cañeros.pdf

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By TubeDude

I have been adding various contrivances to my float tubes since about the mid 1970’s.

My most frequent and common add-ons have been rod holders…first for the single rods with

which I began tube fishing…and ultimately progressing to fancy multi-tube modular rod racks.

My first rod tubes were pieces of metal or plastic plumbing pipe I bought at the local

hardware store or building supply outlet. I found some short sections of drain pipe with flanged

ends that were just about right to hold a rod handle. I attached them to my tubes by tying them

down with rope…or plastic clothesline cord.

I also dissected a few commercially available aluminum rod holders to “appropriate” the

rod tubes for my float tubes. They also worked fine, when lashed down firmly before completely

airing up my tube. The added friction when I topped off the air chamber helped keep them from

rotating and dumping my rods in the drink.

One of my first “manufactured” float tubes.

It is a “Fishmaster”, made in Oklahoma.

Very “bare bones” with no D rings. I had to

lash on the piece of plumbing pipe on the

front to serve as a utility rod holder for the

one and only rod I took out on most of my

early tubing trips.

There are two rod tubes lashed onto this float

tube. The white plumbing pipe at the front, as

a utility rod holder…for the rod I am using at

the time…and the red-lipped aluminum rod

holder at the left rear. It was disconnected

from a commercial stick-in-the-ground rod

holder and was used to hold a spare rod.

Another early picture showing the introduction

of the outward-slanted Fishmaster rod holder on

the left front of my tube. It didn’t hold spinning

rods very well and almost put a couple over the

side. But, it did serve well as a hook upon which

to hang my metal fish basket…as long as I had it

cinched down tightly enough and it did not

rotate forward.

43 pages 127 Pictures

3-28-11

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Sometime in the mid 70’s the Fishmaster Company…one of the first commercial float

tube manufacturers…began selling strap on rod holders for float tubes. They were actually

designed to hold the large pistol grip handles on the bait casting rods of that day. So they were

both too short and too spacious for the average spinning rod handle and my rods wobbled around

in them precariously. I nearly lost more than one rod while using them.

At first, I strapped those commercial models to the left side of my round tubes…just in

front of the left pocket. That kept the extra rod out of the way while casting with my right arm.

And, as in one of the pictures on the previous page, It served as a hanger for my fish basket. But,

because it became more of a nuisance than an aid I relocated it back behind the front pocket on

later models…as in the above pic.

As always, the critical thing was to cinch it on before airing up the tube completely, so

that it would hold firmly and not slide around on the tube. I also began using a short stretchy

tether cord to keep the rod and reel from slipping out of the rod holder.

As my rod collection grew, I worked on new ways to carry more rods out with me on the

float tube. Initially, I just added one or two more single rod tubes…either plumbing pipes or

metal rod holder tubes from other sources. They were individually secured to the side of my

tubes with rope or plastic cord.

After buying a stick of 1 ¼” PVC pipe, to make my own rod tubes, I had the blinding

revelation that I could actually use standard PVC fittings to create multi-tube rod racks. I started

right out with a 3-tube model…shaped like a W. It lashed down on my tube firmly and held the

rods nicely. I still had not advanced to grinding out notches at the top for the reels to nest in.

Here’s a better picture of the strap-on

rod holder. However it has been

moved to the back corner on this tube.

Here’s my old 3-tube “W” rod holder.

It was made of heavy schedule 40 PVC

in 1 ¼” size…as was the single tube

utility rod holder on the front.

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The lash-down PVC rod tubes worked well for a few years. But then I formulated plans

for my first “modular” rod rack system. It consisted of a rectangular wood frame that was more

or less permanently lasted to the float tube. It was designed to allow another wooden frame, with

the rod tubes attached…to slide down inside with a close and secure fit.

This modular system accomplished several things for me. First, it brought my rods and

reels up higher off the water. And that was important because I sometimes tubed the salt waters

of the Sea of Cortez. There was never much of a surf condition, but always the potential during

launching and beaching for getting salt water and sand in my reels. Not a good lubricant.

The modular setup was also quick and easy to install and take down…for launching and

beaching. I could even carry my rods pre-rigged and then just slide them down into the frame

when I launched. That was better than having to tie the ropes on the PVC “W” every trip.

This wooden frame model also allowed me to add a fourth rod tube…and to attach a

couple of broom handle clips to hold the ½” PVC shaft for my sonar transducer. It was a bit

heavier and more cumbersome overall, but vastly more efficient. The positives far outweighed

the negatives.

My first “modular” rod rack, designed

during the years when I was still fishing

from a round tube. The wooden frame is

lashed to the tube with white plastic

clothesline cord and the wooden and

PVC rod rack slips down inside to lodge

firmly during use. Note the inclusion of

the sonar transducer shaft.

Here is the modular system all fitted

together and ready for some fishing. This

system was efficient and effective but it

was heavy and bulky.

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At some point I decided that I wanted a simpler and lighter 4 tube rod rack. So I did

away with the lash-down frame and simply installed the PVC rod tubes on a similar frame.

