serves during the day before Mikey’s takes over for the night shift. There’s outdoor seat-ing plus a few tables inside the adjacent 83 Gallery space.

When to go: Anytime you’re in the mood for a savory snack. Takoyaki is tra-ditionally a snack food, but the changing daily specials usually make for a more substantial lunch.

What to get: Try the signature ta-koyaki, ping-pong-ball-sized dumplings (eight per order) you eat with a pair of toothpicks.

The dumplings are traditionally filled with chunks of boiled octopus (tako). If that’s not your thing, alter-nate fillings include Japanese sausage and a vegetarian option, usually sweet corn or cabbage.

The takoyaki balls are topped with drizzles of takoyaki sauce and Kewpie mayonnaise. They’re finished off with bonito flakes so delicate they dance in the steam.

These things smell so fantastic as they’re cooking, it’s hard to

resist popping them straight from the grill into your mouth. But try—they’re steaming hot inside.

don’t forget to try: Whatever’s on special. Kenny and Misako change the specials daily based on whim, but you can count on something creative and delicious.

A few recent spe-cials: okonomiyaki pancakes topped with pork belly, mozzarella and kimchi; cold soba noodles with fresh wasabi; pork katsu pressed sandwiches.

For dessert, there’s housemade gelatin in flavors like grapefruit, lemon and fresh berry.

Follow Fresh Street on Twitter or Facebook to see what they’re cooking up—it’s worth it just for videos of their ingenious Dance 4 a Discount Mondays. Bethia Woolf, owner of the tour company Columbus Food Adventures, blogs at streeteatscolumbus.com

From left, Takoyaki, Fresh Street’s shack next to 83 Gallery, Bacon Avocado Okonomiyaki

frESH StrEEt tAkoyAkI1038 N. High St., Short North614-531-0023Hours: 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. monday and Wednesday-friday Noon-6 p.m. Saturday-Sunday(Closed tuesday)

facebook.com/foodie.cart @freshstreet

Gyrosaregreat,butyoucangetthemfrom

everyno-namestreet-meatslingerinthecity.

AtLavash,it’sworthmovingpastthemeat-on-a-spitstandardsandintomoread-venturousterritory.Inotherwords,skiptheshawarmasandwichesinfavorofthekabobs,thechopsandthespecials.

ThisbrightandcolorfulClintonvillespotdetailsthedailyspecialsonachalk-boardmenu,andthey’realwaystempt-ing—wholeredsnap-perfriedtogoldenbrown,chickentagine,lemoncauliflowerstew,lambmoussaka—andreliablygreat.

Ontheregular

menu,theShishKabobwithlamb($12)isastandoutfavorite.Cubesoftender,juicylambaregrilledonaskewerwithchunksofredandgreenbellpepperandonionsuntileverything’sniceandcharred.

Asanentree,it’sservedwithsaffronrice,asmalllettucesaladandsomeofLavash’sfantasticallydensepitabread.It’salsoavail-ableinsandwichform,wrappedineitherapitaorlavash(MiddleEastern-styleflatbread),forfivebuckscheaper.

Ontheside,goforthefalafel($3).Anappetizerordercomeswithsixlittlepattiesofgroundchickpeas,onionsandspicesfriedtocrunchybrown,plusatastytahini-yogurt

dippingsauce.Lavash’stakeonthisGreekstandardislightontheparsley,sothefalafelaregoldeninsideratherthangreen—agoodthinginmybook.

Orderingisdoneatthecounter,andbecausethereisn’t

awholelotofspacetostandandwait,it’shelpfultocallaheadwithyourcarryoutor-ders.Justdon’texpecttowalkinandfindyourorderbaggedup—La-vashputsthefinishingtouchesondishesoncethecustomerarrives.


on the go mediterranean

Lavash Cafe2985 n. HigH St., CLintonviLLe614-263-7777lavashcafe.com

Lavash Cafe goes beyond the gyro to offer standout homestyle Mediterranean dishes

kabob king

Story by SHeLLey mannPHoto by WiLL SHiLL ing

Lamb Shish Kabob and falafel at Lavash

View our entire menu at

www.jliurestaurant.comFull catering and banquet facility available

See our website for more details

Sunday BrunchDublin and Worthington

11am - 2pm

6880 N. High St.Worthington, OH

614-888-1818

50 West Bridge St.Dublin, OH

614-718-1818

P R I VA T E E V E N T S A N D H O L I D AY PA R T I E S

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F O R U P T O 2 5 0 G U E S T S O R I N

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restaurant & bar

Something Great For Everyone


Cuban Roasted ChickenLouie’s Grill Hilliard & Upper Arlington h

This’ll have the bold flavors of the sun-splashed Caribbean cha-cha-cha-ing across your tongue. Expect seductively bronzed and crispy skin draped in wildly tangy, falling-apart, vinegar-drenched onions and fried sweet plantains, plus homey black beans and rice.

Roasted ChickenRadhuniCampus i

Here’s a bird that’ll butter you up and light your fire. Expertly roasted and coated in a thick, rich and explosive curry sauce, it’s sweet from tons of long-cooked onions and aromatic from ginger and cardamom. Beautiful basmati is provided for ecstatic sauce wrangling.

3

1

These high-flying roasted chicken preparations elevate a simple dish into a special dinner

BiRd of pRAise

stoRy By G.A. Benton

flavors ReqUiRed eAtinG

photo: eRiC WAGneR

pan-Roasted Chicken BreastCiboUpper Arlington g

Cibo’s partially deboned, Ohio-raised free-range chicken is classically elegant. Its golden brown crust is a crackly entryway to lusciously spork-tender meat. Pretty platemates are a lush risotto with cheese, carrots and peas plus a silky and profoundly chickeny herb jus.

2

Half pollofito’s Campus h

Fito’s Peruvian-style chicken shop is like an indoor cookout. Cumin-, garlic- and black pepper-seasoned poultry gets a rotisserie-blistering over smoke-scenting charcoal that produces succulent meat. Bonus: It’s even better dipped into Fito’s yellow pepper aioli.

4photo: dAVid sMitH

photo: jodi MiLLeR

photo: jodi MiLLeR

Happy Hour Mon - Thurs

53 Parsons AveCorner of E. Broad & ParsonsColumbus 43215 614-246-9662

• Drink Specials• $5 Appetizers• $10 Dinners• $20 3-Course Meals

• 12 Wine Selections by-the-glass• Over 60 bottles available• 20 Wines priced at State Minimum

Visit website for weekend specialsblackcreekbistro.com

Fresh - Local - Sustainable

Wine

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Cloak & DaggerPurchaseYour Gift

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s u m m e r 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s D I s H . C O m l 0 0 0

flavors what’s hot

Fresh lavender from Freckle Bear Lavender Farm, Urbana; frecklebear.com

Lavender’s pretty purple color and floral fragrance make it a

natural ingredient for soaps and sachets.

But this flower can be used in cooking, too—local chefs have incorporated its slightly sweet, herbal flavors into desserts for years. And we’ve been spotting fresh and dried lavender more and more these days in sa-vory sauces and as a garnish on entree dishes.

At the Refectory, Chef Richard Blondin has worked the ingredient into his dishes in various ways. For example, he drizzles his buzzworthy Alpaca Terrine, a chilled pate studded with pistachios and black olives that’s a must-try for adven-turous foodies, in a lavender vinaigrette.

Meanwhile, Chef Alana Shock at Alana’s occasional-ly cooks up a daily special of lavender-buttermilk roasted Ohio chicken, served with mushroom creme fraiche.

You’ll find the herb in cocktails, too, like the Vio-lette at Mouton. This purple Kool-Aid-hued concoction is made with sparkling Cremant, Creme de Violette and housemade lavender bitters.

And, of course, adding lavender is still an easy way to give sweets some panache. Like Pattycake Bakery’s pretty lemon cup-cakes topped with lavender icing, or the Lavender & Brandy Pound Cake, a sea-sonal treat served at the Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls that’s made decadent with a dark chocolate ganache topping.

As a garnish or an ingredient, lavender adds an alluring floral note to dishes and drinksstory By sheLLey Mann l Photo By wiLL shiLLing

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4210 Stelzer Rd., Columbus, OH 43219Call for Reservations

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When it comes to soft-serve frozen

yogurt, you have two choices: sweet or tart.

Sure, there’s an ever growing number of frozen yogurt shops in the Columbus area—and some of them offer a dozen flavors or

more, not to mention scores of toppings and sauces. But you can’t embark on those choices until you pick sweet or tart.

Me? I’m a tart girl. Original tart with fresh red raspberries, to be exact. I decided this after eating at every yo-gurt place around town I could find (though I’m sure more have opened since then).

For tart, I go to Ya-goot at Easton. There’s not much seating in this mod little lime-and-sil-ver-hued shop, but the patio out front offers plenty of places to sit during warm weather.

Yagoot is sleek, but

it’s not a franchise. It’s owned by the Busken family of Cincinnati’s Busken Bakery—mak-ing it Ohio-local, if not Columbus-local.

Yagoot offers just four flavors a day. Original and straw-berry are always on the menu, while the other flavors rotate. But all are tart. And by tart, I mean the pleasant sourness of good-quality yogurt with just enough sweetness to make it dreamy.

The staff swirls the yogurt for customers (three sizes are avail-able starting at $2.50) then adds toppings, from raspberries to

Fruity Pebbles. The secret to Ya-

goot’s yogurt?“Most frozen yogurt

is nonfat,” said Brian Busken, co-founder of Yagoot. “Ours is 99 percent fat free. We feel like that 1 percent gives us that nice creaminess.”

In the sweet realm, there’s Cuzzins in the Shops on Lane Avenue in Upper Arlington. Customers sit on bubblegum-pink chairs at white tables inside, or out on the open-air patio.

Cuzzins is a locally owned shop founded by Jeanie Patrick and John Falor, who are

cousins (hence the name). The Upper Ar-lington store has been open a year and has been so successful the cousins are embarking on two new locations: Hilliard and Polaris.

