Clothing Factory Sri Lanka Lowres

Clothing factory in Sri LankaMAS Intimates Thurulie

A fresh perspective By Peter Spirig, CEO Holcim Lanka

Sustainable construction

Quantum change and transferabilityEcological quality and energy conservationEthical standards and social equityEconomic performance and compatibilityContextual and aesthetic impact

MAS Intimates Thurulie

MAS Fabric Park and MAS IntimatesSite descriptionSite designBuilding programSustainable approachDesign for passive coolingDesign for lean productionEmployee well-beingIndoor thermal comfortConstruction materialsEconomic performanceEnergy efficiencyWater managementClean energyGreen manufacturing

Interviews

Project Team Leader for MAS Intimates Thurulie Vidhura RalapanaweMAS Intimates CEO and Managing Director Dian Gomes

Acknowledgements and sources

Holcim Foundation

Technical data

Clothing factoryin Sri Lanka

MAS Intimates Thurulie

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By Peter Spirig, CEO of Holcim Lanka

A fresh perspective

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Sustainable factory design is important because industrial manufacturing

not only consumes substantial energy and material resources, but directly

or indirectly accounts for significant emissions of pollutants and greenhouse

gases. The factory as a building type has emerged over the last two centuries

as a machine for mass production, with little concern for environmental or

social effects. Factory owners and designers who wish to advance beyond

this model must dismiss all preconceptions of what a factory is.

The designers of MAS Intimates Thurulie attained a fresh perspective by

concentrating on environmental and social criteria. They created a building

in which every occupant enjoys fresh air, natural light, comfortable

surroundings, and beautiful outdoor views of intact nature. Operation of

the building is not only energy efficient but carbon neutral. Seventy five

percent of the factory’s land area is left to nature, covered with greenery

or water, and managed as a habitat for plants and animals. The approach

led to an extraordinary factory that is not a sweatshop, but a workplace

in unison with nature; not a sprawling footprint in its rural setting, but a

preserver of habitat; not a carefree consumer of energy, but a miser.

How did this noteworthy achievement come about? Although the factory

is in Sri Lanka, the story begins in the United Kingdom. Marks & Spencer

learned that its customers demanded even greater ethical and environmental

responsibility. Management responded by devising Plan A, a five-year “eco”

program for worldwide improvement, including the company’s suppliers,

one of which is MAS Intimates. The new plant that MAS Intimates planned

at Thulhiriya and built with the support of Marks & Spencer is one of the

flagship “Eco Factory” projects under Plan A. Everyone in this story is a

winner. Marks & Spencer further bolstered its image with concrete proof

of its commitment to people and to the environment; the workers at MAS

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“This innovative structureinvites architects andindustrialists to rethink thefactory as a building type.”

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Intimates Thurulie enjoy an exceptional working environment; MAS

Holdings has an efficient new plant recognized as a benchmark in the

apparel industry; consumers have a further source of clothing they can

trust; the government of Sri Lanka has assurance that the rehabilitation of

the formerly abandoned industrial park is well under way; the communities

near the plant have regained economic hope; and animals reign undis-

turbed on the facility grounds all night long.

It is the combination of all these benefits that makes this building a

remarkable example of sustainable design. MAS Intimates Thurulie was

designed, built, and commissioned in just thirteen months – encouraging

evidence that it is clearly possible to make significant progress toward

sustainability during our lifetime.

We must not forget that MAS Intimates Thurulie is a true proponent of

sustainability because it combines not only environmental and social

performance, but is also economically successful against stringent

competition from other, less “sustainability-minded” manufacturers in

the garment industry. MAS Intimiates Thurulie clearly shows that a

company can indeed do well by doing good.

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd is proud to have been involved in the realization of this

forward-looking building as supplier of locally-produced cement. We take

pleasure in publishing this booklet to raise awareness of the opportunities

for adopting new approaches in construction. Our thanks go to the

Swiss-based Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction for providing

extensive support in preparing this publication for the benefit of stake-

holders also beyond Sri Lanka.

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Quantum change and transferability

Ethical standards and social equity

Ecological quality and energy conservation

Economic performance and compatibility

Contextual response and aesthetic impact

Sustainable construction

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Sustainable development and architecture are multifarious subjects

intertwined with many other complex issues. To make sustainable

construction easier to understand, evaluate, and apply, the Holcim

Foundation for Sustainable Construction developed a five-point definition.

These five so-called “target issues” serve as yardsticks to measure the

degree to which a building contributes to sustainable development. Three

of the five target issues align with the primary goals of the Rio Agenda:

balanced environmental, social, and economic performance. A further

target issue applies specifically to building – the creation of good buildings,

neighborhoods, towns, and cities. The final target issue recognizes the

need for significant advancements that can be applied on a broad scale.

These five target issues are explained in detail and illustrated at

www.holcimfoundation.org/target. Following is a summary of the five

criteria and how MAS Intimates Thurulie meets them.

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Significant advancements in construction practice, if applied on a broad scale,

can contribute much toward global sustainability. Important advances must

be recognized as such and repeatedly applied to achieve significant change.

Practices and ideas that transfer best are those that are affordable, simple,

and broadly applicable.

Quantum change andtransferability

MAS Intimates Thurulie claims to

be the world’s first clothing factory

powered solely by carbon-neutral

sources.

The building is a visionary depar-

ture from the traditional factory.

It sets new standards for ethics and

environmental stewardship in

manufacturing.

As a model building under Marks &

Spencer’s eco-initiative Plan A,

the project is an example for the

company, the apparel industry, and

other industries.

The design is advanced in many

respects. Compared with the

average factory, it is state of the

art.

As the flagship factory of MAS

Holdings, the building is a globally

publicized icon symbolic of the

company’s commitment to sustain-

able development.

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Sustainable buildings conserve finite resources and minimize greenhouse gas

emissions. Good built environments are healthful for humans, animals, and

plants. Green buildings help keep the natural environment and ecosystems

healthy by reducing waste, controlling pollution, and treating land, air, and

water as precious resources.