This led to reducing the weight even more by using only the two lateral wood slats.

And also to the design for an even lighter rod rack made from a single horizontal wood

slat with the rod tubes secured with metal pipe clamps.

The next step was to reduce the

weight and bulk somewhat by doing

away with the lash-on frame and

strapping on the wood and PVC rod

rack. Again, it worked fine but was

still a bit weighty and cumbersome.

This model had less wood and was quite

a bit lighter. The PVC tubes were

screwed to the lateral wooden slats

through the larger access holes drilled

into the heavy 1 ¼” schedule 40 PVC.

The framework was then tied to the two

D rings at the bottom of the pocket.

A still lighter wood and PVC rod rack.

There was only one lateral wood slat and

the PVC pipe was secured with metal

hanger clamps. One of the first racks to

incorporate the use of class 200 PVC

pipe. The thinner walled 1” class 200

pipe can be used with the clamps,

whereas the heavier schedule 40 in 1 ¼”

cannot.

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And, for short trips with a limited need for extra rods I also fabbed a 3-tube rod rack

using the same single strip of wood and the metal clamps.

In the early 1990’s I graduated from round tubes to open-fronted craft. The first tube I

owned that was not round was a Kennebec…a kind of mini-pontoon with an air chamber on each

side and an inflatable backrest in the middle. It also had a front “stabilizer bar”. Although it

proved to be tough to navigate in any kind of breezy condition, the flat sided shape allowed for

more creative rod holder designs. It also had more D rings.

While I truly enjoyed the greater ease of launching and beaching with the open front

design of the Kennebec, I never did like the handling properties. Thus, when I had the chance to

acquire an Outcast Super Fat Cat…with the pointed nose/stern…I jumped all over it. I have

been a Fat Cat man in the years since then…in spite of trying multiple other makes and models.

It was in the early years of my Fat Cat days that I really began to delve deep into the

mystical world of PVC-ology. My wood frame rod rack creations transferred well to my new

ride, but I began to lust after more exotic models…constructed entirely of PVC. I hung out a lot

at Home Depot and spent a lot of money on PVC pipe and fittings…and sniffed a lot of PVC

cement. That stuff must contain some powerful hallucinogenic properties.

The epitome of simplicity and lightness.

This is a 3-tube rod rack I put together

for quick trip when there was little need

for a lot of rods. It uses the same one slat

and clamp design as the 4 tube model

preceding it. It also uses the lighter class

200 PVC pipe and is secured with yellow

nylon rope through the D rings and

fastened with a clip and ring.

My former Kennebec…a mini-pontoon

that was better than a round tube but

had some handling problems in wind

and waves. However, it had flat sides

and plenty of D rings for mounting rod

racks and other goodies.

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The purpose of this write-up is not to provide complete diagrams and instructions on how

to fabricate each of the many different designs and innovations in float tube and pontoon rod

racks. It is merely to show pictorially the evolutionary process in creating rod holders…from a

variety of materials…and for a variety of applications.

There will be a couple of sections at the end that will show greater details on the cutting,

fitting and attaching of rod tubes. However, I have also put together a much longer separate on

“WORKING WITH PVC”. It goes into greater detail on PVC components and how to cut, shape

and attach them.

The remainder of this work will be broken down into arbitrary sections that more or less

go together.

COMMERCIAL HOLDERS:

There have been single and multi-rod holders available to the boating contingent for

many years. And most of their stuff can be successfully mounted and used on tubes and toons.

However, there are some basic design factors that make it more desirable and efficient to use

PVC rod racks that you specifically create for your craft, your rods and your way of fishing.

Almost any boat dealer…or purveyor of

boating accessories…has plastic rod holders

for sale. The good news is that they can be

successfully deployed on float tubes and

pontoons. The bad news is that they are not

as good as some you can make yourself.

Commercial rod racks made for boating

applications are sturdy and efficient.

However, their tubes are generally too

big for the average fresh water rod

handle and the front reel grooves are a

bit too deep for float tube mounts.

I bought and tried several boating rod racks

on my float tubes. I had to make some

modifications to get them to work “okay”. In

addition to using duct tape to shorten the reel

handle groove, I also unscrewed the tubes,

drilled new access holes and raised them up

higher to keep the reels out of water.

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UTILITY HOLDERS:

As mentioned in the introductory paragraphs, some of my earliest rod holders were single

tubes lashed down to hold one rod at a time. In those days I did not have as much tackle and the

laws were that I could only use one rod at a time anyway. No two-rod permits.

Over the years I acquired more rods and reels, made multi-tube rod racks and learned a

lot more about working with PVC. I also realized that no matter how many tubes there were in

my “off side” rod rack I still needed a single rod tube on my casting side…to hold my rod while I

re-rigged, baited hooks or handled freshly landed fish. Thus the ongoing quest for the perfect

“utility” rod holder on my right side…with the extra rods in the rack to my left.

I cannot begin to remember all of the experiments I have made to find an ideal utility rod

holder. I’m including a few pictures here, but I tried and discarded many others without ever

taking a picture for posterity. Sorry about that.