What you’ll get at Cuzzins is an array of self-serve yogurt in a variety of mostly sweet flavors, from peanut butter to cookies-and-cream.

And like other shops, Cuzzins lets customers dress up their yogurt with any number of toppings (fresh fruit, gummy candies, M&Ms) in a weigh-and-pay system, at $7.04 a pound.

An explosion of Columbus-area frozen yogurt shops means more choices than ever

sweet or tart?story by robin davis l Photos by jodi miller

Cuzzins1629 w. lane ave., UPPer arlington614-488-8248uasupersite.com/cuzzins

yagoot 3998 gramerCy st., easton 614-532-6565yagootyogurt.com

flavors Chill oUt

Yagoot; Cuzzins, left and center

groovy spoon3665 n. high st., Clintonville groovyspoon.comPriCe: 44 cents an ounce

what yoU get: In addition to delicious sweet flavors such as chocolate-mint and traditional tart flavors like peach-mango, customers can opt for made-to-order crepes and waffles topped with fruit, sauce and whipped cream (though I put spoonfuls of the tart yogurt on instead).

josie’s Frozen yogurt121 westerville Plaza, westerville8657 sancus blvd., Polarisjosiesyogurt.comPriCe: 36 cents an ounce

what yoU get: In addition to traditional sweet flavors (chocolate, vanilla), Josie’s also offers a handful of no-sugar-added Stevia-sweetened varieties including espresso. For tart, the honeydew is particularly refreshing. Bonus: Josie’s offers three sizes of cups, making portion control more manageable.

orange leaf1374 grandview ave., grandview3130 Kingsdale ave., Upper arlington10503 blacklick-eastern rd., Pickerington750 n. state st., westervilleorangeleafyogurt.comPriCe: 44 cents an ounce

what yoU get: These stores are very attractive, with lime green and orange-tiled

walls. Choose from traditional flavors (tart or strawberry) to more decadent offerings, including a confetti cake that tastes just like Funfetti cake mix.

menchie’s 7545 sawmill rd., dublinmenchies.comPriCe: 44 cents an ounce

what yoU get: Self-service yogurt in mostly sweet flavors, including milk chocolate, root beer and lavender. The fluorescent green shop has lots of indoor seating and a handful of outdoor seats.

red mango1866 n. high st., Campusredmangousa.comPriCe: $2.95 to $4.95 (75 cents for 1 topping or $1.25 for 2 toppings or more)

what yoU get: Red Mango’s our only full-service tart yogurt place besides Yagoot. It offers four flavors including original and pomegranate in three sizes, plus parfaits ($4.50) and smoothies ($4.95 to $5.45).

spoon me4691 morse rd., gahannaspoonme.comPriCe: $7.20 a pound

what yoU get: This place has a cute slogan: If you love me, Spoon Me. It’s also the only place I visited selling underwear imprinted with its store name. As for yogurt, they specialize in both tart (grapefruit, blueberry, lime) and sweet (Butterfinger, Root Beer Float), with lots of toppings.

iCy treatsyagoot and Cuzzins are just the start when it comes to frozen yogurt in town. here’s a look at the rest of our fro-yo scene.


Orange Leaf

Orange Leaf

Cuzzins


chefs at home

Luce’s new chef shares his go-to ingredients

Story by robin DaviSPhotoS by JoDi miller

Plain & SimPle

luce enoteca3499 market St., Powell740-881-4600; luce-enoteca.com

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. tuesday-thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday

When it comes to home cooking, Phil Gulis keeps it simple.

“I don’t cook much at home,” said the executive chef at Powell’s Luce Enoteca.

Luce specializes in Ital-ian fare—luxurious pastas, flatbreads and pizzas, and boasts an interesting wine list. Gulis took over the kitchen in March, after working under longtime chef Alex Rodriguez for about six months.

He lives with his girlfriend and her 4-year-old daughter, so the one meal they eat con-sistently at home is breakfast: eggs of all kinds, oatmeal and cream of wheat.

The rest of Gulis’ pantry is stocked with shelf-stable items, things that won’t go bad and can be thrown together simply when he does have time to make dinner.

Robin Davis is the Columbus Dispatch’s Food Editor. To subscribe to her weekly newsletter, visit dispatchkitchen.com

1Dried oregano“Half of my family is Greek. I put it in almost everything,” Gulis said. “And it doesn’t go bad as quickly as fresh.”

2extra-virgin olive oil“When I need a fat, I go for this,” said Gulis. The chef isn’t married to a particular brand, but buys whichever one is priced best.

3Pasta and noodles“I usually just make it plain, maybe with olive oil, Parmesan and frozen peas.”

4eggsGulis cooks plain scrambled eggs for his girlfriend’s daughter, then will throw in whatever else might be in his refrigerator: vegetables or even leftovers from dinner the night before.

5Dry vermouth“I use that instead of white wine for cooking, to avoid opening a bottle of wine just for cooking.”

Happy Hour at the Bar

Gluten Free Options | Healthy | Organic | Fresh | Chemical Free

Call for reservations:614.431.14111611 Polaris PkwyColumbus, OH 43240

Call for reservations:614.431.14111611 Polaris PkwyColumbus, OH 43240

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what’S alwayS in your kitchen?

PaSta with tuna & eggSGulis says, “When I was single, 90 percent of the time this was my dinner.”

Ingredients:lSaltl�4 ounces dry pasta l1 T extra-virgin olive oill�6 oz can tuna, drainedlGround pepperl1 t dried oreganol1 or 2 eggs, beatenlGrated Parmesan

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in the pasta.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high. Add tuna. Cook until warmed and crispy. Season with salt, pepper and oregano.

When pasta is al dente, drain and add to skillet. Re-duce heat to low. Add egg. Toss and stir gently until egg is cooked to desired degree of doneness. Stir in Parmesan, serve.

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS!1961 - present.Enjoy Our Gourmet PizzasPesto • Barbeque • White Sauce

Sauces and dough made fresh daily.We offer a full line of Italian Dinners.

Open 7 days a week747 E. Lincoln Ave. Columbus, Ohio 43229

p. 614-885-3121 • f. 614-885-3633www.pizzahousecolumbus.com

One delicious evening.Many flavorful futures.

You are cordially invited to “Taste the Future”An evening of magnificent food from more than 50 of the area’sbrightest chefs—benefitting future ones through scholarshipsand special projects at Columbus State Community College.

Tuesday, September 13, 20115:30-9:00 pm Columbus State’s Downtown Campus

Individual tickets are $100 each. Purchase online today atwww.tastethefuture.com, or call 614-287-2436

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Line cookat work

A dAy in the life of A MArtini line cookStory by chriS DeViLLePhotoS by JoDi MiLLer

A line cook, as Peter Chapman tells it, is like a hygienist in a dentist’s office. The chef gets all the credit, but the line cook

does all the work.Chapman, the executive chef at

Martini Modern Italian, would know. He worked his way up through the ranks of Columbus kitchen culture to become Martini’s top dog. Now he has a full staff of cooks to do his bidding, and he’s not shy about singing their praises.

One of those cooks is Rob Jones, 25, a Gahanna native who just wrapped up culinary school at Columbus State. At one time Jones was pursuing a

marketing degree while working various restaurant jobs on the side. He changed course when he realized cooking was becoming more than a hobby.

“It’s been a passion of mine all my life, so it’s like, why not?” Jones said. “I don’t care about money. I want to do something where I like going to work every day and love every aspect of it instead of going into work and hating it.”

Crave followed Jones through his work day, scrambling to keep up as he and the rest of the kitchen staff juggled dozens of orders at once to keep hungry customers happy. And trust us—the man loves his job.

into the fireinto the fire


Martini Modern italian445 n. high St., Short north614-224-8259MartiniMoDernitaLian.coM


Line cookat work

Smoke breakWhen Jones worked at Marcella’s at Polaris, he could slip out the back door for a few puffs of smoke whenever he wanted. at Martini, he has to maneuver through narrow hallways and descend a flight of stairs to get outside, so this pre-shift cigarette will be his last for many hours.

getting readyJones ties on his apron, grabs his knives (he uses his own utensils at work) and stocks up on towels (a lightweight obsession of his). he also sets aside his cell phone. one thing he’s learned from his years in the kitchen is it’s only a distraction to have that thing bouncing and buzzing in his pocket.

Fuel upbefore his shift, Jones fills up on piccata-style chicken with broccoli substituted for capers. he’ll need his strength—the restaurant has 100 reservations (“100 on resos,” he says, in food service slang), and that’s not even accounting for walk-ins.

Closed MondaysOpen Tuesday – Saturday 11:30am – 9:00pm

(Sundays open until 8:30pm)Daily Lunch and Dinner time bu�ets

[email protected]

North of Bethel Rd. from Micro Center in Olentangy Square


Line cookat worknightly specialafter some slicing, tugging and scraping, Jones presents a frenched rack of lamb—that is, with the meat, fat and sinew cleaned off the bones. Lamb will be tonight’s featured entree. Frenching lamb racks is a tedious process, but Jones takes 90 minutes to do what used to take two hours.

gossip timeJones pals around with fellow line cook oscar Monjaras, his partner at the saute station. a topic of discussion among the line cooks tonight: the finer points of katy Perry’s “e.t.” video.

getting briefedJones provides the servers with details on the lamb feature, which will sell for $42 tonight, so they can pass the info along to customers. the staff depends on business from the nearby greater columbus convention center, and tonight they debate whether the quilting or the needle arts convention is in town. and then whether quilting and needle arts are the same thing.

WE’RE ON THE MAPTHE NEW STATE-BY-STATE GUIDE TO 100 GREAT BURGER JOINTS IN USA FEATURES US!

82 Granville Street, Gahanna, OH 43230 614-476-9017 • Mon-Sat 11am-10:30pm • Sun Noon-8:30pm

Floor-to-ceiling photographs show the brave souls who have ingested the burger that has made the Gahanna famous-the Double Beanie Burger.

The regular Beanie Burger itself is a monster, with its patty of fresh ground beef weighing in at about half a pound. The Double gives you two half-pound patties, a photo on the wall, and a free T-shirt for your efforts.

