WWW.LAOAIRLINES.COM | WWW.CHAMPAHOLIDAYS.COM | WWW.CHAMPAMAG.COM LAO AIRLINES IN-FLIGHT MAGAZINE ISSUE 18, AUGUST-SEPTEMBER VOL 03 ISSUE 18 CHAMPA HOLIDAYS TOURS AND GUIDE IN LAOS WWW.CHAMPAMAG.COM shk1jk'8hv']v'.o]tf6oU s]q[,6,.o,N/qo8qd lv',Nmuj-P'.\j xyflt|kdtg2]k; Five Highlights of Adventure Season The Bright Side of Rainy-Day Two Days in Chiang Mai The Lao Coffee Conundrum
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w w w . L a o a i r L i n e s . c o m | w w w . c h a m p a h o L i d a y s . c o m | w w w . c h a m p a m a g . c o m
Five Highlights of Adventure SeasonThe Bright Side of Rainy-DayTwo Days in Chiang Mai The Lao Coffee Conundrum
Dr.Somphone DOUANGDARAPresident of Lao Airlines
Welcome on BoardAfter Lao PDR was awarded the World’s Best Tourism Des-tination 2013 by the European Council on Tourism and Trade, the number of tourists and tour bookings has in-creased at least 15-20 per cent. Despite it being the slow tourism season and because of the international recogni-tion, more tourists wish to come and witness the truth with their own eyes to see whether Laos is suitable for this world award.
Travelling during this rainy period is wonderful because visitors can enjoy Laos’ nature and green forested moun-tain as well as fascinating waterfalls in full swing.
The government of Lao PDR believes the nation’s tourism and commerce sector development policy has a strong strategy to boost economic growth in the forthcoming two to three years, and as part of the country’s prepara-tion to join the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC).
Lao PDR has also signed air transport agreements with Macao, which will launch return direct flights. This pro-vides a great opportunity for Lao Airlines to open more routes to Macao and also for Air Macao to benefit from this agreement. This new route will be in operation in the near future.
GRAPHIC DESIGNER:INSMAI CREATIVE COMMUNICATIONTRANSALATION:MR. ANOUSA KOUNNAVONGPHOTOGRAPHY | JOURNALIST:MARION LE ROUXACCOUNT-fINANCE:MS. KHOUNKHAM CHANTHABOURYCHAMPA HOLIDAYS MAGAzINE IS PRODUCED & PUBLISHED BY INSMAI CREATIVE COMMUNICATION TEL/fAX: (856-21) 223590, 020 22464321
This 18th issue (August/September 2013) of Champa Holidays marks the start of Lao Airlines in-flight magazine’s fourth year
of publication, an anniversary that falls in the country’s rainy season, which we like to refer to as “Adventure Season”.
Time has flown by for our editorial team as they continue to strive to forge ahead, regardless of the weather, to deliver a top-
shelf product for our passengers. As an old proverb says, “Time is like a river, which flows incessantly.” No truer words of this
natural code apply to Champa Holidays as it moves ahead.
Over the past three years, Champa Holidays has endeavored to present readers with only the best and useful articles ranging from Lao PDR’s main tourist sites, to its rich and diverse tradi-
tions and cultures of the nation’s various ethnic minorities.
In the past, we have received emails from tourists presenting positive comments to our editorial team, and this feedback
makes us even more willing to present only the best of the best for our readers. In this issue, our regular contributors, Marion
and Bernie, will take adventure lovers on exciting natural tours available during the rains, as well as ways to stay dry and still
have fun. You will also learn from this issue why Laos has won the 2013 World’s Best Tourism Destination.
Soukhee NorasilpEditor-in-Chief
Editor’s Note
Champa Holidays TestimonialsHow is Champa Holidays doing? The magazine asked frequent readers and the editorial staff just that.
Vice President, Lao Journalists Association“Over the past three years, thanks to Champa Holidays, inbound travellers on Lao Airlines have been able to learn a lot about the country, and, before landing on Lao soil, they were able to make choices in many areas: where to stay, where to taste Lao and international cuisine, and places to visit, be they historical, cultural or natural sites, festivals and events, and shops selling handicrafts. This in-flight magazine is created by people who know and love the country and its hidden trea-sures. They know what is most interesting for the visitor, and enjoy sharing it. This is what makes this magazine so useful, so attractive, so informative, and so essential to every visitor to Laos.”
Somsanouk MixayVice President, Lao Journalists Association
“If comparing Champa Holidays to a human beings growth after three years, you find them starting to speak more clearly, and stand and walk around on their own two feet. Champa Holidays has tackled these first steps, and has gradually gained experience for the next step of becoming the best in-flight magazine by serving readers to generate trust in the maga-zine and Lao Airlines.”
Somsook Sooksavath Advisor of Economic and Commerce Newspaper
"We are very proud to contribute to the ongoing progress of this true travel magazine and to show our invaluable readers the beauty and charm of Laos, Southeast Asia’ gem. I also wish to express my heartfelt gratitude to my hardworking team, all our readers without whom we cannot stand, and a very special thanks to our sponsors."
