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1/12/2016 VIII. SOUPS. Farmer, Fannie Merritt. 1918. The Boston CookingSchool Cook Book. http://www.bartleby.com/87/0008.html 1/22 Farmer's Cookbook Reference > Farmer's Cookbook > SOUPS EGGS SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK CONTENTS · BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD Chapter VIII. SOUPS. It cannot be denied that the French excel all nations in the excellence of their cuisine, and to their soups and sauces belong the greatest praise. It would be well to follow their example, and it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making. How may a hearty dinner be better begun than with a thin soup? The hot liquid, taken into an empty stomach, is easily assimilated, acts as a stimulant rather than a nutrient (as is the popular opinion), and prepares the way for the meal which is to follow. The cream soups and purées are so nutritious that, with bread and butter, they furnish a satisfactory meal. 1 Soups are divided into two great classes: soups with stock; soups without stock. 2 Soups with stock have, for their basis, beef, veal, mutton, fish, poultry, or game, separately or in combination. They are classified as:— 3 Bouillon, made from lean beef, delicately seasoned, and usually cleared. Exception,— clam bouillon. 4 Brown Soup Stock, made from beef (twothirds lean meat, and remainder bone and fat), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. 5 White Soup Stock, made from chicken or veal, with delicate seasonings. 6 Consommé, usually made from two or three kinds of meat (beef, veal, and fowl being employed), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. Always served clear. 7 Lamb Stock, delicately seasoned, is served as mutton broth. 8 Soups without stock are classified as:— 9 Cream Soups, made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small amount of cream and seasonings. Always thickened. 10 Purées, made from vegetables or fish, forced through a strainer, and retained in soup, milk, and seasonings. Generally thicker than cream soup. Sometimes White Stock is added. 11 Bisques, generally made from shellfish, milk, and seasonings, and served with fish dice; made similarly to purées. They may be made of meat, game, or vegetables, with small dice of the same. 12 Various names have been given to soups, according to their flavorings, chief ingredients, the people who use them, etc. To the Scotch belongs Scotch Broth; to the French, Potau feu; to the Indo, Mulligatawny; and to the Spanish, Olla Podrida. 13 SOUP MAKING The art of soup making is more easily mastered than at first appears. The young housekeeper is startled at the amazingly large number of ingredients the recipe calls for, and often is discouraged. One may, with but little expense, keep at hand what is essential for the making of a good soup. Winter vegetables—turnips, carrots, celery, and onions— 14
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Page 1: Chapter VIII. SOUPS - WordPress.com › 2016 › 01 › chapter-8-s… · 8 Soups without stock are classified as:— 9 Cream Soups, made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small

1/12/2016 VIII. SOUPS. Farmer, Fannie Merritt. 1918. The Boston Cooking­School Cook Book.

http://www.bartleby.com/87/0008.html 1/22

Farmer's Cookbook

Reference > Farmer's Cookbook > SOUPS

EGGS SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK

CONTENTS · BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD

Chapter VIII. SOUPS.

It cannot be denied that the French excel all nations in the excellence of their cuisine, andto their soups and sauces belong the greatest praise. It would be well to follow theirexample, and it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making. Howmay a hearty dinner be better begun than with a thin soup? The hot liquid, taken into anempty stomach, is easily assimilated, acts as a stimulant rather than a nutrient (as is thepopular opinion), and prepares the way for the meal which is to follow. The cream soupsand purées are so nutritious that, with bread and butter, they furnish a satisfactory meal.

1

Soups are divided into two great classes: soups with stock; soups without stock. 2

Soups with stock have, for their basis, beef, veal, mutton, fish, poultry, or game,separately or in combination. They are classified as:—

3

Bouillon, made from lean beef, delicately seasoned, and usually cleared. Exception,—clam bouillon.

4

Brown Soup Stock, made from beef (two­thirds lean meat, and remainder bone and fat),highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs.

5

White Soup Stock, made from chicken or veal, with delicate seasonings. 6

Consommé, usually made from two or three kinds of meat (beef, veal, and fowl beingemployed), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. Always servedclear.

7

Lamb Stock, delicately seasoned, is served as mutton broth. 8

Soups without stock are classified as:— 9

Cream Soups, made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small amount of cream andseasonings. Always thickened.

10

Purées, made from vegetables or fish, forced through a strainer, and retained in soup,milk, and seasonings. Generally thicker than cream soup. Sometimes White Stock isadded.

11

Bisques, generally made from shell­fish, milk, and sea­sonings, and served with fishdice; made similarly to purées. They may be made of meat, game, or vegetables, withsmall dice of the same.

12

Various names have been given to soups, according to their flavorings, chief ingredients,the people who use them, etc. To the Scotch belongs Scotch Broth; to the French, Pot­au­feu; to the Indo, Mulligatawny; and to the Spanish, Olla Podrida.