Ecological quality and energyconservation

MAS Intimates Thurulie was

designed in compliance with

USGBC standards for green build-

ings. The owner is applying for

LEED certification for the building,

which attests to outstanding over-

all environmental performance.*

Energy required for operation is

forty percent lower than that of

comparable factories. Only renew-

able and carbon-neutral energy

sources are used.

The compact building is carefully

placed on the intensively planted

site to minimize environmental

impact and provide habitat for a

broad variety of plant and animal

species.

Every drop of water on the site is

carefully managed; consumption

of potable water is half that of

comparable plants.

To reduce the gray energy in the

building, the main exterior walls

are made of compressed stabilized-

earth blocks manufactured forty

kilometers from the site.

* LEED (Leadership in Energy and EnvironmentalDesign) is the Green Building Rating System™ ofthe U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC).

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In many communities, sustainable construction principally involves supplying

urgent basic needs such as shelter, water, schools, and access to goods, services,

and medical care. Towns and buildings must respond to emotional and

psychological needs of people by providing stimulating environments, raising

awareness of important values, inspiring the human spirit, and bonding

society. Sustainable construction also includes fair and respectful treatment

of everyone involved during the design, construction, use, and recycling of

buildings and cities.

Ethical standards and socialequity

Health and well-being of staff are

central to the design of MAS

Intimates Thurulie. The building

offers a comfortable, healthful, and

attractive indoor environment for

all users.

As part of its service to employees,

the plant buses employees to and

from work, provides free lunches

for staff, trains workers, and pro-

vides on-site conveniences such as

medical care and banking.

The production floor is divided into

separate areas where workers

collaborate in autonomous teams,

enhancing productivity and

employee satisfaction.

The eco-factory is an ethical

response to consumers who

called for stronger environmental

stewardship.

The beautiful and stimulating

environment is uplifting; the

factory is a place where people

feel respect and dignity.

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Every building must be financially feasible to build, operate, maintain, and

ultimately remove. Sustainable buildings can help balance the distribution of

wealth by supporting the disadvantaged. This can be achieved by establishing

long-term new bases for livelihoods, stimulating local economic activity, and

paving the way to broader economic integration.

Economic performanceand compatibility

MAS Intimates Thurulie is designed

for lean manufacturing; the factory

is profitable to operate, displaying

energy efficiency, operational

efficiency, and good productivity.

Because operation is very efficient,

the payback period for the added

costs of making a green building is

only five years.

The iconic building enhances the

brand equity of the manufacturer,

MAS Intimates; its group, MAS

Holdings; and its retailer, Marks &

Spencer.

The new factory revives a historic

industrial center, reestablishing a

local economic base and providing

sustainable long-term employment

for 1,300 local people.

As a motor of the new MAS Fabric

Park, the plant is central to the

further development of an efficient

manufacturing hub.

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Sustainable architecture is durable and adaptable. It provides an attractive,

comfortable, and functional indoor environment. It enhances its surroundings,

fitting functionally and aesthetically into the community setting. It provides

culturally relevant indoor and outdoor spaces.

Contextual and aestheticimpact

MAS Intimates Thurulie offers a

pleasant and functional indoor

environment that ideally supports

manufacturing.

Harmonizing with the site, the

building expresses respect for

nature. The indoor and outdoor

spaces are woven into a green park.

Built literally of local soil, furnished

and finished with indigenous

materials such as bamboo, and

incorporating traditional Sri Lankan

architectural elements such as

courtyards, the building is of and

for the locality and culture in

which it exists.

To achieve a comfortable indoor

environment economically, the

design responds to the tropical

climate with a full array of passive

cooling measures and with an

energy-efficient mechanical

cooling system.

The building is a catalyst for the

68-hectare MAS Fabric Park, planned

as a mixed-use rural settlement

that offers a high-quality environ-

ment for working and living.

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Apparel production and export accounts for two thirds of Sri Lanka’s

industrial product. The three-billion-dollar industry is the country’s largest

export earner, directly and indirectly supporting a million of the nation’s

21 million inhabitants.

Thulhiriya Textile Mills was established in 1968 as a state institution in

Thulhiriya, a rural community 65 kilometers northeast of Colombo, the

nation’s capital. In the 1970s the 68-hectare complex was the largest

mill complex in Asia, the motor of the regional economy, and a driver of

national industrial development. After the complex was privatized in

the 1980s, it declined over the following two decades and finally went

bankrupt in 2003, which devastated the local economy. The state tried to

revive the complex several times, but without success.

In 2006 the government of Sri Lanka invited MAS Holdings, the country’s

largest clothing manufacturer, to lease the complex and revitalize it as

a privately managed industrial park for textile processing and export.

Thus MAS Fabric Park was formed from the remnants of its forty year old

forerunner. The new clothing factory MAS Intimates Thurulie opened

here in 2008, initially employing several hundred people, and returning

economic prosperity to the district.

Costs in Sri Lanka are higher than those in most of Asia, so Sri Lankan

companies pick niches to survive. MAS makes sophisticated, high-value

garments such as lingerie for Victoria’s Secret and other leading brands.

MAS Intimates Thurulie manufactures lingerie exclusively for Britain’s

biggest clothier, Marks & Spencer, which operates about 750 stores in

MAS Fabric Park andMAS Intimates Thurulie

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Europe, 600 in the UK. Marks & Spencer conducted a customer survey in

2006 that showed that 78 percent of its customers wanted to know

what materials go into the products they buy, where and how the items

are made, and what the related environmental impact is. Answering to

customer response, Marks & Spencer devised Plan A – a USD 400,000,

five-year, company-wide environmental and social sustainability program.

Plan A comprises 100 points to be achieved by 2012, one of which is

setting up model green factories that supply goods to Marks & Spencer.

Marks & Spencer invited three Sri Lankan suppliers to build such model

factories. MAS Intimates Thurulie became the first plant to be designed

in line with this plan, and is believed to be the first purpose-built green

manufacturing facility in the world. It cost seven million dollars. Marks &

Spencer financed USD 400,000 of the sum, paying for much of the green

design and for the plant’s photovoltaic system, the largest in Sri Lanka.

