CMCA AUDITED SCAN ME TO GO TO OUR WEBSITE for the business of retailing jewellery since 1879 DECEMBER 2011/ JANUARY 2012 PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25 PLUS: EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS WHITE JEWELLERY White metal jewellery is here to stay Looking Forward Dmitry Kaplan, GemOro Goldsmith, Edmonton AB LE COIN FRANÇAIS Naissance d’une mine d’or, L’art de la joaillerie
Our December / January 2011 Issue of Canadian Jeweller
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CMCAAUDITED
SCAN ME TO GOTO OUR WEBSITE
f o r t h e b u s i n e s s o f r e t a i l i n g j e w e l l e r y s i n c e 1 8 7 9
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PLUS: EXCELLENCE IN DESIGNALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
WHITE JEWELLERYWhite metal jewellery is here to stay
LookingForward
Dmitry Kaplan, GemOro Goldsmith, Edmonton AB
LE COIN FRANÇAISNaissance d’une mine d’or, L’art de la joaillerie
001.CJ_Cover 04.indd 1 12/20/11 9:17:17 AM
24 Gold Group Ltd.Gold Dealer & Refining Company
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canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.
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8 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m
[FEATURES]34. getting started with social media
It’s a great way to connect with your customers and hear what they have to say.
36. gazing at you Cat’s eye gems are a fun and fascinating phenomenon.
44. looKing Forward Dmitry Kaplan stays ahead of the game and opens a unique second location of GemOro in Edmonton.
50. paint it white The consumer love affair with white metal jewellery looks like it’s here to stay.
62. eXcellence in design A look at the winners from the 2011 Excellence In Design competition.
68. Feri mosh Aims to be “above all.”
80. trade show calendar
DECEMBER 2011/JanuaRy 2012
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[DEPARTMENTS] DECEMBER 2011/JanuaRy 2012
12. Letter from the editor
14. Product ProfiLes
22. star watch
24. who’s news
26. for the record
70. art meets science Claudio Pino designs sculptural rings that reflect the wearer’s movements.
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12 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
letterfromtheeditor
Don’t worry, this won’t be another one of those “New Year’s resolutions” letters. I am all for making lists and setting goals for the coming year. In fact, as business people you wouldn’t survive without them. Yet I also feel sometimes we don’t celebrate our achievements as much as we should. It’s easy to drown in worry about hard times on the horizon or regret everything we didn’t do and should have done. So let’s take a minute to enjoy all the happiness and accomplishments 2011 has brought us.
� ere are success stories, such as the one spearheaded by Dmitry Kaplan who recently opened a second, stunning location of GemOro Goldsmith in Edmonton, raising the bar for jewellery retailers in the Alberta capital (page 44). Or the ongoing rise of Pandora which opened two more stores in the Toronto area (page 30).
It was also a great year for creativity. � e 12 � nalists of the Excellence in Design Awards are a clear testament to that. � eir bold and beautiful designs keep the industry vibrant and consumers asking for more (page 62).
We also have personal reasons to celebrate here at Canadian Jeweller. We’ve been � ooded by words of praise and encouragement as a result of last issue’s French corner. So much so, it’s now a recurring section, one that will celebrate French Canada’s many achievements (page 56).
Furthermore, the launch of Ever magazine (out now) certainly put a smile on our faces. We believe it will be a powerful tool for our industry...and a beautiful one as well! Pick up a copy and let us know your thoughts on it.
Since planning will de� nitely help us make 2012 a great year we’re including a comprehensive guide (plus a handy wall calendar) of all the key trade shows you’ll want to attend.
� e time for words is now over. � e only one le� for all of us should be “cheers!”
Carlos WeigleEditor
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C A N A DA’ S #1 J E W E L L E RY M AG A Z I N E J E W E L L E RY: T H E E X P E R I E N C E O F P E R S O N A L T R A N S F OR M AT IO N & I DE N T I T Y
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9:15 AM | Time to repair that cocktail ring Mrs. Hollowaybrought in. I’m so thankful I have that benchtop welderI bought at the last Expo—no more removing the stones!
11:08 AM | The castings came in from that sub-contractor I met at Expo. Once again, they’re perfect. Ever since Expo, I never get stressed when I send out work—talk about peace of mind!
1:38 PM | Another order for that new line of bi-metal bands—sales are through the roof! That Expo seminar on new metals was the best 90 minutes I ever spent.
4:12 PM | Went online to register for the 2012 Expo. Can’t wait to see what I can fi nd. (I have my eye on that new laser engraving system I’ve heard so much about…)
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24
who’snews
CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Reilly goes PlatinumKevin Reilly has been promoted to Director of Business Development at Platinum Guild International. “I am delighted to announce Kevin’s promotion which re� ects his long service and outstanding contribution to PGI and our partners,“ said Huw Daniel, president of PGI-USA. Prior to joining PGI, he served as VP of Sales and Marketing at Tache USA and as Director of Customer Relations and New Business Development at Lazare Kaplan.
Financial whiz joins ZaleZale Corp. has a new Senior Vice President and Chief Financial O� cer. � omas A. Haubenstricker has taken on the role of VP and CFO at the corporation. Haubenstricker will be reporting to the company’s Chief Administrative O� cer, Matt Appel. Zale Corp. is pleased Haubenstricker has joined the company, saying his strong background in accounting, business and � nance will be a strong contribution. “Tom is the most recent example of the talented, experienced senior executives we have added to the business.” Prior to leaving his position as
Managing Director at Turnberry Advisors to join the Zale Corp team, Haubenstricker spent 24 years at Electronic Data Systems in a variety of roles. � eo Killion, Chief Executive O� cer of Zale Corp. says, “Tom’s � nancial expertise should prove invaluable.”
Stronger diamondsIsrael Diamond Exchange welcomes Brigadier General Moti Besser as its new Managing Director. Known for his extensive experience in the diamond industry, Besser was invited to join the organization by IDE President Yair Sahar, who says Besser “will no doubt make an important contribution to strengthening the Israeli diamond industry.” � e Israel Diamond Exchange has 3,000 members and plays a large role in the Israeli economy. Prior to his role at IDE, Besser served as Managing Director of the State Comptroller’s O� ce and was Managing Director of the Israel Diamond Manufacturers Association from 2002 to 2007.
Farewell to a royal watchmakerFamous Watchmaker George Daniels died on Oct. 21. Daniels is most famous for his invention of the co-axial escapement, used by OMEGA in its watches. Queen Elizabeth II named the 85-year-old Commander of the British Empire (CBE) in 2010. � e well-known watchmaker, who wrote a seminal book called Watchmaking, was one of the � rst modern-day watchmakers to create a watch by hand. OMEGA says Daniels will be missed and never forgotten for his work in the world of watchmaking
Blue Nile restructuresFollowing the resignation of Diane Irvine, Blue Nile announced General Manager, Vijay Talwar as the new interim CEO. Prior to his new role, Talwar served in a variety of positions including head of the William J. Clinton Foundation in India, Starbucks, Nike, and Bain and Company. Irvine resigned as CEO a� er 12 years, following a Wall Street report and company announcement of decreased pro� ts. Net income dropped over 30 per cent from last year. Despite the drop in pro� t, Talwar is predicting the “biggest holiday season in the history of Blue Nile.”
Barbara Ryan
Reilly goes Platinum
Barbara RyanKevin Reilly
George Daniels
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26 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m
fortherecord
news | trends | events
Liz Taylor’s collection on tour The legendary Elizabeth Taylor’s dazzling collection of jewels was featured on an international tour before being auctioned in December. The tour, hosted by Christie’s auctioneers, is expected to have generated $30 million, with a portion of the proceeds going to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation. Among the collection of sapphires and rubies, is the famous 33.19 ct white diamond ring from 1968. The breathtaking piece was sold for a record $8.8 million. According to Marc Porter, Christie’s American chairman, Taylor decided a few years ago that she wanted to auction off her collection allowing “someone else to enjoy them.” The four-day auction, which was held in New York from December 13-16, and expected to raise $20 million, ended up raking in a staggering $116 million. As well, some parts of her jewellery collection were sold via a special online-only sale. The two-week online sale ran concurrently with the live auctions. This marks the first time that the famed auction house hosted an exclusively online
addition to a private collection. Christie’s selected more than 500 fine and costume jewellery pieces for the online-only sale, including exceptional Art Deco-era jewellery and an array of signed jewels by Cartier, Chanel, Christian Dior and Ruser, among others.
Jewellery stores come firstA recent survey by MVI Marketing’s Jewelry Opinion Council reveals jewellery stores are the place of preference for consumers to sell their unwanted gold. Heading down to a local jewellery store to trade in unwanted gold may be simpler for consumers, providing instant cash in comparison to waiting for one-day events to approach. The survey showed 60 per cent preferred to sell to a local store while the minority of 10 per cent sold unwanted gold at one-day events. It may be worth the wait as 69 per percent of panelists stated one-day events paid the most cash for unwanted jewellery. Local jewellers were not far behind in price match with both options providing satisfactory to high
levels of customer service. Consumers tend to be wary of online offers due to the possibility of scams, and 35 per cent of panelists were not too keen on television offers.
J.C Penney marries Liz Claiborne J.C. Penney now holds world rights to the famous Liz Claiborne line. The company has also bought the U.S. rights for the jewellery line Monet. The total purchase cost of both brands equals $267.5 million. J.C. Penney plans to be the official retailer of the Monet brand, which will be available at its stores come August 2012. Ron Johnson, former Apple store chief, now leads J.C. Penney as head retailer. Johnson currently has no plans to make any changes to the Liz Claiborne design team. According to a Nashville, Tennessee analyst, Robin Murchison, J.C Penney will benefit from holding world rights to the line “because they won’t have to pay licensing fees anymore.” The Liz Claiborne line was created in 1976 to provide tasteful fashion for working women.
Dennis Gartman
Gold hurts?The slow recovery of gold prices continues to display a negative sign for the metal’s value. Economist Dennis Gartman says, “Very real damage is being done to the gold market.” Gartman warns that hedge funds, margin selling and possible bank liquidations could all contribute to a further decline in the already damaged market. Gold prices have been enduring a slow recovery since after prices climbed to US $1,900 an ounce in late summer. Not everybody shares a gloomy vision of the gold market, though. AngloGold Ashanti Chief Executive Mark Cutifani told a business forum that he could “easily” see the metal reaching $2,200 an ounce in the next two years. In fact, gold demand has reached US $57.7 billion, resulting in 1,053.9 tonnes. The third quarter increase is up six per cent from the year before. The Q3 2011 report from World Gold Council’s Gold Demand Trends showed investment demand increased by 33 per cent in the past year and demand for Chinese jewellery rose 13 per cent. Marcus Grubb, Managing Director, Investment at the World Gold Council, says, “The long-term fundamentals for gold remain strong with a diverse and growing demand base coupled with constrained supply-side activity.
026-032.CJ_FTR.indd 26 12/20/11 9:25:05 AM
i n f o @ p i e r r e l a u r e n t . c o mFor details, write #127 on Free Info Page, page 88.
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28 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m
fortherecord
Royal Asscher Cut sapphires
Stuller Inc. to distribute Royal Asscher Cut sapphires Stuller has announced that it will be the exclusive distributor of the patented Royal Asscher® Cut sapphire. “We are excited to be partnering with Stuller,” says Royal Asscher President, Lita Asscher. “With Stuller being the largest North American jewellery distributor and having a significant global presence, it’s a perfect fit. We’re also thrilled that our sapphires will be available to even more retailers around the world.” Stuller will serve as the primary distributor of the loose sapphires, carrying them in blue, lavender, pink and yellow, both natural and heat-treated. “This partnership with Royal Asscher further demonstrates Stuller’s commitment to bringing our customers the very best selection,” says Stuller Founder and Chairman, Matt Stuller. “And with the growing demand for sapphires, we look forward to providing this unique option just in time for the holiday season.”
