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Chapter 8: Woven Fabrics and Their Properties

Dates back 9,000 years ago in the Middle EastMost common method of forming fabricFabric is also called:◦ Cloth◦ Material◦ Piece goods◦ Goods

Components of Woven Constructions

WarpWeft (filling)BiasFaceBackSelvageGrain

Properties of Fabric

Warp◦ Set of yarns that run lenghtwise on a piece of woven

fabric◦ Parallel to selvedge (ends)

Fill (weft)◦ yarns that run horizontally across the width of a piece

of woven fabric◦ Perpendicular to the warp yarns

Bias◦ A line or cut across a fabric that is not at right angles

to the side of a fabric

Fabric Face and Back, Top and Bottom

Face – front side of fabricBack – back side of fabricTop (up position)◦ Some fabrics are noticeably different when viewed

from the top and bottom◦ Corduroy, velvet, velveteen, fleece

Bottom (down position)

Characteristics of Fabric Face

FABRIC FACE:◦ Usually smoother and more lustrous◦ If printed, the print is usually clearer and brighter◦ When aesthetics finishes are applied, the finish is

more pronounced on the face◦ In stain and twill weaves, the floats of the weave are

on the face◦ In fancy weaves, the desing may be clear on the front

but not the back

Characteristics of Fabric Back

FABRIC BACK:◦ Knots and imperfections are usually on the back◦ If printed, the print is less distinct and duller ◦ Tentering marks are usually more noticeable on the

back.

(tentering is used to straighten the grain of the fabric)

Characteristics of Warp

Warp:◦ Run parallel to selveges◦ Usually thinner yarn◦ Stronger ◦ Have more twist◦ Greater in numbers◦ Straighter and more parallel◦ If filament and staple yarns used in fabric, the warp is

usually the filament yarn.

Characteristics of Weft / Fill

Weft / Fill:◦ 90 degrees / perpendicular to the selvege◦ Bulkier◦ Weaker◦ Less twist◦ Unbalanced◦ If filament and staple yarns used in fabric, staple is

usually used in the weft / fill.

Thread Count and Balanced Fabric

Thread Count◦ # of yarns in 1 square inch◦ Used to determine quality◦ Higher yarns per inch = higher quality fabric

Balanced Fabric◦ Has the same # of yarns in the warp / filling (weft)◦ Tends to be more durable◦ Sheeting is an example of a balanced weave

Characteristics of Woven Fabrics

Grain◦ Refers to the relationship between the warp +

fill/weft.◦ Perfect perpendicular = on grain / grain perfect

Selvage – we will get to in few slides

Very little stretch◦ Major difference between woven and knitted

fabrics

Parts of a loom

Warp beamHarnessHeddlesShedShuttleReed/dentsBeatingCloth roll

Parts of a loom

Warp beam◦ Cylinder where warp yarns are wound

Harness◦ Holds heddles in place – usually more than oneHeddles◦ Wire or cord with eyelets that hold warp yarns

in place

Shed◦ Where the filling yarn is inserted

Parts of a loom

Shuttle◦ Holds the filling yarn◦ This is thrown thru the shed

Reed/dents◦ Comblike device that pushes filling yarns into place

Beating◦ To beat the filling yarn with the reed into the

completed cloth

Cloth roll◦ Cloth that has been woven rolls up into a cylinder

Conventional Shuttle Looms Vs. Shuttleless Looms

Two main types of looms:◦ Shuttle looms

Noisy, only insert about 200 picks per minute

◦ Shuttless loomsQuieter and much faster

◦ 4 kinds of shuttleless looms:Air-jet looms*Projectile loomsRapier looms*Water-jet looms

4 Kinds of Shuttleless Looms (pg 124-125)

Air-jet loom◦ A jet of air propels the filling yarn across the shed

Projectile loom◦ A gripper carries the filling yarn across the shed

Rapier loom◦ A rapier (rod or tape) carries the filling yarn across

the shed

Water-jet loom◦ A high-pressure jet of water carries the filling yarn

across the shed

Selvages + Other Looms (pg 125)