13

SOUP MAKINGThe art of soup making is more easily mastered than at first appears. The younghousekeeper is startled at the amazingly large number of ingredients the recipe calls for,and often is discouraged. One may, with but little expense, keep at hand what is essentialfor the making of a good soup. Winter vegetables—turnips, carrots, celery, and onions—

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may be bought in large or small quantities. The outer stalks of celery, often not suitablefor serving, should be saved for soups. At seasons when celery is a luxury, the tips androots should be saved and dried. Sweet herbs, including thyme, savory, and marjoram, aredried and put up in packages, retailing from five to ten cents. Bay leaves, which should beused sparingly, may be obtained at first­class grocers’ or druggists’; seeming never to losestrength, they may be kept indefinitely. Spices, including whole cloves, allspice berries,peppercorns, and stick cinnamon, should be kept on hand. These seasonings, with theaddition of salt, pepper, and parsley, are the essential flavorings for stock soups. Flour,cornstarch, arrowroot, fine tapioca, sago, pearl barley, rice, bread, or eggs are added togive consistency and nourishment. In small families, where there are few left­overs, fresh meat must be bought for themaking of soup stock, as a good soup cannot be made from a small amount of poormaterial. On the other hand, large families need seldom buy fresh meat, provided all left­overs are properly cared for. The soup kettle should receive small pieces of beef (roasted,broiled, or stewed), veal, carcasses of fowl or chicken, chop bones, bones left from lambroast, and all trimmings and bones, which a careful housewife should see are sent from themarket with her order. Avoid the use of smoked or corned meats, or large pieces of rawmutton or lamb surrounded by fat, on account of the strong flavor so disagreeable tomany. A small piece of bacon or lean ham is sometimes cooked with vegetables forflavor.

15

Beef ranks first as regards utility and economy in soup making. It should be cut from thefore or hind shin (which cuts contain marrow­bone), the middle cuts being most desirable.If the lower part of shin is used, the soup, although rich in gelatin, lacks flavor, unless acheap piece of lean meat is used with it, which frequently is done. It must be rememberedthat meat, bone, and fat in the right proportions are all necessary; allow two­thirds leanmeat, the remaining one­third bone and fat. From the meat the soluble juices, salts,extractives (which give color and flavor), and a small quantity of gelatin are extracted;from the bone, gelatin (which gives the stock when cold a jelly­like consistency) andmineral matter. Gelatin is also obtained from cartilage, skin, tendons, and ligaments.Some of the fat is absorbed; the remainder rises to the top and should be removed.

16

Soup­stock making is rendered easier by use of proper utensils. Sharp meat knives,hardwood board, two purée strainers having meshes of different size, and a soup digester(a porcelain­lined iron pot, having tight­fitting cover, with valve in the top), or coveredgranite kettle, are essentials. An iron kettle, which formerly constituted one of thefurnishings of a range, may be used if perfectly smooth. A saw, cleaver, and scales,although not necessary, are useful, and lighten labor.

17

When meat comes from market, remove from paper and put in cool place. When ready tostart stock, if scales are at hand, weigh meat and bone to see if correct proportions havebeen sent. Wipe meat with clean cheesecloth wrung out of cold water. Cut lean meat inone­inch cubes; by so doing, a large amount of surface is exposed to the water, and juicesare more easily drawn out. Heat frying­pan hissing hot; remove marrow from marrow­bone, and use enough to brown one­third of the lean meat, stirring constantly, that allparts of surface may be seared, thus preventing escape of juices,—sacrificing a certainamount of goodness in the stock to give additional color and flavor, which is obtained bycaramelization. Put fat, bone, and remaining lean meat in soup kettle; cover with coldwater, allowing one pint to each pound of meat, bone, and fat. Let stand one hour, thatcold water may draw out juices from meat. Add browned meat, taking water from soupkettle to rinse out frying­pan, that none of the coloring may be lost. Heat gradually toboiling­point, and cook six or seven hours at low temperature. A scum will rise on the top,which contains coagulated albuminous juices; these give to soup its chief nutritive value;many, however, prefer a clear soup, and have them removed. If allowed to remain, whenstraining, a large part will pass through strainer. Vegetables, spices, and salt should beadded the last hour of cooking. Strain and cool quickly; by so doing, stock is less apt toferment. A knuckle of veal is often used for making white soup stock. Fowl should beused for stock in preference to chicken, as it is cheaper, and contains a larger amount ofnutriment. A cake of fat forms on stock when cold, which excludes air, and should not be

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removed until stock is used. To remove fat, run a knife around edge of bowl and carefullyremove the same. A small quantity will remain, which should be removed by passing acloth wrung out of hot water around edge and over top of stock. This fat should beclarified and used for drippings. If time cannot be allowed for stock to cool before using,take off as much fat as possible with a spoon, and remove the remainder by passing tissueor any absorbent paper over the surface.

How to Clear Soup StockWhites of eggs slightly beaten, or raw, lean beef finely chopped, are employed forclearing soup stock. The albumen found in each effects the clearing by drawing to itselfsome of the juices which have been extracted from the meat, and by action of heat havebeen coagulated. Some rise to the top and form a scum, others are precipitated.

19

Remove fat from stock, and put quantity to be cleared in stew­pan, allowing white andshell of one egg to each quart of stock. Beat egg slightly, break shell in small pieces andadd to stock. Place on front of range, and stir constantly until boiling­point is reached; boiltwo minutes. Set back where it may simmer twenty minutes; remove scum, and strainthrough double thickness of cheesecloth placed over a fine strainer. If stock to be clearedis not sufficiently seasoned, additional seasoning must be added as soon as stock has lostits jelly­like consistency; not after clearing is effected. Many think the flavor obtainedfrom a few shavings of lemon rind an agreeable addition.

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How to Bind SoupsCream soups and purées, if allowed to stand, separate, unless bound together. To bind asoup, melt butter, and when bubbling add an equal quantity of flour; when well mixed addto soup, stirring constantly until boiling­point is reached. If recipe calls for more flourthan butter, or soup is one that should be made in double boiler, add gradually a portion ofhot mixture to butter and flour until of such consistency that it may be poured into themixture remaining in double boiler.