Although MAS invested a great amount in the factory, Marks & Spencer

pays no premium for the products, and provides no guarantees. MAS

voluntarily supports Plan A primarily because the company insists on

contributing to a sustainable world.

Ground plan

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MAS Fabric Park is located in Thulhiriya, five kilometers from a hub where

two highways intersect. The park possesses well-developed infrastructure

with roads, all utilities, and a water treatment plant. It includes zones

for industrial, warehousing, residential, commercial, institutional, and

religious uses. It also includes green belts, but none near the site.

MAS assessed the sites available in the industrial park. Although the park

is large, few suitable sites were available. The vacant buildings in the

park poorly suited the needs of the future plant. The main building of the

old mill is a dark hall measuring 500 meters by 1,000 meters. A site at

the northern tip of the park was chosen for the new factory.

Site description

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The site measures 3.32 hectares and is roughly trapezoidal, bordering

Kurunegala Main Road to the east, the Ma Oya River to the west, a

DogiEFA factory to the south, and an electrical substation to the north.

The general orientation is toward the northwest. The rolling terrain

tumbles six meters from the highest point in the southeast corner to the

lowest in the west. Slopes are steep only along the southern boundary.

The soil is laterite with high clay content.

The wooded site was previously undeveloped. A manmade pond, measuring

about 6,900 square meters, occupied much of the western half of the site.

The site had been used earlier as a recreational park, and it also had been

a deer park. Tall trees grew on some parts of the site, and tall grass and

bushes covered other parts.

The climate is typical of the lowland wet-zone of southwest Sri Lanka.

Diurnal temperature fluctuation is greater than annual or seasonal

fluctuation. Average daily temperatures vary from 23° to 30° Celsius.

High temperatures exceeding 32°occur on about 65 days a year. The region

has more than 100 rain days a year, with approximately 2,400 millimeters

per year of rainfall. Humidity averages 74 percent, but can easily approach

90 percent in early morning and late evening during most of the year.

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The thrust of the site design is to accommodate the building on one hand

and to respect nature on the other. The architects’ approach was to limit

the intrusion of the building on the land and to treat the unbuilt areas of

the site as a natural habitat. This was achieved by planning a compact

building with a footprint of only 6,780 square meters, leaving a maximum

of open space, which was either left undisturbed or improved with erosion

control and new planting. The lake and the heavily wooded western part

of the site were protected. Most large trees on the site were preserved.

The building is located near the center of the site, situated in response to

the terrain, climate, soil, and hydrology. Natural topography and drainage

patterns were preserved as much as possible by situating the building

along the contour lines and raising Building G on stilts. The footprint of

the two-story building covers about fifteen percent of the site.

The entrance to the site is at the southeast corner. Pedestrian and vehicu-

lar circulation are segregated at the entrance, and routed along efficient

pathways. The main road for trucks hugs the eastern boundary of the site,

merging midway with the shipping-and-receiving court. The employee

entrance is north of the main gate, the visitor entrance is to the northwest,

and ten parking spaces for cars of visitors and staff are to the west.

Parking for 25 bicycles is provided next to the locker rooms and showers

at the employee entrance.

All roads, walks, and terraces on the site are paved with cement-stabilized

earth instead of sealed pavement. The porous surface, including gravel

in the mix of the top layer, reduces runoff and helps recharge the ground-

water. Paving covers about ten percent of the site.

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Site design

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Three quarters of the site is left to nature, including the lake, large areas of

undisturbed terrain, and the densely overgrown western part of the site.

Over 300 trees were planted, doubling the number on the site. Essentially

all areas not taken by the building, lake, or pathways were planted with

trees, most of them in the courtyards and in the green belt to the east of

the building.

Requirements for watering and maintenance are half the usual, due to

the use of efficient drip irrigation and endemic and adapted species. Rare,

endangered, and medicinal species are planted as well.

Thurulie is in the intermediate climatic zone of Sri Lanka. The site can host

plants from the country’s wet zone and dry zone. Species from both zones

are present. For example, at the top of the cascade, dry-zone plants thrive

in the strong sun. At the base, where water accumulates, wet-zone plants

thrive in the moisture. The green roofs of the building support a local grass

variety and some medicinal herbs. These plants require little maintenance.

No drop of water that enters the site is lost without providing a benefit.

Green areas are designed to absorb up to 25 millimeters of rain before

runoff begins. Erosion is controlled by porous surfaces, dense planting,

and, where necessary on steep slopes, stabilized soil. An innovative

feature is the “cascade” – a terraced slope built of cement-stabilized

rammed earth. The pattern is reminiscent of terraced rice paddies in

mountains. All runoff is channeled to the retention pond, which is the

primary irrigation source for the greenery on the site.

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The pond was dredged and enlarged. Native fish species and indigenous

water plants were introduced to create a sustainable and diverse biotope.

With the lake and green areas, biodiversity on the site has expanded

significantly. In particular, reptiles and birds, including waterfowl, have

increased in number and variety. The facility is used during daylight hours

only. At night the site is left to nature, and emissions of light and noise

are kept low.

With abundant greenery, undulating slopes, and the lake, the site is

a beautiful setting for the factory. The vegetation helps keep the factory

cool. Shading of the building and grounds will keep the building

an estimated 1 to 2° Celsius cooler, especially when the trees mature

and the green canopy spreads.

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Building program

MAS Intimates Thurulie, a 10,000-square-meter building for 1,300 people,

is the first MAS plant designed fully in line with the MAS Operating

System, the company’s lean-production standard. In contrast to the industry

norm, in which the typical factory is a single large hall, the lean-production

standard requires smaller production areas, each containing a complete

value stream, from cutting fabric to packaging finished garments.

The production floors are free from columns and other hindrances, so that

each production cell can arrange its machinery to best suit the garments

being made. The arrangement of electrical receptacles and lighting

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Sustainable approach

Both MAS Holdings and Marks & Spencer wanted the plant to be an

iconic model for green manufacturing, to set new standards for design,

construction, and operation. Incorporating advanced technology in most

areas, the building does this in several ways.

