Chronicle_Sept12.pdf

Colour ChronicleA Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publicationfor Textile, Leather and Paper

33rd year of publication

Number 3 | 2012

2 colour chronicle 3 | 2012

colour chronicle 3 | 2012

ContentsTextile 3

Pekoflam ECO/SYN Leonil D-Air Foron Vermillion S-WF Soil & Stain Release Drimaren HF Reactive Dyes

Paper 12 Stronger Colors with Cartafix

Leather 18 Clariant Supports Innovations in Sustainability

Gleanings from press 21

colour chronicle 3 | 2012 3

Bedding & Nightwear

Public Transport

Military

Hospitals / Public Buildings

Automotive Interiors

Home furnishings

Protective wear / Work wear

Construction

textile

Pekoflam ECO/SYNA new generation of flame retardants

Market segments for flame retardant textiles

The use of fl ame retardants is generally required where fi re is a safety hazard of high concern and where strict regulations need to be matched to protect human lives.

Common finishing technology for wash durable cottonAmmonia curing process

Exclusive technology for > 30 years X-linkage on fabric with NH3 for highest durability

with high alkaline resistance, applicable for work wear, home textiles, garments, night-wear, T-shirts etc., incl. PES / CEL blends, and at high dosage for lower fabric weights, but requires excessive washes to remove high level of formaldehyde.

Reactive process, acid catalyzed

Industrial state of the art since > 40 years Requires resins in combination with catalytic acid

to achieve pH 2, and results in signifi cantly reduced tensile strength, therefore limited to medium to heavier weight fabrics, and selected dyes. Reliably suitable only for cotton blends with 15% synthetic fi ber contents.

Finishing technology for wash durable cottonPros and cons of established processes Organic phosphorus-urea preconden-

sates for ammonia curing process on blends with more than 20% synthetic fi ber content, for example our Pekofl am DCB or similar reference products.9 Excellent wash durability and

performance even on blends with more than 20% synthetic fi ber content.

8 Requires special equipment.8 Formaldehyde emissions in pro-

cessing require extensive washes.

Reactive organic phosphonates used for cotton, as our Pekofl am DPN or comparable products from other fl ame retardant chemicals suppliers.9 Easy to apply on existing processing

lines in textile mills.8 High level of stenter emissions

frequently requires intense cleaning cycles.

8 High impact on tensile strength limits fabric selection.

8 Formaldehyde emissions on treated materials restrict its use for certain consumer markets.

Novel technology for finishing of cotton and synthetic blends New Pekoflam ECO/SYN - Confidence

in protection Suitable application segments and

related fi ber compositions. Home textiles (CO-LI) Tents & tarpaulins (CO-CO/PES) Protective & military wear

(CO / PA-CO / PES) Nightwear (CO-CL)


textile

Technical advantages Processing on common fi nishing

lines. Suitable for cotton and selected

natural and regenerated cellulosic fi bres as well as blends with synthetics.

Very low impact on fabric strength allowing wider range of fabric selection and end-uses.

Safer processing due to absence of formaldehyde emissions.

No oily deposit formation in stenter compartments, as easily removable deposits are formed.

No bad smell formation as observed with established reactive phosphonate chemistry.

Technological tests*:After 100 x 60C washed Recipes ECO DPN DCBPhosphorus 2.3 0.4 1.9Nitrogen 2.3 0.6 1.3

Flammability test according to DIN 15025(Ignition time 12s, vertical test, surface flaming, two specimens tested in each direction)After 100 x 60C washed Recipes ECO DPN DCBburning duration [s] 0 35 0glow time [s] 0 0 0 increase of glow [yes / no] No No Nohole arised [cm / no] No No Noburning / melting drops No No Nonumber of drops 0 0 0 flame reached the top and margins [yes/no] No Yes NoIndex 3 0 3(* done by Clariant lab)

Novel technology for home textiles Pekofl am ECO/SYN liq.

FR test* according to BS5852 source 5 on a 260 gsm cotton interlining fabric: Untreated fabric burns for more

than 120s, whereas treated

Untreated, after 15s Untreated, after 30s Treated, after 60s

Benefits of novel finishing technology Clariants concept for sustainable

protection: SUSTAINABILITY: Suitable for

renewable fi ber materials. PROTECTION: Safe handling and

low environmental footprint. ECOLOGY: No additional

chemical consumption in rinsing and no fabric neutralization needed.

FLEXIBILITY: High strength retention enlarges material selection pool.

ECONOMY: Cost competitive to established concepts.

Traditional concepts8 High formaldehyde emission levels.8 Limitations in processing.8 Limitations in fi ber and weight

selection.New concept 9 No formaldehyde emissions.9 High fl exibility in equipment selection.9 Broader application window allowing

solutions other than cotton-based only.

Novel technology for protective apparel Comparison Pekofl am ECO/SYN Pekofl am DPN

Pekofl am DCB FR test according to EN15025 on a royal blue 290 gsm

cotton protective wear fabric: DPN treated fabric fails test after 100 domestic

laundries, as fl ames reach upper mark within 20 seconds, and material is completely charred. Comparison material treated with our new technology does not even ignite during contact with the gas burner fl ame, comparable to the ammonia cured fabric treated with DCB.

material self-extinguishes after roughly two minutes without progressive fl aming nor any major mass loss observed.


textile

Characteristics It has excellent de-aerating property

and thereby facilitates penetration of processing bath ingredients into diffi cult to penetrate cellulosic goods.