Phitsamai ChantabouryChampa Holidays Management Team
“I like reading Champa Holidays as, unlike other mainstream publications, it tends to introduce the lesser known destinations, activities, accommoda-tions, dining venues, and handicraft shops, while also offering insight into Laos’ various business sectors. The concise articles fit the short flights and each presents a balanced mix of enter-tainment and information. Topping it off are the excellent photographs and enticing layout.”
Bernie Rosenbloom Bernco-Laos Communications
ບາງສງສຳລບທກຄນ
ຫາຢາງຕອງລອງໃນລະດຝນ
ຜະລດຕະພນບາຈຽງ: ຍຕທຳປອດສານພດ
ຫລບມມໃນມຝນຕກ
ຊຽງໃໝ: ຄວາມທນສະໄໝບນຈບກບປະຫວດສາດ
ປດສະໜາກາເຟລາວ
ລານດຫລວງພຣະບາງ
ແລນອອມເມອງຫວງພະບາງ
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ສາລະບານCoNTENTs 18
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Something for Everyone
Five Highlights of Adventure Season
Lao Farmers and Batieng Products
The Bright Side of Rainy-Day Dining in Vientiane
Chiang Mai: Modernity Meets History & Culture
The Lao Coffee Conundrum
Lanith Luang Prabang Goes for Gold
Run Around Luang Prabang
34 “Champa Holidays magazine is perfect for the short domestic flights I take. The articles are mostly bite-size, quick and easy to read, interesting, and informative, and they cover a variety of topics. The creative writing style and tone make the stories very amusing and memorable, and the photos are top shelf. I always look forward to the next issue.”
Peter SemoneLanith Chief Technical Adviser
Champa Holidays TestimonialsHow is Champa Holidays doing? The magazine asked frequent readers and the editorial staff just that.
“Every time I pick up a Champa Holidays magazine I learn something new about Laos I didn’t know before...even though I’ve lived here many years. There’s always an inter-esting feature about a region of Laos, a local food recipe, or cultural event that I’d never heard of, but immediately want to go check out.” Alexandre Tsuk Managing Director of INTHIRA groupVice-President PATA Laos
Want to get free copy of Champa Holidays, Just call 021-223590 or for home delivery*
“It’s always such a reward to take a seat in a Lao Airline craft and peep at the passengers flicking through the page of Champa Holidays; then I start brainstorming again for the next issue: places, people, projects... The boundaries between work and leisure-time blend, and it seems that it’s all about sharing one’s passion of travelling. Laos offer no shortage of topics to broach and each new issue is another adventure, for all of us at Champa Holidays.”
Marion Le RouxJournalist/Photographer
Don Chan Palace Hotel & Convention, Unit 6 Piawat Village, Sisattanak District, Vientiane, Lao PDR Tel: (856-21) 244 288 Fax: (856-21) 244 111-2 Email: [email protected]
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something for EveryoneBy Bernie Rosenbloom
After attending the award ceremony to pres-ent Laos with the “2013 World’s Best Tourism Destination”, it was time for reflection. What exactly makes Laos such a great place?
ພາຍຫງທເຂາຮວມພທມອບ ລາງວນໃຫສປປລາວ ເປນ
"ປະເທດທໜາທຽວຊມທສດ ໃນໂລກສຳລບປ2013",
ມນເຖງເວລາແລວທຈະຄດຄນ. ສງໃດທເຮດໃຫລາວເປນສະຖານ
ທໆຍງໃຫຍໄດຄແນວນ?
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INSIDE LAOSINSIDE LAOS
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Minister of Information, Culture and Tourism Professor Dr Bosengkham Vongdara, who received the award on Laos’ behalf, and European Council on Tourism and Trade Chairman Dr Anton Caragea, the presenter, hit all the talking points that time allowed: sustainable tourism, community-based tourism, well-preserved historic sites and tradi-tions, ethnic diversity, untouched nature, growing infrastructure.
However, they left the audience to ponder specifics, leading me to the land of products and demographics…a worm-can full of differing desires, perspectives, and expecta-tions. In other words, what draws a 60-something German couple to Laos is likely to be quite different than that of a group of young career-minded Thai women. In fact, the only Lao holiday my household can agree on is visiting the Viengxay Caves.
I thought about the flow of diverse information requests for Lao travel that I’ve received from foreigners over the years, and they all start the same; visitors state their demographic and then their needs.
“I’m a single Australian woman travelling with my eight-year-old son. Can I rent a car and drive from Vientiane to Konglor Cave, and what is the accommodation like?” Aus-tralians are known adventurers. Go to AVR (Asia Vehicle Rental).
“I’m a 24-year-old frenchman travelling alone and want to go on a seven-to-10-day trek in Phongsaly. Who should I contact?” I passed this off to another frenchman, who had dirt biked around the province.
“I’m a birder from Spain. Where should I go?” I mentioned Khammouane Province, as a guesthouse owner told me a Japanese birder had spotted the recently re-discovered bald bul-bul in Ban Nahin, and I had seen “Save the Hornbills” billboards.
Travel agents have said that most of their clients sign up for “Classic Tours”. They say mass tourists want two nights in Vientiane, three nights in Luang Prabang, and maybe two nights in Pakxe. Anything else is niche.
