May 18, 2020 Coastal and Ocean Engineering John Fenton Institute of Hydraulic Engineering and Water Resources Management Vienna University of Technology, Karlsplatz 13/222, 1040 Vienna, Austria URL: http://johndfenton.com/ URL: mailto:[email protected] Abstract This course introduces maritime engineering, encompassing coastal and ocean engineering. It con- centrates on providing an understanding of the many processes at work when the tides, storms and waves interact with the natural and human environments. The course will be a mixture of descrip- tion and theory – it is hoped that by understanding the theory that the practice will be made all the easier. There is nothing quite so practical as a good theory. Table of Contents References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1. Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 1.1 Physical properties of seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2. Introduction to Oceanography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2.1 Ocean currents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 2.2 El Niño, La Niña, and the Southern Oscillation . . . . . . . . 10 2.3 Indian Ocean Dipole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 2.4 Continental shelf flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 3. Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.2 Tide generating forces and equilibrium theory . . . . . . . . 15 3.3 Dynamic model of tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 3.4 Harmonic analysis and prediction of tides . . . . . . . . . . 19 4. Surface gravity waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 4.1 The equations of fluid mechanics . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 4.2 Boundary conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 4.3 The general problem of wave motion . . . . . . . . . . . 29 4.4 Linear wave theory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 4.5 Shoaling, refraction and breaking . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 4.6 Diffraction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 4.7 Nonlinear wave theories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 1
Coastal and Ocean Engineering
May 16, 2023
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