Chester Society for Landscape History January 2011 Newsletter Number 48 Harvington Hall - read about it on page 8 Contents Chairman‟s Message 2 25 in 2011 Conference: A Tale of Three Houses 3 Landscape Discoveries 20 Down to the Wyre 7 in the North West The Year Ahead: Field Names Project 23 Lecture Programme 12 Member‟s Publications 24 Field Visits 16 Editor‟s Corner 24 Discovery Day 19
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Chester Society for Landscape History...Chester Society for Landscape History January 2011 Newsletter Number 48 Harvington Hall - read about it on page 8 Contents Chairman‟s Message
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Chester Society for Landscape History
January 2011 Newsletter
Number 48
Harvington Hall - read about it on page 8
Contents
Chairman‟s Message 2 25 in 2011 Conference:
A Tale of Three Houses 3 Landscape Discoveries 20
Down to the Wyre 7 in the North West
The Year Ahead: Field Names Project 23
Lecture Programme 12 Member‟s Publications 24
Field Visits 16 Editor‟s Corner 24
Discovery Day 19
Wow – what a busy year 2010 has been
„behind the scenes‟ for CSLH! To this
end I must thank my fellow committee
members for all their efforts during the
past twelve months. The agenda for our monthly committee meetings continues
to grow as our Society embarks upon
new projects, whilst we continue to
endeavour to provide an interesting and
varied programme of lectures and field
visits.
2011 will undoubtedly be an even busier
year for the Society as we celebrate our
25th anniversary. Although you will
already be aware of our forthcoming
conference on Saturday 10th September, this edition of our newsletter contains
more detailed information on the
presenters and their talks (see pages 20-
22). Conference bookings can now be
made, and as our venue has a limited
capacity, I would urge you to book your
place early for what promises to be a
memorable day. A booking form is
either attached or included with this
newsletter.
Another new event for 2011 is our
„Discovery Day‟ offering members the
chance to sharpen their landscape
detecting skills. You can find out more
about this on page 19.
Yet another first for 2011 is that this
edition of our newsletter is being
received by many of our members on-
line. This „environmentally friendly‟
option will help the Society continue to
offer great value for money by cutting
its stationery, printing and postage costs
at a time of rising prices. Booking
forms for field trips and the conference can similarly be downloaded. However
paper copies will continue to be sent out
to members who do not have internet/
email access, or to those members who
have specifically requested them.
If you have your diary handy, pencil in
Monday 4th April 2011 when we shall
be holding our next social event - a
cheese and wine evening with a quiz
and auction. More details to follow.
Before closing I would like to ask if any
of you have a spare hour or two once a
month and would consider joining our
very vibrant committee. New ideas are
always welcome and I guarantee a few
laughs along the way. Just come and
have a chat with one of the committee
members if you are interested .
Finally, I would just like to wish you all
a very happy new year and I look forward to seeing you at our spring
lectures.
Sharon Varey
AGM
Just a reminder that our AGM will be
held on Monday 28th February 2011 at
7.15pm. Additional items for the
agenda should be forwarded to Mike
Page 2 Page 3
Message from the Chair
Page 3
On the high ground of the sandstone outcrop looking towards Thurstaston
Common there are two large stately mansions: Frankby Hall and Hillbark Hotel.
At one time these were the homes of the Royden family, Liverpool shipbuilders
who by the end of the nineteenth century were involved in ship ownership and
management.
In the seventeenth century the Royden family were carpenters in Caldy, but by the
turn of the eighteenth century Liverpool was a tempting place for tradesmen, for
the port was developing at an astonishing rate. In 1808, Thomas Royden moved to
Liverpool to seek his fortune and secured employment as a master carpenter with
Charles Grayson, a prominent shipbuilding firm. By 1818 Thomas had set up on
his own and was the founder of Thomas Royson and Sons, shipbuilders of
Liverpool.
Despite working in Liverpool, Thomas‟s roots lay in Caldy and Frankby. With the
growth of the townscape of Liverpool and Birkenhead during the first half of the
nineteenth century, it became fashionable for the new breed of wealthy businessmen to invest and reside in an impressive family seat and thus they built
substantial houses on the airy Wirral hills.
In 1801, Thomas‟s father, Joseph, had purchased some land on the former
Rathbone Estate from
Gwyllyn Lloyd Wardle.
Thomas decided to build
on the unspoilt remote
hilly land formerly
tenanted by his family and
farming relatives and gradually he secured
parcels of surrounding
land. On this land
Frankby Hall was erected
in 1847, a unique
sandstone structure, with
distinctive castellated
turrets. The Hall occupies
a commanding site
overlooking the village
A Tale of Three Houses: the Royden family estate mansions at Frankby on the Wirral
Frankby Hall
and a good part of the surrounding countryside. It seems likely that the materials
for the house would have come from within a few miles radius, possibly from the
quarries at Irby or Heswall. Perhaps this is why it looks like a natural outcrop,
something cast up from the undulations of the Wirral landscape in which it sits.
Thomas died at Frankby Hall in 1868 and his son Thomas Bland Royden was
encouraged to follow in his father‟s footsteps and enter politics. He rose to greater
heights, becoming Tory MP for Toxteth and a JP in 1874, and Lord Mayor of
Liverpool 1878-79. In 1905 he became a Baronet in recognition of his concerns for
marine insurance and the safety of ships at sea, and was an enthusiastic supporter
of the introduction of the Plimsoll Line. Sir Thomas Bland Royden died in 1917.
