CheeseTalk, Meeting 10-2-14

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The Science & Art

of Cheese Making

Kerry E. Kaylegian, Ph.D.ADSA Northeast Section Symposium

July 2014

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The Demand for Cheese …

0.0

5.0

10.0

15.0

20.0

25.0

30.0

35.0

40.0

1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010

U.S. Per Capita Consumption of CheeseUSDA Ag Market Services Data 1975 - 2012

American Other Cottage Total

… is Growing

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How can you govern a country

that has 246 varieties of cheese?

Charles de Gaulle

French President, 1958-1969

2013: 1794 entries (cheese, yogurt, butter),

100 categories

2012: World Championship, 2504 entries, 81 categories2013: US Championship, 1702 entries, 81 categories

2014: World Championship, 2619 entries, 90 categories

(cheese, butter)

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What is Cheese?

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Changing Consumer Preferences

•  Growth in "foodies"

• 

Consumer connection to their food 

 –  

farmer's markets

 –  

Buy Fresh Buy Local –   on-site sales

 –   cheese trails

Wallace & Gromit, www.telegraph.co.uk

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Defining Varieties …

By Manufacturing Technique

• 

Acid set

• 

Rennet set

• 

Fresh/Aged

• 

Cheddar type

• 

Pasta filata

• 

Cheese with eyes

• 

 Natural rind

• 

Washed-rind

• 

Mold-ripened

By Cheese Characteristics

• 

Fresh

• 

Semi-soft

• 

Soft-ripened

• 

Surface-ripened

• 

Semi-hard

• 

Hard

• 

Blue

• 

Washed-rind

• 

Milk type (cow, goat, sheep)

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Cheese Standards

• 

Code of Federal Regulations – 

21 CFR 133•  http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/

scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/

cfrsearch.cfm?cfrpart=133

 –  

contains Standards of Identity

(SoI) for 70+ cheeses

 –  

regulations can be very specific

on cheese composition, make

 procedures and ingredients

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Cheese – Pasteurized or Raw

7 CFR 58

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Variables in Cheesemaking

• 

Type of cheese•

Type of milk

•  Milk composition

•  Heat treatment

• 

Microorganisms used•

Time

• 

Temperature

•   pH

• 

Salting method

•  Other handling

• 

Other ingredients

• 

Environment – 

sanitation

 –  

water quality

 –  

native flora (good & bad)

 –  

storage temperature – 

storage humidity

•  Production consistency – 

acidity development

 –  

flavor & texture

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General Cheese Making Steps

Raw Milk

Pasteurize/Heat

Inoculate with Starter & Non-Starter Bacteria and Ripen

Add Rennet and Form Coagulum

Cut Curd & Cook

Drain Whey

Texture Curd

Dry Salt/Brine

Form Cheeses

Store and Age

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Setting Milk Prepare milk for coagulation

Ripen starter culture

Rennet coagulation

Temperature

Protein

Calcium

Sanitation (phage)

Cutting the

Curd

Speed whey expulsion

Assist in uniform cooking

Assist with moisture control

Curd firmness

Size of curd particles

Uniformity of curd particles

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Setting Milk Prepare milk for coagulation

Ripen starter culture

Rennet coagulation

Temperature

Protein

Calcium

Sanitation (phage)

Cutting the

Curd

Speed whey expulsion

Assist in uniform cooking

Assist with moisture control

Curd firmness

Size of curd particles

Uniformity of curd particles

Cooking the

curd

Remove whey

Establish moisture level in cheese

Influence texture

Curd size

Time & temperature profile

Stirring rate pH

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Setting Milk Prepare milk for coagulation

Ripen starter culture

Rennet coagulation

Temperature

Protein

Calcium

Sanitation (phage)

Cutting the

Curd

Speed whey expulsion

Assist in uniform cooking

Assist with moisture control

Curd firmness

Size of curd particles

Uniformity of curd particles

Cooking the

curd

Remove whey

Establish moisture level in cheese

Influence texture

Curd size

Time & temperature profile

Stirring rate pH

Draining or

Dipping

Separate whey from curds

Moisture control

 pH

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Curd Knitting Form characteristic texture

Acid development

Moisture control

Temperature

Time

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Curd Knitting Form characteristic texture

Acid development

Moisture control

Temperature

Time

Pressing Expel whey

Shape cheese

Influence texture

Temperature

Pressure

Acidity development

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Curd Knitting Form characteristic texture

