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CCooppyyrriigghhtt NNoottiiccee Copyright © 2013-2015 Hoof Geek Ltd

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First edition, 2013

2nd Edition, April 2015

Table of Contents Table of Contents

Cavallo 5 Cavallo 5

Old Mac G2’s 6 Old Mac G2’s 6

Boa 7 Boa 7

Sizing 7 Sizing 7

Pads For Laminitis 8 Pads For Laminitis 8

So you’ve got a horse, a hoof boot and a big chunk of foam that looks like it will never fit right? 10 So you’ve got a horse, a hoof boot and a big chunk of foam that looks like it willnever fit right? 10

Pads 14 Pads 14

Boots 14 Boots 14

Why Therapeutic Pads?.............................. ............. 4 Why Therapeutic Pads?............................................. 4

Hoof Boot Selection ................................ ................ 4 Hoof Boot Selection .................................................. 4

Which Pad?......................................... ................... 8Which Pad?.............................................................. 8

How long do they last? ....... .................................... 9 How long do they last? ............................................. 9

Fitting the Pads ................................... ................. 10 Fitting the Pads ...................................................... 10

Cutting the Pad .................................... ................ 11 Cutting the Pad ...................................................... 11

Squishing the Pad Down ............................. .......... 12 Squishing the Pad Down ......................................... 12

Tips For Pad Maintenance ........................... .......... 13 Tips For Pad Maintenance ....................................... 13

Where To Buy ....................................... ............... 14 Where To Buy ........................................................ 14

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Why Therapeutic Pads? Why Therapeutic Pads?If you’d like to know more about why I think therapeutic pads are a good idea, and what they can do for your horse’s hooves, and indeed the whole body, then check out my article hoofgeek.com/unsung-hero/

Here I’m going to cover some instructions and tips on how to choose and fit them, and how to select a hoof boot to use in conjunction with pads.

First up… 

Hoof Boot Selection Hoof Boot SelectionIt might not be a good thing for me to start by saying this, but it’s the world we live in unfortunately…

I’m sharing with you here knowledge based on the best of my experience. Horses all have different shaped feet, and there’s no guarantee that a hoof boot will fit your horse. Most horses will fit, but just like with humans, sometimes, even if a shoe is the right size, it might not fit properly, or it might rub.

Getting experienced advice can help reduce the chances of these problems, but sometimes you just have to try it to find out. I’m not looking at your horse right now, I’m looking at a computer screen Please use the information here as a guide for making your own decision, or if you’re really not sure enlist the services of an experienced boot fitter.

I find the best boots for using pads is the Cavallo range (the Simple or the Sport boot), the Old Mac G2, (the Old Mac Original fits them too – but it’s no longer made, should you have a pair already though, you’ll find them suitable) and the Boa boot.

The Easyboot ranges generally don’t fit these pads very well at all, as they are designed to be very close fitting to the hoof capsule. This makes them great for feet that aren’t likely to change much, but not great for feet you’re hoping to improve and strengthen with the use of pads. Improvement means change.

The Easyboot Trail will usually work with this type of pad.

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CCaavvaalllloo 

I think the Cavallo boots are the most versatile for rehabilitating hooves, they seem to cope well with widest range of hoof shapes, and don’t have any straps that might rub. If I’m allowed a favourite, then these would be them – except for when they’re not suitable, at which point something else will be my favourite. (Fickle aren’t I!)

They’re not particularly great for upright hooves. Hooves prone to long heels and tall heel bulbs (ie Iberian types) can be a problem, though I do know a number of Iberians that use Cavallos.

When I say Iberians type hooves, I mean the ones with tall heels. If they have a more normal heel height, you’ll be fine (and well done! )

All the Quarter Horses I’ve seen booted haven’t suited Cavallos at all. I’m sure there are some Quarter Horses out there happily using them, but I said I’d give you my experience, and I haven’t seen one yet. Don’t forget, I’m in the UK, they’re not quite so common here. We’ve plenty of New Forest ponies round these parts though!

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Old Mac G2’s Old Mac G2’s 

They fit a good range of hoof shapes. They have a strap that goes round the pastern, which gives added security, but also adds the risk of rubbing. With pastern wraps/gaiters this is rarely a problem.

I do find that owners who have arthritis in their fingers sometimes find the straps difficult to manage. No reflection on the boot, obviously, but worth considering, if you’re on a yard where there’s no-one to ask for help on a cold day. You’ll get the boot on just fine, you might not be able to get it off though.

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Boa Boa 

These come in really large sizes which is helpful. Don’t use them without the pastern wraps/gaiters. Be careful doing up the disc at the front. When you first start using them some people do the boot up as tightly as possible as they’re worried it might fall off.