His eldest son Sir Thomas Royden, 2nd Baronet, became Chairman of the Cunard
Line, as well as sitting on the board of the Midland Bank and Shell Transport. He
also held the office of High Sheriff and became a Baron in his own right in 1944.
He was the last owner of Frankby Hall. In the early 1930s, he left Frankby to move
down south to retire to his wife‟s home in Hampshire. In 1933 he decided to sell the estate and offered the Hall and its 61 acre estate to Hoylake Urban District
Council for £8,000. They turned the offer down.
The estate was finally sold to Wallasey Corporation for £12,500 for use as a
cemetery. Wallasey was fast running out of land when they acquired the estate and
there were some misgivings about establishing a cemetery in another authority‟s
area six miles away. The Liverpool Daily Post did not think much of the idea and
made the point that: “Not only will it be difficult for relatives of the deceased to
visit but motor hearses will be required.” It took seven years to transform the
estate into a cemetery. Many of the trees had to be felled and the area grassed
over. The main part of the Hall itself was converted into two chapels - one Church of England and Non-Conformist, the other Roman Catholic - complete with tall
Gothic windows. The cemetery officially opened in 1940, with space for 36,000
graves.
Today the other stately home near to Frankby Hall is “Hillbark”, one of the sights
of Wirral. Built on top of Frankby Hill – albeit a low hill – with Thurstaston
Common rolling away beneath its windows, its view of the Dee estuary and the
Welsh hills is uninterrupted. This beautiful, black and white, half-timbered,
pseudo-Elizabethan mansion was heavily influenced in design by Little Moreton
Hall, near Congleton in south-east Cheshire. The house was built in 1891 for
Robert William Hudson the soap manufacturer. However, the house is not in its
original location for it was originally sited on Bidston Hill where it was known as „Bidston Court‟. This was the home of Sir Thomas Royden‟s younger brother, Sir
Ernest Bland Royden, 3rd Baronet who purchased the house in 1921.
Page 4 Page 5
Page 5
On the death of Lady Royden‟s mother,
the original “Hillbark” became the
property of Lady Royden. The couple
decided to move back to Frankby but
did not want to leave “Bidston Court”
so they decided to take their home with
them. As a result, the original sandstone
“Hillbark” mansion, believed to have been erected on the site of a late
seventeenth century house, was pulled
down in 1929 to make way for „Bidston
Court‟. Every brick, stone, slate and
timber beam was numbered and the
whole building was dismantled and
transported by road to its new site in
Royden Park where it was re-erected
within three years (1929-31). “Bidston
Court” was then renamed „Hillbark‟.
„Bidston Court‟ a „transplanted‟ mansion, later renamed „Hillbark‟
(image courtesy of I. & M. Boumphrey)
Photo of the original „Hillbark‟, built in 1870
(image courtesy of I. & M. Boumphrey)
Sir Ernest Bland Royden died in 1960. By this time the family business interests
had been transferred to the south of England. Sir Ernest‟s eldest son, Sir John
Ledward Royden‟s business was in London and his family home was in Battle,
East Sussex. The family had no further interests on Merseyside and therefore sold
the family home and the 250 acres of parkland to Hoylake Urban District Council. The council reopened the mansion as a care home for the elderly and the
surrounding grounds became a public park. Following the closure of the care home
in the 1990s, “Hillbark” was converted into a fully modernised hotel, whilst still
retaining much of its character both inside and out.
Bibliography:
I. & M. Boumphrey, Yesterday’s Wirral Pictorial History 1890 to 1953 (2000),
pp.74 & 80.
K. Burnley, The Illustrated Portrait of Wirral (1987).
N. F. Ellison, The Wirral Peninsula (1955).
J. Pearson, Wirral: an illustrated review (2000).
D. Randall, The Search of Ancient Wirral, (2003). M. W. Royden, „The Roydens of Frankby‟, The Wirral Journal, Vol 3 No 3, Aug.
(1986), pp.24-27.
Useful websites:
www.roydenhistory.co.uk
www.oldwirral.com
NB. “Bidston Court” attracted the attention of the German Crown Prince in 1911.
From plans and photographs he had a copy of the mansion erected at Potsdam and
called it “Cecilianhof” in honour of his wife Cecilia. Despite raids by the American
Air Force in April 1945, the mansion escaped damage.
Page 6
John Lowe
Christmas Hamper Raffle
Congratulations to Peter Ledsham who won the Christmas hamper
raffle at our November lecture. Ruth and John Milliken were the
runners-up winning a bottle of white wine. A big „Thank You‟ to
Our first port of call, on a very wet day, was the Halfpenny Green vineyard where
we gathered for coffee before having a look round. We looked in at some of the
staff cleaning out vats, and some members walked round some of the vines. There
are around fifteen different varieties of vine, all of which seemed to be producing a
bumper crop of grapes. The vineyard makes its own wines on site.
After lunch we drove to the small village of Rock with its large Norman church, of
St Peter and St Paul. Perhaps the main interesting features in the church are the
beautiful Norman arches, one over the entrance to the church, and the other the
chancel arch. Both are elaborately carved. Other objects of interest were the
twelfth century Norman bowl of the font, also beautifully carved, and the pre-reformation oak chest hewn from a solid oak tree trunk and studded. This is
thought to be a "Peter's pence chest". Outside the church, there are clear signs of
a moated manor house, and also a 'holloway' left over from a deserted village site
which unfortunately the local owner had ploughed up.