Sun-Drop breaks a world recordThe 110.03 ct. Sun-Drop, fancy vivid yellow diamond sold for $12.4 million in Geneva on Nov.
15th, at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels Auction. The diamond, discovered in South Africa in 2010, set a world price record. The pear-shaped, Vivid Yellow was the previous record-setter, selling for $6.5 million at Christie’s auction in October. Both buyers remain anonymous.
Naughty and nice holidaysA slow recovery from the U.S. economy has companies expecting only a small gain in holiday sales compared to that of 2010. Deloitte, a consulting firm, states that holiday sales are expected to increase by a maximum of three per cent. That’s only a small gain compared to the 5.9 per cent increase from the year before. Online, catalogue and television sales are expected to have the highest increase of nearly 14 per cent. The International Council of Shopping Centers and ShopperTrak have similar predictions to Deloitte’s, ranging from an increase of three to 3.5 per cent. On the other hand, high-income shoppers are expected to spend seven per cent more on holiday gifts this year than in 2010. The annual Survey of Affluence and Wealth in America suggests that consumers with an income of $250,000 and above will buy less and spend more while those in the $100,000 to $250,000 mark will spend 17 per cent less. Incomes below $100,000 will spend 28 per cent less than the year before. Women like their jewellery, as the surveys suggest, with 36 per cent of wives requesting it as their gift of choice – positive note for jewellers as the holidays quickly approach.
Happy faces at Harry WinstonU.S. sales are strong for Harry Winston Diamond Corporation. The co-owner of the Diavik mine in Canada says the first two months of the quarter
have prevailed as jewellery sales continue to increase. The overall polished diamond prices have seen a 10 per cent decrease since July, following a 25 per cent overall yearly increase, with rough diamonds seeing a climb of near 50 per cent. Some rough diamond sales are being delayed until the fourth quarter as “the unstable market seeks bargains,” according to chairman and CEO Robert Gannicott.
Luxury suits China and IndiaA past decision made by luxury brands to move into the Chinese market leaves room for sales to grow as the recession approaches. High-profile brands such as LVMH, Burberry and Hugo Boss are aware of the current high demand for brand-savvy buyers. At the recent World Retail Congress in Berlin, Jean Christophe Babin, CEO of watchmaker Tag Heuer stated, “Luxury brands have done a great job of learning from the last crisis.” Luxury is becoming a necessity as big-name brands are making it more accessible for buyers. In India, luxury sales are expected to expand by 20 per cent annually until 2015, according to a new report. Luxury sales were slow to take off in India a decade ago, disappointing retailers who thought it was the next China. Now, Indian consumers, brand-lovers, “are quickly catching up with global trends,” according to Neelesh Hundekari, head of Indian luxury retail at consultancy AT Kearney. The same goes for the Middle East. Luxury buyers have shown no signs of tightening their purse strings despite the possibility of a second financial crisis, analysts told Arabian Business. Upscale brands have continued to report strong regional sales amid a global economic slowdown, as wealthy consumers drive a surge in demand.
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Luxury brands welcome e-commerceLuxury brands are increasing the use of e-commerce according to a new study from PM Digital, an online marketing agency. Of 42 luxury brands, 81 per cent are offering online sale of merchandise, trafficking 98 per cent of viewers. Only two per cent of online traffic was generated through luxury brand websites not offering e-commerce. The average age of luxury brand Web shoppers is 34 and younger. Although search engines and social media sites are responsible for generating a large percentage of online traffic, they fall second to TV and media campaigns.
Ashton bets on Abboud A U.S. division of Gitanjali, Ashton Luxury Group has acquired exclusive license and distribution rights to the Joseph Abboud jewellery line. The new line, “Joseph Abboud by REVV” will be designed by the brand’s creative team and distributed throughout North America. While an international launch of the line is planned for 2013 and 2014, the new venture’s retail sales are estimated to hit the $140 million mark in the next five years.
Chinese warehouses on topChina’s leading online retailers are paying top-dollar for warehouse rental space as online sales are expected to triple in the next year. This year alone, rent costs have already seen a five per cent increase. Web retailers are calling it a “vicious cycle” as online sales and the need for distribution space increase. In 2010, online sales in China reached 80 billion yuan, with 485 million Internet users. An HSBC Holdings plc report from August revealed that by next year, consumers in China will be responsible for the world’s largest share of luxury spending.
50 ct diamond flops in CanadaThe 50 ct diamond, estimated to be worth $10 million, sold for $2.7 million at Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum auction on November 12. The diamond created a new record for Canada as the previous record diamond sold for $2 million. The ROM auction is the largest in Canada to date according to Kashif Khan,
Managing Director of Ritchies Auctioneers. Sales generated more than $5 million. Khan says he hopes the diamond sale will bring more luxury jewellery auctions to Canada.
Ulysse Nardin conquers MexicoUlysse Nardin received the Premio Especial Tempo de Relojes for its sleek watch, the Freak Diavolo, which introduced silicon 10 years ago. The Freak Diavolo was the winning luxury watch among 46 other brands throughout the three-day event, which took place at the Museum of Modern Art of Mexico City. It was the fifth edition of the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), the Tiempo de Relojes 2011. The Freak was the first of its kind to bring silicon into the watchmaking world, making its mark as a revolutionary timepiece. The watch received its name for its sleek appearance along with red and black accents portraying a devil-like image.
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A fantasy braAlthough the annual Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is always a visually appealing exhibition of beautiful models and lingerie, the real star of the show this year was the Fantasy Treasure bra, worth an immense $2.5 million. Top Victoria Secret model Miranda Kerr had the honour of strutting down the catwalk in the stunning piece created by London’s Jewelers and featuring 142 ct of diamonds. Embellished with pearls, citrines and aquamarine, the bra was – not surprisingly – also accompanied by its own personal security guard.
Social media drives online salesThe new wave of social media has consumers virtually shopping from the comfort of their own home. Bloggers and social media sites are expected to increase the sales for online luxury brands by 20 per cent (11 billion euro) come 2015. The rise of social media has every second consumer asking Facebook and Twitter for buying advice according to the Digital Luxury Experience from Altagamma Observatory in Milan. The survey showed that consumers from China, the U.S. and Europe are highly influenced by fashion blogs, with a preference to shop online. Social media provides virtual buyers with an in-depth experience where they are able to communicate and obtain information through sites such as Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
Movado is all about Better MenMovado was the exclusive presenting sponsor of the 2011 GQ’s, in partnership with The Gentlemen’s Fund, Better Men Better World Self Initiative. The event, which celebrates everyday people who have made heroic and selfless contributions, was held on October 26, in New York City. Jake Wood, of Team Rubicon, was announced winner of this year’s initiative for his mission in Haiti. Recognition was also given to four other finalists for their achievements. Mary Leach, Chief Marketing Officer, Movado Group Inc. says Movado is “thrilled to partner with GQ again.”
Agassi and Longines team upThe Andre Agassi Foundation for Education along with presenting sponsor, Longines, raised a record-breaking $26.1 million at the 16th Grand Slam for Children benefit concert. The event was held on October 29 at Wynn Hotel, Las Vegas. Featured artists included Michael Bublé, Jimmy Kimmel, Train, Gladys Knight, Smokey Robinson, Martina McBride, Signature Group and Jeff Ross. With funds helping to provide West Las Vegas students with a free tuition public school, the Andre Agassi College Preparatory Academy, Agassi says he is both “astounded and humbled by the generosity and compassion” of those involved in the event.
Fantasy Treasure bra
Charming additionsPandora recently added two stores to better serve its Toronto customers: one is located at the Sherway Gardens shopping centre while the latest location was opened at the Holt Renfrew Centre.
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Japan jewellery sales up Two of the leading jewellery retailer chains in Japan are reporting a remarkable surge in jewellery sales over recent months. In that sense, 4 Degree C reports a 20 per cent year-on-year increase in its sales in August/September of 18k gold rings and necklaces. Meanwhile, Star Jewelry reports a 15 per cent rise in the sales of diamond set jewellery. The Japan Association for Department Stores also reported, for the fourth consecutive month, a rise in jewellery sales by its members. Experts attribute the sales rebound of jewellery to Japanese consumers’ growing affinity to personal items that have a lasting value after the tsunami, as well as an increase in the number of engagements and weddings across the country. The 23rd International Jewellery Tokyo (IJT 2012), Japan’s largest jewellery trade show, offers the perfect venue to take advantage of this opportunity. The show takes place from Wednesday, January 11 to Saturday, January 14. There are 1,350 companies exhibiting from around the world, meeting with an anticipated 38,000 buyers.
Citizen and Dion Phaneuf are “unstoppable”Last month, the Bay welcomed Dion Phaneuf, Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs, to its Toronto Queen Street store to promote Citizen Eco-Drive watches. Citizen chose the All-Star Phaneuf for its Eco-Drive “Unstoppable” campaign because he’s a perfect fit. After all, he’s a world-class, unstoppable athlete who’s been celebrated as the NHL’s hardest hitter and a rookie of the month. Phaneuf ’s fans were delighted when he signed autographs for them and drew the names of lucky winners to receive signed Toronto Maple Leafs memorabilia. As for the Eco-Drive watches, they really are as unstoppable as great athletes; they convert light into stored energy to power the watch for at least six months, even in the dark. They’re fueled by light, never need a battery and are stylish and sustainable.
Hollywood loves HamiltonHamilton hosted the 5th annual Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards on November 7 in Los Angeles, paying tribute to the talented off-screen heroes who contribute to movie-making success. Walking the red carpet, looking fabulously fashionable, were presenters and guests, including Harrison Ford, Antonio Banderas with wife Melanie Griffith, The Help’s Viola Davis, Mad Men’s Jon Hamm, and JJ Abrams, among others. Banderas presented the award to producer Agustín Almodóvar for his current film, The Skin I Live In. Toronto native Saum Khashaei was also honoured by Hamilton. Khashaei’s winning short film was first screened at the Toronto premiere of Abduction on September 22. Attending the recently reopened Toronto International Film School, Khashaei competed against 50 other students and came in among the final three contenders. They each received $1,000 and one special item. As Khashaei explained, “I got chosen to come to Los Angeles for the event – oh, and I also got this watch.” The young filmmaker proudly displayed a large, black round-faced watch from Hamilton’s Khaki collection. [CJ]
Clockwise from top left: Antonio Banderas, Pedro Almodovar and Harrison Ford; Jon Hamm; Chris Weitz with Guest; JJ Abrams, Michael Bay and Jon Favreau
Citizen Watch’s Eric Senftleben, Kevin Kaye (President), Tara Bon with Toronto Maple Leafs Captain Dion Phaneuf
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It’s a great way to connect with your customers and hear what they have to sayBY AILEEN BENNETT
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Aileen Bennett is an award-winning speaker and author who rents out her brain to businesses to help them with customer service, corporate culture and communication. She curates a popular blog about ideas at www.creatingclever.com
CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
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From the outside, Facebook or Twitter can seem like an endless, mindless conversation that will drain your time and energy into the black hole of the Internet. It’s like standing outside Central Station in
New York City, trying to work out where everyone is going. In that situation, the best thing to do is go inside and figure out where you want to go.
In deciding which social media sites to use, the answer to the question of where to go is always “wherever your customers are.” It’s much easier to find people and join them than to stand on your own, waving dramatically and hoping they will join you.
Join all the sites
First, join every site you hear about, including the most popular sites today: Facebook, Twitter and LinkedIn. This will ensure you have a consistent username across all the platforms you choose to use. There are even sites such as knowem.com that will reserve your name for you on hundreds of sites.
start with your existing customers
Your best customers on social media are your existing customers. It’s a way to stay in touch with them on a less formal basis, to be part of their social network and make a connection with them. We may all use digital devices a lot these days, and yet our human need for connection hasn’t changed. Remember this, and you won’t go wrong.