De-aerating Power ref - ref + 2 gpl 2 gpl 2 gpl 2 gpl time/s iso-propyl water Leonil D- Antimussol Antimussol Leonil EHC alcohol Air liq UDF liq HTS liq liq conc 0 232 232 232 232 232 232 10 170 232 196 228 228 177 20 170 230 189 225 222 174 30 170 230 186 224 219 173 60 170 230 183 221 213 172 90 170 230 182 219 209 172 120 170 229 181 218 206 172Total air in system : 232 - 170 = 62 in % 100% 5% 82% 23% 42% 97%Remark: Iso-propyl alcohol is taken here as a reference system and considered to replace maximum air (de-aeration power)

Leonil D-AirNew De-aerating Agent

Wetting Property by Anchor Method (Alkaline Conditions NaOH 15 gpl)

1

10

100

1000

0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3

Wet

ting

time

(sec

onds

)

Concentration of wetting agent (g/l)

Leonil D-AIR liq Competition product ACompetition product B Competition product C

Defoaming power under alkaline conditions (Reactive Dyeing)

Liquor Stability with Sensitive Reactive Dyes 8 g/l Drimaren Turquoise K-2B x g/l Product80 g/l Glauber Salt5 g/l Soda Ash2 ml/l NaOH 405g/l200 ml - 60 min / 40CThen fi lter the solution through S & S fi lter Paper N 589/2 under vaccum suction

It has additional power of strong wetting and foam-suppression capacity.

Applicable in neutral, acidic and alkaline baths.

Does not have retarding effect and does not disturb solubility of dyes.

Prevents vat skinning and smears when dyeing with vat and sulphur dyes

It is silicone oil free.

Clariant has now developed two new dyestuffs to further consolidate this range.

Foron Vermillion S-WF

0.09% 0.27% 0.82% 2.46%

Foron Atlantic Blue S-WF

0.17% 0.52% 1.55% 4.65%

textile

Soil & Stain ReleaseIncreasing Customer Demands

Todays textile market has become highly competitive and is witnessing growing consumer awareness about quality. Under such conditions, products have to fulfi ll the most demanding requirements. In particular, end-customers are expecting constant innovation with features such as wash and wear, easy care and soft touch (with e.g. micro-fi ber articles), together of course with vibrant and resistant colors.

With the Foron S-WF dyestuffs, an evolution of the Foron S-type disperse dyes (pioneered by Clariant in the 1950s when still operating under the former Sandoz name), we do not only meet these requirements, but today can offer a conclusive range of dyestuffs that are able to cover the full scope of the most fashionable shades. Foron S-WF grades, with their market leading color fastness levels and highest sublimation fastness, enhance todays textile products in the apparel, workwear and sportswear segments, whilst giving textile producers a

Foron S-WF

Foron Orange S-WF

Foron Scarlet S-WF

Foron Red S-WF

Foron Rubine S-WF

Foron Violet S-WF

Foron Turquoise S-WF

Foron Cyanine S-WF

Foron Blue S-WF

Foron Dark Blue S-WF

Foron Navy S-WF

Foron Carbon S-WF

Foron Black S-WF

state-of-the-art process with an improved environmental profi le.

The market-leading color consistency of Foron S-WF dyes enables a stable shade under different light sources, e.g. D65, CWF TL84 and Tungsten, minimizing metamerism issues.

The Foron S-WF dye range covers a wide range of fashionable shades from yellows, oranges and reds, to blues, greens and navies, to blacks. Present range includes below elements Foron Brilliant Yellow S-WF

Foron Golden Yellow S-WF


In various activities such as sports, work or daily life, our clothing not only often faces expected but also unexpected situations. Soil, oil, food or liquids might come into contact with our apparel, leaving stains which are often hard to remove or non- removable.

At the same time consumers demand for protection and cleaning properties are constantly increasing. Therefore the trend towards soil repellent- and stain release- impregnation is growing, not least to avoid time consuming and costly cleaning and to ensure easy care and long life for all kind of fabrics.

Effect Labels When customers are looking for clothes they can easily judge the color and the shape but not all their properties. Therefore, it is absolutely vital to communicate functional effects such as water repellence, soil release, etc., which are not easy to

see. These properties add value to the garments and are therefore a good selling proposition. This is why Clariant provides you with effect labels to help the customer recognize properties that are not visible at fi rst sight. On the following pages, see how our solutions work for you!

textile

Performance benefits Excellent oil repellency. Dramatically improves stain release

during laundering. Reduces the fabrics absorption of soil

and stain marks. Allows fabric to remain breathable. High durability of all effects. Mainly engineered for cellulosic

material. Easy cleaning with no distress for

sensitive fabrics. Does not change the textile handle. Wash and wear: stable together with

glyoxal resins such as Arkofi x ELF liq c, Arkofi x NES liq.

Environmental and safety benefits Preferred Technology as it is based on

C6 chemistry. Free of PFOS (perfl uorooctanyl

sulfonate) and PFOA (perfl uorooctanoic acid).

Resources: saves energy and water. Less frequent laundering due to natural,

moderate and highly durable repellency effect.

Low temperature laundering with highest quality of soil & stain release effect.

Extended lifecycles for textile products. Safe and non-hazardous compounds

with regards to consumer safety.

Consumer Benefits & Environmental BenefitsNuva N4547 liq State of the Art Protection for Garments and Fabrics

Bedding

Upholstery

Outdoor Upholstery

Casual Wear

Table Cloths

Medical

Kids Wear

Work & Protective Wear

Sports Wear


Sustainable Textile Protection for all Market RequirementsNuva N-SeriesClariants Nuva products fulfi ll various state of the art demands concerning protection and care. These effects add innovative value to your textiles.


textile

Nuva N4547 liq State of the Art Protection for Garments and Fabrics Nuva N4547 liq provides excellent passive protection fi nishing for cellulosic fi bers and fi ts nicely into a wash and wear concept. The newly designed soil & stain release fi nish shows a natural moderate repellence effect against water, soil and stains, an excellent oil repellency and a very good air permeability effect. But it out-performs when stain and soil has been rubbed on or fi nds its way into the fi ber through an immediate release of it during laundering.

Furthermore, with Nuva N4547 liq, additional features can be added because the product shows the highest compatibility which results in a multifunctional fi nish.

Tailor made Solutions for your Needs your preferred TechnologyNuva N-SeriesClariant is a pioneer and an expert for innovative lifestyle garments and was one of the fi rst to develop and improve the fl uorobased fi nishes in textile. We focus on the most effective, innovative and sustainable products and processes and care for consumer demands and our environment through responsible use of our earths resources.

5

4

3

2

1

Soil

Rele

ase

Hydrophilic Hydrophobic

Nuva N4118

HydrophilicSoil Release

Nuva N4547

ClassicalSoil Release

Nuva N2114Nuva N2155

Classicalhydro/oleophobic

Natural moderate repelling Very good repelling effect of: Very good effect of:effect of:Water Oil Air permeability

Stains are removed faster and easier during laundering!