Circular loomDouble-width loomMultiphase loomTriaxial loom

Selvages ◦ Runs parallel to the warp yarns◦ Forms the lengthwise edges of the woven fabric◦ In shuttleless looms – fringes on both sides◦ See figure 8.5 pg 125

Variables in Woven Construction

A great deal of variety may be created by manipulating the following:◦ Fiber content◦ Yarn type and twist◦ Fabric count◦ Coloration◦ Finishes

Basic WeavesPlain or tabby◦ Simplest◦ Most commonly used◦ weft goes over one warp and then under one warp.

Characteristics of Plain Weave

Smooth surfaceWears wellRavels lessWrinkles moreLess absorbent

Plain Weave Structure

Common Plain Weave FabricsSwatches #45 - #57

BatisteCalicoChallisChambrayChintzCretonneDuckGinghamMuslinOrgandyOrganzaPercalePrint ClothVoile

Plain Weave Variations

Ribbed◦ Unbalanced weave◦ Noticeable lines on surface

Basket◦ Two or more filling yarns interlaced with two

or more warp yarns

Seersucker◦ Slack-tension weaving

More info on each on following slides

Ribbed Weave Characteristics

Special effect created either in the warp or the weftRib may be very pronounced or not veryUnbalanced weaveWears more quicklyMore likely to exhibit yarn slippage

Rib FabricsSwatches #58 - #63

Bengaline – rib very pronouncedBedford cordBroadcloth – rib not very noticeableDimity - rib easily visibleGrossgrain - rib very pronouncedFaille – rib easily visibleOttoman – rib very pronouncedPoplin – sister to broadclothRepShantungTaffeta - rib not very noticeable

Dimity

25

Grosgrain ribbon

26

Ottoman upholstery

27

Basket Weave Structure

2x2 basket weave

29

Basket Weave Construction

Loosely wovenIdentified by the number of yarns that are interlaced◦ 2 x 2 basket weave◦ 4 x 4 basket weave◦ 3 x 2 basket weave

Variation is the half basket weave◦ 2 x 1 half basket weave

Basket Weave CharacteristicsAppearance◦ Reversible unless the finish or print makes one side the face

Fray easilySnagStretchDue to loose construction, more flexibleWears more quicklyYarn slippageTendency to shrink when washedDifficult to sew

Basket Weave FabricSwatches #64 - 67

SailclothCanvasDuckHopsackingMonk’s clothOxford cloth◦ 2 x 1 half basket

Monk's cloth

33

Twill WeavesTwill◦ Creates diagonal lines on surface of fabric◦ Wales – lines created by weave◦ Float – a yarn that crosses over more than

one yarn at a time

Fabric Appearance◦ Reclining diagonal line◦ Regular diagonal line◦ Steep diagonal line

Twill Weave Appearance continued

Right hand twillLeft hand twillBroken twillEven or regular twillUneven twillWarp faceWeft face

Uneven Twill Drafts

Twill Weave Structure

Twill Characteristics

Yarns are compacted close together◦ Strong, durable construction

Hides soil lodged between diagonal linesReversible ◦ Except that twill line changes direction

Common Twill FabricsSwatches #68 - #72

ChinoDenimDrillFoulard or surahGabardineHerringbone twillHoundstooth checkJeanSerge

Houndstooth worsted wool

42

Herringbone woolen

43

Satin WeaveRefers both to fabric name and weave structures

Satin◦ Weft or fill travels over four or more warp

yarns

Fabric Appearance◦ Satin – warp faced◦ Sateen – weft faced

Fabric Characteristics

Yarn floatsParallel floats so no diagonal lineAs few interlacings as possibleLustrous fabric