The burger is also piled high with lettuce, tomato, grilled onions, bacon, cheese, and a hearty scoop of homemade coleslaw. The burger is a sloppy, tasty mess that is barely contained by its toasted, soft kaiser roll.


ready to servethese orders are “in the window”—on the counter, ready to be carried to their tables. if a dish sits longer than three or four minutes, it’s considered “dead” and the cooks have to make it over again, much to customers’ chagrin.

Small platethis scallop appetizer, intricately arranged by Jones, will soon be returned when the customer decides to double the order and make it an entree instead.

customer careafter melting down dark chocolate and dripping it into a squeeze bottle, Jones spells out a friendly message for customers celebrating their 25th anniversary. “this is really nice, robbie,” chapman chimes in.

on the lineJones joins Monjaras at the proteins-focused saute station, one of four posts on Martini’s line. the other three stations are pasta, middle (which handles hot appetizers and helps with proteins) and pantry (which prepares salads and cold appetizers). the cooks float between stations to help out when one gets particularly busy.

Line cookat work

Monte CarloItalian Kitchen

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*Dine in only*Only one meal per customer

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Line cookat work

Perfect platingorders make their way from the servers to the kitchen by way of receipt-like paper strips. chapman rattles off a long list of dishes, and his kitchen comrades instantly lock them into memory.

a big part of a line cook’s job is to send the food out looking exquisite. tonight Jones is in charge of putting the finishing touches on the entrees. he does well enough that chapman doesn’t have to make any adjustments besides wiping down the perimeter of each platter.

Friends & familyWhen a former employee of Martini shows up to dine, it’s time to supreme (pronounced “su-prem”) some fruit for a complimentary amuse (pronounced “ah-mew-zay”). the secret ingredient? Pea chutes.

New Catering Menu • Wood Burning Fireplace on the Patio• Live Music Every Tuesday & Sunday • Gluten Free Pizza

15 E. Olentangy St, Powell, Ohio 43065 • 614-602-8060 • localrootspowell.com

As the owner of Local Roots, I believe everything is better when it comes from the farm. Our goal is to serve our customers with an abundance of locally sourced goods. We are excited to be an Ohio Proud Affi liate serving All Natural Ohio Amish Chicken, Ohio Pork, and Certifi ed Angus Beef.Our family farm, not far from downtown Powell, provides us with fresh produce for the restaurant. When not from the farm the produce is always purchased from local vendors. We have a small herb garden on the patio that provides us with most of the herbs we use.

In order to utilize the freshest seasonal products we change the menu often, and are always striving to increase the amount of local goods we use at Local Roots. Of the 24 beers on tap, 6 are from Ohio; we also pour 3 wines from local wineries.I would like to take a moment to thank you for allowing us to be a part of your day and serve you.

–– Jessi Iams

LOCAL ROOTS

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French Toast

Signature Benedict

Tuscan Sun OmeletteCome and seewhat all the

Buzz is about!HoneyBaked, the makers of the World’sBest Ham are now offering a unique and

truly memorable breakfast and lunchdining experience. Here’s what our

guests are telling us:

“Loved the fresh whipped creamand real maple syrup!”

“The Honey Spice Bacon is AMAZING”

“The Colorado omelet was the best I’veever had in a restaurant”

“The attention to detail and willingnessto go the extra mile was wonderful!”

“My new favorite breakfast spot.”

Open Mon.-Sat., 7am-3pm, Sun., 8am-3pm6630 Sawmill Road in the Northwest Square

Shopping Plaza

See for yourself!Stop in or visit sweetclove.com

or call (614) 764-1717.

F a l l 2 0 1 1 l C o l u m b u s c r a v e . c O M l 6 5

entree

selected by the crave editorial board: G.a. benton, alive food critic l robin davis, dispatch Food editor brian lindamood, director of niche Publications l Katie WolFe lloyd, Publisher l shelley mann, editor l Will shillinG, creative director

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6 6 l C o l u m b u s c r a v e . c O M l F a l l 2 0 1 1

rigsby’s Kitchen698 n. high st., short north614-461-7888rigsbyskitchen.comHours: 1 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. monday-thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. Friday, 12-3 p.m. and 5:30-11 p.m. saturday

1Amaz-

ing, isn’t it, how Rigsby’s has been

making it look easy for 25 years. In the decades since the Short North trailblazer opened, dozens of other, more exciting restaurants have come and gone. But Rigsby’s hasn’t flinched. This place has managed to define fine dining in Columbus: a refined

but relaxed ambiance, fantastic food without much fuss.

The neighborhood that’s now home to the city’s swankiest restau-rants wasn’t so desir-able when Rigsby’s Cui-sine Volatile opened its doors in 1986. But Kent and Tasi Rigsby’s restaurant, centered on food inspired by sum-mers spent in Greece and Italy, drew people to the arts district.

It’s never stopped

quietly evolving and improving, and that’s why it gets our top honors.

I first ate at Rigsby’s on a date as a college student. We ended up there because some-body told me it was the nicest restaurant in Columbus. We were flat broke, and so I skipped appetizers and dessert and ordered the cheapest thing on the menu. And yet, I still think back fondly

Yes, this is onlY Crave’s seCond issue, but our writers have an awful lot of experienCe review-ing restaurants in Columbus—not to mention eating at them. so Yeah, we’re going there. we’re deClaring the 10 best restaurants in Columbus.

as we narrowed down our choices, our editorial board con-sidered atmosphere, general vibe, wine lists, cocktail menus, attentive and knowledgeable service.

but first and foremost was the food. we wanted menus that are not only filled with delicious dishes, but that are creative and always changing, that incorporate local and seasonal in-gredients, and that are infused with the chef’s personality.

when we sat down to hash out this list, i was expecting a knock-down, drag-out fight. but we came to a consensus pretty quickly. these are our very favorite places to eat in the city, the places that make us most proud to call Columbus home.

so let us tell you about our top 10 restaurants, and why we’re so crazy about them. —shelleY mann

story by shelley mann l Photos by Will shill inG

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Wild Halibut at Rigsby’s; left, owner

Kent Rigsby

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on that first Rigsby’s meal—butternut squash ravioli, a simple dish made special with high quality, locally sourced ingredients.

I’ve been back many times since, and every time I find something new to fall in love with. The bread, baked right down the street at Rigsby’s own Eleni-Christina bakery. The cocktails, shaken with care behind that stunner of a backlit bar. The artwork, oversized pieces that feel right at home on towering exposed-brick walls.

And so many dishes. Deviled eggs with truffle oil, an unbeliev-ably indulgent twist on a suburban staple. Roasted beets with skorthalia, an addictive Greek garlicky potato dip. The most amaz-ing gnocchi you’ll ever taste, tender potato pillows tossed in a rich Bolognese. Apple tart tartin, a sweet little dessert incorporating caramelized Lynd’s Fruit Farm apples set off by a cinnamon-caramel sauce.

Here’s to 25 years of doing it right. Let’s hope for 25 more.

i’ve been back many times since, and every time i find something new to fall in love with.

Chef Forbes Rigsby, son of Kent and Tasi, at work

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G. michael’s bistro & bar595 s. third st., German village614-464-0575gmichaelsbistro.comHours: 5-10 p.m. sunday-thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-saturday

The Chilled Cucumber-Buttermilk Soup is transcen-

dent. Call it the Official Flavor of Summer in Columbus—the crisp and cool taste of local produce tingles on the tongue, and the creamy finish is as soothing as a lazy sum-mer afternoon on the patio.

Oh, and it’s topped with a dollop of Watershed Gin

whipped cream. Yeah, you read that right: Watershed Gin whipped cream.

The soup may be one little thing on a menu full of bold flavors, but that’s the point: G. Michael’s does all the little things right.

Executive chef David Tetzloff keeps the menu moving through the seasons, using local ingredients whenever possible in the frequently

changing lineup. The constant is the creativity Tetzloff brings to his unique combination of Midwestern and Lowcountry influences. (We should all be grateful that the chef returned from culinary school in South Carolina with a taste for pork in all its indulgent forms.)

His whimsy was on full display in a dish I enjoyed recently, part of the Duo of Fowl:

Buffalo-style quail with Maytag-celery root slaw. With a knowing wink to the sports-bar favorite, and fine preparation of the delicate bird, it was as fun to eat as it was to order.

Tetzloff’s innovative touches have been a G. Michael’s hallmark for more than a decade. That longevity says a lot about the restaurant’s excellence and its beloved place in German Village.

Regulars gather around the long wooden bar in the cozy front room, while diners in the bistro-like dining room celebrate special occasions—or any occasion at all.

It’s not easy to become an institution in a 200-year-old neighborhood, but this restaurant is as much a part of the landscape as the brick sidewalks leading down Third Street to Schiller Park.

story by brian l indamoodPhotos by jodi miller

Scallops at G. Michael’s; right, executive chef David Tetzloff

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Kihachi2667 Federated blvd., dublin614-764-9040Hours: 6-10 p.m. monday-saturday

As a vet-eran pro-fessional eater, I’m rarely

overwhelmed by every single bite of any dinner from start to finish. But that hap-pens nearly every time I dine at Kihachi. When lining up adjectives to capture that food, the candidates pushing forward are: elegant, spare, thrilling and poetic.

Yes, Kihachi’s very special. In fact, I bet if you questioned the other chefs on this list about their favorite culinary magicians, most would reverently mention master Mike Kimura.

Thus his dazzling dishes transcend lesser features like a shrug-inducing wine list (beer and sake work great anyway). As for ambi-ance, though Kihachi

features nifty tatami-matted chambers, this strip-mall temple of no-training-wheels Japanese cuisine might best be described as a blank canvas for Kimura’s artistry.

Said artistry is catalogued on two menus, one containing udon, teriyaki, tempura and such and another with more rarefied, tapas-type preparations. I recommend latching onto the latter, where huge pleasures arise from small plates.