Most of you will find your customers on Facebook, and those who have a younger customer base will find more people on Twitter. Those who operate on a business-to-business basis may add LinkedIn to their marketing plan. The best way to find out which sites your customers are using is simply to ask them. When you interact with customers, find out what social networks they use. Invite them to connect. Offer them first news of sales, promotions and new inventory.
It might be tempting to get your nephew or the geeky teenaged daughter of a friend to run your social media. While they may be helpful in
setting it up, that’s as far as it should go; if you let them post messages for you, you are putting your customer service in their hands. There is no point in customers interacting with your business online if you aren’t aware of this when they come into the store.
a two-way exchange of ideas and news
Marketing through social media is different than through traditional media. It’s a conversation, a two-way exchange with your customer, rather than a one-way sales pitch or a series of messages. You know you are doing the right thing for your business when you get a response. You are looking for interaction, for people to comment, like, share, re-tweet and generally respond to what you are putting out there. When they do, it means they like what you are saying.
The great news about social media is that, at its best, it is based on people being genuine and building connections and relationships with customers —the same way you have built your business and customer base since you started. The connection isn’t new, just the media you use to do it. Social media is the new village hall. It’s where people talk about births, engagements, weddings and celebrations of all kinds. All that’s different now is that the village is bigger, and online.
get creative and share photos and videos
When you think about sharing, don’t just think about words. Photos are easily shareable, and so is video. Next time your friendly parcel carrier arrives with a big package for you, video your excitement and share it online. Take photos of newly engaged couples (with their permission) and share them on your wall. Capture those moments that show who you really are as a store, and let the world see them.
The biggest barrier between you and potential customers is the doors of your business. Social media can go a long way to breaking down that barrier and connecting you to your customers in their own homes. They get to see what you do and how you do it. They feel like they know you, and they begin to trust you. And that’s a great start for any relationship. [CJ]
Social media isn’t going away any time soon. In fact, it’s becoming even more popular, and therefore needs to be an important
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Gazing At YouCat’s eye gems are a fun and fascinating phenomenon
These days, closed-circuit cameras peer at us from everywhere. We’re used to being watched by cameras and people. Even some jewellery looks back at us with beautiful eyes. Fun and fascinating, gems with eyes are called “cat’s eye” gems. They have a bright line of reflected light running in one direction across the stone, and they look at us as we look at them.
All gemstones are phenomenal, but some are more “phenomenal” than others. The cat’s eye is a “phenomenon” found in certain gems. In strict gemological terms, a phenomenon is one of a group of gem properties defined in the 1974 Sixth Edition of Robert Shipley Jr.’s Dictionary of Gems and Gemology as “…an optical effect in visible light occurring in certain but not all specimens of a species. See adularescence; asterism; chatoyancy; fluorescence (in ultraviolet light); girasol; labradorescence; orient; play of colour; schiller.”
Although this dry dictionary definition doesn’t make cat’s eyes sound exciting, they can actually make a gem very interesting, indeed.
For instance, the phenomenon referred to as “chatoyancy” is the “cat’s eye” that draws our attention. The word “chatoyancy” comes from the French word for cat: “chat” (not to be confused with the English word for casual conversation).
Light refLections
The effect of a cat’s eye looking back at you is caused by light reflecting off the surface of a gem with linear inclusions all running in a single direction. These inclusions may be tubes, hollow spaces, needle-like inclusions or mineral inclusions. A cat’s eye might be narrow and sharp, or broad and fuzzy. Its brightness and sharpness depend on the inclusions causing the phenomenon, and on the shape and cut of the gem. Faceted gems cannot show a cat’s eye; the gem needs to be a cabochon or bead, with a polished, rounded surface.
Different kinDs of cat’s eyes
If you read 1940’s detective novels set in mysterious, faraway places, the hero may be searching for the precious, missing “cat’s eye.” In modern gemology we like to name our gems, and calling something a “cat’s eye” is only half the story. Traditionally a “cat’s eye” that you might have found in a Hong Kong or Tokyo jeweller’s showcase was simply called a “cat’s eye,”
By Duncan Parker
though the name referred to cat’s eye chrysoberyl. This has a golden yellow to green colour, and in a good specimen will have a sharp eye—like a good diamond grader. There are dozens of other cat’s eye gems that you could also look at (and that could look at you).
Many factors contribute to the value of a cat’s eye—some of which are the same as for other gems: colour, for example. Some are entirely the opposite of what is expected: the presence of inclusions, in this case.
cLarity
The clarity of any gem will contribute to its value. The less there is to see in a gem, the better. Cat’s eyes, however, must have the parallel needle-like or tube-like inclusions that are the cause of the eye.
Cat’s eye gems aren’t completely transparent, although in the finest specimens, the gem should have a degree of translucency, and transmit light. Ideally, the inclusions should be distributed uniformly, so the gem should not look patchy or zoned due to the inclusions.
Some cat’s eye gems have a high degree of translucency, and others really don’t. Cat’s eye nephrite jade is usually semi-translucent, while cat’s eye quartz is often nearly transparent. One material that really is too soft to use as a gem but is very fun is ulexite. It is almost opaque in one direction, and transparent in another, behaving somewhat like a fibre optic transmitter.
Glass cat’s eye hexagonal fibre bundles
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Colour
The colour of most gems is important. Strong colour, neither too dark nor too light, is, on average, best. The presence of colour (with the exception of most diamonds) is usually very important. Pale colours, dark colours, black, grey and white or colourless are all likely to diminish the value of almost any gem.
The colour of a cat’s eye works the same way. Bright colour makes any gem prettier, and this applies to cat’s eyes as much as any gem. Bright primary colours, red, yellow, blue (plus green) are pretty, but also rare in all gems. Yellow comes first in cat’s eyes, with golden chrysoberyl being the most famous species.
There are, however, some interesting cat’s eye gems in most other colours. Tourmaline is found in colourless, black, and pretty much all colours. Cat’s eye tourmaline is found, most attractively, in pinks and reds, and also blue and green colours and others. The eye in tourmaline is usually a broad band, caused by hollow tubes in the gem.
Apatite is an interesting, though soft, gem found in green and yellow cat’s eyes. Beryl, the parent mineral of emerald and aquamarine, can produce some very attractive blue to blue-green aquamarine cat’s eyes, as well.
Some gems have less than interesting colour: sillimanite or fibrolite cat’s eyes, for example, are often greyish in colour, usually with a very fine, sharp and well defined cat’s eye. I guess you can’t have it all.
EyE of thE tigEr
A really inexpensive gem that shows a cat’s eye is tiger eye, a type of quartz. It’s a golden, golden
brown, or in rare cases, greenish blue colour. Tiger eye is opaque, and is formed from wavy fibres, sometimes showing more than one parallel eye in a single gem. It’s widely available, very modestly priced and also available dyed into red, blue or green colours.
Even more modestly priced is cat’s eye glass, sometimes called “catsite.” This is often a grey material that has a really sharp, straight, well-formed cat’s eye, and is actually formed from parallel fibre optic glass fibres. Gemologically, this glass is interesting because looking from the side of the cabochon or bead, you can usually see hexagonal or square bundles of the glass fibres fused together.
A rArE CombinAtion
One cat’s eye that does seem to have it all is alexandrite cat’s eye. These gems, famously from Russia, more frequently come from India and Brazil. Cat’s eye alexandrite has a cat’s eye, usually quite sharp, and also a degree of colour-change, usually blue in daylight, and purple in incandescent light. The combination of these two phenomena makes cat’s eye alexandrite very rare. In a fine specimen, it is the most costly cat’s eye gem on the market.
Though you won’t likely have busloads of customers arriving at your door asking for cat’s eyes, you can certainly have some fun with these gems. Having a few looking at the customers while the customers look at them is a great way to start a conversation about interesting gems.
Who knows—an alexandrite cat’s eye could be just what the customer who has everything really needs. [CJ]
Gems that show a cat’s eye actinolite
alexandrite
amphibole
apatite
beryl
chrome diopside
chrysoberyl
corundum
diopside
enstatite
feldspar
Fibrolite
glass
hexagonite
kornerupine
Kunzite
Nephtheline
Nephrite
Obsidian
Peridot
Petalite-analcime
Prehnite
Quartz
Satelite
Scapolite
Shell
sillimanite
Spodumene
Tourmaline
Tremolite
Ulexite
Zircon
Zoisite
Chrysoberyl cat’s eye milk and honey appearance
Chrysoberyl cat’s eyes
Tiger eye cat’s eye
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POLYGON/CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE DIAMOND REPORT
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Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in November 2011.
Trusted by thousands of members in over 34 countries, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for quali�ed gem and jewelleryprofessionals. Since 1984, Polygon has helped members gain invaluable knowledge and �nd unique trading opportunities that have signi�cantly impactedthe year over year growth of their business. Members bene�t from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estatepieces, high end watches, jewellery, loose diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, coins and more. �e high calibre of the membership and the active participationof some of the brightest minds in the industry have made our community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade.
Find out how you can be part of one of the most exclusive groups of jewellery professionals.
Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. �e data re�ects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. �e report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in November 2011..
Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billion dollars.
K 9946 9622 9193 8010 7520 6854 5926 3528 K 14427 14134 13995 12581 11217 9117 7980 4314
Trusted by thousands of members, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelry professionals. Over 2,800 members
benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches, jewelry, loose diamonds, colored stones,
pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon's pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon's
community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email [email protected] for more information.
The total asking price of the listings in Polygon’s diamond database is more than $3 billion. Stones are listed for sale by more than 700 dealers from around the world. All
transactions are conducted privately between buyer and seller. Polygon doesn't make any representations whatsoever with respect to these indicators. Listings and prices
on Polygon change hourly, and there can be no assurance that a buyer will be able to locate any specific stone at a specific price.
The Diamond Prices report is provided by Polygon for the benfit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of November 1st, 2011. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information
PRICING
Polygon.net is the most active online community and trading network for jewellery professionals.
Jeffrey and Katrina Hess know a thing or two about running a successful jewellery business. Since 1984, Hess Estate Jewelers has traded in expensive estate jewellery, large diamonds and signed pieces, as well as fine art, antiques, silver and diamonds. The Hess’ also dedicate a portion of their business to online trading; Hess Fine Art is engaged in the online purchase and sale of fine watches, both retail and wholesale.
And it doesn’t stop there. The couple also own and operate two luxury jewellery stores. Old Northeast Jewelers, located in St-Petersburg, Florida, specialize in diamonds and fine watches. They are authorized dealers for Ulysse Nardin, Breitling, Ball, Glashutte Original, Bucherer, Romaine Gerome, Tag Heuer, Muhle Glashutte and many other brands.
Jeffrey Hess is a renowned expert on high-end quality timepieces and vintage watches. He is the author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches, An Unauthorized History, and he has earned his place as a cornerstone in the luxury chronograph market. In recognition of this, Mühle Glashütte
created a limited collection exclusively for Hess Fine Arts. As a Graduate Gemologist, Katrina Hess brings many years of experience and expertise in gemstones and other jewels.
Members of Polygon since 1987, the Hess’ say that Polygon has allowed them to “earn a PhD in jewellery.” Here is one of their stories.
“The Bluff that Backfired”Tampa/St. Pete has one of the most cutthroat jewellery markets in the state, and the competition between stores is ferocious. A few months ago, a local, well-heeled businessman was shopping for a large diamond: five carat, emerald cut, internally flawless. He went to one of my competitors who was able to find him a stone at a reasonable price. In fact, the jeweller was so sure no one could beat it that he challenged the guy.
"If I were you I'd shop around," said the jeweller. "Go to some other stores. See if you can find this good of a stone at this kind of price. I guarantee you won't be able to." Unfortunately for the jeweller, the guy accepted the challenge. He visited a lot of stores without much luck. Then he came here.