Unfinished fabric

Fabric finished with Nuva N4547 liq

A drop of oil spilled onto After pressing the oil drop After 1 home launderingthe fabric into the fabric

Soil Release test (according to AATCC 130) done with dirty motor oil.

Passive ProtectionNuva N4547 liq: Designed for passive protection and therefore fi ts nicely into a wash and wear concept for cellulosic based textiles. Besides the fact that high oil repellence can be archived, the product shows highest compatibility which results in a multifunctional fi nish.

Nuva N4118 liq: Fits into the current comfort requirement for cotton based textile materials used close to the skin. Besides its soil release behaviour, the fi nish shows good absorbency and can therefore be used as highly comfortable fi nish for active wear or shirting material.

Active ProtectionNuva N2114 liq: State of the art repellent product with key performance on cotton and polyamide. Highly effi cient with the focus on outstanding durability.

Nuva N2155 liq: Nonionic repellent product designed for the technical application fi eld. High compatibility in combination with so far unmet performance. The LTC profi le (low temperature curing) allows treatments for sensitive areas.

Mainly recommended for synthetic materials


textile

Drimaren HF reactive dyesMeeting the requirements of the continuous dyer

Concepts behind Drimaren HF/HF-CD dyes: Innovation Performance Sustainability Adaptability Reliability

Main technical advantages Suitable for all continuous dyeing

processes. Very high fi xation values. Minimum amount of color passed into

the effl uent. Homogeneous substantivity of the

Drimaren HF-CD ternary. Low initial tailing will be on-tone.

Good diffusion and levelling properties Excellent solubility. Very high pad liquor stability (high

alkaline stability). Similar reactivity for rapid fi xation. Shade unaffected by prolonged fi xation

times: High alkaline stability of the dye-fi ber bond.

Excellent washing off properties. Meet modern fastness requirements.

Continuous dyeingDrimaren HF reactive dyes are recommended for dyeing cellulosic fabrics and their blends by all continuous dyeing processes: Pad batch. Pad dry pad steam.

Drimaren Golden Yellow HF-CD

Drimaren Navy HF-GN

Drimaren Red HF-3B

Drimaren Br. Yellow HF-RL

Positioning of Drimaren HF - Focus products for continuous dyeing

High lightfast pale to medium shades

Golden Yellow HF-CD

Yellow HF-CD

Red HF-CD

Aquamarine HF-CD

Brilliant green, blue and turquoise shades

Brilliant Yellow HF-RL

Green HF-5BL

Aquamarine HF-CD

Royal Blue HF-CD

Medium to deep shades

Golden Yellow HF-CD

Red HF-3B

Dark Red HF-CD

Aquamarine HF-CD

Dark Blue HF-CD

Navy HF-GN

Navy HF-B

Pad dry thermofi x. Pad wet steam. Pad moist. SWIFT process for PES/CEL (pad dry

thermosol pad steam).

High fl exibility and effective utilization of mill capacity. Current range

Brill. Yellow HF-RL

Golden Yellow HF-CD

Golden Yellow HF-CD

Scarlet HF-3G

Red HF-CD

Red HF-3B

Dark Red HF-CD

Aquamarine HF-CD

Blue HF-RL

Dark Blue HF-CD

Royal Blue HF-CD

Navy HF-GN

Navy HF-B

Green HF-5BL

Innovation for continuous dyeing

Drimaren Aquamarine HF-CD

Drimaren Dark Blue HF-CD


textile

Orange and scarlet shades

Golden Yellow HF-CD

Scarlet HF-3G

Red HF-3B

What are the main problems faced by the continuous dyer? Shade transfer from lab to production. Shade reproducibility from batch to

batch in production. Meeting modern retailer and brand

house fastness requirements.

Shade reproducibility from batch to batch in production.What are the main issues faced by the continuous dyer? Fabric appearance, penetration and

levelling. Dyestuff solubility. Face to back shade variation (emerized

fabrics). Shade continuity along the length and

width of the fabric (tailing/listing). Dyestuff migration during pre-drying. Dyestuff stability to alkaline hydrolysis. Washing off and wet fastness. Photochromism. Fastness properties of the individual

dyestuff.

Improving fabric appearance, penetration and levelling with Drimaren HF dyes.Dyestuffs with high diffusion are essential for: Tightly woven fabrics. Fabrics constructed from high twist

yarns. Mercerized fabrics. Regenerated cellulose, linen and

cellulosic blends (CO:CV, CO:FL).

Exchange Phase 1 > Diffusion & Desorption Phase > Exchange Phase 2

Emerized fabrics (to improve face to back shade difference).

Dyestuff stability to alkaline hydrolysisWhat can be done to minimize alkaline hydrolysis? Automatic liquor dosing systems (ratio

4:1). Low volume economizer trough (fast

pad liquor turnover time). Increase the amount of sodium silicate

in the pad batch process (70 ml/l / 38B).

Control of the fi xation time and temperature.

Control of the washing off conditions (mono VS dyes sensitive to alkaline washing).

Cooling cylinders are used to cool and level out the fabric temperature before padding.

Cooling water jackets around the pad trough are used to maintain the desired pad liquor temperature.

Process water cooling systems for preparation of the dye and alkali solutions.

Use reactive dyestuffs with high alkaline stability.

Washing off reactive dyesExcellent wash and wet fastness properties can only be achieved by complete removal of the hydrolyzed dye, alkali and auxiliary chemicals during a washing off process.

Very high fixation values.

A high level of fi xation is essential for good shade reproducibility, easier washing out of the unfi xed dye and to minimize the amount of color that passes into the effl uent.