A commercial rod rack mounted on a

Fat Cat. Even with the modifications

the reels still rode lower toward the

water than I prefer. It worked, but

not as well as custom made.

This is a good illustration of how low

your reels ride in a commercial rod

rack made for boats…when attached to

your tube the best way possible…and

without any modification.

Now we are getting into “utility rod holders,

like the one at the far right of this picture. It is

designed to hold the rod you are actively using

while you handle fish, re-bait or rig tackle.

These “extra hands” increase your overall

efficiency and also help reduce the loss of rods

and reels over the side by laying them down.

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Early rod tubes served both as spare

rod holders and places to prop your

active rod while not in use. When you

only have one rod it is a luxury to have

two rod holders.

A good example of one of the primary

benefits of having a utility rod holder.

Handling catfish can be tricky and

dangerous. Being able put your rod in

a holder and use both hands on the

fish will help prevent holes in both you

and your float tube.

When I designed my first modular rod

rack…on the opposite side of this float

tube…I also designed a modular utility

rod tube. It is also a PVC tube attached

to a piece of wood and slides down inside

the wooden frame. Cumbersome but

effective. And it did keep the rod and reel

well up above the water.

Before I developed my PVC skills enough

to create fancier stuff I continued to use

the same old design that had served me

since the round tube days. For this utility

rod holder I just lashed on a piece of PVC

pipe with yellow nylon rope.

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Same thing…but with

blue parachute cord.

This utility rack…with utility rod holder…was

a natural adaptation of the early multiple tube

PVC rod racks I had been using.

This is a combo utility rod holder and bait

rigger setup…installed on a round float tube. It

uses the same interior wood block mounting

base as most of my more recent Fat Cat

installations. Note the heads of the long sheet

rock screws that secure the PVC assembly to

the wood block inside the pocket. The short

piece of ½” PVC coming out at a right angle is

a “stabilizer” bar…to reduce forward rotation.

A similar installation

on the right front of a

Fat Cat.

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MULTI-TUBE RACKS:

I have already shown pics of some of the early 3 and 4 tube rod racks I installed on my

tubes. Here are some more…both of my own creation and a few that other tubers and tooners

have devised by themselves…usually based upon my earlier designs.

We will start with a couple of 2-tube models. These were both crafted by other tubers. I

made and used 2-tube racks only briefly in my early tubing career…accelerating quickly through

3 tubes and on to 4 tubes. Although it is possible to create a rack to carry as many rods as you

want, it begins to approach overkill after about 4 or 5 rods per trip.

One of my more recent utility

rack installations…with a utility

rod holder on the front. With

this modular design the

individual tubes slip on and off

easily and can rotate forward or

backward for simple adjustments

in position.

This 2-tube rod rack was fashioned

by a fellow tuber who did not have a

large arsenal of rods. He did not

need more than a couple of holders.

An interesting combo

contrivance. It combines rod

holders with bait rigger and

transducer mount. Not my

design, by the way.

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A 3-tube rod rack made entirely of 1”

class 200 PVC. This model was actually

a downsize adaptation of the “standard”

4-tube models I had been making for

years. It was installed on a round

tube…using the yellow rope loops

attached to D rings below the pocket.

Note that one of the rod tubes has a deep

groove so that it will hold a fly rod.

A combo 3-tube rod rack and mount

for a sonar transducer. It also has the

long-grooved tube for a fly rod. The

assembly is attached with the yellow

nylon rope loops at the top…and is

secured on the bottom with stretch

cord and clips that attach to D rings

on the bottom of the tube.

Another 3-tube combo rack. This one

includes mounts for the sonar display on

one end and the transducer on the other

end. Note the mounting…snap clips on

D rings at the top and a stabilizer shaft

on the bottom. Cool design. Wish I

could take the credit for it.

Another tuber’s

simple but effective

3 tube rod rack.

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This 4-tube rod rack was a take-off

on earlier models that used a single

wood slat for the “frame”. On this

one the base is white plastic

molding. As with the wood and

PVC models the rod tubes are

secured with metal hanger straps.

This weird-looking setup was an attempt

to eliminate the rope and clip mounting

system I had been using. It was actually

a “modular” system. The base was

made from heat-bent light PVC pipe and

slipped down through the D rings. The

top part…with the rod tubes…snapped

down on the ½” PVC fittings spaced to

receive them.

Another grotesque experiment in PVC

construction. This 4-tube lash-on rod

rack was made from the heavy 1 ¼”

schedule 40 PVC pipe that I used before

discovering the lighter class 200 1” pipe

for rod tubes. I “Swiss-cheesed” the

rack after it was glued together in an

effort to reduce the weight…holes both

front and back. Didn’t significantly

reduce the weight but made a great flute

when the wind blew.

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Another 4-tube rod rack made with

lightweight class 200 PVC 1” pipe. This was

an attempt to create a design that would

attach and detach quickly and easily…and

would automatically ride with just the right

outward slant of the rods. The extension of

PVC at the rear accomplished that, when

balanced against the extended tubes and held

in place with the nylon rope loops and the

stretch cord at the bottom.

