CFTI Magazine Inside 2 · Kalraj Mishra, Hon’ble Minister for MSME, visited this Institute on the 17th of September, 2015 and he was immensely pleased and happy ... and staff of

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FOOTWEAR CHRONICLE July - September 2015

It is indeed my pleasure and privilege to come closer to you

through this news journal. Since this journal is a platform to

portray many developmental activities of this Institute, this

letter is bridging the gap between you and this Institute. I am

able to communicate many developmental issues and am able to

receive feedback from you for improving day to day activities of

this Institute. Being a pioneer in the Footwear sector training and

being a well equipped trainer, our goal is to impart a world class

training. We have so far been able to achieve this goal with the

help of experienced Co-ordinators and Trainers. Also, we are

able to achieve the target fixed by LSSC for TNSDC and PMKVY

programmes. In so far as PMKVY programme is concerned

during the quarter July - September 2015 a total number of 750

candidates were trained by this Institute and thus achieved the

target fixed by LSSC. As far as TNSDC programs are concerned,

during the quarter July - September 2015 a total number of 315

candidates were trained and were given placements by various

companies, thus successfully completed the target of 2,000 set by

LSSC.

I am very happy to inform that Shri. Kalraj Mishra, Hon’ble

Minister for MSME, visited this Institute on the 17th of

September, 2015 and he was immensely pleased and happy

about the environment of this Institute and about the training

programmes conducted at this Institute. He went round the

workshop area where practical classes were conducted for the

students and after interacting with students, he expressed his

happiness and entire satisfaction about the facilities extended to

students. It was beyond my imagination that even after reaching

New Delhi, the Hon’ble Minister has expressed happiness about

the overall performance of this Institute through his P.A and

even through Development Commissioner’s Office. I would like

to extend my sincere thanks and appreciation to all the Officers

and staff of this Institute for the full support and co-operation.

I would like to share one more happy news with you. Shri.

Peter Rocklyeft, Chief Moderator from the Leicester College,

Textile Institute, U.K. visited this Institute during the last week

of September, 2015. After examining the students and after

From the Director’s Desk

Shri. K. MURALI

Director, CFTI

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supervising the Institute, he was immensely pleased and has

expressed his happiness about the improvement of standards of

the students and of this Institute as well. Also he has conveyed

his appreciation about the tremendous growth of this Institute

over the years. I would like to extend my sincere thanks and

appreciation to each and every Officer and staff of this Institute

for making this possible.

I am also happy and excited to inform you that after seeing

the enormous success of the newsletter it has been decided that

henceforth the newsletter will be enclosed in the form of a

journal with many interesting articles which were also brought

out by the Institute about the Footwear Industry and will be

brought on quarterly basis.

Special achievements of this Institute

� The growth rate in revenue generation FY 2014-15 is

increased by 209% in comparison to last year with

percentage recovery from 81% to 122 %.

� A new course launched in affiliation with The Textile

Institute, UK for conducting 1½ year Post graduate Higher

Diploma (PGHD) in Footwear technology and Management

Studies.

� CFTI, Chennai as an affiliated training partner to LSSC for

NSDC - STAR & PMKVY Scheme project, and completed

training for 1995 candidates till 31st March 2015 and ranked

as 2nd with pass percentage of 94% in the Leather SSC

rating.

� CFTI, Chennai being an affiliated training partner by LSSC

for conducting Placement Linked Entry level training

programme funded by TNSDC, Govt. of Tamilnadu and

completed training for 2000 candidates till Sep 2015.

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Central Footwear Training Institute is a

Government of India Society functioning

under the aegis of Ministry of MSME

(Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises) as

MSME (Technology Development Centre),

a pioneer institution rendering services in

human resource development for

footwear and allied industry imparting

various training programmes on Footwear

Designing & Manufacturing Technology.

This Institute is the oldest institution

in the country which came into existence

in July 1957 in the name of Central

Footwear Training Centre with the

assistance of Ford Foundation engaged in

providing trained manpower to the shoe

industry. The deparmentally run Central

Footwear Training Centre was converted

into an autonomous institution (A

Government of India Society under

Ministry of SSI) w.e.f. 1.1.96 for better

functional autonomy. The institute has

been modernized with UNDP assistance

under the “National Leather Development

Programme” and is fully equipped with

state of the art machinery to impart

training in the modern methods of

Footwear manufacturing. The affairs of

the Society are governed under the

Chairmanship of Additional Secretary &

Development Commissioner, (MSME),

Ministry of Micro, Small & Medium

Enterprises, Govt. of India with an

objective of quicker implementation of

managerial decisions followed by

Governing Council members from Govt.

of India, State Government of Tamil Nadu

and from the industry.

This institute conducts international

level courses like Two Years Diploma

Course in “Footwear Manufacturing &

Design” in collaboration with Textile

Institute, U.K with approved status and

also other long and short term courses.

CFTI, chennai provides Training,

Consultancy, Testing & Product

development and Common facility

services like Patter grading, Shoe CAD,

Shoe Designing and PU injection

moulding machine.

This institute conducts outreach

programmes like SHG through O/o DC

(MSME) for SC/ST on Leather Goods

making for the entrepreneur development

through out different parts of the country.

In recent past years, the institute in

association with the Footwear Cluster at

Salem and Erode under HRD (Support to

Artisans) has conducted many other

training programmes of HRD (Placement

Linked Skill development Training

program), Primary Level and HRD (Skill

Upgradation Training Program)

Secondary Level in various footwear

companies.