Brill. Yellow HF-RL .................. 96%

Golden Yellow HF-CD ............... 96%

Yellow HF-CD ............................. 92%

Red HF-CD ................................. 90%

Red HF-3B .................................. 97%

Dark Red HF-CD ........................ 98%

Aquamarine HF-CD .................. 90%

Blue HF-RL ................................. 90%

Dark Blue HF-CD ....................... 93%

Royal Blue HF-CD ..................... 90%

Navy HF-GN ............................... 95%

Navy HF-B .................................. 97%

title


As new challenges emerge, carpets must meet steadily rising requirements at home, in the office, in

public areas, hotels, airplanes and cars. Carpets and textile ground coverings must fulfill technical re-

quirements such as soil and water repellence or wear-resistance while also meeting the demands of color,

design and comfort. This is where Clariant can help you. We are committed to developing products for

individualized carpet applications that comply with international regulatory standards. Our innovative

products and services, long lasting experience and technical know-how play a key role in manufac-

turing and treating, from spinning and dyeing to finishing. Clariant is close to you. Any time. Any place.

Clariant Your partner for individual carpet procedures.

Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane (W) 400 607. www.clariant.in

What do you need?

Who helped to make my favorite carpet so comfortable?


paper

Clariant Your Fixative Specialist

There is no universal fi xative to solve all challenges in the paper coloration process, so Clariant has developed the Cartafi x range to offer a specialized product for every fi xation problem. Where deep and brilliant shades are required, fastness properties have to be improved, food contact is needed or the backwater has to be exactly controlled, the Cartafi x range is the right choice.Cartafi x a wide variety of different fi xatives for various application areas:

Stronger Colors with Cartafix

For every dye or shade fixation problem, there is a Cartafix solution by Clariant.

Clariants extensive paper dye fixatives range covers several chemistry families that are suitable for many applications.

Increasing Fixative

Direct Yellow 137 Cartasol Yellow 2GFN liq.

Influence of Fixatives on Shade

Coagulates for fresh and waste water clarifi cation

To discover more about the interactions between parameters during dyeing and fi xation, Clariant has conducted an extensive dye fi xation study. Different types of dyes and fi xatives were applied to paper at different addition levels. To compare the recipes and establish the best solutions, more than 6,500 data points (dyeing strength, shade drift, light fastness, backwater rate, bleed fastness, for example) were collected and analyzed. With this experience and knowledge, Clariant offers the best solutions for each and every fi xative challenge.

Cartafix Three categories of dye fixativesEpichlorohydrin-based chemistry: e.g., Cartafi x F liq., Cartafi x FF liq. Broad application possibilities: suitable

for almost all anionic dyes. Formaldehyde free. Highly effi cient. Modest change of zeta potential on the fi bers.

Food contact compliance (BfR XXVI, FDA).

Best fi xative for Cartasol Turquoise FRL liq. (pre-fi xation required).

Dicyandiamide-based chemistry: e.g., Cartafi x WE liq., Cartafi x SWE liq.

Fixation for all kind of anionic dyes and pigments

Inkjet-fi xatives for coating & size-press formulations

Fixatives for anionic trash - and deposit control to improve drainage, fi nes & fi ller retention Charge control Improved retention Better runnability Pitch control Fixation of stickies

Modest shade-drift Suitable application for brilliant

shades Products with and without

formaldehyde Food contact compliance Good light fastness properties Very effi cient for waste water

treatment.

Poly-DADMAC-based: e.g., Cartafi x VXD liq., Cartafi x VXL liq. Brilliant shades with the yellow range. No strong shade drift. Good fastness properties (alcohol

fastness / tissue).Formaldehyde free for the full range of our fi xatives and their respective advantages, limitations and application areas.

Direct Red 239 Cartasol Red 2GFN liq.

Direct Blue Metal-free Cartasol Blue 3R-EU liq.

Direct Blue Metal-containing Cartasol Blue GDF liq. New

Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq. Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq. Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq. Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq.

paper

Influence of Fixatives on BackwaterProperties, backwater related

Properties, shade related Cartafix F Cartafix WE Cartafix VXD

Application Suitable for fixing of Suitable for fixing of Suitable for fixing of almost all anionic dyes almost all anionic dyes a broad range of anionic dyes Shade Most shades turn Most shades stay stable Most shades stay stable redder and duller (dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent) Brightness Some shades turn duller Most shades stay stable Most shades stay stable (dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent)

CIE L*a*b*-Color space, shade development with fixativeDirect Red 239 - Cartasol Red 2GFN liq.

Direct Blue Metal-free - Cartasol Blue 3R-EU liq. Direct Blue Metal-containing - Cartasol Blue GDF liq. New

{ Unfixed dyeing in standard depth Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix F liq.

Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix WE liq............... Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix VXD liq.

Direct Yellow 137 - Cartasol Yellow 2GFN liq.82

81

80

79

78

77

76

75

74

73

72

71

70

a*-value

b*-v

alue

10 1 1 12 1 3 14 1 5 16 1 7 18 1 9 20 2 1 22

25

24

23

22

21

20

19

18

17

16

15

a*-value

b*-v

alue

46 4 7 48 4 9 50 5 1 52 5 3 54 5 5 56

-22

-23

-24

-25

-26

-27

-28

-29

-30

-31

-32

a*-value

b*-v

alue

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 1 3-17

-18

-19

-20

-21

-22

-23

-24

-25

-26

-27

a*-value

b*-v

alue

-12 -11 -10 -9 - 8 -7 - 6 -5 - 4 -3 - 2

Cartafix F Cartafix WE Cartafix VXD

Effect Gives clear backwater on Gives clear backwater Gives clear backwater almost all anionic dyes on a broad range of on a broad range of anionic dyes anionic dyesEfficiency Clears backwater Clears backwater Clears the backwater efficiently at efficiently at low dosage. in a specific low dosage Good for waste water addition range treatmentOverdosage Backwater stays Backwater rating Backwater will clear for a long time gradually worsens worsen if overdosed



paperInfluence of Fixatives on BackwaterBackwater samples with Cartafix WE.

unfixed | increasing fixative




Direct Yellow 137 Cartasol Yellow 2GFN liq.

Direct Red 239 Cartasol Red 2GFN liq.

Direct Blue Metal-free Cartasol Blue 3R-EU liq.

Direct Blue Metal-containing Cartasol Blue GDF liq.

Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix F liq. Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix WE liq. ......... Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix VXD liq.

