DRAFT LINE SHEETS
DRAFT LINE SHEETSfor
New Licensing and retailing project for independent fashion
designers and High -End RtW brands
We AreLisitalia SpA is an Italian group operating in the fashion
industry, with a significant track record of successful
collaborations for the development of business strategies finalized
to consolidate the brand in new markets, with new products.
Lisitalia was created by Augusto Rosini and it has thirty years
experience in high fashion and casual wear. Through its
subsidiaries Lisitalia developed, and in some case created, fashion
brand such as: Diesel, Verte Valle, Fiorucci, Replay, Nasa,
Playboy.
Introduction
It is in this capacity We made some thoughts and projects on
this and more in general on the nowadays situation of Fashion
Industry. In our opinion, this kind of field can be today represent
like a rich cake of ingredients always new and different, combined
with innovation and creativity with the aim of making the same
always different and attractive to everyone for the many or for the
few. The more ingredients are chosen from the genuine originality
and freshness, the more appreciated the result will be.
Therefore, We have noticed, worldwide, a great explosive
creativity especially among the independent designers, which they
have not the necessary financial, producing, logistic and
distributing forces to spread their creations and their new visions
in the Fashion Industry, even if they try to impose their views and
trends, participating to the most important fashion weeks in Milan,
Paris, London and New York. In fact, the big French /Italian luxury
& fashion groups have monopolized the past market and put a
barrier to the access, but at the same time, buyers above all from
the new rising markets (Far East, South America and Africa) are
looking continuously to new concepts and fresh brands to introduce
to their customers.
The currently retailing situation
Every professional luxury expert and some of the established
Maisons (see for example Dolce e Gabbana in many of their recent
interviews) has declared the end of the typical stores in the
meaning of the ones, where the customer is able to find only the
garments or only the shoes, or the accessories of one brand,
because the taste of the private purchaser, even in China,(Kingdom
of the Malls with single small or big monobrand shops) has changed
in the last 5 years. The final client, in fact, is now looking for
something new and definitively wants to be completely involved not
just in the products, but in mood/world expressed by the brand and
in the inspirational themes of the collections. Otherwise, if the
customer would buy only that garments or that accessory, she/he
would purchase directly by an e-commerce platform, without any kind
of sensorial implications.
Due to these considerations, we are witnessing the change of the
store in the modern concept store, where the final customer is
involved completely in the brands world, where the consumer can
find at the same time the identity of each brand consistently close
to each other.
What in our opinion is still missing is a new model of concept
flagship store, where there are not just one style or one theme
dedicated to that brand, but under a specific choice of labels, and
with the dedicated parts/corners of the shop the final customers
will be able to find the right product she/he was looking for. This
conception is completely new, from the normal multibrand shop,
because in the same space the final purchaser will be able to find
many different concept dedicated areas, where he/she will be
involved and surrounded by the moods and the key-lines of different
designers.
Licensing project, with retail multi label concept stores of the
licensed brands
At this point, we have, as said before, on one hand a group of
really impressive fashion designers and brands, which are still
independent by the big luxury groups and ready to be distributed
deeper worldwide, and on another hand a specific demand of new
products and different approach.
Therefore, what We consider useful and correct, is to create a
licensing platform for 8 rising names of the international fashion
system, located in the most important word fashion capitals: Milan,
Paris , Shanghai , New York, and based on double composite
structures both of retailing concept multi label store (ground
floor with window displayers in the most important areas of the
above mentioned city) and of showroom space for the wholesale
activity.
The effective news brought by this project are in fact related
to the creation of equal spaces, starting in short time , in the
above mentioned cities, where the concept retailing stores guest
the 8 designers in dedicated and personalized spaces characterized
and designed by the same creative directors, and in the same
building on the lower or in the upper floor we establish the
wholesale /showroom department and the offices of the branch.
The reason why this licensing project needs of the above
mentioned retailing concept stores with the distribution spaces are
various. First what we are going to sell is not just the single
upcoming and rising designer but a new competitive idea of flagship
store, in which, under the same ensign , the final customer, when
he/she goes into, is sure to find not just a brand, but the 8
different trendiest worldwide famous high-end designers. Due to
this point, investing franchising retailers, which want to open
other structures in the world of the same type, have the
substantial safety to receive an adequate mass of product (at least
850 models per season) to guarantee the usual customers demand for
the store, calculated for a space of 350-400 sqm.
In fact, we have eight designers not as exactly 8 brands, even
if they are definitely very different each others, and they will be
represented and sold in their own ambiences, but as part of one
mothers ideal brand, in which instead of having different creative
assistants, we have different completely lines for the same costs..