Dr Anton Caragea called Laos an “open-air mu-seum”, where tourists can travel freely throughout the country on an adventure of discovery. My memories flashed to ancient Khmer stone engravings sitting unattended on Champasak’s Khong Island, a wild 4WD ride that hit all of mountain-ous Luang Namtha’s districts, and a cabinet full of tiny 400-year-old Buddhas found by Bolikhamxay villagers just last year.
Caves cut into mountains on the roadside, and can be explored by foot or boat. Waterfalls of all shapes and heights pour over cliffs, with the taps fully open when it rains. Diverse ethnic villages and homestays await after a trek, boat ride, or short drive, and offer opportunities for great cultural exchanges and handicraft finds. And the country oozes “responsible tourism” and spreading the wealth.
Lao offers everything from golfing, cycling, spas, shop-ping and casinos, to riverside beaches, ancient temples, french provincial structures, rocket festivals…the list is endless. So, why is Laos the “2013 World’s Best Tourist Destination”? Quite simply, it has something for everyone.
Once negatively referred to as “Rainy Season” or “Low Sea-son”, Laos’ “Adventure Season” is full of fun. for this Champa Holidays issue, Bernie Rosenbloom uncovers five activities that are exclusive to this time of year, when rivers are high and waterfalls furiously flow. You’ll also find resurgence basins absorbing river overflows and the start of longboat racing season.
photo by greendiscoverylaos.com
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inside Laos highlight five Highlights of Adventure Season
Vientiane-based travel writer, Bernie Rosenbloom, has covered Southeast Asia for more than 15 years. He has authored several Lao provincial guidebooks, and alongside his role as English editor for Champa Holidays, he contributes travel and business articles to various publications. Bernie is also the public relations consultant for Lanith (Lao National Institute for Tourism and Hospitality) and the Luang Prabang Half Marathon.
Lao Farmers and Batieng Products: Fair, organic and Tasty
Handicraft hounds visiting Laos tend to lean towards silk, cotton, bamboo, and cot-ton products. They make great collectables and gifts, but they don’t taste very good.
How about locally processed, organic orange, tamarind, lime, pineapple, passion fruit, lime and coconut jams? Perhaps your palate prefers fruit pastes, juices, teas with herbal infusions, or honey. Sound scrumptious? Look no further than Lao farm-ers Products (LfP) and its sister cooperative Batieng, which guarantees organic origins and fair trade practices for growers. Better yet, you can purchase their products in Europe.
This entrepreneurial ball began rolling in 1986, when the Lao government shifted to a market-based economy. Some felt the change would create unfair competitive advantages for savvy businesspeople, while exploiting farmers and placing pressure on natural resources.
The government addressed these concerns, encouraging tech-nical personnel to work at the grassroots level, and implement a practical mechanism to ensure tangible results. Technical personnel, Sisaliao Savengsuka and Sengdao Vangkeosay, along with management from various ministries jumped into action and created an association to support Lao farmers.
At that time, no government act existed to regulate social organizations, so the group organized an informal voluntary association recognized by the front of National Construction. Then the Association for the Support to Lao farmers’ Commu-nities (ASDSP) was created in france to implement a develop-ment project to provide farmers with access to micro-credit and districts with irrigation systems.
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Where to find LFP and Batieng ProductsIN LAOS, Vientiane: Minimart including Phimphone 3, Phimphone Mai, V Shop, Viengvang, Ekraraklao, and Am, along with Bounnum Tang Frère Supermarket and Simuang Store. Luang Prabang: Chansouk, Nang OA, Thansamai Minimart, Lang Minimart, and Elephant Res. Vang Vieng: Organic Farm. Pakxe: Solabolavene. Xiengkhouang: Bouasone A Na Ou, Sengphet A Ponesavanh
IN EUROPE, France: Artisans du Monde and more than 100 supermarkets under the label “Ethiquable”. Belgium: Oxfarm-Magasins du Monde with 90 stores in Wallonie et à Bruxelles, Oxfam Wereldwinkels in Flandre and Bruxelles, Carrefour, and GB under the Oxfam Fairtrade label. Switzerland: Weltladen, Magasins du Monde, abd Botteghe del Mondo stores. Germany and Austria: Weltladen stores.
ສຳລບຂມນເພມເຕມ, ຄຳຖາມ ແລະ ສງຊ ທານສາມາດຕດຕໄດທFor more information, inquiries and orders, please contact [email protected] or [email protected].
Shortly after, in 1994, the LfP was established to encourage the de-velopment of farming communities, which in turn would work with foreign donors and export their products to stable foreign markets. This opened the door for small organic farming units to engage in steady and fair business relations, the LfP’s two main pillars.
Since then, 200 Bolaven Plateau families have avoided risky monoculture business by continuing to produce tea and other crops under the organic Batieng label, rather than switch crops to trendier coffee. To maintain the initiative, which kicked off in 2001, french company Bapro offers a steady income and fair prices while encouraging agriculture diversification.
Since 2006, products have been certified as organic for European markets. To ensure that LfP and Bapro products remain chemical free, both cooperatives engaged in numerous training activities with all their partner producers, who count on consumer purchases. So for handicraft gourmands wishing to benefit Lao communities, support LfP and Batieng goods. Everyone walks away with a win.
The Bright Side of Rainy-Day Dining in Vientiane Suppose you are strolling along Vientiane’s streets and the rainy-season skies open. Look at the bright side. Here’s your chance to curl up with a warm cup of coffee in a cosy corner of Vientiane, or check out a different eatery.