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixative

Gre

y sc

ale

ratin

g

0%

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixativeG

rey

scal

e ra

ting

0%

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixative

Gre

y sc

ale

ratin

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0%

5.0

4.5

4.0

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3.0

2.5

2.0

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Increasing fixative

Gre

y sc

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0%


Influence of Fixatives on the Light FastnessLight fastness samples with Cartafix F.

Direct Yellow 137 Cartasol Yellow 2GFN liq. : Strong impact on light fastness

Direct Red 239 Cartasol Red 2GFN liq. : Medium impact on light fastness

Direct Blue Metal-free Cartasol Blue 3R-EU liq. : Low impact on light fastness

Direct Blue Metal-containing Cartasol Blue GDF liq. New : No impact on light fastness

Properties, light fastness related Cartafix F Cartafix WE Cartafix VXD

Non metallised dyes Moderate reduction of Minimal reduction Dyes are affected as usual for light fastness of light fastness traditional fixatives / moderate impactMetallised Dyes Some impact on light Minimal reduction Some impact on light fastness fastness - dye specific of light fastness - dye specificOverdosage No further light fastness No further light No further light fastness decrease fastness decrease decrease

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixative

Blu

e sc

ale

ratin

g

0%

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixative

Blu

e sc

ale

ratin

g

0%

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixative

Blu

e sc

ale

ratin

g

0%

5.0

4.5

4.0

3.5

3.0

2.5

2.0

1.5

1.0

Increasing fixative

Blu

e sc

ale

ratin

g

0%

Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix F liq. Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix WE liq. ......... Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix VXD liq.

paper

title


paper

Cartafix Range Overview

Paper Chemistry Function and Bleed Backwater Trash Comments Properties fastness control

Cartafix EPN Standard dye +++ ++ + Improves backwater fixative and bleedfastness

Cartafix FF EPN Standard dye fixative, +++ ++ + Improves backwater high solids version and bleedfastness

Cartafix WE DCDA Standard dye fixative +++ ++ + for brillant shades, can (< 0.1% formaldehyde) coagulate dyes in waste water

Cartafix SWE DCDA Special product ++ ++ 0 for brillant shades, can coagulate dyes in waste water

Cartafix E50 DCDA Special product, ++ ++ 0 for brillant shades, can Solvent-free dispersion. coagulate dyes in waste water Limited solubility (max. 3.0% at room temperature)

Cartafix VXD DADMAC Low molecular weight ++ +(+) + for brillant shades, can coagulate Poly-DADMAC dyes in waste water, for example in tissue dyeing (deep shades), good alcohol fastness, good runnability. May cause bad backwater if overdosed.

Cartafix VXL DADMAC Medium molecular ++ +(+) + or brillant shades, can coagulate weight dyes in waste water, for example Poly-DADMAC in tissue dyeing (deep shades), good alcohol fastness, good runnability. May cause bad backwater if overdosed.

Cartafix NTC EPN High molecular (+) +++ +++ Improves backwater weight fixative Anionic trash control

Cartafix CB EPN High molecular (+) +++ +++ Improves backwater weight fixative Anionic trash control

Cartafix KFN/ PAC Possibility to reduce + + +++ Improved retention and Cartafix LA costs; Alternative yield fixative (Cartafix LA to Al2 (SO4)3 mainly for pigment preparations)

This brochure regarding Clariants Cartafix range of cationic fixatives provides guidance regarding the products. Fixatives have different effect on shades depending on the chemistry of

the dye and the fixative. Changes in the dyeing system, such as furnish, pH, temperature, water hardness, contact time, process and sizing chemicals, and order of addition of dyes will not only influence the dyeing, but also the

fixation results. Each dyeing recipe has to be checked under customer conditions. Please contact your regional Clariant technologist for more information.

title

colour chronicle 3 | 2012 17What do you need?

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Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd, BU Paper Specialties, P.O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane 400 607, India. Tel: +91 22 2531 5392, Fax: +91 22 2531 5092, E-mail: [email protected], www.clariant.in

Whiter, brighter, yet at lower cost. Leucophor XL replaces traditional optical brightening agents and

shading colorants with new, proprietary formulations for size-press and coating that use up to 30%

less material for the same effect. Available in a variety of grades to match your whiteness require-

ments for both paper and board. Make your future a whiter shade of white with Leucophor XL.

Leucophor XL out of the blue, the ultimate white.

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leather

It has become apparent in recent years that the concept of sustainability means different things to different people.

The basic raw material of the leather industry can be considered sustainable in the sense that the husbandry of livestock from which the industry obtains its supplies as a byproduct can be relied upon to continue. It can be argued that no cattle, sheep, or pigs and many other species are being bred for the benefi t of the leather production chain. In world terms, there is a sustainable cycle.

As a leading international supplier of both chemicals and chemistry-based solutions to the leather sector, Clariant is very clear about how it views sustainability. Put simply, it is the development of innovative solutions to address the most relevant global trends while limiting the burden on people, the environment and resources.

In pursuance of these aims, the company has been introducing over many years, products that simplify the production of fi nished leather while at the same time meeting the demands of international, regional and local legislation. These initiatives have been applied throughout the tanning stages, including retanning and fi nishing.

Nowadays, the primary market requirements for any leather article is performance. This means it is necessary to improve the unique leather properties such as water vapour absorption and permeability, robustness and ductility, or the ability to deform under tensile stress, for footwear, its elegance and durability for upholstery leather, and softness and elegance for garments and leather goods.

On the other hand, consumers and legislation, demand more sustainable

aspects and expect the absence of any harmful substances in the fi nished leather. Unnecessary and negative headlines have already harmed the image of other materials and associated companies and industries.

The leather manufacturing industry and the tanneries have to follow these market requirements. But they also need a production process that is more resource-saving, less polluting and generating less waste; at the same time it must result in further improved functionality and durability of the leather goods. Better economies in production and easier

leather manufacturing processes should be designed to support the tanner in providing the highest quality standards that benefi t all. Balancing these sometimes almost contradictory customer and consumer demands, cannot be taken for granted. The environmental impact and aspects of economy have to be balanced, so that the individual tanner has the support and benefi t of innovative products or processes. This is the basic principle behind any of the developments initiated by Clariant.