Most jewellers would have a hard time filling that call on the spot. Not us. We have Poly-Power. I put the request out on Polygon and found the right stone in a few minutes. It was a better price, and we made the sale. The guy's now a regular customer.
That kind of thing happens all the time when you're on Polygon. And it's not just loose stones. Whatever new products or styles are hot in the jewellery industry, you find out about them first on Polygon — because of the information channels. Plus you get the merchandise in your store, on memo, before anyone else in town is even aware of the new trend.
Another huge advantage — I never have to talk to sales people anymore. Ever. Who has time for sales people these days? Everything I need, I get right over Poly: faster and for less money.
Honestly I don't know how it's possible to stay alive in the jewellery business these days without Polygon. The power of this thing's incredible! We have nine employees, and there's a Poly terminal on the desk of every one of them.
Since I got on the network in the late 80's, our firm's retail jewellery business has increased ten-fold. Probably more. Why? Because anytime someone really does shop around, Poly-power ensures that I'm the one who makes the sale.
Dmitry Kaplan stays ahead of the game and opens a unique second location of GemOro in Edmonton
BY CARLOS WEIGLE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LILLIAN PATZ
STYLING BY Karina StenneSLO
OK
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mitry Kaplan likes to stay focused on the future, instead of the past. That approach has served him really well. His store, one that started with only 600 sq ft, has expanded to two grand locations, a 3,000 sq ft
one at the West Edmonton Mall and a stunning new 2,400 sq ft. one downtown.
Still, every story has a beginning. His began in 1980, when he and his family arrived in Canada from the former Soviet Union. Dmitry’s father, who had operated a large department store back home had extensive experience in retail, which he applied to a few different projects until he found his new home in the jewellery industry. The results were encouraging. “To be honest with you, most of the things that my dad touches turn out to be a success,” explains Kaplan.
As for himself, the passion for jewellery started at a young age. “As a kid, I knew I had to help my parents. On the other hand, who doesn’t like all the ‘bling’ and all the watches? I saw my dad travel to jewellery shows and there was always a certain kind of glamour involved. It is almost
catchy, almost viral. I also travelled with my parents to some of the shows throughout the years.”
In spite of all the trade shows he was attending, Kaplan remembers one in particular. He was sent to Toronto to spend a few days at the JCK show and that was certainly an eyeopener for him. After graduating from the University of Alberta, he joined the family business.
The business was doing well, even though he admits that, coming from Europe, they had a different taste from the one that was prevalent in Canada at the time. Since then, it seems our country has been catching up with outside trends. “I believe it has to do in part with people coming from
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different societies and cultures, bringing their own tastes and ultimately influencing the Canadian market,” explains Kaplan. Then, 20 years ago, the Kaplan family decided to change its profile to target a more high-end consumer, a direction that caused many eyebrows to raise. “I remember when we started bringing all kinds of high-end jewellery and brands, one of our good friends, a supplier, said we were crazy, that we would never make it since we were going the opposite way of those who had success stories to tell,” he says.
Kaplan has a perfect explanation of why they switched gears and ventured into (at least then) unexplored territory: “Doing business the way everybody else was doing it just wasn’t working for us; it did not give us any pleasure or satisfaction, or make us feel proud of what we were doing at the end of the day.” Luckily, they followed their instincts. “We stuck to our goals and took our business where we wanted to take it,” he recalls. “It was a lot of difficult work, but I guess as long as you are committed and passionate about where you are going and what your goals are, people will understand, respect and appreciate it and come back to you because of it.” Interestingly enough, many retailers and manufacturers have recently chosen to focus on the high-end market. “I think that direction is not only applicable to jewellery but to almost every industry in North America or perhaps the rest of the world as well,” Kaplan points out. “The middle class seems to be disappearing in the political and economical spheres and it seems the wealthier are getting wealthier and the poor are getting poorer. Being in business, you have to offer the right things or else you will have a lot of empty days in your store.”
The transition was not an easy one and obviously didn’t happen overnight. As Kaplan describes it, “it was a difficult path, it was hard to break in. You have to introduce yourself and make people believe in you. It’s not just introducing yourself to suppliers and manufacturers but also to your new customers, while holding on to the old ones because you don’t want to lose them along the way.”
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The landscape is certainly different these days. It was hard to impose fast-forward trends back in the 80s, when you had to travel from Edmonton to New York just to buy a Gucci watch. “Today any kind of product is available anywhere and even if it isn’t, it can be with a phone call. Everybody knows what’s going on and more people are travelling these days,” says Kaplan. That, of course, has all kinds of consequences. “Because people are more and more exposed to products, they also started realizing the difference in quality and prices.”
The fact that consumers know their products well also makes them demand more from retailers. In that respect, Kaplan says that “continuing education plays a big role in maintaining a high level of service and satisfaction, as well as consumer confidence. We emphasize that by arranging regular training days for our staff, when they learn about our brands and visit manufacturers. This educates them and allows them to truly translate the image and excitement back to the consumer.
As for GemOro, the new realities have meant, for instance, that nowadays 60 to 70 per cent of their business is related to watches, not jewellery. “As you get into higher-end products, branding plays a very important role,” explains Kaplan. “Jewellery manufacturers have had a much harder time in terms of branding, compared to the watch industry. I think there is a lot of jewellery out there and there are so many suppliers that make it so readily available. You know, demand and supply is still your basic principle in economics. If you want to brand something higher end you have to limit supply. This is something that jewellery manufacturers have had a much more difficult time with, compared to the watch industry.”
“On a watch, for example, you can always put a brand name on its dial, that is a big part on the recognition of the brand. When it comes to jewellery, you cannot write on top of a diamond or ruby. You can put it on the inside
of the band, but people can’t see it there. Whereas if you are wearing a Rolex or a Cartier watch, it can be seen and people will ask, ‘Is that a Rolex watch you are wearing’”? Currently GemOro carries brands such as Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Tag Heuer, Chanel, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, Baume & Mercier and many more. The online experience has had an evident impact on the jewellery industry (as well as on many others), not only because consumers now have instant access to discount retailers, they can also easily compare prices. Although he admits there will always be bargain hunters, Kaplan believes there are other ways to stay relevant and thrive in today’s online-heavy market: “At the end of the day, people still appreciate good service and having someone to talk to. You have to be able to maintain that level of satisfaction and
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service with the customer, because it is not just about having that watch or jewellery, it is about having that relationship to maintain your jewellery afterwards. It’s easy to go to the Caribbean or the Internet and buy a $10,000 watch. However, eventually you will need someone to service that watch or jewellery. Whether it’s resizing a ring or doing an overhaul of a watch’s movement, there is much more than just the initial purchase.”
That quality of service certainly played a key role in GemOro’s success, one that prompted Kaplan to open a second location in downtown Edmonton. The new store has been garnering all sorts of compliments and it’s clear why. Among its many features, it boasts the fact that it doesn’t have any straight angles and avoids square shapes altogether. A Rolex boutique – the first of others to come – adds to the wow factor, as does a brand new watches and jewellery gallery. The store has opened partially – to serve its loyal holiday shoppers – and is expected to be completed within the next few weeks. “I really think that it is a beautiful store, simply gorgeous, and I am really proud of it. Without putting my nose up in the air, I truly think that it raises the bar in the industry,” adds Kaplan.
Always looking forward, Kaplan ponders if his children will eventually take over and continue the work his father started. The answer is: very likely. “I have three children, two sons and a younger daughter. One of my sons – who’s 13 years old – actually expressed interest in coming in for one of the training sessions we provide, and I can see that he is busy taking notes and listening very attentively. However, I do not push them one way or another. When we go on vacation my other son is always in every jewellery store, collecting catalogues. By the time he is finished collecting them they are heavier than he is!”
With two stores, a staff of 17, and a reputation based on decades of good service, Kaplan realizes his path has diverted from the original one and that the “goldsmith” title that appears right beside his company’s name might remain there more as an homage to his first steps in the industry than as a reflection of where he is now. “We still have a certified appraiser, we do goldsmithing, but it is a very small part of our business and we do it mostly for our customers,” he says. Instead of reminiscing about past goals and accomplishments, Kaplan prefers to focus on what’s coming next. The future, at least for GemOro, seems bright. [CJ]
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productfocus
WhiteThe consumer love affair with white metal jewellery looks like it’s here to stayBy E. Z. GulEr-Tuck
Over the last decade, demand for white metals—from wedding bands to premium watches, and everything in between—has swept through the jewellery sector. And it’s not just celebrities who are opting for metals such as platinum and white gold over traditional yellow gold.
To counter the trend, last spring the World Gold Council launched a rebranding campaign that would put yellow gold back into position as first choice for jewellers, with the tagline “glow with gold.” Whether the campaign will help reinvent this old-school metal’s slightly tarnished image is hard to say, since white metal has already been termed, by some jewellers as, “the metal of the 21st century.”
Paint it
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18k white gold chandelier drop-style earrings with omega backs, prong and pavé set with eight pear-shaped diamonds, 38 marquise cut diamonds, 14 round, brilliant cut diamonds and 300 round brilliant cut diamonds, from Nova
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WhiteSo, is it the end of an era, or just a trend that’s bound to fade away?
Constant market ups and downs for gold and the rise of white metals seem to be leading to a more permanent change in the precious metals market. This is despite the fact that the safety and reliability of gold as an investment for consumers has not faltered, regardless of market fluctuation. Even as gold prices rise and fall, countries such as India and China continue to get caught up in the gold rush.
Still, the rate at which white metals such as platinum and palladium are gaining popularity over gold is nothing to sneeze at—especially when it comes to jewellery.
“At least 80 per cent of our sales are white, with 18k and 19k palladium-alloyed gold gaining strength,” says Rose Taylor of Taylor’s Jewellers. “Bridal, watches and pretty much all pieces are white in colour.”
Pink becoming PoPular
While the demand for gold has seen a turn from yellow to white, other golds have been making their way into the spotlight, as well. Alanna Van Rijk, Diamond & Watch Specialist at Van Rijk Estate Jewellers, points out that “pink gold has become more popular this year for women and men. White gold is still the top favourite, but people say that yellow will be coming back.”
White metal is functional and malleable; that’s why many jewellers seek white metal that is both castable and polishable, with good flow characteristics and low grades of porosity. “The advantage of using white metals is the flexibility you have with more design options,” explains Grace Ng, VP of Sales for PAJ Canada & ELLE Jewelry and Time Canada. “Due to the gold pricing, most pieces are small and dainty, whereas with the white metals, you can still have the look, or include more fashion designs, at a fraction of the price of gold.”
productfocus
14k White Gold White Mother-of-Pearl Bracelets with Diamond Accents
Pandora LovePods stackable rings with 18k white gold and pavé set diamonds
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The whiTe side of gold
White gold is still the tried and true metal of choice for all types of jewellery, from engagement rings to wedding bands, and is perfectly matched with semi-precious to precious stones. “The difference between white and yellow gold is that white gold shows off diamonds and coloured stones better than yellow gold,” says Alanna Van Rijk. “It also makes the stones look whiter, whereas when you place diamonds beside the yellow, you can start to see the yellow hue.”
Moreover, while white gold used to be the colour of choice for younger consumers, especially younger brides-to-be, jewellers are now finding its appeal is extending to all age groups.
The silver bulleT
The surge of savvy “cashmen” promising to dole out cash for silver, in addition to gold and jewellery, in TV ads may or may not be an indication of how far this white metal has come in recent years. However, the rise of silver prices might just be that telltale sign. Silver has gone from being an inexpensive alternative to gold to a significant commodity on the exchange market. Most recently, silver has inched its way into position as a suitable and chic alternative to yellow and white golds.