If you over tighten the disc, it will rub the coronary band. Don’t let that put you off though; if you put any piece of tack on too tightly it will rub.

Sizing Sizing

Most of the time you’re going to want the boot of the right size as set by the measurements you’ve taken. Sometimes though, if your hoof measurements are right on the cusp of 2 sizes, it’s helpful to go for the larger size if you’re planning on using pads.

If you’re wondering about the Cavallo width sizing, the Simple boot is as wide as it is long, the Sport boot is 5mm narrower than it is long. They use only the length measurement to fit the boot as most of the time this is the measurement that matters.

You may also find the Hoof Geek Guide: Measuring for Hoof Boots Kindle book helpful, if you don’t already have it. It will provide you with some help in how to measure even wonky and weird hooves.

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Which Pad? Which Pad?Most horses and ponies over 13hh are going to be just fine with the normal 7lb EPS pads. On very rare occasions I've found a horse who doesn't seem to squash the pad down properly. I have no real explanation as to why gravity seems to fail :) On those occasions the pony pad has worked beautifully (but the 15.3hh stallion's ego was a little bruised!)

If you have a pony around the 13hh mark, it could go either way. If there's any sign of laminitis or the hooves are weak or collapsed, go for the 4lb pony pad. You can always get the 7lb pad the next time if you think that would have been better. If you go for the 7lb pad and it's wrong, you're not going to be able to use it, so try the 4lb pad first.

The 4lb EPS pad is good for horses and ponies having a laminitic episode and small ponies. The 4lb pad won't last for a long time for a horse, but for the comfort it gives, it's worth it. Finding ways to extend the life of the pad is for sound horses, not very sore ones :)

Pads For Laminitis Pads For Laminitis

If you're using the pads to assist with comfort during a laminitic episode, get some advice from someone with experience of these pads. They are amazing for laminitics, but every laminitic is different and you might need to pull some good old fashioned jiggery pokery to get the best option to suit your horse.

This is one of the major advantages of these pads – there's so many ways you can use them. I'm not going to detail all the ways here, simply because you really should get the advice of an experienced professional. Knowing what the pads CAN do isn't quite the same thing as knowing what you should do with them to help a serious condition.

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How long do they last? How long do they last?Under normal conditions pads last 2 to 3 months, with exceptional pad care, I've had clients make their pads last a year. It does come down to how much you use them.

I'd say normal conditions are a sound horse, wearing them for a couple of hours a few times a week. A toe first landing will wear the pads out faster – which is unsurprising as a toe first landing will wear the hoof, and the whole horses body out faster too!

If you're using pads to improve hoof structure, you can expect them to last 2-3 months.

If you're using pads for essential comfort of your horse, and they're wearing them 24 hours a day, this is ok, but they will wear out within a few days. Having a couple of pairs of pads and alternating them every 12hrs (you don't need to be exact) will help them last longer as they get a chance to puff back up.

Putting them somewhere warm when they're not being used so they puff back up a little will improve their life. I've had clients put them in the dish washer or a steamer (that's how they lasted 12 months) with great success, but it all depends how you feel about your kitchen appliances really :)

When you're using a pony pad on a laminitic horse, it's not going to last more than a few days, and maybe as little as 1 day, but in those cases, the pads have had such a massive effect on the comfort of the horse, no-one has cared how long they lasted.

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Fitting the Pads Fitting the PadsSo you’ve got a horse, a hoof boot and a big chunk of foam that looks like it will never fit right?

Trust me – it’s all going to work out! Occasionally if the heels are very tall it might

be a problem fitting it all in. Otherwise, we’re all set.

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Cutting the Pad Cutting the PadCheck the boot will fit on and do up without the pad. If it’s got a bit of room spare, then great, if it’s already tight and rubbing, this may be one of those rare occasions where it’s not going to work for you. You want to check length and width at the ground, and clearance around the coronary band and heel bulbs.

Take the boot off the horse, place it on top of the pad, and draw around the outside of the boot. It helps to line the back of the boot up with the edge of the pad. If the boot came with a pad insert, then cut the insert to the right size and use that as the template.

The density of the foam can make cutting a little tricky, so until you’re more used to cutting through the foam, I’d recommend cutting the pad a little bigger than you need it. (Same theory when trimming – easy to take a bit more off, really hard to put it back on if you’ve taken too much!)

Once you’ve got the pad roughly the right shape, but a bit too big, use a rasp to take off the excess so the pad fits. You can put it in and out of the boot as you go to check if it fits. If you get the pad stuck, putting a hoof pick underneath the back edge to pull it out usually helps.