This is the basic 4-tube that has become the

most commonly used by new tubers who are

still learning PVCology as well as tubism.

It requires only about 5 feet of class 200 1”

PVC pipe and 4 fittings…and of course

some PVC cement. It attaches and removes

easily and holds 4 rods securely…and at

the right angle once you have everything

properly adjusted.

Another form of the classic 4-tube rack.

Because only two lower tubes are

necessary to secure the rack to the nylon

rope loops you can eliminate the bottom

extensions on two of the rod tubes. This

one was painted red with Rustoleum

plastic paint.

Here is the same “abbreviated” 4-tube

rack…in green. A close-up of the yellow

nylon rope loops will be included in the

last few pics of the last pages.

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TubeBabe likes pink and purple so she

got her 4-tube rack in lavender with

silver sparkles. Doesn’t help her

catch any more fish but she has

something purty to look at while

waiting for action.

This is a combo 5 tube rack put together

by a salt water tuber…for bigger rods.

The slanted tube on the outside serves

both as a utility rod holder and as a bait

rigger tube for dragging bait.

This is a multi-tube combo rack installed on a

comparatively small Fish Cat 4. While all of the

rods and reels seemingly fit okay, the close

proximity creates problems in getting them in

and out easily without dropping one over the

side accidently.

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MODULAR RACKS:

I chose the term “modular” to apply to any rod rack more than just a simple multi-tube

setup. In some cases the system will include connections for sonar display and/or transducer

mount. Most “modular” systems have permanent attachment components or are large one-piece

assemblies that fit down over the tube and are then secured in place. No real definitive terms.

My earliest modular rod rack was the aforementioned wood frame setup on one of my old

round tubes. Since then I have tried several others. I currently fish with a modular system that

features an exterior PVC anchor screwed into a wooden frame inside the tube pockets. I will be

showing more descriptive pictures of that toward the end of this write-up. Let’s start with some

pics of what a few other tubers have come up with.

This combo modular rack is nicely

designed and well built. Good

engineering incorporating the sonar

mount and including easy snap

attachment system.

A similar setup but utilizing a cross

bar across the back…to the utility

rack on the other side. A larger

modular system but very stable and

effective.

Here is a picture of the basic modular

frame from the previous picture.

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This is the mounted base for a

4-tube “snap-on” rod rack. It

is screwed to an interior wood

frame and provides ½” PVC

tubes over which the fittings

on the rod tube portion fit

down upon installation.

The two parts of the snap-on

system. The top part simply

fits down over the PVC tubes

spaced appropriately at the

bottom for a secure fit.

Here is the mounted rod rack. It is

light and compact and remains tight

while in use. But it is easily wiggled

free when it is time to leave.

The snap-on modular system with

4 rods and reels…ready to rumble.

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These are the component parts of my

“ultimate” 4-tube modular rod rack.

Each of the 4 rod tube assemblies is

attached individually and rotates

freely upon the unglued connection.

When the individual rod tubes are

attached to the base they can

rotate left or right…to make minor

position adjustments while in

use…or to fold down for compact

storage during moves.

The completed rack, mounted on my

tube by running long sheet rock screws

through the base and into an interior

wooden frame. (pictures at the end)

4-tube modular rod rack…”locked and

loaded”. Again, each rod tube attaches

separately and can be independently

rotated left or right as desired.

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HORIZONTAL & SLANT RACKS:

After a lot of experimenting with various rod rack designs…mostly with vertical tubes…I

got the idea for trying to carry the extra rods at a lower angle…to reduce problems with casting

and hook-setting sometimes experienced with the vertical rod holders. I immediately discarded

the idea of merely lowering the angle of the vertical racks I was then using…allowing the rod

tips to point outward. That created more problems than it solved…from the standpoint of

balance and profile.

My next through was to build a horizontal PVC shelf, upon which to lie the rods at the

side of my tube…front to back. That design worked, but I soon discovered that the platform had

to be higher in order to keep the reels from dunking into the water. But raising the frame too

high made it less handy to select or exchange rods and took too much engineering.

A third alternative was to create an angled frame that would slant up and out from the

tube…at a convenient height for the angler to see and select rods…but high enough to keep the

reels out of the water during high speed maneuvers (Ha!) or while taking incoming waves from

wind or boats. I came up with a couple of designs. Both worked well. The downside was that

when the rods are pointing back behind you there is a greater potential for hanging them up on

brush or trees. It also creates the hazard to rods during the launching and beaching process,

while close to hostile shoreline.

This is a horizontal rod holder I created

to allow my rods to remain low and out

of danger to wild hook setting or sloppy

casting. My main goal was to be able to

fish both spinning and fly fishing without

having problems of fly line wrapping

around my racked spinning rods. It

worked but sometimes allowed the low

hanging reels to get dunked.