This institute is affiliated as a Training

Partner of NSDC (National Skill

Development Corporation) in Leather

Sector under Ministry of Finance, Govt. of

India through LSSC (Leather Sector Skill

Council) a section 25 company of CLE

(Council of Leather Exports) and

conducted skill development trainings on

approved training courses of NSDC for

ABOUT THIS INSTITUTE

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1993 candidates so far, under the scheme

called National Skill Certification and

Monetary Reward Scheme (STAR). The

core objective of this programme is to

encourage skill development for youth by

providing monetary awards for successful

completion of approved training

programmes.

Since this institute is affiliated with

Leather Sector Skill Council, it conducts a

“Placement linked skill training

program for unemployed Youth” funded

by Tamil Nadu Skill Development

Corporation (TNSDC), Govt. of Tamil

Nadu to facilitate the unemployed

segment to develop the skill solutions

with hands on training by Central

Footwear Training Institute (CFTI,

Chennai) and place them at appropriate

demand in the industry as per the

requisite skilled manpower needed to

sustain the envisioned growth of the

Leather / Footwear, Leather goods and

Leather Garments industry and setting a

foundation for the country to emerge as a

global leader. Approved training courses

of TNSDC to our Sector is as follows:

� Stitchers for Footwear, Leather

Goods and Garments

Manufacturing.

� Cutters for Footwear, Leather

Goods and Garments

Manufacturing.

� Skivers, Splitters, Folders, Pasting

Attachers and Table helpers for

Upper Making in Footwear

Manufacturing.

CFTI, Chennai completed training for

2,000 candidates successfully and placed

around 95% in 38 factories in Tamil Nadu.

For further details contact:

Central Footwear Training Institute,

65/1, GST Road, Guindy,

Chennai - 600 032.

Ph.: 044 - 2250 1529, 2250 1038

Telefax: 044 - 2250 0876

E-mail: [email protected],

Website: www.cftichennai.in

Shri. K. Murali

Director,

[email protected]

Shri Y.V.R. Choudhry

Asst. Director (Tech.)

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The National Skill DevelopmentCorporation has notified “PradhanMantri Kaushal Vikas Yojna (PMKVY)”(a Phase II of the STAR Scheme) whichaims to skill unemployed youth is theflagship outcome based skill trainingScheme of the new Ministry of SkillDevelopment & Entrepreneurship(MSDE).

The objective of the skill certificationand reward scheme is to enable andmobilize a large number of Indian youthto take up outcome based skill trainingand become employable and earn theirlivelihood.

The training courses of PMKVY isbased on the approved QPs (a set ofNational Occupational Standards) to theLeather Sector is as follows:

� Stitchers for Footwear, LeatherGoods and Garments Manufacturing.

� Cutters for Footwear, LeatherGoods and GarmentsManufacturing.

� Pre Assembly Operator (Splitting,Gimping, Ironing, Marking, Edgecoloring, Pasting, Folding &Eyeletting).

� Skiving Operator.

� Lasting Operator.

� Moulding Operator.

Brief Methodology of the implementationof this scheme are:

a. Training will be provided at identifiedcentres by Training Partners.

b. The training duration is for onecalendar month.

c. The time slot will be decided by theIndustry Employer and Trainingpartner.

d. The eligibility criteria is minimum 5thstandard pass with age limit of about18 to 35 years, preferably with UniqueIdentification (UID) i.e. Aadhar card.

e. If the candidates do not possessAadhar card, the training partner willtake the resposibility to get it done.

f. A Bank Account will be opened for allsuccessful candidates by TrainingPartner to distribute the cash reward.

g. All required data of the studentincluding the UID and bank accountshas to be entered into the SDMS database.

h. The Training Partner (CFTI, Chennai)have to enter into a MOU with thefactories before commencing training.

i. The Training Partner (CFTI, Chennai)has to remit the assessment fee (Rs.1,200 per candidate on behalf ofcandidate to LSSC immediate afterenrolment of the candidates in SDMSDatabase.

j. The Training Partner (CFTI, Chennai)will identify the trainers and theTraining of Trainers (TOT) will beconducted for adequate competencyand standard practices.

k. Both practical and theoretical classeswill be conducted in the ratio of 80:20.A technical Handbook, Trainingmaterials and tools will be providedby Training partner to everycandidate.

l. The Training Partner (CFTI) willdepute one trainer and one assistanttrainer for giving training to eachcentre.

m. A Minimum of 85% attendance attraining will be ensured byAssessment Agency.

PRIME MINISTER’S KAUSHAL VIKAS YOJANA (PMKVY PROGRAMME)

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This Institute is affiliated with LeatherSector Skill Council to conduct a“Placement linked skill trainingprogramme for unemployed Youth”funded by Tamil Nadu Skill DevelopmentCorporation (TNSDC), Govt. of TamilNadu to facilitate the unemployedsegment to develop the skill solutionswith hands on training by CentralFootwear Training Institute (CFTI,Chennai) and place them at appropriatedemand in the industry as per therequisite skilled manpower needed tosustain the envisioned growth of theleather / Footwear, leather goods andLeather Garments industry and setting afoundation for the country to emerge as aglobal leader.

Approved training courses of TNSDCto our Sector is as follows:

� Stitchers for Footwear, LeatherGoods and GarmentsManufacturing.

� Cutters for Footwear, LeatherGoods and GarmentsManufacturing.

� Skivers, Splitters, Folders,Pasting Attachers and Tablehelpers for Upper Making inFootwear Manufacturing.