Recent knockouts include: a basket of crunchy, deep-fried lotus root wedges crammed with a de-lightful shrimp filling—water-derived gifts with celestial textures and flavors. Stunning, lime-scented sea bream su-shi patterned, wallpa-per-style, with sancho leaves, served with an

explosive grapefruity sauce (Kihachi’s not a sushi restaurant, but you’ll find none finer in Ohio). Insanely intense Berkshire pork cheeks presented with bare vegetal accou-trements—a porcine haiku.

Kihachi’s my pre-ferred special occasion restaurant, and I highly recommend splurging on its mindblowing omakase (multi-course magnificence). Insider tip: from October into November, Kihachi’s matsutaki mushroom-packed omakases are especially majestic.

Kihachi’s not a sushi restaurant, but you’ll find none finer in ohio

story by G.a. benton l Photos by Will shill inG

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This page, clockwise from top left, lotus root, shrimp & shiso

leaves; sea bream head; ayu; sashimi Kihachi. Opposite,

Kihachi executive chef and owner Ryuji Mike Kimura

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dragonfly neo-v247 King ave., victorian village614-298-9986neo-vevents.comHours: 5-10 p.m. tuesday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. saturday

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story by robin davis l Photos by jodi miller

I don’t go to Dragonfly just because it serves vegan food; I go

because it’s good food that happens to be vegan.

The unassuming restaurant sits on a bare-bones strip of King Avenue near Vic-torian Village. Inside, pressed-tin ceilings and fresh flowers are nice touches in an oth-erwise simple space.

In comparison with

the sleek and simple surroundings, the plates coming out of the kitchen are intricate works of art. When it comes to the food, it’s truly Chef Magdiale Wolmark’s vision. His frequently changing menu is filled with quirky veggie-based inventions, includ-ing some dishes that replicate ones made with meat.

He uses hon-shemeji mushrooms to make faux calamari, coat-ing them in a light batter and frying them till crisp. The tender nuggets sit on a bed of well-seasoned tomato sauce, and somehow even have a taste of the sea.

Customers don’t mind waiting the 25 minutes it takes for the mushroom risotto—it’s made from scratch to order—because

it’s something of a masterpiece. Studded with vegetables and infused with a deep, earthy flavor, it’s purely satisfying.

The same is true of the mac ’n’ cheese, a dish the restaurant can’t take off the menu. Unsurprisingly, the best part of this comfort-food classic isn’t the orzo tossed with a full-flavored vegan cheese sauce. It’s the vegetables—sauteed collard greens and crisp breaded mush-room—that are really the stars.

Dragonfly specializes in fun mixed drinks, too. The Jezebel is a flirty, colorful concoc-tion of orange vodka, cranberry and Gold-schlager. And for those not imbibing, a glass of Raenfall—a fruity laven-der punch—is light and refreshing.

customers don’t mind waiting 25 minutes for the made-from-scratch mushroom risotto

Polenta Lasagna with local arugula; left,

chef/owner Magdiale Wolmark

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basi italia811 highland st., victorian village614-294-7383basi-italia.comHours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. monday-thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-saturday

Eat a meal at this tiny gem hidden deep in

Victorian Village and you come away feeling like part of the family.

For one thing, the Basi space is actu-ally an old house, so it really does feel like you’re eating dinner at the home of some old friends. Namely, husband-and-wife own-ers Johnny Dornback and Trish Gentile. And if you sit inside, you’ll be close enough to your fellow diners that you’ll quickly become old friends.

But it’s more than that. It’s plates of food that feel like they came from a home kitchen rather than a gourmet restaurant—albeit a home kitchen with an

outstanding cook. It’s a waitstaff filled with people who have obvi-ously become part of the extended Basi fam-ily—they’re having fun even as they hustle and bustle and do what it takes to keep a restau-rant running efficiently.

Johnny is the chef behind Basi’s Italian-inspired menu. It changes seasonally but is typically heavy on unfussy pastas and flavorful seafood. Trish is in charge of the wine—and she has a big hand in planning the menu, too.

The Basi menu is short and sweet. On the Primo side, season-al salads join favorite appetizers like the Zuc-chini Pronto—a present of sorts featuring a pile of roasted zucchini and toasted almonds

wrapped in thin sheets of pecorino—and the magical Parmesan Creme Brulee, a cheese custard with a crispy, caramelized crust.

The main courses change up more frequently, plus there are always tantalizing specials detailed on chalkboard menus.

This summer’s offer-ings included a delight-ful Veal Ravioli entree, with velvety ground veal tucked inside thick pockets of pasta that resembled mini pope hats. They sat upright with some charred cherry tomatoes and wilted arugula in a pool of thick, fragrant parmesan broth.

What a welcome and unexpected treat in a world of red-sauced, rubbery-noodled Ital-ian food.

story by shelley mann l Photos by Will shill inG

the staff is having fun even as they hustle and bustle and do what it takes to keep a restaurant running efficiently

5


Veal Ravioli; opposite, Basi owners Trish Gentile and Johnny Dornback

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sage american bistro2653 n. high st., old north columbus 614-267-7243sageamericanbistro.comHours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. tuesday-saturday, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. sunday

Sage may be the single best illus-tration of all that’s right

with the local restau-rant scene. Everything I love about dining in this city is served up inside the bistro’s exposed brick walls with a personality that is uniquely, deliciously Columbus.

It starts with indie-minded chef/owner Bill Glover, a rising star who can claim his place beside the other young artists and entrepreneurs in the city’s creative community.

Glover’s small, care-fully curated menu of local and seasonal fla-vors elevates American

entrees—Bistro Steak, Braised Pork Cheeks, Grilled Salmon—with spot-on execution and tastebud-twisting ad-ditions like fried chive dumplings, truffle-cauliflower puree or shitake-leek bread pudding.

Glover even makes his own ketchups, including a rich, smoky chipotle and a sweet, tangy blackberry. Those sauces take cen-ter stage during lunch, which is a fun (and affordable) way to taste the chef’s creativity in sandwich form.

Sunday brunch is just as rewarding, trans-forming morning favor-ites into indulgent and unexpected delights (Sage Benedict swaps

out traditional ham for duck confit).

Sage’s intimate atmosphere is perfect for Columbus. It’s a neighborhoody place in a city that loves its neighborhoods, casually embracing its eclectic North Campus surroundings with a welcoming smile.

My favorite perch is at the small bar, which offers friendly conversation with the bartender, a peek into the buzzing open kitchen and a full view of the narrow dining room flanked by local artwork.

The stylish setting would seem at home in any big city, but it wouldn’t be the same anywhere but here.

story by brian l indamood l Photos by jodi miller

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Chef Bill Glover at work; opposite,

Chicken and Oxtail

0 0 0 l C o l u m b u s c r a v e . c O M l F a l l 2 0 1 1

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Pear Tart Frangipane; opposite, chef Richard Blondin


Alpaca and antelope. Sweet-breads lasagna

and seafood strudel. Stuffy French ste-

reotypes be damned, I had one of the most exciting meals of my life at the Refectory.

Sitting on the more relaxed bistro side of the restaurant helped. My pal and I might have been the youngest people dining that night, but we were far from the most boisterous.

The Refectory has all the upscale touches you expect from what Columbus’ finest din-ing experience—white tablecloths, fine china, tuxedoed waiters brushing away bread crumbs, water glasses never less than 80 per-cent full and, of course, flawlessly executed dishes.

Richard Blondin is

the Lyon-born, Paul Bocuse-trained chef behind the delectable food, while Kamal Boulos, the owner, is responsible for establishing Refec-tory as the city’s special occasion destination. The setting certainly can’t be beat. Housed in a converted church, Refectory has ex-posed brick walls, neat stained-glass windows and steep beamed ceilings.

Sitting on the bistro side doesn’t mean you have to order from the prix-fixe bistro menu. That three-course dinner is a great deal, but if you want to splurge, look to the regular menu served in all the dining rooms.

We started with several small plates—the much-talked-about Alpaca Terrine, a bacon-wrapped pate incorporating pista-chios, black olives and

cranberries; a delight-ful Seafood Strudel made with big chunks of fresh shellfish; and the Sweetbread Lasa-gna, intensely flavored organ-meat nuggets nestled between thin layers of pasta.

My main was Texas Antelope medallions, brined in bourbon, encrusted with sage and bacon, then roasted until fork-tender. They were accompanied by some roasted asparagus spears, a dollop of mashed potatoes and honey-kissed jus.

And dessert was the jaw-droppingly stunning Pear Tart Frangipane, a sunburst of thinly sliced pears ringed in rays of vanilla-almond frangipane and raspberry sauce and topped with a small scoop of pistachio ice cream.

Every single bite that night was divine.

the refectory restaurant & bistro1092 bethel rd., northwest side614-451-9774therefectoryrestaurant.comHours: 5:30-9 p.m. monday-thursday, 5-9:30 p.m. Friday-saturday

story by shelley mann l Photos by jodi miller

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m at miranova2 miranova Pl., downtown614-629-0000matmiranova.comHours: 5-10 p.m. monday-thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-saturday

M can be whatev-er you want it to be.

Looking for a special occasion spot? With striking two-story ceil-ings hung with diapha-nous white curtains and simply stunning views of the Downtown

skyline, M is it. Want a sophisticated

cocktail lounge? That’s M too, with a dramati-cally blue-lit bar that has to be the prettiest in the city, manned by mixologist extraordi-naire Cris Dehlavi.

The cocktails alone are reason to visit. Take the Black Orchid. The

black raspberry vodka and St. Germain drink is garnished with an ac-tual orchid frozen into a ball of ice. The Mar-quee is just as pretty, a mix of citrus vodka and blood orange puree with a spritz of bitters forming the letter M on top.