To realize a sustainable design, the architects applied a three-point

philosophy of respect for the site, respect for users, and respect for

ecosystems. These three aims, complementing the functional and

commercial requirements for the project, served as selection criteria for

all materials and systems used in the building. The design is inspired

by traditional Sri Lankan architecture, built partially on stilts, with court-

yards, amid lush greenery.

The building is energy efficient and the indoor climate is comfortable,

a challenging combination in the tropics. It is powered by carbon-neutral

sources. The facility uses half the water of comparable factories, even

though the grounds are a veritable garden. It incorporates an anaerobic

digestion system for sewage treatment. These are all suggestions of Plan A.

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Design for passive cooling

The building is designed for efficient production, a comfortable atmo-

sphere, and low energy consumption. Meeting these three criteria in the

tropics means mastering above all one thing – cooling. Cooling is achieved

at the plant primarily by passive design and secondarily by active systems.

Passive means include the orientation and massing of building volumes,

controlled fenestration and ventilation, shading of the building and its

surroundings, and thermal mass and solar reflectivity of the facades and

roofs.

The high angle of the sun during most of the year makes the east and

west facades the most difficult to shade. Thus, the main building volumes,

the production spaces, are aligned on an east-west axis, the north and

south facades being the largest. This solar orientation makes it easier to

block direct solar radiation.

East Elevation

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The massing of the building volumes and the positioning and sizing of

windows permit daylight to enter as natural illumination without causing

substantial heat gain. Horizontal shading intercepts the northern sun at

midyear and the southern sun later in the year.

Thermal roof load, the largest contributor to heat gain and indoor

discomfort in the tropics, is controlled by a combination of green roofs,

photovoltaic roofs, and cool roofs. Green roofs cover 1,757 square meters

of the building. They are installed on concrete decks over shortspan spaces

such as the offices. Covered with turf and plants, the high thermal mass

of this roof absorbs heat without transmitting it into the building. The

cool roof is a lightweight metal roof assembly over the longspan produc-

tion halls. The white metal, with a solar reflectivity index of 79, reflects

four fifths of the solar energy that reaches the roof. The photovoltaic roof

44

covers 200 square meters of the building with solar panels. This system

not only prevents thermal gain, it transforms the energy into electricity.

Another passive means of keeping the building cool is to cool the micro-

climate, or reduce the ambient heat around the building.

The heat-island effect around the building is controlled by shading, by

covering parking areas, by using lighter, reflective paving around the

building instead of dark, heat-absorbent paving, and by shaded courtyards

between the building volumes. The combination of the many passive

cooling measures reduces the thermal load to a level that can be handled

by environmentally efficient cooling systems instead of power-hungry

conventional systems.

The facility accommodates 1,300 occupants, of whom nearly 1,100 are

machine operators. The architects created a worker-centered design in

which industrial processes are decentralized, according to the high-

productivity MAS lean-manufacturing standard. The production floor is

separated into five halls, creating a more intimate atmosphere. This not

only makes climate control more efficient, but also supports a complete

value chain within each hall. At the time of writing, all wings of the facility

have been built except one, the two story Building E, which will be built

in 2009.

Just-in-time manufacturing processes dramatically reduce storage space

required for raw material and finished goods in the facility, improving the

percentage of the factory floor area utilized for value-adding activities.

The production spaces are designed for an inventory-free operation – the

raw material required for the days is delivered in the morning, and

the completed and packed garments leave the floor by end of the day.

Internal layouts are planned to minimize transportation with all elements

required for the machine operators to be within arm’s reach. Space is also

allocated for systematic problem solving.

The layout provides visual connection between offices and production

floors. The plant is wireless network-enabled, and nearly all computer

users have laptops and mobile phones linked to the company phone

system, giving staff the mobility to work anywhere in the facility. In fact,

managers are encouraged to work with their teams in small groups on the

production floors. Meeting areas and lounges are interspersed throughout

the building, encouraging impromptu exchanges.

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Design for lean production

48

In the interest of worker well-being, the architects paid special attention

to the work areas, particularly regarding an attractive environment,

pleasant outdoor views, thermal comfort, fresh air, and illumination,

including natural light and task lighting. Large windows are a key part

of the design, bringing the green outdoors into all working spaces. “We

feel like we’re working in a natural environment. There are trees around

and good ventilation though there is no air conditioning,” says machine

operator Harshini Maheshika.

Also in the interest of worker convenience, MAS operates chartered buses

between the plant and nearby villages. Most employees commute by bus.

Mass transit options will increase as more factories come on line in the

park. The plant also provides free meals, medical care, and on-site banking.

MAS developed “Women Go Beyond,” a program to educate and empower

women, who comprise 85 percent of the plant’s workforce. MAS has strong

community relationships and commitments to society. Mahesh Amalean,

Chairman of MAS Holdings says: “We believe strongly that if the people

we work with have their basic needs taken care of, they are freer to con-

centrate on the work at hand and bring out their best.”

Employee well-being

50

The air in production spaces and offices is cooled and exchanged by a

system of evaporative cooling units. These units intake outdoor air, filter

it, and treat it with atomized water. The air is then distributed through

ducts to the spaces, which remain under positive static pressure. Exhaust

fans help replace the air at a rate of about 40 air changes per hour. Indoor

air movement is perceptible.

When atomized water is sprayed into the warm make-up air, the water

evaporates, extracting thermal energy from the air. This reduces the

dry-bulb temperature of the air while increasing the moisture content. The

system reduces dry-bulb temperatures by up to 3°Celsius and increases

humidity by about ten percent. The amount of water spray is based on the

indoor relative humidity, and thus depends on the diurnal variation of

relative humidity on the site. More water is used at midday, and little or

none in the mornings and evenings. When the outdoor humidity is high,

no water is sprayed, and the units operate in the ventilation mode only.

