Chapter 13 FINAL

© 2010 Fairchild Books,A Division of Condé Nast Publications

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c. 1850 - 1869

THE CRINOLINE PERIOD

C H A P T E R T H I R T E E N


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Copyright © 2010Fairchild Publications, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this presentation covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means–graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems–without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-56367-806-6GST R 133004424

CHAPTER THIRTEENTHE CRINOLINE PERIODc. 1850 - 1869


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Important Events Influenced Styles of the Crinoline Period

1850 1851 1852 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1865 1867 1869

1850 – 1870Queen Victoria continues to occupy the

British Throne

1851Isaac M. Singer invents the first

practical sewing machine.

1852Louis Napoleon becomes

Napoleon the Third and the Second French Republic

becomes the Second Empire

1857Hoopskirt or cage crinoline is

introduced

1858Charles Worth opens couture

establishment in Paris

1859Charles Darwin publishes his

theory of evolution in “The Origin of the Species”

1860Charles Worth meets the Empress Eugenie and begins to design her

clothes1861

Reunification of Italy

Giuseppe Garibaldi

1861 -1865Civil War in the United States

1862Congress passes the Morrill Act,

establishing Land Grant Colleges

Justin Smith Morrill

1863Emancipation Proclamation ends slavery in

the United States

1863Ebeneezer Butterick patents the first sized,

paper pattern for clothing.1865Abraham Lincoln is assassinated

1867United States purchases Alaska from the Russians

Check for $7,200,000.001867

Harper’s Bazar, fashion magazine, begins publication1869

Transcontinental railroad completed



The style lines for women’s dress at the beginning of the crinoline period were like those of the late Romantic Period.

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The innovation of the cage crinoline or hoopskirt c. 1857 contributed to the continuing popularity of very wide skirts.

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Hoops to support skirts were not a new idea. They had been used in the 16th and 18th Centuries.



Cartoonists found hoopskirts a rich subject for humor.



Before the adoption of the cage crinoline, women’s rights advocates had attempted to reform women’s dress proposing the bloomer dress.

The support provided by hoops helped to make women’s skirts lighter, therefore less encumbering, and the bloomer costume faded away.



Women’s under drawers were made of cotton.

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Over the under drawers, they placed a chemise.

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Over the chemise, went a corset.

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Over the corset went a camisole or corset cover.

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Next, the hoop was added.

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And then a single petticoat over the hoop. In winter, it might be

made of flannel.

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• Daytime dresses had high necks• Evening dresses had low, often

off-the-shoulder necklines

Dresses were usually two piece, had a full gathered or pleated skirt, and a dropped shoulder line.

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To go outdoors any of several garments might be worn.

• A shawl like this striped silk shawl, or a Kashmir shawl, which had remained popular since the beginning of the century

• A short jacket

• A cape or mantle in either a short or longer length



Accessories of Note

Jewelry

Footwear

Miser’s Purse

Under sleeves and Chemisette

Parasol

A Carriage or Folding Parasol



A man’s undergarments included under drawers and, in cold

weather, perhaps an undershirt.



Over which he placed a shirt, worn with a tie or cravat.



And over that trousers, held up by suspenders.



Next, a vest.



Men could choose from several different jacket types.

• Dress or tailcoat for formal, evening wear• Frock coat for daytime• Sack jacket for less formal occasions



For outdoors, a variety of cloaks, capes, overcoats.



Accessories of Note

Hats

TiesPocket Watch and Fob

Suspenders or Braces



Although both boy and girl toddlers wore skirts, older children were dressed much as adults.



With the opening of the House of Worth in Paris, British-born Charles Worth began the high fashion dressmaking that became know as thehaute couture. His clients were rich, famous and royal women from

all over the world.



Military conflicts inspired some styles

• The Garibaldi Blouse was adapted from the red shirts worn by General Giuseppe Garibaldi’s soldiers

• Zouave jackets, worn by Algerian soldiers, were adopted by an American Civil War regiment.

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Though sports for women were limited, they did have costumes specifically for bathing and riding horseback.

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By the end of the 1860s, the fashionable silhouette had changed.It featured:

Skirt fullness moved more to the back.Not a gathered, but a gored skirtA higher waistline



For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://www.tfc.unt.edu/25/Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/Bath Museum http://www.museumofcostume.co.ukPhiladelphia Museum www.philamuseum.orgMetropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute

www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.aspSmithsonian National Museum of American History, Washington, DC

http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/costume/Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.htmlDrexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

19th Century Shoeshttp://www.northampton.gov.uk/site/scripts/documents_info.php?documentID=142&

pageNumber=8



For Further Study

Paisley Shawlshttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/paisley/paisleyex2.htmlhttp://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/shawls/dp_index.htm

Hoopskirtshttp://www.greenlightwrite.com/hoopskirt.htmhttp://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/2000/156.htmlhttp://www.demodecouture.com/crinoline/

Charles F. Worth, Couturierhttp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm

Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic ClothingArnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York:

Drama Book Specialists.Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.



Image Credits

Image of Cage Crinoline, courtesy of the New York Public Library of Digital Images.

Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, www.antique-lace.com

Image of Cage Crinoline, c. 1860, courtesy of Suzi Clarke, www.suziclarke.co.uk

Image of Harper’s Front Page c. 1867, courtesy of Michael Ward, www.magazineart.org

Various images, courtesy of Violet J. Willis, www.trousseau.net

Image of Drawers, c. 1850-1860, courtesy of Donna Neary, www.heritagestudio.com

Various images, courtesy of Deborah Burke, www.antiquedress.com

Image of Farthingale and Panier, courtesy of www.farthingales.on.ca

Image of Spring Fashions, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.

Image of the Garibaldi Blouse, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.

Image of Swimwear, courtesy of the New York Public Library Digital Image Collection.

Various images, courtesy of Karen Augusta, www.antique-fashion.com

Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; www.clipart.com; Photo Arts; Fairchild Publications, Inc.

Chapter 13 FINAL

Documents

fairchild publications

fairchild books

cage crinoline

crinoline periodc h

crinoline period1850

p t e r t h i r t e

introduced1858charles

species1860charles worth