In fact, when we will signed the licensing contracts, these should
be long not less than 12 years, but binding just for the licensor
part.In consideration of this point we have chosen the following
designers/brands which have the following common denominators:
1) Independency from any other licensing or property
agreements;
2) Worldwide market and knowledge presence;
3) Showing his/her collection since at least 2011 in the
official calendars of Milan, Paris, New York or London;
4) Strong stylistic and press appearance;
5) Cross-type product collections;
6) The chosen brands are all high-end labels of RTW or
contemporary types;
7) Every brand has an established minimum structure to create in
home their first sample garments and accessories collection
The chosen brands and designers are:
Gabriele Colangelo, Milan (www.gabrielecolangelo.com); GRINKO,
Milan, (www.sergeigrinko.com);
HOUSE OF HOLLAND, London (www.houseofholland.co.uk ); Jonathan
Sanders, London (http://www.jonathan-saunders.com) ; Martin Grant,
Paris (www.martingrantparis.com); OHNE TITEL, New York
(www.ohnetitel.com/); Roksanda Ilincic, London
(http://www.roksandailincic.com/);
Nicolas Ghesquire, Paris
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nicolas_Ghesqui%C3%A8re).
All the above mentioned brands and designers are definitely
considered by most of the professional operators in the fashion
industry, the next future names in the luxury World and all of them
have the above described characteristics. The only designer who has
not his own label is Nicolas Gesquire, because, he was till the
beginning of 2013 the main creative director of BALENCIAGA for more
than 15 years.
All of them have already expressed us the interest to the
present project, because, they all want to be produced in Italy,
with our worldwide known craftsman capabilities and touches and be
distributed on 3 wholesale basis in the 3 capitals of the Fashion
System, but still remain autonomous during the creation moment and
show theirs collection in the cities where they have established
their Maisons.House Of Holland
Henry HollandBA (Hons) (born 26 May 1983) is an English fashion
designer, businessman and blogger fromRamsbottom,Greater
Manchester. Holland gained attention with his bold, 1980s-inspired
T-shirts that displayed catchphrases such as, "I'll tell you who's
boss, Kate Moss" in the 2000s; Holland subsequently designed a full
collection and founded his own fashion house.[1]He is well known
for his work with modelAgyness Deyn.[2] He love dressing the all
days woman, he already has inside his collections different kind of
categories for example intimates and eye wear.
Sergei Grinko
Among the emerging designers seen on Milans catwalks, Russian
designerSergei Grinkois gradually making a name for himself thanks
to his opulent style rich in artistic references evoking his
homeland.
Sergei studied at theTechnological Fashion Collegeof Khabarovsk.
In 1996 his creative path started opening to a cosmopolitan vision
and to different realities and influences.
The prestigiousCentral Saint Martinsin London and the experience
at theAtelier Dimain Dubai, textile design and the history of
fashion, the sophisticated craftsmanship of the clothes and the
intricate complexity of the jewels, all blend together in the style
of the Russian designer.
Viktoria Modesta
Paloma Faith
Kimberly Wyatt
Gabriele Colangelo
Gabriele Colangelo was born in Milan on February 27, 1975. His
family holds a traditional atelier where furs gain exclusive facet.
He has grown up surrounded by selected items and the tradition of
excellence, learning the expression of grace and craftsmanship.
When he took part into a competition organized by the Italian
National Chamber of Fashion, Gabriele won a scholarship as Fashion
Stylist. He has run numerous and relevant experiences with Versace,
designing Versace Jeans for Women, and Roberto Cavalli on Just
Cavalli label. Following those cooperations he took the role of
Artistic Director for Amuleti J, part of the Mariella Burani
Fashion Group.
Early in 2008, he launched his own label: Gabriele Colangelo. He
staged a capsule collection to be recognized for timeless, elegance
and the capacity to review furs and embroidery concepts with
innovative thought.
The same year the designer won the international contest "Who is
on next?", organized by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia to launch new
promising talents in fashion.
Jonathan Sauders
Scottish Born print designer Jonathan Saunders graduated from
Glasgow school of art in 1999 with a BA in printed textiles,going
on to a graduate from central Saint Martin's in 2002 with an MA
with distinction in printed textiles, subsequently winning him the
Lancome color awards 2002. In sept 2006 he was awarded the fashion
enterprise award by the British fashion council and in then won the
Elle style awards Designer of the Year in 2007. In 2008 Saunders
showed his own collection for the first time in N.Y following 9
seasons showing on schedule in London. Saunders coordinates
designing his own label alongside his position as creative director
for Pollini. He presented his first collection for Pollini in Milan
in sept 2008. Recent collaborations included collections for Top
Shop and u.s brand target. One of the Saunders' trademarks has been
his use of traditional silk screening techniques , developing the
concept of engineering prints around pattern pieces. Whilst print
is still integral to his designs, more recently he has focused on
development of an architectural , clean form- as aesthetic that
fits comfortably with his move to show in N.Y-.
Ohne Titel
Ohne Titel is a New York based womenswear label designed by
Alexa Adams and Flora Gill.The designers met in 1999 while
attending Parsons School of Design where they bonded over shared
influences. After graduating, they designed for established labels.