Once you’ve got 1 pad done, you can use that as a template for the second pad (assuming your boots are a pair – some are sold individually)

It’s a little fiddly the first time you try this, fairly simple the second time and a doddle after that, so be patient :)

Once you have your pads in the boots, you need to shape them to the hooves. This isn’t nearly as technical as it sounds.

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Squishing the Pad Down Squishing the Pad DownPut your horses hoof into the boot and do it up as best you can. Make sure the hoof is completely on the pad, and it hasn’t slipped over the edge of the boot when you were putting the hoof down. You’ll find it easier to not use the pastern wraps/gaiters at this stage.

Repeat with the other hoof, or the other 3 if you’re doing all 4.

Let your horse stand on them for 15mins or so. Some horses squish these down quickly, others take a little longer. Walking them around can help, but only if you’re sure the boot isn’t going to slip. I know the boot doesn’t fit quite right at this point.

I have known one horse who had a problem squashing the pad down with weight. It worked for him to stand on the cut out pad without the boot to squash it down and then put the squashed pad into the boot.

Once the pad is squashed down, if you’re not using pastern wraps/gaiters then you just need to tighten the boot up as it will be loser now the pad is squashed and you’re all ready.

If you are using pastern wraps/gaiters, then take the boots off, put the pastern wraps/gaiters on/in (depending on style) put the boot back on and you’re ready to go.

N.B I do recommend using the wraps/gaiters in most cases.

For the Boa/Old Mac gaiters, the disc bit goes under the pad. The pad is actually really useful for holding the gaiter in place. You’ll want a hoof pick to get the pad out so you can put the gaiter in.

For Cavallo pastern wraps, they don’t need to go under the pad. However, I much prefer the Boa/Old Mac gaiter in the Cavallo boots too. I find it works really well and can be less fiddly.

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Tips for Pad Maintenance Tips for Pad MaintenanceThe pads will puff up when left in a warm place. Out in the sun is great (if there is any) on a radiator works well as long as it’s not going to make the place stink, so chose your radiator location wisely and if they do smell check the hoof for infection.

I had one client who put her pads in an old vegetable steamer to puff them up after every time she rode. She made 1 pair of pads last a year! (she rode 3-4 times a week) I’ve heard of people putting them in dishwashers and ovens too with great results.

The great results were for the pads, I can’t speak of the culinary brilliance emerging from these kitchens!!! Personally I’m pretty protective of my kitchen, I’d rather use more pads, though I like the idea of an old unused steamer if you have one handy, and I can speak for the culinary brilliance coming from that ladies kitchen :)

It’s more common for pads to last 2-3 months; it’s not unusual for them to last 4-6 months. It does of course depend how often you ride, how heavy your horse (and I suppose, technically, you) are, how heavily your horse lands their feet, if you have a heel first, toe first or lateral landing, if there’s any twisting movement to the foot on landing or breakover.

All sorts of things can affect pad wear and tear. It’s not an exact science. When they’re breaking up, squished beyond recognition or really stinky you’ll want to replace them. You might find you can deal with the really stinky problem with disinfectant, but generally, if it smells it’s full and bacteria and not a place you want to put your horses hoof.

If your horse lands toe first, then the pads will get squashed at the toe much more quickly. This isn’t because pads aren’t suitable for a toe first landing, it’s because a toe first landing causes significantly more concussion.

What this means is, for the sake of your horses feet, joints, muscles and bones, you really need the pads! The pads aren’t breaking down more quickly, their being used up more quickly! That means they’re doing the job… Also – look into the cause of a toe first landing if you haven’t already.

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Where to Buy Where to BuyPads Pads 

I buy all my boots and pads from Equine Podiatry Supplies

The 4lb Pads equinepodiatrysupplies.co.uk/Pads/EPS-4-lb-Pads

The 7lb Pads equinepodiatrysupplies.co.uk/Pads/EPS-7lb-Pads

If you’re in the US, obviously I haven’t ordered from here, but I have heard good things about Natural Farrier. naturalfarrier.com/theraputic%20pads.html

Boots Boots 

Equine Podiatry Supplies equinepodiatrysupplies.co.uk/Boots

The Hoof Boutique is really very helpful hoofbootique.co.uk

You’ll also find boots at The Saddlery Shop thesaddleryshop.co.uk

I’m sure a Google and/or eBay search will reveal other options, but you don’t need me to tell you that!

If you are in any other countries and have a recommendation of where to buy which could help your fellow countrymen please let me know and I’ll add it to the list

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