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Wander into Café Nomad
Standing in an endless line for a visa at the Thai Consul-
ate is not fun. A downpour makes matters worse. You
want this nightmare to end and the answer sits right
across the street at Café Nomad. One day, Xay, a former
staff of the Korean International Cooperation Agency in
Laos, noticed the bored, tired and hungry looks on these
poor visa-seeking souls, and the seeds for Café Nomad
were sown. With a taste for things well done, Xay pres-
ents a simple takeaway menu with great coffee, natural
juices, a delicious selection of paninis, and a trio of
homemade treats: brownies, tiramisu, and cheesecake.
Korean inspired dishes include gingerade and bulgogi
made with mushrooms and fried beef. Café Nomad also
threw in a one-stop visa shop with internet, scanner, and
photocopier. And Xay’s cooking is so good, the warm
atmosphere so right, that locals now flock to his shop.
Location: Bourichane Road across from the Thai Consulate
Everyone loves Italian food and wine, and in 2012, Vientiane added Soul Kitchen to the list. Since then, the bistro’s popularity has soared due its easy-going atmo-sphere and tasty, filling, fresh pizzas and pasta. Stylish black and white tiles line the threshold, before enter-ing a warm, roomful of wooden tables. Soul Kitchen’s pizza selection plays the most prominent role, as they are freshly baked by Andrea, the Italian owner/chef who honed his skills at Italy’s famous Madon-na di Campliglio restaurant. You won’t find a wine list, but ask the staff for the selection. When the house gets full, you might catch Andrea rushing between the kitchen and orchestra of dining-room banter. At the end of Andrea’s hectic day, relax with him at the bar over a glass of limoncello imported from Italy. It’s the perfect way to cap a rainy day.
Location: On Thadeua Road, past Simuang Minimart and That Khao Road, just before reaching the artificial lake
Vegetarian or not, adventurous or not, Lao Kitchen has some-thing for you. With three Lao sisters in charge – one in the kitch-en, the second serving meals, and the third keeping the books – Lao Kitchen is hopping, and its menu is getting funkier as it will soon be offering frogs and fried eggs topped with ants. Of course, they still cook classic Lao dishes spiced with lemongrass, galangal, sour tamarind, kaffir lime leaves, chilli, and pepper wood, along with favourites like duck laap, chicken in pandan leaves, and papaya salad. You can also try a rarely ordered but tasty plate of phan mian, with its mix of Lao herbs, chopped lemon grass, shallots, ginger, chilli, and peanuts wrapped in wild betel leaves. And best of all, Lao Kitchen will soon be selling their selection at minimarts in town.
“Here, every step counts toward making a good coffee”, explains Pop, Naked Espresso’s young owner and barista. And these are words you can actually taste in his cups. Trained in Australia as an accountant, Pop became certificated as a coffee pro at the Sydney Espresso School. Within seven months of opening, word of mouth began drawing crowds of regular costumers, both Lao and foreigners, to Naked Espresso. Inside, you’ll find friendly and dedicated staff trained by Pop, who only serves medium roast blends of prized domestic Arabica, which is milder than Robusta, but packs a caffeine punch. So, put some pizzazz in a rainy day, and swing by Naked Coffee for a boost.
ສະຖານທແມນຕງຢຖະໜນດງປາລານ ເຂດໂພນທນເໜອ www.nakedespressocafe.comLocation: Dongpalan Rd, North Phonsavan; www.nakedespressocafe.com
INSIDE LAOS
w w w. g r e e n d i s c o v e r y l a o s . c o m
Explore LAOSthe LAO way
Trekking, Biking, Kayaking, Rock Climbing, Zip Lining & Elephant Adventures
Day 1: Temples, Flowers, and TeaMy first-day strategy pushed me west to swing by the once royal city’s three iconic temples, check out the flower market, and relax at the comfy Vien Joom On Tea House before braving the night market crowd.
Temple enthusiasts will find no shortage of ancient Buddhist wats to admire, with many dating to the Lanna Kingdom’s golden age during the 15th and 16th centuries, when the city stood as the regional centre for Buddhist literature and learning Pali.
Start your simple temple trek at Wat Chedi Luang. Built in 1391, the temple houses the older Inthakhin City Pillar, a fertility monument at the very middle of the city. In those days, people thought that cities, much like people, had individual identities and must be treated accordingly.
Astrologers, appointed by Chiang Mai’s founding King Mangrai in 1296, decided the city’s “head” should sit in the north, the west side should focus on learning, industry belongs in the east, and the south signified chaos and death. Appropriately, they erected the City Pillar in the city centre, along with a cable system hauling water to the monument’s top during religious events.
from here, a short walk along Rachadamnoen Road reaches Wat Phra Singh and its gates guarded by singhs (lions), as the temple houses the sacred Phra Buddha Sihing statue, after which they named the wat. Of equal interest is the revered statue’s route to reach Chiang Mai, as it travelled from India’s Bodh Gaya City – the place of Buddha’s enlightenment – through Sri Lanka to Thailand’s Ayutthaya and onto Chiang Mai.