We are pleased to announce the further strengthening of our wet end chemicals range with the introduction of the following products:

Clariant Supports Innovations in SustainabilitySustainability in Wet End with New Range of Retanning Agents

Tanicor RS-38 powder : Phenol based universal retanning agent

Tanicor RS-40 powder: Phenol based white retanning agent

Tergotan RE-5020 powder: Amino Resin based retanning agent


leatherTanicor RS-38 powder: Phenol based universal retanning agent Contains very low free formaldehyde

of < 50 ppm in the product Universal Retanning agents suitable for

all type of leather Very good light fastness and heat

resistance Very low free phenol Very clear, unloaded grain with good

resilience and mellowness Tight grain Full colors low bleaching Excellent compatibility with other

retanning agents

Tanicor RS-40 powder: Phenol based white retanning agent Contains very low free formaldehyde

of < 50 ppm in the product Special Retanning agents for white

leathers and light colors Excellent light fastness and heat

resistance Very low free phenol Tight grain High bleaching and whiteness effect Excellent compatibility with other

retanning agents Dye Levelness

Tergotan RE-5020 powder : Amino Resin based retanning agent Suitable for all type of leathers

excluding white Excellent grain tightness High fi lling action on empty parts of

the hides and skins Good light fastness and heat resistance Full colors low bleaching

SummaryDeveloping better solutions is always our target. Clariant is committed to generating genuine, sustainable added value. It will require the best possible balance between ecological, social and economic needs; the highest priorities are personal safety and environmentally sound processes and products. It remains the mission for the future.

With this new range of syntans, we offer the combined advantages of Compactness, Economical competitiveness, High performance and Reduced levels of free formaldehyde and free phenol compared to standard products.

Traditionally, solvent-based Nitrocellulose (NC) and Cellulose Acetate Butyrate (CAB) lacquers have been used in leather fi nishing. Today they have been largely substituted by aqueous top coats.Notwithstanding, there is a clear drive towards aqueous systems with low or no VOC and Clariant is at the forefront of this trend for sustainable solutions and systems. Besides reducing solvent in fi nishing top coats, it is also important to reduce or eliminate hazardous materials such as NMP or phthalates to support the concept of sustainability. In particular, NMP provided several positive effects in leather fi nishing, especially when the complete system is perhaps a little critical. For example, levelling can become more even, and a jet blackness can be improved.

NMP: Problems in Toxicity and VOCEnvironmental problems have driven NMP-free fi nishing systems, but there are also technical problems. These relate to the migration of solvents that remain in leathers after drying. Over time, and especially at raised temperatures, the mobility of small non fi xed solvent molecules can lead to diffusion into deeper layers of the leather. Other substances such as fat liquors, retanning agents or dyes that are located deep in the structure have a relatively low mobility. However, these substances may become quasi-dissolved in the solvents of

higher mobility. In this event they can be transported to surface of the leather.

Sustainable Elimination of NMP and VOC Reduction in Finishing SystemsThe ability to create more sustainable fi nishes took a quantum leap forward in 1992 when Clariant introduced water-based top when it eliminated NMP, and of course NEP, in its top coats specifi cally for automotive leathers. In 2001, Clariant developed a research project to replace NMP in all leather fi nishing products, not just those for the automotive sector. The fi rst step was to produce all polyurethane dispersions without using NMP. This was accomplished by intelligent process management and included variations of the polymer recipes to produce all binders with the same quality but without NMP, and in many cases with even less VOC. What does that mean for the manufacturer and the end user? Put simply, less emissions during production and manufacturing and a clear reduction of prohibited materials being exposed to consumers.

Nowadays all types of leather can be produced without the need of NMP, using Clariants Aqualen product range. Even automotive leather which has the highest requirements on fastness can be produced with a signifi cantly lower amount of VOC. An example of the latest innovation driving sustainability in leather fi nishing

forward, is the replacement of solvent based classical patent leather top coats by pure aqueous ones.

Clariants Aqualen Top APT shows very clearly the possibilities generated by todays technology. The gloss, feel, physical and general appearance of an aqueous patent leather imitation top coat without any NMP have never been so similar in matching classical solvent based systems.

Patent leather articles made with an Aqualen Top APT top coat can be either smooth and in a uniform shade, embossed or with an aqueous effect made with Aqualen Top SIL, which is also a pure aqueous intermediate effect topcoat generating a fully aqueous patent leather fi nishing system.

Sustainability in finishing with aqueous topcoat technology

New Central Customer Service E-mail ID

BU Leather Services of Clariant Chemicals (India) Ltd. has launched its new central customer service E-mail ID: [email protected].

The new central ID is an integral part of Clariants objective to ensure complete customer satisfaction. Clariants customers are requested to direct their any queries to this E-mail ID as a part of their regular contacts.

This will help us to avoid any delay in responding the customers even if one of the customer service team member is unable to attend the query.

The center will record and process all customer issues centrally and will resolve them quickly and efficiently.

What do you need?

With Melioderm dyestuffs, you get exactly the same shade and tone every time, right across the

color palette, whether today, tomorrow or years from now. And you will also be compliant with

all the relevant environmental and safety rules. Whether for shoes, furniture, fashion or high-tech

automotive, Melioderm is a costeffective top-performer. So choose Clariant, and choose the best.

Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, BU Leather Services, Kences Towers, 2nd Floor, 1 Ramakrishna Road, Tamil Nadu 600017, India. www.clariant.in

Be certain, be certified use Melioderm

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Will there be a bag and belt to match this color?


gleanings from press

Gujarat to come up with integrated textile policy to raise competitiveness

Gujarat would be coming up with an integrated textile policy soon and it will aim at strengthening the industrial sector that accounts for 23% of the states GDP.

While addressing the garment entrepreneurs at the 20th Gujarat Garment Manufacturers Associations National Garment Fair here, Modi stated that the state requires a policy, which has the potential to look beyond the cotton cultivators or spinners interest.

Moreover, the recommended policy would increase the competitiveness of the state and offer a level playing fi eld with the other textile and garment producing destinations in India.