After this most interesting stop we moved onward to Stourport-on-Severn where
we explored the canal basins. Stourport grew up as a canal town and an inland
port, second only to Birmingham. By the early nineteenth century there were five
basins used by a large number of narrow boats bringing coal to Stourport (this
trade finished in 1949). In the 1920s petroleum and cocoa was brought up the
‘Down to the Wyre’ 14 - 16 September 2010
Halfpenny Green vineyard
River Severn from Bristol on barges, but this trade also petered out with the rise of
commercial road transport. The basins are now used for leisure boats, and the
remaining warehouses that line the basins have taken on new lives as
apartments. The size and number of the basins emphasise just how important a
port Stourport must have been until relatively recently.
Our second day began on a much brighter note, weather-wise, and we made our
way to our first destination, Harvington Hall, in great anticipation. The approach to
it was rather unusual - along a meandering narrow lane and a small housing estate -
then we rounded a truly huge tree stump on the final corner to find a lovely red-
bricked Elizabethan moated manor house. We were charmed by its setting beyond
the rich greenness of its fronting lawn but also by the jumble of roofs, their various
elevations and the lone tall chimney rising from the low middle section. A second
look at the towers flanking either side indicated the secrets hidden within the
house, for the levels of the windows did not match up. In fact that was even more
apparent in one of the walls at the back of the Hall where nine levels of windows
could be counted. It was entirely in keeping with the interior where there was a bewildering array of passages, many flights of stairs and of course the famous
„priests holes‟ hidden away in so many ingenious ways. We were shown at least
five on our tour and they ranged from a simple „box‟ below a trapdoor in a
passage, to a false fireplace which led up into the roof space, to the amazing
swinging beam hiding place in Dr. Dodd‟s Library – but only for a very thin priest
to negotiate! It was humbling to think of the Pakington family‟s commitment to the
Roman Catholic faith and the measures they were prepared to take to receive and
hide the succession of incoming priests at such a dangerous time and with possible
awful consequences.
Harvington Hall
Page 8
Page 9
Lunch was at the sixteenth century Talbot Inn in Chaddesley Corbett, a village of
Saxon origin, for a very welcome and hearty meal of soup and sandwiches. It was
good, though, first of all to stretch our legs with a stroll up and down the broad
main street and admire the succession of beautifully preserved black and white
timber framed houses and fine Georgian buildings. For a settlement that in 1086 seemed to have been as important as Kidderminster, if not more so, time appeared
to have stood still as far as any industry and growth, yet evidence of prosperity was
there in the buildings. It was noticeable how clean and tidy the whole street was
but also how free of modern disfiguring street signage, presumably a deliberate
policy by the local council. The Talbot itself was entirely in keeping with its
picturesque timber work, solid sandstone plinth and adorning flower tubs and
baskets.
The rest of the afternoon was spent in Bewdley, a town with a long history as a
crossing point and river port on the River Severn. Free to explore in fine sunshine
we decided on a walking tour with the help of a leaflet from the Tourist
Information Centre. We began at the (Old Butchers) Shambles now the Bewdley
Museum with its fascinating exhibition of the lives and crafts of the town through
the ages. We then continued down Load (locally a ford) Street to Telford‟s Bridge,
an elegant three arched structure with a simple balustrade, leading to the Stourport
Road. From the bridge, alongside the Severn, we followed the River of Words: the
lower level of pavement displaying the various terms for river crafts and the higher
one itemizing in roundels all the goods carried on the trading vessels. It was a delightful way of learning about this vital part of Bewdley‟s history and much
more interesting than the usual display panel. Our tour then took us into Queen
Elizabeth II Jubilee Gardens with a lovely wild flower and sculpture area before
continuing along Lax Lane to find Lower Park House, the childhood home of PM
Black and white timber framing in Chaddesley Corbett
Stanley Baldwin. In the final leg along High Street we were impressed yet again
with the many fine timber framed houses, notably Church House and the elaborate
Bailiff‟s House of 1610. By then we were ready for the welcome tea and cake at St.
Anne‟s Church which we had been promised. This was a very satisfying end to a
varied and thoroughly enjoyable day.
In contrast to Wednesday‟s mainly urban emphases, Thursday‟s visits were of rural
flavour, starting at the newly opened Discovery Centre in the middle of the wooded
area of the ancient hunting forest of Wyre - appropriately having to wait whilst tree
surgeons attended to the branches of trees above us. The Centre is primarily
constructed from green oak from the forest, and is in itself a model and delightful
educational centre. Amongst its many environmentally friendly credentials is that it
uses rainwater from a green roof in its toilet blocks.
It was also a delight to listen to Adam Mindykowski at the centre as he ably and
enthusiastically set the Forest into its wider historical and geographical context.
He described the projects being developed, with the aid of Heritage Lottery Funds,
to promote and manage its historic landscape. He showed us how its role as a
forest could be traced from prehistoric times, through the twelfth and thirteenth
centuries up to the present day, using tell-tale patterns left on the ground. These
can be revealed by aerial laser surveying. The LIDAR (Light Detecting and
Ranging) technique allows researchers, including trained community volunteers, to
interpret previously hidden archaeological surface features in wooded areas by
„virtually‟ removing the tree canopy - a fascinating twenty-first century application
of scientific method.
We were sorry we did not have more time to explore the woods further. However
it was equally as interesting to be accompanied by Adam on an exploration of
Pound Green Common. This Common is a rare example of the way many areas of
Britain were once farmed, with scattered cottages and „infields‟ bordering shared
Page 10
Somewhere in Bewdley!