This upward slanted version solved the

reel-dunking problem but still didn’t

address the potential for having rod tips

catching in brush or breaking on hostile

shoreline during launching or beaching.

Still, this has proven to be a popular idea

for anglers who fish with multiple fly rod

setups. It definitely reduces the problem

of line tangling around the other rods

during casting…especially in the wind.

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This picture shows the slanted rod

rack in use. It worked great on open

water but required that you gather

and hold your rods during launching

and beaching…especially on hostile

shoreline like this Arizona lake.

Here is a copycat installation of the

slanted rod rack. The tuber who

liked my idea was primarily a fly

fisherman and appreciated being

able to have multiple outfits easy to

access as needed.

This horizontal rack worked fine, in

principle. But, as might be expected, it

rode very low and allowed the reels to

drag in the water. However, if it had

been converted to an upward slanted

model it would have probably worked

much better

Here is a creative slanted rod rack,

designed for fly rods…with long grooves

in the tubes. There is a picture of the

plain white PVC assembly, before

painting, at the bottom of page 21.

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FLYROD HOLDERS:

Float tubes were originally developed largely for the fly fishing contingent. Since the

early days of tubing and tooning there have been a lot more accessories designed and sold for

this group than for those who prefer spinning or bait casting. This is especially true of rod

holders. Many float tube models include fabric fly rod holders or Velcro strips placed to hold fly

rods across the tube. And at least a couple of aftermarket manufacturers sell add-on fly rod

holders that snap or strap onto tubes or toons.

A lot of tubers who fish mainly with spinning gear also enjoy taking one or more fly rods

on their tube. If they make their own PVC rod racks they can easily adapt a spinning rod tube to

hold a fly rod…by cutting a long groove down one side. This allows you to push the end of the

fly rod…and reel…down far enough inside the rod tube so that it rides safely and securely.

The Scotty fly rod holders are popular

with the fairy wand contingent. They

are compact but very secure…and easy

to get rods in and out of. This one was

mounted on a piece of carpeted wood

and snapped to D rings.

Another commercially available add-on

rod holder. Called the “Float N Tote”.

As can be seen in the picture, it attaches

by strap and buckle. It is a good idea to

attach it and cinch it down tight before

completing the airing up process. That

adds more pressure to keep the strap

from rotating around on the tube.

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A couple of my early rod tube

modifications to allow inserting and

carrying fly rods in my 4-tube rod rack.

The tubes are heavy 1 ¼” schedule 40

PVC. One has been grooved to hold

the fly rod. The short tube on the

ground is an insert, with screws in the

sides, to create an add-on that slips

down inside the bigger tube and lodges

in place. See the next picture.

Here are three different fly rods being

carried in 3 different rod tubes. The one

closest is slipped down into the special

groove in the main tube. The middle one

is fitted into a tube insert…inside the

main tube. The far rod has an elongated

“fighting butt” and holds well inside an

unmodified tube normally used for

spinning or baitcast rods.

This is the unpainted and unmounted

version of the slanted fly rod holder

pictured back on page 19. Again, the

slotted tubes allow you to carry fly

rods and reels inside the tubes securely

and safely. However, many tubers add

Velcro or bungee cords to wrap around

the tops to secure the rods inside.

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A 3-tube combo rod and net holder

devised by a tooner in the Netherlands.

The tubes are screwed into a wood

block, mounted on the toon frame with

nuts and bolts. See following pic.

This is a close-up of the combo holder in the

previous picture…showing the construction

and attachment. Note the Velcro strips on

the fly rod tubes to help hold the rods more

securely.

Another example of a slotted PVC tube and

the use of a Velcro strip to cinch the rod

firmly in place.

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BAIT RIGGERS:

Once it became legal to fish with two rods, I began looking for a way to drag bait around

on one rod while casting lures with the other. On some occasions I wanted to fish two baits at a

time…without having to hold both rods in my hands. Having been exposed to the concept of

using outriggers…on boats…it was a short leap of imagination to create something similar for a

float tube. Simple concept…but it took a lot of trial and error to get it at least almost right.

Some of my earliest bait rigger designs were plain tubes. They held the rods up and out

from the tube but I had to constantly be alert for bites…both to set the hook and to insure that a

big fish did not either break the line or steal a rod. Now I set up all of my bait riggers with a line

clip. I leave the bail on my spinning reels open…and the spool release on my bait casters. Then

when a fish hits, it pulls the line out of the clip and can swim off with the bait while I put up my

other rod and get ready to do battle.

Actually, I still use bait riggers with the bail closed sometimes. If I am dragging jigs or

flies behind my tube, I leave the bail closed so that when a fish hits there is enough resistance to

help start the hook set. In many cases the fish hits hard enough to hook themselves.

The majority of the time I use them for slowly dragging a dead minnow or a piece of cut

bait out behind my tube while I actively cast some kind of lures with my second rod setup. I

always buy a second rod permit and it really adds to my success and enjoyment on most trips.

There is a special kind of thrill when a big catfish, wiper or walleye picks up the bait, pops the

line free of the clip and begins pulling line off the reel. You never know what is going to be on

the other end when you close the bail and set the hook.