Before venturing further west to the third temple, Wat Suan Dok, consider recharging your batteries at Blue House, a newly opened noodle restaurant with a simple blackboard menu offering an inexpensive, tasty lunch backed by the eatery’s must-try dessert: homemade coconut ice cream.
The gate to Wat Suan Dok (flower Garden Temple) is a bit of a haul by foot, and taking a red, public song thaew saves strength, is half the price of a tuk tuk, and well worth the journey, as the temple’s large stretches of grass and numerous white stupas offer several different angles to admire the ground’s notable chedi.
Then hurry to Gaht Dok Mai (the flower market) to ensure you have plenty of time to wander through its alleys of asters, roses, coreopsis, and other blossoms that flourish in the cooler climate of the surrounding highlands.
Across the bridge from the market stands the newly opened British-style Vien Joom On Tea House, with a fashionably early 19.00 closing time. A relaxing tea break after a hectic day might be required before hitting the chaotic night market a few steps away. If this sounds exhausting, it is, and a good night’s sleep is required for the adventure the next day.
I woke early the next morning to take to the hills of Doi Suthep. My aim was to check out the flower gardens at theThai royal family’s winter palace, learn more about Chiang Mai’s history at the city’s Arts and Cultural Centre, shop at Gecko Books, and enjoy noodle soup at Only Khao Soi restaurant.
The cool dawn hours is the best time to head to Doi Suthep Mountain and its winding roads some 16 km northwest of Chiang Mai, as the mist cools the hills, making the 306 steps to the popular Wat Doi Suthep easier to climb. Those reaching the top are rewarded with fine city views capped by the grand gilded temple.
A pleasant hike or five-minute tuk tuk ride from the temple leads to Phra Tamnak Phu Ping, one of the royal family’s winter palaces, where gardens present a variety of flowers that only thrive in the mild weather found on Doi Suthep.
Back in the city, stop at the iconic Three Kings Monument (Sam Kasat) at an auspicious area known as Klang Wiang, where you’ll also find the Chiang Mai Arts and Cultural Centre to help you piece together the city’s intricate past. The museum’s elegant structure dates to 1924, when it served as the Provincial Hall, before being transformed into a learning centre in 1997 to assist visitors in discovering Chiang Mai’s history, culture, and traditions.
for avid readers, Gecko Books at the Tha Pae Gate is heaven on earth. Since its 2000 opening in a wide shop house, Gecko has been offering one of the largest selections of used and selected new books in Southeast Asia. Its central computerized selection makes it easy to find exactly the right book, and just across the street, you can sip on a cup of coffee at Mede Café while reading a few pages from your new purchase.
finally, don’t even think about leaving Chiang Mai without sinking into a bowl of the city’s renowned soft and crispy khao soi noodle soup at Only Khao Soi restaurant on Charoen Phrathet Road near the night market and opposite the Chedi Hotel. Ordering this special dish requires a four-step process: select your main ingredient among chicken, beef, pork, or seafood; choose either flat (Chiang Mai) or round (Mae Salong) noodles; request mild, medium or spicy; and finish of by adding chilli paste, coconut milk, sugar, pickled cabbage, shallots and lemon to the coconut broth.
With a city so crammed with surprises and historic gems, I wanted to stay longer and experience more, but my tuk tuk to the airport beckoned. It was time to go home.
Are you looking for a centrally located hotel in Chiang Mai with a distinctive touch that offers a cool and soothing environment ? Ping Nakara presents a good bet.
Located near the Ping River and within easy walking distance of downtown attractions, the Ping Nakara, with its graceful gingerbread architecture accented by hand-carved framework easily exceeds top-tier hotel guests’ expectations, due in large to its attention to details. The distinguished rooms, exquisite service, plethora of peaceful places to relax, and splendid spa treatments enhance every guest’s stay.
Throughout the 19 luxurious rooms guests will discover the attentive use of natural materials, reflecting Ping Nakara’s concern for the environment.
The hotel’s stylish design is matched by relaxed, yet professional service, which provides for a restful retreat for travellers. The gracious, friendly, and discreet staff greet guests as if they are entering their own home, thus adding a personal touch.
If guests are seeking serenity, the hotel’s most quiet, cosy spots include the poolside veranda, library, and riverside garden. At night, when the carillons tinkle in the breeze, the carved framework diffuses the lighting to deliver an atmosphere reminiscent of Marrakesh or Chiang Mai 20 years ago. It doesn’t get much better than that.
finding Peace at Ping Nakara7Qosk7;k,lts'q[l5dmujxu'okdkik
for those pining for a spa, Ping Nakara presents a little piece of heaven, offering a wide range of treatments based on Ayurvedic techniques including facial rejuvenation, therapeutic body treatments, and herbal rice and milk compresses infused with herbs.
The spa menu also lists Lanna-Thai treatments known for their herbal remedies and the art of healing through massage. The luxurious and peaceful surroundings of each treatment room enhance the enjoyable and comfortable experience.
Add this all up, and you get a more than memorable stay in Chiang Mai, not to forget a good night’s sleep.
135/9 Charoenprathet Road,T. Changklan, A. MuangChiang Mai 50100, ThailandT: 66 5325 2999www.pingnakara.com
A tourist’s view of Lao coffee conjures images of poor farmers toiling to raise their living standard, the Bolaven Plateau’s coffee covered terrain, and the charming Sinouk Coffee Resort’s mani-cured gardens, nature trails, and plantation tours. Buzzwords like “organic” warm the heart, while everyone sings “Kumbaya”.