Indoor thermal comfort

The cafeteria isnaturally ventilated,taking advantageof its situation onthe top floor over-looking the lake.The green roof andshade of trees helpskeep the space cool.A steady breezeusually providesadequate ventila-tion, eliminating theneed for mechanicalventilation.

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The psychrometric chart below shows the extended comfort zones achiev-

able at higher indoor air speeds. The limits of the comfort zone specified

by ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55-2004 are at an indoor air velocity below

0.2 m/s, for PMVs of ±0.5, clothing of about 0.6 clo, and 1.2 met activity.

This data was validated by workers in the factory and through surveys

under similar climatic conditions elsewhere in Sri Lanka. Staff dress cool.

All workers wear T-shirts and may work barefoot.

The maximum observed temperature on the ground floor of Building C is

29° Celsius, which is acceptable because the indoor air velocity of 0.8

meters per second keeps the environment within the extended comfort

zone specified by the ASHRAE standard. The air velocity is maintained by

the balanced duct system, the design of which is quite different from

ductwork for mechanical-compression or vapor-absorption air-conditioning

systems.

Psychrometricchart from theASHRAE StandardHandbookshowing extendedcomfort zones.The indoorenvironment atMAS IntimatesThurulie is wellwithin thesezones.

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To reduce the gray energy in the building, the main exterior walls are

made of compressed stabilized-earth blocks manufactured forty kilometers

from the site. The blocks, made of local soil, sand, and locally manufactured

cement, are machine molded with a wire-cut finish and chamfered corners.

They are laid in a cement-soil-sand mortar in the ratio of 1:3:6, matching

the color of the blocks. The large blocks minimize mortar joints. The walls

require no plaster finish and are simply sealed with varnish on the interior

and exterior.

The building is framed in concrete and steel with a high recycling content.

Roofing is zinc-aluminum. Windows are metal framed. Floor finishes

include polished concrete tile, rendered and cut concrete, tile, and wood.

Bamboo is used for window blinds and various forms of sunscreen.

Non-hazardous finishes and materials are used throughout the building,

ensuring good indoor air quality, which is aided by a high rate of air

exchange. Partitions are gypsum board, and tabletops MDF. No viable

greener alternatives are available in Sri Lanka.

The construction process was managed with a special emphasis on

minimizing negative impacts to the environment. Topsoil was separated

during excavation and preserved to be used later for landscaping. To

prevent soil erosion during construction, measures were taken such as

Construction materials

54

planting, silt traps, and stormwater-collection ponds. Special mechanisms

were introduced to recycle construction waste, reducing the amount of

waste that went into landfills.

Aesthetics of MAS Intimates Thurulie is fashioned by the interplay of

linear structures softened by the organic forms of trees. The structure is

finished with exposed steel and ducting, with soft brown brick walls.

Vibrant purple, orange, and green accents create a dynamic feel. The pond

has a calming influence as a serene counterbalance to the busy operations

in the factory. Visuals are dominated by lush greenery. A boulder-garden

centerpiece dominates the entrance. Art and antiques add character to

the spaces, and the bare walls are adorned by colorful posters of lingerie

models and the key environmental messages of the factory.

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The factory cost USD seven million to build; 25 percent more than the

conventional equivalent. MAS expects the higher construction cost to

be amortized within the first five years because of the energy-efficient

operation of the building and higher operational efficiencies based on

MOS. The factory purchases its green power at a premium, which it can

afford because it consumes less.

The additional cost of the green and ethical building creates intangible

but substantial value in the form of goodwill. The building enhances

the image of both MAS Holdings and Marks & Spencer, reinforcing the

reputations of both as responsible and ethical companies.

Employing 1,300 people, the plant revitalizes the local rural economy and

provides sustainable livelihoods. MAS plans to invest USD one million in

the park and achieve many forms of synergy among the various plants.

Economic performance

58

MAS Intimates Thurulie was designed for low energy consumption by

reducing power demand and by using efficient equipment. Electricity is

virtually the sole form of energy used by clothing factories in Sri Lanka,

required chiefly for production machinery, lighting, and air conditioning.

Air conditioning alone accounts for about half the consumption in typical

plants with conventional vapor-compression equipment. Using passive

design to reduce heat loads, and efficient evaporative cooling equipment,

an indoor temperature of 27 to 29° Celsius (compared with 25 to 26° in an

average factory) is maintained, while consuming only 25 percent of the

cooling energy of an average factory.

Energy consumption for lighting was reduced by maximizing daylighting

and by using well-designed systems with efficient lamps. Offices, cafeteria,

lounge, reception area, meeting rooms, and board rooms are normally

illuminated by daylight only. The glare-free illumination is usually adequate

even on rainy days. Daylight is adequate roughly from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m.,

which easily covers the normal operating hours of the plant. An added

benefit of doing without artificial lights is reduced heat gain inside the

building.

In conventional factories the whole production floor is floodlit at a uni-

form high intensity. At Thurulie, aisles are illuminated with natural and

ambient light, and work areas are illuminated with task lighting – high-

efficiency T5 tubes and LED lamps mounted on the sewing machines –

focusing the correct amount of light at needlepoint. The system requires

about half the number of light fixtures. Every light fixture can be easily

repositioned and switched on and off individually as required. Sewing

machines with direct-drive servo motors were chosen for energy efficiency,

as were laptop computers.

Energy efficiency

60

Every drop of water that enters the site is carefully managed. Consumption

of potable water is about half that of comparable plants.

Rainwater that falls on the cool roofs is collected and used for flushing

toilets. The storage tanks and toilets are gravity fed, eliminating the need

for pumps. When the tanks run dry during a drought, water is sourced

from the main own system. When the tanks become full after prolonged

rain, the overflow is conducted underground into the pond. Rain patterns

are such that rainwater covers ninety percent of the flushing needs. Rain-

water that falls on the green roofs is collected, channeled through a gravel-

and-sand filter, and discharged into the pond, which naturally replenishes

the groundwater. Overflow from the pond feeds into the Ma Oya River.