Setting up and adjusting the bait riggers properly is a big part of the enjoyment and

effectiveness. They should be at an angle outward from the tube and elevated a bit above

horizontal. This helps increase the friction of the rod handle inside the rod tube…reducing the

potential for a fish stealing your rod. Having the rods elevated too high makes it more difficult

to watch the tips. And having them too low and close together increases tangles.

Here is an engineered fly rod

rack that attaches to the side of

the tube and allows the rods to

slant slightly outward. Note the

use of small bungee cords to

secure the rods in place.

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Here’s a picture of TubeBabe using both bait riggers at one time. We often drag two

different baits while prospecting for fish when they are not active and fishing with

lures is not effective. The bait riggers allow hands-free and relaxed fishing.

This is a side view of my Fat

Cat…all tricked out. Note the

bait riggers on the front…on

both sides. They can be used

for dragging bait, with the bail

open and line under a clip…or

with the bail closed when

fishing small jigs for perch or

other smaller species.

Here is a picture showing a

two rigger setup…with rods in

both holders. This is about the

right angle for both upward

and outward angle when using

the bait riggers. Too low and

you risk having rods pulled out

of the tubes. Too high and they

are hard to watch. Too close

together and you get tangles.

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A front view of a dual rigger setup.

This model has the tubes rising

close to the seated angler and uses

the extended stabilizer along the top

of the air chamber. These absorb

the weight of a heavier rod and also

the downward pull of fish.

A close-up view of a bait rigger setup

on the right front of a float tube. The

fittings are properly positioned during

mounting to have the rod pointing in

the right direction after the angler sits

in the tube and the riggers are in use.

It sometimes requires some minor

adjustments after installation to get the

rods positioned just the way you like

them while fishing. Note the black

plastic line clip…secured with white

electrician’s tape.

This is the same rigger with a spinning

rod inserted. The bail is left open…to

the right…and a loop of line is brought

back and slipped under the plastic clip.

When a fish takes the bait, the line pops

free and the fish can take line from the

reel freely. When you think the fish has

the bait good enough you remove the rod

from the rigger, close the bail on the

reel, allow the fish to pull the line tight

and then set the hook.

26

This is one of the first bait rigger

setups I fashioned from PVC. It

comes up out of one of the side

pockets on my float tube…where it is

attached to a horizontal piece of the

same pipe inside the pocket. It was a

big step up from just propping a rod

in a vertical rod tube and hoping I

could grab it in time to set a hook

when I got a bite.

Here is a more advanced edition of

a bait rigger and stabilizer setup. It

is secured to a wooden block inside

the tube pocket with long sheet rock

screws. It was very strong and

stable…and easily adjustable.

This is a “shorty” tube model. Most

of the rods I build for float tube

fishing have short handles so it is

usually not necessary to have long rod

tubes on either rod racks or bait

riggers. The open-ended T fitting

allows the end of the rod to extend out

the back so this holder could be used

with any sized rod handle.

27

This close-up shows the older

design bait rigger…with the

riser coming up from the inside

corner of the pocket. This

setup brought the rod tube in

closer to the angler but also got

in the way at times. Note the

stabilizer bar running down the

top center.

A later version…with the riser

for the rigger relocated to the

center of the stabilizer bar. This

moves the rigger slightly further

from the angler but is still

within easy reach…and is much

less likely to create problems

with catching on clothes, apron

or other things.

A still more recent development

is replacing the stabilizer bar

with a “front deck”. This

makes a much more stable base

for the rigger and for the apron

catch too. The rigger assembly

is removed when not in use and

fits down into a T which has a

¾” screw inside into which the

slotted bottom of the riser fits.

That insures a tight fit and no

turning from the desired setting.

28

This is the combo utility holder and

bait rigger pictured earlier. It was

installed on a float tube…with screws

run through the base and into an

interior wooden block.

This is a bait rigger setup fashioned as

an extension off from a strap-on utility

rack. The tubes fit inside nylon rope

loops and everything is stabilized with

bungee cords running around the tube

or attached to bottom D rings.

This is a simple frame strap-on bait

rigger setup. It is designed for quick

attachment and removal for times you

want a rigger but may not want it

permanently set up on your tube. Also

works well on borrowed or rented

tubes…or even on boats.

29

Here is a bait rigger mounted

on the frame of a pontoon. All

pontoons have different frame

configurations and require

creativity to figure out how to

attach PVC goodies without

interfering with rowing or

other functions. This one was

attached on a transverse part

of the frame…with a riser.

Another pontoon frame mount of a

bait rigger setup. This one

attaches to a vertical part of the

frame…to achieve the right

outward angle…and the vertical is

adjusted by the PVC fittings. The

design allows unhampered use of

the oars.

Still another frame mounted

bait rigger setup on a

pontoon. This one is attached

to an outside piece of the

frame but could have been

just as easily attached to the

crosspiece next to it.

