The Evolution of Climbing Equipment Standards finch images from Charles Darwin’s Voyage of the Beagle Dave Custer American Alpine Club/Alpine Club of Canada Delegate to the UIAA Safety Commission CWA Engineering Standards Committee Member MIT Lecturer
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Climbing Equipment Standards - MIT - Massachusetts Institute of
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The Evolutionof
Climbing EquipmentStandards
finch images from Charles Darwin’s Voyage of the Beagle
Dave Custer
American Alpine Club/Alpine Club of Canada Delegate to theUIAA Safety Commission
April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution
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ice ax standards
current ice ax standardsare based on the demandsof mountaineering
B and T blades?shaft strength?
the remedy will be slow,probably by intended use.
image from Grivel web site.
April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution
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via ferrata
April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution
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via ferratastandards
April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution
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lessons from standards history
Standards evolve.Standards are based on research & “physics”.Standards prevent equipment failure accidents.The evolution is slower than the evolution of the sport.
Expect:Standards development to follow new climbing developments.Increased standardization of safety systems.Increased standardization of best practices for safety systems.
April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution
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wild prediction: belaying will become a sport
April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution
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April 13, 2007 CWA Summit, Climbing Standards Evolution