Camino slide show part 3 leon to santiago

As we walked into leon we encountered this antibiotics protest in front of the city hall.

Leon was our favorite big city and the cathedral here was truly luminous.

It included so many windows that the architecture was unstable and it almost collapsed in ruins

This is a view of the cathedral from our hotel. We took a break and rewarded ourselves in Leon. The hotel was wonderful and included a great spa with a therapy pool, sauna, hot tubs and other wonders!

After a wonderful night we left Leon. This is the Monestario San martin where the Parador hotel is located. It was the site of the wonderful hotel stay in the movie, the Way. We were tempted, but decided to save the Parador for Santiago as our final reward!

Leaving Leon, we wonce again followed the Roman road across the flat center of Spain. But the mountains, barely visible on the far horizon were beconing us!

We stayed in Mazarife at one of our favorite albergues. This picture was taken of sheep being herded down the main street of town just in front of the albergue . Our pilgrim menu at eh albergue that night was off the charts – pumpin soup, fabulous salad, vegetarian paella and crepes! Most of all, nothing was fried!

Another early morning leaving Mazarife – we were able to watch

… the moon set

Ancient steps to the bell tower of a village church.

This long bridge over the flood plain into Hopital de Obirgo was the scene of a famous jousting contest in the middle ages.

Waymarkings like this one, constructed from abandoned pilgrim wear, were common.

Finally – the mountains are getting closer and the way is rising and falling once again. We were very glad for these hills.

This is one of Liz’s most artistic shots of trees ready to leaf out with the red dirt of the tierra de campos in the background.

We stopped for fruit, tea and coffee at this makeshift stand where everything was free! Its been here for some time and was marked in our guide. We were so happy for the stop as this was about 2/3 through our longest day of walking.

After 32k of walking we ended our longest day in the medieval city of Astorga. Here you can see an excavated tile floor from a roman villa almost completely in tact and in situ.

This museum was designed by one of Spain’s most well known modern architects -- Gaudi

Astorga was the site of a medieval cathedral.

This ornate clock marked the town hall.

Our albergue was housed in the tall building. It was one of the nicest we stayed in.

Our walk on April 27 took us to Rabanal, site of the Confraternity of St. James albergue, Refugio Guacelmo. On the way into town we cam across this dad and two small kids going out to the fields to fly their falcon!

We arrived in Rabanal at lunch and sat down to eat in the sun. By the time we were done it was snowing! Our warm days were at an end for a while!

We met pilgrims from 30 countries. This is Liz outside our albergue with Chenin, from Aruba

This picture lookes back at the church in Rabanal as we leave – we lit a candle for Christian at this wonderful church where we attended compline with many friends

The walk out of Raban took us to the highest point on the Camino. It promised to be a very emotional day. On the way, we passed this ruin of an ancient pilgrim hostal highlighted by the dusting of snow that had fallen the previous afternoon.

Once again, tom is hurrying ahead to the bathroom in Foncebadon

About the only thing in the town of Foncebadon are ruins reminding passersby of its medieval glory days, an albergue and a couple of bars!

This was our first sight of Cruz de Fero the emotional highest point on the Camino.

Tom placed 5 garnets at the base of this iconic cross – one for each of his parents, for me and for each of our kids.

I placed a piece of polished palouse basalt given to me for a birthday present by our two children when they were in elementary school.

I can safely say that this was the most emotional time of our journey. We were very conscious of all those who had walked before us, including our daughter Carolyn, and of all those who would add bits of themselves after us.

The panoramic view from Cruz de Fero was spectacular

One of the iconic stops on the way down from Cruz de Fero is this very “hippyesque” albergue. They serve hot coffee and treats even though the location does not have electricity or running water!

The walk down was brutal – Tom says it was his hardedst day – it was second for me after the clim up to Ibaneta pass on Day one.

The wild flowers and scenery helped , though.

We were thrilled to find all the usual suspects at the bottom and enjoyed a wonderful meal together at Molinaseca.

On April 29, day 27, we walked toward Ponferrada, the site of an iconic Templar Castle. But we were pretty wrecked from the emotional and strenuous day before. This house was in a small town before Ponferrada

Typical of the spanish, this home, inbetween modern dwelling had collapsed and returned to the wild.

We walked by the Templar castle, too tired to stop!

Spring and the warmer western temps had brought out wisteria. Beautiful! I am going to try to grow this on the Palouse!

After a night in a small town, Cacabelos, we headed into another Spanish wine region – El Bierzo.

This church in Villa Franca, was often the end of the line for medieval pilgrims who could not make it to Santiago. If they could get here, they could receive a blessing at the door where Liz is standing.

We walked up an alternative grade this day thinking it was the main route. It led us to a beautiful, but deserted and steep trail toward O’Cebriero.

Villa Franca is in the valley!

Wildflowers were all around us

Our walked descended to the valley through a Walnut orchard.

On May 1, we began the walk toward O’Cebreiro, Carolyn’s favorite spot on the Camino.

We knew we were getting close to Santiago as we increasingly encounter ill equipped pilgrims! This girl was having trouble keeping up with her walking partner. We didn’t think it boded well for either of them!