Brief Methodology of theimplementation of this scheme is

(a) Training will be provided at identifiedcentres by Training partners.

(b) The training duration of various jobrole is as follows:

Stitchers - (4 weeks; 26 working dayswith 8 hours per day)

Cutters - (3 weeks; 18 working dayswith 8 hours per day)

Skivers, Splitters, Folders, PastingAttachers & Table helpers - (2 Weeks;12 working days with 8 hours per day)

(c) The batch size will be minimum 30 tobe maximum of 40.

(d) The eligibility criteria is minimum 5thstandard pass, with age between 18-35, and should be a resident of TamilNadu possessing valid Name (IDProof) and Address proof ofunemployed and rural youth as thereservation rules.

(e) The Training Partner (CFTI, Chennai)have to enter into a MOU with theneed based factories to provideplacement on each job roles as per theterms and conditions of salary aftersuccessful training under first cumfirst serve basis.

(f) The Training Partner (CFTI, Chennai)will identify the trainers and theTraining of Trainers (TOT) will beconducted for adequate competencyand standard practices.

(g) The Training Partner (CFTI) willdepute one trainer with additionalassistant if when required for givingtraining to each centre with theapproval and consent from theAuthority.

(h) Both practical and theoretical classeswill be conducted in the ratio of 80:20.A technical Handbook, Trainingmaterials an dtools will be providedby Training Partner to everycandidate.

(i) Training will be provided on Technicalskill along with Soft skill, Health &Safety.

(j) Hands on training on the machineswill be provided by the Trainingpartner.

(k) Each trainee will be assessed byAssessing Body and will finallysubmit the report.

TAMILNADU SKILL DEVELOPMENT CORPORATION (TNSDC) PROGRAMME

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(l) A Minimum of 85% candidatesattendance at training should beensured by Assessment Agency.

(m)The final technical assessment reportas per the guidelines will be strictlyfollowed by the assessment agency,results to award a certificate forsuccessful completion.

(n) The issue of the certificates aftersuccessful completion of training,along with a amount of Rs. 75 per daywill be provided for food andconveyance to the candidates.

(o) The Training Partner will ensure andassist to have placements for everysuccessful candidate after training.

Footwear refers to garments worn on

the feet, for fashion, protection against the

environment, and adornment. Cultures

have different customs regarding

footwear which include not using any in

some situations.

Socks and other hosiery are typically

worn betweent he feet and other footwear,

less often with sandals or flip flops

(thongs).

Durable shoes are a

relatively recent

invention, though many

ancient civilizations wore

ornamental footwear.

Many ancient civilizations

saw no need for footwear.

the Romans saw clothing and footwear as

signs of power and status in society, and

most Romans wore footwear, while slaves

and peasants remained barefoot. The

Middle Ages saw the rise of high-heeled

shoes, also associated with power, and the

desire to look larger than life, and artwork

from that period often depicts bare feet as

a symbol of poverty. Bare feet are also seen

as a sign of humility and respect, and

adherents of many religions worship or

mourn while barefoot, or remove their

shoes as a sign of respect towards

someone of higher standing.

Footwear is sometimes the subject of

sexual fetishism, such as shoe

fetishism or boot fetishism.

In some cultures, people

remove their shoes before

entering a home. Some

religious communities

require people to remove

shoes before they enter holy

buildings, such as temples.

Practitioners of the craft of

shoemaking are called shoemakers,

cobblers, or cordwainer

FOOTWEAR

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Imagine a world where love rules andnot money. Imagine a world where peaceexists and not enmity. Imagine a worldwhere people do not stab at your back.Well all we can do now is just imagine.

Money is a common word amongcommon man. Money is no longer theseed to a fruitful life. It is the key tocorruption!!! Money is what all want butnot all have. There are various reasonswhy money has turned out to be such aweapon against good economy.

Firstly, the human mind has been heldhostage by greed. People never getsatisfied with what they have. They keepwanting more, whether they deserve it ornot they all crave for money. Bribing is thebiggest bane of the Indian society. It ispracticed by rich and poor, exalted andlay. Such is a universality!!! People andmust be blamed equally for such unlawfulacts.

Why is this? Is it because they have aneverlasting thirst for money? Or it isbecause they do not get enoughrecognition and reward for their work? Oris it in this way that government money istransferred to individuals? Is it due toControversies and confusions amongpoliticians and the political parties insolving the issue of corruption? Or is dueto people’s greed to make quick money?the answer for all these queries is in ourown hands!!! Decide yourself!!!

We have seen many patriots in thepast who have brought us freedom. Butare we really free? No, even afterIndependence we are all prisoners of ourown greed, immoralities and inhibitions!!!We must never fail in our duties only theycan we question those who do fail.Only then we can bring about a bigchange.

“WHO CAN PUT AN END TO CORRUPTION?”

NEWS PAPERS - WINDOWS TO THE WORLD

“A good newspaper, I suppose is anation talking to itself” - Arthur Miller.

“I fear three newspapers, more than ahundred thousand bayonets” - Napolean.

News play an important role in dailychores of our life. News can be from anyfields - sports, politics etc. Every state andcountry have their own news channelproviding them latest and breaking newsabout their country or world. Out of allmedia, newspapers are the earliest and theoldest ones. As the name suggests newspapersare a source of news and information. Theyare also a medium of communicationamong the people of the world.