Satin Weave Drafts

Satin weave, 4/1–face

47

Common Fabric NamesSwatches #73 - #76

SatinSateenCrepe back satin

Special Weaves

Dobby Weave◦ Small, repeated geometric patterns

Leno Weave◦ Pairs of warp yarn twisted around filling yarns

Jacquard Weave◦ Intricately patterned

More info on each in the upcoming slides

Dobby Weaves

Dobby attachment added to 16-harness (or more) looms◦ Dobby loom

Patterns may have long floats, if so:◦ Snagging◦ Poor abrasion resistance

Dobby Weave FabricsSwatches #77 - #81

Birds-eye ◦ long floats create a small diamond pattern with a dot

in the center◦ Also called diaper cloth

Huck◦ Pebbly surface; used for toweling

Pique◦ Surface pattern; Waffle effect or cord effect

Shirting madras◦ Small geometric design in a striped pattern

Waffle weave◦ Dobby-weave fabric with honeycomb effect

Madras

Leno WeavesSwatches #90 - #91

Pairs of warp yarns are twisted around filling yarnsDoup (leno) harness added to a dobby loomAdds stability to open weave fabricsUsually used in conjunction with other weaves to improve appearance of fabric

Leno Weave Structure

Leno weave marquisette

55

Jacquard WeavesInvented in 1801 by Joseph-Marie JacquardOriginally used punch cards to control each individual threadIndividual thread control means ability to weave picturesToday, most jacquard looms are air-jet looms Fabrics may have long floats, subject to:◦ Snagging◦ Abrasion◦ May be less durable

Jacquard Weave FabricsSwatches #84 - #87

Brocade◦ Evening wear, draperies and upholsteryBrocatelle◦ Draperies and upholsteryDamask◦ Table linens, furnishings and apparelTapestry ◦ Upholstery, handbags and wall hangingsWilton Rugs◦ Cut pile rugs

Tapestry

58

Extra Yarn Weaves

Extra warp or filling yarns create designs resembling embroideryThree methods of incorporating extra yarns into cloth◦ Spot weaving◦ Swivel weaving◦ Lappet weaving

Spot WeavingSwatches #82 & #83

Extra filling yarns ◦ Design on fabric face◦ Long floats on fabric back

Sometimes the floats on the back of the fabric are trimmed and used as the front

Clipped spot–face

61

Swivel WeavingMore durable than spot weavesSpecial attachments holds tiny shuttles with filling yarnsDesign yarns wrapped around warp yarns several times

Lappet Weaving

Extra warp yarns used to create a zigzag designSeldom seen in US except as imported Swiss braids

Woven-Pile WeavesSwatches #92 - #95

Created with three sets of yarns◦ Warp ground yarns◦ Filling ground yarns◦ Pile yarns

Either extra filling or extra warp yarns

Two fabrics types possible◦ Cut-pile fabrics◦ Uncut-pile fabrics

Characteristics of Woven-Pile Fabrics

Durability dependent on:◦ Fiber used in the ground fabric◦ Interlacing of the pile◦ Density of the pile◦ Height of the pile

Direction of pile important◦ Pile of each piece must face the same

direction

Four Methods for Creating Pile Weaves

Wire Method: velvet, frise (frieze)

Filling-Pile Method: corduroy, velveteen

Double-cloth Method: velvet, velour, plush, panne velvet, crushed velvet

Slack-tension or Terry Weave Method: terry cloth

Interwoven Fabrics

Woven from three or more sets of yarn◦ Double cloth◦ Double weave◦ Double faced

Double Cloth, Double Weaves and Double Faced

Double Cloth – swatch #88◦ Melton◦ KerseyDouble Weaves (pocket cloth)◦ MatelasseDouble Faced◦ Appear the same on both sides◦ Some blankets◦ Double-faced satin◦ Double-faced coat interlinings

True double cloth–layers separated

69

Momie WeavesAppearance of small dotsDobby loom constructionMay be a satin weave variation◦ Bark cloth

Interior use

◦ Granite cloth – swatch #79Apparel and interior

◦ Moss crepeapparel

◦ Sand crepe