Chapter(15 Scalp(Care,(Shampooing,( and(Conditioning

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Chapter 15Scalp Care, Shampooing,

and Conditioning

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

“Ability is what you’re capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do.

Attitude determines how well you do it.”

– Lou Holtz

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Objectives

• Explain the two most important requirements for scalp care.

• Describe the benefits of scalp massage.

• Know how to treat scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or dandruff ridden.

• Explain the role of hair brushing to a healthy scalp.

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• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of shampoo.

• Discuss the uses and benefits of the various types of conditioner.

• Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a basic shampoo and draping for a chemical service.

• Demonstrate the Three-­Part Procedure and explain why it is useful.

Objectives (continued)

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Scalp Care and Massage

• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation.

• Treatments should be given with a continuous, even motion that stimulates scalp and relaxes client.

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Scalp Treatments

• Given before shampoo

• Given during shampoo

• Relaxation or treatment: only difference is which products used

• Contraindications: medical conditions that may prohibit the service

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Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Purpose: to maintain scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition

• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp examination.

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Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Used if natural oil is deficient

• Treatment products: contain moisturizing and emollient ingredients

• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions with high alcohol content. Use a scalp steamer.

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Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment

• Cause: overactive sebaceous glands

• Purpose: to flush out excess sebum through gentle pressing or squeezing

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Antidandruff Treatment

• Cause: a fungus called malassezia

• Purpose: to suppress the growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales

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Brushing the Hair

• Correct brushing stimulates the blood circulation of the scalp;; helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-­spray buildup;; and gives added shine.

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Hair-­Brushing Exceptions

• Avoid before chemical service

• Avoid if scalp is irritated

• Avoid before haircolor procedures

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Hairbrushes

• Natural bristles: most highly recommended to clean and add luster to the hair

• Nylon bristles: shiny, smooth, and more suitable for hairstyling

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Scalp Analysis

• Dry, dehydrated hair

• Thinning of the hair

• Excessive hair in sink

• Dry, tight scalp

• Oily scalp

• Abnormal flaking on scalp

• Open wounds or scalp irritations

• Scalp disorders or disease

• Tick or lice infestation

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Shampoo Selection

• As a professional, you must become skilled at selecting shampoos that support the health of the hair, whether the hair is natural, color-­treated, fine and limp, or coarse and wiry.

• Product knowledge is critical (read labels).

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Selection Considerations

• Hair type: dry, oily, normal, chemically treated

• Hair condition: overprocessed, chemically treated, damaged by harsh products or improper care, exposure to elements

• Home maintenance

• pH-­balanced shampoos

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Potential Hydrogen (pH)

• The small p represents a quantity.

• The capital H represents the hydrogen ion.

• The amount of hydrogen in a solution is measured on a logarithmic scale ranging from 1 to 14.

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• Acid: 0 to 6.9 pH• Neutral: 7.0 pH• Alkaline: 7.1 to 14 pH• pH-­balanced shampoos: 4.5 to 5.5 pH

Potential Hydrogen (pH) (continued)

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The Chemistry of Water

• Purification– Sedimentation– Filtration– Chlorine added– Boiling– Distillation

• Soft water• Hard water

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The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)

• Water• Surfactant Molecule (surface active agent)– Hydrophilic end

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– Lipophilicend

The Chemistry of Shampoos (continued)

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Types of Shampoos

• pH-­balanced

• Conditioning

• Medicated

• Clarifying

• Balancing

• Dry or powder

• Color-­enhancing

• For hairpieces and wigs

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A Great Shampoo Experience

• Massage for client preference.• Adjust water temperature for client choice.• Don’t wet client’s face.• Double-­check nape area.• Do not drench towel around neck.• Blot hair, not face.• Give relaxation massage.

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Shampooing and Retailing

• Use the shampoo time to better establish your professional relationship with the client and promote quality products for at-­home use.

• During the shampoo give clients information about what you are doing and why.

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Understanding Conditioners

• Deposit protein and moisturizer

• Restore strength and give body

• Protect against breakage

• Types– Rinse-­out– Treatment or repair– Leave-­in

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Formulation

• Silicone and moisture-­binding humectants• Emollients• Synthetic polymers• Proteins

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Other Conditioning Agents

• Spray-­on thermal protectors

• Scalp conditioners

• Medicated scalp lotions

• Scalp astringent lotions

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Deep-­Conditioning Treatments

• Also known as masks or conditioning packs

• Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy cream base of a moisturizer

• Penetrate the cuticle layer

• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and protein is required

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Draping

• Client must be properly draped for each service.

• Shampoo (wet) draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over;; replaced with neck strip and cape

• Chemical-­service draping: two terry towels used, one under cape and one over, which remain during service

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Three-­Part Procedure

• Pre-­service: preparation

• Service: practical service on client

• Post-­service: caring for client after service and clean-­up

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Practical Class

• Pre-­Service Procedure• Post-­Service Procedure• Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment• Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment• Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment• Antidandruff Treatment

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• Brushing the Hair• Draping for a Shampoo• Draping for a Chemical Service• Basic Shampoo and Conditioning• Scalp Massage

Practical Class (continued)

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Summary and Review

• What are the two most important requirements for scalp care?

• How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or with dandruff be treated?

• What are the benefits of scalp massage?

© Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

• Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a healthy scalp and hair?

• What shampoo is appropriate for use on dandruff? On product buildup? On damaged hair?

• What is the action of conditioner on hair?

Summary and Review (continued)

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You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.

Congratulations!