Origin of newspaper

Newspaper was first found in Europein the mid 17th Century. At first thenewspaper was in a single sheet of papercalled a broad sheet. Newspaper today andthose of the past, resemble each other butstill their content have changed a lot overtime. Newspaper in different societies areoften quite different from those you may be

familiar with. Thus it is important to readnewspaper from different times and placescarefully.

Benefits of reading newspaper:

People all over the world likebusinessman, politicians, sports personsand even unemployed youth are benefittedand get information through newspapers.It widens knowledge, keeps known aboutall advances made in the fields of science,education, medicine and technology.

Newspaper is an important pillar in ademoctratic country. It not only keepspeople aware of the views and policies ofthe government, but also of their rights. Itkeeps the government informed of people’swishes, desires and aspirations. It bridgesthe gap between a common man and therulers.

Life without newspaper is very difficultto imagine. It brings us news and viewsfrom all corners of the earth. Therefore,newspapers are certainly the windows ofthe world.

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Nanotechnology is a most promisingfield for generating new applications infootwear industry. However, only fewnanoproducts are currently in use byfootwear industry. A most prominentnano product is nanosilver. Nanosilverparticles are generally smaller than 100nm and contain 20-15,000 silver atoms. Atnanoscale, silver exhibits remarkablyunusual physical, chemical and biologicalproperties. Due to its strong antibacterialactivity, nanosilver coatings are used onvarious textiles (organic or inorganic) aswell as coatings on certain implants.Further, nanosilver is used for treatmentof wounds and burns on or ascontraceptive and marketed as a waterdisinfectant and room spray. Thus, use ofnanosilver is becoming widespread infootwear and related applications due toincreasing exposure toxicological andenvironmental issues need to be raised.

The term “Nanosilver” refers tomicroscopic “nanoparticles” of silver(they’re only a few ten-thousandths of hediameter of a human hair), which overrecent years have been used increasinglyin odor-destroying products including airfresheners, food storage containers, shoeliners and even washing machines. NanoSilver is high efficacious and got thepower to produce an intended effectiveSilver Nanoparticles are nanoparticles ofsilver i.e. silver particles of between 1 nmand 100 nm in size. Uniform silver nanoparticles can be obtained through thereduction of silver ions by ethanol at atemperature of 80°C to 100°C underatmospheric conditions.

Excessive bacterial growth in thewaste from footwear industries (leatherindustries) is the main and commonproblem faced. Many such surfacespromote the growth of microbes. Just afew bacteria are sufficient to initiate theformation of a biofilm(a thin but robust

layer of mucilage adhering to a solidsurface and containing a community ofbacteria and other microorganisms).Inside the biofilm microbes are protectedagainst immune defense and antibiotictreatment. This creates a hazardouscondition in the environment. Theexponential growth of bacterials leads to anoticeable excretion of metabolic productsand smelly substances like HydrogenSulphide (H2S), Methanethiol (CH4S)Methyl isoborneol, Butyric Acid. Growthof bacteria and biofilm creation has to beavoided by extensive cleaning andhygiene procedures. Here comes theapplication of nanosilver: bacteria’s thrivein the damp surfaces and where bacteriathrive, odor thrives too. When NanoSilvers comes in contact with bacterial andfungi, they adversely affect cellularmetabolism and inhibit cell growth andthey finally kill them to almost 100%.Apart from preventing the initial adhesionof biofilm forming microbes, it inhibitsproliferation of pathogenic germs on therelevant surface adding of anantimicrobial agent to the material eitherdirectly during manufacturing or with aspecial coating procedure.

Footwear industry is benefitted a lotdue to the peculiar properties ofnanosilver. Odor-free footwears arehealthier and so much mor pelasant towar. Antifungal, Antibacterial andAntimicrobial properties of nanosilver canbe utilized to our footwears. This is nodoubt that it is safe on our skin. It does notcause allergic reactions and contains noharmful material for the human body. Thedisposal of nanosilver contained materialsto the environment also will not create anyhazards due to its antimicrobial function.This environmentally - friendly fibrecauses no water pollution, for the anti-microbial substance rarely dissolves inwater when dyed or washed. Considering

NANOTECHNOLOGY IN FOOTWEAR

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its lasting and durable function, since theanti-microbial substance is mixed into thepolymer, its function is durablethroughout the lifetime of the footwearretaining all the physical propertiesrequired for the particular component.

Nano silver application in footwearparts / components is becomingwidespread nowadays. A good quality sheinsole is necessary for the health of feet.Experts are making the best functionalinsole using Nanosilver with the basis ofwell-balanced management in health andfunction. The product is essential for thehealth of foot and the elimination of footsmell, as it keeps the shoe pleasant anddried, by absorbing the shock on knee inwalking and injecting fresh air of 35ccbetween toes where foot smell andathlete’s foot lies. Shoe lining are also apart of comfort wear if made of specialmaterials, even though its main purpose isto cover the inside seams of a shoe. It alsogives comfort features such as additionalpadding, or the ability of pull moistureaway from the foot. If nanosilverembedded yarn can be used for preparingshoe linings, it can give an improvedcomfort as well as antimicrobial functionwhile sweating.

The homogenous particlesdistribution of the nanosilver makes iteasy to use / handle / to incorporate intoother materials. It is free of any fillers. It iseasily processable and stable even at hightemperatures (>300°C). Smart productionprocess is one of the cheapest silveradditives on the market, i.e. it is veryeconomic to use. Less than 1 g nanosilverper kg material (0.1%) is sufficient for ahigh antimicrobial efficacy. Nanomaterials have an enhanced sustainabilitywith the ecology because of its peculiarity- silver replaces organic chlorine-containing biocides (a poisonoussubstance, especially a pesticide). Thecomparable effectiveness of nanosilver

will significantly decrease material input.It helps to lower the amounts of Silver tobe mined, transported, manufactured,consumed and recycled as a wholenanotechnology helps to conserve ourpresent resources.