Page 11
open grazing land. It
retains its „Commoners‟,
living in cottages which
have been built with the
permission of the local lord of the manor. We
were privileged to hear at
„first hand‟ about the
history and ecology of
the Common from
Godfrey Jones, himself a
Commoner. A refreshing
walk for the more active
members took us through
a multitude of fascinating
insights into the history and management of the Common and its land use, past and
present. Amongst many other interesting things, Adam took us past a relict orchard, 300 year old anthills and traces of ridge and furrow. We held our breath
whilst a large explosion indicated a twenty-first century diversification - a very
active rocket engine testing area within the heathland area.
The day and our study tour ended with a short drive (appropriately on the route
home to Chester) to Kinver, where a complex of „Rock Houses‟ - dwellings in the
landscape, can be explored. Restored by the National Trust, one can imagine life
in Victorian times, when up to eleven families lived here. With productive gardens
and fresher air, life expectancy was higher here than in the congested and
insanitary towns.
Several of the more active members enjoyed a brisk walk up to the top of the
sandstone ridge above Kinver Edge, and all went home happy and invigorated after
another very successful, well organised study tour.
Anne Rowe, Gillian Langrick and Breta Lloyd
Adam talking to the troops!
A Landscape History Alphabet
Our second publication, A Landscape History Alphabet, which was on sale at the
Cheshire Local History Day and at our November lecture, has proved very
popular. We have less than ten copies remaining from our first print-run. The booklet costs £4.00 and can be purchased at lectures.
Monday 24 January 2011: Professor Chris Dyer: ‘Cotswold landscapes from
prehistory until 1600: some myths exposed'
Christopher Dyer has recently retired as Professor of Regional and Local History at
the University of Leicester, having previously been Professor of Medieval Social History at the University of Birmingham. From January 2011 he holds a
Leverhulme Trust Emeritus Fellowship. He is a Fellow of the British Academy.
His books include Standard of Living in the Later Middle Ages, Making a Living
in the Middle Ages, and An Age of Transition. His numerous articles include
publications on the woodland landscapes of the midlands, and on champion
landscapes, including Compton Verney. His research on the Cotswolds includes
three village studies alongside various general works.
The Cotswold Hills have a reputation for the beauty of the countryside and
especially of its stone built villages. It now provides homes for numerous
politicians, media personalities, writers and the new rich. It acquired its modern
reputation towards the end of the nineteenth century, and it has not always been a desirable place to live. This lecture aims at a realistic demolition of the myths
which are widely believed by its wealthy but often ill-informed inhabitants. Its
villages are not timeless, it has not always been lived in by sheep for the special
breed of Cotswold sheep is a late development, the district has not always enjoyed
great prosperity, and the „wool towns‟ are misnamed. Debunking the modern
image of the Cotswolds makes us think about our approach to the landscape in
general. The lecturer has a particular antipathy to the word „nestles‟, as in „the
village nestles in the valley‟, and will show why it is a crime against the English
language and the landscape to use the term.
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Lecture Programme
Looking Forward - The Year Ahead Lectures, Visits and Discovery Day
Page 12 Page 13
Monday 28 February 2011: Ed Bennis: ‘Boogie-woogie, Flappers, Bathtub
Gin and … the Modernist Garden’
Ed Bennis qualified as a landscape architect in the United States and obtained a
post-graduate degree in historic conservation at the University of York. Head of the Landscape Architecture programme at Manchester Metropolitan University for
13 years, he is currently head of the Centre for Landscape Research at the
university. As well as teaching history and theory, he has been involved in
research and practice for regional governments, English Heritage and private
companies. He has co-authored books, published and lectured extensively. He has
led and worked on several EU projects dealing with landscape issues in the UK,
Italy, Portugal, France, and Germany. As a visiting Professor of Landscape
Architecture in Novi Sad, Serbia, he has run Master Classes there for five years as
well as classes in Beijing and Guangzhou. Currently he is researching and
advising East Cheshire and Lancashire County Councils on their historic parks and
gardens, as well as being chair of Cheshire Gardens Trust. More information can
be found at: http://www.artdes.mmu.ac.uk/profile/ebennis
It often seems that things that are closest to us in time and place, are those things
that we have the least knowledge and understanding. Ed‟s interest in the modern
landscape, specifically modernism, developed through his work in Europe and
lectures in the United States. While the roots of modernism are well researched in
art and architecture, there is little that has addressed the designed landscape.
Discovering Sir Geoffrey Jellicoe‟s water garden for the Cadbury factory at
Moreton (1952) was a key moment. This was followed by investigating the work
of Jan Canneel-Claes in Belgium which showed that the modernist garden was far
from the mechanical and austere ideal that we too often assume. One garden
survived the war, fashion and time: it was in fact a family garden (1937) that has retained almost completely its original form for seventy years. Ed‟s presentation
will look at the context, reasoning and detail of this neglected period of twentieth-
century design.
Monday 28 March 2011: Pete Lewis: ‘Wat’s Dyke’
Pete Lewis is a university lecturer in corporate governance and finance, but outside
teaching hours is to be found walking the border countryside. Together with a
team of like-minded ramblers, he was instrumental in creating the Wat‟s Dyke
Way and subsequently promoting it for National Long-Distance Footpath status.
The Way runs for 61 miles between Llanymynech and Holywell. Pete is the author
of Wat’s Dyke Way Heritage Trail, the standard guidebook to the Way, as well as Rural Walks in Flintshire and several other guides – he aims to produce one every
Wat‟s Dyke has always been a mystery. Pete will pose some simple questions
about it and then demonstrate that the answers are very complicated – What was
the purpose of the Dyke? Who was Wat? When was the dyke built, and who built
it?