He stated that the state is in need of a policy, which can emphasize beyond the individual interests of the cotton cultivators, ginners, or yarn and fabric makers. Modi said that it is time for Gujarat to adopt cluster approach for strengthening the local textile industry and also make it competitive at the international level.

Govt pins hopes to achieve textile export target of $ 40.5 bn in FY13

The government sees promising aspects of achieving the textile export target of $40.5 billion for the current fi nancial year (2012-13) regardless the slowdown in demand from major western markets such as the US and Europe.

After inaugurating 55th National Garment Fair here, Textiles Secretary,

Ms. Kiran Dhingra, said, We are hopeful of achieving the textile export target of $ 40.5 billion in current fi scal as compared to $ 33 billion in FY 12.

The Textile Ministry is concerned over the demand drop in major western markets like the US and Europe, but new markets like Latin America, Africa and Middle East have good potential.

After sops were announced in the Foreign Trade Policy (FTP), exporters have responded positively and based on it we have revised this years textiles exports target upwards from $ 38 billion to $ 40.5 billion, she added.

The segments like apparel, handicrafts and carpets are optimistic about exports performance this year.

Jindal Group plans ` 1,500 cr technical textile unit in Nashik

Manufacturing conglomerate Jindal Group has announced its plans to set up a ` 1,500 crore technical textile unit in Nashik district of north Maharashtra.

In the same development, a Letter of Intent (LoI) has been issued by the textile ministry after the Group offi cials met Mohammed Arif Naseem Khan, the Textile Minister, last week.

At present, the group is underway of acquiring land. The proposed unit will require nearly 100 acres of land and it will manufacture cloth related to automobile applications, sports, security, medical and fi re fi ghting equipment.

Primarily, technical textile products are used for their technical performance and functional properties.

Since the government announced a new textile policy a few months back,

investment proposals worth around ` 5,000 crore had been received.

Fongs buys German textile machinery firm Monforts

Hong Kong- listed Fongs Industries Co. Ltd. recently announced that it has acquired a 100 percent stake in A Monforts Textilemaschinen GmbH & Co. KG. (Monforts) from Germany-based L Possehl Co. & GmbH (Possehl). Monforts is based in the Western German city of Monchengladbach. The acquisition includes Monforts Austrian subsidiary Montex-Maschinenfabrik Ges.m.b.H with its machine production site in St. Stefan. The 50 percent stake in the Monforts Fongs Textile Machinery Co. Ltd., the jointly controlled entity between Fongs and Monforts Group, is also part of the transaction. In addition, Possehl has agreed to subscribe a 9.9 percent stake in a Fongs subsidiary, which directly holds Monforts and Monfongs.

Teijin to launch anti-sweat comfort polyester fabric

Teijin Fibers will launch the new fabric for all-season sportswear targeting the fall/winter 2013 and spring/summer 2014 seasons , as well as for casual wear and uniforms. The new polyester fabric has a three-layer structure consisting of an inner, fully hydrophobic layer of moisture-repellant polyester fi bers, a middle moisture-absorption layer and an outer moisture-diffusion layer.

Once sweat has been absorbed by the middle layer the inner hydrophobic layer keeps moisture from returning to the skin to prevent the wearer from becoming



chilled, and to prevent the fabric from sticking to the skin even when perspiring heavily. The capillary-type pump action of three-layer structure quickly absorbs and diffuses sweat to promote fast drying.

Chinese textile companies keep on setting up units in Gujarat

Chinas textile companies have evinced interest in setting up manufacturing units in Gujarat, a State Government offi cial said recently. Looking to partner with Gujarat-based companies, Chinese companies have also shown interest in investing in infrastructure projects, heavy engineering and equipment, renewable energy and the auto sector. Memorandums of understanding (MoUs) in this regard are expected to be linked during the next Vibrant Gujarat Summit in January 2013. This follows the November 2011 visit of the Gujarat Chief Minister Narendra Modi, to China.

Nilit cooling yarn verified in independent tests

Leading Israeli Nylon 6.6 producer Nilit announced recently that its innovative patent pending Nilit Breeze specialty yarn is available as a performance fi ber for sportswear, hosiery, underwear, shapewear, socks, outerwear and workwear. Available in specially textured and fl at nylon 6.6 yarns, NilitBreeze fabrics are cool wearers by almost one degree celcius when compared to fabrics knitted with standard fi bers. According to Nilit, independent testing was performed by the Centexbel Textile Research Center in Belgium and a copy of certifi cate is available upon request from Nilit. NilitBreeze ends the era of hot, uncomfortable active wear. The yarns cooling effect comes from a special cross-section, the insertion of an inorganic additive in the polymer itself and a unique texturing process, Nilit explained in a statement recently.

XTIO2 launches 100% anti-germ certified fabric

XTIO2 Active-Shield Fabric has reached the worlds highest antibacterial effi cacy rate of 100% proven by the worlds leading inspection, verifi cation, testing and certifi cation company SGS, based on the standardized AATCC100 test by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colourists.

XTIO2 is the only company in the world whose Tio2-nanocoating technology has received 100% effective anti-germ results on coated materials from SGS against dangerous E.coli and MRSA (s.aureus) bacteria. Tests were commissioned by cleancoating LLC (Philadelphia)

Indian govt initiates new survey of powerloom sector

The Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, has entrusted a new project titled Baseline survey of Powerloom Sector to AC Nielsen ORG MARG Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi.

The surveyors have been asked to complete their study in nine-months time.

They will gather information related to installed and working capacity of the powerlooms, the age of the machines, man power employed by powerloom units, and fi nancial and technology related details.

The information collected through the survey would be utilized in development planning and policy formulation by the Government.

New non-halogen based flame retardant adhesive coatings

Scapa, one of the leading custom adhesive coating and lamination companies worldwide, is proud to introduce new non-halogen based adhesive capabilities to address the growing need for chlorine and bromine formulation

alternatives for industrial applications.Non-halogen based adhesives are

environmentally friendly and offer textile manufacturer and converters a variety of benefi ts including: no hydrochloric by-products, lower smoke generation, ageing stability, low migration, non-weight gain and waterproofi ng.