The walk started in a colorful valley

And then climbed through a wooded path

Just before O’Cebriero, we crossed into our last Spanish province -- Galicia

The hillsides were covered with heather.

We attended mass in this church and

Lit a candle for Carolyn.

After mass we adjourned to a local bar for one of the most wonderful evenings of the trip. Here we are with many friends.

Somewhere around Rabanal, Jacob and other bought a guitar and were taking turns carrying it. We put it to great use in O’Cebriero. Here is our German friend Leo serenading us.

One of the Spanish local gott into the mood and borrowed the guitar to sing to Kirsten, a pilgrim friend from Texas

One of the highlighs of the evening was this love song sung by Stella to her fiance Jacob. They were married on may 18th, two days after returning home from their second pilgrimage!

Here marina, one of our Italian friends who had gotten behind us at Leon because of an injury, walked in unexpectedly. Fully recovered, she caught up with us and joined the evening of comraderie!

We left the next morning in the fog with Guy, one of our favorite pilgrim friends. We met him in Astorga. He had walked from St. jean, starting on 3/16.

It was too dark to see the colorful decoration in the typical Galician church without the flash on our camera

As we descended from O’Cebreiro, the sun began to break through the fog with spectacular results.

We were so happy to be back to hilly and varied landscapes!

Cows were EVERYWHERE in Galicia. This little dog clearly needed to learn that size matters!

At O’Cebreiro, Krisz, from Hungary, let us know that the next day was his birthday. At jacob’s urging, we all planned to meet and cook a celebratory dinner. Here we are at the albergue with Jacob serenading Krisz.

Tom and I once again walked out in the rising sun the next morning.

4k from the Albergue, I went to take a picture of this little chapel and discovered I had left my camera, with its full memory card or unsaved pictures, behind! We returned to triacastela in a panic and were told by Krisz that another friend had the camera and was brining it to me, but went a different way (*believing it was where we were headed.

Relieved, we walked on through the beautiful Galician countryside.

We were amused by the 50k/hour (that’s about 30MPH) sign on this dirt track!

Did I say that Galician cows were everywhere!

After another cold night we started in the fog, past

Frost covered grass, and

Cloud islands,

To the 100k marker. Tom is amazed, I’m crying. We couldn’t believe we made it this far!

These unique grain cribs were everywhere in Galicia

The architecture continued to change with these small churches surrounded by burial crypts becoming increasingly common.

Making our way through mud and cow s#!%!

Reunited with my camera at last – Thanks to Krisz from Hungary and Paul from Australia

The guitar continued to make its own journey to Santiago, this time on Sam’s back (from the UK)

Spanish construction was often haphazard and unpredictable. Here an unhewn tree limb serves as the main beam of a barn.

Its holding up a crazy quilt of beams inside

This pic is for Tom’s Mom – I tried to bring the pine cone home, but Tom, spoil sport, wouldn’t let me for fear of spreading Spanish tree diseases to the US. Mom, the picture will have to do!

A new kind of forest has taken over – eucalyptus trees!

Our mid-morning café con leche stop this day was in makeshift café that catered specially to pilgrims And typical of many of our stops, we were quickly joined by friends….

Leo & Jorg

Merja & Rikka

Micheli & Jacob

Jacob & Stella

Galician treats – pulpo at a road side stand. We both loved it!

Palm trees now shade the ancient santiago cross

Cows, people and cars – typical Galicia

Unbeknownst to us we were walking into Santiago the afternoon before Ascension. The holiday brough out many “turismo” pilgrims. Here, two, amazingly, exit a taxicab that has pulled onto The Way.

The beautiful wisteria continued through Galicia

This memorial to an Irish pilgrim, younger than me, broke my heart! I hope she was at peace!

Turismo pilgrim equipment and clothing at our albergue – the suitcases and lacy underwear was a stark contrast to what we had been seeing.

Dinner with friends

And with pulpo!

This was our last day of walking. We started passing the Santiago airport – notice the crosses in the chain link fence.

This woman was out in the rain working her garden patch.

The first sign telling us we were in Santiago!

Entering the ancient gate into the center of Santiago we were serenaded wby a Galician bagpipe player!

The Cathedral at last!

After getting our compostela and checking into our albergue, we were able to attend mass and see the famous botafumiero!

The next day, while we were meetin friends for the noon Pilgrim mass, we found Guy again. He had gotten behind us for a couple of days. We were so emotional at meeting again!

At the pilgrim mass worshipping, celebrating and thanking God all together!

Tom and me as we leave Santiago for our trip to Finnestarre on May 9.

Beautiful panarama of the Finnestarre coastline.

The lighthouse at the tip of Cape Finnestarre

The pilgrim burning pit. We coupldn’t bring ourselves to burn anything we had carried – but this pilgrim followed tradition and burned hi shoes.

We sat and reflected and watched the sun se over the Atlantic Ocean for 5 hours.

And we were overjoyed to be joined by Caroline – one of the pilgrims we met on our very first day of walking. She was from australia and was our alpha and Omega.

As the sun set on our pilgrimage, we both reflected on our luck, our wonderful family, our love for each other and our place in the world.