Monday 26 September 2011: Professor Peter Gaunt: ‘The Landscape of the
Civil War in Cheshire and further afield’
Peter Gaunt has been at the University of Chester since the early 1990s, having
previously held academic posts at the Universities of London (Royal Holloway)
and Wales (Swansea), plus a spell at the Victoria University of Wellington in New
Zealand. The bulk of his research and writing focuses on the history of England
and Wales and of Britain as a whole during the mid seventeenth century, ranging
across the military history of the civil wars of the 1640s and the political and
constitutional history of the post-war republican regimes of the 1650s. He has
written or edited ten books, including mainly military studies of the civil war in
Wales, in England and Wales and in Britain as a whole, together with two (different) biographies of Oliver Cromwell and an edition of the correspondence of
Henry Cromwell; he has published around 40 articles and chapters in the same
general areas, including work on the civil war in Cheshire, the North West and
Wales. However, he also has a background in archaeology, architecture and the
historic landscape, having studied archaeology for part of his first degree and then
spending large parts of the 1980s working as an archaeologist, an architectural
historian and a landscape historian. He has drawn upon this background by relating
the physical (urban and rural) landscape of the mid seventeenth century to the
course, outcome and surviving legacy of the civil war and this interplay will form
the basis of this lecture.
For this lecture, Peter will reassess the course of the civil war in Cheshire – the
county was caught up in the conflict more or less from the outbreak of war in summer 1642 until close to its conclusion in late spring/early summer 1646. For
much of that time it was a divided county, with the parliamentarians holding most
of central and eastern Cheshire, the royalists the western parts, including the Dee
valley, the Wirral and of course Chester itself. Peter will explore how far that key
division of allegiance can be attributed to physical factors and so can be linked to
the landscape, as well as exploring how geographical factors, including the nature
of Cheshire‟s topography, its borders and its position within the wider region and
the county‟s position in relation to the royalist and parliamentarian HQs at Oxford
and London respectively, impacted upon the course, nature and outcome of the
civil war in Cheshire.
Page 14 Page 15
Monday 31 October 2011: Professor David Hey: ‘The Peak District Grouse
Moors’
David Hey is Emeritus Professor of Local and Family History at the University of
Sheffield. He is currently President of the British Association for Local History, Chairman of the British Record Society, and the author of numerous books,
including Derbyshire: A History (Carnegie, 2008).
The enclosure of huge acreages of commons and wastes in the late eighteenth and
early nineteenth centuries under a series of private Acts of Parliament enabled
great landowners to form compact moorland estates that were devoted to the
shooting of grouse. The Peak District moors began to acquire their present
managed appearance when grouse were first reared on an unprecedented scale in
Queen Victoria‟s reign. The characteristic patchwork patterns of the moorland
landscape are created by burning the heather in rotation on a ten or twelve-year
cycle. Controlled fires in winter time encourage the spring growth of fresh shoots
for the grouse to feed upon while patches of thick heather provide safe nesting out of the sight of predators. Burning the heather was an ancient practice, for sheep,
too, relished young shoots, but it was done on a modest scale before the
introduction of shooting butts in the 1860s. The heyday of grouse shooting was in
the late Victorian and Edwardian era. If „sporting estates‟ had not been created at
that time, it seems likely that many moors would now be covered with conifers and
others would have been encroached upon by new, rectangular pastures and
meadows around their edges. Similarly most of the prehistoric and medieval
archaeological sites, and the visual evidence of early forms of transport would have
been lost, or at least hidden from view.
Monday 28 November 2011: Professor Cynthia Burek: ‘Geodiversity and
Geoconservation in Cheshire’s Landscape’
Cynthia Burek has been at the University of Chester since the early 1990s, having
previously held academic posts at the Universities of NEWI (now Glyndŵr
University) and Staffordshire University and she has been an associate lecturer for
the Open University since 1980. Prior to that she was at the University of Syracuse
in upstate New York for four years. In 2005 she was given a chair in
Geoconservation, the first in the world. The bulk of her research and writing
focuses on Geoconservation or the history of women in geology. She has edited
three books, including The History of Palaeobotany (2005), The History of
Geoconservation (2008) and The Role of Women in the History of Geology (2007).
At present she is researching marine geoconservation and limestone pavement habitat conservation, as well as the effect of climate change on geodiversity. She
has made several TV and radio appearances including Coast and Material World.
She serves on the GeoConservation Commission of the Geological Society of
London and the Executive of Geoconservation UK and she convenes the
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International Federation of University Women Fellowship Committee. Locally she
represents the Cheshire RIGS group on the Saltscape HLF bid and chairs the North
East Wales RIGS group.
This talk will look at the definitions of geodiversity and geoconservation and apply those concepts to local landscapes especially Cheshire. Why is colour so important
to our county? Why is it necessary to conserve rocks? What is the difference
between preservation and conservation and how do the different philosophies apply
to a healthy natural landscape. Where do soils fit in? These are the questions that
will be addressed during the lecture.
Mike Headon
A message from Mike and Maggie Taylor:
Sincere thanks to all those members who organised visits during 2010. They were:
Peter Roberts (Rhos), Julie Smalley (Middlewich), Tom and Fiona Swailes
(Bollington), Graeme White (Ashbourne), Hilary and Monty Cordwell (Gop Cairn
and the caves), and remembering the late Carmen Johnson who navigated the bureaucracy of Shell, Peel Holdings and the Port of Liverpool to get us to Stanlaw.
Especially, too, we would like to record thanks to Jennifer and Mike Kennerley for
the study break in the Wyre Forest.