Nanosilver can be incorporated indifferent forms into the footwearcomponents. Liquid Nanosilver is havingthe particle size of 5 nm and is totallymiscible in water. It can be used as anadditive in any water based coatings. It isorange - brown in colour and is practicallyodorless. footwear insole can be coatedwith these kinds of coatings forproduction of safe and odorless soles.These nanosilver particles can also beembedded in the insole using providedtechnology to get antimicrobial andantibacterial properties. In order to getantimicrobial property in variousfootwear industry products, nanosilver isincorporated in the development of monoand and multifilament fibers. It can alsobe used a an additive in the material forthe side walls (lining) of footwear’s. Byincorporating it into the shoe uppercomponent, it is possible for your shoefiber to be durand and anti-equip all.Nanosilver helps to clean the bacterialpolyimide 6 by merely spinning. This isanother polymer which can be used formanufacturing technical fabrics forfootwear. Nanosilver embedded yarns canbe directly used for making shoe liningfabrics.

- By Shreeshma, CFTI

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Regulations and leather industry

The tanning industry uses largenumber of natural and syntheticchemicals to convert the raw hide and skinto leather. The tanneries need to complywith rapidly increasing regulations andspecifications which restrict the use ofmany chemical substances considered tobe hazardous or toxic. There are about 250substanes listed under the restrictedcategory including hexavalent chromium,free formaldehyde, arylamines, chlorophenols and nonyl phenol ethoxylates.Presence of these restricted substances inleather is presumed to pose a serioushealth risk to the consumer and henceleather containing any of thesecompounds is considered as unsafe foruse. The tanneries face the problem ofdischarge of pollutants in effluent on onehand and presence of objectionablechemicals in the finished leathers andleahter products on the other hand. In thepast twenty years, many new qualityspecifications for leather have come intoforce. Many importing counting haveinstitute stringent stipulations for thepersmissible levels of chemicals in leatherand leather products. The Germangovernment imposed a ban on the trade ofleather and leahter products containingmore than 3 ppm of Cr (VI). Theserestrictions have badly affected the Indialleather industry. Therefore theconcentration of these chemicals ismonitored in many countries throughquality specifications. However whenimproving the performance of uniqueleather properties such as water vapourabsorption and permeability, ductility orability to deform under tensile stress, forfootwear, its elegance and durability forupholstery leather, and softness andelegance for garments and leather goodsrequires speciality chemicals. The leatherindustry turn to work towards the

continous improvement of the leathervalue chain through banned of restrictedsubstances.

Formation of Hexavalent Chromium inLeather

The leather auxiliaries such asneutralization chemicals, retanningagents, wetting agents, syntans, dyes, fatliquors, binders and finishes are employedto impart contaminations in Cr (III)tanning agent, certain class of metalcomplex dyes and inorganic pigmentsbased on lead chromate (Graf 2000, Cory2001, Saddington 1999). Apart from directsources, many tools, substances,auxiliaries, chemicals and processparamaters could contribute significantlyfor the conversion of trivalent chromiuminto hexavalent chromium (Rezic & Zeiner2009, Hauber et al 1999, Rydin 2002, Babuet al 2005b, Font et al 1998).

REACH for leather industry

REACH stands for Regulation forRegistration, Evaluation, Authorisationand Restriction of Chemicals. The REACHRegulation entered into force on 1st June2007 to streamline and improve the formerlegislative framework for chemicals of theEuropean Union (EU).

The REACH Regulation calls for theprogressive substitution of the mostdangerous chemicals when suitablealternatives have been identified. Acandidae list of Substance of Very HighConcern (SVHCs) and immediateobligations at 28 October 2008 has beenpublished. A major impact of REACH forretailers, suppliers, tanners and chemicalcompanies is that from 28 October 2008suppliers of articles with SVHCs presentabove 0.1% w/w must provide sufficientinformation to ensure safe use to theircustomers. This information must ensuresafe use of the article and as a minimum,

Restricted substances in leather and leather products

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include the name of the substance.Additional obligations came into force forimporters of articles from 1st June, 2011.

Conclusion

Leather made with state of the arttechnology and chemicals is a very safeproduct. It is possible to manufactureleathers that comply witht he moststringent requirements as to restrictedsubstances and no health risks can be

associated with such leather, which isformed from a natural product. Anti-oxidants cane be used in appropriateprocess of leather processing to preventthe formation of Cr (VI) in leather. Thisrequires the manufacturers take care toselect the appropriate processingchemicals and apply them correctly.

- By Ms. Devikavathi, CFTI

The latest technology development infootwear manufacturing is laser scannedfoot which is then used to developfootwear last when in the basic mouldupon which the footwear ismanufacturing, taking the last as the basicof footwear manufacturing. The foot isgiven extra allowances and reduction atsome area and the last is designed sas therequirement of the diabetic or orthopaedicfoot problems. For example if a patient isat America and needs an orthopaedicfootwear, the patient's foot is scanned atAmerica and the foot captured image withthe help of laser in the scanner is uploadedto a server from America, if themanufacturer is in India. The footcaptured image from America isdownloaded from the server which is thecommon storage space for the foot image.The operator in India dowload the 3dimensional foot image from the common

server and it is stored in the last designingsoftware as per the doctor's footprescription. The last file is transferredfrom the last making software to the CNCmachine which is otherwise known aslathe. The last file can be uploaded to theCNC machine either with pen drive, LANconnection or floppy. The driller in theCNC machine carves out a block of plasticto an end last which is designed by the lastdesigner in the software. Now we havegot the last. After getting the last,designing and pattern making is done.The footwear production can be startedaccording to the doctor's prescription, forexample for a flat foot person arch isincorporated into the insole of thefootwear. Once the footwear is ready, itcan be shipped to the customer. Thedistance is no more a problem nowadaysfor custom made footwear.