“Retailers have continuously communicated the heightened consumer demand for rhodium plated, plain sterling silver, as well as sterling silver with CZ and diamonds,” says Grace Ng. “The increasing price of fashion jewellery has also encouraged consumers to invest their money in sterling silver.” Ng also suggests that for those who still prefer the gold colour, they have options of silver with gold plate.
going plaTinum
Platinum still drives most bridal jewellery; however, its steep price has started to dissuade some of today’s more pocketbook-conscious consumers. While consumers with more dollars to spend on precious metals and stones have started putting their trust, and dollars, into this fine metal, it still isn’t the popular choice for the mainstream.
“Platinum, although cheaper in price per ounce, is heavier and therefore still costs more,” notes Rose Taylor.
playing wiTh palladium
Most jewellers are familiar with palladium, as this metal is most commonly used as an alloy, mixed with white gold. With the rising prices of other metals, many consumers have started to consider palladium as a top-notch alternative to gold.
“When I am making custom work, I’m getting asked for palladium and platinum quotes, as [customers] hear that gold is so much higher… so the advertising [for palladium] is having an effect on people,” says Anne-Marie Warburton of Gallery Gemma in Alton, Ontario. “This encourages me to want to make more pieces for inventory in palladium and platinum, as well.”
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Sterling silver “Escape” collection open ring, from ELLE
Earrings with 30 Rough Diamonds totaling 27.08cts set in 18k White Gold with Micro Pave Diamond Accents
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THE HEAVY METALS
Titanium
Titanium is considered the strongest metal in the world. In fact, in the durability department, nothing tops titanium, as it is three times stronger than gold, silver or platinum. Yet it is still surprisingly light.
What makes this metal so appropriate for jewellery design is its 100 per cent hypoallergenic properties; its higher resistance to dents, scratches and bending, compared to the three metals just mentioned; and its versatility in colour.
“We brought in a line of men’s jewellery—Edward Mirell—in titanium and black titanium, and it has been a huge hit in men’s rings,” says Anne-Marie Warburton. “The price points are great, the pieces are very light to wear and the men like the wear-and-tear features of titanium. Titanium, for example, is so affordable. Now, I cannot work in titanium, as this requires specialized equipment; however, given the response we have had, I will continue to carry it and expand on the items. It is a bit grey for women’s jewellery, in my opinion.”
Mike Sapir, Partner at Nova Diamonds and Mirage Creations, says that for 2012, it seems the trends are dictating that, at the very least “for men’s [jewellery]…the most coveted metals will be titanium and gold.” Whether women’s tastes fall in line with the affordability and durability of this heavy metal remains to be seen.
Stainless steel
Some high-end jewellers may cringe at the thought of stainless steel jewellery, since it is more often used in fashion jewellery than in fine jewellery design. The pendants, bracelets and necklaces of the stainless steel variety tend to attract younger folks just starting to make jewellery purchases; however, more recently, “stainless steel…has been a common alternative for men’s jewellery,” say Grace Ng.
Tungsten carbide
Tungsten carbide, or “tungsten” for short, is a metal favoured for men’s engagement rings, since it is durable, extremely scratch resistant and can be permanently polished.
Tungsten is one of the heavier metals, and therefore is not preferred by fine jewellers who specialize in more delicate, detailed designs. It is said that tungsten rings are 10 times harder than 18k gold. When it comes to price, while platinum plays to the top end of the market, tungsten definitely takes its place in the lower end.
Ceramic: the new white
White metal is not the only type of material to be a strong contender in the jewellery market.
“Ceramic is another way that white has been introduced into our store,” says Anne-Marie Warburton. “We have white ceramic watches and they sell very well because they are ceramic that can be worn year-round. Also, because there is more white in the stores now, the opposite is also true: more black is selling, like the black titanium and black ceramic, black rhodium on diamond rings in 18k gold, blackened/oxidized sterling silver, since it makes diamonds and yellow gold pop.”
Jewellers and retailers across the country over the last decade have caught on to the fact that their inventories must remain stocked with a manageable supply of white metals (and ceramics). As long as the infatuation with white continues—in every shape, form and alloy combination—steady traffic will continue to flow into stores and boutiques in the coming years. [CJ]
Stervling silver “Gateway” collection Loveknot pendant, from ELLE
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L a minière Goldcorp a � nalement reçu le feu vert de toutes les instances publiques pour débuter l’exploitation du projet Éléonore.
Découvert en 2004 par la compagnie d’exploration Virginia, le gisement Roberto, situé à 300 kilomètres au nord de Matagami, fut racheté par Goldcorp en 2006. À la suite de son grand programme d’exploration, les ressources estimées du site sont évaluées à plus de neuf millions d’onces d’or. Pour les responsables de l’entreprise, cette estimation est conservatrice et d’autres découvertes dans le futur pourraient facilement augmenter le potentiel aurifère d’Éléonore.
Après avoir passé les étapes de consultations publiques, une avancée majeure est réalisée par la compagnie en février 2011, avec l’annonce de la
signature d’une entente avec la communauté crie de Wemindji, située à 200 kilomètres du projet Éléonore.
Le projet, situé dans le Nord-du-Québec sur le territoire de la communauté, prévoit entre autres des redevances � nancières et l’embauche d’employés cris. Par cette entente, Goldcorp s’engage à respecter un critère essentiel pour la communauté de Wemindji, soit de protéger la rivière Opinaca.
Lorsque le conseil d’administration de Goldcorp a choisi d’aller de l’avant, ce n’est pas en faisant des économies de bouts de chandelles. Pour la construction de la mine, un montant à investir de 1,4 millard $ a été prévu par les responsables. Une des forces du projet est la proximité du projet Eastmain 1-A d’Hydro-Québec, qui permet à la compagnie de béné� cier de l’électricité à un tarif raisonnable.
Le projet Éléonore : une mine d’or parmi les plus riches au Canada
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Au total, il est prévu que 600 000 onces d’or par année seront exploitées, pour une durée de vie d’environ quinze ans. Les coûts de production seraient en dessous de 400 $ par once. Pour la construction de la mine, plus de 400 travailleurs étaient déjà sur le site à l’automne 2011, dont plus de la moitié sont originaires de l’Abitibi-Témiscamingue. Dès mai 2012, ce chi� re grimpera à 600 travailleurs.
D’ici là, beaucoup reste à faire par la compagnie a� n qu’elle puisse respecter son échéancier initial, soit de couler la première once d’or au courant du dernier trimestre de 2014. Dès l’obtention de toutes les autorisations et certi� cats, la construction du puits de production et de la station électrique de 120 000 volts commencera.
La construction d’une route permanente d’une soixantaine de kilomètres est également au sommet des priorités. Pendant que ce projet se concrétise, la compagnie a dû opter pour le transport des matériaux avec des barges.
AUTRES PROJETS DANS L’ACTUALITÉ
La mine de l’Abitibi-Témiscamingue qui a le plus fait parler d’elle au cours des dernières semaines, c’est Goldex, d’Agnico Eagle, qui a choisi de stopper son exploitation, car elle ne pouvait garantir la sécurité de ses travailleurs en raison d’une in� ltration d’eau à travers les parois de la mine souterraine et d’un risque d’e� ondrement. La décision a touché 233 employés et une
centaine de contractuels. Avec cette décision, Agnico Eagle a laissé sous terre l’équivalent d’un million d’onces d’or qui pourraient être récupérées dans le futur si cela peut se faire de façon sécuritaire. La minière est en train d’évaluer ses options, dont l’exploitation de zones aurifères connexes à Goldex.
La Corporation Royal Nickel voit grand avec son projet Dumont, situé à Launay, à une vingtaine de kilomètres d’Amos. La compagnie veut exploiter un gisement de nickel à ciel ouvert, si possible, dès 2015. L’étude de préfaisabilité laisse entrevoir un potentiel de 96 millions de nickel exploité en moyenne durant les 19 années d’opération du projet Dumont. La compagnie mène actuellement des travaux techniques et veut compléter son étude de faisabilité pour obtenir les permis pour la � n 2013.
En bout de ligne, il y a longtemps que l’Abitibi-Témiscamingue a pu béné� cier d’une manne économique si importante pour mener son développement aussi loin. Que ce soit pour les compagnies minières, toutes encouragées par le prix élevé du métal jaune, ou les entreprises preneuses d’ordres, qui pro� tent de cette opportunité pour développer un savoir-faire et une expertise exportables à l’échelle internationale, l’e� ervescence est palpable. Toutefois, plus les projets se développent, plus les dé� s di� èrent. Déjà, la ressource la plus recherchée par plusieurs, c’est la main-d’œuvre. [CJ]
Noam Carver est un sculpteur, designer et orfèvre dont les bijoux allient des motifs classiques et contemporains de partout au monde avec la majesté des ornements royaux. Ses conceptions ont mérité une multitude de prix.
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QUELQUES CONSEILS SUR LE MÉTIER DANS LA PROVINCE
En tant que designer montréalais qui a été formé et a étudié au Québec, et continue à être influencé par une province dont la culture est inextricablement liée aux arts, j’ai le plaisir de contribuer au magazine Canadian Jeweller et de partager mes expériences, mon évolution et mes inspirations.
Je me pencherai sur les multiples facettes de l’industrie de la bijouterie-joaillerie au Québec en relatant des exemples tirés de mes expériences au sein de celle-ci. En commençant avec les bases d’une formation initiale et d’un stage d’apprentissage, je poursuivrai avec le réseau des fournisseurs et des artisans, et je présenterai certains designers qui se démarquent au Québec et à l’échelle internationale.
À CHACUN SON CHEMIN
La tradition de l’artisanat se porte bien au Québec, une province où le soutien des arts est une valeur bien ancrée. Il y a plusieurs options qui s’offrent à nous lorsque nous choisissons notre parcours professionnel. Il existe plusieurs écoles très reconnues qui offrent une multitude de spécialisations touchant le domaine de la joaillerie. Si vous souhaitez
poursuivre des études ou simplement acquérir de l’expérience dans le métier, l’option qui vous convient est à portée de la main. Une alternative aux études est un stage d’apprentissage, qui nécessite cependant des contacts dans l’industrie qui sont prêts à vous aider. L’expérience en tête-à-tête a de grands avantages, mais est souvent moins structurée et ciblée qu’un programme académique. J’ai eu la possibilité d’accéder aux deux options, en suivant d’abord un stage et par la suite, en prenant des cours spécialisés dans une école de joaillerie pour parfaire mes connaissances. Une option n’est pas meilleure que l’autre, car chaque situation est unique et tout dépend du niveau d’engagement et de motivation de chacun.
Un excellent joaillier se distingue par sa capacité d’appliquer les techniques apprises et de transformer les idées en projets concrets.
Cette exploration est un processus sans fin qui connait une constante évolution. En améliorant ses compétences, les obstacles techniques sont surmontés, laissant ainsi place à une créativité accrue. Nos limites sont testées tous les jours et notre détermination est constamment remise en question lors de notre quête du succès dans ce métier. Il y a toujours des connaissances à découvrir et chaque nouvelle idée mène à de nouveaux défis. La clé du succès est de ne jamais abandonner et de toujours chercher à se surpasser. Il faut résister à la tentation de se décourager face aux obstacles, car il y a espoir d’arriver au moment zen qui se produit lorsque le combat personnel est terminé et une nouvelle œuvre créée. Celle-ci a débuté dans l’imagination et est maintenant concrétisée; un processus de création édifiant et motivant pour chaque joaillier.
Je perçois ce processus comme métaphore qui s’applique à tous les aspects de la vie. La réussite personnelle n’est jamais facilement atteinte. Nous avons tendance à nous concentrer sur le résultat plutôt que le processus qui nous y amène. Que ce soit au niveau professionnel ou interpersonnel, le résultat reflète l’effort fourni. Évoluer dans un milieu enrichissant et être exposé à une culture qui valorise les arts est un
atout. Au Québec, il n’est pas difficile de trouver un moyen d’accéder à une profession ou à un métier. De plus, c’est un environnement où l’on retrouve non seulement talent, mais également compétition. C’est donc à chacun de relever le défi.