In our 25th Anniversary year our programme of events showcases the variety of
activities CSLH has to offer. The field visits programme has changed slightly to
accommodate a late Easter, May Bank Holidays, an early Residential and the
Conference. All our visits will take place on Sundays this year; this may
disappoint some members but there may be opportunities where you can join us for
the afternoon. Please indicate this on the Booking Form.
Sunday June 5th, ‘Houses of Mold, Tower and St. Mary’s Church, Mold’
Leader: David Rowe Start time: 10.30 a.m.
As a border town, Mold has played an important part in Welsh history and its
surroundings contain many buildings reflecting this rich tapestry. Culture is well
represented in the town and amongst others can boast being the birthplace of the
'Dickens of Wales', Daniel Owen and the burial place of the great British
Field Visit Programme
Page 16 Page 17
Landscape painter and a founder member of the Royal Academy of Arts, Richard
Wilson.
The day's activities will be split into three parts commencing with a guided walk of
the town to discover the origins of the medieval town, the history of its buildings and people, and to learn of the common link between W.E. Gladstone and the
WWII story of 'The Man Who Never Was'.
After lunch we will visit what a BBC Wales programme featured as one the 'Great
Houses of Wales', the fifteenth-century castellated house called Tower situated on
the outskirts of Mold. It was here in 1465 that a former Mayor of Chester came to a
violent end at the hands of the owner Rheinallt ap Gruffydd ap Bleddyn. A
Lancastrian supporter, Rheinallt, was part of the rebel garrison at Harlech
supporting Jasper Tudor and the exiled Henry VI against Edward IV. Moving on
through the centuries, Tower has a number of connections with the Peninsular
Wars and we will learn about the link with Field Marshal Combermere whose
statue sits proudly in the middle of the road opposite Chester Castle. The current owner Charles Wynne-Eyton is a descendent of Rheinallt and he will be on hand to
provide further background to the house and its families.
We return to Mold for the final part of the visit with a guided tour of the parish
church, St. Mary the Virgin. A church has existed on the site since the twelfth
century when the Norman Lords of Mold, the Montalt family, erected an earlier
church but the core of the present building commenced in the late fifteenth or early
sixteenth century under the patronage of Lady Margaret Beaufort, wife of Lord
Stanley. This was one of a number of churches patronised by Lady Margaret
Beaufort to celebrate the victory in 1485 of her son Henry Tudor over Richard III
at the Battle of Bosworth. Amongst other points of interest, the church contains many of the heraldic symbols of the Stanley family.
Please note that there will be an additional charge for entrance to Tower. This will
cost approximately £7 and will include an afternoon tea. This part of the trip is
entirely optional.
Sunday 26th, President’s Visit: ‘In and Around Lancaster’
Leader: Professor Graeme White Start Time 10.30 a.m.
This visit is of interest not only for the castle, priory church, medieval street
pattern, Roman remains and redeveloped quayside of the historic city of Lancaster
(though it only became a „city‟ in 1937) but also for the development of transport systems. We meet at 10.00 a.m. at Charnock Richard service station on the M6
northbound and proceed from there along the first experimental motorway in
Britain, the Preston bypass opened in December 1958 (a few original features of
which remain), and the A6 north of Preston into Lancaster (which has some
excellent evidence of its turnpike past). In Lancaster itself we encounter the
Lancaster Canal (opened in 1797 to link the coalfields of the south of the county
with the limestone of the north), the legacy of the city‟s role as a port, and the west
coast main railway line which, when it opened from Preston to Lancaster in 1840,
made this for the next six years the northern terminus.
Within the city, we shall visit St George‟s Quay on the River Lune, then walk past
remains of the Roman auxiliary fort to the priory church (noted for fourteenth-
century misericords, earlier than those at Chester), and the castle (exterior only - it
is still used as a prison). There will then be an opportunity to explore Lancaster
individually and to have lunch. For those who wish to stay on beyond mid-
afternoon, there will be a drive past the Ashton Memorial of 1908 and the Duchy
of Lancaster‟s Quernmore Forest to Crook of Lune, north-east of the city, where
there are the remains of the Morecambe to Skipton „Little‟ North Western railway
opened in 1849.
Directions on where to park in Lancaster will be issued at the rendezvous at Charnock Richard However, anyone who wants to go direct to Lancaster (e.g. by
rail) should aim to be at the millennium footbridge on the south bank of the river
by 11.15a.m. Those completing the full visit should be back in Chester -
motorway traffic permitting - by about 6.30 p.m.
Sunday 17th July, ‘Lymm and Old Warburton’
Leaders: Maggie and Mike Taylor Start time: 10.30 a.m.
Whilst modern Lymm is a threatening reminder of how to ruin a place by rampant
and ghastly development, the core of the old village can still be recognised and is
interesting. The early settlement grew alongside a vigorous stream that drains to the Mersey. After the Conquest, the manor descended to the Domvilles who built
several halls, two of which, one Tudor, the other Elizabethan, are still occupied; we
will go through their grounds. This South-North axis was bisected in the
eighteenth century by the Bridgewater Canal that cut straight through the old
market place. Fifty years later, the Chester-Stockport turnpike was not so welcome
and it was routed around the village via an embankment that dammed the stream.
Salt extraction and fustian cutting have now gone but the manufacture of gold leaf
continues to the present day.
This is a visit for walkers: we will walk up the valley, following the stream,
feeding the ducks and using our „landscape eyes‟ to see the old Lymm.
After lunch, we will drive to Warburton to visit the old church of St Werburgh.