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SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCKBrown Soup Stock

6 lbs. shin ofbeef

1 sprigmarjoram

3 quarts coldwater

2 sprigsparsley

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

Carrot

1/2 cup each,cut in dice

6 cloves Turnip1/2 bay leaf Onion

3 sprigsthyme Celery

1 tablespoon saltWipe beef, and cut the lean meat in inch cubes. Brown one­third of meat in hot frying­panin marrow from a marrow­bone. Put remaining two­thirds with bone and fat in soupkettle, add water, and let stand for thirty minutes. Place on back of range, add brownedmeat, and heat gradually to boiling­point. As scum rises it should be removed. Cover, andcook slowly six hours, keeping below boiling­point during cooking. Add vegetables andseasonings, cook one and one­half hours, strain, and cool as quickly as possible.

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Bouillon

5 lbs. lean beef 1

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from middle ofround

tablespoonsaltCarrot

1/3 cupeach,cut indice

2 lbs. marrow­bone Turnip

3 quarts coldwater Onion

1 teaspoonpeppercorns Celery

Wipe, and cut meat in inch cubes. Put two­thirds of meat in soup kettle, and soak in waterthirty minutes. Brown remainder in hot frying­pan with marrow from marrow­bone. Putbrowned meat and bone in kettle. Heat to boiling­point; skim thoroughly, and cook attemperature below boiling­point five hours. Add seasonings and vegetables, cook onehour, strain, and cool. Remove fat, and clear. Serve in bouillon cups.

Tomato Bouillon with Oysters1 can tomatoes 6 cloves

11/2 quarts bouillon1/2 teaspooncelery seed

1 tablespoonchopped onion

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

1/2 bay leaf 1 pint oystersMix all ingredients except oysters, and boil twenty minutes. Strain, cool, and clear. Addparboiled oysters, and serve in bouillon cups with small croûtons.

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Iced Bouillon

Flavor bouillon with sherry or Madeira wine, and serve cold.

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Macaroni Soup

1 quart Brown Soup Stock Salt1/4 cup macaroni, broken inhalf­inch pieces.

Pepper

Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and add to stock heated to boiling­point. Season with salt and pepper. Spaghetti or other Italian pastes may be substituted formacaroni.

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Tomato Soup with Stock

1 quart BrownSoup Stock

1/3 cupflour

1 can tomatoes Onion

1/4 cup eachcut in dice

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

Carrot

1 small bay leaf Celery

3 cloves Rawham

3 sprigs thyme Salt4 tablespoons

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butter Pepper

Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes, add flour, peppercorns, bayleaf, cloves, and thyme, and cook three minutes; then add tomatoes, cover, and cookslowly one hour. When cooked in oven it requires less watching. Rub through a strainer,add hot stock, and season with salt and pepper.

Turkish Soup5 cups Brown SoupStock 2 slices onion

1/4 cup rice10peppercorns

11/2 cups stewed andstrained tomatoes

1/4 teaspooncelery salt2 tablespoonsbutter

Bit of bay leaf11/2tablespoonsflour

Cook rice in Brown Stock until soft. Cook bay leaf, onion, peppercorns, and celery saltwith tomatoes thirty minutes. Combine mixtures, rub through sieve, and bind with butterand flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper if needed.

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Creole Soup

1 quart Brown SoupStock Salt

1 pint tomatoes Pepper3 tablespoonschopped greenpeppers

Cayenne

2 tablespoonschopped onion

2 tablespoonsgratedhorseradish

1/4 cup butter1 teaspoonvinegar

1/3 cup flour1/4 cup macaronirings

Cook pepper and onion in butter five minutes. Add flour, stock, and tomatoes, and simmerfifteen minutes. Strain rub through sieve, and season highly with salt, pepper, andcayenne. Just before serving add horseradish, vinegar, and macaroni previously cookedand cut in rings.

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Julienne Soup

To one quart clear Brown Soup Stock, add one­fourth cup each carrot and turnip, cut inthin strips one and one­half inches long, previously cooked in boiling salted water, andtwo tablespoons, each, cooked peas and string beans. Heat to boiling­point.

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Dinner Soup

31/2 lbs. lean beeffrom round

2 tablespoonsbutter

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2 lbs. marrow­bone Carrot 1/3 cup,each2 qts. cold water Turnip

1 can tomatoes Onion cut insmallpieces

1 teaspoonpeppercorns Celery

1 tablespoon salt 1 sprigparsley

1 tablespoon leanraw ham, finelychopped

1/2 bayleaf

Wipe meat and cut in inch cubes. Put one­half in kettle with marrow­bone, water, andtomatoes. Brown remaining half in hot frying­pan with some marrow from bone, then turninto kettle. Heat slowly to boiling­point, and cook at temperature just below boiling­pointfive hours. Cook ham and vegetables with butter five minutes, then add to soup with peppercorns,salt, parsley, and bay leaf. Cook one and one­half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat,and clear.

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Bortchock Soup

6 lbs. shin ofbeef 2 sprigs parsley

3 qts. cold water 2 stalks celery1 cup carrotcubes 1 beet finely cut

1/2 cup slicedonion

1 tablespoon salt

6 cloves 1 teaspoonpeppercorns

1 allspice berry 2 tablespoons butterPrepare and cook beef same as for Bouillon. Cook vegetables in butter five minutes; thenadd to soup with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one­half hours, strain, cool quickly,remove fat, and clear. When ready to clear, add one cup finely chopped raw beet and one­fourth cup vinegar. Select red beets for this soup, and serve as soon as possible afterclearing, otherwise it will lose its bright red color, which makes the dish especiallyappropriate for an American Beauty Dinner.