Chef Jay Cotrell

story by robin davis l Photos by Will shill inG

Chef Jay Cotrell finishes the pork

chop entree

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Always Ser vingBreakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Not Your Regular Del i

We Cater Parties & Special Events!3296 N. High St. | 614-267-3354

Monday-Saturday 7:00am - 9pmSunday 7:30am - 8:00pm

Not valid with any other offer.One coupon per customer per visit. Expires: 10-31-11

10% OFFTotal Purchase

Not valid with any other offer.One coupon per customer per visit. Expires: 10-31-11

50% OFFBuy one Sushi Roll and

get one at 50% OFF

Make your own Salad Bar• 60 Item Salad Bar • Fresh Baked Bagels • Wraps & Sandwiches • Coffee/Tea • Homemade Soups • Sushi Fresh to Order • Chinese Food •

TOP NOTCH, HOUSE MADE,COMFORTABLE SETTING

Breakfast and lunch served all day.• Warm up with our new spring menu •

• Catering available •

Hours: Mon-Sat 7am-5pm, Sun 8am-5pm680 N. Pearl St., Columbus, OH

www.tasicafe.com

Recently featured in The New York Times.Special Entrées Daily

• Fresh Red Snapper

• Lemon Caulifl ower

• Stuffed Bell Pepper

• Lamb Mousaka

• Lamb Shanks

• Chicken Curry

• Spinach with Mushroom

• Butter Bean Stew

• Soups of the Day

• Fresh Coffee and Juices

Catering Available

Vegetarian and Gluten-Free Options

www.lavashcafe.com

614.263.7777

2985 N. High St. Clintonville, OH 43202

VOTED ONE OF THE BEST

MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANTS

2010 AND 2011 BY ALIVE!

Come check out our lamb chops

and jumbo tiger shrimp kabobs

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whips up food to please a variety of pal-ates. Kobe beef slider appetizers are a homey snack served with fries and spicy ketchup and aioli for dipping.

Diners looking for more celebratory fare can feast on seafood dishes with an Asian in-fluence. Poke—cubed raw tuna with bits of pineapple, peas and tiny taro root chips—is an appetizer that’s meant to be shared. A shrimp tempura dish comes with three fat shrimp, sweet po-tato slices and shitake mushroom caps, all coated in an ultra-crisp batter and served with a sweet-spicy chili sauce.

For entrees, listen to the specials. On a recent visit, I loved the seared Scottish salmon served over baby bok choy with a soy-butter sauce.

Don’t pass up des-sert, especially the Root Beer Float. This beaut combines root beer granita with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, all doused in root beer and served with warm chocolate chip cookies.

diners look-ing for more celebratory fare can feast on seafood dishes with an asian influence

Heirloom Tomato Salad at M

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captivating and unique tradition with contemporary stylebringing a new experience to columbus

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Visit Us Online @ citybbq.com

TWOArlington

614-538-8890

Westerville

614-823-8890

Gahanna

614-416-8890

Powell

614-224-8224

Polaris

614-573-8686

Newark740-281-1605

Reynoldsburg

614-755-8890

HandsNeeded

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alana’s Food & Wine2333 n. high st., north campus614-294-6783alanas.comHours: 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-thursday, 5 p.m.-close Friday-saturday

Alana’s name is literally bent into a

little fence that’s the entrance to her restaurant and party-time patio. This is certainly fitting,

considering Alana Shock’s personality is stamped all over her terrific place.

Alana’s taste shows up on her walls, which are awash in brash and humor-splashed local art. It’s in the music, which weaves a path

story by G.a. bentonPhotos by jodi miller

Owner and chef Alana Shock; right, Ohio Valley Tomato Stack with Crab

9

FOOD • DRINKS • COFFEE149 S. HIGH STREET in DOWNTOWN COLUMBUS • GERMAN VILLAGE • EASTON • SHORT NORTH • AIRPORT

NOW DOWNTOWNFind your MoJoe

410 E. Whittier St. • Columbus, OH 43206 • 614-443-2266

Follow the location of our Mobile Kitchen on Facebook and Twitterwww.skilletruf.com

Photo byEly Brothers

Rustic • Urban • Food“Seasonal Driven, Farm to Fork Comfort

Classics with an Urban Edge”

Keep Spooning

Spoon Me is delicious. Fat-free. And low in calories. It’s also packed with live active cultures, vitamins, minerals, calcium, and all

that other good stuff. (Both Mom and your digestive system would be proud.) And for you guilt-ridden types, there’s no artifi cial anything — fl avors, colors or

sweeteners. Plus zero table sugar. Zero fat. Zero guilt.

4691 Morse Rd., Gahanna 475-3200 • www.spoonme.com

Open Sun-Thur 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

Coming next

month toBexley

entree crave 10


from voodoo-soaked New Orleans (where Alana trained under Emeril Lagasse), to Piaf’s Paris, to a nutty place in America where someone dreamed up a zippy big band version of “Take Me Out to the Ballgame.”

And of course Alana’s touch is all over her menu, which she composes daily after shopping for

the freshest and best ingredients available. See, Alana’s been flying the eat-seasonal and go-local flags as long and as vehemently as any restaurant in Columbus.

Still, it’s her worldbeat creativity that most distinguishes her eatery. Here, handmade Thai curry pastes share menu space with Moroccan flavors, Colombian

arepas, zingy African piri-piri sauces and Indian spice-kissed Ohio-raised pork and steaks.

Vegetables are special too. They’re liable to refreshingly brighten an all-cold item menu served on a hot summer night, starring Alana’s famous locally grown tomato and peekytoe crab stack and a virtually fatless grilled tomatillo

gazpacho.And holy bacchus

if the giant globe-spanning wine list isn’t one of the best and best-priced ever printed in Ohio. Toss in creative cocktails concocted with local fruits and local hooches plus pretty housemade pastries and you’ll understand why every night could be Mardi Gras at Alana’s.

alana’s been flying the eat-seasonal and go-local flags as long as any restaurant in columbus

Chilled Cappellini with mussels, lump crab, shrimp, lobster and saffron aioli

1138 Bethel Rd. Columbus, OH 43220

www.sansubbq.com614.273.0188

Join us on

Enjoy Great TastingItalian Food!

Bring the whole gang or just afew friends and enjoy

traditional Italian food forlunch or dinner.

Our Incredible 15-Layer Lasagne


entree crave 10

Worthington inn649 high st., Worthington614-885-2600worthingtoninn.comHours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. monday-thursday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Friday-saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. sunday

Time curves in on itself at the Worthing-ton Inn.

Here amid quaint old paintings and elabo-rately carved wood-work, you step into the past to dine in the present.

Inside the delightfully preserved 19th-century country mansion, pink and tender spring lamb chops are lavished with a multi-culti artichoke and harissa ragu straddled by the yin and yang of a sriracha-based sauce and housemade tzatziki.

Or a Sunday-style chicken dinner is el-evated with succulently roasted, locally raised poultry graced by a

demi-like morel gravy (when in season).

If the Inn’s ingredi-ent-driven homemade cuisine seems to defy expectations of its museum-like 1800s setting, actually scratch cooking with local ingredients hearkens back to its Victorian-era roots.

Overseeing the everything-old-is-new-again deliciousness is the freshness-obsessed and versatile chef Thomas Smith, who uses (when available) herbs and vegetables grown in his own garden. Smith has also added several casual touches to loosen up this fine dining institu-tion—like grilling up a great, grass-fed, Ohio-

raised hamburger and starting a breakfast-all-day policy on summery Saturdays during the Worthington Farmer’s Market.

Weather permitting, the burger and break-fast are best enjoyed on the Inn’s scenic pa-tio with an icy cocktail or glass of wine from a fine vino list. Plan B is definitely lounging in the vintage barroom, where “cheffed-up” pubby munchies are offered and great (free!) jazz bands play on weekend evenings.

Ending with intensely fruity Inn-made sorbets or ice creams is a revivifying warm-weather finale and a fittingly contemporary old-fashioned treat.

story by G.a. benton l Photos by Will shill inG

10


Poke Tuna; opposite, from left, Wild Alaskan Halibut and executive chef Thomas Smith

entree 10 we love


Bono Pizza1717 Northwest Blvd., Grandview614-906-8646bonotogo.com

When you eat out a lot like we do, trying new restaurants and new dishes is part of the routine. But we have our reliable old favorites, too, places that pass our never-get-sick-of-it test no matter how many times we return. So, as we crafted The Crave 10, our list of the city’s very best dining destinations, the discussion kept returning to other places we love just because—because they’re comfortable, because they’re fun, because they make us feel full and happy. Just because we would eat at these restaurants for every meal if we could.

If you’re new to wonderful world of Bono, go with someone who’s

been before. It’s the epitome of an insider-y place. My first time, I mistakenly entered through the kitchen—and ducked out before realizing that’s the way most regulars come in anyway. Then I had to

duck out again to find an ATM after realizing it’s cash-only.

But one bite of their amazing, wood-fired-in-front-of-you pizza, and it didn’t matter. From the crispy charred crust to the fresh veggie toppings, it’s some of the best you’ll ever have. —Shelley Mann

Photo: will ShilliNG

Enjoy a romantic dinner and a birds-eye view of the Port Columbus runways on

our beautiful patios.

Salad Selections • Bread StationChef’s Selections • Seafood Table

Breakfast Station • Pasta & Fajita StationCarving Station • Dessert Station

Cappuccino & Juice Station

5030 Sawyer Road • 614-237-8887www.94thaero.com

94th AEROSQUADRON

Station to StationServing from 10:00am - 2:30pm

SPECTACULAR

SUNDAYBRUNCH

www.cucostaqueria.com 2162 W. Henderson Rd. • 614.538.8701

Join us on

entree 10 we love


Gallo’s Kitchen & Bar2820 Nottingham Rd., Upper Arlington614-754-8176 l gallosfoodgroup.com

The good-timing music at Gallo’s (it’s like the

soundtracks of “Big Night” and “Treme” on shuffle) clue you to the bold flavors emanating from its overachieving kitchen. In this fun, dressed-up sporty establishment with nice wine deals, authentic Italian dishes

harmoniously coexist with zesty Cajun and Creole preparations. Some favorites: killer Sea-Salt-Brined Chicken Wings (in mustardy Creole sauce), homemade sausages and meatballs, an authentic Bolognese (Pasta Russo), and a spicy and bountiful bouillabaisse (Seafood Creole). —G.A. Benton

indochine Cafe561 S. hamilton Rd., whitehall614-231-7357

The smiles and potent Southeast Asian flavors

are all genuine at Indochine. Here, an infectiously upbeat husband-and-wife team make giggly small talk and serve up huge portions of Laotian, Vietnamese and Thai cuisines—

along with a nice selection of beers from those countries. That’s why this humble but comfy mom-n-popper is constantly filled with regulars digging some of the best pho and banh mi in town, plus tricked-out noodle dishes and spicy salads. —G.A. Benton

Knead505 N. high St., Short North614-228-6323 l kneadonhigh.com

The Mother-clucker: A sandwich like that could

get a restaurant onto a list like this single-handedly. Supremely addictive, it’s a crispy buttermilk fried chicken breast topped with strips of house-cured bacon, smoky roasted poblanos, Amish jack

cheese and a drizzle of honey. I’m so smitten I rarely waver from that order, but whenever I do, I’m equally as impressed. Chef/owner Rick Lopez is a committed locavore, and it shows in each one of his Ohio-ingredient-driven dishes. —Shelley Mann

Photo: jodi milleR


Photo: jodi milleR

Join Peter and Laurie for dinner tonight in Arlington or Grandview!