Pevsner described it as „a muddle‟ - rather an understatement! Partly half-
timbered, using frames that seem to have come from two earlier buildings, it also
has a brick tower dated 1711. We will also discuss the earlier priory, toll bridges
Page 18
over dry river beds, cruck-framed cottages and farms - and even spot some
dinosaurs‟ footprints!
Bring decent walking gear (2-4 miles) and food suitable for ducks. Expect cobbled
and uneven surfaces and some steps. A good visit for walking families.
Sunday 11th September, ‘Neston Collieries and the Surrounding Landscape’
Leader : Anthony Annakin-Smith Start time: 2.00 p.m.
The Neston collieries were the only coal mines in west Cheshire and operated for
most of the period from 1759 to 1927. They were remarkable in many ways, not
least for their canals which ran under the Dee estuary.
Anthony Annakin-Smith will lead members and conference delegates around the
former mining area looking at remaining signs of the works in the landscape. The
walk gives breath-taking views of the estuary and will include other aspects of
history along this stretch of the Dee.
Page 18 Page 19
Discovery Day Saturday 2nd July 2011
Field trips prove highly popular each year and are often oversubscribed. The
appeal is a chance to enter familiar landscapes…and unravel their less familiar
historic secrets.
New for 2011 - a Discovery Day is planned in which participants get to do a little of their own landscape detection. Using a selection of maps and printed sources as
essential input, the day will include task suggestions and hints to guide us along a
walking route, and final plenary to compare notes.
The overall aim is that by the end of the day, observation and analysis skills will be
sharpened…or at the very least we will know the kind of questions to ask! For,
what is learnt in one context can usually be applied to other landscapes and urban
settings.
Discovery Day 2011 is provisionally set for Saturday 2nd July and will use the
town of Middlewich in mid-Cheshire as an easily explorable example. Further
details will be sent out nearer the time. Come along and discover!
Julie Smalley
Page 20
Programme
Registration and coffee (9:00am)
Welcome & Introduction (9:30am)
CSLH – Past, Present & Future
Keynote Address: Stewart Ainsworth
Morning Coffee
Celebrating 25 Years:
„Black and white houses to black and white cows; an untold story!‟
Sharon Varey
„Walk mill on the R. Gowy, Foulk Stapleford‟
John Whittle
„Settlements and their shapes in NE Wales‟
Mike Headon
„Large enclosures in the Cheshire landscape‟
Anthony Annakin-Smith
Buffet Lunch
„Ness Gardens and the landscape‟
Paul Cook
Free time to explore Ness Gardens
‟New views of old roads: turnpikes in the Cheshire landscape 1700-1900‟
Alan Crosby
Tea and Scones
„The enclosure of West Cheshire: keeping ahead of champion England‟
Graeme White
Landscape Discoveries in the North West
Page 20 Page 21
The Presenters and their talks
Stewart Ainsworth is a senior archaeological investigator with the English
Heritage Research Department. A long-time Chester resident, he is well-known to
everyone as Time Team's lumps-and-bumps man and landscape detective. In his keynote address, he will discuss the value of a new tool - known as LIDAR - to
aid landscape research, and discuss its use in relation to new research at Stanlow
Abbey and other sites in the north of England.
Paul Cook is the Curator at Ness Gardens. Previously he was Head Gardener at
Arley Hall near Northwich. Before that he ran his own landscape business and was
a Lecturer at Reaseheath College. He trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew
where his interest in Botany and a broader view of horticulture and conservation
was encouraged.
Paul will talk about the development of Ness, looking at its founder Arthur Kilpin
Bulley and his influence on horticulture and plant collecting. He will consider the University years from 1948 to the present and future plans for Ness as a Botanic
Garden and visitor attraction.
Alan Crosby is one of Britain‟s most prominent local historians. Since 2001 he
has been editor of The Local Historian and is a main contributor to the BBC Who
Do You Think You Are? magazine. He is an honorary research fellow at the
universities of Lancaster and Liverpool, and was co-author of the English Heritage
volume on the landscape of North West England (2006). Among his other books
are A History of Cheshire (1998) and the History of Warrington (2002).
Alan will be talking about the turnpike roads of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and how they have long been under-appreciated as an element in the
landscape, apparently unable to match the glamour of railways and canals.
Nevertheless he will argue that their contribution to the economic development of
Britain, and to the industrialisation of our region, is of central importance. He will
also consider their significance in terms of design and construction. This lecture
considers the turnpikes of the county, highlighting their enduring impact upon
upland and lowland landscapes alike.
As well as President of our Society, Graeme White is Emeritus Professor of Local
History at the University of Chester. He launched the Diploma in Landscape
History (later to become the MA in Landscape, Heritage and Society) in 1978 at
what was then Chester College. He is a Fellow of both the Society of Antiquaries and the Royal Historical Society, having published a number of books and articles
on both the government of twelfth-century England under Kings Stephen and
Henry II and the open fields and rural settlement of medieval Cheshire.
Page 22
In his talk Graeme will consider the distribution of open fields in medieval west
Cheshire and in particular the processes by which they became enclosed from the
late medieval period through to the eighteenth century, with local examples. These
processes are compared and contrasted with those which pertained in the central
zone of England - so-called 'champion England' - and there is discussion of how far one or other experience could in any sense be regarded as 'superior'.
Member’s Research papers
Sharon Varey: Black and white houses to black and white cows – an untold story!
Sharon is a former primary teacher who spent the last six years of her teaching
career working in north Shropshire. Her talk originates from her recent PhD
research into this area and will consider the economy of a Shropshire parish c1550-
2000 – a period which witnessed considerable changes within the farming
economy.