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Ox­tail Soup

1 small ox­tail1/2 teaspoonsalt

6 cups Brown Stock Few grainscayenne

Carrot 1/2 cup each,cut in fancyshapes

1/4 cupMadeira wine

Turnip1 teaspoonWorcestershireSauce

Onion 1/2 cup each,cut in small 1 teaspoon

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Celery pieces lemon juice

Cut ox­tail in small pieces, wash, drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour,and fry in butter ten minutes. Add to Brown Stock, and simmer one hour. Then addvegetables, which have been parboiled twenty minutes; simmer until vegetables are soft,add salt, cayenne, wine, Worcester­shire Sauce, and lemon juice.

Scotch Soup3 lbs. muttonfrom fore­quarter

1/2 onion

2 qts. cold water 1/4 cup flour

1/2 tablespoonsalt

1/4 cup, each,cut in smallcubes

1/4 teaspoonpepper

Carrot

2 slices turnip Turnip2 tablespoons pearl

barleyWipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut meat in small pieces. Add water, heat graduallyto boiling­point, skim, and cook slowly two hours. After cooking one hour, add salt,pepper, turnip, and onion. Strain, cool, remove fat, reheat, and thicken with flour dilutedwith enough cold water to pour easily. Cook carrot and turnip dice in boiling salted wateruntil soft; drain, and add to soup. Soak barley over night, in cold water, drain, and cook inboiling salted water until soft; drain, and add to soup. If barley should be cooked in thesoup, it would absorb the greater part of the stock. Barley may be omitted; in that casesprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve with croûtons.

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White Soup Stock I

3 lbs. knuckle ofveal 1 large stalk celery

1 1b. lean beef1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

3 quarts boilingwater

1/2 bay leaf

1 onion 2 sprigs thyme6 slices carrot 2 cloves

French ChefWipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces; cut beef in pieces, put bone andmeat in soup kettle, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to boiling­point; drain, throwaway the water. Wash thoroughly bones and meat in cold water; return to kettle, addvegetables, seasonings, and three quarts boiling water. Boil three or four hours; the stockshould be reduced one half.

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White Soup Stock II

4 lbs. knuckle ofveal

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

2 quarts coldwater 1 onion

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1 tablespoon salt 2 stalks celeryBlade of mace

Wipe meat, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Put meat, bone, water, andseasonings in kettle. Heat gradually to boiling­point, skimming frequently. Simmer fouror five hours, and strain. If scum has been carefully removed, and soup is strained throughdouble thickness of cheesecloth, stock will be quite clear.

White Soup Stock IIIThe water in which a fowl or chicken is cooked makes White Stock.

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Chicken Soup with Wine

3 1b. fowl 1 onion, sliced2 quarts coldwater 2 stalks celery

2 slices carrot Bit of bay leaf1 tablespoonsalt

2 tablespoonsSauterne wine

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

1 teaspoon beefextract

1 cup cream Salt PepperWipe and cut up fowl. Cover with water, and add carrot, salt, peppercorns, onion, celery,and bay leaf. Bring quickly to boiling­point, then let simmer until meat is tender. Removemeat and strain stock. Chill, remove fat, reheat, and add wine, beef extract, and cream.Season with salt and pepper.

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French White Soup

4 lb. fowl1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

Knuckle ofveal

1/2 tablespoon salt

3 qts. coldwater

1 tablespoon lean rawham,

1 onion, sliced finely chopped6 slices carrot 4 tablespoons butter1/2 bay leaf 3 tablespoons flour

1 sprig parsley 1 cup cream1/2 teaspoonthyme

Yolks 2 eggs

Wipe, clean, and disjoint fowl. Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Putmeat, bone, and water in kettle, heat slowly to boiling­point, skim, and cook slowly fourhours. Cook vegetables and ham in one tablespoon butter five minutes, add to soup withpeppercorns and salt, and cook one hour. Strain, cool, and remove fat. Reheat three cupsstock, thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together, and just before servingadd cream and egg yolks. Garnish with one­half cup cooked green peas and ChickenCustard cut in dice.

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White Soup

5 cups White Stock 2 cups scalded

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III milk

1/2 tablespoon salt3 tablespoonsbutter

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

4 tablespoonsflour

1 slice onion Yolks 2 eggs1 stalk celery Salt and pepper

Add seasonings to stock, and simmer thirty minutes; strain, and thicken with butter andflour cooked together; add scalded milk. Dilute eggs, slightly beaten, with hot soup, andadd to remaining soup; strain, and season with salt and pepper. Serve at once or soup willhave a curdled appearance.

Chicken Soup6 cups White StockIII 2 stalks celery

1 tablespoon leanraw ham,

1/2 bay leaf

finely chopped1/4 teaspoonpeppercorns

6 slices carrot, cutin cubes 1 sliced onion

1/3 cup hot boiled riceAdd seasonings to stock, heat gradually to boiling­point, and boil thirty minutes; strain,and add rice.

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Turkey Soup

Break turkey carcass in pieces, removing all stuffing; put in kettle with any bits of meatthat may have been left over. Cover with cold water, bring slowly to boiling­point, andsimmer two hours. Strain, remove fat, and season with salt and pepper. One or two outerstalks of celery may be cooked with carcass to give additional flavor.

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Hygienic Soup

6 cups White StockIII

2 tablespoonsbutter

1/4 cup oatmeal2 tablespoonsflour

2 cups scalded milk Salt and pepperHeat stock to boiling­point, add oatmeal, and boil one hour; rub through sieve, add milk,and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper.