Live music Wednesday, Friday, andSaturday nights.

HoursLunch Mon-Sat 11am-3pm

Dinner Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pmFri-Sat 5:30pm -11pm

Monday - Friday, 7am - 4pm • Saturday and Sunday closed49 North High St. • Columbus, OH 43215 • (614) 221-8311

Come & Enjoy The Best Venezuelan Food

at Casa SazónPabellón Venezolano,

Arepas* and theAuthentic Cachapas*!

*Gluten free

Cachapas

E Broad St.

N. H

igh

St.

Gay St.

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Join us on

Latin Flavor!Latin Flavor!

entree 10 we love


latitude 4150 N. Third St., downtown614-233-7541 l latitude41restaurant.com

Located in the opulent Renaissance Downtown,

Latitude 41 is a rarity: the hotel restaurant loved by serious lo-cal chowhounds. At Latitude, the mood is

casual (jeans are fine), the look is dramatic (theatrical red curtains, a stunning light-and-dark patterned floor) and Chef David Mac-Lennan’s organic and local-ingredient-lean-ing food is replete with

world flavors and witty takes on old favorites. Try the Gyro flatbread, Lobster “Mac and Cheese,” Pear Salad (with pumpkin seed brittle) and scratch-made S’mores. —G.A. Benton

The Rossi895 N. high St., Short North614-299-2810 l rossibarandkitchen.com

The Rossi has long been a favorite Short North

hangout—a stylish spot to grab a burger and a drink. But with new chef Andrew Smith in the kitchen and a new slate of bartenders working magic behind the bar, the Rossi is poised to become something great.

Smith’s witty ap-proach to food is

evident in his Pork & Beans entree—huge white corona beans topped with a brined, bone-in pork chop and some green apple slaw.

A constantly evolving drinks menu highlights locally sourced liquors and beers, including Watershed Gin, Oyo Vodka, Brothers Drake Mead and bottles from Rockmill Brewery.

Yep, we’re keeping an eye on this one.

—Shelley Mann


Photo: jodi milleR

Try our fantastic and tasty VEGETARIAN SANDWICHES that even carnivores love.

We also have delicious salads and REAL FRUIT SMOOTHIES for you to try... come and visit us today!

20 E Long St. Columbus, OH. 43215614.227.0070/www.sisenorlatinfusion.com

Find us on FACEBOOK

‘Roasted portabella with red onions and Chimichurri sandwich with provolone cheese and mayo

entree 10 we love


Skillet410 e. whittier St., German village614-443-2266skilletruf.com

The Crave staff engaged in some serious debate about

whether to include Skillet on our top 10 list. My vote: yes. I’ve never had a meal here that didn’t blow me away—high praise from a girl who eats out all the freaking time. So no, there’s no tablecloths, no alcohol, and the silverware sits in cups on the table. You won’t care once you’re feasting on Chef Kevin Caskey’s truffled grilled cheese, mac and pulled pork and stinky cheese omelets. —Shelley Mann

Tasi680 N. Pearl St., Short North614-222-0788tasicafe.com

I’d go to Tasi just for the coffee, but I’d never make it out without a

plate of the banana-topped French toast, one of many breakfasts served all day. Later, I’d opt for one of the stellar sandwiches. Or I’d dig into a bowl of creamy mac and cheese with Black Forest ham. Or maybe some of the city’s best roast chicken, served with a lemon-thyme reduction. You get the idea. —Robin Davis

Photo: jodi milleR


MON-FRI 10AM-6PM • SAT 10AM-5PM • SUN 12PM-4PM

4223

1 0 0 l C o l u m b u s c r a v e . c O M l F a l l 2 0 1 1

entree 10 we love

Third and hollywood1433 w. Third Ave., Grandview 614-488-0303 l thirdandhollywood.com

Third and Hollywood is the best combination

of comfort and elegance I’ve ever enjoyed, and I’ve suffered through a lot of failed attempts at the mythical “upscale casual” hybrid. The menu of American favorites—roasted chicken, grilled fish,

steaks and chops—may not seem ambitious, but the food is excellently executed, and made with seasonal and local ingredients. And the service is always impeccable. No matter how often I visit—and I visit often—I always wanna go back for more. —Brian Lindamood

The Top Steak house2891 e. main St., Bexley 614-231-8238 l thetopsteakhouse.com

You don’t visit The Top for dinner. You visit for the

night. I start at the bar for a well-shaken clas-sic, and after a leisurely dinner I grab a Top

Cappuccino and sit at the piano to sing along to some Sinatra favor-ites. The Top hasn’t changed much since it opened in 1955 (the prices, alas, have been adjusted to contem-

porary standards). The menu definitely hasn’t changed—the buttery, char-broiled steaks are just as indulgent as your cool grandpa remembers. —Brian Lindamood

Photos: will ShilliNG

Photo: jodi milleR

Any fresher,you’d have to

catch it yourself.

GR A N DV I E W 614.291.3474CRO S S WO O D S 614.410.3474

W W W.CO L U M B U SF I S HMA R K E T .C O M

Hungry Planet: Local Food | Global View, opens August 20

Host an event on the Scotts Miracle-Gro Community Garden CampusFood education classes for all ages

Enjoy seasonal fare at the Conservatory’s Garden Café

© P

eter

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1777 East Broad StreetColumbus, Ohio 43203

614.645.8733 www.fpconservatory.org

Presented by: Supported by:

drink

drink

Big AppleConsider this hot apple cider’s chic cocktail counterpart. Tart pressed apple juice gets a fire-in-your-belly kick from Prairie Organic Vodka, plus some sweet-and-sour notes from agave nectar and lemon juice. Stir frequently with the cinnamon stick garnish to thoroughly infuse with spiciness. Sip on this stunner at J. Gilbert’s cozy bar—exposed brick walls and wrought-iron chandeliers complement a massive vintage Hoster Brewing Co. mirror.

J. Gilbert’s 1 e. cAmpus view Blvd., worthington 614-840-9090jgilberts.com

harvest martini

story By shelley mAnn l photo By will shill ing

1 0 6 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l F a l l 2 0 1 1

Camelot Cellars has occupied its prime Short North spot for years. And yet

the winery has felt hidden in plain sight, its worn sign and clustered grape logo lost between the upbeat elegance of its chic neighbors. But a transformation has occurred, virtually overnight.

The sign now bears an impressionistic scarlet C, like a swirl of cabernet, and through the windows you can see framed racks with over 700 bottles of neatly labeled wine.

A sleek, weathered-wood bar invites you in. Warm lights hang from knotted rope chandeliers over a communal table. Candles flicker in the

windows. The scent of fresh wood fills the space—I could smell the newness even as I sipped my New Zealand pinot noir, with its notes of soft fruits and strawberry.

Camelot’s new owner, Janine Aquino, hopes this dra-matic renovation will expose the spot’s true identity. “This is a real winery,” she said. “People don’t realize that.”

Indeed, there’s a wine-making lab in the center of Camelot, framed by a huge window that looks onto steel tanks and glass carboys.

Camelot has long been in the business of helping people create custom wines for weddings, anniversaries

and other events. The lab also turns out bottles of lo-cally crafted wine, sold by the bottle and by the glass.

This locally made wine isn’t Ohio wine, Aquino is quick to point out.

“While there are some good Ohio wines, we don’t produce Ohio wine,” she said. “We source juices and skins from all the over the world and then produce it locally.”

Aquino is a wine profes-sional with a brisk and no-nonsense manner that gives way to an all-encompassing smile as she talks about be-ing raised in New York’s wine business. “All I’ve done is be around wineries my whole

drink Wine

Camelot Cellars has reinvented itself as an urban winery in the heart of the cityStory by faith durand l PhotoS by Jodi Miller

hidden geM

Follow us on

www.tasteohiowines.comwww.tasteohiowines.mobi

life,” she said.She was working in Co-

lumbus as a wine consultant before she bought Camelot Cellars last winter from its previous owner, a Canadian company.

“I really liked that it’s in the Short North,” Aquino said. “It has the ability to be a great wine bar.”

In this Aquino hopes to emulate wineries from all over the world that invite guests in to see how they make their wine, and to taste it right where it’s made.

But Aquino knew the exist-ing space didn’t have the right character for the Short North.

She engaged Scott Han-ratty, then of Collier West, and Kathleen Day of Katalina’s Cafe Corner to help her real-ize a new vision, taking cues from French and Tuscan winer-ies but with clean urban lines.

After a flurry of paper sketches, custom furniture and vintage items carefully placed, Camelot Cellars feels new and old at the same time, a chic bar with a patina of precisely calculated vintage touches.

Despite this transformation,

Camelot does have its chal-lenges. Aquino is still working towards a food license, so wine must be sipped alone, for now. Also, the bar only sells and serves its own wines, which can feel strange to a wine-lover accustomed to a more diverse array of labels.

And yet wine produced on-site means a stunningly large array of wines by the glass—a rarity for such a small wine bar.

Camelot produces over 70 types of wine—from Napa cabernet to German gewurz-traminer—and every one is available by the glass, with prices ranging from $5 to $7.