- By Thameem Ansari, CFTI

ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY IN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

Imports hit footwear cos. hard

Domestic producers of footwear components

appear to be at the receiving end when

competing with cheaper imports. Which is why,

they are blaming the government for allowing

footwear exporters to import such products at

zero custom duty upto 3% of freight on board

(FOB) value of their exports. Footwear

components listed as duty-free products under

the duty-free import scheme (DFIS), include

poly-eutherine and thermo-plastic rubbers

soles, in-soles sheets...

Budget 2015: Footwear industry says

duty cut to help competitiveness

The Budget proposal to reduce the excise duty

on footwear with leather uppers and having

retail price of over Rs. 1,000 has been

welcomed by the industry, saying the move will

help increase competitiveness. “The footwear

industry is particularly bullish as for shoes

having MRP of above Rs. 1,000 per pair will

now attract half the excise duty by halving the

duty from 12 to 6 per cent,” Libery Footwear

Chief Executive Adesh Gupta said. The move...

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In recent years, it has generally beenaccepted by the diabetes community that"good" footwear prevents foot ulceration.Indeed, it is virtually an axiom of diabetescare that a patient with a history of footulcer is a footwear patient for life (1).Similarly, most health care professionalsbelieve that "bad" footwear is a majorcause of ulceration in diabetes and that inthe past, the fact that most therapeuticfootwear was perceived as "ugly" resultedin poor compliance when such footwearwas prescribed (2). Where is the evidenceto support these beliefs? The last twopoints are easier dealt with than the first.

There are studies that support thebelief that bad or inappropriate footwearcauses ulceration. Apelqvist et al. (3)identified shoes as the precipitating causein the majority of toe ulcers and asignificant minority of lesions elsewhereon the foot. In another European study (4),footwear was implicated as beingcontributory to 21% of all ulcers in a largeseries.

As we identified in an editorial (5) onthe same subject 3 years ago, compliancewith regular wearing of the footwear is amajor problem. In our U.K. center, whenprovided with therapeutic footwear freeof charge, only 22% of patients admittedthat they regularly wore the shoes (2).Similar problems have been reported inthe U.S. (6).

It is unclear whether a patient's perceptionof such footwear as being "ugly" orcosmetically unattractive is a majorcontributory factor to this nonadherencebehavior. Another factor may be thepatient's belief that the home environmentis safe; in a study using continuousactivity monitoring, Armstrong et al. (7)reported that "high-risk" patients weremuch less likely to wear their prescribed

footwear when at home than whenoutside. As such patients are more activewhen in the home (7), this nonadherencemay well be important in the causation ofulcers. The same authors (8) recentlyconfirmed that even patients with activefoot ulcers do not regularly wearremovable cast walkers when advised todo so.

In the current issue of Diabetes Care,Maciejewski et al. (9) attempt to answerthe first point in a structured literaturereview; that is, can therapeutic footwearprevent the occurrence of ulceration? Asno studies have assessed footwear in theprimary prevention of ulcers (1),Maciejewski et al. review those reports onthe prevention of ulcer recurrence. Theyidentified nine studies from a Medlinesearch and determined that in six of them,footwear was a primary intervention, andin three, it was part of a multifactorialintervention. Each study was ratedaccording to the study design and internalconsistency. They conclude in this reviewthat although protective benefit wasfound, a number of these studies mayhave been influenced by design issues.

It is perhaps a little unfortunate thatthe only study that was assigned a studydesign rating of 1 was by the same authorsas those who conducted the review (10).However, having reviewed all of theworks, we would entirely agree that thestudy of Reiber et al. (10) was carefullyand appropriately designed and thuswarranted a level 1 rating. This studycould find no benefits of therapeuticfootwear over the patients' own shoes. Inan exchange of correspondence in theliterature following the publication of thistrial (11-13), surprise was expressed that>40% of patients with an ulcer history hadnormal peripheral sensation. Moreover,

THERAPEUTIC FOOTWEAR IN DIABETESTHE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE UGLY?

14


the definition of an ulcer as a lesion thatdid not heal within 30 days was also apoint of discussion. In their reply, Reiberet al. (13) reported that a subset analysis ofthose patients with sensory loss similarlyshowed no benefit of therapeutic shoes.

Where does this discussion position uswith regard to specialist footwear in 2004?Some years ago, Janisse (14) reviewed "theart and science of footwear design"-at thattime it was more art than science. Morethan 10 years later, the words of Jeffcoateand Harding (15) suggest that little haschanged when they concluded aboutdiabetic foot care in general that "clinicalpractice is based more on opinion thanscientific fact."

There can be little doubt that there isan urgent need for well-designed studies

of footwear in both the primary as well asthe secondary prevention of neuropathicfoot ulceration. Evidence from theliterature as reviewed briefly above andby Maciejewski et al. (9) in this issueremains equivocal. Surely, in the 21stcentury we should be moving towardcomputer-aided design and manufactureof footwear. In addition, as recentlydemonstrated (7,8), modern technologynow permits the accurate assessment ofcompliance with footwear provision,which could potentially remove anotherconfounding variable in such studies.