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Farina Soup

4 cups WhiteStock III 1 cup cream

1/4 cup farinaFew gratings ofnutmeg

2 cups scaldedmilk Salt and pepper

Heat stock to boiling­point, add farina, and boil fifteen minutes; then add milk, cream, andseasonings.

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Spring Soup

1 quart White Stock Ior II 1 cup milk

1 large onion thinlysliced 1 cup cream

3 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoonsflour

1/2 cup stale baker’sbread

Salt and pepper

Cook onion fifteen minutes in one tablespoon butter; add to stock, with bread broken inpieces. Simmer one hour; rub through sieve. Add milk, and bind with remaining butterand flour cooked together; add cream, and season.

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Duchess Soup

4 cups White StockIII

1/3 cup butter

2 slices carrot, cut incubes

1/4 cup flour

2 slices onion 1 teaspoon salt

2 blades mace1/8 teaspoonpepper

1/2 cup grated mildcheese

2 cups scaldedmilk

Cook vegetables three minutes in one and one­half tablespoons butter, then add stock andmace; boil fifteen minutes, strain, and add milk. Thicken with remaining butter and flourcooked together; add salt and pepper. Stir in cheese, and serve as soon as cheese is melted.

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Potage à la Reine

4 cups White StockIII

1/3 cup crackercrumbs

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

Breast meat froma boiled

1 stalk celery Chicken

1 slice onion 2 cups scaldedmilk

1/2 tablespoon salt 1/2 cup cold milk

Yolks 3 “hard­boiled” eggs

3 tablespoonsbutter

3 tablespoons flourCook stock with seasonings twenty minutes. Rub yolks of eggs through sieve. Soakcracker crumbs in cold milk until soft; add to eggs. Chop meat and rub through sieve; addto egg and cracker mixture. Then pour milk on slowly, and add to strained stock; boilthree minutes. Bind with butter and flour cooked together.

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Royal Soup

1 cup stale bread 11/2 cups

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crumbs scalded milk

1/2 cup milk31/2 cupsWhite

Yolks 3 “hard­boiled”eggs Stock III

Breast meat from aboiled chicken

21/2tablespoonsbutter

Salt and pepper21/2tablespoonsflour

Soak bread crumbs in milk, add yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve and chicken meatalso rubbed through a sieve. Add gradually milk, and chicken stock highly seasoned. Bindwith butter and flour cooked together, and season with salt and pepper.

St. Germain Soup3 cups White StockI, II, or III Blade of mace

1 can Marrowfatpeas

2 teaspoonssugar

1 cup cold water 1 teaspoon salt

1/2 onion1/8 teaspoonpepper

Bit of bay leaf 2 tablespoonsbutter

Sprig of parsley 2 tablespoonscornstarch

1 cup milkDrain and rinse peas, reserving one­third cup; put remainder in cold water withseasonings, and simmer one­half hour; rub through sieve and add stock. Bind with butterand cornstarch cooked together; boil five minutes. Add milk and reserved peas.

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Imperial Soup

4 cups White StockIII

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

2 cups stale breadcrumbs Bit of bay leaf

2 stalks celery,broken in pieces Blade of mace

2 slices carrot, cut incubes 1 teaspoon salt

1 small onion1/2 breast boiledchicken

3 tablespoons butter1/3 cup blanchedalmonds

Sprig of parsley 1 cup cream

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2 cloves 1/2 cup milk

2 tablespoons flourCook celery, carrot, and onion in one tablespoon butter five minutes; tie in cheeseclothwith parsley, cloves, peppercorns, bay leaf, and mace; add to stock with salt and breadcrumbs, simmer one hour, remove seasonings, and rub through a sieve. Chop chickenmeat and rub through sieve; pound almonds to a paste, add to chicken, then add cream.Combine mixtures, add milk, reheat, and bind with remaining butter and flour cookedtogether.

Veal and Sago Soup

21/2 lbs. lean veal2 cups scaldedmilk

3 quarts coldwater Yolks 4 eggs

1/4 lb. pearl sago Salt and pepperOrder meat from market, very finely chopped. Pick over and remove particles of fat.Cover meat with water bring slowly to boiling­point, and simmer two hours, skimmingoccasionally; strain and reheat. Soak sago one­half hour in enough cold water to cover,stir into hot stock, boil thirty minutes, and add milk; then pour mixture slowly on yolks ofeggs, slightly beaten. Season with salt and pepper.

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Asparagus Soup

3 cups White Stock IIor III

1/4 cup butter

1 can asparagus 1/4 cup flour

2 cups cold water 2 cups scaldedmilk

1 slice onion Salt and pepperDrain and rinse asparagus, reserve tips, and add stalks to cold water; boil five minutes,drain, add stock, and onion; boil thirty minutes, rub through sieve, and bind with butterand flour cooked together. Add salt, pepper, milk, and tips.

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Cream of Celery Soup

2 cups White Stock IIor III

3 tablespoonsflour

3 cups celery, cut ininch pieces 2 cups milk

2 cups boiling water 1 cup cream1 slice onion Salt2 tablespoons butter Pepper

Parboil celery in water ten minutes; drain, add stock, cook until celery is soft, and rubthrough sieve. Scald onion in milk, remove onion, add milk to stock, bind, add cream, andseason with salt and pepper.

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Spinach Soup

4 cups White Stock II orIII

1/4 cupbutter

2 quarts spinach 1/3 cup flour

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3 cups boiling water Salt2 cups milk Pepper

Wash, pick over, and cook spinach thirty minutes in boiling water to which has beenadded one­fourth teaspoon powdered sugar and one­eighth teaspoon of soda; drain, chop,and rub through sieve; add stock, heat to boiling­point, bind, add milk, and season withsalt and pepper.