BUSINESS inside Laos Business The Lao Coffee Conundrum
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Except coffee is a commodity like oil or gold, explained Sanouk Pathana Sekong (SPS) General Manager and Lao Coffee Board (LCB) President Sinouk Sisombat. He has been playing a pivotal role in Lao coffee production since 1994, and his realistic indus-try portrayal might shock some, but he continues pushing Lao coffee into the limelight.
Here’s the deal. Traders at London’s commodity exchange set the global price for Robusta, while their New York counterparts fix Arabica’s cost. What’s their calculus? They have none. Beans organically grown in Laos or fertilized in Columbia aren’t factors. Speculation governs the rate. Will more people consume coffee? This leads to a volatile playing field.
“forecasting coffee prices is like predicting the weather. You may come close, but nothing is certain,” Mr Sisombat said. “Specula-tion amplifies everything. If the price starts moving up, it rises too high, and a slight downturn can trigger a plummet.”
for example, Arabica export prices sank 60 per cent from USD6,800 per tonne in 2011 to today’s USD2,800. Robusta tum-bled 16 per cent between May and June this year to USD1,850. Lao growers harvest Arabica in October andNovember, while farmers pluck Robusta beans in January and february. Care to bet on the picking-time price?
So what’s the upside? Laos exports 95 per cent of its coffee, and they win by selling out. 2012 exports tallied USD80 million, up from 2011’s USD65 million, on shipments soaring 25 per cent to 25,000 tonnes. Mr Sisombat said most volume goes to Vietnam. falling EU purchases has shifted Laos’ target to China, Japan, and Korea.
Higher yields and exports are a plus, with growers dedicating more land to coffee, and in spite of volatile prices, the supply chain from farmer to retailer remains steady. Everyone gets their fair share.
Mr Sisombat emphasised the LCB and government devised a three-part national strategy for the coffee sector. first, raise yields by expanding the land used to grow coffee. Next, increase Laos’ Arabica quality to entice buyers, followed by promoting Lao cof-fee’s superiority.
Strides were made last year when Asia won the World Cup Tasting Championship. “It was the best, most incredible experience of my life,” Mr Sisombat said.
Other initiatives generate income while maintaining fair Trade practices. Much like the Sinouk Coffee Resort, several coffee com-panies now offer coffee tourism experiences and accommodation. A proliferation of upscale Lao cafés serving local brews with pas-tries adds to the coffers, as do domestic blends on store shelves.
The real winners are coffee drinkers and retailers. In spite of price fluctuations, the cost of a Lao cuppa remains about the same, and the bottom line…consumer demand makes Lao coffee attractive to importers.
So global traders can speculate and the export prices may bounce, but as long as Laos focuses on quality and properly certified or-ganic coffee, export and domestic demand will continue to shine.
BUSINESS inside Laos Business The Lao Coffee Conundrum
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Luang Prabang tourism is entering a new era, and it has noth-ing to do with historical or natural sites. Traditions and cultural changes don’t come into play. High-rise hotels aren’t invading, and there’s no upcoming flood of casinos and amusement parks.
No, this next step revolves around service quality and the people, who really make the difference in your experience. And, leading the charge is Lanith’s (Lao National Institute of Tourism and Hospitality) accredited “Passport to Success” programme taught by internationally educated Lao instructors.
Lanith’s award-winning Passport to Success offers a range of customised, two-to-four-day skill training modules that follow ASEAN competency standards. These Lao language mini courses cover food and beverage service and production as well as housekeeping skills, and front office and tour operations.
Each participant receives a “Passport to Success” booklet in which Lanith plots their progress. Those successfully complet-ing the requisite number of modules obtain “Recognition of Achievement” awards: nine to reach bronze status, 12 for silver, and 15 for gold.
This July, the new EUR200,000 Lanith Luang Prabang’s (LLP) hos-pitality complex, funded by Luxembourg, is launching its two-month Passport to Success “Go for Gold” initiative. The rigorous, mostly hands-on training programme covers everything from customer care, safety, and hygiene, to cooking Western food.
Lanith Technical Advisor Mike Loose said, “‘Go for Gold’ offers 15 modules, and if a participant passes them all, they will achieve the Gold Award, which virtually guarantees a solid job with growth potential.”
Mr Loose added that Go for Gold is open to anyone, from those currently employed in tourism and hospitality to family housekeep-ers. He noted applicants appear to be very motivated and eager to learn, as they must pay tuition to attend classes five days a week for two months.
Lanith tapped Luxembourg’s Michelin-rated Chef Pit Wanderscheid to keep an eye on the Go for Gold programme, while running LLP’s 60-seat Balcony Bar & Restaurant, set to open in October.
At his disposal is USD50,000 worth of refrigera-tors, freezers, stoves, sinks, and storage units donated by Hong Kong Polytechnic University. Lanith’s Core Team oversees the hospitality complex and training centre’s operation. Reve-nue from Passport to Success clients and LLP’s facilities stocks the shelves with ingredients, small utensils, and disposable kitchen items.