Mike Headon: Settlements and their shapes in north-east Wales Mike is a retired higher education lecturer. He is particularly interested in the
landscape history of Wales. He will look at the different types of settlement to be
found in north-east Wales, how they might be classified, and why they might be
the shape they are.
John Whittle: Walk Mill on the River Gowy in Foulk Stapleford
After retiring from a life-long career as a research scientist in the petroleum
industry John became active in Local History. He has edited five books on the area
where he lives and has had a number of articles published in Cheshire
History. John will consider the origins of Walk Mill, a recently reconstructed
water mill from its early days as a fulling mill and later as a flour grinding mill and its location in the landscape.
Anthony Annakin-Smith: Large Enclosures in the Cheshire Landscape
Anthony is a lecturer and writer who became interested in landscape history to try
to satisfy his curiosity during country walks, and has used some of his knowledge
to write the popular book „Wirral Walks‟. Anthony will discuss the form and
purpose of large enclosures in the Cheshire landscape. These enclosures range
from deer parks to more enigmatic „oval enclosures‟ and their associated
structures. What form did these various enclosures take, how and why were they
designed, and what influence did they have on the later landscape? The discussion
will also consider the dating evidence - while many of the structures are medieval
in origin, did some originate in much earlier times?
Sharon, Mike, John and Anthony are all former graduates of the MA in Landscape
History run by Chester College (now the University of Chester).
Page 22 Page 23
The Field-Names Project is continuing to flourish, with research currently focusing
on the following areas: Backford, Barrow, Baschurch, Bidston, Erddig, Foulk
Stapleford, Northop, Shotwick, Tarvin, Tattenhall, Thelwall and Tranmere.
We‟d love to extend our investigations to other places in Cheshire, Shropshire and
North Wales, so if you‟d like to get involved or share your existing research with
us, you‟ll be welcomed with open arms.
Why do field-names matter so much? Basically they provide invaluable snapshots of landscape topography, geology, usage and ownership. For instance, the
incidence of Hog Meadow in Taxal tells us that pig-farming occurred in east
Cheshire, while names like Three Day Math („three days‟ mowing‟) indicate how
long was spent on particular agricultural tasks and give an idea of the relative size
of meadowland. Even more graphically, some names may record long-ago
incidents which affected the well-being of an entire community, as in the case of
the sorrowful thirteenth-century Buckinghamshire field-name, Thertheoxlaydede.
Various field-name elements – croft, worth, pingot, loons – occur time and again,
but we don‟t yet know which is the commonest or whether this varies according to
parish or county. We are therefore creating a database which will enable us to analyse a range of factors relating to occurrence and typology of names. Along the
way all manner of fascinating information about our local landscape history is
emerging.
The next Field-Names Project meeting will take place 7-9pm at Ashton Hayes
Parish Rooms on Monday the 31st of January 2011 – all welcome.
At the meeting, John Hess will be speaking about field-names in Backford. After
his presentation everyone will be invited to discuss similarities and differences
between field-names in Backford and their own area, and there will be a chance to
pool knowledge about tricky and unusual field-name elements.
For more information about the project or the forthcoming meeting, please contact
No Mean City: A Local History of Thelwall in Cheshire
by Mike Taylor
Thelwall is better known for its Viaduct than
its history. The massive structures span the
east-west transport routes that shaped the
development of the Thelwall landscape – the
River Mersey, Bridgewater and Manchester Ship Canals and the railway. Despite claims
to city status dating to the time of King
Edward the Elder, the village has somehow
always seemed isolated from the main
traffic of its day.
Few people travelling over the Viaduct
would notice the village that gave it its name
or know its secrets – the gunpowder mill
that supplied both sides in the American
War of Independence, links to the
Triangular Trade, and eye watering amounts of debt incurred by some Lords of the
Maonr whose gestures in life and bequests
in death were unsustainable.
Any items for the next newsletter need to be submitted by
15th July 2011.
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FIELD VISITS BOOKING FORM 2011
Members are asked to indicate below the visits in which they would like to take part. As usual, these visits are available only to members of the Society. A non-returnable deposit of £3.00 per person per visit will be requested once a place on the visit has been confirmed by the Field Visits Organiser after 8 February 2011.
Completed forms should be sent to reach Mike Taylor, Thelwall Lea, Halfacre Lane, Thelwall, Warrington WA4 3JE no later than Monday 7 February 2011, accompanied by a stamped and self-addressed envelope. Where a visit is over-subscribed, we will allocate places by lot; unsuccessful applicants will be put on a waiting list. Please contact Mike Taylor ([email protected] or 01925 263184) if you find are unable to attend so that your places can be offered to those on the waiting list.
We will send joining instructions by e-mail where possible in order to save on postage costs; please check your e-mail boxes 2 to 3 weeks before each visit. Name of Member(s)………………………………………………………………… Address…………………………………………………………………………………. e-mail address…………………………………………………………………………
Programme for 2011
Date Start Time Visit Title No. of places
Fee/person Total Fee
Sunday June 5th
10.30 am Houses of Mold and Tower
£3*
Sunday 26th June
10.30 am President’s Visit: Lancaster
£3
Sunday 17th July
10.30 am Lymm and Warburton
£3
Sunday 11th
September
2.00 pm Neston Collieries and Surrounding
Landscape
£3
*plus admission charge for Tower – this part of the visit is optional
Please send no money with this form. Members are reminded that they are responsible for arranging their own insurance. The Society does not provide accident insurance for members.