Cream of Lettuce Soup21/2 cups White Stock IIor III

1 tablespoonbutter

2 heads lettuce finely cut Yolk 1 egg

2 tablespoons rice Few grainsnutmeg

1/2 cup cream Salt

1/4 tablespoon onion,finely chopped

Pepper

Cook onion five minutes in butter, add lettuce, rice, and stock. Cook until rice is soft, thenadd cream, yolk of egg slightly beaten, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Remove outer leavesfrom lettuce, using only tender part for soup.

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Mushroom Soup

1/2 lb. mushrooms1 cup boilingwater

4 cups White StockIII

1 cup heavycream

1/4 cup pearl sago Yolks 2 eggs

Salt and pepperClean and chop mushrooms, and add to stock. Cook twenty minutes and rub through asieve. Cook sago in boiling water thirty minutes, add to stock, and as soon as boiling­point is reached, season with salt and pepper; then add cream and yolks of eggs.

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Cream of Mushroom Soup

1/2 lb. mushrooms 1/4 cup flour

4 cups White Stock III 1 cup cream1 slice onion Salt1/4 cup butter Pepper

2 tablespoons SauterneChop mushrooms, add to White Stock with onion, cook twenty minutes, and rub through asieve. Reheat, bind with butter and flour cooked together, then add cream and salt andpepper to taste. Just before serving add wine.

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Cream of Watercress Soup

2 cups White Stock I, II orIII

1/2 cupmilk

2 bunches watercress Yolk 1 egg3 tablespoons butter Salt

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2 tablespoons flour PepperCut finely leaves of watercress; cook five minutes in two tablespoons butter, add stock,and boil five minutes. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together, add salt and pepper.Just before serving, add milk and egg yolk, slightly beaten. Serve with slices of Frenchbread, browned in oven.

Cream of Cauliflower Soup

4 cups hot White Stock IIor III

1/2 bayleaf

1 cauliflower1/4 cupflour

1/4 cup butter2 cupsmilk

1 slice onion Salt1 stalk celery, cut in inchpieces Pepper

Soak cauliflower, head down, one hour in cold water to cover; cook in boiling saltedwater twenty minutes. Reserve one­half flowerets, and rub remaining cauliflower throughsieve. Cook onion, celery, and bay leaf in butter five minutes. Remove bay leaf, then addflour, and stir into hot stock; add cauliflower and milk. Season with salt and pepper; thenstrain, add flowerets, and reheat.

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Cucumber Soup

3 large cucumbers 1 slice onion2 tablespoons butter 2 blades mace

3 tablespoons flour 1/2 cup cream

3 cups White Stock III Yolks 2 eggs1 cup milk Salt and pepper

Peel cucumbers, slice, and remove seeds. Cook in butter ten minutes; then add flour andstock. Scald milk with onion and mace. Combine mixtures and rub through a sieve.Reheat to boiling­point and add cream and egg yolks. Season with salt and pepper.

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Almond Soup

2/3 cup almonds 3 stalks celery

6 bitter almonds 3 tablespoonsbutter

4 tablespoons coldwater

3 tablespoonsflour

1/8 teaspoon salt2 cups scaldedmilk

3 cups White StockIII 1 cup cream

1 small onion Salt and pepperBlanch, chop, and pound almonds in a mortar. Add gradually water and salt; then addstock, sliced onion, and celery, let simmer one hour, and rub through a sieve. Melt butter,add flour, and pour on gradually the hot liquor; then add milk, cream, and salt and pepperto taste. Serve with Mock Almonds .

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String Bean Soup

4 cups White Stock I, II,or III

1/4 cup flour

2 quarts string beans1/4 cupbutter

2 cups scalded milk Salt andpepper

Cook beans until soft in boiling salted water to cover; drain, and rub through sieve. Addpulp to White Stock, then milk; bind, and season with salt and pepper. Garnish withFritter Beans.

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Soup à la Soubise

Thinly slice two Spanish onions, and cook ten minutes in one­fourth cup butter, stirringconstantly. Add one quart White Stock III, cook slowly thirty minutes, and strain. Dilutethree tablespoons flour with enough cold water to pour easily, add to soup, and bring toboiling­point. Then add one cup cream, and one tablespoon chopped green peppers, orone­fourth cup grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper.

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Chestnut Purée

4 cups White Stock II orIII

2 cupsscaldedmilk

2 cups French chestnuts,boiled and mashed

1/4 cupbutter1/4 cupflour

1 slice onion Salt1/4 teaspoon celery salt Pepper

Cook stock, chestnuts, onion, and celery salt ten minutes; rub through sieve, add milk, andbind. Season with salt and pepper.

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Crab Soup

6 hard­shelled crabs 2 tablespoonsbutter

3 cups White StockIII

2 tablespoonsflour

2/3 cup stale breadcrumbs

1 cup cream

1 slice onion Salt1 sprig parsley Cayenne

Remove meat from crabs, and chop finely. Add stock, bread crumbs, onion, and parsley,and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, bind with butter and flour cookedtogether, then add cream and seasonings. Serve with Pulled Bread.

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Philadelphia Pepper Pot

Slicedonion

1/2 lb. honeycombtripe, cut in cubes

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Choppedcelery

1/4cupeachChopped

greenpeppers

11/2 cups potatocubes

4tablespoonsbutter

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns, finelypounded

31/2tablespoonsflour5 cups hotWhiteStock III

3/4 tablespoon salt

1/2 cup heavy creamCook vegetables in three tablespoons butter fifteen minutes; add flour, and stir until wellmixed; then add remaining ingredients except cream. Cover, and let cook one hour. Justbefore serving, add cream and remaining butter.