Located in Ban Khoy at the Nam Dong Bridge, about 3.5 km from the city hub en-route to Kuang Si Waterfalls, LLP offers four guestrooms with snug beds and sizeable balconies overlooking the garden pond, Nam Dong River, and mountain sunsets. LLP also delivers an amply-equipped meeting room with a selection of set menus for coffee breaks and meals.
And then there’s LLP’s signature Balcony Bar & Restaurant, decked out in local wood furnishings and encircled by a wide terrace. The menu features international and local cuisine backed by a well-stocked bar.
The Balcony is well situated to attract tour busses returning from the falls, and cyclers looking for refreshments and great river-and-mountain views just a 15-minute pedal from town. And the service glitters like gold.
Runners will take to Luang Prabang’s roads at 06.00 on 5 October 2013, for the first “La Procession” charity half marathon, and the event is already off to a flying start, with CNN Travel ranking it as one of Asia’s top five destination races.
La Procession is the brainchild of Michael Gilmore, who works in HSBC’s Singapore office, and Bere Olmedo, who was employed at the Amansara hotel in Siem Reap. The pair met by chance while com-peting in the 2011 Angkor Wat Half Marathon.
The two jogged into each other again over Easter last year, while running around Luang Prabang’s peninsula, and the idea for La Procession was born.
Mr Gilmore quickly locked-in enthusiastic finan-cial supporters – Lao Airlines, Aman Resorts, and HSBC – and several local businesses soon climbed onboard to back the charity effort.
He also discovered that the community is extreme-ly enthusiastic. “Local industry, authorities, runners, friends, everyone I speak to see this as such a good idea, and regularly offer to help out, making it something we just have to do.”
CNN Travel pointed out that La Procession is special as 100 per cent of the entry donations goes to friends-International (fI), an award winning international NGO with an upcoming project in Luang Prabang.
fI aims to protect children and youth from all forms of abuse, and support them to reintegrate into society as functional and productive citizens, though organisers said the selection of just one of Laos’ many charitable causes was a challenge.
Mr Gilmore emphasised that sponsors fully cover La Procession’s organisation costs, while entrants make charitable donations to compete. The minimum donation is set at USD200, while Gold Medal runners contribute USD1,000 or more, and all these pro-ceeds go directly to fI. Lao runners are registered separately.
CNN Travel also placed weight on La Procession’s three separate race distances – 7k, 14k, and 21k – over the mostly flat 7-km circuit, which passes many of the UNESCO World Heritage city’s best known sites. The article stated that a full marathon is “a little anti-social, at least in terms of dealing with the post-run pain, and a big part of organising this race is to have a great party.”
Mr Vongdavone, Manager of the Luang Prabang Department of Tourism and Hospitality, said, “It is good to see that the Luang Prabang Half Marathon is receiving such good recognition from the global media like CNN. We are very supportive of this event, as we hope it will show the best of Luang Prabang’s culture and environment to the visiting runners, and that they will choose to come back again and again.”
More than 400 runners had signed up by early June, a good start for La Procession’s target of 800-1,000 participants. Interested runners can find out how to register on the Luang Prabang Half Marathon website. Organisers are also seeking spectators interested in sponsoring participants on the run around Luang Prabang.
Riverside Boutique ResortThe Riverside Boutique Resort consists of thirty four luxury rooms and suites surrounded by tropical gar-dens and centred around a swimming pool.
A Ban Viengkeo, VangViengW www.riversidevangvieng.com
Ban Sabai BungalowsJust a few minutes from the centre of Vang Vieng, these charming bungalows are perfectly set on the banks of the Nam Song River. They also come with great views of the spectacular limestone peaks that surround the area.
A Sisavang Street, Ban Viengkeo, Vang Vieng W www.inthira.com
Nam Lik Eco-villagefor nature lovers and those looking to embrace the great outdoors, the Nam Lik Eco-Village is a dream come true. The resort is designed to work in harmo-ny with nature, as well as various community devel-opment projects in nearby Ban That Wang Monh.
A Nam Lik River Bank, Ban That, VangVieng
Dream Time Eco RetreatLocated about 30 kilometres up the Me-kong from Vientiane near Ban Hom, Dream Time Eco Retreat is off the tourist trail but easy to access. Set in a forest with rock for-mations on a seasonal freshwater stream that flows into the Mekong, this eco retreat offers simple wooden lodges in nature.
W www.dreamtime-laos.com
Vientiane Garden HotelThis newly renovated hotel offers 40 spa-cious rooms with panoramic garden and swimming pool views in the heart of Vientiane’s shopping and dining area. The Vientiane Garden Hotel’s guestrooms de-liver cosmopolitan elegance and comfort to suit the needs of leisure and adventure travellers, and perfect for businesspeople, families, and couples.
A Sihome Road, VTEW vientianegardenhotel.com
Beau Rivage Mekong HotelIdeally situated on the Mekong Riverfront in downtown Vientiane, the popular Beau Rivage’s modern design offers guests new, attractive, modern accommodation and great value.
A fa Ngum Road, Ban Seetarn NeuaW www.hbrm.com
Vientiane
More favourite accommodation choices, visit: www.champamag.com
ACCOMMODATION ADVISOR
Where to stay
KiridaraSet on a hillside surrounded by teak for- ests, this 24-room boutique hotel offers panoram-ic views of Mount Phou Si, with easy access to Luang Prabang Town and its international airport.