Aquino plans to introduce classes and tastings so people can learn what they enjoy. She will emphasize varietals—how do different chardonnays taste? A zinfandel?—and hopes her guests leave know-ing something new.

“I don’t like anything pomp-ous or pretentious,” she said. “I want this to be a welcoming place for people with no wine knowledge whatsoever.“

Faith Durand is the managing editor of thekitchn.com

Camelot Cellars958 n. high St., Short north614-441-8860camelotcellars.com

Hours: 3-10 p.m. tuesday-thursday, 2-11 p.m. friday, 12-11 p.m. Saturday

“the new Camelot is inviting, easy-going, relaxed.Stay as long as you want” –Janine aquino

drink Wine


The locavore movement has been quick and fierce in

the food world, and has even spread to the beer and liquor scenes. But when it comes to wine, bottles from closer to home aren’t always considered better—especially in states like Ohio, not exactly renowned for its wines.

About two-thirds of Ohio wineries, including local players Camelot Cellars and Wyandotte Winery, use grapes sourced from around the globe, said Christy Eckstein, ex-

ecutive director of the Ohio Grape Industries Committee.

An increasing number of Ohio wine makers, though, are growing their own. A vineyard expansion assistance program started by the Depart-ment of Agriculture two years ago has spurred about 50 new acres of grapes across the state, Eckstein explained.

Wine-loving lo-cavores should start seeing the fruits of that labor over the next few years, in the form of more and more Ohio-grown wines.

And better Ohio wines. Kinkead Ridge, a wine you’ll often spot in Central Ohio restaurants, has grown-in-Ohio syrahs and cabernet sauvignons that can hold their own against European counterparts.

“What I love about Kinkead Ridge in particular is they don’t attempt to dumb down their wines,” said Con-stance Begue, wine director at The Hills Market. “Their goal is to make premium wines in an area along the Ohio River that has a long wine grape growing history.”

Story by Shelley Mann & brit tany KreSS

ohio on the vineIncreasingly, the state’s wine makers are growing their own grapes

Kinkead ridge904 hamburg St., ripley937-392-6077; kinkeadridge.com

the Winery: nancy bentley and ron barrett are the husband-and-wife team running this tiny winery in the southern part of the state. the Kinkead vineyard was planted in 1999, making it one of the newer in ohio. the grapes are exclusively european varietals, planted in clay and limestone-heavy soil similar to what’s found in France.

the Wine: Kinkead ridge’s dry red wines are beloved among local vinophiles—uncommon in a state famed for super-sweet ice wine. the spicy, full-bodied syrah, made with ohio-grown grapes, is a standout, and the fruitier cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc are also popular.

visit: the 132-acre winery is open occasionally throughout the year, tied to wine release dates in the fall and spring. a vineyard tour is offered annu-ally over labor Day Weekend, and a barrel tasting is held in october, giving fans a chance to weigh in on Kinkead’s newest offerings.

Photo: Will Shilling

At Vino 100, we not only track down great-tasting,artisan wines from all over the world, but wehelp you choose the exact right ones for yourtaste. Whether that’s a light, fruity white, a dry,heavy red, or something in between. Everyone’spalate is different. That’s why our approach is too.

Daily tasting • Wines by the glass • Special events

522 Polaris Parkway • At Cleveland Avenue614.895.VINO (8466) • www.vino100polaris.com

A wine store thatlearns your palate?

Service doesn’t getmuch more personal.

drink Wine


Wine & DineWant to taste what the Buckeye State’s wineries have to offer? Here’s a sampling of Columbus restaurants that serve Ohio wines.

black Creek bistro51 Parsons ave., olde towne east614-246-9662blackcreekbistro.comWines available: Ferrante, Firelands

DeepWood511 n. high St., Short north614-221-5602deepwoodrestaurant.comWines available: Firelands, Kinkead ridge, valley vineyards

la Chatelaine65 W. bridge St., Dublin1550 W. lane ave., Upper arlington627 high St., Worthingtonlachatelainebakery.comWines available: Ferrante

Mezzo130 Creekside Plaza, gahanna614-476-9900mezzoitalian.comWines available: Kinkead ridge

the refectory1092 bethel rd., northwest Side614-451-9774therefectoryrestaurant.comWines available: Debonne, Ferrante, Firelands

tutto vino7178 Muirfield Dr., Dublin614-799-9222tutto-vino.comWines available: Debonne, Ferrante

the Wine bistro1750 W. lane ave., Upper arlington8231 n. high St., Worthingtonwinebistrocolumbus.comWines available: Debonne, harpersfield, Kinkead ridge

Z Cucina1368 grandview ave., grandview614-486-9200zcucina.comWines available: Kinkead ridge

Fave red“The Kinkead Ridge Syrah 2008 is intense, with deep flavors of black fruit, hints of pepper and floral aro-mas. Kinkead is fiercely proud of the quality of their wines, which have won many awards.”

Constance Begue, wine director at The Hills Market

Fave White“Firelands’ Gewurztra-miner is slightly sweet but not cloyingly so. It’s the perfect accompani-ment to sitting on my porch with my husband and a tray of cheese and watching the neighborhood antics.” Mary Martineau, director of marketing at North Market

Firelands Winery917 bardshar rd., Sandusky419-625-5474; firelandswinery.com

the Winery: Firelands has been producing estate-bottled wines since 1880. the name refers to the winery’s original home, a region of north central ohio gifted to Connecticut citizens uprooted after their homes were burned down during the revolutionary War. Firelands grapes are grown on isle St. george, a mile-and-a-half-wide island sitting in the middle of lake erie.

the Wine: Firelands is best known for its whites, including the multi-award-winning sweet gewurztraminer and the buttery barrel Select Chardonnay. the winery does reds, too, like a dry, blackberry-heavy cabernet sauvignon.

visit: Winery tours are offered 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Saturday. the osteria, an italian bistro, serves a light food menu and boasts a self-serve dispensing system for wines by the glass. a tasting room and gift shop are open year-round.

Playing FavoritesOhio wine fans talk about the bottles they love

Photo: eriC Wagner

Wine selection at Tutto Vino

Photo: Will Shilling

116 E. Broadway, Granville, OH740-587-0249 • brewscafe.com

Located in Downtown Granville, Just 15 MInutes from the Outerbelt

Brews CafeThe

Gallery of Hops

FOOD, DRINK AND FUN IN A FRIENDLY TAVERN ATMOSPHERE!

630 N. High Street 614-223-9601 • www.bernardstavern.com Bernard’s Tavern

COME TRY THE BEST BURGER IN THE SHORT NORTH

Happy Hour Monday-Friday 4-8pm

drink Wine


Ferrante Winery5585 St. rte. 307, geneva440-466-8466 ferrantewinery.com

the Winery: the Ferrante name has appeared on bottles since the 1930s, when the current owner’s great grandparents started the winery in Cleveland. the 100-acre vineyard sits in ohio’s grand river valley near ashtabula, where the generally cool, lakeside climate favors white grapes like riesling and vidal blanc.

the Wine: among the 22 bottles currently available are three award-winners: grand river valley Pinot grigio, grand river valley Cabernet Franc and golden bunches riesling, which are also the winery’s most popular.

visit: the winery boasts an italian restaurant and is open year-round. visitors during different seasons will see its many sides.

“During the fall, the landscape becomes even more breath-taking,” said alyssa Sekerak, Ferrante’s marketing man-ager. “the smell of the harvest season is heavy in the air, and guests truly can smell the scent of rich grapes.”

in the winter, vidal blanc and cabernet franc grapes purpose-fully left out after harvest freeze on the vine and are pressed, producing the sugar-heavy juice used to make ice wine.

Wyandotte Winery4640 Wyandotte Dr., north Side614-476-3624wyandottewinery.com

the Winery: husband-and-wife team robin and valerie Coolidge have been running Wyandotte Winery near gahanna since 2007. With the help of their children and small staff, they make wine from grapes and juice trucked in from ohio and around the country.

the winery itself, housed in the 4,000-square-foot basement of the family’s home, is mostly a collection of plastic drums, steel tanks and bottling equipment. the winery also houses a tasting room and retail shop.

the Wine: Most are proprietary blends with unique names—the crowd favorite is the Sweet William, a blend of red and white grapes that’s semi-sweet and served chilled. rasp-berry, apple, pomegranate and other fruit wines make up a lot of the list of about 10 available bottles, and they’re made from 100 percent pure fruit.

Wyandotte wines are sold in Columbus at select Kroger stores and at graystone Cellars.

visit: in addition to happy hours five days a week, Wyan-dotte offers tours every Saturday afternoon and regular tasting events. valerie calls the winery a “well-hidden secret.”

“We have a huge [number of regulars],” she said, “and the winery business is a huge travel industry, so people find us on the internet, or their garmins bring them here.”

Photo: eriC Wagner

Photos: Will Shilling

FEATURING DAILY LUNCH &DINNER SPECIALS

SATURDAY & SUNDAYBRUNCHES 10-3



HAPPY HOURHAPPY HOURHAPPY HOURMONDAY-FRIDAY 3-7

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German Village197 Thurman Ave.614.444.EASY

Powell5 South Liberty St.614.888.EASY

Dozens of 100%Blue AgaveTequilas!

30 Brews on Tap!Half Off at Happy Hour!

Vegetarian andCarnivorousDelights!

1542 N. HIGH ST. | SOUTH CAMPUS GATEWAY | 614.586.4007 | MADMEX.COM

Cal-Mex!FreshFunky


WhenownerAmberHerron

namedherrestaurantfortheroadwhereshegrewupinCon-necticut,shehopedtoevokethecomfortofchildhood.Now,shesaid,visitingDeep-Woodis“aninvitation

tojoinusasarestau-rantfamilyathome.”

Andit’swrittenalloverExecutiveChefBrianPawlak’sambi-tiousmenu,whichisbothlocallysourcedandcomforting.