Wastewater from all plumbing fixtures is treated on site in an anaerobic

plant. The system uses very little power – relying primarily on gravity in

moving wastewater and sewage to the plant using pumps only for the

last phase. The plant by itself does not consume power and generates bio

gas, which is captured and used in the kitchen. Water discharged from

the treatment plant passes through an absorption-and-filtration bed, and

the purified water is then conducted into the retention pond. Solids from

the treatment plant are used as compost.

The factory uses potable water only for cooking, washing, drinking (after

filtration), for the evaporative cooling system, and as a backup for flushing

toilets. Dual-flush toilets and low-flow plumbing fixtures minimize water

consumption. The water comes from the Ma Oya River, which borders the

park. It is purified and distributed by MAS Fabric Park. The plant is not

connected to a municipal sewer or water distribution system. No water is

used in production.

Water management

62

The plant uses clean energy only, and in several forms. The rooftop photo-

voltaic system with a capacity of 25.6 kilowatts generates ten percent

of the power required. Thurulie boasts the first use of net metering in

Sri Lanka. Net metering is an arrangement between the power company

and consumer whereby the consumer is credited for the electricity it

generates and feeds into the public grid. At Thurulie this happens on

weekends and holidays.

A small hydroelectric power plant connected to the public grid provides

the other ninety percent of the factory’s power. Thurulie signed a power-

Clean energy

63

supply agreement with the plant, the first such agreement in Sri Lanka.

Thus the plant’s two primary energy sources, photovoltaic and hydro-

electric power, are renewable and carbon neutral.

Three electric bikes are used at the plant. The plant is equipped with a

vacuum-tube system for solar water heating. Water is preheated in

the tubes and then heated in conventional boilers. Methane gas from

the sewage-treatment plant is collected for firing stoves and ovens in

the kitchen.

64

MAS Intimates Thurulie is an encouraging picture of what green manufac-

turing can be – an energy-efficient plant using carbon-neutral power from

renewable sources, and a non-polluting, resource-conserving operation in

an environmentally friendly setting. The plant strives toward zero waste

in landfills. Empty thread cones are recycled as are paper, plastics, glass,

and metal. The plant is collaborating with Marks & Spencer to develop

a fabric-defibering system for fabric waste. Fabric scraps currently go to

local craftspeople. The company seeks to reduce transport-related CO2

emissions by promoting carpooling and offering financial incentives for

employees who commute by bicycle or bus.

Looking beyond the site, the sourcing of base materials and the distribution

of finished goods come into the overall picture of the supply chain. Sri

Lanka traditionally has had to import most of its raw materials and fuels.

MAS Holdings is working to establish local sources of base materials.

Finished products are shipped to Europe by sea, the most environmentally

efficient mode of transport. Thus MAS Intimates Thurulie, as an environ-

mentally, socially, and economically sustainable factory, significantly

contributes to the greening of this international supply chain.

Green manufacturing

67

“Creating awareness and under-standing for sustainability”

Interview with Vidhura Ralapanawe, Manager Sustainability &

Communications at MAS Intimates and Team Leader of the

Thurulie building project

68

Vidhura Ralapanawe: A building should always invite a person to engage,

to create curiosity. At Thurulie we wanted to create a curiosity and an

interest to look into the concept of sustainability.

This is a big philosophical challenge, because while many will broadly

articulate what it is, there is very little consensus on how radical the shift

has to be, beyond business as usual. If we need broader engagement and

enhancement of discourse, a mere green building would not have sufficed.

During the design phase, we made a conscious choice to optimize the

building-human ecosystem rather than just the building. The building

invites the active participation of its occupants for optimal functioning.

There are required behavioral changes – more climate-appropriate

clothing, being a conscious consumer of energy, i.e. switching off lights

in lavatories and workspaces when not needed.

All of this is achieved with creating awareness and understanding. All

occupants of the building get detailed training that explains the whys and

hows of the building. If we are to move into a sustainable society, we need

radical behavioral change. We could have designed a motion-sensitive

lighting system that automatically switches off when no one is around.

But if one gets used to switching off an unnecessary light at work, he or

she will do the same thing at home. And we know this is actually happening.

This is a learning center. In the first six months of operations, we have

hosted more than 1,000 people coming to see the factory – people from

the apparel industry, construction industry, industrialists, academia, com-

petitors, and students. We discuss climate change and its local impacts.

We framed our approach in broader environmental principles. We have

made it iconic and accessible, taking time to explain the principles behind

what we do, and a lot of the visitors take something back.

Thurulie has inspired many suppliers to Marks & Spencer on their own

journeys toward creating sustainable buildings. I think we have created a

transformational building.

Has this green building changed the attitude of people

toward sustainability?

69

There is the danger of LEED becoming a straightjacket rather than an

enabler, and the distinction lies in the hands of the designers. At

Thurulie, LEED came into the picture later in the design process – once

the concept, form, and structures were well defined. So LEED was

never the driver of the design. I always consider Thurulie to be first a

green building, and second a LEED building. For us, LEED was never the

ultimate test of sustainability.

LEED is set to become the de facto global standard, hence it will be

very difficult to ignore. It is a great standard and will ensure one

has looked at all aspects of sustainability within the design. When

clients start demanding specific LEED ratings it will constrain creative

expression, and force points accumulation.

LEED of course is a consensus standard, and that has its inherent

challenges. But sustainability demands that one break free from the

orthodoxy, and designers need to be daring enough to look beyond LEED.

Factories in Sri Lanka are built as column-free single story buildings.

Two-story is itself a departure from the traditional style. Multiple

stories do pose challenges – in terms of regular goods and people

movement, as well as fire safety. Installing columns would have

reduced steel framing, but our lean processes demand column-free

spaces. It gives additional flexibility in changing the layouts of each

MAS Intimates Thurulie is designed to meet LEED criteria for

green buildings. How did you incorporate this criteria into

the design process for this building? Do you think there is

a danger of using the criteria as a checklist to collect

certification points, but missing the unique opportunities

that each project presents?

The building footprint could have been further reduced

by adding a third floor. The production halls are column

free to give flexibility in the layout of the production

lines. Two or three columns down the middle could

have halved the span, greatly reducing the steel framing.