A 22/13 North Road, Ban Naviengkham W www.kiridara.com
Muangthong Luang PrabangWith a boutique feel the Muangthong Ho-tel is an impressive complex of 4 two storey buildings, built around a central courtyard and swimming pool. The buildings, with large wooden pillars are of modern Lao design with a french colonial flavour and traditional Lao roofs.
A Oupalathkhamboua Rd., Ban ThatluangW www.muangthonglpb.com
Nong Khiaw Riverside, Muang NgoyLarge comfortable wooden bungalows on stilts offer breathtaking river views and a warm welcome from Danish owner Eskil and his friendly team. The homemade food is ex-cellent. The best place to stay in Nong Khiaw.
A Ban Sop Houn, Muang NgoyW www.nongkiau.com
Luang Prabang
135/9 Charoenprathet Road,T. Changklan, A. MuangChiang Mai 50100, ThailandT: 66 5325 2999www.pingnakara.com
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XiengkhouangAuberge PhouphadengA delightful hilltop resort in beautiful country-side close to Phonsavan, Auberge Phouphadend makes an ideal base for exploring the famous Plain of Jars. fifteen comfortable wooden bunga-lows have been built in-amongst a forest of pine and fern trees.
A Xieng Khouang City Center, Xieng Khouang
OudomxaiCharming Lao HotelClose to the centre of town, the Charming Lao Hotel is ideal for anyone visiting Oudomxai for business or pleasure. All rooms are equipped with modern facilities. Best choice in town.
A Vanghai Village, Xay District, OudomxayW www.charminglaohotel.com
Luang Namtha The Boat Landing, Ban KoneThis premier eco-lodge is a great jump off point for those looking to explore the Nam Ha Protect-ed Area. All the bungalows have been built using local materials and in a local style, while guaran-teeing a comfortable stay. A great choice.
A Ban Kone, Luang NamthaW www.theboatlanding.com
SavannakhetDaoSavanh Resort Rooms offer unique views of the Sedone River, as it flows into the Mekong. Close to a market and Wat Luang, Pakse’s most celebrated Buddhist Pa-goda, it’s also a great place to experience local life. Rooms are clean and comfortable.
A Ban Thahea, Kaisone Phomvihan, SavannakhetW www.daosavanhhtl.com
ChampasakLa Folie Lodgeinconspicuously and splendidly blends into the sur-rounding environment. This presented the hotel’s de-signers with an ambitious challenge, as the property sits on an idyllic Mekong island about 3 km south of Pakxe inside the Vat Phou-Champasak
A Done Daeng, Pathoumphone District, PakseW www.lafolie-laos.com
The River ResortThe Hotel features 14 spacious Riverside rooms boast-ing panoramic views on the Mekong River. The 6 spa-cious Riverview/Pondside rooms have wide terrace views of the Mekong River, unique westerly views of The River’s own rice paddies and the high mountain range and sunsets behind the Resort. facilities : swim-ming pool and private boat landing. A Ban Muangsean, Muang ChampasakW www.theriverresortlaos.com
Mekong Paradise ResortThis boutique hotel of graceful architecture is in a lovely setting right on the banks of the Mekong River well south of the bridge at Pakse. The restful views from rooms, the lobby, and the dining room terrace are of the broad Mekong and green mountains covered in forest.
A Nonsavang 504, Pakse town
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IMPORTANT NOTICE :All schedules/types of aircraft and informations are subject to changewithout prior notice and to government approval. For more information,please contact any Lao Airlines reservation of�ice.
Remarks: All times are local times1=Monday, 2=Tuesday, 3=Wednesday, 4=Thursday, 5=Friday, 6=Saturday, 7=Sunday
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IMPORTANT NOTICE :All schedules/types of aircraft and informations are subject to changewithout prior notice and to government approval. For more information,please contact any Lao Airlines reservation of�ice.
Remarks: All times are local times1=Monday, 2=Tuesday, 3=Wednesday, 4=Thursday, 5=Friday, 6=Saturday, 7=Sunday
*QV4570/QV4571/QV4574/QV4575 Operated by THAI AIRWAYS *QV920/QV921/QV930/QV931 Operated by VIETNAM AIRLINES
The Muangthong hotelWith a boutique feel, the Muangthong Hotel is an impressive complex of 4 two
storey buildings, built around a central courtyard and swimming pool. The building with large wooden pillars of modern Lao design with a French colonial
�avor and traditional Lao roofs, with 9 premier and 25 deluxe rooms.
Hotel serviceTicket & reservation, Lao Airlines �ight check-in at the hotel, tour desk, souvenir
shop, car rental, Airport transfer, restaurant, swimming pool, meeting room.
Room facility Air conditioning, Cable LCD TV, Bathroom with hot & cold water shower, Safety deposit box, Telephone, Hair dryer, Co�ee & tea making facilities, Fully-stocked
mini bar fridge, Free internet Wi-Fi throughout the hotel.
LocationThe Muangthong hotel is located at Ban Thatluang, Luangprabang district, just
5-10 minute to Night market or city centre by walk, and 10 minutes from the Airport by car.
For more information or reservation, please visit our website: www.muangthonglpb.com