30

There are a lot of different ways you

can rig something to hold a loop of

line on your bait rigger. Ideally, it

will hold the line firmly enough so

that it does not pop free at the

slightest pull…but will release when

a fish does tug at it, without feeling

too much pressure. This band of

surgical tubing worked well but

tended to degrade quickly.

This line clip employs a large paper

clip to hold the line on the rigger.

The tension can be adjusted by the

strength of the rubber bands and how

far down you push the clip under

them…and how far you bring the loop

of line. The main problem here was

that rubber turns brittle after

prolonged exposure to the sun and

needs to be replaced often. Later

versions had tape holding the clip.

Another office product employed as

a line clip. It worked…but no better

than a plain paper clip…and it was

easily bumped or tangled.

31

To make the removable riser part of

a bait rigger, begin by attaching a

1” to ½”reducing T to a 3” piece of

schedule 40 ½” PVC pipe. Then

break about 3” off the end of a

plastic fork or spoon. Have plastic

tape ready for the attachment.

White electrician’s tape has been

used to wrap the rear 1” or so of

the plastic utensil. Any color will

work but white blends in with the

PVC better. The longer you leave

the exposed plastic the looser the

hold on the line while fishing. If it

is too tight and the loop of line does

not slip out easily enough you can

slit the tape back a bit at a time

until you get the right tension.

Here is the completed

rigger…rigged and ready…with a

loop of line tucked back under the

plastic clip. The whole system

works best when the line is brought

back on the right side of the

rod…where the open bail rests.

That reduces the chance of the

loose line coils catching on the

reel handle and spooking the fish

before it has the bait well and you

can set the hook.

32

This is an experimental model of

a “quick-draw” bait rigger. It

was designed for fishing with the

bail closed…while dragging jigs

or flies behind the tube…and for

grabbing the rod and making

quick hooksets upon the strike.

This model had a flanged front

post. It was quick and easy to

prop up the rod but the line

sometimes got tangled around

that post…so I changed it to the

one below.

The quick-draw bait rigger with

a simpler and more streamlined

front post. It requires more

attention to set the rod in the slot

but is easier to remove quickly

for hook setting without getting

line tangled around that post.

Quick-draw bait riggers on both

left and right of my tube. This

setup works wonderfully for

bottom bouncing for perch and

walleye, or for slow trolling with

bubble and fly rigs. But it is

more time consuming to set up

and take down and is a lot of

extra PVC on the front end.

33

PONTOON MOUNTS:

Most of the pictures and rhetoric up to this point have been related to float tubes. But, I

have owned pontoons and have also helped quite a few other “tooners” get their rides properly

pimped…with rod holders, tool racks, sonar, etc. So I thought it might be appropriate to devote

some paragraphs and pictures to the pontoon side of PVC construction.

The first and most obvious difference between float tubes and pontoons is that toons have

metal frames. However, the frames are vastly different in shapes, sizes and quality. Some

frames are heavy steel tubing. Others are aluminum. And some are of much better quality both

in terms of metal thickness and in the welds and connections.

When you decide to decorate your toon with PVC goodies, you have a few factors to

consider. First are the oars. Whatever you add to your toon must be positioned so that it does

not interfere with rowing…or set up so that it can be folded down or removed when necessary.

Second is the method of attachment. If you are hesitant to drill holes in your frame, you

will need to use clamps, zip ties, straps or something else to mount the add-ons to your frame.

But, drilling and screwing rod tubes and tool racks to your frame will usually not weaken the

frame to any extent…even though it may compromise your warranty. And if you drill into a

steel frame you should always seal the connections with silicone or some other agent to keep out

moisture and prevent rusting.

Another big difference between tubes and toons is the greater difference in reach

necessary to access your add-ons from a pontoon. While fishing from a float tube, everything is

usually up close and convenient. The larger size and higher seating of a pontoon require more

reaching and stretching to get to some of the goodies you mount on it.

Here is an example of a fully “pimped” pontoon…with PVC attachments to

the metal frame. It includes a 4-tube modular rod rack, utility rack with net

holder, utility rod holder, twin bait riggers and mountings for the sonar

display and transducer arm.

34

This is a 4-tube modular rod rack

installed on a pontoon…using the

metal frame to attach PVC fittings

as a base for the individually

removable rod tubes. The rod tube

assemblies snap on to the base

fittings and are not cemented or

screwed in place. They rotate

freely…in or out or sideways. They

can be installed, removed or

adjusted for position as desired.

This is a well-engineered multi-tube

rod rack mounted on the left rear of

a bassers pontoon. It combines the

use of a clamp connection on the

metal frame with a PVC support

assembly to insure stability…while

remaining completely out of the

way of the oars.

Another well-engineered pontoon rod

rack. This one is very simple but

effective…combining clamp mounts on

the metal frame with a straight run of

PVC pipe and fittings. The main

drawback with a rear-mounted rod

rack is that it requires more twisting

and reaching to access the rods,

especially without a rotating seat.

35

Another rear-mounted

pontoon rod rack.