Mulligatawny Soup5 cups White Stock II 1/4 cup butter

1 cup tomatoes 1/3 cup flour

Onion, cutin slices

1/4 cupeach

1 teaspooncurry powder

Carrot, cutin cubesCelery, cutin cubes Blade of mace

1 pepper, finelychopped 2 cloves

1 apple, sliced Sprig of parsley1 cup raw chicken,cut in dice Salt and pepper

French ChefCook vegetables and chicken in butter until brown; add flour, curry powder, mace, cloves,parsley, stock, and tomato, and simmer one hour. Strain, reserve chicken, and rubvegetables through sieve. Add chicken to strained soup, season with salt and pepper, andserve with boiled rice.

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Mock Turtle Soup

1 calf’s head 2 cups brown stock

6 cloves 1/4 cup butter

1/2 teaspoonpeppercorns

1/2 cup flour

6 allspiceberries

1 cup stewed andstrained tomatoes

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2 sprigs thyme1/3 cup slicedonion

Juice 1/2 lemon

1/3 cup carrot,cut in dice

Madeira wine

Clean and wash calf’s head; soak one hour in cold water to cover. Cook until tender inthree quarts boiling salted water (to which seasoning and vegetables have been added).Remove head; boil stock until reduced to one quart. Strain and cool. Melt and brownbutter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly brown stock. Add head­stock, tomato, one cup face­meat cut in dice, and lemon juice. Simmer five minutes; addRoyal custard cut in dice, and Egg Balls, or Force­meat Balls. Add Madeira wine, and saltand pepper to taste.

Consommé3 lbs. beef, poorer partof round

2 tablespoonsbutter

1 lb. marrow­bone 1 tablespoonsalt

3 lbs. knuckle of veal 1 teaspoonpeppercorns

1 quart chicken stock 4 clovesCarrot

1/3 cup each,cut in dice

3 sprigs thyme

Turnip 1 sprigmarjoram

Celery 2 sprigsparsley

1/3 cup sliced onion 1/2 bay leaf

3 quarts cold waterCut beef in one and one­half inch cubes, and brown one­half in some of the marrow frommarrow­bone; put remaining half in kettle with cold water, add veal cut in pieces,browned meat, and bones. Let stand one­half hour. Heat slowly to boiling­point, and letsimmer three hours, removing scum as it forms on top of kettle. Add one quart liquor inwhich a fowl was cooked, and simmer two hours. Cook carrot, turnip, onion, and celery inbutter five minutes; then add to soup, with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one­halfhours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear.

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Consommé à la Royal

Consommé, served with Royal custard.

71

Consommé au Parmesan

Consommé, served with Parmesan Pâte à Chou.

72

Consommé Colbert

To six cups Consommé add one­third cup each of cooked green peas, flageolets, carrotscut in small cubes, and celery cut in small pieces. Serve a poached egg in each plate ofsoup.

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Consommé aux Pâtes

Consommé, served with noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, or any Italian pastes, first cooked inboiling salted water.

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Consommé d’Orleans

Consommé, served with red and white quenelles and French peas.

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Consommé with Vegetables

Consommé, served with French string beans, and cooked carrots cut in fancy shapes withFrench vegetable cutters.

76

Consommé Princess

Consommé, served with green peas and cooked chicken meat cut in small dice.

77

Claret Consommé

To one quart Consommé add one and one­half cups claret, which has been cooked with athree­inch piece stick cinnamon ten minutes and one tablespoon sugar. Color red.

78

Bortchock Consommé

Make same as Consommé, adding one­third cup chopped beets with vegetables; then addone cup finely chopped beets when clearing.

79

SOUPS WITH FISH STOCKClam Bouillon

Wash and scrub with a brush one­half peck clams, changing the water several times. Putin kettle with three cups cold water, cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened.Strain liquor, cool, and clear.

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Oyster Stew

1 quart oysters 1/4 cup butter

4 cups scalded milk 1/2 tablespoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepperClean oysters by placing in a colander and pouring over them three­fourths cup coldwater. Carefully pick over oysters, reserve liquor, and heat it to boiling­point; strainthrough double cheesecloth, add oysters, and cook until oysters are plump and edgesbegin to curl. Remove oysters with skimmer, and put in tureen with butter, salt, andpepper. Add oyster liquor strained a second time, and milk. Serve with oyster crackers.

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Scallop Stew

Make same as Oyster Stew, using one quart scallops in place of oysters.

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Oyster Soup

1 quart oysters Sprig of parsley4 cups milk Bit of bay leaf

1 slice onion 1/3 cup butter

2 stalks celery 1/3 cup flour

2 blades mace Salt and pepperClean and pick over oysters as for Oyster Stew; reserve liquor, add oysters slightlychopped, heat slowly to boiling­point, and let simmer twenty minutes. Strain throughcheesecloth, reheat liquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milkwith onion, celery, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add to oysterliquor. Season with salt and pepper.

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French Oyster Soup1 quart oysters 1/3 cup butter

4 cups milk 1/3 cup flour

1 slice onion Yolks 2 eggs2 blades mace Salt and pepper

Make same as Oyster Soup, adding yolks of eggs, slightly beaten, just before serving.Garnish with Fish Quenelles.