Il existe trois grandes écoles de joaillerie au Québec, dont l’École des métiers du Sud-Ouest-de-Montréal, l’École de joaillerie de Montréal et l’École de joaillerie de Québec. Les deux dernières offrent des cours d’initiation destinés au grand public ainsi que des cours de perfectionnement pour les artisans. Les trois écoles offrent des programmes complets de deux ans équivalents au diplôme d’études collégiales. Je vous encourage fortement à consulter les programmes et choisir celui qui vous convient. [CJ]
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excellenceindesign
1. DIAMONDS • WINNERKarin Bunzeit
Stittgen Fine Jewelry, Vancouver
“Enchanted Garden” Diamond RingThis handmade filigree ring showcases a 1.02 ct cognac diamond set in an “enchanted garden” of 19k white gold and diamond pavé rails along with an 18k yellow gold filigree centre, dotted with diamond accents. Total carat weight of diamond and pavé accents is 0.70.
2. DIAMONDS • SECOND PLACE WINNERTerry & Julia George
The Golden Tulip, St. John’s
Diamond Drop Earrings with Neo-Classical FlairFeaturing four different cuts of diamonds – pear, briolette, round and oval – to optimize reflected light from all angles, these dramatic, hand-crafted diamond drop earrings in 18k white gold have neo-classical flair. Total carat weight is 5.24
3. DIAMONDS • THIRD PLACE WINNERShelly Purdy
Shelly Purdy Studio, Toronto
Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring Inspired by the Royal Wedding and the Imperial State Crown with its Maltese Cross and blue sapphires, this 14k white gold diamond engagement ring showcases a 1.01 ct marquise diamond with 0.10 ct blue sapphire accents on each side.
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2011 Excellence In Design WinnersBy Norma meNeguzzi-Spall
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1. PEARLS • WINNERMichael daCosta
Fortunes Fine Jewellery, Toronto
Dramatic South Sea Pearl and Diamond Drop EarringsA pair of South Sea cultured pearls dangles at the end of a single looping strand of 18k white gold set with 1.26 ctw of diamonds. While simplistically elegant, the mirror imaging of these earrings made the design technically challenging.
2. PEARLS • SECOND PLACE WINNERIouri Jiliaev
Jiliaev Jewellery Collection, Vancouver
“Scorpion” Pearl Ring A fascination with scorpions led to this bold yet fluid handmade ring which showcases a golden South Sea pearl set in in 18k yellow and 19k white gold. A row of rubies, 1.03 cts, and black diamonds, 0.60 cts, create a dramatic tri-colour effect.
3. PEARLS • THIRD PLACE WINNERAnto Partamian
Mava Style, Laval, Quebec
Ultra-Contemporary Pearl and Sterling Silver Cocktail Ring This handcrafted sleek and airy sterling silver cocktail ring has bolts of 14k yellow gold flashing two white and two black pearls atop silver wires which have been braided or knotted.
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excellenceindesign
1. PLATINUM • WINNERNoam Carver
Montreal
Men’s Domed Platinum RingA band of carved quartz and onyx centre stone makes a powerful and bold statement in this platinum men’s ring with 18k yellow gold accents.
2. PLATINUM • SECOND PLACE WINNERLisanne Skeoch
Lisanne Skeoch Jewellery, Toronto
Pure Platinum EleganceA 1.03 ct princess-cut bezel-set diamond sits elegantly atop a platinum engagement ring. Encircling the sides of the raised bevelled setting are 20 x 0.01 ct diamonds. Two matching platinum wedding bands containing 40 x 0x.01 cts diamonds in each flank the engagement ring.
3. PLATINUM • THIRD PLACE WINNERThierry Belisha
Crown Ring, Montreal
Platinum and Diamond Wedding Band – Fusion of Art & Architecture Architecture meets art in this platinum and diamond wedding band that fuses numerous elements together including multi-layered segments and over 100 diamonds. Every detail has been precisely calibrated utilizing cutting-edge technology.
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1. COLOURED GEMSTONES • WINNERLlyn L. Strelau
Jewels By Design, Calgary
“Silent Comes The Night” Collar NeckpieceHammered-finish plaques of black onyx are interspersed with textured 19k white gold dividers for a dramatic statement in evening jewellery.
2. COLOURED GEMSTONES • SECOND PLACE WINNERMichael DaCosta
Fortunes Fine Jewellery, Toronto
Kunzite and Diamond Cocktail RingA 27.26 ct. oval kunzite provides a feminine touch to the sharp yet light-filled asymmetrical lines of this 18k white gold mount which is accented by round brilliant cut diamonds totalling 1.30 cts.
3. COLOURED GEMSTONES • THIRD PLACE WINNERSusan Roberts
SLR Designs, Calgary
“Eau de Nil” Aquamarine Middle-Finger Ring A 26.23 ct. aquamarine cabochon creates a watery effect in this 14k white gold middle-finger ring that is accented with 0.70 cts of round brilliant diamonds and two yellow sapphire cabochons.
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thenewluxury
Growing up a sports competitor and winning world championships instilled an edge in a young Ramin Mesgarlou. “My motto was and still is: if it exists,
make it better; if it doesn’t exist, create it,” he says today.
In 2005, Mesgarlou, CEO and Founder of Global Wealth Trade (GWT), launched FERI, a jewellery line that included silver, high-tech ceramic, tungsten and plangsten lines. Then came his 19k Bridal Signature collection. Soon his company perfected a 22-step manufacturing process with a 21k gold compound and flawless stones to create an exquisite line of jewellery called FERI MOSH.
“FERI MOSH is in a category of its own; a design can sometimes take up to 12 weeks to produce one item,” Mesgarlou says. “We call it the world’s first prestige line.”
Super-luxuriouS
All FERI MOSH rings are custom made and hand built in GWT design studios and labs. This gives them an exclusivity that Mesgarlou compares to that of the most luxurious cars in the world. “There are luxury cars like Bentley that would be the Harry Winston and Cartiers of the jewellery world,” he says. “Then you have the super-luxury Bugatti. That would be us.”
The FERI MOSH ultra-lavish jewellery collection will have its formal launch in 2012. Still, Mesgarlou continues to have lofty goals for his jewellery brand. “In the next five to 10 years,” he says from his Toronto headquarters, “we’re putting multi-million dollar galleries in Hong Kong, Paris, Rome, London, New York, Dubai and Shanghai, with high-profile events in various key cities around the world.”
Mesgarlou has reason to boast of his Canadian brand, which is sold globally through distributors instead of directly to the public. It is already making fashion headlines and showing up on celebrities. “I’ve been told by our company on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills that we are becoming a buzzword among designers,” he says.
FERI MOSHaims to be “above all”The super-luxury brand is becoming coveted for its craftsmanship and stunning designs
BY BONNIE SIEGLER
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thenewluxury
StarS love it
Gene Simmons, Shannon Tweed, Eric Roberts and Neve Campbell have all recently been spotted wearing FERI MOSH designs. The brand has also been featured in the pages of many upscale fashion magazines.
Not content to sit on his laurels, Mesgarlou, who has a background in business and marketing, and is a native Persian, has launched luxury handbags and wallets, and extravagant sunglasses. And he plans to eventually produce high-end shoes. So in a sluggish economy, how has GWT succeeded beyond other similar companies?
“When there is an economic crisis around the world, it means the middle class suffers,” Mesgarlou answers. “But studies show that during these times the number of rich people also increases (it has, in fact, tripled since 1993). I think people are now, more than ever, interested in investing in quality. Secondly, part of what makes us unique is our marketing niche and platform.”
Have a plan
Mesgarlou acknowledges that it is a highly competitive market, although he adds, “Find a niche and go with it. Have a long-term vision and a good
plan. We don’t deal with the public; we only deal with stores. We have luxury consultants around the world, and they have distributorships to get access to our lines.”
While Mesgarlou’s background includes family in the jewellery manufacturing business since 1882 and 21 years of personal marketing expertise, it was his decision to build the unique FERI MOSH platform in the profitable markets of fashion and jewellery. This has become a winning strategy, and so the FERI MOSH tagline, “Above All,” seems apt. [CJ]
Below: Feri Mosh SP21, Empire ring; 21k white gold, micro pavé with black and white diamonds.
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designerprofi le | ClaudioPino
Upon hearing that his young son wanted to study jewellery design, Claudio Pino’s father had these words of advice: “Do whatever you want to, but do it the best you can.”
Since that time, Pino has been working to transform raw materials into precious objects. � rough discipline and perseverance, the transplanted Chilean who has lived in Montreal since 1986 credits his father and Canada for his success today. “In Canada, I was able to pursue my dream,” he says.
Combining cold silver with the warmth of gold in his rings, Pino captures and combines the days and nights, suns and moons, and yin and yang of life’s connections. “I like to juxtapose hot and cold colours together, searching for balance and equilibrium in the jewellery designs. In many cultures, the combination of hot and cold elements is essential to creating the ideal sensory order, such as within the Barasana community of the Amazon,” he says.
Art meets scienceClaudio Pino designs sculptural rings that re� ect the wearer’s movementsBY BONNIE SIEGLER
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ClaudioPino | designerprofile
With a deep-rooted sense of jewellery craftsmanship, Pino has studied contemporary jewellery making, lapidary, gemology and mineralogy, and recently received an advanced training certificate in faceted gem cutting. Defining his designs as far as current fashion is concerned, the 40-something designer says, “My jewellery designs embody the desire to be unique, distinct and original.”
majestiC mother
Pino’s first jewellery design was a ring named “Majestic,” made to honor his mother in 1994, while studying the jewellery process. “The shape of the ring was like a queen’s crown, with three black Tahitian pearls accompanied by a beautiful briolette-cut emerald in the middle,” he recalls. “The three pearls represented the day of her birthday, and the emerald is her birthstone.”
In 1999, Pino sold his first commercial pieces in the U.S. and France. “They were sculptural and kinetic, yet comfortable and wearable for special events,” he says. “My trademark was to be exclusive and eccentric. I started to design rings with tiny mechanisms that allowed the stones the freedom to follow the owner’s hand movements and remain facing up, like guardian angels watching over their owners.”
The rings also mechanically follow body movements, reflecting them in many small, intricate ways. Because some of Pino’s clients were collecting his rings as sculptures, he created small, unique stands that enable the rings to be exhibited instead of remaining out of sight in boxes.
aroUND the WorLD
Since 1999, Pino’s collections have been shown at numerous international exhibitions throughout the world. In October, 2009, his ring “Infinities” received the Best In Show 2009 Steel Trophy award from the Metal Arts Guild of Canada, reflecting his passion for science, nature and technology.
Pino explains that the ring, made from 14k gold, 925 silver, moonstone, diamonds and ruby, “…represents weightlessness. I have always been
influenced by the details of my surroundings, my daily experiences and the environments in which I worked. I am fascinated by the fast pace of science and technology and nature’s ability to adapt to constant change. Plants respond to changing environments, and the human body has the extraordinary ability to survive in the harshest circumstances.
“I decided to design a ring that represents the unique sensation of weightlessness, by including a moonstone attached to the centre of a mechanism. This stone portrays a drop of water floating freely in space. All of my designs portray distinct systems in movement and reflect the integration of multiple cycles, such as the cycle of the mo0on, sun, ocean, life and the seasons—and the cycle of dreams and emotions.”
Keeping in mind that science and technology evolve at an increasingly rapid pace, Pino moves forward undaunted. “Recently, I started to design jewellery with 3D modelling software, which gives me a new dimension in which to explore my creative process,” he says. He has also branched out into earrings, necklaces, and bracelets, though rings are still his specialty.