70

production cell as well as the overall layout within the production hall as

well as enabling line-of-sight visibility of the complete production floor from

any one location.

While we could have worked with the current team to come up with a

suitable layout, that is merely a transient solution. The facility needs to

be able to support different product and or manufacturing processes.

Shifting away from the conventional column-free factory model could

have hindered the longer term usability of the facility.

It’s partly influenced by the location. Thulhiriya is an area with lush ver-

dancy, and the same can be said of the homes of most employees working

in the factory. So there is a natural affinity to this type of a setting com-

pared to a sterile factory type of setting. Trees also bring in a natural

harmony to the surroundings, in addition to the cooling properties and

carbon sequestration it brings.

On top of that, there is the aesthetic impact. The fluidity of the form, and

how it interplays with the strong lines of the building, and the utter calm-

ness that the surrounding brings into the busy working environment… it is

exactly what we wanted to achieve. And in a few years time, when the

newly planted trees really spread out and thrive, this facility would be

phenomenal to behold.

MAS as an organization also has an affiliation to an aesthetic heavily reliant

on trees and landscape – an initiative personally driven by Dian Gomes.

Thurulie design is heavily reliant on trees for functionality

and aesthetics. What prompted this choice?

71

Time was perhaps the biggest challenge we had. From the beginning

we understood that we had to create new rules of engagement

between the three entities – design team, contractors, and the com-

pany – if we were to deliver the project on time. Success of the project

depended on how well the relationship worked.

We were fortunate to tap into multiple synergies across the whole

process. There was a sense of experimentation and breaking bound-

aries that permeated across all parties all the way to subcontractors.

There was proactive engagement and a deep amount of trust. This

enabled us to tap into creativity at a grassroots level all the way to the

masons. Thus at the end the facility became better than we envisaged,

staying true to the original principles laid out thirteen months ago.

Still we did not leave anything to chance. The thermal control systems

were simulated and then deployed in trial spaces to tweak the system.

The materials were tested for structural properties. The rapid schedule

was not a shortcut.

We needed an exceptional team, who were brilliant in their own fields,

yet open enough to create synergies and build on each other. We were

able to create an idea of being explorers together, which was brilliantly

utilized by Ushaan Abeywickrama, General Manager of MAS Intimates

Thurulie, to ensure that the execution was exceptional and two weeks

before schedule.

The timeframe from the concept to the opening of the factory

was merely thirteen months – an outstanding achievement.

How was this possible?

73

“Opportunity to rewriteindustry standards”

Interview with Dian Gomes, CEO and Managing Director

of MAS Intimates

Marks & Spencer approached us with their Plan A, inviting us to set

up the first green factory under its umbrella. When I proposed this to

Deshamanya Mahesh Amalean, Chairman of MAS Holdings, his support

was wholehearted and immediate. He has always been a visionary chart-

74

Dian Gomes: For us, “going green” means opportunity – the opportunity to

rewrite industry standards, and bring the message of corporate environ-

mental sustainability to the fore in Sri Lanka and the world. We have

always been an ethical apparel manufacturer. We have invested heavily in

uplifting the lives of our employees, and the communities that we operate

in. We have focused on empowering our employees, especially women,

who make up the majority of our workforce. Our exceptional standards

and factory conditions, and our flagship program “Women Go Beyond,”

has received industry plaudits. Making a difference is an element of our

culture which is ingrained in the DNA of our employees.

Our focus has been primarily on social sustainability of our business, and

moving toward environmental sustainability is a natural progression. The

current global environmental challenges demand a robust response from

companies. We need to radically reassess all aspects of our business,

and understand its impacts in order to minimize them. We need a new

paradigm for the industry.

Going green is not something we widely hear from the

apparel industry. Can you tell us what it means to you?

What were the origins of MAS Intimates Thurulie?

Partnership of twolike-minded compa-nies: Sir Stuart Rose(M&S) and MaheshAmalean (MAS) atthe opening of thenew factory.

75

The apparel industry is a fiercely competitive one, especially

in countries like Sri Lanka. How do you build the business

case for this, and especially the premium capital cost?

ing our company’s direction years ahead. Our success was based on

unconventional relationships we developed with our key customers

and partners based on common values. This initiative fell right within

that frame and synergized with our focused emphasis on sustainability.

There were no benchmarks, no signposts along the way. It was a

pioneering effort, without any blueprints to follow, but one which

would impact the whole of Sri Lanka and beyond. A challenge, without

a doubt, but it was a natural position for us to be in. To innovate and

lead, to steer the industry in a whole new direction – that is some-

thing we have always excelled in. It was innovative and challenging, and

it was tightly coupled with sustainability – a natural fit for MAS. Our

customer relationships are always unconventional. We align ourselves

with companies that share our values of social conscientiousness.

Our relationship with Marks & Spencer broke new ground with

the construction of Thurulie. To paraphrase Marks & Spencer CEO

Sir Stuart Rose, it was really a partnership of two like-minded companies,

M&S and MAS.

Our role with our customers is not transactional, but based on rela-

tionships. This project marked a beginning – we as well as Marks &

Spencer understand the end value that this brings to both our brands.

The extra cost is partly offset by reductions on operational costs,

and increased efficiency. The plant is specifically designed for MAS’s

lean manufacturing standard, MOS. MOS’s primary focus is on the

reduction of waste, including cost, whilst boosting efficiency. Thus,

initial costs may have been high but we envision this to be offset

in the future as the MOS system becomes full integrated. In a new

business reality of shrinking margins and hyper-competition this

would become a key leveraging and differentiating factor. Thurulie

is an investment, and by changing industry standards and mindsets,

it is already yielding dividends.