Acid development

Moisture control

Temperature

Time

Pressing Expel whey

Shape cheese

Influence texture

Temperature

Pressure

Acidity development

Salting Influence flavor

Influence texture

Control moisture

Method of salting

Curd size

Temperature

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Major Steps in Cheese Making

Step Purpose Key Factors

Curd Knitting Form characteristic texture

Acid development

Moisture control

Temperature

Time

Pressing Expel whey

Shape cheese

Influence texture

Temperature

Pressure

Acidity development

Salting Influence flavor

Influence texture

Control moisture

Method of salting

Curd size

Temperature

SpecialApplications

Apply appropriate practices togive cheese its characteristics

(pasta filata, mold-ripened,

washed-rind, aged)

Depends on the application

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Flavoring Cheese

•  Herbs

•  Spices

• 

Fruit pieces•  Vegetable pieces

•  Smoke

• 

Beer•  Wine

•  (Microbial smears)www.images.google.com

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Washed-Rind Cheese

•  Outer surface flavor & color – 

 beer•  Chimay Ale

 –  

wine

• 

Drunken Goat

•  Complex flavor & rind development

 –  

microbial smears ( Brevibacterium linens) 

 –  

yeasts – 

sequence of organism development

 –   specific to organisms used

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Cheese Aging = Affinage

•  The ripening of a young cheese to a mature cheese – 

development of complex flavors and textures

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Cheese Aging

• 

Cheese Variables – 

cheese type – 

microflora

•  Environment Variables

 –  

temperature – 

humidity – 

air flow – 

air turnover – 

shelving type

 –  

 proximity to othercheeses

 –  

native flora – 

sanitation

• 

Handling – 

time – 

turning – 

 brushing

 –  

washing – 

sanitation

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Cheddar Type Cheese Make Steps

Raw Milk

Pasteurize/Heat

Inoculate with Starter & Non-Starter Bacteria and Ripen

Add Rennet and Form Coagulum

Cut Curd & Cook

Drain Whey

Texture Curd

Dry Salt

Form Cheeses

Store and Age

 Lactococcus lactis subsp. lactis or cremoris

 pH 6.4

100°F (38°C)

Cheddaring & Milling

OR

Stirred Curd pH 5.1 – 5.5

Hoop & Press

1 monthto 5+ years

 Lactobacillus casei, Lactobacillus plantarum

86-90°F

(30-32°C)

Wash curd for

Colby & Jack

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Cheese with Eyes Make Steps

Raw Milk

Pasteurize/Heat

Inoculate with Starter & Non-Starter Bacteria and Ripen

Add Rennet and Form Coagulum

Cut Curd & Cook

Drain Whey

Texture Curd

Brine

Form Cheeses

Store and Age

118-135°F (48-52°C)rapid cook

S. thermophilus, L. helviticus

 L. delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus  Proprionibacterium freudenreichi

 pH 6.4cheeses placed in hoops before draining

curd is pressed in hoops,acid begins to form pH 5.1-5.2

60°F (15°C), 2 d1-2 wk, 60°F (15°C) drying3-7 wk, 70-77°F (21-25°C)

eye formation4-12 wk, 41°F (5°C) aging

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Blue Veined Cheese Make Steps

Raw Milk

Pasteurize/Homogenize/Heat

Inoculate with Starter & Non-Starter Bacteria and Ripen

Add Rennet and Form Coagulum

Cut Curd & Cook

Dip Curd/Form Cheese

Texture Curd

Dry Salt/Brine

Drain Whey

Store and Age

 L. lactis subsp. lactis L. lactis subsp. cremoris

1 hr

90°F (32°C)

firm curd, open texture put into hoops

drain 1-7 d,

68°F (20°C), 80% RH

 pierce with needles

 Penicillium roqueforti spores 

ripen and cure50-60°F (10-15°C), 95% RHmold growth 2-4 mocure 2-4 mo

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?

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Grafton Village Maple-Smoked Cheddar

• 

www.graftonvillagecheese.com 

•  cow milk,

•  Vermont

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Spring Brook Farms Tarentaise

• 

www.farmsforcitykids.org 

•  cow milk

•  Vermont

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Cypress Grove – Humboldt Fog

• 

www.cypressgrovechevre.com 

•  goat milk

•  California

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Websites

• 

American Cheese Society –   www.cheesesociety.org 

•  Culture Magazine

 –  

www.culturecheesemag.com 

•  Murray's Cheese Shop, NYC –   www.murrayscheese.com 

• 

Cow Girl Creamery, CA/DC –   www.cowgirlcreamery.com