Past aND fUtUre
In spite of how contemporary his rings are, Pino is still very much inspired by designs from the past. “What makes jewellery powerful?” he asks. “Is it the interplay of shifting light or the shadow and depth created through the unique combination of matched metallic colours? Does the vintage surface recall memories and events? I have always been inspired by the
ancient art of jewellery and, more specifically, the history of rings. I seek a combination of physical attributes and sculptural portability, making the jewellery an extension of the body.”
Next year, Pino will introduce his first collection of exclusive contemporary rings made with the rare metal, platinum. “With this precious metal, I intend to incorporate in my designs the exquisite properties and poetry evoked by this luxurious and sensual metal,” he says. [CJ]
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BY LYNNE SHUTTLEWORTH
CanadianSelling high-quality Canadian diamonds is a passion for ERL’s Ronen Ziv
S ince immigrating to Canada from Israel seven years ago, Ronen Ziv has become a patriotic Canadian. That’s ref lected in the name “Canada Pride,” which he chose for the Canadian
diamond division of ERL Diamonds, his Vancouver-based diamond wholesale business.
Ziv believes Canadian diamonds should be accessible to more people, especially to Canadians who wish to support our new national industry.
“We feel Canadian diamonds should not cost more than any other GIA diamond that is on the market,” he says. “You shouldn’t have to pay more to support the Canadian diamond industry, and we are working tirelessly every day to make sure our customers don’t have to.”
Mike Sachs, Vice President of marketing at ERL Diamonds, adds: “Since Canada has diamonds, there’s no reason we shouldn’t be one of the world leaders in diamond manufacturing and products.”
Finished Jewellery & Loose DiamondsNova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower LevelToronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
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A� er all, people are interested in buying Canadian diamonds, as they come unencumbered by doubts about their origins .
“� ere is a big demand for Canadian diamonds at this time, as they are also con� ict-free diamonds,” Sachs says. “Because all of our Canadian diamonds are lasered with the Maple Leaf logo and the Canada pride certi� cate number, and since we’re an upstanding member of the Canadian Code of Conduct, our customers can feel comfortable with their Canadian diamond purchase. � is provides them with the con� dence that they are receiving a con� ict-free diamond that was mined in Canada while following all of our nation’s employment standards.”
BUY CANADIAN
Selling Canadian diamonds made sense for Ziv. “Over the � rst couple of years, more of our customers began asking us about getting Canadian diamonds,” he says. “We had just gone through a growth period and knew that we also needed a niche aspect to our company, to di� erentiate us from other diamond wholesalers.”
ERL has been selling Canadian diamonds for about � ve years now. Before that, Ziv was concentrating on selling imported diamonds. � at’s still a signi� cant part of the business, with ERL carrying certi� ed diamonds from all over the world.
Ziv says he basically “fell into” the diamond business—and married into it as well. “My wife Osnat’s whole family is sprinkled throughout the industry, and when I received an o� er from my close friend in Chicago to open an o� ce in Vancouver... how could I say no? It was a new adventure that I was more than excited to embark on. I had to do schooling and learn the ins and outs of the business, but in this industry you have to learn or you cannot succeed.”
ERL must be doing something right because 2011 was a record year for this company whose growth strategy depends on giving the best customer
service, selling the best quality products and following the best business practices. And, while the company has expanded to open an o� ce in Calgary and an authorized dealership in Toronto, Sachs says, “We want to take our time to make these steps, and go at our own pace.”
RELATIONSHIPS ARE PARAMOUNT
Success could also be attributed to the close relationships Ziv and his colleagues form with their clients, taking an interest in them as people, not just customers.
“Our customers are like family, and we worry about them, and want to help them if they’re going through hard times,” Sachs says.
Ziv says it comes naturally to him to treat customers so well. “It’s in my DNA! And when we interview for employees, we look for this X factor because we feel this quality is needed in our company. I want to surround myself with people who believe in what we are doing and how we are doing it.”
WEATHERING THE STORM
� is positive philosophy should stand Canada Pride in good stead through any economy.
“I have seen the business change a lot,” says Ziv “However, we, like many others, have adapted. With the rise of Blue Nile and the challenges they have caused for our clients, and by proxy ourselves, we have had to improve our way of doing business. Whether it be our customer service, our higher quality goods, our large supply of Canada Pride diamonds, or our easily accessible experts to assist with � nding what you need... we feel that we are prepared to handle any future changes that may occur.”
Furthermore, demand for diamonds is high. “� ere’s a strong belief that diamonds will become a very strong investment tool,” Sachs says “Diamonds � uctuate, and yet they are still an equity. People like to have equity they can hold, wear, touch, and feel.” [CJ]
companyprofi le | CanadaPride
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Ronen Ziv and Michael Sachs(From le� to right) Michael Sachs, Vice President; Suzie Morrison, Lead Sales Associate; Osnat Ziv, Senior Buyer; Ronen Ziv, President; Noy Ziv, Marketing Manager; Robin Ferris, Accounting Department Director
CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 168.
Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375
What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.
A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.
What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.
All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.
Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?
Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.
Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to
further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.
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For details, write #126 on Free Info Page, page 88.
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By working together, we can increase the number of cases that are solved
Nowadays, as well as using DNA to help solve crimes, police also use networking strategies. In the second of two columns, John Lamont, JVC’s Director of Crime Prevention, describes some of the hurdles good policing has to overcome to get the job done. JVC networks with police to assist them in getting past some of those hurdles. In fact, our work with police agencies across Canada has become the backbone of JVC’s Crime Prevention Program. JVC is trying to be part of the solution. Are you?
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Police have always networked among themselves to a certain point, depending on the o� ence. For murders and serious indictable o� ences, they o� en seek assistance from other police agencies. Now they are making a giant move forward by starting to seek assistance from outside that inner circle. In particular, they are asking for help from networks in the private industry such as the Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) network, which stretches from coast to coast, as well as the Canadian Bankers Association and others.
� e JVC network has had great success in connecting criminals to crimes all across Canada. For example, a group of diamond distraction thieves in Ontario was connected to a diamond switch in Red Deer, Alberta. � is is the type of crime police would not normally reach out to other police agencies about, due to the high volume of these types of occurrences. Now the industry can connect the dots for them.
JVC has also been able to help police connect criminals to their crimes, via jewellery that police take from other crimes. Some police services have made it part of their investigation protocol to ask JVC for assistance with this.
ROBBERY INVESTIGATORS SEMINAR
In May last year I attended a police robbery investigators seminar in Edmonton where I heard an excellent presentation by Det. Doug Bedford of the York Regional Police Holdup Squad about an investigation and arrest
of eight members of an organized South American gang operation. It was clear he and his group
of o� cers are very motivated, hard working and dedicated, and that
they follow the motto: “You can’t win if you don’t try.”
� eir investigation involved surveillance, wiretaps, video and networking, with other police services as well as the jewellery industry itself. � is included JVC, which was able
to connect jewellery seized by Det. Bedford to a major break
and enter of a jewellery retailer.
During the seminar, I was sitting with Det. Bedford, when I heard another police o� cer tell him about an organized crime group operating in Calgary and Edmonton at the end of April. I was aware of a travelling salesperson who had been robbed in Calgary at that time, and a courier van delivering customer repairs for a local jeweller in Edmonton that had also been robbed. To me, it sounded like the same MO in both cases, so I passed on the information about the Calgary robbery to Calgary police and an Edmonton police crime analyst who is part of the JVC network.
I did feel concerned when I heard the other o� cer state, “A number of people in this room wouldn’t be interested in getting involved in that type of case, because it’s too much work.” A� er all, the investigation by Det. Bedford had involved hundreds of hours to complete surveillance and all the paperwork to obtain court orders for wiretaps and search warrants. Believe me, real life is nothing like CSI when they say, “I’ll be back shortly with a warrant.”
� ere are many hardworking police o� cers all across Canada who dedicate themselves to protecting the public. � ey need our support and all the help we can give them through our networking and sharing of information. We as an industry must become part of the solution. By all means, report any criminal activity against you to the police, and also � le a report with JVC . It can help solve your incident. Networking can
have a positive impact on catching criminals but networking means you must be part of the solution. [CJ]
“A number of people in this room wouldn’t be interested in getting involved in that type of case, because it’s too much work.”
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“Learning is a treasure which accompanies its owner everywhere.”
-Ancient chinese Proverb
Providing Jewellers With the Foundation to Succeed
For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance
canada has served as a source of support and
education for jewellers throughout canada.
A non-profit overseen by leading industry
professionals, we’ve made it our mission
to provide our members with the education
needed to prevent crime, serve as a key
resource for government agencies, and
set industry standards that aid in building
consumer confidence in the jewellery
products they buy.
Sign up now atwww.jewellerycrimecanada.ca
or call 1-800-636-9536
Jewellers Vigilance Canada
An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry.
c r i m e P r e v e n t i o n • r e s o u r c e P r o t e c t i o n • s A F e t y A w A r e n e s s
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Mar. 8-15BaselWorld – The Watch and Jewellery ShowExhibition Centre Basel (Messe Basel)Basel, SwitzerlandTel: 41-58-206-2525Fax: [email protected]: 100,000Exhibitors: 1,800
Mar. 11-13MJSA Expo New YorkHilton New YorkNew York, NYTel: 1-800-444-6572Fax: [email protected]: 4,000Exhibitors: 180
Mar. 19-20International Watch & Jewelry GuildTropicana Las VegasLas Vegas, NVTel: 713-783-8188Fax: [email protected]
2012 Trade Show Listings
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tradeshowcalendar
Mar. 22-25CNR Expo Fair CenterIstanbul, TurkeyTel: 90-212-519-0719Fax: 90-212-513-3038rotaforte.tr@ubm.comwww.istanbuljewelryshow.comAttendees: 35,000Exhibitors: 1,000
Mar. 25-26JAA Brisbane Jewellery FairBrisbane Convention & Exhibition CentreSouth Bank, Brisbane, AustraliaTel: 61-2-9452-7575Fax: 61-2-9975-3707jewelleryfair@expertiseevents.com.auwww.australianjewelleryfair.com.au
Mar. 31-Apr. 2Jewelers International ShowcaseMiami Beach Convention Center Miami Beach, FLTel: 561-998-0205 Fax: 561-998-0209 [email protected]: 400
May 31-Jun.4Swiss Watch – By Appointment OnlyFour Seasons/Mandalay Bay/ The Hotel Las Vegas, NV Tel: 203-840-4800Fax: 203-840-5805 [email protected]
May 31-Jun.4 AGTA GemFair at the JCK Las Vegas ShowThe Mandalay Bay Hotel & Convention CenterLas Vegas, NVTel: [email protected]: 20,000Exhibitors: 220
JUNEJun. 1-3NICHE: The ShowPlanet Hollywood Resort & CasinoLas Vegas, NVTel: [email protected]
Jun. 1-4JCK Las VegasMandalay Bay Hotel & Convention CenterLas Vegas, NV Tel: [email protected]: 2,500
Jun. 21-24Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – June EditionHong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreHong Kong Tel: 852-2516-2158/852-2585-6179Fax: 852-3749-7344/[email protected]/[email protected]
Jun. 21-24June Hong Kong Jewellery& Gem FarHong Kong Convention And Exhibition Centre Hong Kong Tel: 852-2516-1677Fax: [email protected]
Jun. 22-24Hyderabad Jewellery, Pearl and Gem FairHitex Exhibition CentreHyderbad, India Tel: 91-022-6612-2600Fax 91-022-6612-2626/[email protected]
JULYJul. 1-3Eclat de Mode – BijourhcaParis – Porte de Versailles Pavillion 5 Paris, FranceTel: 33-01-47-56-21-36 Fax: 33-01-47-56-24-21 [email protected] Attendees: 13,000Exhibitors: 400
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Toronto designer, Anita Agrawal, has been in the jewellery industry for over the past twenty years and recently launched her well received jewellery line just last year. Anita, designs with the goal of making wearable fine gold, silver and gemstone jewellery that is affordable and can be transitioned from day to evening wear. All Jewels by Anita products are available at fine jewellery stores across North America. All products are handmade in Canada and are customizable.