Team leader: Vidhura Ralapanawe, MAS Intimates, [email protected]

General manager: Ushaan Abeywickrama, MAS Intimates Thurulie,

[email protected]

Architecture: Sanjeewa Lokuliyana, [email protected]

Architecture and conceptual framework: Professor Rohinton Emmanuel,

University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, [email protected]

Civil engineering: Professor Thishan Jayasinghe, University of Moratuwa,

Sri Lanka, [email protected]

Building materials: Dr. Chintha Jayasinghe, University of Moratuwa,

Sri Lanka, [email protected]

Energy and cooling system: Professor Rahula Attalage, University of

Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, [email protected]

Ecology: Professor B. N. P. Sinhakumara, University of Sri Jayawardenapura,

Sri Lanka, [email protected] and Nalinda Peiris, Peoples Institute for

Sustainable Development, 69/17C, Templars Road, Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka,

[email protected]

Chemical engineering: Professor Ajith de Alwis, University of Moratuwa,

Sri Lanka, [email protected]

Project manager for construction: Akash Hettiarachchi, MAS Intimates

Thurulie, [email protected]

General contractor: Maga Engineering (Pte) Ltd, 200, Nawala Road,

Colombo 05, Sri Lanka, www.maga.lk

Electrical engineering and lighting: Illukkumbura Automation (Pvt) Ltd,

23, Deal Place “A”, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka, [email protected]

Interiors: Westgate International (Pvt) Ltd, 71, Sri Saranankara Road,

Dehiwala, Sri Lanka, www.westgateinteriors.net

Design team

78

Sources

Photos

Acknowledgements

Address

“Get your green pants here,” The Economist, 31 May 2008

Address by His Excellency President Mahinda Rajapaksa at the

opening of the Thulhiriya Textile Export Complex on October 19, 2007;

www.president.gov.lk

www.masholdings.com

The Official Government News Portal of Sri Lanka

LBRdigital, 17 May 2008, pp 4-7

Holcim Awards 2007/2008 Submission Form

Devaka Senevirathna, Studio Times

Grateful acknowledgement is due to Vidhura Ralapanawe,

Sustainability Manager, MAS Intimates, and to Kokila Arandara and

Hashini Wickramaratne, MAS Intimates Thurulie

MAS Intimates Thurulie (Pvt) Ltd, MAS Fabric Park, Kurunegala Road,

Thulhiriya, Sri Lanka www.masholdings.com

79

80

An international competition for

future-oriented and tangible

sustainable construction projects.

The Holcim Awards recognize

any contribution to sustainable

construction – irrespective of scale –

in architecture, landscape and

urban design, civil and mechanical

engineering and related disciplines.

Prize money of USD 2 million per

three-year competition cycle encour-

ages and inspires achievements

that go beyond convention, explore

new ways and means, and draw

attention to and identify excellence.

The Awards competition is conducted

in partnership with some of the

world’s leading technical universities*

who lead the independent competi-

tion juries to evaluate entries

according to the target issues for

sustainable construction.

www.holcimawards.org

The Holcim Foundation for

Sustainable Construction promotes

innovative approaches to sustainable

construction. The objective of the

Holcim Foundation is to encourage

sustainable responses to the

technological, environmental,

socioeconomic and cultural issues

affecting building and construction,

regionally as well as globally –

through a range of initiatives,

including Holcim Awards, Holcim

Forum, and Holcim Projects.

Holcim Foundation

* The partner universities of the Holcim Foundationare the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETHZurich), Switzerland; Massachusetts Institute ofTechnology (MIT), Cambridge, USA; Tongji University,Shanghai, China; Universidad Iberoamericano (UIA),Mexico City, Mexico; and University of theWitwatersrand, Johannesburg, South Africa.The Universidade de São Paulo (USP), Brazil, is anassociated university of the Holcim Foundation.

81

A series of symposiums for academia

and practitioners to encourage

discourse on the future of the built

environment. The Holcim Forum

supports sustainable construction

in the scientific field, among

experts in the construction sector,

business and society.

In addition to renowned specialists

from around the world, promising

international students from leading

technical universities are invited,

to represent the next generation

and to share their visions.

The first Holcim Forum was

held at the Swiss Federal Institute

of Technology (ETH Zurich),

Switzerland, in 2004 under the

theme “Basic Needs.” The second

Holcim Forum was held in 2007

at Tongji University in Shanghai,

China, under the theme

“Urban_Trans_Formation.”

www.holcimforum.org

Seed funding for building initiatives

and grants for research projects to

accelerate progress and promote

sustainable construction.

Within the framework of Holcim

Projects the Holcim Foundation

provides USD 1 million per three-

year cycle to support research in

sustainable construction and the

implementation of building proj-

ects. Projects nominated for seed

funding are evaluated according to

the target issues for sustainable

construction, and must be endorsed

by a local Holcim Group company.

The Holcim Foundation acts as

an enabler for both research

projects and building initiatives so

that, whatever their origin, exciting

and important new ideas can be

more widely implemented and

tested by a broader audience of

specialists.

www.holcimgrants.org

Site statistics: Location: Thulhiriya, Sri Lanka

Climate: tropical, humid

Terrain: rolling, moderately sloped

Area: 52,434 m2

Setting: rural industrial park

Parking: 10 spaces for vehicles and 25 for bicycles

Building Construction period: September 2007 to April 2008

statistics: Building type: clothing factory

Building volume: 48,486 m3

Maximum number of occupants: 1,300

Gross usable floor area: 7,854 m2

Number of finished floors: 2

Number of basements: 0

Construction: concrete and steel framing; compressed stabilized earth block

(CSEB) exterior walls; zinc-aluminum roofing and green roofs

Construction cost: USD 2.66 million (338.50 USD/m2)

Construction cost of typical factories in Sri Lanka: 308 USD/m2

Annual operating cost: 0.3 USD/m2

Annual operating cost of comparable factories in Sri Lanka: 1.61 USD/m2

Technical data

©2008 by Holcim (Lanka) Ltd, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd

413 R.A.de Mel Mawatha

Colombo 3, Sri Lanka

Phone +94 11 7800 800

Fax +94 11 2555 435

www.holcim.lk

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd413 R.A.de Mel MawathaColombo 3, Sri LankaPhone +94 11 7800 800Fax +94 11 2555 435www.holcim.lk