Recent non-halogen adhesive application successes with military, law enforcement, aerospace, automotive, decorative fabric and foam manufacturers have shown broad range of uses and successfully maintained or increased UV stability, water resistance, and fi re retardant properties versus traditional halogen based adhesives.

Scapa offers its partners customized solutions and will work within product and industry spec to provide the optimal solution. Scapas onsite technical service and R&D teams utilised advanced laboratory equipment systems and implement tolerance specifi c testing procedures, including UL 94 vertical fl ame testing methods.

Scapa is a worldwide leading manufacturer of bonding products and adhesive components for applications in the electronics, healthcare, industrial and transportation markets.

Textile industry hails debt recast plan approval

The Indian textile industry has breathed a sign of relief with the Finance Ministry showing the green signal for the Textile Ministrys proposals on restructuring about ` 35,000 crore of the textile industries debt. Besides, the Textile secretary Ms. Kiran Dhingra has recently hinted at the proposal of the Government to continue with the Technology Upgradation Fund (TUF) Scheme. Ms. Kiran has conveyed to the industry that the Textile Ministry has proposed extension of the TUFS in the 12th Five year plan with an allocation of ` 158.86 billion. The restructured TUFS attaches



Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

www.clariant.in

Chief Editor: Prabhat Trivedi

Editorial Co-ordinator: Rajendra GodeConsulting Editor: Philips AbrahamEditorial Board: Tushar Choudhury U.S. Shashikeerthy Nirmal Punjabi

Feedback ?Send your suggestions/entries [email protected] Printed and Published by

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited

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greater importance to weaving, processing and value-added downstream segments of the textile producing industry.

The debt restructuring proposals included a two-year moratorium on repayment of the principal and converting some working capital loans to term loans. The textile industry has a debt of ` 55,000 crore and big losses. So far, 59 cases from the textile industry have been referred for corporate debt restructuring data and debt of ` 11,661 crore has been repackaged under the CDR norms.

According to the Textile Ministry 21 integrated textile parks have been proposed, in addition to 40 textile parks for which, the sums have already been earmarked. The 24 of these 40 textile parks are already operational, while another 12 are nearing completion.

It may be recalled that the textile industry has been going through one of the worst crisis in the last one year with high volatility hitting the cotton prices. Prices rose to a high of ` 62,000 a candy (356 kg) last year and now has declined to almost half this level at ` 33,000 a candy.

In 2010-11, the cotton yarn export was put on a ceiling of 720 million kg, as a result of which many spinners were struggling with huge inventories. The yarn glut caused huge losses and most of the spinners are not operating at full capacity. Cash crunch due to dearth of orders and lack of suffi cient working capital are threatening their very survival, say industry sources.

US $ 18 bn apparel export target within reach

India is expected to achieve US$ 18 billion (about ` 1,00,000 crore) apparel export

target set by the government for fi scal year 2012 13, accordingly to Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), the offi cial body of apparel exporters in India. The country exported garment worth US$ 11.162 billion (about ` 62,600 crore) in 2010 11, growing at a rate of 4.9 per cent year-on-year, against the target of US$ 12 billion (about ` 67,000 crore), as per the data with the Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics (DGCIS). Last fi scal, compared to its set target of US$ 14 billion (about ` 78,500 crore), India managed to export clothing items worth US$ 13.699 billion (about ` 76,850 crore) growing at a rate of 22.7 per cent year-on-year.

According to AEPC, reasons like favourable dollar rate, incentive announced in the Annual Supplement to Foreign Trade Policy (FTP) 2009-10, number of incentives by way of Focused Product & Market Scheme (FMS) and exporters efforts to explore new export territories like Japan, Australia, South Africa and countries in Latin America have been instrumental in pushing the segment towards meeting the targets. And it is optimistic about achieving export target of US $ 18 billion set by the government for the current fi scal year.

ITMA 2015 to Drive Sustainable Innovations

ITMA, the worlds most established textile and garment machinery exhibition, will put the spotlight on innovations that promote sustainability for its 17th presentation in Milan, Italy, in 2015. A trendsetting showcase of exciting innovations since 1951, the theme chosen for the 2015 edition is Master the Art of

Sustainable Innovation.Mr. Stephan R Combes, President

of CEMATEX, which owns the show, said: The drive towards sustainability is increasingly integrated with enlightened business practices. The keyword here is sustainability, and we hope industry members will join us in this responsible mission to promote more eco-friendly solutions and practices for the entire textile and garment value chain.

ITMA 2015 will continue to be an industry leading platform for the textile and garment community. It is expected to span over 1,00,000 sqm of net exhibit space and attract over 1,400 exhibitors.

Ludhiana textile hub to get CETP under TUFS

Union Minister for Commerce, Industries and Textiles, Shri Anand Sharma held meetings with Chief Minister of Punjab, Shri Prakash Singh Badal and Chief Minister of Haryana, Shri Bhupinder Singh Hooda to discuss the industrial projects in the states. Shri Sharma was accompanied by a high level delegation from the Ministry of Commerce & Industry.

In the meeting with Punjab Chief Minister, Shri Sharma announced that Punjab would be connected to the Western Industrial Corridor (Delhi-Mumbai Industrial Corridor). The Minister announced that initially Ludhiana will be linked to Rewari to provide this connectivity and there was in principal agreement between the Central Government and the Punjab Government for extending this connectivity to Amritsar, for which the feasibility will have to be worked out.

Meet an innovative, sustainable trend-setter: Advanced Denim technology.

Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited, Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane (W) 400 607. www.clariant.in

What do you need?

Is it necessary to choose between sustainability, quality and fashion?

ruo htiW .slaedi ruoy tuo yrrac dna tnemtaert tnairalC morf tcepxe duoy ytilauq-hgih eht fo mined ekaM

proprietary Pad/Sizing-OX process, water use is cut by over 90% and energy by nearly one-third. Cotton

waste falls by an order of magnitude around 87%, while waste water is completely eliminated. Clariants

Advanced Denim technology innovative trends and the responsible use of the Earths resources.

Chronicle_Sept12.pdf

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high impact

fabric strength

high level of formaldehyde

synthetic fi ber contents

high dosage

finishing of cotton

related fi ber compositions

common finishing technology