Whereas bad shoes cause ulcers and"ugly" shoes are likely to remain in thecloset, a major effort is required todemonstrate that good shoes do actuallybenefit our high-risk patients.

Varieties of Footwear

Types of Boots

� Chukka boots

� Combat boots

� Fashion boots

� Go-go boots

� Hiking boots

� Kinky boots

� Motorcycle boots

� Mukluk

� Platform boots

� Riding boots

� Russian boots

� Derby boots

� Thigh-length boots

� Ugg boots

� Valenki

� Veldskoen

� Waders

� Wellington boots

� Winklepicker

Indoor Footwear

� Slippers

� Socks

Specific Footwear

� Ballet shoes

� High-heeled footwear

� Climbing shoes

� Clogs

� Footbal boots

� Sabaton

� Safety footwear

� Ski boots

� Snowshoes

� Surgical shoe

� Pointe shoes

� Swimfins (flippers)

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Abstract: Footwear is the product to protect human feet from effects of all biological

damages. Many companies use to concentrate different segment like men’s-wear,

women’s-wear and children’s-wear separately. Footwear industry has been giving

considerable amount of employment to the nation especially weaker sections and

minority sections of society in India. Population growth, exports, domestic markets are

the factors of expansion of footwear industry and creation of employment opportunities

in this sector. This case study reveals the production capacities, structure of industry,

exports growth, global imports, per capita consumption and estimates of Human

Resources future requirements in footwear industry in India.

Keywords: Indian Footwear Industry, HRD in Indian Footwear Industry, HRD for

footwear, Footwear Industry, Shoe Industry, Per Capita Consumption of footwear in

India, Production Capacities in Footwear Industry

I. INTRODUCTION

Footwear is the product to protect human feet from effects of all biological damages.

Footwear industry is age old traditional industry in India and it has been changed

structurally into different segments like casual-wears, dress-wears and sportswear. New

segment is emerging for medical purposes as medical-wear like diabetic footwear. Many

companies use to concentrate different segment like men’s-wear, women’s-wear and

children’s-wear separately. Footwear industry has been giving considerable amount of

employment to the nation especially weaker sections and minority sections of society in

India. Population growth, exports, domestic markets are the factors of expansion of

footwear industry and creation of employment opportunities in this sector. This case

study reveals the production capacities, structure of industry, exports growth, global

imports, per capita consumption and estimates of future requirements of human

resources in footwear industry in India.

CONCENTRATION OF FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY IN INDIA: The major production of

footwear manufacturing concentrated in these centers.

� Tamil Nadu - Chennai, Ambur, Ranipet, Vaniyambadi, Trichy, Dindigul

� Maharashta - Mumbai

� West Bengal - Kolkata

� Uttar Pradesh - Kanpur, Agra & Noida

� Punjab, Jallandhar, Ludhiana

� Karnataka - Bangalore

� Andhra Pradesh - Hyderabad

� Haryana - Ambala, Gurgaon, Panchkula and Karnal

� Delhi and Surroundings

A STUDY ABOUT INDIAN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

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MICRO, SMALL & MEDIUM ENTERPRISES IN INDIAN FOOTWEAR SECTOR

According to Micro, Small & Medium Enterprises, Government of India estimates thatthere are 20463 units registered as working enterprises, with employment of 97,741people, with the networth of Rs. 3993.99 crores in micro, small & medium enterprises inIndia. These units are having Rs.737.17 crores in Plant and Machinery investment andRs.2324,94 crores in fixed assets and Gross output of Rs.6008.77 crores. All these units aremanufacturing all kinds of footwear like leather, non-leather and other types of footwear.These units had the 1.31 percentage in the total Indian units of 1563974 (100%) in micro,small & medium enterprises in India.[1]

PRODUCTION CAPACITIES OF INDIAN LEATHER INDUSTRY: As per Council forLeather Exports, Chennai estimates, India produces 2065 million pairs of differentcategories of footwear (leather footwear - 909 million pairs, leather shoe uppers - 100million pairs and non-leather footwear - 1056 million pairs). India exports about 115million pairs. Thus, nearly 95% of its production goes to meet its own domesticdemand.[2]

Leather shoes and uppers are manufactured in medium to large-scale units and thesandals and chappals are manufactured in the household and cottage sector. The industryis poised for adopting the modern and state-of-the-art technology to suit the exactinginternational requirements and standards. India produces more of gent’s footwear whilethe world’s major production is in ladies footwear. In the case of chapels and sandals, useof non-leather material is prevalent in the domestic market.

PER CAPITA CONSUMPTION

Some estimates available for population growth and per capita footwear consumptionand there is a significant rise from 1.65 in 2008 to 1.87 in 2011 and again to 2.19 in 2013.[3]

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FOOTWEAR PRICING SEGMENTS

� Mass Market – Target price of Rs.185-700 is dominated by Bata and Liberty

� Economy Market - Target price of Rs.700-1000 is dominated again by Bata and

Liberty

� Sports Market - Target price of Rs.1000-3000 is dominated by international brands

Nike, Adidas

� Premium Leather Market - Target price of Rs.3000-5000 is dominated by different

brands

� Luxury Market - Target price of Rs. 10,000 – 50,000 is dominated by GUCCI, Louis

Vuitton, etc.