For more information and a price list, contact Anita at [email protected]
Elegant and contemporary -handmade luxury that you can afford.
www.bbjw.com 1-800-661-487121 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CanadaT: 416-214-2582 F: 416-214-4626
Best Bargains
CJ_ad.indd 1 12/15/11 12:34:08 PM
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tradeshowcalendar
Jul. 20-23New York Antique Jewellery & Watch Show Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NYTel: 239-732-6642Fax: 239-352-6005showinfo@usantiqueshows.comwww.usantiqueshows.comExhibitors: 100
Jul. 23-24 International Watch & Jewellery GuildMarriott , NY Brooklyn Bridge Brooklyn, NYTel: 713-783-8188Fax: [email protected]
Jul. 30 – Aug.1 Luxury PrivéThe Pierre Hotel New York, NY Tel: 203-840-5521/973-263-4610Fax: 203-840-9521/[email protected]; [email protected]
AUGUSTAug. 1-4Feninjer - Brazilian Gems & Jewellery ShowTransamérica Expo CenterSão Paulo, Brazil Tel: 55-61-3326-3926Fax: [email protected]
Aug. 11-13Atlanta Jewelry ShowCobb Galleria CentreAtlanta, GATel: 800-241-0399Fax: 404-634-4663info@atlantajewelryshow.comwww.atlantajewelryshow.comExhibitors: 500
Aug. 12-14JCK TorontoMetro Toronto Convention Centre South HallToronto, ONTel: 416-756-0303/ [email protected]
Aug. 12-14Mode Accessories ShowDoubletree by Hilton
Toronto Airport HotelToronto, ONTel: 416-510-0114Fax: 416-510-0165twoplusone@mode-accessories.comwww.mode-accessories.com
Aug. 17-19Western Canadian Jewellery ExpoShaw Conference CentreEdmonton, ABTel: 780-467-9549Fax: [email protected]
Aug. 23-27India International Jewellery Show 2012Bombay Convention & Exhibition CentreMumbai, IndiaTel: 91-22-26524791Fax: [email protected]
Aug. 26-28Expo PrestigeMontreal Convention CentreMontreal, QCTel: 514-485-3333Fax: [email protected]
Aug. 28-30Japan Jewellery FairTokyo Big Sight Exhibition CenterTokyo, JapanTel: 81-3-5296-1020Fax: 81-3-5296-1018info@japanjewelleryfair.comwww.japanjewelleryfair.com
SEPTEMBERSept. 2-4JAA International Jewellery FairSydney Exhibition Centre Darling Harbour Sydney, AustraliaTel: 61-2-9452-7575Fax: 61-2-9975-3707jewelleryfair@expertiseevents.com.auwww.jewelleryfair.com.au
Sept. 2-5Autumn Fair International 2012The NEC Birmingham, UKTel: 44-0-20-7728-5424Fax: 44-0-20-7728-4242
Sept. 19-23September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem FairAsiaWorld-ExpoHong KongTel: 852-2516-1677Fax: [email protected]
Sept. 26-29September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem FairHong Kong Convention & Exhibition CentreHong KongTel: 852-2516-1677Fax: [email protected] and www.asiafja.com
DECEMBERDec. 14-16Baton Rouge Jewelry & General Merchandise ShowBaton Rouge River CenterBaton Rouge, LATel: 630-241-9865Fax: [email protected]
070-073.CJ_EID.indd 84 12/15/11 4:38:10 PM
For details, write #134 on Free Info Page, page 88.
CJ_ad.indd 1 12/15/11 12:34:51 PM
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
86 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m
703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6416.368.2690 [email protected]
catalogue available upon request
MCD PEARL IMPORTSa selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery
MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1
w w w . b a m i y a n s i l v e r . c a
55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898
Ready to ship finished jewelleryfor the holiday season.
In stock tennis bracelet mounts
and much more!!!and much more!!!
More then just a Casting House !!!
CJ_ad.indd 1 12/15/11 12:36:23 PM
CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
88
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
80 CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
Great Retailers Need Great Charms
™
Thousands of charms in silver and gold.Visit: RembrandtCharms.com/referrals
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
Since 1895
For over 100 years, Hagertyhas carried on a traditionof excellence.
The Jewellers Choice
Today, Hagerty is a worldleader in the care of preciousmetals and the popular choiceamong Canadian Jewellers.
Hagerty Distributors
H&W Perrin416-422-4600
Burney Giftware416-736-9990
Prestige Pak Inc.514-387-8888
Reliable Watch / Jean Michel514-866-1095
Habsons Jewellery Supply604-708-9700
www.hagertycanada.ca
MBDB50001CT - 18KVS2-S11
$560Machine
Set
MCDB50201.30CT - 18K
VS2-S11$675
MachineSet
MCDB50803CT - 14KVS2-S11
$1350
MBDB50151.40CT - 18K
VS2-S11$750LCDB5025
1CT - 18KVS2-S11
$515 LCDB50501.50CT - 14K
VS2-S11$735
Fits Sub& GMT
18KY - $325SS - $100
Inserts$25
LBDB50151CT - 18KVS2-S11
$550
LCDB50702CT - 14KVS2-S11
$935LDBD5005.70CT - 18K
VS2-S11$415
Your Headquarters For All Rolex Aftermarket Accessories
We Stock ManyDifferent Styles And Sizes Of Aftermarket Watchbands, Including SS, Two Tone, 14K And 18k All Gold Watchbands.
To
p QualiTy • l
ow
esT price • o
vernighT D
elivery
888.699.8947F.S. ENTERPRISEwww.fsenterprise.com
RLPD515 18K 1.85ct $2700
RMPD500 18KY $2850
RMJ1010 SS $100
RLJ2012 18K/SS $400 Two Tone
RLO3025 18K/SS $425 Two Tone
RMJ1002 18K/SS
$575 Two Tone
RMO4055R
18K/SS
Rose Gold
$600
We Also Stock Date, Mid-size, And No Date Diamond Bezels.
F.S. Enterprise is Not Affiliated with Rolex Watch, U.S.A., Inc. Rolex is a Registered Trademark of Rolex, U.S.A., Inc.
Price based on $1000-$1100 Gold
HOTSELLER
HOTSELLER
1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PMJohn’s
WHOLESALE JEWELRY LTD
Bello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoE x c l u s i v e l y a t
l e a t h e r & s t e r l i n g
f o r m e n a n d w o m e n
1-877-80-JOHNSwww.johnswholesale.ca
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showcaseFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 CJ 89
A D V E R T I S I N G
showcaseFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
Package 883: Beautiful 14kt. Gold “Jewels by Anita” Earrings, available in a range of gemstones & styles.
Starting at $135-300/pr.(As show here 2 pairs $400)
Package 885: 14kt. gold Sapphire & Tanzanite Earrings, Pendant & Bracelet a.Yellow & white Sapphire (4 cts) Earrings, b. Matching Pendant (2.5cts), c.Tanzanite and white sapphire earrings (3cts) d. Matching Pendant (1.5cts) Pendant
Any Earring $200/pr. Any Pendant $100/pc.
Matching Bracelets available: $150/ea.)
a. c.
All 4 pairs $400(Your choice of any Earrings $120/pr.)
Package 893: 14kt. Gold gemstone briolette earrings: a. Green amethyst and tourmaline (4mm), b. Amethyst earrings, c. Black spinel and garnet (5mm), d. Quartz and Citrine (4mm).
a. b. c.
d.
For more Products visit our website atwww.bbjw.com • [email protected] • 1-800-661-4871
YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED! Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S.
Looking for Affordability and Elegance? Why not try the new “Jewels by Anita” collection from Best Bargains? Products from this new mid-range line have been
featured in Jewellery Business and Canadian Jeweller magazines.
Best Bargains
21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADATel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626
SHOW DATE BOOTH VENUE1. New York Jan 22-24/12 TBA Jacob Javits Convention Center2. Toronto Jan 29-31/12 #2309 Mode Show, Doubletree by Hilton, Dixie Rd.3. Tucson Jan 31-Feb5/12 #309 Tucson Convention Center4. Bangkok Feb 09-13/12 #E20 Impact Challenger Bangkok, Thailand
90 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
* Box of 100pcs (S.P.) * Min. order 150$ (mix) * Ship. & txs not incl. * Until Dec. 31st 2011
showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
92 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M
from as low asComplete System $125/month
[email protected] us how ACE Webstore can get you onlineCall for your live online Demo
Track commissions, special orders & layawaysIntegrate with Accounting software Built in credit/ debit processingPrint repair bags & Labels for jewelleryCreate your own gift cards
A D V E R T I S I N G
marketplace For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
STEWART’S HOROLOGYREPAIR & RESTORATION
• QUALITY service & attention to detail
• Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses
j o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sw h o l e s a l ew h o l e s a l ew h o l e s a l ej e w e l r y l t dj e w e l r y l t dj e w e l r y l t d
For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
93 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 CJ
A D V E R T I S I N G
marketplace For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6
A D V E R T I S I N G
marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM
S e p t e m b e r / O c t O b e r 2 0 1 1 – b u y e r S ’ G u i d e | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m166
authentic basic art
a.b.art watches are distributed in Canada by 10:10 Watches, for more information call 416-419-6039 or visit:
160_167 CJ_Showcase_Market.indd 166 8/24/11 10:58:56 AM
Chipped, burnt or broken? You know they’re hidden somewhere. . . in your safe or at the back of your drawer.
Our team of master diamond cutters and polishers can recut, re-polish and repair all your chipped, burnt and broken diamonds - not all damage is beyond repair.
We aim for AGS Ideal® Cut (the “Triple Zero”) wherever the diamonds allow. In addition to advanced planning and precision design, light performance on each diamond is assessed using AGS Performance Grading Software®.
Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology to provide you with the fastest and most accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.
Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE.Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.http://www.xau.ca
CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM
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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM
marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
94 CJ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J a n u a R y 2 0 1 2 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m94
Refining - Assaying - Trading
Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371
Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"
Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap
Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology to provide you with the fastest and most accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.
Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE.Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.http://www.xau.ca
marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
marketplace For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
95 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • J A N U A R Y 2 0 1 2 CJ
A D V E R T I S I N G
marketplace For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].
95
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
®
ArmandorEnterprises Inc.New Tel: 416.642.0280New Fax: 416.642.0281New Email: [email protected] Website: www.akbgold.comNew Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5
New Locationin the heart of
Downtown Toronto!Now O�ering
Casting Services
marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
A D V E R T I S I N G
from as low asComplete System $125/month
[email protected] us how ACE Webstore can get you onlineCall for your live online Demo
Track commissions, special orders & layawaysIntegrate with Accounting software Built in credit/ debit processingPrint repair bags & Labels for jewelleryCreate your own gift cards
S e p t e m b e r / O c t O b e r 2 0 1 1 – b u y e r S ’ G u i d e | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m164
INYOURNAME
DESIGNTO YOUROWNWISHESALLPRINTINGSTEPSINCLUDED
1 - 8 0 0 6 6 1 - 4 4 1 0
s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m
C A N A D AC A N A D A
F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9
N OL O W E S T P R I C E S
J E W E L L E R Y R E P A I RE N V E L O P E
I N
C A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D A
P R I C E SP R I C E SL O W E S TL O W E S T
C A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D AC A N A D A1
Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM
160_167 CJ_Showcase_Market.indd 164 8/24/11 10:58:30 AM
CAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersSOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARE MACHINESMACHINESMACHINES TRAININGTRAININGTRAINING SUPPORTSUPPORTSUPPORT
marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]
CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM
authentic basic art
a.b.art watches are distributed in Canada by 10:10 Watches, for more information call 416-419-6039 or visit:
Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million
Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________
Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________
Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13