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Author:thetoolman The Toolman Sitea.k.a. "The Toolman" has been creative and worked with his hands all of his life. He has been employed in a wide variety of industries including a museum, amajor power tool manufacturer, a national vitamin & supplement company and had his own ad agency. He's worked in wood, metal, plastics, electronics andgraphic arts. He dreams of spending all of his free time in his workshop tinkering with new ideas. He's also a tool junkie collecting antique wood workingtools. Email him at [email protected]. Visit his tool crib at http://thetoolcrib.webs.com/
Intro: Chuck Box - Camp KitchenProblem: I want to go car camping but, don't have an organized way of dealing with cooking, eating and cleanup besides several cardboard boxes full of camp stuff thatI don't know what it is. In other words, I'm starting from scratch. The last thing I want is to get the camp site and spend time digging through piles of stuff to cook a meal. Ithink you know where I'm coming from.
Solution: Create a portable storage container for camping related eating, cooking and cleanup tasks that:1. fits in the bed of my pickup.2. folds down for easy storage.3. expands at the camp site to provide more work space.4. contains all the basic eating, cooking and cleanup equipment.5. built from common on-hand materials and keep costs to a minimum.and lastly,6. stores easily at home ready for the next adventure.
Too good to be true? well let's give it a shot. This is a prototype version and depending on how it performs out in the field, may go through some changes.
I've attached a working drawing with dimensions that work for me. You may need to alter them to fit your needs. Good luck!
Difficulty scale: Depending on your carpentry skills, I'm rating this a 6 out of 10.
Image Notes1. Fresh water.2. Wash water.3. Everything you need to cook at camp. I'm hungry!!
Image Notes1. 17" high with folded top.2. 30" long.3. 17" deep.
Image Notes1. Opened up, the top counter space is doubled with the fold out top and you havecomplete access to all contents.
Step 1: Design - The BoxI spent quite a bit of time thinking about the best design that works for me. I found many good designs on the net and borrowed features from some and added many ofmy own. You may not like this design so feel free to change anything you like.
Design Criteria: 1. must fit stove and all cook/clean gear2. must maximize storage space for large and small items.3. must maximize working counter space.4. must hold fresh and wash water containers.
The Box: The 2 top panels fold out and are supported by the swing out doors. The doors double as storage space for cleaning and condiment items. I added bungees to the doorsto keep things from rattling around. The large storage compartment has adjustable shelves as does the right compartment. Nesting cooking components saves space andthe flip out door design allows easy access to all components.
Image Notes1. Both top folds out which doubles work area.
Image Notes1. Piano hinge supports and aligns top.2. Sturdy hinges ensure stability.
Image Notes1. Shelves are easily rearranged depending on contents.2. Wooden door stops.3. Wooden door stop.
Step 2: Design - The StandGiven that the deign of the box would probably not allow it to collapse with equipment inside, the stand had to fold down.
1. I used door hinges with removable pins to allow the 2 halves of the stand to attach and detach to each other.2. Sections that were removed from each side to make the stand lighter were reused for fold down shelves.3. The back cut out had movable legs attached to rest across the horizontal supports.4. Supports for a free standing beach umbrella were added for sun shading.5. The inside dimensions of the stand fit the outside dimensions of the box so that the box nests inside the stand against the stops.
Image Notes1. Here's the stand folded flat.
Image Notes1. Here's a fold up shelf I added that covers the front cutout.
Image Notes1. Here's one of the two halves stand up. Notice the rear cutout with legsattached. The hinges holding these sections together do not have removablepins.
Image Notes1. Here's a fold out leg that supports the drop down cutout.2. Notice the back cutout is held in place by small wooden scraps that pivot torelease it.
Image Notes1. Here's the two halves placed next to each other as they should be ready toattach.
Image Notes1. The chuck box rests against these cleats while it's on the stand. They are3/4" from the top to allow the box doors to open.
Image Notes1. Align the hinges and insert the pin to hold the two halves together.
Image Notes1. Here's the pin inserted locking the stand together.
Step 3: Building - The BoxTop, sides, divider, and bottom: 3/4" Swedish plywood.Back and internal adjustable shelving: 1/8" tempered Masonite board.Doors: 3/4" plywood frame, 1/8" Luan mahogany skin, closet door hinges.Handles: recessed road case hinges (1/2" of side had to be routed out so the handle fit flush)Top fold out counter: 3/4" Swedish plywood, piano hinges recessed.
-Take care to measure everything carefully! Measure twice, cut once.-The box has1-1/2" screws were driven through the top and bottom to hold the sides. I used bar clamps to hold everything during assembly. There was no glue used onthis project.-Prefit the doors before assembling the box. The doors should be made a little bit shorter than the opening so they will swing out easily. I used small pieces of scrap pinefor the door latches and stop.-I cut extra slots on the inside of the box to maximize adjustability of the shelves for the future should the contents change,-The finish is natural pine with 2 coats of poly urethane.
Image Notes1. These are spring loaded, recessed road case handles. I had to router out someof the side to get it ti sit flush but you can use what ever kind you like.
Image Notes1. Here's the upper umbrella bracket. It attaches with bolts to hidden crownnuts inside the case.
Image Notes1. I made these easy to turn with a wing nut and a standard nut, saves yourfingers. No wrench required.
Step 4: Building - The StandSides: 3/4" Swedish plywood. Cutouts removed to reduce weight.Hinges: Residential door hinges with removable pins. The original pins were replaced on 2 sets with large framing nails for easier assembly.Fold Out Shelves: Cutouts were reused and mounted with dowel pins as hidden hinges. Fold out supports added.Umbrella Stand: Scrap plywood with 1'1/2" pipe clamp. Top bracket is removable and attaches with small bolts and hidden crown nuts.
-Assemble 1 short and 1 long side together and leave them that way. Store them folded flat and secure the removable pins in the box for safe keeping.-You can mark the pieces for easy assembly like top/front.
Step 6: Measured DrawingHere's the measured drawing. You can alter any and all dimensions to suite your own taste. The measurements shown on this drawing are estimates and may differslightly from the finished projects. I did not include all of the detail for the fold out shelves and support legs so I'm sure you can come up with your own measurements.
Enjoy!!
Let me know what you think in the comments and thanks to any of you who happen send me a badge.
The Toolman
File Downloads
Chuck Box and Stand Drawing.pdf (59 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Chuck Box and Stand Drawing.pdf']
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Comments
1 comments Add Comment
Goldenlace710 says: Aug 1, 2012. 1:55 AM REPLYI like it, the only thing I can think to add at the moment is a set of door/shelves to the back. This will add support to the fold out top, add more storage space,and allow you to make the top a little wider for extra work space. You of course can keep the flat back panel that is already there, just add two swing boxstyle doors (Like on the front) on the rear and widen the top. Great pics btw. :)