II. PROBLEM STATEMENT

Indian footwear industry is providing employment opportunities to India. Basically thisindustry is labour intensive since it is regular consumable item for everybody. Based onthe present employment, domestic markets, export growth, there is a need to look intothis industry for creation of more employment opportunities to the nation. Industry,Government, Educational Institutions, Industry Associations would look into furtherinvestments in the industry and also HRD requirements for future years. Thus Estimatesof HRD are required to give an idea for overall development of Industry.

III. RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

This study is in terms of purpose is an applied and is type of descriptive- analytical andin terms of data collection is library method and data gathering tools in this study isthrough website, internet. Analysis on exports growth, global markets, presentemployment, employment required per unit and further estimates on the growth ofexports and domestic markets.

EXPORTS FROM INDIAN FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY AND GROWTH

MAJOR EXPORT MARKETS - During 2011-12, the main markets for Indian Footwearare UK with a share of 17.35%, Germany 17.03%, Italy 10.58%, USA 8.81%, France 7.67%,Spain 5.48%, Netherlands 4.90%, Portugal 1.38%, U.A.E 2.99% and Denmark 1.17.%.These 10 countries together accounts for nearly 80% share in India’s total footwear export.Nearly 90% of India’s export of footwear goes to European Countries and the USA. Futuregrowth of Indian footwear in India will continue to be market driven. The Europeancountries and the US are major consumers for the Indian footwear. [4]

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GLOBAL SCENERIO OF FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY - IMPORTS

Footwear Imports - Global Trend:[5]

Below Tables shows that Russia, The Netherlands, Germany, Japan, Spain, Canada hasconsiderable growth in their imports but Hong Kong, Belgium has little negative growthin their imports. In dollar terms, difference in imports for five years has given anddifference is more in USA than Russia even though growth rate is higher in Russia thanUSA.

IV. MANAGEMENT OF HUMAN RESOURCES REQUIREMENTS FOR INDIAN

FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY

EMPLOYMENT - The footwear industry is an employment intensive sector, providingjobs nearly about 1.10 million people, mostly from the weaker and minority sections of thesociety in which women employment is predominantly more in comparison with otherindustries. Nearly semi skilled and skilled manpower contributed about 50% share in its

19


workforce. Many estimates are available on workforce on leather industry, but experts inthe industry accepted the following figures in the Twelfth Five Year Plan period 2012-17.The estimated employment in different sectors of leather industry is as follows:

Employment Required Per Unit - Estimates are available and persons required for 1000pairs per day in footwear factory for full shoe unit and shoe upper unit separately.Different categories are required for the manufacturing of full shoe or shoe upper in afootwear unit.

EDUCATION AND TRAINING

Established institutions are offering many courses for footwear industry. Central LeatherResearch Institute, Chennai is offering certificate, diploma, B.Tech, M.Tech and Ph.Dcourses for footwear industry. Footwear Design & Development Institute is offering manydesigning courses and Central Footwear Training Institutes are offering courses formanufacture of footwear. Nearly 25 institutions in the country such as the FootwearDesign and Development Institute (FDDI), Central Footwear Training Institute (CFTI),Central Footwear Training Center (CFTC), Institute of Leather Technology (ILT) etc.impart training to students. Here again, out of 3,200 trainees passing out of theseinstitutions per annum, 53% have degree, diploma or certificate courses (long term) asagainst 47% completing the short term (less than one year) courses. While the formergroup is absorbed as middle level managers/supervisors, the latter group is placed asAssistant Supervisors or Skilled Workers.

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HRD FUTURE REQUIREMENTSBased on the export target set by the Government of India, structure and expansion ofindustry and its production capacities, a study has been conducted for human resourceand skill requirements in leather and leather goods industry by National SkillsDevelopment Corporation, New Delhi (NSDC). NSDC engaged IMaCS(ICRAManagement Consulting Services Limited) to prepare the report, which is based onindependent research and analysis done by IMaCS. Projection of HRD requirements forfootwear industry has been calculated and given by IMaCS based on 12% CAGR(Compound Annual Growth Rate) for Exports and 8% CAGR for domestic markets. ForExport markets, for the year of 2011, estimated figures are given below:[6]

ICRA Management Consulting Services Limited (IMaCS) analysis estimates therequirements of human resources for Indian footwear industry. Below table shows theestimates for different years and incremental figures for future requirements.

Employment opportunities creation is very important to any nation like India. Footwearindustry is giving more employment opportunities since the people are spending more onfootwear and its quality. More opportunities in exports and domestic markets due topopulation growth and increase in per capita consumption and purchasing power ofmiddle class people are giving hope to India in footwear sector for future employmentcreation in India. Being a labour intensive industry, its contribution to employment aswell as Indian economy is significant. It has potential to provide employment across allsections of the economy especially weaker sections and minority communities in India.With a focused approach on growing the Industrial and Institutional business, theindustry can offer globally renowned industrial footwear products. Qualityconsciousness, research & development, abundance of raw material, export potential andlow cost are some of the distinct features of the Indian Footwear Industry. However, tomaintain the growth trajectory, there is need of a purposeful review of programmes andpolicies of human resources development torejuvenate it.

Courtesy: International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology

Executive Editor: G. JOSEPH PRABHAKAR, CFTI, Chennai

CFTI Magazine Inside 2 · Kalraj Mishra, Hon’ble Minister for MSME, visited this Institute on the 17th of September, 2015 and he was immensely pleased and happy ... and staff of

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