Alexa spent several years at Helmut Lang and in 2005, the two
worked together for Karl Lagerfeld.
Ohne Titel pairs architectural shapes and soft draping with an
eye for intricate detail combining sleek, tailored and feminine
silhouettes with strong colors and an athletic undertone. A key
interest of the designers is the use of technology and technique to
create personalized fabrics, unique volumes and surfaces to the
designs. Ohne Titel is intelligent design for a confident, modern
woman.
In 2009 Ohne Titel received the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation
Award for womenswear. Ohne Titel was a finalist in the 2009 and
2011 CFDA /VogueFashion Fund Awards and was nominated for the 2009
Swiss Textiles Award. Alexa and Flora are both CFDA members.
Nicolas GhesquireAfter completing his studies, Nicolas worked
from 19901992 as an assistant to designerJean-Paul Gaultier. He
then worked at Ples, designing their knit wear line followed by a
series of inauspicious assignments with different companies
including the Italian house of Callaghan.
Through his contacts with Marie-Amlie Sauve and Nathalie Marrec,
of Balenciaga, Ghesquire eventually landed a job doing the
licensing for Balenciaga and designing for the Asian market. It was
from there that he was plucked to be the new designer for the
house, which had limited success since the 1970s (the label's
founder,Cristbal Balenciaga, died in 1972). Ghesquire held, as he
then described it, what many would call the worst position in
fashion: designing suits and funeral clothes under a Balenciaga
licence for Japan
In 1997, at the young age of 25, Ghesquire was the surprise
choice to head the Paris fashion houseBalenciaga. Promoted to
creative director of Balenciaga after his Belgian
predecessorJosephus Thimisterwas fired following a highly
unsuccessful show. At that time, Balenciaga was owned byGroupe
Jacques Bogartand its heads realized his talent when he designed a
small collection for one of their Japanese licences. He is known
for his sense of "silhouette," pairing highwaisted skinny pants
with a voluminous "blouson," or a tightly cut wool jumpsuit with
billowing sleeves.
In October 2000, Ghesquire was namedavant-gardedesigner of the
year at the VHI/Vogue Fashion Awards and a year later, he was named
Womenswear Designer of the Year by theCFDA. Most recently he was
featured inTIME's 100 Most Influential People. He was described as
"fashion's most sought-after and influential figure" by
AmericanVogue.
Jennifer Connelly
Sienna Mille
Kristen Stewart
Roksanda Ilincic
She was born in Belgrade where she originally studied
architecture before moving to London and graduating from the
Central St. Martins MA in 2000. Since she began her own label in
2002 she has attracted a loyal customer base. Roksanda Ilincic
joins the LFW schedule for the first time as a New Generation
winner. Previously she has shown as part of Fashion East and in
2004 held a presentation in Paris. By September 2005 she had earned
a place on the official London Fashion Week schedule, and her first
show was S/S 2006, held at Bibendum restaurant. 'It had only 13
dresses and they were presented in an intimate salon-style show.
Roksanda now sells in 36 countries worldwide, collaborates with
Whistles on a diffusion range, and is working on a new range of
bags, as well as the swimwear line. Her collections play with
volume and proportion, vibrant colour and juxtaposition of fabrics.
Her silhouettes often have a raw-edged architectural sensibility;
her colours are strong Slavic mixes and she frequently blends
everyday materials, such as cord, with the flamboyant silk
organzas, taffetas and satins of couture. She is strongly
influenced by 50s and 60s style for high-waisted pencil skirts,
Hitchcock dresses, slouch pants and the ceramic buttons and
jewellery specially designed for the current collection.
Gwyneth Paltrow
Martin Grant
Born in Melbourne - Australia, in 1966, Martin Grant launched
his first ready to wear line in 1982 in his Little Collins St
studio.
Soon recognized for his talent by the Australian fashion
industry, he scooped the Cointreau Young Designer Award in Sydney
in 1988.
In 1991 Martin Grant moved to England where he joined Koji
Tatsuno to learn bespoke tailoring.
A year later, in 1992, he decided to come to Paris where he set
up his own atelier in an old disused hospital in Montmartre. He
first produced small ready to wear collections of 20 selected
pieces, quickly sold in Australia, Japan, Great Britain and the
United States.
Martin has always been focused on his taste for bespoke
tailoring, the research in details, and simplicity of lines. The
result comes in timeless silhouettes, a mix of French charm and
elegance in an almost sculptural way. The strictly shaped cuts
always emphasize the curves of the body. The clothes are
functional, with a sharp, geometric and structured silhouette,
often military inspired, yet still completely feminine.
On the basis of his impeccable cuts, starting with luxurious
coats and jackets, Martin Grant has attracted major retailers
worldwide, including stores like Barneys or Neiman Marcus, or
boutiques like Takashimaya, or Penelope.
In September 2003 he was signed up by Barneys NY to design their
private label.
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