Oyster Soup, Amsterdam Style

1 quart oysters 1/2 teaspoon salt

Water Paprika3 tablespoons butter Celery salt

31/2 tablespoons flour 1 cup creamClean, pick over, chop, and parboil oysters; drain, strain through cheesecloth, and add toliquor enough water to make one quart liquid. Brown butter, add flour, and pour ongradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor. Let simmer one­half hour. Season withsalt, paprika, and celery salt, and just before serving add cream.

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Oyster Gumbo

1 pint oysters 1/2 can okra

4 cups Fish Stock1/3 cantomatoes

1/4 cup butter Salt

1 tablespoon choppedonion Pepper

Clean, pick over, and parboil oysters; drain, and add oyster liquor to Fish Stock. Cookonion five minutes in one­half the butter; add to stock. Then add okra, tomatoes heatedand drained from some of their liquor, oysters, and remaining butter. Season with salt andpepper.

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Fish Stock is the liquor obtained by covering the head, tail, skin, bones, and smallquantity of flesh adhering to bones of fish, with cold water, bringing slowly to boiling­point, simmering thirty minutes, and straining.

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Clam Soup with Poached Eggs

1 quart clams 2 tablespoons flour

4 cups milk 11/2 teaspoons salt

1 slice onion 1/8 teaspoon pepper

1/3 cup butter Few gratings nutmeg

White 1 eggClean and pick over clams, using three­fourths cup cold water; reserve liquor. Put asidesoft part of clams; finely chop hard part, add to liquor, bring gradually to boiling­point,strain through cheesecloth, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milkwith onion, remove onion, add milk, seasonings, and soft part of clams. Bring to boiling­point and pour over whites of eggs beaten stiff.

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Clam and Oyster Soup

1 pint clams Sprig of parsley1 pint oysters Bit of bay leaf

4 cups milk 1/3 cup butter

1 slice onion 1/3 cup flour

2 blades mace Salt and pepperClean and pick over oysters, using one­third cup cold water; reserve liquor, and addoysters slightly chopped. Clean and pick over clams, reserve liquor, and add to hard partof clams, finely chopped; put aside soft part of clams. Heat slowly to boiling­point clamsand oysters with liquor from both, let simmer twenty minutes and strain throughcheesecloth. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together and add soft part of clams.Scald milk with onion, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add milk tostock. Season with salt and pepper.

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Cream of Clam Soup

Make same as French Oyster Soup, using clams in place of oysters.

90

Clam Consommé

Wash two quarts clams in shell. Put in kettle with one­fourth cup cold water, cover, andcook until shells open. Strain liquor through double thickness cheesecloth, add to fourcups consommé and clear.

91

Clam and Chicken Frappé

Wash and scrub with a brush two quarts clams, changing water several times. Put in kettlewith one­half cup cold water, cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened.Remove clams from shells and strain liquor through double thickness cheesecloth. To oneand two­thirds cups clam liquor add two and one­half cups White Stock III, highlyseasoned. Cool, and freeze to a mush. Serve in place of a soup in frappé glasses, andgarnish with whipped cream.

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Clam and Tomato Bisque

1 quart clams 2 cups cream

11/2 cupscold water

1 cup stewed andstrained tomatoes

1/3 cup butter

1/3 flour 1/3 teaspoon soda

1/2 onion Salt

CayennePour water over clams, then drain. To water add hard part of clams finely chopped. Heatslowly to boiling­point, cook twenty minutes, then strain. Cook butter with onion fiveminutes; remove onion, add flour and gradually clam water. Add cream, soft part ofclams, and as soon as boiling­point is reached, tomatoes to which soda has been added.Season with salt and cayenne, and serve at once.

93

Oyster Bisque

1 quart oysters Bit of bay leaf2 cups White StockIII

2 tablespoonsbutter

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11/2 cups stale breadcrumbs

2 tablespoonsflour

1 slice onion 4 cups scaldedmilk

2 stalks celery SaltSprig of parsley Pepper

Clean and pick over oysters, reserving liquor, setting aside soft portions, and choppinggills and tough muscles. Cook White Stock, bread crumbs, reserved liquor, choppedoyster, onion, celery, parsley, and bay leaf thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, bring toboiling­point, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add milk, soft portion ofoysters, and salt and pepper to taste.

Cream of Scallop Soup

1 quart scallops 1 tablespoonchopped onion

4 cups milk 5 tablespoons butter

2 cloves 1/4 cup flour

Bit of bay leaf Salt1/4 teaspoonpeppercorns

Pepper

Clean scallops, reserve one­half cup and finely chop remainder. Add these to milk, withseasonings and two tablespoons butter, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Strain andthicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together. Parboil reserved scallops, andadd to soup. Serve with small biscuits or oysterettes.

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Lobster Bisque

2 lb. lobster 1/4 cup butter

2 cups cold water 1/4 cup flour

4 cups milk 11/2 teaspoons salt

Few grains of cayenneRemove meat from lobster shell. Add cold water to body bones and tough end of claws,cut in pieces; bring slowly to boiling­point, and cook twenty minutes. Drain, reserveliquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with tail meat oflobster, finely chopped; strain, and add to liquor. Season with salt and cayenne; then addtender claw meat, cut in dice, and body meat. When coral is found in lobster, wash, wipe,force through fine strainer, put in a mortar with butter, work until well blended, then addflour, and stir into soup. If a richer soup is desired, White Stock may be used in place ofwater.

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CONTENTS · BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD

EGGS SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK

Shakespeare · Bible · Strunk · Anatomy · Nonfiction · Quotations · Reference · Fiction · Poetry

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