Here is another frame-mounted

modular rod rack system…including

a bait rigger at the front.

Still another modular and removable

rod holder system attached directly to

the metal frame. This mounting was at

the left rear of the craft where it could

be easily reached but would be mostly

out of the way while fly casting. Note

the long-slotted rod tube designed for

holding the fly rod when not in use.

36

This is a rotary rod rack system I made

for one of the pontoons I have owned.

It holds 4 rods in a setup that sits on a

bolt run up through the metal deck. It

rotates easily for access to whichever

rod the angler wants. The rod tubes

are not cemented into the fittings at the

bottom so they can be removed and

packed away during transport.

Another tooner’s concept of a

circular rod rack. This one attaches

to the diamond metal plate behind

the seat. It does not rotate but is

only slightly behind and to the left of

the seat so the rods are visible and

accessible without a lot of turning.

It is also positioned well enough to

not be a hazard to rowing.

Quick and easy rod tubes clamped

onto the metal frame directly

behind the tooner.

37

CONSTRUCTION, MOUNTING & ATTACHMENT:

Here are a few pictures and general suggestions for creating and hooking up your PVC

projects to your tube or toon. I have also put together a separate 14 page write-up on

“WORKING WITH PVC”. It presents a lot more detail on component parts, cutting, shaping,

cementing, screwing and bolting, etc.

There is a separate multi-page write-up

on working with PVC to create various

add-ons and accessories for float tubes

and pontoons. This brief treatment will

show only a few of the unique aspects of

PVCology. But, it all starts with having

some PVC pipe, some fittings, some PVC

cement and a few tools. Pictured here

are the clear PVC (in the gold can), a

hacksaw and a rotary tool (Dremel). You

don’t need much more for basic PVC

construction.

The rotary tool is helpful in cutting

grooves in the tops of rod tubes.

These grooves give the reels a place

to rest and keep them from rotating

around and tangling with the other

reels in your rod rack.

38

If you want to make any of the front

mounted or modular setups you will

need to install a 2”X2” wood block in

the front of your pocket(s). Cut the

block to fit and use sheetrock screws to

anchor it on each side…as below.

Run two or three long screws into the ends

of the wood block…through the outside of

the pocket cover. Use washers to prevent

the screws from tearing loose easily.

The red lines indicate where you

put screws to first install the

wooden block and then to anchor

the rod tubes or bait rigger setups.

This is a parts and components layout

showing the interior wooden frame and

the exterior PVC mounts. It is critical

that you measure the available space

inside your pocket and cut the parts for

the wooden frame inside to fit as

snugly as possible. That will make for

a much more stable final assembly.

39

This is just the interior wooden

frame…and hardware. If attaching

the side rail for a modular setup you

should run the screws through both

the side rail and the mounting

blocks for the best stability.

The component parts for a modular

rod rack setup…with removable

and moveable rod tubes. The base

is screwed to the interior wooden

frame and the individual tubes are

added, moved or removed as

desired. They are not glued.

Here is what the assembled modular

rod rack looks like. Imagine that it is

already attached to the wood with

long sheet rock screws.

And here is what the bait rigger

would look like when attached

to the interior wooden block.

40

When making a modular rod rack or other

attachments that require a ½ PVC fitting

for a base you will need to make cuts in

some fittings. A plain hacksaw works well.

But power saws are quicker…if not safer.

You will need to use a rotary tool or

sander to round corners and smooth

edges on the cut fittings. Then you will

need a drill to make pilot holes for the

screws. Select a bit that is slightly

smaller than the diameter of the screws

you are using to assemble your project.

After anchoring the base fittings,

insert a short piece of PVC pipe. This

will allow the rod tubes or other

pieces to fit quickly and easily onto

the frame…where they can be

adjusted or removed as you wish.

41

These are the component parts of a

3 tube modular rod rack system for

a pontoon. Note that the cut PVC

fitting bases have already been

screwed onto the frame.

This is the completed assembly.

The individual tubes are not

glues or otherwise attached

and may be rotated or removed

easily for transport.

42

This is a close up of the yellow nylon

rope loop system used for simple

attachments of basic PVC rod racks.

Each loop is about 6” long but needs

to be adjusted to allow the rods to ride

at the right angle on each tube.

Here is a 4-tube PVC rod rack with

the nylon rope loops holding two of

the tubes at the D rings below the

pockets. There is a notch in the

bottoms of the two center tubes into

which a bungee cord fits. It is

attached to D rings on the bottom.

This version of the 4-tube rod rack is

also held in place with nylon loops.

However, the bottom is secured by

bungee cords attached to the bottoms of

the two protruding tubes and then on to

the D rings.

This picture illustrates how the bottom

bungee cords attach first to the rod rack

and then to the D rings. This makes the

rod rack very stable and less subject to

rocking and rolling. Note the yellow

nylon rope loops.

43

Another PVC installation using the

clipped bungee cords to attach the rod

rack to the bottom D rings.

And, below, a picture of the entire

bottom of a float tube with both rod

rack and utility rack attached…from

either side.