Justtrytoresisthisinvitationtoenjoya12-ounceOhioStripSteak($27):Theroast-

edbeefisservedwithhouse-madegnocchi,sauteedarugulaandadelightfulshort-ribmarmaladethat’smadewithatomatocom-poteandslow-cookedonions.

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menu PERFECT PAIRINGS

SToRy by bRIAN L INDAMooD l PhoToS by WILL ShILL ING

hoME, SWEET hoME

WhITE WINEVon Schleinitz Riesling ($6.50 glass, $24 bottle)

“Itreallybringsoutthesweetnessofthemarmalade,”HerronsaidoftheGermanriesling,“andtheacidityhelpscutsomeoftheinherentrich,fattinessofthesteak.”

bEERbrasserie des Rocs Triple Imperiale ($8)

SouschefColinVent,DeepWood’sresidentbeerguru,recommendedthisBelgiantripel.It’sadarkale,withcandied,driedfruitflavorsthatbringoutthedepthofthebeefandshortribmarmalade.

RED WINEDomaine du Dragon hautes Vignes ($6.50 glass, $24 bottle)

ThisredfromCôtesdeProvencehasnotesofdrygreenherbs,alittlelavender,somesmokeandleather,Herronsaid.“Thatdefinitelyspeakstothemeatandthepepperinessofthearugula.”

CoCkTAILCreek Codder ($9)

DeepWood’stwistontheCapeCodder—madewithCornerCreekbourbon,Chambord,cranberryandlime—isearthyandsweet.SaysHerron,“Thecombinationofthatcocktailandthestripsteakisjustallcomfort—youknow,rainy-dayhappiness.”

DeepWood511 N. high St., Short North 614-221-5602deepwoodrestaurant.com

New Location coming Soon! 5060 N. High St. Columbus, OH 43212

Enter to win $50 in Thurman Cash by casting your vote in our

“Taste-bud Flashback” Contestwhere you pick an item for our specials menu

@www.StaveOffTheCrave.com

(614) 443-1570183 Thurman Ave.

Columbus’sBest Restaurant

toStave Off The Crave

No one wants a watered-down whiskey.

You drink single-malt because you like the way it tastes, not because you want it to taste like Columbus tap water, right?

I mean, you’re looking for subtle hints of heather, peat and smoke in your cocktail glass—not the tang of chlorine and fluoride from the faucet. But that’s just what happens when slushy cubes from standard ice makers melt into your whiskey.

That’s why, during a recent visit to Barrel 44, I was delighted when I looked into my whiskey glass and found three giant ice cubes twinkling back at me.

These rocks are the real deal: About an inch cubed, cold and clear.

They’re big enough to outlast your drink without diluting it, yet they melt just enough to open up the flavors of the whiskey and add an easygoing chill.

Basically the big rocks make your whiskey taste better for longer.

“It’s part of the experience,” Barrel

44 owner Shawn Korn said of his commitment to proper ice. “You know, we put ‘Whiskey Bar’ in our name.”

On a busy night, the Short North bar goes through 300 of the oversized rocks. They’re made 15 cubes at a time in silicone trays using filtered water and stored in a dedicated freezer.

And as for the killjoy connoisseurs who claim you shouldn’t pour a single-malt over ice no matter how large the cubes are, Korn says there’s simply not a wrong way to enjoy whiskey.

“Drink it any way you like,” he said. “It’s booze. If you get snobby about whiskey, really I think it robs it of what it is.”

1 1 6 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l f a l l 2 0 1 1

advice whiskey

Barrel 44 whiskey Bar 1120 N. high st., short North 614-294-2277facebook.com/thebarrel44

story By BriAN L iNDAMooD l Photo By wiLL shiLL iNg

rocks stArBarrel 44 prevents whiskey meltdowns with long-lasting, oversized ice cubes

tAkiNg oDDs

there’s an old superstition among some bartenders: everything should come in odd numbers. so unless you request a drink with two ice cubes, you can count on a lucky number of rocks at Barrel 44.

“it’s either one cube or three,” owner shawn korn said. (he prefers one in his whiskey.) “same thing with fruit: we always give one olive or three.”

• Hotcakes• French Toast• Omelettes• Breakfast Sandwiches

• Burgers• Sandwiches• Salads

Any Night Out IsA Good Night

—Matt The Miller

Happy Hour MONDAY - FRIDAY IN THE BAR 4-7PM $5 MARTINIS | $3 WINE SELECTIONS | FLATBREAD + APPETIZER SPECIALS

Wine DownEVERY WEDNESDAY 11AM - 10PM STATE MINIMUM PRICING ON ALL BOTTLES OF WINE

Ladies’ Nite EVERY THURSDAY 5-9PM DRINK SPECIALS | 1/2 APPETIZERS | FOOD SPECIALS

Sunday Brunch Buffet “A MATT’S TRADITION” 10AM to 2:30PM — $14.95 Adults — $6.95 Kids 10 and Under

DUBLIN 6725 Avery-Muirfi eld Drive Dublin, OH | 614.799.9100

GRANDVIEW1400 Grandview Avenue | Columbus, OH | 614.754.1026

DUBLIN

Hh

w

th

s

1 1 8 l C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C O M l f a l l 2 0 1 1

l What do you like to eat at Club 185?

My personal favorite is the Beef on Weck. It’s a slow-cooked roast beef sandwich on a fresh kummelweck bun made for us by Resch’s Bakery. It’s only served on Thursdays.

l Where do you go for a quick dinner?

I really enjoy Vino Vino in Grandview. I typically grab a quick dinner at the bar. I’m obsessed with the crab and corn chowder.

l What about when you’re looking for something fancy?

Mitchell’s Ocean Club. They have two things I can’t go with-out getting: the truffle mac and cheese and the tuna tartar. There’s a pink grapefruit martini that has a fresh grapefruit wedge on the side and dry ice. A little over the top, but fun.

l What restaurant do you consider the city’s hidden gem?

Basi Italia. There’s an appetizer I crave from them: sauteed zucchini with lemon

scene Closing time

Club 185’s always busy manager shares her favorite places to eat and drink in Columbusstory by JaCkie mantey l Photo by Will shill ing

on the go

Being the leading lady of a chic and charming neighborhood bar isn’t as glamorous as it sounds.

On any given day, visitors to Club 185 might find manager Coty Hildebrand running to the breaker to figure out how to turn the air

conditioning back on, cleaning the gears of the bar’s popular vintage photo booth, or making sure the beer cheese soup is the right temperature.

“I often feel like my head is spinning,” said Hildebrand of the hectic manag-ing pace. “But I thrive on that.”

Indeed, this is only one of her jobs. Hildebrand also works at Coco Couture in Grandview, the clothing boutique she co-owns with her mother.

Hildebrand often cooks at home as respite. She loves shopping at North Market (“it’s like Disneyland”) and makes a good burger, with lots of Mexican-style fixings.

When she does go out to eat, here’s where you’ll find her.

short ordersWhere Coty hildebrand heads when she’s in the mood for something specific.

Pizza:“Margherita with prosciutto from The Rossi.”

brunch: “Tasi. To eat: black bean cake with poached eggs and jalapeno butter sauce. To drink: coffee and a mimosa.”

mexican:“Spicy barbacoa from El Vaquero. And, of course, queso dip.”

salad:“Baby bibb from Vino Vino Restaurant and Winebar.”

Coty hildebrandAge: 31

Daytime managerClub 185

185 e. livingston ave., german village

Hometown: Dresden, Ohio

“i finally got to stop by mouton–one of the best cocktails i’ve had in a long time.”

juice, almonds and shavings of pecorino on top. I usually will order a glass of prosecco. It’s such a romantic place. I love the ambiance.

l Where do you like to go out for drinks?

I finally got to stop by Mou-ton—one of the best cocktails I’ve had in a long time. I took my mom. She had the Mos-cow Mule and I had the French 75. Both were really light and refreshing and simple. This place will be my new favorite. I highly recommend it.

l What’s your dream Columbus meal?

I’d start with the tomato and jalapeno mussels from Vino Vino, and I couldn’t forget the crab and corn chowder. Then I would want to share the crostini with truffle honey and melted pecorino from Marcella’s.

And the last stop would be Pistacia Vera for their tasty coffee and a fresh citrus tart. I might as well get a chocolate croissant to go for breakfast the next morning. Yes, I love Pistacia Vera.

LUNCH BUFFET EVERYDAY

Dinner Á La Carte

HAPPY HOUR Monday - Thursday | 5 - 8pm

New India Restaurant New India Restaurant Offering the FINEST Indian Cuisine

5226 Bethel Center Mall Columbus, OH 43220

614.442.7705www.NewIndiaRestaurant.com

5226 Bethel Center Mall Columbus, OH 43220

614.442.7705www.NewIndiaRestaurant.com

OPEN7 DAYS

BUY ONE DINNER ENTREEGet 2nd ENTREE

$400 OFFCarry-Out Only

EXP 4/27/11

Carry-Out Only EXP 9/1/11

BUY ONE DINNER ENTREEGet 2nd ENTREE

$600 OFFCarry-Out Only

EXP 4/27/11Dine-In Only • With Coupon Only Not Valid With Any Other Offer Coupon Excludes BuffetEXP 9/1/11 • One Check Per Party

This month, Shelley and 10TV’s Karina Nova will be talking about the best restaurants in Columbus, plus Crave’s very favorite places to eat.

EVERY SATURDAY MORNING ON

Missed some info? Find all of this and more at ColumbusCrave.com.

Join Crave Editor Shelley Mann and some of

her closest foodie friends for their picks every Saturday

morning at 6 a.m. on 10TV

CrunCh timeBlack Creek’s pastry chef, Michelle Milhous Gar-land, created this abstract work of art especially for Crave. Caramelized apple slices are layered haphazardly with crunchy phyllo shards over a raspberry sugar custard. Dark chocolate shavings, toasted almonds and raspberry syrup drizzles add even more visual interest, and the end result is so pretty it’s hard to take that first bite.

Black creek Bistro51 Parsons ave., olde towne east 614-246-9662blackcreekbistro.com

the ultimate Caramel apple napoleon

story by shelley mannPhoto by Jodi miller

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