Coffee Table With Storage - April Wilkerson...The exact stain is Zar classic oil based “Moorish Teak”. I used one coat of stain and 3 coats of polycrylic. Apply the finish before

Coffee Table With Storage

Wilkerdos.com Copyright 2015

Material List Page 1

17-9/16"

25-1/2"

46"

I built this table specifically for my living room but keep in mind that the dimensions can easily be changed to fit your own particular space.

Note: I specifically chose to use torsion hinges, but they are a bit pricey and require a mortise to be cut in. A cheaper and easier option would be to use a piano hinge.

Cut List Page 2 The pieces colored the same are identical to each other.

6-3/8"

46”

39-1/2"

13-3/4"

44-1/2"

47-3/8"

24"

12-3/4"

22-1/2” 16"

26-7

/8"

3-1/

4"

2-3/

4"

2"

2"1"

1"

1"

Cut ListPage 3

44-1/2"

44-1/2"24"

16"

Note: Some hardware stores offer 2’ x 4’ sheets of plywood, so be sure to check because you might be able to save some money instead of buying another full sheet.

Build the Body Page 4

Attach the side pieces to the front and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes. The pocket holes are placed on the outside but will be covered up later with trim work.

Attach the bottom with glue and 1” screws. I recommend using a countersink bit to pre drill these holes so that the screw heads are slightly recessed in the material.

Apply edge banding to all top edges of the main body pieces. These edges will be seen when the lid is open and it is easiest to do this before the pieces are joined together.

Attach the Trim Page 5

I recommend adding edge banding before installing the trim.

If you’re adding trim to the inside of the compartments, then you will only need to edge band the top of the top rail, the right edge of the stile on the right and the left edge of the stile on the left. Everything else will be covered with trim.

However, if you’re not adding trim, these edges will be exposed so it is easier to add edge banding to all sides before attaching the trim.

Attach all of the trim using wood glue and 1” brad nails. Start by attaching the trim to the left and right sides, and then move to the front and back.

Build and Attach The Top

Page 6

Before attaching the top, use a router to cut three mortises for the hinges to rest in. This will prevent the back of the lid from being higher than the front when the lid is in the closed position. The mortise is 3/16” deep.

7-3/8”

22"

36-1/2”

3-3/8"

2-1/

4”

6”2"20-3/4"

35-1/8”

Cut in the mortises for the hinges on the back side of the box as shown. I used a 1/2” straight bit in my router with an edge guide. Remove 3/4” of material

7/8"

Add Molding Page 7This step is completely optional. If you want to leave the chest as-is then you are welcome to skip this step. However, if you want to make your table a little more fancy, you can add molding to the inside edges of all of the compartments as well as the top. If you decide against molding, the top will need edge banding to hid the plywood end grain.

I decided to make my own molding using my router table and solid oak boards. I used a Yonico brand - 13101 bit, but you can also buy molding right off the shelf.

1/4"

3/4"

If you want to change to a different molding profile or buy some off the shelf, I would recommend making sure that it is at least 3/4” wide so that it covers the entire inside edge of these compartments. Attach the molding with glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Hardware and Finish Page 8

For the finish I chose a dark color which matches some of the colors in my living room. The exact stain is Zar classic oil based “Moorish Teak”. I used one coat of stain and 3 coats of polycrylic. Apply the finish before installing the hardware.

After the finish is applied, install the hardware of your choice. Congratulations! Your coffee table with storage

is now complete!

Be sure to check out the build video on my YouTube channel to see an overview of the building process. Also check out my website at Wilkerdos.com for other projects/plans.

Thank you for supporting what I do! Be safe.